E's Surf Report

#1 chingadamadres!

check this dude's brow ridge

sharkbites don't seem that serious. people get f__ed up all the time in various accidents. hopefully this chick won't turn all beathany hamilton on us.

Yeah, Tony, they really are not a big deal. I actually only have three friends that have been bitten, and the worst that happened was one of them was cut clean if half. I don’t think he’ll be going “Bethany” on anyone, so don’t worry about that. Then one other guy only had, like, 150 staples (not stitches)and only a few tooth gouges on his leg bones, and then the other guy had less than 100 stitches. That was really no big deal. Of course his 3 year old daughter who was sitting on the beach when he came in gushing blood was a tad shook up, but I’m sure a little pep talk from mommy squared things away. Overall, no worries mate.

hey Tony, you might want to call up that poor womans family in SLO and tell them that sharks arent that serious:

An autopsy confirmed Wednesday what most had already suspected...The animal, which authorities estimate was between 15 and 18 feet long, stripped the flesh from her left thigh, severing the femoral artery...."The injuries this woman sustained were catastrophic and not survivable."

I believe that Fate and Fortune are in charge, the shark is just doing to whom and what it is destine to do.....

The impressive thing was the guy interviewed on the news. Said there were 3-4 people closest. All of them paddled full tilt at the shark, making noise, slapping the water, etc. Then they watched the board and girl disappear under water and felt horror. When she popped back up they rushed her in.

Nice shows of courage...I somehow have the impression I'd be real lucky if the people near me acted like that in a shark attack.

i said it once and i'll say it again..

THERE ARE NO SHARKS!!

THEY DO NOT EXIST!

But, just in case that isn't true, there is a giant shark net from seal rock to pedro point! whew!! thank god!

gnarly stories web.. holy moses. farkin' scaaaarry shit!!!

Lou Boren. kneelo. Spanish Bay. Monterey. 1982. my good friend, gave me rides when I was a grom. He could not resume his surfing after the attack due to most of his torso missing. that pretty much nicked any clothing line offers or tv interviews. or anything else for that matter.

Give those friends a Lowenbrau! Mine would wave bye-bye.

Well, I've got another shark bite story that happened in Oahu about 13-14 years ago on the west side of the island:

A friend of mine went out to a slightly sketch area of the west side called Ke'aus. It's a beach park, well known area, a lot of people surf it, but has a reputation for having sharks. Anyways, my friend calls me on the phone, sounding frantic, and tells me what happened that day. He was out with his buddy, bodyboarding, and there were only two other guys in the water, surfing. His buddy caught a wave in, and he was about to go too, when one of the surfers started paddling right for him with this bewildered, scared look in his eyes. My friend thought this dude was about to come up to him to start shit and fight, so he was ready to throw a punch as he got nearer. Then he saw this HUGE trail of red bloody water behind him, and his leg was a huge mess. The surfer paddling to him started yelling for help, and my friend panicked and decided to get the fuck outta there (yeah, he's a real American hero) and catch a wave in. On the beach, he saw that dude's friend paddle over and help him into the beach. When they got on the beach, my friend said that a huge chunk of the surfer's thigh was bitten off, and that you could see bone. The shark hit the major left decending aorta (if you guys don't know anatomy, this is the main artery that pumps blood to your lower extremities, if this is cut, you are FUCKED), and he was pumping blood all over the beach. The people on the beach ran to call the ambulance, and tied a tourney around his upper leg. It was no use -- my friend saw the guy's face turn blue in less than 5 minutes. He died right on the beach.

You know, after seeing some shit like that, I would stop surfing for good. This guy, on the other hand, came up here for the military, and surfed spots up past the bridge. He said that he saw sharks in the water too up there. That's hard core.

shit, brah, my uncle got shot by a nail gun to the head. died pretty fast.

Well Bstah, it'd be the 'only' time that I would actually be able to out-paddle you. I'd be the first one to the beach to call 911.

Seriously though, I think most surfers would come to help out.

my cousin get his legs blown off by a RPG in 'nam too, cuz.

