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waves, crowds, etc.

Lewis dropped some bombs.
Guy with a huge red board found the flow.
Some smack-downs on the paddle out.
I got some whiplash on one over-the-falls wipeout.

Is it possible to talk about surfing without exploiting it?
Does it matter that spot or town names are rarely mentioned?
Does it matter that the Bay Area is one of the most populous metropolitan areas in the country, with miles and miles of coastline?
Does fomenting excitement about surfing lead to overcrowding and a lessened experience?
Is there any purpose to surf journalism?
Are surf writers and photographers nothing but leeches sucking blood and purity from a threatened pursuit?
Does this site add to the crowds?
Is it therefor unethical?

Or.
Is life too short to not express your joy and excitement, albeit with responsibility.
Is this report and community nothing more than a pleasant distraction for many cube-drones locked in front of the screen all day?
Do people decide to go surfing based on what they read here?
Does OB not take care of itself?
Do local beaches not demand that proper dues get paid?
Cold water, sharks, beat-downs, stinkeye, pollution, crushings, barrels, drownings. Do they not weed out the non-committed?

Is it pointless to rehash this old argument or extremely necessary?

hmmmm..

If anyone sees a beautiful 6'6" Hickey board lying on the beach or floating out at sea (possibly with an RFS single-fin?) it's blakestah's!

some comments from yesterday:

not that I don't like you, I don't know you. I don't even know if you suck. If you talk about pulling roundhouse cutbacks, I assume you are pretty good because real roundhouses are hard, only really pulled by good surfers. I do dissent to the commercialization of OB, vicariously because my local spots are mentioned here from time to time. I don't like it because I don't like crowded surfing scenes. This site is almost like one big portacrowd promoting surfing. But mostly I just like to get a few gloats because I am a little bitter that surfing has been taken over by lots of e's round the world, and just the act of talking about it on the net for all to hear seems egotistical and presumptious, as well as jeopardizing a good thing. At the least fodder for scorn from the scorners. Not in bad taste just another opinion that deserves to be heard.
- anonymous

Anon - I like fishing, skiing and traveling too - but I don't cry when people talk about their shared experiences of those acts and 'promote' the act of doing foresaid activities.
It was a busy night tonight, but I managed to find plenty of waves, never gave or received any silly stares and never once came close to dropping in or being dropped on. No complaints at all...
Instead of wasting your time posting here (we�ve heard it all before) why don�t you write into some surf magazines that are constantly promoting unknown spots, and only encouraging more and more people to enter and derive pleasure from the sport�see what they have to say to you.

Twat.
- Ankors

like to have sex, and frankly i'm bummed that the explosion of magazines such as playboy, penthouse, etc. have led other males to go in search of hot chicks with which to fornicate. however, like you anon who complain about sites such as this one yet still read it, i still read these magazines.

my point? i don't have one either.
- j

I have a point. That people from minnesota, ohio, new york, florida, pretty much anywhere in the u.s., see this site and decide that its pretty bitchen on the coast compared to where they are. Sure they can read surfermag and probably do, but the go to the net for a more authentic, organic, experience. And voila, their envy gets the best of them and they are here. Promoting that rather than keeping it hush hush is stupid, accelerating an ongoing process. Yeah surfing busy waves can be fun and cool, but if you found a really good source for nubile young girls, you would want your closest friends to know, but telling those midwesterners et al about it might be a mistake. You might end up with too many stirrers in the coffee. Oh this is san fran and thats cool, twat back. P.S. did you see my editorial in Surfer, entitled stop promoting OB you fools? And my name is anonopoli, so lay off on the anon stuff, its a cool moniker.
- anonopoli

this site is making midwesterners want to move to san francisco? uh, that's only been going on in full force for about a hundred and fifty years. hello!, Manifest Destiny. oh, it's specifically making them want to surf? uh, surf media has been pretty huge for about 30 years it seems.
i'm so sick of this attitude: "the line is right here!" (draws arbitrary line right after their last foot step). we're all living on the same planet bro, the only choice is to be humble and try to find a way to get along. you don't have the exclusive rights to this ocean anymore than i do. this site is celebrating and sharing the stoke. it's community.
be like web.
- mk1201

I am not claiming the ocean as my own. I am not questioning the right for everyone to use the ocean, move here and get in the lineup. How bout I start a site that pumps up my break. Channel a few surfers to the santa barbara area, point out the excellent surfing options here, the cranking summer spots and the less known winter ways to waves. Would I pull in any scorners, haters and the like. I could show the midwest pictures of J?????, R?????, E??????, but then could I show my face in the lineup there? Dont think so. Some do expose it, but it a lowkey fashion that is a long way from claiming.
Claim away fools, its been done better and more radically than you. Surfer mag is not promoting OB, you are.
Community, world or local?
Come one come all to santa barbara, I will show you the waves and give you a tour. Preferably full carloads, it save gas.
- anon

If you made the paddle out mid-beach today, you can claim what you want. Took me 30 minutes.
I would wager that not many people return to the beach for there 2nd surf session ever if that was their introduction.
Everything is exploited! Get used to it. The reason it is not so crowded up here in comparion to SB, SoCal, etc. is that our waves have big balls! Big hairy balls. It ain't easy to surf the beach. We should be thankful for that.
- kaiser

A few shots that HB sent a while ago that i don't think have been posted?
So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

So Cal niceness

1) yes
2) sometimes
3) no
4) yes
5) no

Posted by: j at February 11, 2005 10:21 AM

Cube-drone, wow, depressing. I think I need a new job now. Maybe gardener?

Posted by: kookdom at February 11, 2005 10:23 AM

Fuck this talk! Always this talk. You who want to play the exploiting card all FUCKING day, go do it somewhere else.

Bring some vibes, and bring some good ones.

