Heavy and serious out there.
Outer outer outer bars showing whitewater as the sun rose.
Maybe a jetski out near the potato patch beyond cron?
Silty, polluted water.
Over an inch of rain in some bay area towns last night.
Maybe a good Santa Cruz morning?
Caught one memorable ride recently.
Thick and powerful.
Pigdog upchuck drop.
Enjoy the narrel.
Carve off the bottom. Off the top.
Stand there in the concave sweet spot.
Good times Saturday morning. Big, peaky, glassy.
Nice to trade waves with Mark Massara.
And Lerm.. as always.
Lerm currently up at Tahoe. Fresh tracks most likely.
Anybody catch the new SanFranPsycho??
MORE CAR BREAKINS ON THE GREAT HIGHWAY:
(email from Jon)
On Friday afternoon, while surfing Noriega, my car was
broken into and my wallet was stolen. Apparently the
thieves watched where I stashed my keys, waited until
I paddled out, and then opened my car and took my
wallet. They did not notice my cell phone in the
center console near the front seat. Some other guy
parked opposite me on the Great Highway also had his
keys/wallet stolen and was waiting in his wetsuit for
a ride home at sundown.
I also heard of a similar break-in a couple of weeks
ago on the GH at Quintara, and a separate incident at
Pacheco. In each instance, the perpetrators used the
surfers' stash spot to gain access into their cars.
The incident at Quintara happened to a friend of mine.
If I had heeded his words of advice, I wouldn't be
writing this now.
So please hide your keys with utmost care or take them
surfing with you. When I hid my keys, several cars
were coming down the highway but I was too excited to
wait until they passed. I plan on wearing my key
around my neck from now on. Furthermore, if you see
some suspicious activity -- i.e. hoodlums or otherwise
"suss" characters searching people's pants for wallets
and then leaving the scene -- call attention to these
LBI photo by Jonathan Hoover
Occy photo by Sarge
Friend #1 caught a bunch.
Only one ride for me.
Good day for a bigger board.
Root Canal yesterday felt shitty.
"Wittgenstein's Poker" a good read.
Some hatred vented yesterday.
Entitlement and anger.
Good vibes to the haters.
May they find happiness.
What's the point of life?
Make others happy?
Is there a point? Are we just part of an ongoing, unfurling happening that contains no moral judgements? All just is. Things aren't good or bad or necessary or sublime? They just are?
Or are the fundemental questions left to each of us to divine in his or her own thoughts? If Jim thinks the meaning of life is to maximize his knowledge, is that valid?
Surfing is fun. We're lucky to do it.
Steve Reich painted this
I hope not.
Dismal-looking onshore slop this morning.
A few takers who spent 25 minutes paddling like madmen to get outside.
One of them eventually made it.
A few semi-attractive sections appeared from within the morass.
Once out there you could probably have a good time.
Topsy-turvy head-high junk.
Reminds me of a session on Monday.
Paddled out with a friend in seemingly shitty conditions.
Disorganized and raunchy. Thick, threatening closeout barrels on the inside. A rare few workable shoulders scattered about. In an unprecedented maneuver my friend announced, "this is a waste of my time, i'm out of here!" as soon as we paddled out! He hadn't even caught a ride. Granted, conditions were shitty, and even a bit dangerous, but.. there were some diamonds in the rough. I saw him take a little inside wave and then start walking up the beach. After that i just started getting into the session. Nobody around so no interpersonal distractions. Tons of hammering windswell thwackers came rolling in but only 1 in a 100 were rideable. I had a blast getting into "seek and destroy" mode where i would just feverishly hunt down the rideable corners. The object of the session shifted from the normal "what maneuvers can i perform on the wave," to "how many rides can i find from within these craptastic conditions?" It was super fun and i thought of myself as a hovering hawk looking for little field mice to prey on.
Many ways to derive enjoyment from surfing. Riding waves is just a part of it. I've always really enjoyed the act of catching waves. Seeing waves approach and positioning yourself accordingly. That whole dance with the natural process.
That pipeline contest was so fun to watch yesterday! I'm stoked that Pancho won it. That guy has heeps of style and seems very humble and mellow. Yeah Pancho!!
also Tom Curren announced that he's going to do the whole WQS tour this year in a bid to requalify for the WCT. He's 40 yrs old! Go the Curren!