Lowenbrau??? they still brew that shit?? i remember my dad used to drink Jax beer. anybody remember that?

Yeah Blakestah, good point. I saw that exact thing happen at a certain river mouth up north. The shark took the guy and board totally under about a longboard length from me.It happened really fast. I was absolutely terrified. When he popped back up a set immediately broke behind him and washed him into very shallow water, before I (or anyone else) really even moved. I will never know if I could have broken my grip of fear and responded if he had not been washed in over the sandbar with no help from us…hopefully I would have. The fear was just indescribable.

Hey, I was wondering what kind of stroke you all use for paddling. I know in swimming you should drag your fingertips, alternate breathe and all. Are there any technique tips for paddling?

I am opposed to shark attacks. There, I said it.

Even lamer as the tide's come in. But a couple of ride-like experiences.

Bring on the 30-footers! And the folding chairs!

At a local hermosa bar, a little southbay surf movie watchin' and this local lady was smokin'!

I prefer the technique that makes it appear that I am absent-mindedly paddling away from you, yet in reality I am snaking your position as the set approaches.

hb.. i heard that there is some kind of reggae night this weekend in hermosa??

yo kloo...

well put. i was thinking about grabbing
my stuff and heading to the beach sunday too.

stuff: chair, 6 pack, camera.

those buoys are going for a ride right now.

hey fellow cube dwellers/tech guys:

try googling FAILURE and hit I'm Feeling Lucky

see you in the water!

Its so nice to have a good mellow day like this morning. I have been itching to take the longboard for so long. Its soo much fun to walk the board and warp your toes around the nose. I don't care what people say about longboarding. It takes alot of skill to ride a right a longboard well....

today, morning glass beat morning wood.

out before any light was hitting the water, svelte buttery slivers peeling down the line, walling up here and there, supple lace splashing behind the pocket.

caught a bunch before i saw anyone else paddling out and caught more after, but i wasn't satisfied... didn't make sections the way i wanted to, didn't cut off the top on my backside like i wanted to... almost time to bail, or i'll end up riding the N to work in a dripping wetsuit.

a long lull, nothing consistent coming through from the outside. i sit patiently for a walled-up right. i want to milk my frontside. go for a couple, too small or they crumble around me. paddle back into position.

a soft line suddenly starts jacking up, but the frothy shoulder looks like it's going to clip me, i turn and paddle anyway.

up.

out of the crashing lip and into the pocket.

down the wave, then stall. lip catches up with me, almost leaves me behind. cut back and down, then stare down the lip and drive off the bottom, really bending, really feeling it in my legs. off the top, down again, wave's coming to a close. up the face quickly and just as fast back down, a little shoulder-high wall about to close in front of me. crouch, keep focused. cover-up, or more like shower-up--but what counts is that all those times i didn't react in the right way, all those times a section just closed, all those times i told myself to do things differently next time, here's that next time. everything comes together.

i'm all the way inside, at the beach. i tear off my leash, grab my board and realize i'm shaking. i'm crying--or dry crying as the case may be--because i'm so fucking happy. the emotion sharply focused, eminently present. everything comes together.

--

bstah - i'll have the (SUN) info today.

E, dont know if you remember him, but we surfed with that ranger guy recently.

Longboarding's cool 'till you get hit by a great white, torn in two, with blood spurting out of your exposed vessels. Especially fun post session when you're confined to a wheelchair for life, peeing and shitting in a little bag.

Yeah, longboardings real fun.

Well said kloo. Standing on the board as the warbly wavestuff petered out reminded me of something, but what? I can almost think of the phrase but can't quite remember.

Tasty pea soup fog for brunch today. Also nicely hides the fact that you're sitting in the same farking hole for over an hour.

Has anyone seen a shark at OB lately? I know there were a couple spottings this summer, but I have not heard anything.

What does going Bethany mean? She got her f'n arm bitten off. That is a big deal. Besides how does she paddle, doesn't she keep going around in a circle :)

I bet that girl that got bit was riding a shortboard....