I am so fucking stoked right that I gave up a sweet ass right to a regular-footer who could do more with it then I could have done going backside. Yeah, it was "my" wave but someone was in a better spot to kill the falling lip. Who gives a fuck! I got mine. Its called surfing and it is suppose to be fun. Share and share alike or be pissed at the world. You choose......

Enjoy your day. Great waves out there today with a really grueling paddle.

The drop of the day, UNREAL! E, who was that who went before you? Talk to me... That was a ballsy take off.

Posted by: Kaiser at February 11, 2005 10:29 AM

surf. good last night in california.
surf. good last night in hawaii.
surf. good last night in new zealand.
surf. good last night in west oz.
surf. good last night in oregon.
surf. good last night in baja.
surf. good last night in chile.
surf. good in most places at least once a year.

if it gets much bigger than last night the line ups significantly shrink and the waves don't. so just choose your days wisely.

though, last night finding a peak to yourself may have been hard, the WORD was out. And so was the SUN.

it was fun. though not. i saw that fish board too in the sand.

relinquish ownership.
to quote 3to5 i think? "vague is voge"
kill waves not people.
eat good food.
don't give food to hippies.
get stoked.
smile.
don't drop in on people.
remember, that the ocean will be there tomorrow.


it's no secret that california has some good surf. the cat has been out of the bag since the duke came over.

ok. my diatribe is overs.
for those that are surfing today, there will be one less person CLOGGING your lineup.

peace peeps.
boards are fun.

Posted by: elias at February 11, 2005 10:31 AM

Kaiser, that was Lewis on that nice drop.

thanks for giving me that wave kaiser sose. best one of the session for me.

Posted by: e at February 11, 2005 10:32 AM

Last minute effort to catch a wave last night after the sun had set. Very nervewracking. Thinking to myself, "This is really dumb; go back to shore." And, low and behold a wave appears--I got tubed for a coupla seconds. Schweet!! Thank you Gaia.

Waves this morning offering long rides again. It's really great when OB is a little mellower. It really delivers a lot of fun rides. I only had the fortune of enjoying one this morning, but it lasted long enough to cook bacon and eggs and read the newspaper.

Learned yesterday that it takes 6 to 8 million years for all the water in our oceans to circulate through the magma in deep sea spots such as Baja--where lava and water circulate and mix to add minerals to our oceans; then it is released through deep ocean chimneys. Hopefully, we won't allow George Bush to
f**k it all up.

Posted by: amigoism at February 11, 2005 10:32 AM

If this site exploits OB, what is the explaination for crowds at Lindy or HMB? Crowds at OB are seasonal. I'm not in a cube but I am a drone.

Life's too short to worry about what you need to worry about.

Last night at my local break, a guy dislocated his knee. I heard him scream when he came back up the the surface. I met him on the street afterwards as he hobbled from the back of his truck to the passenger seat. He said his knee cap was on the side of his leg. Ouch! Fortunately he had a driver.

I don't remeber a better year for surfing than this year. Since mid September OB has just been cranking. Offshores or glassiness. I've had very few incidents of interference (drop-ins or snaking) this year compared to previous years. Could that be because there has been plenty-o-waves for everyone?

Posted by: Dennis at February 11, 2005 10:49 AM

Not everybody is going to like a surf journalist.Somebody might kick your ass, not me. If users of this site had passwords, I for one would be done complaining. J????? is everybit as burly and intimidating as OB, being north of conception but within easy striking distance of SB. And summers do not suck there. Come on down! The more the merrier! ?'s weeds itself out on big days too, its gotten too big, or ive gotten too scared for me in the winter peak wave days. I've got a vision, I want to start promoting night surfing, maybe I could get a few more takers. It sucks having the best wave in Cali to myself, just a few more in the cove and I would be satisfied. Any tips, e? Maybe infared photography and a good list of advertisers and I could share a little more of the stoke that is surfing. No more from me, useless waste of typing skills this is. Still look at the pics though, girls waves or guitars. Gooday

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 10:51 AM

eeekkkk. this again. barf.

kaiser, i thought waves had corners and where squares and triangles, not hairy balls? of course this is ess eff.......

e, did you get my reply?

as always when you claim: "vague is vogue".


Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 11, 2005 10:53 AM

U.S. Rejects North Korea Demand for Direct Nuclear Talks

North Koreans Say They Hold Nuclear Arms

More Than 20 Are Killed in 2 Rebel Attacks in Iraq

A Careful Apology From Giambi

Maier Resists His Decline by Claiming Giant Slalom

Canseco Talks Steroids in '60 Minutes' Interview

Blue Horizon receives awards at X-Dance Film Festival

Quiksilver Boardriders Store
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Posted by: GOODVIBES at February 11, 2005 11:00 AM

I don't understand the weenies that criticize this niceness site. I think it's a great resource and source of stoke. If peeps don't like it, then don't read it. Overpopulation is a human issue--not talking about surfing. Blame Manifest Destiny and opportunity and greed, beginning with the gold rush--not E. Play nice {:(

Posted by: amigoism at February 11, 2005 11:00 AM

i wish i had some new photographs to post for yall, but i will in about a week or so..until, heres some archives..





Posted by: seth s. at February 11, 2005 11:00 AM

oh i forgot. let's flow some positive energy to niceness head J.O.C., he's dropping into a big one today. let's hoot him into the barrell.
AUWHOOOOOOOOOOO!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 11, 2005 11:08 AM

riding hairy balls. he he he. we are all riding hairy balls.
it actually wasn't hairy at all where i was. the outside wasn't quite working and the inside was mixed up and dumb. should have driven the strip.
if your priority is to get waves to yourself, you can almost always do it. you just have to sacrifice. get out there at dawn. drive a little. paddle out to an unoccupied peak instead of following the leader. whatever.
i personally kinda don't mind a crowd, especially at a beach break as long as everyone surfs relatively well. i like watching other people surf and i learn from them. i generally surf well enough to get mine. it pushes my surfing to jockey a little and know people are watching, although i still fall. alot. and i like to know that if my knee caps is on the other side of my leg someone might help me sort it out. imho who digs hairy balls.

