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Oh my.

Feathering, outer-bar gifts.
See a smooth, velvet peak flow toward you from the deep.
Paddle out to meet it.
Spin and start digging as the wave rises high.
Paddle paddle scratch scratch, get in over the ledge.
Hold on, try to balance, down the face, off the bottom.
See that view of the tapering wall, the conical womb, the slick concave dream.
Harness speed and turn off the bottom. Up into the lip. Carve off the top.
Speeeed.
Back down the face. Backhand pumping. Wave starts to mush.
Crank a turn into the meat of it. Roundhouse back into the whitewater.
Paddle back for more.

Offshore wind RULES!!!

Saw PaulB take off on some thick set waves. Niiice.
Saw Lerm snag a nice right.
Good to see Adam out there.

Surfboarding.

Niceness interview with Web

Aqua tsunami relief

A few photos from KT. Maybe a little point break in New Jersey?
niceness

niceness

niceness

niceness

niceness

Organic shot
crunch

Florida

Anyone thinking of heading out this morning, my advice to you:

Walk two blocks South of wherever you want to surf before you put in.

The conveyer belt is in force today. One big left and you are a block and a half to the North of where you started.

Saw lots of beatiful waves today, rode a couple, but it was very hard to be in position when they came. Most of the rides I saw were on waves breaking 5 blocks down the beach in either direction.

Did split a peak or two so its still out there.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 10, 2005 10:44 AM

excellent drops and gouges e! man those waves were fun. pb is the wave magnet. that guy got at least 25 waves. such a beautiful morning. good to be alive, healthy and able to surf every morning. man it was hard to come to work.

i spent the first 20 minutes battling the current. i saw a nice channel north of where the good waves were, and made it out with only 2 duck dives, but then i had to fight hard to get to the sweet spot.

Posted by: lerm at February 10, 2005 10:46 AM


Where?


Posted by: mexi at February 10, 2005 11:11 AM

Organic?


Where?


Where?

Posted by: Mexi at February 10, 2005 11:12 AM

awesome shots mexi. that top one is south africa? Capetown?

Posted by: e at February 10, 2005 11:17 AM

Took out da stick....L---O---N---G rides, swift current, lotsa water moving around. Caught two nice rights w/ plenty o'reforms. Had my wave of the morning lurch up and I was prepping to go left--then my concentration was split between the drop and the dude down the line. D'oh, bailed on that one. Still have that feeling of forward momentum in my gut. Can't get it out. Backside drops can be so intimidating. I loath kookin' out, knowing that the belly of the beast was waiting for me.
--Danke Motha' Nature.

I always wonder with these strong currents, the possibility of going for an unanticipated long ride. Anyone ever been sucked past Seal Rocks? What's the game plan if you find yourself in that situation? My pal once got sucked out at Taraval and he said he spent 4 or 5 hours paddling back to the beach.

Posted by: amigoism at February 10, 2005 11:20 AM

That web interview was a great read. Thanks E and Web for taking the time. Has me day dreaming in my cube.

Posted by: tucker at February 10, 2005 11:25 AM

surf now or after 4.
that is the question.

oi oi oi

Posted by: elias at February 10, 2005 11:29 AM

duh...
surf now and at 4.

Posted by: elias at February 10, 2005 11:32 AM

ahh yeah, gotta read the web interview now, he comes across as an interesting cat in his posts!

Posted by: j at February 10, 2005 11:33 AM

E- check your cranial email and give me a call.

Posted by: Bruce at February 10, 2005 11:40 AM

i've said it before buuuut....

WEB FOR PRESIDENT!!

Posted by: j at February 10, 2005 11:44 AM

Killer interview E... a nice read.


I'll be at that third pic next week, stoked!

Posted by: mexi at February 10, 2005 11:49 AM

Quote from surfline:

"I remember standing with some buddies in a parking lot in Ocean Beach, San Francisco on October 28th, 1999 gawking at the rows of whitewater to the Potato Patch. (And believe me, there were some perfect 80-foot a-frames out there.) Someone was listening to one of those little weather cube radio thingies that everyone used to have and the computerized voice coming from NOAA was sing-songing out the Northern Oregon buoys; when he got to like Point Arena or somewhere, the voice said "53 feet at 17 seconds" and the whole parking lot started hooting. At a little weather cube, sure, but we were also aware that something very special was happening that day. The ocean told us so. "


...that fucking bell! Some guy stole the fucking bell......

Posted by: Kaiser at February 10, 2005 11:51 AM

Amigoism - A couple years ago on a beginning season big swell in mid-September a 15ish year old kid broke his board and got sucked out past the Rock with the tail end of his stick. The tide pulled him into the bay and he landed at China Beach. He got a ride somehow back to OB. His buddies were looking for him and noticed the front half of his board in a trash can.