Whoa dudes, are you saying that long boarders are more prone to shark attacks than short stix? Shit, I still plan on learning to trip the waves once I get out to Frisco but I was going to learn on a longboard. THATS WHAT EVERYONES BEEN TELLING ME - - NOW YOU'RE TELLING ME THIS!!!! DAMn dudes

i will give a beat down to anyone that makes fun of my accent in the HH2200

I saw a crazy Hawaiian pull a 350 lb tiger out of Keaus last December. It outweighed him by 200 lbs. All he had was a mask/snorkel, fins and a "bang stick". He swam it to shore and kept it on the hood of his truck for most of the day.

cool sculpture

say no to sharks and yes to hotties!!

We ain't alone out there, if you can't deal with that fact stay out of the water.

A buddy's (Roman Nelson) awesome pic from Baja

Just LOL + spit a bit of oatmeal onto my computer reading "Hominid?"'s post. Big shark bitten board and he's scoping out the furrowed Neanderthalensis brow. Anthropological detective work is now in process....
;^)

LESS SHARK STUFF!!! more bikinis!

Igor Stravinski Rite of Spring is pretty epic...
"The Rite of Spring is a series of episodes depicting the wild pagan nature of the Spring: "...the wise elders are seated in a circle and are observing the dance before death of the girl whom they are offering as a sacrifice to the god of Spring in order to gain his benevolence," says Stravinsky, of the imagery that prompted the genesis of the work."

meant Stravinsky... sorry.

arent killer whales the new sharks? i agree with Money Milk..nice one hominid

hb
she wasn't the only one

the black and pink is for you e

"if you eat shark, shark eat you"

bagel.. i met your coworker this morning at jamba juice. Anna? programmer chick. she was wearing the double fine sweatshirt and i busted her. She had space invader earings on. pretty cool girl.

And im way more concerned about that loon that threw her kids off the pier anyway. Shit. Saw the shark attack girl on tv last night and she seemed cool, said she grabbed onto the shark and it was all "slimy". And whats with all the young surfer girls getting attacked? influx of female surfers? Or gods way of punishing the evil female race? (kidding lady's!)

"It would be like a locomotive with a mouth full of butcher knives."

ya shes a cool russian girl. she told me she ran into my frined ethan and i thought it random..sweet..

god i love google. not so fond of the landlord, though.

abstractly, you could think of shark attacks like serial killings. the odds, i mean. but i've also always figured that shortboarders and spongers look more like lunch than loggers do. or that if you're on a longboard then you're only going to be attacked by a shark big enough to take down a 10' seal.

i've no idea why this makes me feel better. does that rationale put anyone else at ease? happy weekend.

i'd feel more at ease by that rationale if i rode a longboard. but. i don't.

shiiiiit!

I actually asked Ralph Collier that question some time ago, I sure feel safer on my Log than my shortboard. I think he's studying the SharkCamo and similar patterns too.

"Unfortunately, we do not have a large enough sampling of board lengths to draw any conclusions at this particular time. However, board length is something that is being studied at present"

i'm definitely not going to scrawl "barbera" on the bottom of my board now, though.

So is the woman dead?
Mr. Insensitive you need time in the penalty box for your lame shark comments...
Work takes me all over the place - last weeks tech assist jobber had me posted at Ke'e Beach - north shore Kauai. I saw Bethany out surfing Chunnels... wow... she has to be given credit, not Jesus credit but watching her paddle, drop in and handle the curl was pretty freaking impressive.
Sitting at the lagoon all day long with my crazy Dunlop Japan workmates I spied all kinds of sharks - large and small cruising the lagoon...
Are we to fear them? One friend, now defriended, used to cry shark all the tiime. He did it twice at Jalama; the entire group of surfers within a 50 yeard radius came in and none of us ever saw anything. Same guy does the same lame shit out here - always claiming shark...kook.
The wife is heading out of town with the kid any suggestions for stripper services?

won't be long

riding in the whitey free zone

yo Jack masters
looks like you opught to head down to hermosa

$30 bucks and a kooky decal may save your life:

August 16, 2005 - Sharkcamo, a vinyl decal the inventor claims can prevent
shark attacks on surfers, has recently completed testing at Seal Island,
South Africa.