Posted by: steamwand at February 11, 2005 11:11 AM

i can confirm that the spot anon is talking about gets as heavy as big OB, but only at the reef and not nearly as often. i'd post pics of a 20ft (face) day there, but i don't wanna "exploit".

Posted by: bbr at February 11, 2005 11:13 AM

why say barf on this talk and then vague is vogue in the same post? Is this site vaguely about OB or is it specifically about OB? If overcrowding is a population issue, who cares about vague, the people are coming anyway?

What's better, riding a wave, or telling a million people about it? Whats better, giving a wave, or telling a million people that you did?
I am for peace, good vibes and getting along with fellow surfers. But a carload of students at a longtime local spot is asking for a talking to so they can understand as I needed to learn when I was that carload of surfers. Who wants four surfers walking up the beach to come to the peak you are surfing alone? Don't you say to yourself, oh shit, at least for a second? This site is those four surfers, in my opinion. Keep it open to all and you will continue to receive the opinions of all, not just the good vive group. GVG

Posted by: GVG at February 11, 2005 11:16 AM

oh and it looks like the biggest hero of the republican party also liked hairy balls, so all those traditional family values assholes can shove where he liked to.
http://www.laweekly.com/ink/04/49/news-ireland.php

Posted by: steamwand at February 11, 2005 11:17 AM

Dont know how old you guys are, but... I fought leashes. I fought multiple fin surf boards. I fought "valleys". I fought colored wetsuits. I fought surf mags. I fought faces I did not know. I fought it all.And I mean I really tried to hit back. I finally figured out I was really fighting my own ego.. So I let go. Try it...

Posted by: web at February 11, 2005 11:23 AM

confirmation affirmative.

but mr. anon might as well just given driving directions.
if people are worried about secrects getting out, they should make a better effort coding their secrets... get creative.

(for example: A@W@#*^ S#$^ S(#% is pretty easy to figure out... Awesome Surf Site (ASS))

ha. seriously. people are funny.

ok. lets party!

Posted by: elias at February 11, 2005 11:28 AM

I don't get the "vague is vogue" thing anymore. Never did actually...
Just now tried to write a post card to the folks in SB but my hands are too shaky for the pen; spasms still reverberating throughout my spent body.
In terms of miles I may have paddled to Stinson and back during a brutal 5 hour session of glory and humilation.

- I am trying to get away from all of you; a self assumed anonimity. Old friends yeah - great, but all these soul sucking transplanted "local" types who after 15 or so years are still looking for some kind of validation / eddification from their peers. I hear you talking in your pod of latent now surf jock followers espousing your surfing bullshit in the lineup like you have for the last 16 seasons - blah blah blah to you and all your buds. FUCK OFF FOR LIFE YOU FUCKING HATERS.
I am not refering to the Niceness gang at all - if anything they have far more to offer than any of you ever have you creepy sorry assed hairy assed balless Noriega St. drones.

Posted by: Local 415 at February 11, 2005 11:30 AM

I used to live in Topeka, KS but one day I read this blog, realized the surf was good in SF, and moved to surf OB. Now I clog your lineup.

It's all e's fault.

Posted by: Hank at February 11, 2005 11:31 AM

parrrtayy!!!

Posted by: e at February 11, 2005 11:31 AM

"Car load of college students" that would suck. I like this site too. but I learned the old fashion way... and I think that method was also pretty effective.

I've surfed the whole coast into Alaska and the crowds are growing up north, Canada is crazy crowded... I think a lot of it may be the quality of the suits. its also like a rolling stone gathering moss...

Posted by: Mexi at February 11, 2005 11:34 AM

Posted by: damn at February 11, 2005 11:35 AM

party time!!!!

Posted by: elias at February 11, 2005 11:36 AM

I'm quiting this blog stuff, i never make ay sense... it hurt coming to work this AM.

Posted by: Mexi at February 11, 2005 11:37 AM

Thank you web, its cool. I don't surf anymore anyway, except for a couple of times a year. I like to hike and bike with my kids, and I have taken them away from the surfing element because I see a dead end in it. I would like to give driving directions to my favorite spot now, it will make me feel good. Go south on 101 and get off at Bates road. Park and enjoy.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 11:37 AM

There's a big future in artificial reefs...make one inexpensive, simple, and good enough, and it'll really fly.

Thing it, a surfing reef is FAR FAR larger than most people imagine.

Posted by: blakestah at February 11, 2005 11:50 AM

Stoke Meter: getting lower

"I got some grass for ya right here...."

Posted by: Kaiser at February 11, 2005 11:50 AM

one man can make a difference. just a nay sayer spoils the spoils of the cubicle crew. News at cnn.com. used to be news at 11. Global victory Gayness

Posted by: GVG at February 11, 2005 11:51 AM

Posted by: e at February 11, 2005 11:54 AM

the future of OB?

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 11:55 AM

the internet sucks. Surfers are fucking lame. Was cleaning some rich dudes back yard the other day and his wealthy ass kid pulls up with the SUV and pulls out the brand spankin new designer board. Kid was all OC/Beverly Hills 90210/Paris Hiltoned out. Holly fucking shit, this sport is getting gaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy.

Skateboarding already hit a decline recently witht the closure of vans, what a shame. Hopefully surfing is next on the passe list.

Posted by: spring at February 11, 2005 12:02 PM

February 10, 2005 North Shore surf photographer and artist Jon Mozo died from head injuries on February 9th after being driven into the reef at Backdoor. He was 33 years old.

The surf wasn't giant by North Shore standards: about four to six feet out of the west. The sun was out and there were quite a few photographers on the beach and surfers in the water. Mozo hit the reef around 2pm and his body drifted across the inside of the Pipe lineup to in front of the lifeguard tower. Lifeguards tried to revive him with a defibrillator but weren't successful.

