« catching waves. | Main | fog pillows. »

Autumnal hues

Waves cometh.
Smooth A-frame peaks.
Carve some turns.
More hollowness would have been stellar... but...
Nice and mushy as it was.
Find the backdoor.
Seek the steepness.

Backside drop.
No pigdog.
Crouch low.
Muscle the bottom turn.
Look back up toward the lip.
Speed.
Rise up into the top of the wave.
Try to break the fins free.
Come back down with the closeout.
Ride it out.

A wedgy inside right approaches.
Spin and power-paddle into it.
Look down the line.. it could close-out.. but.. probably not.
Finally, a growling nug!
Paddle paddle paddle. get into the bitch.
Just as it's about to throw it lets you in.
Quick, quiet light-footed pounce to your feet.
Tuck up into the pocket.
Balanced high-line.
Fly down the slightly rumpled, glassy wall.
One high-velocity pump for positioning and acceleration.
The tantalizing "do-a-huge-maneuver-here!" closeout section approaches but some logger is paddling for it.. directly in your path.
Kick out the back to avoid him.

A big, oil-slick A-frame lumbers toward you.
You sprint paddle north, attempting to intercept its path.
The thing grows and rises, cresting and threatening.
You take a chance that it won't quite break yet and paddle-fade deeper and deeper into the pit.
All of a sudden the bottom drops out.
In one motion up to your feet and dropping in.
Long, speed-generating drop.
Smooth surface.
Long, drawn-out bottom turn on this mushy-but-large right.
The wave slows down, a fat, girthy shoulder... but you have buckets of speed.
Lay it all on the rail.
Thigh-quivering, full-rail cutback... back into the whitewater.
Ffflllluuuuuddddggge!!
niceness.

whack!

power bottom turn

possibilities

New Jersey represent!! (photo by Trevor Moran)
jersey nicenes


Awwwww shit, ya'll don't know who you fuckin' wit. First again!

Posted by: MSG at October 20, 2005 09:12 AM

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Huey and the five dolphins for this morning's stoke.

Posted by: blakestah at October 20, 2005 09:38 AM

first prework session in months... soooo much fun out there

Posted by: bbr at October 20, 2005 10:01 AM

-Stah, I called you a scumbag this morning, because I chose to clean up my daughters poopy pants (note: no diaper or pull-up was involved)over surfing.

One more note: Why ask Why?

"Halavais, a 20-year-old SURFING INSTRUCTOR who lives across the street from the Bodega Bay Surf Shack, was lying on her surfboard and paddling at about 10:30 a.m. when a SHARK ATTACKED from behind, grabbed her right leg and pulled her and the board underwater."

Posted by: friend #1 at October 20, 2005 10:01 AM

sounds like a good morning. missed those glassy waves, but did bail early from work and got a bunch of waves yesterday. a bit mushy but a lot of fun. reminded me of those no wind, summer south swells of years past. so many left lining up.

going to see these guys tonight at slim's.



gogol bordello

Posted by: lerm at October 20, 2005 10:10 AM

missed this morning too.. dagnabbit!!

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 10:12 AM

the worst part about surfing is missing it! I likewise missed out this morning.. but.. 8 sessions in the last 6 days has me comfy.

Posted by: e at October 20, 2005 10:21 AM

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 10:31 AM

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 10:31 AM

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 10:33 AM

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 10:34 AM

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 10:34 AM

friend #1, last night I spent some time in the ER tending to a little one's newly broken arm....I'll take poopie pants anytime.

Posted by: blakestah at October 20, 2005 10:44 AM

Yeah, I won't make that trade with you.

But I would trade both for what I saw last night and this morning on the Dogwalk.

Sorry to hear about the arm.

Posted by: friend #1 at October 20, 2005 10:48 AM

I would trade anything to get 3 little SF kids back.
my heart cries out.

Posted by: Kix at October 20, 2005 11:05 AM

A bit longboardy where I was, but still some pleasant rides. Saw the five dolphins on the inside about 9:45-ish.

Posted by: kloo at October 20, 2005 11:09 AM

blakestah - bummer about the little one's arm, I hope it was not a complicated break and that it heals up fast. The Anarchist went to Urgent Care this morning with a mashed up shoulder. I keep telling him water is softer than concrete, but he keeps on skatin' anyway!
Got some fun ones last night. First time in the water since we got back from major culture-vulturing in Rome and Florence - Jeeze, how many pictures of that chick and her kid did them guys draw!!!!!???????????

