blah
life.
Old man; shattered hip, tracheotomy, constant pain.
Young daughter; budding sexuality, men leering, dad fearing.
Random dude; plagued by mediocrity, can't summon the confidence to excel.
Fat girl; Poetic sensibility, gentle disposition, ridiculed by all.
Wealthy wanker; slick car, nice house, trophy wife, not very nice to people.
Burrito shop lady; came from mexico, 3 kids, huge smile, loves music.
Gay surfer guy; fearful of outing himself amongst his surfer pals.
Depressed hottie; abused by her stepdad, can't trust men, feels low self-worth.
Exuberant kid; Enamored by the world, loves to play, loves his friends, loves life.
Set-in-his-ways-grand-dad; Everybody's a "commie." "The kids and their awful "rap" music!" Loves Reagan.
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steakum posted this:
From the Santa Cruz Sentinel this morning...
Surfer threatened while in water
A 36-year-old Santa Cruz man said surfers threatened to
kill him in the water off West Cliff Drive near San Jose
Road on Wednesday morning, Santa Cruz police said.
Other surfers told the man, who has been surfing in the
area for 20 years, that he was not local and that if he
caught a wave they would kill him, police said.
The surfer returned to shore and drove to the police
station to report the 9:45 a.m. incident.
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Richard Livsey sent me his write-up of the Kelly Slater Movie opening
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Michael Kew photo
Surfing is fun and all but are waves worth killing someone over? I don't even think they are worth fighting over. Maybe those guys should have been at work???
Posted by: sd riderAs Kdalle once said when I told him I left the water to get to work.
"This IS our Job"
Took a pass this AM, Local conditions were so nice would have made a good session even though swell was a bit too disorganized.
Three Argentine goals later, Walked out at Halftime to see Kdalle leaving the scene.
Three more goals as I straightened up the house, before heading off to my other job.
Posted by: friend #1E's description of yesterday matched my experience this am:
"Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle.
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive."
45 mins. Two rides. Cold water. Taped the Argies and watched all the goals when I got home b4 work......
Posted by: limevoodooLast night it glassed off for the first time in a long while. Good head high lumpy windswell too. Amazing night. Stayed out until i couldn't see anymore. Sober morning sesh, stoney evening sesh. Interesting to see the differences in your surfing, and how you think you are surfing. Both are killer!
Found out that a Sun Ra musician lives down the street in my new neighborhood. Can't wait to sneak a listen one night. Sure he/she has some good stories of Saturn and such.
Fun swelly weekend to you all!!
Posted by: HbFirst, the surf:
I did not go this AM.
I did go yesterday AM and thought the day before was better. Had sore ribs from the day before.
The day before yesterday was a lot of fun and I got stuck inside more than I would have liked.
Second, a minor tweak to what Ethan wrote at the start...just having fun with sterotypes is all:
Old man; slower, wrinklier, still feels like goosing his wife of 45 yrs.
Posted by: duncanYoung daughter; watches MTV and looks like most kids everywhere, dad absent long ago
Random dude; has some money in the bank but not enough to quit working, gets along fine with his sisters.
Fat girl; ridiculed by the thin, of which there ain't that many
Wealthy wanker; thinks he's not a wanker.
Burrito shop lady; fled war torn El Salvador years ago, still works 12 hours day at burrito joint, lives with 6 others in two bedroom flat, has mixed feelings about where she is in life
Gay surfer guy; his family can't believe he still surfs, "Isn't it about time you grew up?"
Depressed hottie; can't forget burying a brother who died while drunk driving a few years back
Exuberant kid; hasn't had the happiness crushed out of him because his folks don't have a TV
Set-in-his-ways-grand-dad; hates taking the pills that keep him alive, but thinks it is wrong to "kill oneself" (by not taking the meds)
duncan. i like your tweaks better than my originals.
nice on the wealthy wanker and the "gets along fine with his sisters."
ha!