I've never heard of a shark attacking a zebra so I'm definitely getting one.

I've yelled shark twice, pretty embarrassing. One time it was a dolphin. Correct me if I'm wrong but it didn't seem like there any dolphins out here in the early 90's, now they are pretty common.

I agree Mexi. I recall the dolphins showing up in the El Nino years. Either my central nervous system is filing or the water has been much warmer ever since. I'm sure Blakestah will get the facts but my recollection is that the water temps in the 70s and 80s were colder which might explain why they weren't here.

Sunday...Sunday...Sunday...

There is a 15 year cycle of warming ocean temps followed by a 15 year cycle of cooling temps. We are in the warming mode since I think 1992. Could be wrong about the date.

No, not a HOMINOID my good man!
Thats Brit Horn, lifeguard legend. The most humble guy you'll ever surf with North of The Gate. (Ever hear of equally legendary relative Kit Horn?)
Read on about a little 400yard swim in 15 foot surf...
"On Jan 19, 2005 at approximately 5:30 PM the Sonoma County Sheriff's Helicopter, "Henry-1" was dispatched to a water rescue just North of Bodega Bay. While enroute, the helicopter crew learned that a surfer was in distress about four-hundred yards off-shore.

The ocean was fairly rough with strong swells and waves cresting at fifteen feet. The surfer, 21-year-old Ryan Ramey of Rohnert Park, CA had entered the water with a friend in an attempt to catch a wave. Unfortunately, the rip current was too strong and the surfers found themselves being pulled out to sea through the large surf. Ramey's surfing partner was able to get out of the rip and swim to shore, but Ramey was not. He became tired, then cold and was in trouble.

Veteran State Parks lifeguard Brit Horn swam out to Ramey and stayed with him until Henry-1 arrived.

The crew of Henry-1 rigged the helicopter for a 100-foot long line rescue, then Pilot Paul Bradley flew the helicopter with Paramedic Chris Gossner attached to the end of the 100-foot rope. The pilot placed Gossner into the ocean next to the surfer where Gossner secured him in a "horse collar" rescue device. The pilot then flew both Gossner and the surfer back to the beach while the two were suspended from the helicopter on the rope."

seems this Mear fellow gets his color palette directly from the Safeway bulk gummy bear bin

Our October water temps are significantly below the long-term average, including the 80s. Its dern cold, for here. The local water temps are more a result of local winds than any spatially broader phenomena.

Why the dolphins? I dunno. Must be something going on. Saw one take a wave this morning, and two other dolphins dropped in on his. The first dolphin got all huffy about it too, nearly started something.

I saw recently on a documentary that whitey attacks went up when shortboards became common.
However, I wonder if it was more that westuits became common, and better at keeping us in the water for longer.
More people in the water, for longer, has to increase the odds of people getting hit.

As to paddling technique, I read Slater's autobiography a while back (well worth a read) and he said he was told way back when to stroke with his hands coming inward and below his board. Once he started doing that he was better able to handle the paddle out at bigger spots. His descriptions of his innate fear of big waves for a long long time make the book worthy of time alone, he's more mortal than he's given credit for.
I started paddling this way and noticed a slight increase in speed.

e! I moved to Lost Angeles 2 years ago. The niceness crew has kept me in touch with NorCal vibrations. Big props to you for keeping this blog strong.

I see The Tooth returneth to the beaches up there, however, the predatory vibe on this site is a newer thing, belying the niceness edict.

B'Stah...what is the angle of swell? Tooth is not an issue down here, but swell certainly is.

All I know is that when I see dolphins I stop worrying about sharks. I've heard that the two don't get along very well, so if the dolphins are frolicking about then I can too.