"I take care of myself..."

Posted by: Kaiser at February 11, 2005 12:03 PM

wow i havent read every post for a while..

J????? is no secret but SB is almost as inconsistant as SF maybe barring the last 4 months.its like being protective of pacifica..actually thats worse..speaking of SB nice shots HB

besides charging charger was here first

Posted by: bagel at February 11, 2005 12:03 PM

what about stacks and stacks of used junker cars, or abandoned motorhomes, or 200 volkswagon bugs. Or even better, hummers, they might be sturdy enough. Nah, Arnold would probably drive one of them away, turning the reef into a closeout.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 12:03 PM

Where the car is parked I still don't know -...
Big Red is here - nose cracked? ...scratching head- haven't showered is three days...Neck sore. It's freaking noon.
I remember unloading it but where is the car?!
Tripped over happy to see me dog on the way in - fell and stayed down. Found the car - beer bottle left in the backseat tray. Wetsuit in the trunck - stining and wet. Hungry as hell - house is a mess and my wife is missing...
The only fear you fear are your own bad thoughts...
Oh hey - yeah ck CR's list for a dbl board bag is anyone is interested.
No where is that pipe!

Posted by: Mangina at February 11, 2005 12:07 PM

Getting "gay"? As in just starting to now? How do you think Mickey Dora felt when those movies came out? That beach blanket shit? Why do you think he got so bitter and self destructed out of anger? Wake up, this is all nothing new. Your grandkids (if we do not implode ourselves out of lack of ability to coexist) will be saying the same thing.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 12:07 PM

you guys keep talkin about J like i'm a secret spot. i'm EZ to find, 101 south, exit woodside road....look for the 5'2 tweaky lookin douchebag in the cube pluckin away at his keyboard.

let's see...weekend plans....run e******, drink b***, get ****, and maybe catch a s*** m**** in the m******.

Posted by: j at February 11, 2005 12:12 PM

So grab a fuckin digery-do and move to the outback

Posted by: I at February 11, 2005 12:12 PM

gayist thing is pro surfers modeling for t-shirts and glasses and shit. no wonder surfing so popular in SF. what other sport gets so gay except maybe golf?

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 12:13 PM

Oh fuck - I know Jon Mozo - he is ___was ____an art player on Oahu. He helped with organizing events around the Laguna surf art show that toured Oahu in 2003 and had a hand in a lot of local stuff - what a bummer... He has/had a nice little art framing shop N Haleiwa - wow - life is short.

Posted by: Dickey Mora at February 11, 2005 12:16 PM

spring time!! then it's summer!

Posted by: cletus at February 11, 2005 12:22 PM

Tennis is pretty lame. So is Curling.

Don't knock bowling, bowling is sweet......

Sorry I had to start the pic posting early, IT IS MY DUTY TO SHAKE UP THE VIBE when the vibe meter gets low:

Posted by: Kaiser at February 11, 2005 12:22 PM

If you take away one thing from the discussion today, please let it be Dickey Mora's words:

"Life is short"

Now go enjoy yourselves.

Posted by: kookdom at February 11, 2005 12:25 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at February 11, 2005 12:26 PM

Chris sent me this.. taken yesterday. world champion was here.

Posted by: e at February 11, 2005 12:26 PM

"Hey Bad Vibe, how's it look
from the dunes?"

Posted by: just dial B-A-D-V-I-B-E at February 11, 2005 12:27 PM

holy schneikees!
get busy at work and squeezing surf sessions
in and all hell breaks loose on this here blog.

i have not looked at it today BUT yesterday and
wed were 2 of the BEST days i have had at OB in
a LONG time. and ya know what? the sessions were
an hour and 2 hours long. shared a peak yesterday
with a very chill, cat who gave me the fattest right
of the day and hooted me the whole drop. dropped
backside dragged my ass through a leg burning turn
and THH-WACCCKK!! off the lip...a bucket i think..
two more turns kicked out and gift guy smiles
when i get back outside..."so how was that one?"

too cool. smile. give waves. be happy.
we're breathing. mozo was 33. wow i'll be 35 in a
few....enjoy it while ya got it folks.

Posted by: korewin at February 11, 2005 12:28 PM

week end art report

George Condo

Posted by: cadaver at February 11, 2005 12:29 PM

stringy, but where would the baby cuddle with all those elbows and hipbones. skinny is thinny. Good Vagina Gawking

Posted by: GVG at February 11, 2005 12:29 PM

Cadaver: And you're point is?

Posted by: DUNE WHACKER at February 11, 2005 12:34 PM

The pro's dress like you do.
Pron rules.

Posted by: Mangina at February 11, 2005 12:36 PM

uhhh. I give up whattizzit?

Posted by: cadaver at February 11, 2005 12:37 PM

Who is driving the truck. Don't those guys need a driver? Dorian was anon on this board yesterday, and AI complained that he did not get enough waves at the beach.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 12:51 PM

Mitchel bros was going off last night!

Posted by: AI at February 11, 2005 12:53 PM

I also got my party on with some bears in the Castro!!

Posted by: AI at February 11, 2005 12:57 PM

Pro's at the beach so what.....Ice Cube told you years ago and I'm telling you now...