Posted by: Dennis at February 10, 2005 11:53 AM

wo rad story dennis...gotta read that interview..im out at 4 woo hoo

Posted by: bagel at February 10, 2005 11:58 AM

mexi,
africa
santa cruz
baja
?

Posted by: bagel at February 10, 2005 12:05 PM

excellent...

interview! web seems like a kewl, humble guy.

Posted by: lerm at February 10, 2005 12:13 PM

Did the crowded high-tide spot a little drive away again 9-11:30. Nice!! Early there were relatively few people, some sweet rights, and moderate offshores; later it got really crowded, the offshores increased, there seemed to be longer lulls, and it was offering mainly lefts--but some very fun ones. I don't miss fighting the OB currents, but I do miss the surfer-per-wave ratio.

Posted by: kloo at February 10, 2005 12:16 PM

Bagel

Yes .. no.. yes

Posted by: Mexi at February 10, 2005 12:41 PM

mid pic is Jeffry's..

Posted by: mexi at February 10, 2005 12:48 PM

mexi, the middle one is ob?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 10, 2005 12:48 PM

imakook

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 10, 2005 12:48 PM

Oct 28th, 1999

Big day in Bay Area tow-surfing.

Pete Mel scored the first super humongous Mavs tow-in wave that day, this one

surf now and at 4 - great call!

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2005 12:50 PM

great interview.
ill pass on the pirates.

web and ellen macarthur inspire me http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/main.jhtml?xml=/sport/2005/02/09/sobake00.xml

Posted by: pom at February 10, 2005 12:57 PM

Peter Mel is nuts...

Posted by: Mexi at February 10, 2005 01:06 PM

that mavs wave is but a wee little mushy thing.
New Jersey has the real Juice!

Posted by: at February 10, 2005 01:23 PM

Great interview! Really interesting stuff...

-- Matt

Posted by: mwsf at February 10, 2005 01:27 PM

I recall watching video of that day - Year of the Drag-In, I think. The tow-ins back then totally pale in comparison to what's going on now. They were just getting into it. Mel, on that wave, was WAY ahead of the curl. Today he'd be getting tubed on it.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2005 02:01 PM

E on his sick Uli getting totally shacked.



Posted by: at February 10, 2005 02:09 PM

ANYONE HEARD THIS?

I have heard from two seperate sources that Andy Irons and Shane Dorian were out in the middle surfing the last couple late afternoon sessions.

I don't remember seeing either of them yesterday, but there was one point where a guy commented on how deep some dude dropped and made it so maybe that was AI?!?

It was just me and BVB battling the winds to get in.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 10, 2005 02:22 PM

It was just me and BVB battling the winds to get in, this early afternoon. That is.

Fun but hard to get into at times. If you got into the right one you were in for a long fun ride. To make up for not surfing this evening, I did the morning/Lunch combo. I would definitely trade those two sessions for the later one, if I could.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 10, 2005 02:26 PM

BVB pic here......

http://i2.pbase.com/u41/chucklantz/large/39572529.IMG25942.jpg

Posted by: at February 10, 2005 02:32 PM

Yeah, that is the dude was drifting toward Taraval about an hour ago when I left him.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 10, 2005 02:40 PM

cool bvb photo.

Posted by: e at February 10, 2005 03:18 PM

This morning while suiting up for the surf I was trying to find the sweet spot (figured out afterwards that there was zero sweet spot out there today) I saw this one dude who was out with one other guy pull into 2 of the best rides, completely barreled and made it look downright simple. In early, speed to burn, complete cover up, kick out. Out of 5 wave sets that were fairly walled up he picked out the best ones, it was pretty sick. Could have def. been some Irons or Dorian cause nobody else was even catching waves.

Or they just surf all day everyday at OB.

Posted by: kookdom at February 10, 2005 03:28 PM

that would be crazy if AI and Dorian were surfing here. I doubt it.. but.. maybe.
AI

Posted by: e at February 10, 2005 03:53 PM

the pigdog is sometimes necessary

Posted by: e at February 10, 2005 03:56 PM

Got Baker good this morning. No one out. No bad vibes. Long rights and lefts.

Too bad the only pic of it i got was when it was closing out. Surf!

Posted by: Hb at February 10, 2005 03:57 PM

slates

ok... back to work for me.. people are probably scoring RIGHT NOW!!! arrgghgh!!