Posted by: Jimmie at October 20, 2005 11:10 AM

Rome is the shit, Caravaggio Rules!

Posted by: kookdom at October 20, 2005 11:14 AM

Feeling the afterglow...what a session last night 4-6:45pm. 5-ft and glassy, almond eyes, long rides, good people, mellow crowd. Surfed until dark.

Posted by: Monkey Milk at October 20, 2005 11:17 AM

Just to point out the obvious, my old local beachbreak has lived up to its infamy.

Salmon Creek, October, evening session. Risky combination.

All of the folks that have been enjoying early morning and late evening sessions lately just keep in mind what time of year it is.

It is Fall and this is the time when El Blanco Morte likes to enjoy breakfast and dinner.

...and not to sound redundant but dont surf alone.

Posted by: Francis at October 20, 2005 11:33 AM

Seeing as we've got a potential big one coming, I'm curious as to what size the beach can get to and hold. I realize that the way-out-there bars begin to break at a certain point. When that happens, are the normal outer-bars a giant reform of that? Is there a point at which the beach stops working? For instance, last March 9th, the BIG one... what did that do? It was too foggy in the AM to see and I drove south. Any thoughts?

Posted by: Walker at October 20, 2005 11:39 AM

Oh my Gawd!!! How can you guys still surf after that shark attack yesterday????!!!!????. YOU GUYS ARE CRAZZYYYY SURFERS!!!!!

Posted by: Total Newbie Wth Balls at October 20, 2005 11:40 AM

add me to the list of people who missed it. sounds like e got enough for a whole bunch of us.

anyone know the band rehearsing toward the north part of lower gh last night?

monkey milk - last night was butter-smooth, mmmm. great night to stay waaay out, but i bailed for the red vic. 'bicycle trip' is the greatest surf movie i've seen, but i fell asleep for part of the main feature, 'my eyes won't dry.'

bstah - i guess you got your (SUN) jones taken care of. i got one of those a couple weeks ago from a friend, but lately couldn't reach him to find out the source for you.

Posted by: outearly at October 20, 2005 11:41 AM

Walker- charge it you east coast pussy

Posted by: Chronkitus at October 20, 2005 11:41 AM

OK - thank you.

Posted by: Walker at October 20, 2005 11:43 AM

I didn't get my (SUN) jones taken care of...all that happened was lots of people who knew less about the stickers than I did started emailing me a lot. 1200 people a day read that page and not one of them had enough decency to answer a simple request....

Posted by: blakestah at October 20, 2005 11:44 AM

What the hell is a SUN sticker

Posted by: ?? at October 20, 2005 11:48 AM

If anyone has some time to kill tonight, swing on down to our show...

Posted by: Tait at October 20, 2005 11:53 AM

The stickers say SUN in the middle, and in small print on the bottom say "Outer Sunset District".

All the cool kids already have em.

Here's an example of the style, but not the sticker of which I speak.

Posted by: blakestah at October 20, 2005 11:55 AM

they're like KCLB stickers, but for trannys and logggers

Posted by: anon at October 20, 2005 11:59 AM

I love my single fin. I love my single fin on glassy waves. I love tequila. I love grappa. I love italian women--well, all women, really. I have eaten shark. Sharks prefer to feed during the day when visibility is good. Thus, the mid-morning attack yesterday. The water up that way has been really churned up since the storm last weekend. Yesterday, was probably the first day there was good visibility. Sweet sunset yesterday.

Posted by: amigoism at October 20, 2005 12:04 PM

nice one anon. so true about the stickers.

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 12:11 PM

Me pimping pictures



Posted by: Mexi at October 20, 2005 12:13 PM

Outer Sunset District

not that if friggen care but it should be OSD, yeah you know me.

Posted by: BARNEY TRANNY at October 20, 2005 12:14 PM

My favorite Posted by: Mexi at October 20, 2005 12:15 PM

cool photos mexi.. that last one looks fun as all hell.. mellow barrelling little pocket.

Posted by: e at October 20, 2005 12:25 PM

What's the Outer Ricmond District sticker say: RICH?

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 12:26 PM

mexi nice grain. are you shooting B&W these days or is that a little digi touch-up?


Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 20, 2005 12:36 PM

Hey- did anyone tell this walker guy that there is some mysto break slightly south of the beach. He can probably get some good ones there no?