So I dedicate this one to the groupie
And the Charlie all on my Snoopy
Brothers keep asking Ice Cube yo when will you bust
They surround me and make a big fuss
Now I was taught back on my block
That you don't ride on nobody's jock
For anything they do
Fuck him and his crew
Unless you were gettin paid too
I'm not saying this to dis each and every fan
Women you can ride but man be a man
Shake my hand and make it a firm shake
Say what's up Ice Cube and then break
Cause if you're hangin there I'm a tell you loud and clear
Get off my my dick nigga and tell your bitch to come here

Posted by: Tom at February 11, 2005 01:03 PM

Sean Collins
Surfline
Wave Cams
Surf Report
All the Mags
Jerry Lopez writing about G land
Jeff Clark & Mavericks publicity
Surf Shops
Surf clothing
ASP
Surf stickers that say "Kellys cove local"
Surf Movies
Steve Spaulding
Mark Richards
Tom Curren
Laird doing TV specials
Gidget
Blah Blah Blah

I think e is a very small grain of sand on a very big beach

I think we should kick Lopez's ass for busting open G land. What a kook.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 01:11 PM

http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/zip/59366999.html

Posted by: FreeStuff at February 11, 2005 01:12 PM

vague is vogue....

"3to5...where did you surf today?"
"OB, it was fun, a little overhead, got a few nuggs, took a few on the head. Go get some before dark."
VS.
"Jonny Claimer, where did you surf today?"
"Dude OB, right at (sorry i can't, but insert your avenue here), the sandbars are so dialed right now. Fuck! staircase # (again, I can't do it, barfing trying) was on fire but packed so I jogged up to that little low tide a frame peak in front of(getting dizzy, short of breath....selling the details hurts)

Now which version could possibly lead to your little secret sandbar becoming everyones secret sandbar?

Vague was the way I was shown by the older locals when was a grom. They'd never tell us the details of where they surfed or how that sandbar up the beach really is. They made us work for it. Earn it. Respect it.

So, I think it be hot if people where vague. Still freindly, and full of positive stoke. Just a little shy on location details when posting.


Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 11, 2005 01:16 PM

I'm taking out my 9'er tonight and gonna catch a shitload of waves. No mercy!

Posted by: Dennis at February 11, 2005 01:19 PM

Kaiser, you're an unbelievable man. Vibe meter now: sexy!

for an ironic comparison of an atlantic surf report, check out www.joemac.net -- his reporters dial in conditions in towns all over NJ... i'm sure it pisses some off, but most like knowing when the fickle atlantic is coming on. all these locals don't seem to have a problem reporting AND through their sense of community they actually organize, protect waves, stay active and involved.

speaking of artificial reefs, there's a pretty big movement to get one in Jersey... Natty New Jersey?

Posted by: j.o.c at February 11, 2005 01:23 PM

J.O.C. i'm coming down your way tonight. i'll be there all weekend.. awww yeah!
psyched for pizza-making.

Posted by: e at February 11, 2005 01:26 PM

Anyone headed to the Independent tonight, what is the lowdown on Jahi and the Life?

Posted by: kookdom at February 11, 2005 01:44 PM

crowds according to me:

if you are better than me you have earned the waves you are taking, so if im not getting enough waves its on me to find another peak.

if you are not as good as me i know i'll get my fair share so no worries, and if i'm getting enough and you are not and are cool about it i wont wave-hog.

if you drop in on me i'll be pissed and will let you know about it muthafucka!

Posted by: vons at February 11, 2005 01:49 PM

Yesterday late afternoon was nice mid-beach, though I had only a short time to surf and didn't get much---saw some awesome rides. This guy manages a nice drop on a big left and slickly manages to avoid, er, some fucking kook who is in his way. I paddled into the next one, which also looked great, caught it at just the right spot, and then muffed the pop-up while gazing in awe at the wall lining up for me. I suck!

Today mid-morning was a quick tour of most of the beach; started really good with fun rides on the outer bars (should've been more aggressive early on, but at least I got some), then got junkier up north, partly because of the tide, probably, with only the inner bar supplying any action.

Damn, blakestah, I hope you get that amazing board back. Keep us posted!

Posted by: kloo at February 11, 2005 01:56 PM

Big left and avoiding kook in his way was me, I think.

Late drop and I was heading straight at him. Barely turned enough, missed his head by about 6 inches. He was off his board, holding his railsaver, head bobbing right in my path, looking like a deer in the headlights.

Made the section, pulled up into the face. Wwooot! Went and apologized to him after paddling back, or rather, apologized to his cardiologist. Generally I would rather skip the wave than come that close. No wave is worth embedding an RFS in someone's forehead. But I was committed before I could make such a choice, and bailing was riskier than near-missing.

Posted by: blakestah at February 11, 2005 02:06 PM

That picture confirms my thoughts; Shane Dorian is a dork.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 02:08 PM

Love how there are some pics of amazing waves from Long Beach up at the top with a few lucky heads on it and everyone is crying about crowds and ruined sessions.

Enjoy life and riding waves while you can. I am sure Mozo would agree. I do.

Posted by: Hb at February 11, 2005 02:09 PM

Hail kaiser...

Posted by: bird at February 11, 2005 02:11 PM

Looked out at the middle of the beach this past week. Saw a guy take a left backside and cream it. Odd, I thought because the guy really creamed it. I mean, ripping beyond what you normally see at the beach or what you normally see anywhere else for that matter. The guy was ripping hard. Very hard. So, now that I have read this today I'm guessing it was AI. If it was him, or whoever it was, they were killing it on that left.

Posted by: Jimbo at February 11, 2005 02:12 PM

Nah, mine wasn't all that close, and I was duck-diving; it was a guy with long, blondish hair who I'd been surfing next to for a while. I would've recognized you (now that I wear contacts out there). Guy was obviously in good control on a clean face, and he got a really long, nice ride, too, so I'm glad he didn't bail.

Posted by: kloo at February 11, 2005 02:14 PM

A few months ago someone on this blog was looking for broken surfboards for an art project. I am moving houses and was going to trash four snapped boards sitting in my garage. Come by Menlo Park and pick them up and they are yours. rborn@twvp.com.

Posted by: rob born at February 11, 2005 02:23 PM

I was out late afternoon yesterday and saw quite a few near misses...most of which would be easily avoided had paddlers took the wave on the head instead of paddling for the shoulder.

I also saw some really beautiful waves.

