E's Surf Report: yes! err.. uggg.

"Oh my, look how glassy!"
"It's breaking pretty far out there."
"Sweet, look at that left!"
Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle.
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle.
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle.
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Duckdive, duckdive, duckdive, duckdive,
Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle.

Holy shit what the fuck!!!
fucking fuck fuck!!!
Fuck you ocean beach you fucking suck!!
See some guy get barrelled 3 rows of white-water ahead.
arghg!!

Finally make it out.
Ears now probably 90% closed instead of 85%.
argh!
whew.. quiet and beautiful on the outside.
smooth.
Cold-ass water.

Jerm gets antsy and takes off on a smaller one after the 30 minute marathon paddle.
Never see him again.
I get a warm-up left. big steep drop. kookily carve off the bottom. carve off the top. kick out.
80 duckdives to get back out.
fuck!

Even the little tiny wavelets issued smack-downs underwater while duckdiving. If there was even a hint of whitewater the wave would knock you back 20 feet and smack your head around.

Non-stop walls of whitewater. (though it looked small and easy from the dunes)

A large, shapely right cruises in for me.
Paddle into it and take off.
Long drop..
A few pumps down the line.
Big, slow cutback into the meat of the wave.
All the way back around.
Pivot and slot into the pocket.
A few more pumps. work the wave. slightly reposition my feet.
Faster, arcing turn at the end.
Niiice..

9-gazillion mother-fucking duckdives to get back out.
jeez.
Get another nice right.
Carve back around and do a weaksauce round-house cutback.
One of the first times i've ever completed a semi-legit one and then whipped it around and kept going.

40 duckdives later i'm not even close to making it back out.
Double-fisted middle fingers to OB.

Turn around and belly one in.
Get crushed in the shorepound.
Sand in the ears and elsewhere.
argh.

the three rides were worth it.. kinda.

peace.

----------------------

Thanks andrew and anon local for the lively debate yesterday.
Here are a few more photos of anon local's favorite surfer.

----------------------

niceness

nice pics. no offense anon local but my money is on andrew m for the surf-off. any takers?

i got my wetsuit drying on the roof of my car, hope the winds stay cool for an afternoon surf.

Posted by: vons

at June 15, 2006 10:01 AM

Ah the fickle nature of OB. Several blocks down I paddled out with dry hair. But, I have lived that story too, e. Too many times.

Beautiful and glassy. Less consistent than yesterday. Smaller. Still very fun, very clean. Only one other guy out with me. Go figure.

Stressing on the bluegrass jam tonight at my house. Fingers don't fail me! Still hoping for guitar and bass. Takers?

Sore back. Remind me not to go on the trampoline again.

Posted by: kdalle

at June 15, 2006 10:12 AM

wish i could have made it out this morning. sounds like fun.

does anyone know of a way to watch world cup on the i-net, even for a fee?

GO T&T!

Posted by: steamwand

at June 15, 2006 10:21 AM

or even just listen?

Nice sequences:

Posted by: MSG

at June 15, 2006 10:36 AM

Steamwand-

espn360 is supposed to be broadcasting for free all the knockout games after the first round. This from an article in the SF Gate.

Surface glassed off a little after sunrise. I guess I should have surfed but after three sessions the last two days, I opted for a Shower after seeing the lumpy dawn waves.

Ecuador looking like a contender this am.

Go Svenska!

Posted by: friend #1

at June 15, 2006 10:59 AM

"FREE FILTERS"
-------------------------

…that's where we saw the petrolicious® condition;
new fuel bending moirés into the gumdrop sunset,
even-cambered on the axes sway,
pulling shut another day…

information-disinformation got stuck in the spokes,
spread the devil-whirl particulates high into the view;
left us squinting, stuck in lazy ephemera —
opened the era of passing out free filters for that same gumdrop sun.

Posted by: Ancient Jetties

at June 15, 2006 11:01 AM

long time watcher, occasional poster. nice to see the old style blog sneaking back in yesterday.

the nytimes has a great world cup blog. no pictures or sound but running commentary throughout all the games. good for keeping track at work.

worldcup.blogs.nytimes.com

england wins 2-0, goals in the 83rd and 91st minute. the 1st was a beautiful goal! didn't see the 2nd.

Posted by: lights

at June 15, 2006 11:05 AM

Messed up shape on the NORTH END late morning. Some side-shore wind, but white-caps way out there. Nothing like the tough paddles where you were, E. A bunch of drops with not much afterwards. Still, three surfable days in a row--I'll take it!

Posted by: kloo

at June 15, 2006 11:09 AM

The second goal was also very nice. a shot from outside the box. Trinadad scored with uber style but it was then recalled for being offsides. Even though I picked England for my fantasy picks, I was rooting for Trinadad.

Anyone ever surfed in Trinadad?

Posted by: traut

at June 15, 2006 11:13 AM

Kdalle -
I'm totally up for the bluegrass jam --> Guitar. Only thing is I probably can't get to city until 8:15 to 8:30. Would that be too late??

This is cool since I can't go to Grass Valley this year, ...been going since '89 ...so I'll be missing the 3am jams with friends this weekend!

Let me know on the time tonight, then perhaps I can get your vitals so I can get directions there.