There are a few spots along the coast that can HOLD a big swell right?? I mean excluding Bolinas of course. DOOH, sorry about the name dropping. I 'm a kook

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 12:48 PM

The richmond sticker should be in cyrillic.

Posted by: R3W at October 20, 2005 01:07 PM

All those claiming location stickers are so obnoxious.

Posted by: Bumper Sticker Hater at October 20, 2005 01:10 PM

You know what's even worse than all the claiming location bumper stickers? Are the university alumni vanity plates/stickers. Every time I see one from some prestigious university, or some dude wearing his Ivy League alma mater on his sweater, it makes me want to go and get some Devry, or Heald Business College shit and plaster them everywhere. I'm getting my Devry University bumper stickers any day now.

Posted by: MSG at October 20, 2005 01:16 PM

what passes for "community" in most places these days is a joke. fashion but no real substance. everyone clamouring for their stickers. where's the beef?

Posted by: Kix at October 20, 2005 01:19 PM

Thanks, I'm using Scala b&w slide film ISO 200 pushed to 1600, I love grain, Photoshop grain isn't the same.

Posted by: Mexi at October 20, 2005 01:26 PM

None of you no what core is about.

I bet you all ride Al Merrick boards and listen to Jack Johnson while drinking your soy latte.

Posted by: OSD KOOK at October 20, 2005 01:26 PM

the beef's still at wendy's

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 01:29 PM

dude, don't start dissing the soy lattes. soy lattes are cool. especially in the sunset (though they are a little hard to find out here).

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 01:31 PM

where is BVB when you need him? Kaiser can you fire a few up for the cube people.. Thanks

Posted by: sf at October 20, 2005 01:36 PM

I love soy lattes with some cinnamon on top.

Posted by: flap at October 20, 2005 01:37 PM

just claim your friggin cross street, bitches.

I claim JUDAH street for me and my two groms. Judah peak Locals!!!

I also part-time claim LinkHam, that would be the peak between Lincoln and Kirkham. (sometimes called "Kirkin").

OK, these two peaks are ours. No friggin gay bumperstickers, no Judah Peak Local Boys claims. JPLB.

Posted by: judahpeak at October 20, 2005 01:38 PM

Judahpeak- when is the rumble with the Rivera Gang?

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 01:40 PM

Nice pics Mexi- The last one has a real nice texture like it's printed on canvas.

Rincon from above damn- One day I'd love to fly the whole coast during a huge perfect swell in tiny plane or UL

Posted by: artifact at October 20, 2005 01:42 PM

IRV

Posted by: Q at October 20, 2005 01:43 PM

Don't mess with the 48th and Fulton crew. Damn!

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 01:46 PM

Apparently you're not a legitimate surfer if you have money and sophistication. Better quit you're office jobs, become a plumber, and trade in your Anchorsteam for PBR.

Oh, and you're only allowed to ride crappy boards made by some drunk Sunset Irishman and drink black Folgers.

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 01:52 PM

Anchorsteam is plenty blue collar.

Posted by: tucker at October 20, 2005 01:56 PM

Cabrillo st holmes's!

Posted by: bagel at October 20, 2005 01:57 PM

-Oh, and you're only allowed to ride crappy boards made by some drunk Sunset Irishman

..almost choked on my burrito

Posted by: bagel at October 20, 2005 01:59 PM

Bill Hickey doesn't drink at all.

Posted by: blakestah at October 20, 2005 02:07 PM

kaiser - should we go with SMC (san mateo county) for our stickers or just represent ausiello's or marvin gardens? hmm...

j drinks. this i know for sure.

Posted by: j at October 20, 2005 02:09 PM

He is German not Irish.

Posted by: Pimpin Noriega at October 20, 2005 02:12 PM

any chance this next swell will bring rideables to the beach by saturday??

Posted by: Pray for Surf at October 20, 2005 02:15 PM

Why the hate on Al Merrick? He pressed Ctl+Alt+Board and out popped my latest stick on the foamblank "printer." So soulful, shit's got Intel inside brah. Paddle out on that with a soy latte and straw hat and everyone knows you reprazent, like big time.

Posted by: Monkey Milk at October 20, 2005 02:19 PM

Schultze is half German half Mexican.

Hickey is Irish and lived in the Sunset for decades and decades.

Neither of them drinks. And no one who rides Hickey boards thinks they are crappy boards. You do get an automatic nod of approval from the Kelly's Cove Local Boys if you are on a Hickey.