Posted by: Reality Check at February 11, 2005 02:30 PM

Blakestah, not sure if you saw this on Surfline:

Found board, Pacheco late in the afternoon of Thursday 10th of Feb. E-mail alexatfrisco@aol.com

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 02:32 PM

Taken 12/17/04 heading for HNL. Respect it, Protect it - and quit your whining. The paddle looks a little thick, dont'ya think?



Posted by: The Wrestler at February 11, 2005 02:45 PM

Wake up at 5:30 anticipating a DP. Take the dog for a little trot up in the hills behind my house. It's our usual wake up and get out before the wife and kids wake up and guilt me out of the DP. The stars are shining, it's pitch black but I can see a little. come around a bend and I see something moving about 25 yard ahead. It's just a black thing about a foot off the ground but moving. Hmm must be a cat. Dog takes off after it. Scuffle, bark, oh shit. Skunk Stink! Uggggh. What a way to start a day. Hose off the dog with vinegar, make coffee, take off for the beach. Strong offshores make the usual closeouts even less surfable. Didn't get skunked twice though, That would've sucked.

Posted by: C is for Closeout at February 11, 2005 02:47 PM

Posted by: taj fan at February 11, 2005 03:07 PM

Wrestler, great anticipation, thanks for sharing, that was a fine day, and a great view of it.

Posted by: blakestah at February 11, 2005 03:19 PM

Blake - re your comment about artificial reefs...did you ever read this article http://www.wired.com/wired/archive/12.05/surfing.html makes interesting reading for sure.

All about adjustable wave pools, with perfect long barrels - these guys mapped the topography of all the best breaks in the world and figured out what makes the 'perfect' wave, then replicated it in an adjustable wave pool. Not sure if they have finished their first one or not yet.

Also I hear that they dumped some artificial reefs (massive bags filled with sand) in the gold coast (oz) that each create a perfect left and right - with a nice channel in-between. Interesting stuff. Although I am sure someone will moan about it not being purist enough.

I bet you'd like Kerry Black's job eh?

Just back from nice session on the middle - although the tide was killing it a bit - still plenty of energy tho....

Good to see once monthly or so flurry of posts, complaining about OB crowding. That cracks me up. Soon as it tops 8ft or so there are always only a handful of people out! Although the parking lot is usually full of people with boards on their roof talking crap!

Like someone said its pretty much self regulating?thank god its not like So Cal.

Posted by: ankors at February 11, 2005 03:36 PM

hey wrestler thanks for my new desktop!

Posted by: vons at February 11, 2005 03:38 PM

amazing article, ankors. it seems the future of surfing will not take part in the ocean....and surfing will probably grow larger than anyone imagined....Kerry Black has changed surfing as we know it.

and once those surfparks are built in the midwest, this site should stop taking heat from all the anon haters. why move out west when perfect barrels grind at the local shopping mall!? but hey, watch out for those mall locals!!

Posted by: rza at February 11, 2005 04:14 PM

I don't think surfparks are all that.

Do the math on the volume of water moving around for different wave periods. You're just not going to get the same energy you even get in a 10 second period wave from a surfpark. No way. Even the cost feasilibity to make that much energy is astonishing.

Better to find a stretch of coastline with poorly shaped surf breaks, and turn it into a series of Superbanks. That's what I'm talking about.

Posted by: blakestah at February 11, 2005 04:25 PM

from surfpark.com:

FAQs

What happens during a Surf Session?
Each Surf Session will have a maximum of 36 people. The 36 will be grouped by ability/wave preference in six groups of six. In the Big Pool there is a "Liquid Lounge" waiting area (with video monitors for viewing previous waves) on the side of the pool, with a gate that leads into the take-off zone of the Surf Pool. During a lull (15-30 seconds) in the wave action, the gate opens and a group of six surfers paddle into the lineup. Waves are generated in sets of six, so each person in the group gets one wave in a predetermined order. Surfers least likely to wipe out go first, to prevent potential tangles. Each wave comes in nine-second intervals, similar to the ocean on a typical head-high day. When surfers finish the ride, they paddle back to the Liquid Lounge in a current-assisted return channel that runs along the outside of the Surf Pool.
After the set, there is a lull in wave action, the entry gate opens again, a new group of six paddles in, and the process repeats itself. For groups smaller than 36, we would spread out the wave interval and/or run less than 6 waves per set.


How long will I have to wait in line to get a wave?
You will wait no more than 6 minutes between each of your waves in a full capacity session (36 people). We can produce up to 6 waves per minute, so with 36 people, it takes 6 minutes to cycle through everyone.

Will I get dropped in on?
No. One person is allowed to take off per wave. Unless it's a private session with your friends and your buddy wants to screw with you.

Posted by: rza at February 11, 2005 04:35 PM

1) who is going to pay for these man made breaks? Not my vote. My tax dollars go to schools if I have any say. Not a bunch of loser surfers with low paying jobs.
2) What about the Coastal Comission? I cannot even add a bedroom. Artifical reef for surfing? Dream on. But nothing wrong with a dream I guess.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 04:53 PM

mmm mmm beeyatch

Posted by: j at February 11, 2005 04:53 PM

privately funded by the patagonia owner, who will, rather than leave a legacy for his descendents, will give it all for a few choice surf reefs between cambria and santa cruz, unknowingly creating a monster. Crowds of folks from the midwest will abandon the mall waves in search for some juice, and souly big sur central coast surf missions will be a thing of the past. Or maybe its too late seeing how I have typed this. Great Valley Going west

Posted by: GVG at February 11, 2005 05:03 PM

Blake - well I have to say yes and no. Firstly no way will a surfpark ever equal the energy you're going to get out in the open ocean that?s has been built up over a long period by a serious storm.