Posted by: e at February 10, 2005 03:57 PM

DOUBLE ARRGGGHHHH!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 10, 2005 04:02 PM

big baker is insanity, like sol mar in cabo but with cold water

Posted by: bbr at February 10, 2005 04:03 PM

shouldn't it be called "gloatness". Or san fran horn blowers club puts a questionable homo slant on it. Cool pics tho! And many a humble cool poster, but come on. Surfing internet ghouls.

Posted by: at February 10, 2005 04:15 PM

Holy cow... I didn't see Peter Mel in that pic you posted Blakestah until I looked really close. OMG. 53ft at 17... deeeaaamn.

Posted by: dano at February 10, 2005 04:16 PM

great interview, web and e. Sending it to my wife for inspiration. She used to want to live on a boat...

Posted by: robme at February 10, 2005 04:21 PM

gloatness.org. sorry man.. you never like my writing, or me. I know i suck. i try to express it. Just don't read the writing.

nice Robme.. Web is the man.

Posted by: e at February 10, 2005 04:34 PM

Posted by: at February 10, 2005 04:56 PM

Damn! that was a fun seshi...

Posted by: mexi at February 10, 2005 05:00 PM

Posted by: drums and tuba at February 10, 2005 05:02 PM

i just checked the surfpulse cam. damn it's crowded and good! i hate work! and e, stop gloating so much.

Posted by: lerm at February 10, 2005 05:06 PM

That AI rumor is crazy... I saw a guy who resembled AI killing it two night ago at Judah...
doesn't seem likely, I have to say... the guy was so fast, made an impossible section than cut straight up the face for a gnarly cutback.. great surfing no matter how you slice it.. nice night, too.

Posted by: bird at February 10, 2005 05:06 PM

Mexi, you are killing me! I need an arvo sesh....

AI rumor board - photo shoot around the Golden Gate with Shane Dorian.

If they were here, they likely surfed no? Very possible. Bobby Martinez was here last month. Surfed with him at Sloat one mid-afternoon.

Gooble, gooble, GLOAT....

Posted by: Kaiser at February 10, 2005 05:25 PM

i think i just saw AI on the surfpulse cam.

Posted by: rza at February 10, 2005 05:34 PM

i just called AI, he said he's in hawaii right now. he said to say hi to kaiser though, something about kaiser posting pics of his girl?

anybody just see that guy get the cover up on the surfpulse cam? i mean...not that i'm not working...but if i wasn't i would have just seen it...

Posted by: j at February 10, 2005 05:37 PM

i just saw AI on 6th and mission

Posted by: bbr at February 10, 2005 05:43 PM

I just saw Kelly Slater at the quiksilver.com site.

And yes, I saw that long ass cover up. 50 yards, maybe 75 yards.....

Posted by: Kaiser at February 10, 2005 05:52 PM

I am here in SF.
my girlfriend is hot.
I just nailed her, and her girlfriend, at the same time on the dunes overlooking the pillbox.
They are so into it.
DP on both!
oh, yeah, OB is good right now too.

Posted by: Andy I. at February 10, 2005 06:02 PM

I just bought some Quicksilver booties from Peter Mel's dad's shop.

Posted by: dano at February 10, 2005 06:07 PM

Posted by: shrapling at February 10, 2005 06:10 PM

BOX THIS.

Posted by: DICKEY MORA at February 10, 2005 07:04 PM

that was a great sesh. Right up to my last wave, well after dark, in which I punched through the back, broke my leash, and lost the Hickey to the night. Then, a long swim in and no board anywhere in sight....

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2005 07:17 PM

That sucks Blakestah, them Hickeys are hard to come bysure are nice...

Posted by: mexi at February 10, 2005 08:04 PM

i found the tip of a board around n0ri#ga i stuck it in the sand had a fish logo on it if i remember

Posted by: at February 10, 2005 08:28 PM

not that I don't like you, I don't know you. I don't even know if you suck. If you talk about pulling roundhouse cutbacks, I assume you are pretty good because real roundhouses are hard, only really pulled by good surfers. I do dissent to the commercialization of OB, vicariously because my local spots are mentioned here from time to time. I don't like it because I don't like crowded surfing scenes. This site is almost like one big portacrowd promoting surfing. But mostly I just like to get a few gloats because I am a little bitter that surfing has been taken over by lots of e's round the world, and just the act of talking about it on the net for all to hear seems egotistical and presumptious, as well as jeopardizing a good thing. At the least fodder for scorn from the scorners. Not in bad taste just another opinion that deserves to be heard.

Posted by: at February 10, 2005 08:40 PM

... and your point is?

