E's Surf Report

hi, my name is j*. i'm a libra and enjoy long walks on the beach, smelling flowers, petting puppies behind the ears....AAAAAAAAAND FRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDAAAAYSS!!!!!!

*name changed to protect the guilty

heres a true life story -

yesterday I went out surfing after being sick with the flu for a week. So I am tired and weak but want to get back into the flow.

As I suit up I see a group of kids in the water and I am thinking looks like the summer time, warm and fun. As I get closer to the group I realize its four latina girls one of who is screaming and being they are being pulled out to sea. So I get on my board and fish them all out telling them to hold onto my board. While I am bringing these girls in one of their friends who tried to save them is going out to sea to. NONE of them have wetsuits, Brilliant. SO I fetch her as well. As I bring them all in there male "friend" gives me a strange look. I think I insulted his machismo.

OB is not a joke

ironically its after I pulled them out i see coast guard helicopters practicing saving people.

e nice to see you out there. also good to meet lerm. i saw both of those last waves you mention - schweet! there were a few nuggets here & there for the patient.

Had whole lotsa fun last night. I got into the water around 4:30 and sat on the outside waiting for the bigger sets. Caught 7 really nice waves in 1.5 hours and an 8th wave that just closed out on me. One wave feature a drop in. I politely scourned the intruder as I paddled back out. He failed to apologize but that was the last I saw of him.

Best wave was a couple feet overhead right. I took off on the left side of the peak and found a really fun racey wall. The it began to section in front of me. I pulled in hoping it would barrel but it just engulfed me. I was buried for about three of four seconds in a big ball of whitewater. It was all I could do to keep my board under my feet but I came out standing and back onto the face. The wave sectioned again. I pulled in harder and just dove through the back of it.

That felt good.

Raining piss here on Oahu, but at least it is Aloha Friday. Dreaming of that boat trip across the pacific? Better make sure you have a good two point navigational system installed!

So here's the deal. I need a weekday session so bad it fucking hurts. I'm in a extrememly commited role at my job right now. Should I blow out of here becuase I've kicked ass and deserve it? OR should I stay committed, play the face time game? The CEO as a session thrwarting tactic throws the classic, "If your around after my investor meeting let's grab lunch and catch up". It won't hurt me if I bail, but will recieve "good soldier" points if I stay.

Should I stay OR should I go?

To bad surfing is not like sex. I could just go into the bathroom and "rub one out" and be done with the urge.

Nice one E, on the room with a view.

that abberton wave looks pretty damn heavy

GO 3to5!

Skunk'd this a.m. Nothing. Nada, Rien. Bad placement, weird tide. Good day to go fishing or take an inner tube to the beach.

3to5, suck it up and stay....for a bit. Most likely the investor meeting will run late, so stay until lunch time then let his asst know you had to bail, were not sure how long he'd be tied up etc..

fun avro yesterday - slightly oh on the best sets - nice - definitely funky sloppy conditions but some good rides. . V. _. Dubs could have been called V. _. Dub-le up. respectable crowd for such a nice day. I'll be back out this avro as the weekend forecast sounds sucky.

3to5, word on the street is that the goods are going to fade today: wind, swell, etc. Winds supposed to be NW the next few days.

Yesterday low tide was steller compared to the shizz in the morning high tide.

I say: get after it!

Likewise, I say, bagus, nice picture.

hey bagel, can you link to your website? i have a friend looking to buy some art.

3to5, look at it this way. For six months of the year, you will have the urge but no way to do anything about it. Starting in about 3 weeks. So, blow out, get your jones in, and in a few weeks kiss the bosses ass with massive face time.

Avro here I come!

3to5 - i hear ya brother as i live the same routine. be a good soldier and then head out early afternoon to "run some errands" - at least that's what i plan on doing.

nice boat...

nice shot of Roca Bruja, E. I have anchored my boat just to the right of the rock. It takes about 1.5 hours sailboat time to get back to Ollies, where you can stay for long periods.Cant spend the night at Brujas.

cool web.. dude. i'm almost finished with the interview questions for you.. i'll send them over hopefully by end of day.

sweeet.