But that's not what these guys are after - it seems like most people (as I referenced above) don't actually like the amazing rush you get from feeling the energy from a large ocean OH++ swell crashing down on you. Hence OB being much much less busy on larger days. The few people who are out then are not the target market. Take a 3-5 glassy day at OB - shed loads of people who like glassy mellow waves - these people would jump at the chance to ride perfect wave after perfect wave in this kind of environment - you don't need huge amounts of energy for that kind of wave.

That all said you ever been on one of those real standing waves? Don't know if they have any in the states - below is a pic of the one in Durban I was on - and I am sure if anyone reading this has been on that - they can attest it is a surprisingly scary experience. HUGE powerful wipeouts, amazing amount of energy. Ok so the fact that you get sucked upside down into the barrel and dumped on your head into 3 ft of water, and then proceed to get sent backwards down a cheese grater like drainage rack - does make the whole experience somewhat more frightening and painful than it needs to be.

If these parks live up to the BS then I think they will be a great success. And hopefully a lot of the success and technology will get passed on to the build of some great artificial reefs. Fine by me either way.

And to whoever is going to post saying this will ruin surfing as we know it ? and the place will be littered with terrible artificial reefs and loose it?s connection to the ocean etc.. etc? next time you head up to Tahoe don?t even think about taking up the chairlift or going near any of the ?groomed? runs?.


Posted by: ankors at February 11, 2005 05:04 PM

i believe the primary motivation/$$ behind the artificial reefs that have been attempted so far has been compensation for destruction of other breaks through development. chevron made one of them, didn't they? b-stah, do you think offshore reefs, floating, are realistic. that would really open up some possibilities on the east coast where i think the continental shelf erodes a lot of wave energy. oh and thanks for sending me the bumpers and i hope you found your board.

Posted by: steamwand at February 11, 2005 05:08 PM

The only way artificial reefs will ever get funded is if it is tied into a project to prevent beach and or high end coastal real estate erosion.
That is how the super bank in Australia was created. The Tweed River was dredged and the sand was pumped into strategic locations to benefit the local surf community and prevent beach erosion. Everyone wins.

My idea for a long time has been to put a perfect triangle shaped reef in the middle of Baker Beach to create a peak A Frame. Not the greatest swell exposure but still decent on a NW the positive is it is very protected from prevailing winds. Plus you could design it with the secondary intent of preventing erosion in Seacliff..you get SFs elite backing you it just might actually happen.

Chevron wave was a joke, semi rideable closeout.

Posted by: Reality Check at February 11, 2005 05:31 PM


Friedfashizzelbeach:

All good bad dumb poignant rambling useful surfer related cunillinguistic reiinformation I guess...

To the future.

Blend in. Stay silent.

BV

Posted by: Andy B.V.B Inc. Irons Dorian at February 11, 2005 05:46 PM

how are the waves? i'm finally leaving work...

Posted by: caveman at February 11, 2005 07:11 PM

Have fun, Ethan. The barking at night is from the sea lions.

Posted by: Rocky at February 11, 2005 07:21 PM

dudes,

wtf happened to we-walk? it looks like the sold the domain name.

trippe, you still out there? got any contact info on them, or know if they moved domains or what...?

Posted by: g at February 11, 2005 07:38 PM

oh man. i'm blunted. there's no hyphen in the name. nevermind.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 07:53 PM

The parks systems build tennis courts. Golf courses. Look at the number of people surfing in California - why not a surfing reef?

You could put it a coupla miles out, force people to pay to use it, and run people back and forth on a zodiac. Crowd control emuinently possible. Money making potential.

Floating reefs are possible, there is a small-scale model in Japan built for harnessing swell energy. Even a small scale model is pretty big by most standards.

Posted by: blakestah at February 11, 2005 07:56 PM

Enviro-people would sink the idea instantissimo.

Posted by: eco-reminder-dude at February 11, 2005 10:07 PM

crowwds. Shitah. As long as the vibe is focussed on etiquette, and not on dickheads making your life as miserable as theirs.

Artificial reefs - 20 years from now there won't even be an issue. They're doing it well in Australia already. Let's face it, there are a lot of places that just need a bottom to have a good wave. How many just-need nominees could each of us come up with in one breath? Why not even make in an entrepreneur thing - charge admission, have a rope tow (sorry to unhinge the gag reflex in some). How many good waves does it take to have a good day? How much would you pay for some reasonable assurance that would happen? How much time, energy, money (same thing) do you put into the sport/lifestyle now? Why do you see so few older people, or women. You could do a whole undersea environmental enhancement. Bottom line - there's more people on this planet that want to surf (or do) than waves to accommodate them. Rats in a cage - some turn into junkyard dogs. Having surfed a lot of places, the dogs are about the only thing that can really ruin a day. Peace

Posted by: banjo at February 11, 2005 10:29 PM

all i gots to say to you kids is $240 dollahs worth o puddin, awwwww yyyeeeaaahhh...

http://www.blogtelevision.net/p/Watch-Video-240-worth-of-puddin___1,2,,8756.html

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 11:56 PM

Enviro people wouldn't kill it. Reefs are teeming with sealife. You would create a zone inside the reef that had much stiller water. A lagoon, if you will, rich in sealife.

Posted by: blakestah at February 12, 2005 07:02 AM

$240 worth o puddin was from me...

Posted by: gvibe7 at February 12, 2005 07:37 AM

ankors, I don't know man, the past few large swells have had a lot of people out there (obviously not as many, as the small glassy days). Still pretty crowded at the end of the beach at least.

Posted by: Ian at February 12, 2005 12:17 PM

Seems like the engineers who designed that "standing wave" weren't exactly firing on all braincells to give the bottom and "drainage rack" of that thing hard surfaces, so when you fall, you get all messed up. What kind of doofus technology is that? If they're so into the dangerousness element, why not just line the trough of that thing with broken bottles or big nails sticking out to simulate that true reefpass feeling?