The first WCT event (Snapper Rocks on the Gold Coast) begins March 1. My pic is Slates for 2005! Go Slates! It'll be ineresting to see how Wardo does.
and for anyone who watched the designer search reality show on Bravo last night.. I'm happy that Jay won!! I thought his designs were tight.
Ola charges charging chargeables
A small collection of artifact photos
The onshores kicked up last night.
Awoke in the wee hours and attempted to score this one inconsistent spot.
It's 5:50am and i'm looking at flatness where i'd hoped there'd be waves.
Drive back along the coast.
Not as big as expected.
Smelly at Pollutica.
bagel and donut at the Sharp Park Fog City.
Meaty, lurching grinders next to the pier.
Possible nuglets for the Mavs Charging Charger.
Not much happening throughout local beaches.
Top three favorites
Breyer's Mint Chocolate Chip
Lavanida Tacqueria chicken burrito
California weekend trips:
Up the Coast (vague is voque)
Snow in the 'ho
Things to do with the lady:
Stay at Rocky's Retreat in SC
Mentionable Surf spots:
Early saturday morning. sunny. glassy shoulder high. bong hits. 3 hour session.
Night before a vacation.
Enter the Dragon
Dazed and Confused
Rob Born snapped a few water shots
I posted these photos from jerseyjuice.com yesterday... but.. these waves look SOOO fun!! Inner-bar glassy barrels!
Redondo Beach (SurfMomster photos)
Not for the faint of heart or for those with a wimpy disposition (me!)
Rotund, beastly bombs detonating.
Watched a peak with Lewis and Lerm.
Overhead+ beautiful, high-performance walls of destruction.
Wave after wave.
Lewis was amping.
Lerm and i had misgivings.
Checked another spot and there was one guy way way way outside.
After 15 minutes of waiting for a wave out there the guy scratches into a double-overhead? (bigger?) A-frame and just barely narrowly gets over the ledge. He elevator-drops down and then straitens out as the wave crashes and erupts all around him. We think he's headed in after that but, sure enough, he takes another 10 minutes to get way way way outside again. Then just before Lerm and i leave with our tails between our legs this guy takes off on a mama bomb and carves this huge arc while cruising at 300mph. Crazy thick-thighed speed turn. Shredding. Way way out there. By himself. In thick, double-overhead surf. Killing it. On a shortboard. Drifting north. Into the unknown.
Neal Miyaki photos from pipe yesterday
Creek (Rob Gilley photos)
Amping after 22 hours of no surf.
Wipers squawk as the rain beats down.
Time the lights on Geary (from girlfriend's place) around the storied bend at the Cliff House.
Ocean surface a bit jumbled.
High tide dishevelment.
Some thick inside bombs.
Great Highway flooded.
Moody peaks at Sliz.
Heavy but approachable.
A little south in the wind so head south.
Brilliant sky-clearing over P-town.
Flat at Smoke-a-Jay. way inside dribblers.
Glassy... offshore groomed.
Linda Marginal offering some dirty closeouts.
Maybe a scant few shoulders.
Thick swath of muddy goop spread throughout the inside.
A few innoculated warriors making a go of it.
On the way back home, decide to check the pier.
Walked out to the end.
Thick, raunchy, chunkified, overhead groundswell mounds caused the pier to shake and rumble as each passed underneath.
Cool view of unmakeable barrels.
Great to sense the significance.
Wind energy translated and preserved.
Finally unleashed for our pleasure days or weeks later.
Divine lineup shot
ladrtrk55 shot of Curren
Trefz shot of Mulcoy
Gilley shot of Tim Curren
A few morsels.
Plenty of crunching closeouts.
Lewis took off on some closeout bombs.
Lerm slanked down the line on a few. bashed the lip on one.
Sunil no fear over the ledge into pits of despair.
Friend #1 on the prowl.
Blue booger finding tubes.
Kaiser Sose superman hell-drop on a Wedge like the one in Newport.
Sose nailed a nice suck-out speed-burner right in front of me.
Dolphins sprinting down the line. Close to us!
Dolphins leaping and flowing. beautiful.