Curious. Why can't you spend the night at Roca Bruja? Law? Bandits? Tide covered beach??

As a dedicated boat racer and one who would spend every day on the water if I could, I can understand being taken by things aquatic. But those pass times are HOBBIES, not how a grown up person should define themselves. I think this wife's rant had more to do with desperation about her mate's inability to "grow up", put in the simplest terms. Surfing is a beautiful art and science and everyone who has mastered it to any degree must be profoundly touched by it. But again, its a HOBBY. If your every shirt and pair of shorts has to scream "look at me, Im a surfer" (or golfer or boatracer) you are going to eventually be the cartoon version of your best self .Fact is, if you get to be my age (55) and all you can talk about is that "perfect boat race in 1997, where nobody passed me all weekend", you are going to be a pretty pathetic dork. I got the sense that this woman still cares for this goof-ball, or instead of ranting, she would be packing her things. Lets be a little more circumspect, shall we?

Because you ran me over I have a broken leg...

http://www.nathanstapley.com

Check out this article in today's NYTimes on winter surfing in New England..
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/04/travel/escapes/04SURF.html?oref=login&8hpib

david choe

In 1990 I spent a few weeks at Bruja, some of craziest off shore winds ever, we lived on Rice and beans and shrimp we caught out of the estuary, good times.

Check ou this video a good friend of mine made, I did a lot of traveling with him when when we were young, he's done camera work for PBS and CNN... good stuff about the WTO...

http://houston.indymedia.org/news/2005/02/37126.php

Nice wave Blakestah! Sweet!

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/alt.surfing/browse_thread/thread/7245b7c853765bff

you cannot spend the night on a BOAT with any comfort. Bruja is not an anchorage. basically, you anchor off the rock or outside of it(where the pangas anchor) and the boat, and whoever is on it (wife, dog, etc) roll their guts out. So you bail at the end of the day and head back to ollies point (which is an anchorage) or one of the other anchorages.Then you cook your wife a really good dinner and kiss ass in general so you can do it again the next day. When ollies is too small, Bruja can be good. When ollies is big (which is not ever that big) bruja is probaly closing out. Although when ollies had waves, I would just stay there, so I am not exactly sure of the Ollies to Bruja wave size ratio.

Anyone down with DJ Spooky?

Son of a bitch, I'm tired!
Five sessions in the last 3 days.

Just got back from the last couple hours of outgoing tide today. Swell is really on the die, it may not be worth heading out for Arvo. But who Knows what the tide may do to some bar on the beach.

My session was long paddles, picking off the outside bombs on my Longboard. Best wave was a long fading right to go left. Right as I dropped in I cranked the board around and I could see the ledge forming down the line and I just bend myself into that advancing curl. Sweetness.

I'm ready for the non-surf weekend to come.

dj spooky rips.

friend #1, I'm right there with you man. I tore a muscle in my left shoulder, I'm sick, and just burned out. I'm glad the swell is dead, cuz it would be torture.

Mexi, thanks for posting the link to that video. My heart was racing the whole way through. Scary stuff. You guys remember the protest for the war in Iraq? That was really nuts too!

And if anyone is interested, the SF Indie Film Fest is going on. Peep it at

http://www.sfindie.com/indiefest05/schedule/

Oh yeah, and here's a revised itinerary for my trip. I took some travel savvy peoples advice and reduced the amount of places to stay longer in a few.

1. Golfo de Nicoya, Costa Rica: July 1-15
2. Costa del Balsamo, El Salvador: July 15-31
3. Lima, Peru: August 1-10
4. Santiago, Chile: August 10-31
5. Britain & Ireland: September 1-30
6. France: October 1-20
7. Europe: October 20-November 15
8. North Spain: November 15-30
9. Portugal: December 1-15
10. Barcelona, Spain: December 15-December 31
11. British Virgin Islands: Jan1-10
12. Morocco: January 10-25
13. Canary Islands, Spain: January 25-31
14. Gold Coast (Queensland), Australia: February 1-28
15. Taranaki, New Zealnad: March 1-15

are you fucking kidding me... lucky bastard

good job, Ian. You are going to right place at right time. What is the Costa del Balsamo?

