E's Surf Report

Saw your blog on the front page of surfline. As a surf journalist, you must be stoked on the international exposure. As for the people who said that surfline and the surf media was the main contribution to the influx of surfers, well looks like a little joining of forces here. But I for one am stoked and congrats to you, embrace what you cant change thats what I say. The more the merrier, if we could just get everyone to actually share and give waves...

love that grom shot --- if i only had exposure to waikiki waves at that young age -- alas, we can't live it over again -- make the best of it--"embrace what you can't change"

awoke stoked to catch a few this a.m....
must have gotten the wrong sheet music...

mine said 4/4 time and OB was running
at at least double that...could not quite get
into anything....i was too slow.

you know things are off when you have to
pull the wetsuit sleeve down from mid-arm
4 or 5 times while paddling back out.

saw mr.sose's late drop (stuck it!�go pops!)
right and some hooded dude on an epoxy board
with an old school op logo on it KILLING IT!

on the up side...my sinuses have not been this
cleaned out in two weeks.

the dolphins were great. e�did you see that one catch
that nice walling left? best ride of the morning.

thou shall not snaketh thy brethren.

E,
I think the Ryan Mavs Charger you are referring to is Ryan Seelbach. All around good guy who surfs the beach quite a bit.

As for Ghost Trees, I really got hardcore into surfing while living in that area as a grom. Back in like 87 I remember checking out all the spots in the area on a big swell and that spot is visible from the road(but access is an issue). We checked it out and were just in awe of how heavy a wave that was. I have some old grainy photos of it from that era. I will find them and scan them to show.

E - I think ye mistaken.

Unless you were fighting the Rip out in front of my house, along with Doof and some other neighbors.

Very hard to be in the right spot. Waves breaking down the up escalator it seemed.

Doof broke his leash and had to swim in. He was going to bail but came back on his backup.

Saw some beautiful waves and rode a couple, lots of dolphins out. Doof got pictures of them on the Gopro. Hopefully there is enough light.

great reviews - I'll be reading the ghost tree tonight.

the dolphin were also out during my sunset session last saturday san mateo county beach south of miramar - graceful arching leaps above the surface
drew a crowd on the bluff

there would be fewer divorces (and marriages) in this world if prospective grooms were not blinded by love and saw the blood thirsty potential of their beautiful brides as portrayed by mr. flores

Dolphins are local! Those guys were killing it out there. One of those freaks split right between me and another guy right on the face of the wave, lept out of the face, and kept on rolling....Thanks for the props, not really deserved I say but still appriciated.

I have a bucket of water stuck in my nose. Could have been from the reverse 360 my body took as I fell backwards over the falls. Real fun when your head is aimed at the sand and you can do nothing about it.

Beautiful morning. Challenging waves. Let's hope the rains stay away for another day at least....

Pipe Bodysurfing

does everything include nothing?
If you have everything there is nothing else. There isn't anything else. Therefore everything is nothing.

Everything is such as it is, not such as it is, both such as it is and not such as it is, and neither such as it is nor such as it is not.

This is the central teaching of the Buddha as seen by Nagarjuna, and is known as the catuskoti.

9 to 11 at a popular spot: clean, increasingly shapely waves, offshores, lulls for easy paddling. Get out, catch my breath, turn and paddle into a buttery left with a long, user-friendly shoulder---so easy. But that would be my only exhibition of nonineptitude. Next wave I'm pitched and dragged pretty far in. After that long lulls and many missed waves (my "go for it" paddling seemed really feeble somehow, and the growing crowds made for other ways to miss waves). Finally I need to get in and so I commit to a wave knowing I can't make the section---I'll take a close-out drop. I can't get up before the lip drops over me. But I stay on and ride a couple of sweet re-forms into shore.

My friend hit a dolphin while surfing, I was too busy ripping to notice them

If all goes well, it'll be an after work sess for me. Yesterday was my 52nd BD. Wife gave me a stack of music DVD's along with Riding Giants. I'll watch that tonight.

those pesky dolphins..bummer day to not have car..looks really fun right now on the cam.

Did the dolphin call out your friend for dropping in? Did your friend notice if the dolphin had a Norcal tattoo?

me too bagel. no car and jonesing.
stoopid stoopid stoopid.

i too like the "embrace what you can't change."

i am going to embrace being at work today. knowing that there is now no chance to surf this afternoon.

har dy har har har.......
but seriously...
good little mantra.

On the Dolphin note I seem to recall reading a story where a dolphin accidently speared some guy surfing at Rincon in the 80s. As I recall the dolphin leaped out of the water and nailed some guy in the head causing pretty signifcant head injuries.

The thinking at the time was the dolphin jumped out of the water not knowing the guy was there and accidently hit him.

I have actually had a dolphin drop in on me a couple times and that is a really cool experience sharing a wave with such a creature. Although I always think about that story though when I see a few of them headed toward me on a wave.

Breaking news: Right outside my window, a fire just broke out on the third floor of a six floor apartment building. SFFD ison it. Now back to our regular programming.

good grief Dennis - car wrecks, fires...do you work for wicked clever insurance firm? What are you doing to those poor people?