Dolphins in tandem. Dolphins in perfect trim.
Bright orange/red tropical sky over the Marin Headylands.
NNE winds whipping like mad.
Lots of closeouts.
Foamy, stinky, skull-crushing brown barrels... not usually makeable.
Wipeouts a-plenty for yours truly. Ugly surfing.
Is the Ryan Masters who penned the "Ghost Tree" article in TSJ the same Ryan that rules it at Mavs? Dude can write as well as charge those charging chargeables. Good on him!
Stefan from the surfermag forum posted some cool pics of No Way Norway
Grom (warren bolster photos)
Ted Grambeau photo
Awoke at 8:10.
Figured it'd be money out there since i missed my session-window (leave for work at 8:30).
Skated down for a look.
Small but fun looking.
Outer-bar mush-peaks here and there.
1 guy out toward the middle.
If today was a sunny saturday morning in October it would be packed.
Signs posted: Too polluted to surf.
7108600 people in the Yay area.
Motor oil leaking. Cat litter spilling. Drano dumping.
Flash floods from yesterday swept grime and detritus into streams and gulleys.
Water flows to bay then flows to sea. then flows by me!! and you!
Plans forming to drive from Cabo to San Diego in May. 2 weeks. Anyone have thoughts? Are we crazy to drive the whole thing in 2 weeks? Should we just hole up somewhere in the middle of Baja and get a round-trip flight to/from Cabo... bail on all that driving? Or should we power all the way up, check out a bunch of spots, end it with a bang in Ensenada or TJ? surfff!
The new TSJ is out. Galapagos islands sound fun. Buzzy Trent surfing 30ft Makaha Bowl in the 40s, pre North Shore craziness. Lance goes back to Lance's Right after 20 years. He's 53 now but gets barrelled off his gourd. He discovered the wave in the 80s(?). Camped there in the village for a month or two and surfed it all day long by himself. Martin Daly eventually rocked up on the Indies Trader and was the second to surf the wave. Mentawais madness.
5 hour band practice last night. Thanks Marco for lending me your amp. A quick amp review for anyone curious:
Marco's '04 Fender Hot Rod Deluxe - 1 12" speaker. 40 watts. Tube amp. Fender's Hot Rod series serve as the working man's line of tube-amps. Affordable. Reliable. Nice basic tone. If offers two channels (clean and gain) but, as with many Fenders, the gain is basically useless. The clean, however, is shimmery and bright. With some distortion pedals in front (i use a Rat and an MXR) you can still bring the ruckus. My biggest critique was that, after an hour or two of playing, the tone started to get too muddy and full in the lower register of my guitar. I felt like i couldn't get a sharp, clear bight from my lowest three strings. I had this same problem with my old Line6 FlextoneII. I turned down the bass/mid controls and the reverb/presence but i still couldn't cut through the mud. Otherwise the amp performed well over a funk drummer in a 5-piece band (keys, bass, drums, guitar, rapper). I liked the watery/shimmery sound, especially when using a Chorus pedal (thanks dennis!) to play some surf tunes (Pipeline). All in all the amp performed fine, cut through the mix, maintained a relatively clean, distinguishable voice throughout. Very quiet idle. Thanks so much Marco!! i can drop it off to you any night this week.
sorry so wordy this morning. surrf!!
Foot of Sloat Blvd Station - Posted
Foot of Vicente Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Pacheco Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Lincoln Way Station - Posted
Foot Balboa Ave. Station - Posted
Follow the link below to see Earth 911's detailed map indicating
Drove down to Lindy
Murky San Pedro creek outflow
Chocolate-brown, viscous wedges.
Fuzzy, yellowish murk oozing through the lineup
My body soon covered in the yellowish effluence.
Foamy, chalky, putrid, smelly.
Eating through my wetsuit and stinging my face.
The yellow goo is all over me and i start to get concerned.
I look down at my hand it's being slowly devoured by the toxic sludge.
This beautiful wave peaks up out of nowhere and i start to paddle for it.
It's a full gnarly wedge that gulps-up on the newly created sandbar.
I'm itching and scratching and my skin is now pussing and bleeding but i stroke into the fecal funnel of this sloppy Linda Mar pit.
Over the ledge and immediately i'm slotted.