Wildlife trapper slays dog-killing deer in Orinda
http://www.mercurynews.com/mld/mercurynews/12963791.htm

random question - anybody know anything about (from personal experience)/use virgin coconut oil (VCO)?

Our young shark attack victim claimed a "sharky feeling" prior to the attack. She's not the first shark attack victim I've heard say this. And we've all felt spooky vibes in the water. Combine this with discussions I've had with shark researchers ("if you've spent any significant time in the water north of Monterey, you've been checked out") and Coast Guard helicopter pilots ("we see sharks near and around surfers quite often"), you start to wonder if sharks emit some kind of electromagnetic field that we can pick up.

Maybe I'll be acting on that vibe the next time and actually get out of the water -

I heard that sharks can smell fear...
seriously though, I know that they can detect the electric field of nervous systems in their vacinity, but I've never heard of them emitting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampullae_of_Lorenzini

While Great Whites have been responsible for occasional fatalities in humans, they typically do not target humans as prey. Many incidents seem to be caused by the animals "test-biting" out of curiosity. Great white sharks are known to perform test-biting with buoys, flotsam, and other unfamiliar objects as well, grabbing a human or a surfboard with their mouth (their only tactile organ) in order to determine what kind of object it might be.
Other incidents seem to be cases of mistaken identity, in which a shark ambushes a bather or surfer, usually from below, believing the silhouette it sees on the surface is a seal.
Humans, in any case, aren't good for Great White sharks to eat, because the sharks' digestion is too slow to cope with the human body's high ratio of bone to muscle and fat. Accordingly, in nearly all recorded attacks, Great Whites have broken off contact after the first bite. Fatalities are caused by loss of blood from the initial injury. Most attacks also occur in waters with low visibility, or in other cases in which the shark's senses are impaired.
Biologist Douglas Long writes that the Great White's "role as a menace is exaggerated; more people are killed in the U.S. each year by dogs than have been killed by white sharks in the last 100 years."[1]
Many "shark repellents" have been tested, some using smell, others using protective clothing, but to date the most effective is an electronic beacon worn by the diver/surfer that emits a high frequency signal disturbing to the shark's electromagnetic sensors.

WTF are you talking about? I always get the sharky vibe whenever i'm out there.

Steve, good point. Never thought of that. But I have never seen dolphins or fins in the water yet, so, knock on wood.

R3W, lol.

Jack Masters, www.sfredbook.com.

There is something being developed that looks really promising in preventing shark attacks. Much better than the camo crap, or the EM field generating devices.

WTF are you talking about? I always get the sharky vibe whenever i'm out there.

Steve, good point. Never thought of that. But I have never seen dolphins or fins in the water yet, so, knock on wood.

R3W, lol.

Jack Masters, www.sfredbook.com.

There is something being developed that looks really promising in preventing shark attacks. Much better than the camo crap, or the EM field generating devices.

I'll second b-stah's comments about the surfers that came to Megan's aid. According to Royce who was surfing a several peaks north, Megan went under water for several seconds (which is a damn long-time). She came popping up and immediately grabbed ahold of the shark's tail, which made it difficult for the shark, and it was apparently horse-shoeing trying to get at her but was unsuccessful. I guess there was a lot of dramatic thrashing around. In the meantime several guys were racing straight over to her making a ruckus (sp?). Shark bolted and they went in.
I only hope I would act that way witnessing something like this. Amazing shit.

BTW - they were pretty far north of Boardwalk near Muscle point. Which is quite near Bodega Head.... a very sharky spot.

I keep an electro-magnetic anti-defribulation diode harmonic dual stage capacitor in the key pocket of my leash. I have never been attacked by a shark.

All those analogies when it come to sharks are so funny. Every article always seems to throw some comparison to a common general population land based activity.

"more people are killed in the U.S. each year by dogs than have been killed by white sharks in the last 100 years."

Yeah, white sharks make great pets.

Just to clarify Salmon Creek, and the WHOLE north coast are VERY sharky.

Sightings are COMMON along that coast.