Drove a zillion miles for cleaner water because my aggravating stomach rebels at the remotest hint of yuck water. 2 footers, if even that, and so windy at the beach the board could stick to my body leaving both hands free. At least was pleased that zippy new board easily whipped kooky turns in the lamest, tiniest crud imaginable. So easy it's like turning via telepathy. Free chocolate chip cookie from fellow surfer. Gulped it and hit the road before remembering " whoops I hope that cookie didn't include any suprise suplements. " Got home and water looks green to go. D'oh!! Cookie also checked out normal.

Just another day in the Tenderloin S.S.

Any word on the results of the autopsy of the drowning victim?

how about rainbows? I was surfing a mystical rivermouth and saw a rainbow once.

They found traces of chocolate chip cookie in his stomach.

i'd rather drink real poison than look at OB firing on the cams at work again

It turns out that the drowning victim was actually my neighbor. He and his girl (Phoenix) were super punk-rock style and moved in across the street from me after burning man. The guy who drowned had this beat-up red pickup truck with a huge burning man logo painted on the side and fake bloody zebra fur seat covers. He also had this huge vice bolted to the side of the truck that held a rear-view mirror. It was kind-of weird because i generally have a very "wave-at-your-neighbor" relationship with most of the folk on my street. I'm pretty friendly with the guy who lives with this couple. I tried many many times to make eye contact and say hi to this guy and his girl but they would never look at me. His girl works at Judahlicious and has blue dreadlocks. It was so sad/scary/weird last night when i realized the drowning victim everyone was talking about was actually my neighbor whom i'd seen around a million times.

RIP shy punk-rocker guy.

ground swell + lots of local wind swell = slammer-hammer surf

Wow. How weird E. There's a van parked around the courner from my house that says "BurningVan" on the side with flames painted along the bottom.

trippy e

typhoon in the land of the rising sun

drove away from the Wedge North this a.m., having decided not to embrace what I couldn't charge.

mmmm... cutting out early to sample some inner bar thumpers

of all days... im landlocked and not embracing what i cannot change that well. geez.

taxi?

i am not embracing this crap either..got a ride out at 5, puuushing it..

freedom isnt free, no theres a heafty fuckin fee..

that tiny thick east coast barrel reminds me of inside sloats yesterday

sorry, im never on the coast when theres good hollow swell..so i gotta make do with what i see..hence my lack of "action" surf shots...plus, if you wanna see that sh*t, get owl eyes put in your head...or read SUCKER mag.

seth.. your photos are rad. that second pic looks small and hollow. Top pic looks real fun.

thank god the surfpulse cam doesn't work on my computer!!! sweeet.

Army slogan. If you can't move it paint it. If its got a switchblade knife, salute it. Friend was surfing rincon when he bumped into a dolphin with his skeg. Dolphin saluted. I was too busy ripping to notice.

Is that a girl body surfing

will be embracing an electrician at my house in 20 minutes rather than charging -- I know the electrician will charge me -- a bundle.
so howzit lookin for a dawn session tomorrow -- will the next storm hold off until late morning? Blakestah? anybody?

surf pulse cam --
getting a little crowded at Sloat

gotta admire those animals for chargin with no wetties

looks like rain tonight..

will it be polluted by morning?

hmmm..

Fuck it, power thru the rain! South wind spots will be serving up ankle slappers....

DO IT!

See ya on the DP. It will be Friday by then, thank god!

thanks E..

those 3 pics are all of Hippy Beach..err, Its Beach, around the bend of the lane..

Frida Kahlo

surfing in the rain....shiny crystal ball says light winds manana and new swell hitting late morning, bring yer guns, its coming in 6.5-7 ft 20 sec 300 deg. South winds may be a problem later, maybe not.

Also, monday will not be a good time to be in the bu - lotta rain comin, mudslide potential

Anyone out at Sloat this morning? I got some cool pics of a couple people. What was the deal with that fire on the beach? Got out to put my camera away, there was one cop. Went out to surf, came back in, 3 cops some police dogs and a fire truck. Came back out for session dos around 2:30 and the parking lot had about 4 or 5 cop cars, and fire truck. While I was suiting up, I heard a huge bang. Was it a bomb? Anyway, suuuuuuurf! burned out.

Ian, I was there 9-11; didn't see anyone taking pix.

Don't know if the story on winter New England surfing has been posted yet. NYTimes charges after a 14 days, so today is the last day to read it.

http://travel2.nytimes.com/mem/travel/article-page.html?res=980CE3DC103BF937A35751C0A9639C8B63

A recent vacation brought me to scenic Lake Worth, Florida. My day in the warm water was spent with sad little waves and me body surfing next to someone on a softtop that surfs less than myself. But just being in the ocean is nice.

In the interim, my car got stolen and was recovered beat-up without the critical roof rack. So it's been donated. Any Oakland (weekend) surfers that want company across the bay bridge, please be advised that the motto on my family's crest is "gas, grass or ass" (with my preference being the first two, but hey, who am I to buck tradition?). I can be reached at andrewon44th at excite.

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