Whole turds slop up and around me as i travel through the vacuous vortex.
The turd tunnel.
Try to stay dry.
I get deeper in there. A long-ass lindy tube.
I start to notice a faint bioluminescence in the water surrounding me.
I flash a gaze to my body and realize it's me that's glowing.
The yellow ooze has taken me over and i'm now fluorescent with bio-chemical runoff.
I get spit out of the barrel and immediately paddle toward shore.
I'm in intense pain all over and my skin looks transparent and droopy.
I get to my car and look in the side-view mirror and almost pass-out as i see my skull exuding this bright green radiation through my now-melting skin. I tear-off my wetsuit and cry in horror as the skin over my entire body starts to rend and slide. Muscle and tissue bleed and quiver in the chilly/rainy air.
Eventually it all sloughs off and i'm now the radioactive Linda-Mar Skeletor surfer!!!! Beware!!!
If you're happily in love, or at least crushing really hard, happy smooch-fest day. If you've been recently stilted, or some bizniatch cheated on you, or you're happily single, know that Valentine's day is but a superficial, plastic, over-consumptive, Hallmark-invented non-holiday.
My main-squeeze and i enjoyed a relaxing weekend at Rocky's Retreat in the Seabright neighborhood of Santa Cruz. Thanks so much to the organic lot lizard for hooking us up super hella phat. Activities included Jacuzzi, sun-chilling, napping and cooking, Surfing inside Indicators with CJ and Joculation, CJ scoring a long belly ride and getting stoked, making pizzas for the J.O.C's 24th birthday, Hanging with the veritable harem of attractive, 20-something, femalian Jake-groupies at his house on the West Side, Surfing 11-mile sunday morning. Grey, Glassy and rainy. Seeing a whale breech and spit water from its blowhole. Taking the Monarch butterfly walk at Natural Bridges and only seeing one butterfly (thanksgiving is supposed to be the most crowded time). Burritos at 3 Amigos in HMB. NYT upon returning home.
This morning saw a few waves lap up onto local shores. Looked weak and piddly from the beach, barely doable. But... once in the water little glassy wedges and peelers would present themselves. One ride was particularly memorable. I caught the second half of an almost-double-up and then ended up riding in the trough between the two waves. I could basically reach out and drag each of my hands along waves on either side of me. Weird!!
on a sad note. It seems that a novice surfer passed away while surfing ocean beach this weekend.
JB tells the tale:
I thought that I should share this with you all, as I was out on saturday morning with a buddy. He had been caught on the inside and decided to go in, so I stayed out a little bit longer and came in about 15 minutes later. At that point he was about 50 yards north of me with another surfer looking out into the water with some other girl. I eventually get up to my buddy and he tells me that they are looking for this guy's friend and her boyfriend who had been out body surfing but never made it back to shore. The girl eventually sees something black floating in the water no more than 25 yards out. The 3 of us jumped in and paddled to Nasu who hadn't been seen for the last 10 minutes. When we got to him, he was floating on his stomach with his head completly submereged under water. Once the 3 of us turned Nasu on his back, he started foaming from the mouth and his friend started blowing air into it. We put the body onto his friends board and the 3 of us started paddling in. His friend kept blowing air into his mouth but it wasn't helping at all. We eventually dragged him to shore and his friend and another women continued performing cpr and trying to clear his lungs. Nothing worked he vomitted many times but he still didn't respond to anything. The EMTs showed after about 5 minutes and started to work on him. They worked on him for 30/45 minutes and then put him on the back of a truck and took off to the hospital with his girlfriend. It was a heavy experience that I will never forget. You hear people say that don't take things for granted and always appreciate the people around you, and it's the truth. I never knew Nasu but my prayers go out to his girlfriend, his friend who went through this with us, and his family and friends.
Video of Bruce Iron's winning wave at the Eddie - with the closeout shorebreak barrel (from allaboutsurf.com)
Amir sent in some niceness photos
A few Bliss shots
Lewis dropped some bombs.
Guy with a huge red board found the flow.
Some smack-downs on the paddle out.
I got some whiplash on one over-the-falls wipeout.
Is it possible to talk about surfing without exploiting it?
Does it matter that spot or town names are rarely mentioned?