----------------------------------------

However, no one apparently knows the origin of the (SUN) stickers that have been popping up all over...but everyone likes to rag on them, especially the people who've never seen them...WTF?

Posted by: blakestah at October 20, 2005 02:20 PM

Saturday will be flat.

Sunday afternoon will be over 20 ft at Mavericks and Ghost Trees with jetskis and helicopters everywhere.

Posted by: blakestah at October 20, 2005 02:21 PM

lighten up Francis

Posted by: at October 20, 2005 02:21 PM

here are some car decoration ideas for you niceness members:


Posted by: car without a bumpersticker is like a soy latte without cinnamon at October 20, 2005 02:22 PM

sigh.
..oh how I wish I could get a nod of approval
from a Kelly's Cove Local Boy.

Posted by: wistful dreamer at October 20, 2005 02:29 PM

Id like to have a crack at those KKLB's.

Posted by: Sgt. Hulka at October 20, 2005 02:30 PM

Posted by: Kaiser's Ghost at October 20, 2005 02:31 PM


Posted by: at October 20, 2005 02:31 PM

20 foot Ghost Trees ?

I will be there claiming Hunters Point all you OSD posers.

Posted by: Salt in your Soy Latte at October 20, 2005 02:37 PM

I saw a pink bumper sticker yesterday on the 101: "My bush makes love not war".

There was a guy driving the car...

Posted by: jessica simps at October 20, 2005 02:38 PM

this album kicks major ass!

Posted by: e at October 20, 2005 02:38 PM

I don't claim or pretend to charge at all. I suck at surfing. I just asked a question because I was curious about the limits of what the beach could handle - not because I have any intention of trying to surf when it's that big. I wasn't making any Mavs Charging Charger plans.

Posted by: Walker at October 20, 2005 02:42 PM

Ive always felt a bit awkward about having to drive my girlfriends car.

Now i know to be sure and check for bumpertickers next time

Posted by: Latte lover at October 20, 2005 02:43 PM

Where's my phone call?


Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2005 02:54 PM

Walker - I've seen wave faces approaching 50', may bigger, off the beach breaking in long fat barrels with offshore winds. Impossible to paddle out, not to mention insane. It was one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen.

Posted by: Dennis at October 20, 2005 02:58 PM

Your name shouldn't be where you rep either. That is so lame.

Posted by: Hb at October 20, 2005 03:02 PM

laurel heights cube farmers reprezent!!

Posted by: LHCF at October 20, 2005 03:16 PM

How's the wind out there?

Posted by: Wind Hater. at October 20, 2005 03:17 PM

Cant really see the waves from the beach so its hard to tell. Winds feel OK though.

Posted by: Walker at October 20, 2005 03:20 PM

Thanks Walker Texas Ranger.

Posted by: WH at October 20, 2005 03:23 PM

redwood city cube dwellers in the hooooooouse

Posted by: j at October 20, 2005 03:28 PM

Wetsand Weekend Prediction...

Sunday kind of reminds me of when i put all of my money into the stock market about 6 years ago. ...Wednesday would represent today.

Posted by: Tait at October 20, 2005 03:29 PM

Krissy Field should be thumping on monday.

"Ya'll best stay on the west side oh else."

Posted by: Marina Hardcore Locals at October 20, 2005 03:38 PM

hey,
ausiello's and marvins are in MY hood. so let's grab a pint!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 20, 2005 03:39 PM

Pints it is!

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2005 04:08 PM

All those HMB stickers started showing up around 1999-2001. Fuckers.

Posted by: bert at October 20, 2005 04:13 PM

Here it comes....
46002 10/20 2:50 pm 17.5ft 21.4sec

Fun week so far. Surfed Saturday morning in SF, thumpy & fun, hightailed it to L.A. Rincon was flat. Sunday surfing in front of Pierce Brosnan's house with the paparazzi copter overhead trying to get Jennifer's pic. July 4th style fireworks right off the beach that night for some kids party. Monday AM surfed just north of the county line, very smooth and shapely. Back up here for DP every day this week. Gonna be an interesting weekend.