HB.. i read this thick sun ra biography called "space is the place." pretty comprehensive tale of the life/music/philophy/eccentricity (i can't spell) of a jazz legend.
listening to Roland Kirk "Rip, Rig and Panic" right now.. pretty chill. a little too "strait-ahead" for my liking. but good work music. Roland Kirk was a friggin mastermind! I guess he had a few jams with Jimi Hendrix that aren't recorded.. would love to have witnessed that.
Posted by: ethis ones a classic e..kind of straight up, but more funk..
heres to a summery sf weekend.
is it bad that i want italy to beat us tomorrow?
Posted by: bajeli don't get that kew photo. the wave is breaking across that berm, coming into that gully and breaking again as a perfect a frame???? can that really happen?
i also don't get what kdalle said to friend 1. typically jobs are things we get paid for. and there's not many surfers from around here who make any kinda real money from surfing.
and i don't get anon local, who is a self-described old school, seventies era local, yet wastes his time finding andrew m on the internet. and has the capability, no less! cyber-crusty!
Posted by: steamwandYeah!! Looked like crap but offered up a few great rides amid the inside madness. A sweet, long right immediately on paddling out, then another. When nothing good had come by in a while, I decided to check out the outside and was instantly caught in a treadmill, going nowhere & understanding the "duckdive, duckdive, duckdive" posts. Paddling down the beach likely would have done it, but I didn't see anything worth working for out there. But the inside was getting absurdly churny. A couple of (exuberant young playful) guys joined me (set-in-his-ways random old wanker) at this point, hooting each other into the lurching peaks. Got a really fun wave in---speedy pumpy wall with another one setting up right where it played out. Yeah!!
Posted by: klooyo people...
be careful out there. just rolled into the office
after a late morning session. see and older dude
in the water catch a few nice waves. current pulls
dumpy throwing weirdness. shallow as all get out.
but nice. got sucked away from everyone around me
and did not fight it. got a few and then headed in.
as i was belly riding the foam in ...that older dude was on a backboard with sort of bluish tint. sffd everywhere.
Posted by: korewin4 guys had pulled him out of the water on the inside after he got popped somehow. wind knocked out? and took in a lot of water.
scary stuff. major props to the 4 surfers who pulled
this guy in. saved a life for sure.
korewin - gnarly story.
kloo - nice on the scorage!
A bit more work for me then i'm off to the asian art museum.
peace out.
Posted by: eLast day of school... Boarding a plane manana... Talk to ya'll in September!
Posted by: mexiAi caramba, so that's what the sirens were for. Poor guy.
CPR class June 24. Also the abbreviated CPR plus water rescue Aug 12 - great class, great deal, highly recommended:
http://www.surfpulse.com/2006/news/surfpulse_cpr_class_in_hmb_05281756.shtml
Happy for all these good session stories but ARRR out with a nasty cold/bug and missed the surf. ARR
Posted by: s.s. sharkbaitHuh - wondered what all the fire engines were about when I was coming back from the beach. Hope the guy was ok.
Some strange currents and reforms on the inside this morning...
Posted by: ankorsKdalle -
Posted by: JackThanks for hosting the jam last night. It was just what I needed, really enjoyable. Great people and music. Thanks again.
Like it or not, for most of us, the one thing you have to do in life is "your Job."
I think that is what Kdalle meant when I said I had to get to work and then he said, "this IS our job."
Posted by: friend #1My daughter just turned two.
Posted by: webTwo years old. Already.
Happy birthday.
I love you.
wind picking up outside my window...uncool...totally skunked arvo yesterday..ob was despicable and first time i have seen windsurfers at ********. based on what i see now it looks like i am reduced to weekend warrior status...have good weeekends all, see ya in the water.
Posted by: vonsSCHOOOOOOOOLS OUT FOR SUMMER!!!!!!!!
HOOOORAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!
wish I was still a kid sometimes. my boy is STOKED!
Posted by: KIXDaily Dale Webster's surf rack: Be true!
Posted by: Kaiserauthentic.