Mad props to the tight local crew, just shows how tight knit everyone still is up there compare to all the self center whining bitches down here.

Having seen more than my fair share of Great Whitey surfing up there, its refreshing to hear that in spite of the brutal elements and risk, there are people who will still come to your aid when the worst happens.

Whatever happened to Pedro the GW that used to cruise pedro point?

Oh, i hope i didnt make anyone selfconcious about surfing lindy :)

Linda Mar, Wednesday AM

http://img306.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img03845qt.jpg

http://img306.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3828ur.jpg

THIS IS A PSA:

Please refrain from naming surf spots.
Otherwise, i'll start crying.

no guitars??

Anywhere i can see a bigger version of that shark map? ...one that you can actually read the info on?

"Sharkbites don't seem that serious" -- tony

it's fryday in rocktober! swell's on the rise. some sunshine on tap. have a rocking, stony, surfy and sexy weekend niceness.

Hey Blakestah- What were the buoys last year's big Wed March 9th- when the swell peaked?

Lessee....4.6 m 20 sec.....thats 15 ft 20 sec....

This one will be bigger. But a steeper angle - favorable for full length of reef rides. Wind forecast is still light and variable. Wax em up!

hERE IS THE EMAIL FROM THE GUY WHO'S CLAIMING AND SPRAYING GUAM ALL OVER THE GREAT HIGH WAY AND KELLYS.
RADSHAPES@YAHOO.COM
THIS GUY CLAIMS HE'S A PRO SHIT!!OR SOMETHING?
WELL GO BACK TO YOUR TOWN BRO IS ALL ABOUT SF.
HE'S TRYING TO SHOW LOCALISM FROM ANOTHER COUNTRY.
I SEND HIM AN EMAIL AND NO RESPONSE YET.
LET'S MEET UP AND SHOULD ME YOUR GUAM! HAHA

huh?

j...

not Linda Mar...

and not funny...

Doc

Folks, don't worry about the said guam. The winds at OB have for the most part held-off so grab your shark repellent (aka longboard) and SURF!
NICK - check you caps lock...

That pic was NOT cool. Click over the pic, and see what it says. I'm not a big crying baby.

that wax guy with the shark bite is ca-razy. looks like it totally hurts..poor fella

i bet there was one surfer who quickly decided to paddle over and make a ruckus, and the rest followed suit (whatever they would have done otherwise).

e, thanks for sharing the Mear's BAD-O artwork link. Great stuff.

Interesting Lunada Bay story about Kit Horn

Way to do it hominid! The Brit Horn used to lifeguard & surf at Leo Carrillo in Malibu. If a shark grabs your leg, he's the guy you want surfing nearby.

get over it

Swell's in and it's the real deal. Surfed up North this evening, got in about 5pm. My buddy said the place had been flat all day and started to fill in about 4pm. When we paddled out it was maybe 4' to 6' but it quickly got to a head and a half. By the time we tried to get in against the flood tide it was solidly DOH and closing out across the whole bay in sets that seemed like seven, eight, maybe nine waves. Three locals joined us just before dusk and were swept three coves North before they could get in. And not before the Coast Guard arrived, shot up flares and everything. Pretty hairy.

Super flat this am. Swell must have died over night, oh well. I'll see you at Denny's Spiderman. Three booths to the North.

"Smithie, shulie, ron and the boys have returned from a hellacious trip to New Orleans."

" I feel blessed just to have been around those guys..The brigade is back and buying a shack in the Aves, time for full-time domination."

Anyone know when daylight savings time starts? The sun is coming up way too late.

Anyone know when daylight savings time starts? The sun is coming up way too late.

from Surfline: This just in: Please advise all surfers using the parking lot at Lindemar Beach/ Pacifica that I had my car stolen from the lot last Thursday morning. I had left my keys on the tire, and when I got out of the water, the car and everything in it was gone. The local police say thieves are active in the area, so keep your keys with you, lock your car, and try to avoid taking valuables when you when you head out. Also, we've said it before and we'll say it again: take your keys with you.