Posted by: kdalle at October 20, 2005 04:20 PM

3to5, no shit, i live spitting distance from the two and kaiser is about a loogie hock away. we'll have to meet up one day (MG does pitchers, i can't recall if ausiellos does)

Posted by: j at October 20, 2005 04:51 PM

j, let's make it happen. i'm that close.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 20, 2005 05:11 PM

Got a head high wave the other day looked up at the wall as I was getting to my feet and it didn't look makable. I decided to go for it and put the rail into the face, duck a bit and hope. The board took off with me just riding along watching the lip trying to catch me. As my speed got going I started turning to the top, off real smooth and down to the bottom. Off the bottom smooth keeping speed up. Got a few more turns like that before the wave backed off and I kicked out. Such a good feeling to go for it and get rewarded not smacked.

Posted by: Me at October 20, 2005 06:44 PM

Miss you weirdos-- Sorry, excessive work. I understand there are big waves at a beach now and then. If this happens, please call my cell at O-dark-thirty and leave a message. I'm ready to take some shots before going to my executive acting job. Either that or you're stuck with shots from that disgusting place down south.

Posted by: Bruce at October 20, 2005 07:11 PM

my prediction is every surfer within 75 miles of the coast on sunday morning at 8:00 am will be either on their way to the beach or looking at the surf or suiting up or in the water. it's not this blog, it's not technology, it's not the prognosticators, it is the present. i always prefer crowds of new surfers over competant surfers. this has been true since forever among surfers. it will be very crowded either way.

Posted by: msurfer at October 20, 2005 07:20 PM

BIG SURF A COMIN

Posted by: Brian at October 20, 2005 08:12 PM

my prediction is that sex is fun, gas is expensive and true friends are indispensible. i could be wrong though.

3to5, hit me up, nitsuj@gmail.com.

Posted by: j at October 20, 2005 09:18 PM

Megan's magic stick.

Posted by: fishmonger at October 20, 2005 09:27 PM

Smithie, shulie, ron and the boys have returned from a hellacious trip to New Orleans.We sold alot of generators, bottled water, pepper spray, wax, and Budweiser. Of course we added money to the economy, one doller snapped into the local g-strings at a time! Hah! Surf was good, Wilma is a comin' and pushin' swell already. The Boys were boosting huge airs and generally turning heads. Saw ron get into it with some local welfare scum at the Dome, but after he beat him and his 7 kids down with a mini-mag, respect was given. Our complete domination of the diaster scene, local lineup and the strip clubs was apparent to everyone who was fortunate enough to have witnessed it. I feel blessed just to have been around those guys; my surfing, fighting and chick-scoring abilities are almost 100% better now. The brigade is back and buying a shack in the Aves, time for full-time domination. Paddle faster and avoid getting bitten bitches, keep your eyes peeled from Pt. A^%#@_ to P*@#*&^%E Pt. (and yes Ft. P^%@&!!!) The Brigade will be once again throwing heaps of buckets and pulling trucks full of broads, WELCOME BACK TO THE BRIGADE!

Posted by: johnnie at October 20, 2005 09:53 PM

A shack in the Avenues? C'mon Johnnie, wouldn't it save you guys a lot of time, energy and gas if you just rented something above the 'White Swallow" on Polk Street?

Posted by: Spiderman at October 20, 2005 10:49 PM

What kinda board is that? I cant make out the name.

Anyone seen those shark leashes that run an electrical current?

Posted by: Megan is a Gamer at October 21, 2005 07:42 AM

Yeah, it doesn't work. There is something MUCH MORE promising than that in the works right now. I'm looking forward to it when they have it fully developed.

Posted by: MSG at October 21, 2005 09:54 AM

hominid in a sheriff outfit?

Posted by: pronounced brow ridge at October 21, 2005 10:06 AM

I agree with you the way you view the issue. I remember Jack London once said everything positive has a negative side; everything negative has positive side. It is also interesting to see different viewpoints & learn useful things in the discussion.

Posted by: penis enlargement at October 26, 2005 05:52 PM

mortgage rates http://www.mortgagerates-x.com

Posted by: mortgage rates at October 29, 2005 06:44 PM

home equity loans http://www.homeequityloans-x.com

Posted by: home equity loans at October 29, 2005 06:53 PM

debt consolidation http://www.debtconsolidation-site.com

Posted by: debt consolidation at October 29, 2005 07:34 PM

home equity loan http://www.homeequityloan-x.com

Posted by: home equity loan at October 29, 2005 07:38 PM

I agree with you the way you view the issue. I remember Jack London once said everything positive has a negative side; It is also interesting to see different viewpoints & learn useful things in the discussion.

Posted by: penis size at November 1, 2005 04:00 PM
Post a comment

Thanks for signing in, . Now you can comment. (sign out)

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)


Remember me?