Does it matter that the Bay Area is one of the most populous metropolitan areas in the country, with miles and miles of coastline?
Does fomenting excitement about surfing lead to overcrowding and a lessened experience?
Is there any purpose to surf journalism?
Are surf writers and photographers nothing but leeches sucking blood and purity from a threatened pursuit?
Does this site add to the crowds?
Is it therefor unethical?
Is life too short to not express your joy and excitement, albeit with responsibility.
Is this report and community nothing more than a pleasant distraction for many cube-drones locked in front of the screen all day?
Do people decide to go surfing based on what they read here?
Does OB not take care of itself?
Do local beaches not demand that proper dues get paid?
Cold water, sharks, beat-downs, stinkeye, pollution, crushings, barrels, drownings. Do they not weed out the non-committed?
Is it pointless to rehash this old argument or extremely necessary?
If anyone sees a beautiful 6'6" Hickey board lying on the beach or floating out at sea (possibly with an RFS single-fin?) it's blakestah's!
some comments from yesterday:
not that I don't like you, I don't know you. I don't even know if you suck. If you talk about pulling roundhouse cutbacks, I assume you are pretty good because real roundhouses are hard, only really pulled by good surfers. I do dissent to the commercialization of OB, vicariously because my local spots are mentioned here from time to time. I don't like it because I don't like crowded surfing scenes. This site is almost like one big portacrowd promoting surfing. But mostly I just like to get a few gloats because I am a little bitter that surfing has been taken over by lots of e's round the world, and just the act of talking about it on the net for all to hear seems egotistical and presumptious, as well as jeopardizing a good thing. At the least fodder for scorn from the scorners. Not in bad taste just another opinion that deserves to be heard.
Anon - I like fishing, skiing and traveling too - but I don't cry when people talk about their shared experiences of those acts and 'promote' the act of doing foresaid activities.
It was a busy night tonight, but I managed to find plenty of waves, never gave or received any silly stares and never once came close to dropping in or being dropped on. No complaints at all...
Instead of wasting your time posting here (weï¿½ve heard it all before) why donï¿½t you write into some surf magazines that are constantly promoting unknown spots, and only encouraging more and more people to enter and derive pleasure from the sportï¿½see what they have to say to you.
like to have sex, and frankly i'm bummed that the explosion of magazines such as playboy, penthouse, etc. have led other males to go in search of hot chicks with which to fornicate. however, like you anon who complain about sites such as this one yet still read it, i still read these magazines.
my point? i don't have one either.
I have a point. That people from minnesota, ohio, new york, florida, pretty much anywhere in the u.s., see this site and decide that its pretty bitchen on the coast compared to where they are. Sure they can read surfermag and probably do, but the go to the net for a more authentic, organic, experience. And voila, their envy gets the best of them and they are here. Promoting that rather than keeping it hush hush is stupid, accelerating an ongoing process. Yeah surfing busy waves can be fun and cool, but if you found a really good source for nubile young girls, you would want your closest friends to know, but telling those midwesterners et al about it might be a mistake. You might end up with too many stirrers in the coffee. Oh this is san fran and thats cool, twat back. P.S. did you see my editorial in Surfer, entitled stop promoting OB you fools? And my name is anonopoli, so lay off on the anon stuff, its a cool moniker.
this site is making midwesterners want to move to san francisco? uh, that's only been going on in full force for about a hundred and fifty years. hello!, Manifest Destiny. oh, it's specifically making them want to surf? uh, surf media has been pretty huge for about 30 years it seems.
i'm so sick of this attitude: "the line is right here!" (draws arbitrary line right after their last foot step). we're all living on the same planet bro, the only choice is to be humble and try to find a way to get along. you don't have the exclusive rights to this ocean anymore than i do. this site is celebrating and sharing the stoke. it's community.
be like web.
I am not claiming the ocean as my own. I am not questioning the right for everyone to use the ocean, move here and get in the lineup. How bout I start a site that pumps up my break. Channel a few surfers to the santa barbara area, point out the excellent surfing options here, the cranking summer spots and the less known winter ways to waves. Would I pull in any scorners, haters and the like. I could show the midwest pictures of J?????, R?????, E??????, but then could I show my face in the lineup there? Dont think so. Some do expose it, but it a lowkey fashion that is a long way from claiming.