Posted by: KIXThat Kew photo is so sick. I could stare at that all day wondering how that's possible. While I was in OZ my friend showed me a photo of a PERFECT barreling A-Frame with two guys on it in a river about 1/4 mile up from the beach.
Blah on the conditions today, but who cares. The sun was out and I still have about a week of reserve stoke from the other night. Kloo, I may have been out next to you this morning. What kind of board were you on? Were you middle of the beach in the pack of about 8 guys? Was a guy rocking a helmet?
Saw the fire engines pass by me as I was changing out of my wetsuit. Their surf rescue truck is insane.
Also, anyone interested in learning to operate a PWC for the assitance of swift water rescue, or learn towing-in, this is the class. My friend JC is one of the instructors and has been working with Shawn for a couple years now. I took the course about 4 years ago and if anyone is serious about being out there on a PWC, this is a must. The price is pretty steep, but if you got the skrill, you should do it. Anyway, here's the link:
http://www.surfpulse.com/2006/news/open_water_boat_rescue_class_05281807.shtml
Here's to Daily Dale for keeping it real. And to the dead squirrel I found in front of my yard with it's three friends or family gathered around it mourning.
Posted by: ianuhhh, sorry.. I didn't mean you will learn to tow-in. They don't teach that in the class.
They teach the essentials of water-rescue and water-safety which you need to know before you learn to tow-in.
sorry.
Posted by: ianian, i was mostly by myself on the inside mid-beach from 9 to 10:30, except two guys were right next to me at the end. i was on a 6'2" clear sorta-fish board.
Posted by: klooI'm the lame guy who's reading the internet friday night. Oh well I'm picking my domestic partner up at the airport in about an hour and a half so I got sort of an excuse. I completely missed the apparently intermittantly good surf this week so y'all who were out there should thank me, one less kook fucking up the shoulder of your wave or whatever.
Love that m. kew photo, reminds me of a place in central america i surfed once, but it wasn't big enough or the tides weren't right to wash into the lagoon. i totally buy that pic though. come one, seriously why would anyone bother to photoshop something like that, and if someone did, props to the skill and creativity.
Richard livesey seems pretty hard core about his website. his slater movie thing failed to elucidate the qualities of the movie. what the fuck. i've surfed rockaway, and though i am far from a wave snob i can understand slate's hesitation. he was being nice when he said he might surf it in the future i am certain.
for some stupid reason I found myself reading Richard's terms of service. I hope the occasional onion or bit of flap that turns up here doesn't get you in trouble for linking. maybe you should look into terms of service here. then you could sue people if they failed to observe them? on second thought, i guess there are unspoken terms of service for e's surf report and it would probably not be worth actually writing them down. scratch that idea, i like your terms of service just the way they are. (no worries about the log in stuff, frankly not sure what it really does, other than create a pain filter for random idiots)
(like me, har). anyway, i've been passing time at work here for a long time, sometimes i write something, usually i don't. i don't think i know you or any of the regular posting folks. one of my surf friends used to try to be funny posting as "nectar of ambrosia". he's into metal, pretends to be against hippies and organic salads. S if you read this, we need to get out more often these days. your daughter is amazing but you're going to be saddled with her for the rest of your life. skip breakfast when the winds are down. etc. (just kidding about your daughter i wish i had something that cool in my life).
ok enough. heres to the waves being good tomorrow morning and the peaks being many and spread out.
Posted by: eric dremember the wingnuts that came with the old aloha standard surf racks?
Posted by: 3to5setsof7At 16 you didn't know that if you put the wingnuts on the outside facing you (which of course made sense) the wind and vibration could/would turn the nit loose?
and in the case of my friends the racks and boards flew off the car southbound highway one.
why is it the shitty'est board always ended up with no or few minor dings?
Still at work now. Good luck to everyone finding some nuggets this weekend. I am pretty sure the water was 70 today. Summer.
Posted by: sd riderSurf and Pops.
A great combination.
Enjoy and RIP!!
Posted by: Bernie Spear