Ian, Nice Itinerary, right times right places.

uhh...you're like, pretty much taking a year off or something, huh huh huh....

let me be the first to say DAAAAAYYYAAAAAAMMMMMMMMNNNNN dude, STOKED!

Congrats on your tube, E!

I was out 12:30 to 3:00 or so. Started off small and sparse, but as I drifted up-beach there was an hour or more that seemed bigger and more consistent, and then the on-shores came and it got really junky (sorry, arvoers---hope it shifts back!). I found one really fast, long right wall, and several other rides worth the price of admission. Towards the end, though, it was mainly speed-bumps, belly-rides, and the like.

I'm pretty much toast, myself. My advice to me is to drink heavily.

aa thanks for posting that..must update..

the party is over and the fog eel has taken control of the coastline..had some bad timing today..fun dumpy inside though

Ok, who started it...

naughty niceness

web, I don't understand your question, but the only answer I can think of is, it's just the nickname of the small coastline of El Salvador located around La Libertad. I'm really stoked on the trip, but it's basically putting a year of my (productive) life on hold, and putting me even farther back in debt. Oh well, rather spend it on this shit instead of some entertainment system, or a car or something. FRIDAY!

Ian, stoked on that trip! But one question - why are you going from Spain across the pond to the BVI and then back to Morocco?

Ian, production sucks. Take two years and screw the creditors! They don't really care anyway. Congrats to you.

Because, I really want to go to BVI, and I don't want to be in Morocco during that time, since everyone who surfs in Europe will be trying to score good waves with good weather, I'd rather wait until everyone is off winter-break, then go to morocco. I know, it seems retarded, but I don't care. It's the only good timing for those places.

im really happy my post is being sandwiched by those photos..especially the one on top..

bagel you are crazy!
how was the smurf?

thanks bagel.

For everyones' information, the photo of "abberton" is Koby Abberton during the great east-coast swell of July 2001. You might have heard of him through the ASP tour, however there is a few things the trashy surf mags purposely don't tell you.
This guy is a part of the "bra boys" gang at maroubra beach in sydney. They are a bunch of thugs who regulary beat up 12yr olds and attack non-locals on sight whether you are a surfer or not. They parade around like they own the place and will only try and fight you when they out number you (not hard because they only go outside in groups). And to add insult to injury, most of them are loud car-loving "westies".

Koby and the "bra boys" have been known to go down south from sydney and just about 'claim' any spot they choose to surf, telling anyone from long-time locals to young grommets where to go. These jerks even attempted to rename a low-key spot just because a bunch of gullable surf-journalists followed them around and filmed them surfing this spot! Next thing its on the cover of Tracks and ASL. They tried to rename it to "Ours".
Below is something which I overheard in another surfing forum (sums up my thoughts pretty well!)

'ours' is not 'theirs'. 'they' are dicks!

Luckily it looks like Koby and his brother are going to prison for being involved in a murder. Koby is charged for helping his brother (who did the killing) to hide the body. Lets hope it all goes well and those guys get sweet sweet justice/karma served to them.

ive got a cd full of a ton of the 'suicide girls.'

yay for downloading.

Ian, I have a really good travel agent who consolidates fares and gets awesome milage deals that work for on the spot traveling. My wife and I bought around the world tickets from her. They were cheap and they allowed us to reschedule flights days in advance from anywhere. She's also gotten me flights to some pretty hard to get to places, for cheap. Contact me and I'll give you her name and #...

Ian...

Would you mind sharing some of your travel research with me? Can you drop me an email?

Yeah, no problem man, leave your email and I'll shoot you a line!

Is it wrong to miss BVB?

Maybe later I'll post a ranting tweeker message and sign it Blakestah for old time's sake.

I've been censored!

Oops, no I havn't.

racks or shacks?
Kaiser, rather be sprayed in the face from an an anomoly in the tube at shipstern's bluff or be sprayed from natures perfection of a breastfeeding mother?
Pipeline's perfect assymetry or less perfect assymetry closer to home with your large but lopsided wife.
Being shacked or shacking up? Coming tomorrow, hedges or wedges?

share the wealth man!! hedges that are also wedges are the best