Claim away fools, its been done better and more radically than you. Surfer mag is not promoting OB, you are.
Community, world or local?
Come one come all to santa barbara, I will show you the waves and give you a tour. Preferably full carloads, it save gas.
If you made the paddle out mid-beach today, you can claim what you want. Took me 30 minutes.
I would wager that not many people return to the beach for there 2nd surf session ever if that was their introduction.
Everything is exploited! Get used to it. The reason it is not so crowded up here in comparion to SB, SoCal, etc. is that our waves have big balls! Big hairy balls. It ain't easy to surf the beach. We should be thankful for that.
A few shots that HB sent a while ago that i don't think have been posted?
Feathering, outer-bar gifts.
See a smooth, velvet peak flow toward you from the deep.
Paddle out to meet it.
Spin and start digging as the wave rises high.
Paddle paddle scratch scratch, get in over the ledge.
Hold on, try to balance, down the face, off the bottom.
See that view of the tapering wall, the conical womb, the slick concave dream.
Harness speed and turn off the bottom. Up into the lip. Carve off the top.
Back down the face. Backhand pumping. Wave starts to mush.
Crank a turn into the meat of it. Roundhouse back into the whitewater.
Paddle back for more.
Offshore wind RULES!!!
Saw PaulB take off on some thick set waves. Niiice.
Saw Lerm snag a nice right.
Good to see Adam out there.
Aqua tsunami relief
A few photos from KT. Maybe a little point break in New Jersey?
went surfboarding this morning.
rode a few thumpers.
received some severe beat-downs.
heard it was rad yesterday afternoon.
mostly just paddled and paddled and duck-dove and duck-dove.
cool to surf with Elias and Kaiser Sose.
Kaiser was like the old man and the sea, waiting way way outside for the humunga kawabunga from down undah.
read Persepolis 2 last night and this morning. It's a Graphic novel about a teenager who leaves her intellectual family in war-torn Iran and goes to Austria. She struggles and copes with the european cultural looseness (sexuality, drugs, etc.). The story talks of nihilism, neo-nazis, the Iran-Iraq war, love, philosophy, terror, psychedelics, mathematics, being alone in the world, destitution, faith. I've been laughing and crying as i read. definetely worth checking out. Fabulous illustrations too.
I also recently read George Lakoff's "Don't think of an elephant." It's a short political book. Lakoff is a professor of cognitive science and linquistics at Berkeley and has been very influencial in helping the left modernize its messenging. He talks about "framing" and discusses the core differences in values between conservatives and progressives. He suggests that conservatives see the world from a "strict father morality" point of view while progressives see the world from a "nurturant parent" outlook. He then describes how these core differences play out in the policies and attitudes of each side. An enlightening read, but also scary and wrenching to think about.
Does anyone have suggestions for a place for my girl and i to stay in Santa Cruz this saturday night? We want to hang with J.O.C. for his birthday and also see the Monarch Butterflies at Natty Bridges. We'd like to stay in a low-key, not-too-expensive, comfy spot. Any thoughts?
Florida yesterday morning
a place on earth
Frumpy and disheveled.
A few voluminous, heaving beasties.
Difficult to line up.
Punishing and relentless.
Get a short ride and pay dearly with 300 anvils to the head.
Then get back outside after 8 million duckdives and the ocean goes flat.
Doesn't look gnarly from the beach.
Some anger out there.
This one particular sandbar hucked out gruesome destructo slabs.
In the early morning lack of light the fearsome waves looked like scaly, open-mouthed deep-sea creatures. Fanged mouths wide open looking to swallow unsuspecting surfers. I even noticed a jet-black eyeball on the side of one disgruntled suck-out. I looked deep inside the eye and saw flames and hellfire spurting and vomiting. Deeper still i saw a tranquil scene of wafting palm fronds and a gently peeling warm-water reefbreak... then some smiling hula dancers and chilled-out reggae tunes.. sunshine... warmth... verdant green mountainscape... But then of course reality exploded in my face as that same wave rose up and devoured me whole. Cold.. unforgiving. brutal. painful. gut-wrenching. Angular. Pounding. Solitary. Merciless. Grinding. Thumping. OB.