Posted by: Spider Man at February 10, 2005 09:00 PM

Anon - I like fishing, skiing and traveling too - but I don't cry when people talk about their shared experiences of those acts and 'promote' the act of doing foresaid activities.

It was a busy night tonight, but I managed to find plenty of waves, never gave or received any silly stares and never once came close to dropping in or being dropped on. No complaints at all...

Instead of wasting your time posting here (we�ve heard it all before) why don�t you write into some surf magazines that are constantly promoting unknown spots, and only encouraging more and more people to enter and derive pleasure from the sport�see what they have to say to you.

Twat.

Posted by: ankors at February 10, 2005 09:10 PM

i like to have sex, and frankly i'm bummed that the explosion of magazines such as playboy, penthouse, etc. have led other males to go in search of hot chicks with which to fornicate. however, like you anon who complain about sites such as this one yet still read it, i still read these magazines.

my point? i don't have one either.

Posted by: j at February 10, 2005 10:44 PM

I have a point. That people from minnesota, ohio, new york, florida, pretty much anywhere in the u.s., see this site and decide that its pretty bitchen on the coast compared to where they are. Sure they can read surfermag and probably do, but the go to the net for a more authentic, organic, experience. And voila, their envy gets the best of them and they are here. Promoting that rather than keeping it hush hush is stupid, accelerating an ongoing process. Yeah surfing busy waves can be fun and cool, but if you found a really good source for nubile young girls, you would want your closest friends to know, but telling those midwesterners et al about it might be a mistake. You might end up with too many stirrers in the coffee. Oh this is san fran and thats cool, twat back. P.S. did you see my editorial in Surfer, entitled stop promoting OB you fools? And my name is anonopoli, so lay off on the anon stuff, its a cool moniker.

Posted by: anonopoli at February 11, 2005 08:22 AM

this site is making midwesterners want to move to san francisco? uh, that's only been going on in full force for about a hundred and fifty years. hello!, Manifest Destiny. oh, it's specifically making them want to surf? uh, surf media has been pretty huge for about 30 years it seems.

i'm so sick of this attitude: "the line is right here!" (draws arbitrary line right after their last foot step). we're all living on the same planet bro, the only choice is to be humble and try to find a way to get along. you don't have the exclusive rights to this ocean anymore than i do. this site is celebrating and sharing the stoke. it's community.

be like web.

Posted by: mk1201 at February 11, 2005 08:50 AM

A.I.and Shane were here Monday - Tuesday doing a photo shoot (Bucky Lasek too).They did not surf.
word

Posted by: fact at February 11, 2005 08:55 AM

I don't know, I'm born and bred here and am seriously thinking of doing the reverse migration to minnesota, ohio, new york, florida, pretty much anywhere in the u.s.

Surfing, especially NCAL sufing, has kind of, how do you say, fizzled out in the last 5-7 years. It's all about capturing a photo of some dance move on the wave. Now that all the heavies ride 80 foot barrels, me nearly dying on an average 15 foot day seems kind of pussy. So I've kind of reached the glass ceiling. I don't know.

Anyone into road biking?

Posted by: cletus at February 11, 2005 09:43 AM

I am not claiming the ocean as my own. I am not questioning the right for everyone to use the ocean, move here and get in the lineup. How bout I start a site that pumps up my break. Channel a few surfers to the santa barbara area, point out the excellent surfing options here, the cranking summer spots and the less known winter ways to waves. Would I pull in any scorners, haters and the like. I could show the midwest pictures of J?????, R?????, E??????, but then could I show my face in the lineup there? Dont think so. Some do expose it, but it a lowkey fashion that is a long way from claiming.
Claim away fools, its been done better and more radically than you. Surfer mag is not promoting OB, you are.
Community, world or local?
Come one come all to santa barbara, I will show you the waves and give you a tour. Preferably full carloads, it save gas.

Posted by: at February 11, 2005 10:06 AM

I saw the fish logo board. Not mine. The hickey wouldn't break like that anyway. Built to last...or to lose...

Posted by: blakestah at February 11, 2005 10:08 AM

If you made the paddle out mid-beach today, you can claim what you want. Took me 30 minutes.

I would wager that not many people return to the beach for there 2nd surf session ever if that was their introduction.

Everything is exploited! Get used to it. The reason it is not so crowded up here in comparion to SB, SoCal, etc. is that our waves have big balls! Big hairy balls. It ain't easy to surf the beach. We should be thankful for that.

Posted by: Kaiser at February 11, 2005 10:21 AM

eeekkkk. this again. barf.

kaiser, i thought waves had corners and where squares and triangles, not hairy balls? of course this is ess eff.......

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 11, 2005 10:44 AM
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