Jack

Posted by: Jack

at June 15, 2006 11:19 AM

Surf yesterday morning was better than yesterday moring.

But this moring, I didn't have the 'stuck inside for a set' issues I was having yesterday. Looked like it was getting better (less wind) as I left the water and headed for work.

Also, my ribs are a little tender this morning....when been a while since I've surfed, my ribs remind me I need more surfing to toughen them up.

Posted by: duncan

at June 15, 2006 11:26 AM

Oh, fuck you guys! What is all this surfing, duck diving, surfing shit?

I missed it yet again. Worst season on record and I now am missing days when the winds look like they are supposed to be shit.

I need a reset button. Someone, find me a reset button........

Posted by: Kaiser

at June 15, 2006 11:47 AM

The fish loves punchy, fat windswell. Got super fast lefts and rights and some held up on the low tide. Overall spectacular 3 hour session for the first time in awhile! Kook!

On the bluegrass shiz, can one of you throw out a name of a good novice 'grass guitar site? Been trying to learn that old mountain style.

Posted by: Hb

at June 15, 2006 11:56 AM

at June 15, 2006 11:59 AM

I finally had to bite the bullet and have an epidural injection for my chronic back woes. After suffering for three+ years, PT/Yoga; accupuncture; accupressure; massage; MSM; glucosamine/chondroitin; anti-inflammatories; narcotics; heat/cold; prayer & meditation were just not enough.
So Wednesday I let a doctor STICK A SIX-INCH NEEDLE INTO MY SPINE and pump me full of steroids !!!!!!!
I made sure to go surfing on Tuesday afternoon "just in case." It was small and kinda crappy, but more fun than it looked and I was ALONE. I got some decent rides and went home with a smile and an aching lumbar.
I should be back in the water in a few days, better than ever ... or so they say.

Posted by: Jimmie

at June 15, 2006 12:20 PM

what about those waves that rolled through the
LAND this morning at like 5.30 or so. holy shit.
i was half awake and thought i was on a boat.
felt the first wave come through and we go up
a bit then back down and then 2 more. nuts.

heard it was a 4.7. not a multiple quake vet
yet definitely odd for a n.c. kid.

Posted by: korewin

at June 15, 2006 12:36 PM

Jack-We're going from 7-10.
If you want to come send me email at: kdalle@sbcglobal.net and I'll RSVP with address etc.

at June 15, 2006 12:48 PM

Jimme-That sucks. Hang in there. I've had a ruptured disk for 10 years so I empathize. It can get better over time as the disks dehydrate from age and putless pressure on the nerves. Hope it works out well for you.

at June 15, 2006 12:51 PM

yo Hb...check your email and congrats on the house.

not a site but a band i would rec.
http://www.jackstraw.net/main.html

get in touch.

at June 15, 2006 01:29 PM

shred shredding shreddables

Posted by: e

at June 15, 2006 01:40 PM

i'm bored. someone fight or something.

andy m. rips. do you teach lessons, andy? we could go out to the north end where i surf on a fairly regular basis, often alone or with a few others with whom i have no hassels and sometimes even smiles. and i definitely fall in the tranny kook category and always will no matter where i surf, i guess, except the isle of palms pier, where i can claim local status, but would not really want to.

at June 15, 2006 02:56 PM

PUblic Service Announcement for those who live in the Sunset.

Traffic could be hectic on the way home:

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2006/06/15/MNG60JER7U4.DTL

at June 15, 2006 03:07 PM

Heheh, steamwand, the only lessons I give are Tabla lessons, so if you're interested in North Indian Classical percussion hit me up...
Surf! South End today and a pleasure indeed...I'm actually losing a bit of my Sierra Nevada belly from the last 3 days. Finally a bit of a wave count reverberating through my head. Thanks to everyone for listening to my diatribes yesterday. Hope I didn't go off too much.
shrack shracking shrackables

Posted by: andrew m

at June 15, 2006 03:31 PM

Posted by: sd rider

at June 15, 2006 06:52 PM

Tabla? doesn't that figure, no doubt of the Lookatmenow gharānā

Posted by: anon local

at June 15, 2006 07:05 PM

kdalle - thanks for the words of encouragement. I definitely will hang in there.
My lumbar region is slightly deformed from injury and abuse, with bulges, narrowings and tears. It hurts all the time, sometimes almost unbearably.
Yeah. I know: boo, fucking, hoo. Compared to some folks' suffering, my little backache ain't shit. Besides, I've got insurance and access to good care - so life goes on.
I'm hoping I've come around a corner with this epidural and will have a chance to get some good healing by continuing exercise, accupuncture, etc.
All you youngsters out there: take care of your spine. Seriously, listen to all those lame-ass warnings about bending your knees and getting help when you need to lift really heavy stuff - especially you little guys like me. Don't just testosterone through doing heavy physical shit when you're tired, in a hurry, or pissed off. Take it form an old kook who knows: you will regret it.
O.K., I'll shut up now and go curl up with my hot water bottle.

at June 15, 2006 09:35 PM

Hey E, the type key is tight with Safari.

andy M, throw me an email at three2fivesetsof7ATyahoo.COM
we'll see if we can connect the dots.

anon local is cracking me up.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7

at June 15, 2006 09:54 PM

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