Posted by: cadaver at February 12, 2005 12:43 PM

The guys in Durban were telling me that when the wave thing opened they had a crew from the local hospital standing by full time. 2 people broke their necks in the first 6 months. Guess that's why it wouldn't fly here! Thankfully I learned this after the fact in the changing rooms - otherwise I might not have headed out! Yes it's not the brightest of designs...

Posted by: ankors at February 12, 2005 02:02 PM

Anybody know the guy who drowned at the north end today? I saw the fire trucks leaving after surfing at sloat, heard he washed into the inside attached to his board.

On a happier subject, Web, if you wouldn't mind shooting me an email - eric.deeds (at) sbcglobal.net - I'd love to ask you some more detailed questions about the surfing / sailing thing. I've got some longer term plans to do a sailing / surfing trip down mexico and central america. I've been sailing all my life, mostly racing, right now I'm saving money for a more cruising oriented boat, hoping to take a year off in a couple of years.

Posted by: Eric at February 12, 2005 04:24 PM

I just heard about the drowning as well. Couldn't find any news out on it.

Hate to hear that!

Posted by: Kaiser at February 12, 2005 06:32 PM

Surfed mid-beach early, and saw three broken boards; and now the drowning---fuck! It didn't seem all that oomphy out there; maybe I was a lull magnet. Sick to my stomach about the drowning; if anyone has details....

Posted by: kloo at February 12, 2005 08:17 PM

Maybe he didn't die?

http://www2.cbs5.com/localwire/localfsnews/bcn/2005/02/12/n/HeadlineNews/WATER-RESCUE/resources_bcn_html

Posted by: kloo at February 12, 2005 08:39 PM

Bay City News Wire
UPDATE: MAN PULLED FROM OCEAN BEACH WATERS DEAD
02/12/05 4:25 PST
SAN FRANCISCO (BCN)

A 28-year-old man was pronounced dead today at a San Francisco hospital after surfers reportedly pulled his body from the water at Ocean Beach, according to the San Francisco Fire Department.

The Fire Department received a call at 11:44 a.m. that a person was floating in the water at Ocean Beach near Judah Street. When paramedics arrived around 11:45 a.m., surfers had pulled the man onto the shore and were administering CPR to the man, said a fire department dispatcher.

The man was transported to University of California, San Francisco Medical Center, where he was pronounced dead on arrival.

The victim was reportedly wearing a wetsuit, although it is unclear whether he was surfing or body surfing before he drowned.

The victim's identity has not been released.

Posted by: at February 12, 2005 08:52 PM

Somebody has to have been there to tell the tale. Of all days to go - I told a friend the lips actually seemed thin for a change. When it's your time...vaya con dios.

Posted by: banjo at February 12, 2005 09:52 PM

Jimbo
When/where did you see the guy killing the left? Evening session at Rivera, Weds night? If so, it was AI.

Posted by: hey Jimbo at February 13, 2005 05:14 PM

Anyone know him?

--------

The San Francisco Medical Examiner's office has identified the man pulled out of the ocean by surfers Saturday as 28-year-old Charles Gilstrap, Investigator Richard Vetterli reported today.

Gilstrap, a resident of San Francisco, was known by friends as "Nasu Dyami," Vetterli said.

Surfers noticed a body floating in the water at Ocean Beach near Judah Street around 11:44 a.m. on Saturday.

Paramedics transported Gilstrap to the University of California, San Francisco Medical Center where he was pronounced dead on arrival.

An autopsy will be performed Monday to determine the exact cause of Gilstrap's death, according to Vetterli.

Posted by: at February 13, 2005 05:41 PM

Word on the street was the drowning victim was preparing to learn to surf. Uncomfortable in the water with a board, he wanted to practice swimming first. A tragedy.

Posted by: blakestah at February 13, 2005 07:45 PM

I'd be curious to know anyone with FIRST HAND EYE WITNESS accounts seeing AI and/or Shane surfing. I know a LOT of guys who were out at Rivera Wed nite, none of whom had anything but grapevine to rely on. And a few reports "from the beach" of "guys killin it", but that's hardly a sighting.

Posted by: blakestah at February 13, 2005 07:48 PM

I thought that I should share this with you all, as I was out on saturday morning with a buddy. He had been caught on the inside and decided to go in, so I stayed out a little bit longer and came in about 15 minutes later. At that point he was about 50 yards north of me with another surfer looking out into the water with some other girl. I eventually get up to my buddy and he tells me that they are looking for this guy's friend and her boyfriend who had been out body surfing but never made it back to shore. The girl eventually sees something black floating in the water no more than 25 yards out. The 3 of us jumped in and paddled to Nasu who hadn't been seen for the last 10 minutes. When we got to him, he was floating on his stomach with his head completly submereged under water. Once the 3 of us turned Nasu on his back, he started foaming from the mouth and his friend started blowing air into it. We put the body onto his friends board and the 3 of us started paddling in. His friend kept blowing air into his mouth but it wasn't helping at all. We eventually dragged him to shore and his friend and another women continued performing cpr and trying to clear his lungs. Nothing worked he vomitted many times but he still didn't respond to anything. The EMTs showed after about 5 minutes and started to work on him. They worked on him for 30/45 minutes and then put him on the back of a truck and took off to the hospital with his girlfriend. It was a heavy experience that I will never forget. You hear people say that don't take things for granted and always appreciate the people around you, and it's the truth. I never knew Nasu but my prayers go out to his girlfriend, his friend who went through this with us, and his family and friends.

Posted by: jb at February 13, 2005 08:17 PM

damn...RIP

Posted by: j at February 13, 2005 10:40 PM

wow, intense

Posted by: bbr at February 14, 2005 09:32 AM

eat dog shit you young wippersnapers

Posted by: tom bomb at February 16, 2005 10:11 PM

im an old man riding a huge long board, get the fuck out the way...you whining young turds

Posted by: tom bomb at February 16, 2005 10:15 PM
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