Surf movie night this saturday
Victoria Theatre at 16th and Mission (7:15 and 9:15)
Pipeline bodysurfing contest (photos from surfermag.com)
East Coast winter
blustery, rainy, onshores this morning.
A few corners for those with serious jones.
What will the best surfers be pulling in 50 years?
How will board design advance?
What will the cutting edge waves be like?
100 ft wave?
Will there be any unsurfed waves remaining?
How will global warming effect weather/storms/swell?
I can imagine a photo-trip with Archy's great grandson and Pat Curren's great-great grand daughter up along the Aleutian chain. Island hopping with a sea-plane, surfing one of the last final frontiers as global warming heats Alaskan water temps to a balmy, early-fall 60 degrees. Boards are small, symmetrical, uber-lightweight double-enders, much like modern skateboards, though averaging around 5ft long. Materials are Seaborgium/Titanium composites. 1/4-inch thick hollowed-out shapes. The bonzer fin setup has taken over, each fin using the RFS system. Archy's grandson drops into a suckout, deep-water lava reef death wave on Okmok island. He casually fades deeper and deeper into the bowels, then bottom turns and scoots under the lip into the barrel. He keeps his speed and rides vertically up the wave-face, inside the barrel, and completes an inverted, twisting frontside barrel loop. lands it clean, comes screaming out of the tube and then launches off the heavy lip into a double-grab double-spin-and-a-twist air. Lands it.
the breakdancing jam CJ and i went to on Friday night was off the hook!! Brain, House and some other musicians threw down one classic, funked-out hip-hop cover after another (White Lines, Rapper's Delight, etc.) while the B-boys and B-girls circled up in the middle of the floor and went completely bananas. So many different styles and modes of expression. Pop-and-Lockers, headspinners, massive displays of acrobatic dexterity. So fun to watch. Wish i had a recording of that music too.. Brain rips so hard on drums!! I read somewhere that he's a skater too.. and was in the original Primus until he broke his leg really bad skating. Then he was replaced by Tim Alexander.. but later came back in the band in the late 90s.. or something.. Primus Sucks!
oh.. and thank you Huey for Saturday morning!! Sweet Bejubus! Bagel and i blazed a nice cone of the chriz and then gorged ourselves on 3-hours of head-high, punchy, glassy beach break succulence. Bagel scored barrel time and smacked the lip so hard on his last wave that my cranium is still feeling the vibrations from that massive whack. Scorage.
Curren at Rincon (photos by Scott Mills)
Over the hill
Smaller, head-high, attractive rollers
Lerm and i paddle out
See a sandbar working
Paddle toward it
Catch a magical right
Long and fast
Pump and meld
More waves for 30 minutes
Then something changes
No more picturesque sets
Dumpy insiders take over
PB paddles out
Guys's a wave vacuum.
He catches 8 trillion waves while Lerm and i scratch our butts.
Frustration for 30 minutes.
Then a chunky double-up comes my way.
Scratch and get in under the lip
hell-bent suckout vortex.
Barely hold-on to the drop
Not quite balanced but i'm deep in a throaty pit.
dig and hold and pump to stay in there.
Thrilled to experience momentary telescoping tubulation.
In there. not quite barrelled.. but a deep narrel.
Then something grabs the tail of my board.
Flipped up, around and then pile-driven down with the lip.
Totally worth it for that split-second view.
Another chunky nicety 5 minutes later to end the sesh.
Still exhilerated from just a few good ones.
Couple gnarl wipes too.
Life, sunshine, computers, surf, jelly beans, love, prayer, dreams.
Death, darkness, injury, sickness, poverty, lima beans, onshores, hatred.
Swell down a bit. 5ft 13seconds at the SF buoy. Some nugs on offer. offshore breeze. Biggest waves flirted with the outer sandbar but most of the action going down on the inside. A few snarling, rabid, bestial barrels that arched and funnelled along in about 3 feet of water. Lots of rips and currents and cross-flow and gurgling strangeness that curtailed waves from expiring ideally. A few lovelies in the mix if you could sniff em' out. Lot's of sandy, dredging, close-out barrel opportunities. Good to see Adam out there taking off on some burly ones. Lerm scored a glassy grinder right in front of me. good to see. All in all a beautiful day to swim and frolic in the ocean. Not great. But.. solid and challenging.