(also, and this is IMPORTANT, remember NOT to leave your wallet on the dashboard with several $100 bills fanning out)

I caught some mackers at 1st peak on my shortboard this mid morning and then was completely surrounded by aging longboard thrill seakers. I had to leave after I had my fun.

1st Peak? Is that next to Middles just past Indicator Brah?

no, there was a contest there.
I had a cat named Hoale once by the way.

Mainlanders are called "haoles." What's a hoale?

Aging longboard thrill seekers? Why, that sounds suspiciously like me. Flap, were you out there long enough to see that kid in nothing but trunks ripping Sewer Peak? He must have been out for close to two hours in 54 degree water totally intimidating us old guys.

Yeah, seriously, stop trolling this board you wanna-be Hawaiians.

Man, I had the most sketchiest session up here in a long time in Santa Cruz. It was SO foggy, I couldn't see anyone on the peak, and couldn't judge where the sets were coming from. The wave was dredging on the inner sand bar, and looked a helluva lot like Off the Wall. It was way hairier than anything i've seen recently at O.B., and the undertow was equivalent to the undertow near Ehukai/Pupukea sandbar. Damn, it was SUPER sketch. And it was A LOT bigger than both my friend and I originally thought it was, and it seemed to be getting bigger. We stayed out for 15 minutes and then got the fark outta there.

anyone know anything about the cold water classic in santa Cruz ? happened this weekend didnt it?

Hah, the later heats got post poned because of the fog. Dude, it was SO foggy out there. The contest finishes up tomorrow morning.

caught some serious size today. high grade adrenaline - I'm seeing why guys chase really big waves. it's still october!

Yeah, fog and the fact that they couldn't run but a few heats on Friday. The Lane was totally flat so they moved the whole deal up to "Waddell Creek" and couldn't get anything going until 11am. And then, it blew out at 1pm. We were down there surfing 2' junk just south of there and chuckling about The Classic's theme, "Go big or go home!".

Yup, I saw that guy too. I think he just wants to stand out from the crowd or something. It bugs me because I feel like an overdressed spaceman in my booties and wetsuit when he paddles by with nothing but volcom shorts.

The walls that had some power felt nice doing the big turns. I heard my fin humming!!!???!!

hug the wall.

hahaha! Go big or go home. I heard they used to have it in Jan-Feb, but it was either too stormy, too big, or too damn cold. Go figure.

Banjo, where'd you go out? ESS EFF? I'm still wondering how big it got out at Mavericks and O.B. today since the swell was supposedly picking up all day, right? Did it get TOH? Does anyone know? Surfline sucks.

MSG. Beat it Kook.

Here's a video from Montara today. Looks pretty big.

http://www.culturewave.net/Surfing/mov/AlaskanSwell23Oct05.wmv

I stopped by the Pacifica Pier and hopped the fence at 9 PM and watched waves for maybe 45 minutes. They were mostly a touch OH, but I swear a couple of those set waves were DOH. Mostly just giant really high speed dumpy closeouts, but nobody surfs at the pier anyway.

Hey anon,

Post your name, fag.

I took Highway 1 home yesterday just to watch the show. Every break and every glimpse of the sea was amazing. As is usual, Waddell Creek had at least 20 kite boarder and a half dozen sailboarders. Only this time, the wind was offshore and they were negotiating massive, snarling, two story high walls of whitewater. I stopped at Sloat and, along with about 100 other civilians, just marveled at the sights. And the sounds. It was, indeed, at least TOH at times and you could count seven, eight, nine or more lines of breakers. With binoculars, you could see the biggest sets feather and break a half a mile out somewhere a little to the north. The wildest thing by far was that these monsters, while unimaginably ferocious, consistently broke from a single peak, held up and then peeled violently for a hundred or so yards. They almost seemed as if you could surf them in some other reality where were we all twenty foot tall strongmen.

Most remarkably, the swell even made the Jetty look like a not so embarrassing place to surf.