It sounds like a few of you scored nice conditions yesterday afternoon?? But it seems to me that the character of this swell has been strange and funky. Lerm commented that the waves have seemed out of phase. Lots of double-ups and unusual patterns. I had a good time this morning but yesterday and Tuesday the waves just loped in all huge and thick and then sucked-out like mad on the inside and just heaved and crashed, without offering tapering ends. The winds were perfect, the tide was ok, the sandbars seem fine, the swell direction is great.. there's just some weirdness with the character of the waves. Someone mentioned that Santa Cruz was all bumpy and less-than-ideal too. Any thoughts on what's making this swell break so shitty?
Rob Born photos
Most of the niceness dawn-patrollers surfed together this morning at the new lindy. Saw BBR, Friend #1 (nice to meet ya), Kaiser Sose and others out in the beautiful, thwacking, overhead, topsy-turvy sweetness. Lerm and I didn't see any rides in the 10 minutes of spectating so we opted for a quieter scene, drove a mile or so and found our own peak. Paddling out i got fucking jackhammered by an inside anvil. ripped from my board. sucked through the rinse-cycle, then crushed into the bottom. Then my leash got wrapped around my neck and my hair stuffed in my mouth as i struggled to reach the surface. FUN!!
Later i almost slanked into a mean-ol barrel but instead got raped by the lip and again pinned to the bottom. We scored a few rides each but it was tough out there. Punishing and demanding and absolutely unforgiving.
arggh.. meeting now..
a few words from yesterday's comments about weed:
a teacher I usually smoke on weekends, but when I have a bad teaching day I try and toke and this often help me with new ideas and reflect on what went wrong. I am in no way a daily toker but I see the benefits to altered states.
- waves are going off right now bumed to be at work... Mex
hendrix choked on his own vomit at 30 or so. jerry died way too young too because he couldn't kick it. hemingway blew his brains out with a shotgun. occy has made the miracle comeback but openly admits he totally blew it. i heard, total second hand but reliable source, that curren is known to sit in a little house on the north shore during the season, too boozed to go out and just wasting away drinking alone.
you can't blame all this on weed, it's much more complicated than that as we all know, but are these the examples of users to hold up as proof that it doesn't affect one in a negative way?
so i often choose a stonier session for the "floating in the universe" factor... but i won't deny being clumsier for having smoked, and having less cardio endurance.
I almost never smoke before surfing, just because I find the high evaporates when it touches cold water. To me, it is a waste of good weed.
I would much rather spark up after I am surfed out, when I am all relaxed anyhow.
- friend #1
oh man, junk food binge eating right now!! doritos, tropical dots, pizza, i think i'm gonna puke!!
I don't have any bias or opinion on the matter, but I recall an interview (it was either archy or wardo) and he said he would watch the local guys, who would always get blitzed before surfing, and they thought they were killing the waves and progressing, while others sat back and laughed at how sloppy, slow, and lazy they looked.
Louis Armstrong, after his first set, would go outside and smoke a joint. Just before he started playing his second set, he would say to the audience, "Now I'm ready". He did it on Johhny Carson too.
i found my spot today at the top of rockaway mountain with a pipe and my dog..insane day out there..some charging chargers charging the middle of rockaway pulling into practically unmakable barrels..
The teacher looked at the work and asked, "How much marijuana do you smoke?"
"I said a lot. He said he could tell. I was flabbergasted. He pointed out that there was little contrast in much of my work - it was all a bit 'mushy'...That was typical of dopers, he said. They get very inspired and involved in detail but lose the contrast and value. This is also how they see the world."
- quote that friend #1 found
Thick tendrils of cordoroy
spitting, mammoth, barrelling funnels
Sucky, erupting convulsions
Drove the coast.
Finally found a spot.
Got man-handled by the currents
Late for work
Backdoor lives in Nor-Cal.. right under our noses
GWC going bananas off the north-wall. hell-charger central.
Swell cranking and pumping.
Gorgeous, warm, clear sunny day at the beach.
Beautiful California vibrations.
Find your scene.
shout out to Heff in Oregon! Bandon surf head.