E's Surf Report

second

Mexi rips.

Esa primera foto es bonita

grizzly out there 8:30 - 10:00. not big, but they were fast-moving buggers, and the wind was wrecking most of 'em. i got one good one, while sharkbait seemed to be scoring dozens.

It's crap like this (last post on yesterday's blog) that make me cringe. It's post like these that make me want to list every wave on the coast, best tides, swell, period, best place to take a photo. But seriously, how shallow are you?

I know we've gone through this already like 1000 times... but if you are so effing self righteous about saving your surf spot from exposure, why type it's initials in this here blog that gets countless hits a day.

Our coast is NO SECRET. Sure there are places that we would all prefer to keep under the radar... but that will not happen especially with entries like this.

It's people like "benjamin" below that really get my goat. How can you be so transparent? It makes me not want to surf. Selfish effing people. But, I WILL NOT STOP SURFING, and I hope I get to surf with you and chat about this without the cloak of anonymity. You can email me at elias at themainframe dot net.

" Bruce,

Seems to me you are purposefully turning a blind eye to the effects of exposure. Not surprising, given that you seem to like to snap pics. I do, too. But I don't roll up to places ML and set a tripod down. That's fucking stupid.

As for the vibe you got otherwise, what I'll offer is that this isn't simple-minded, pointless, macho bullshit your encountering -- it is in fact mindful, purposeful activity by people with a vested interested in not seeing the place they surf turn into the kind of over-crowded nuthouse most of the SC breaks are.

Posted by: benjamin on September 14, 2005 09:39 AM "

Wow.

elias, word.

Hey, anyone know of any reconstructive hand surgeons? This is a serious question here.

MSG, email me. I may have a name for you.

question for ya'll.

What does everyone do with their old surf mags? I have so many of them just laying around with nowhere to go. part of me says to keep them, and another part of me says to throw them away you idiot, you will never look at them again. I keep my TSJ's but what about the others?? can you recycle them sonofbitches or something?

Wow, you guys should check out the shots of Teahupoo on Surfline. Is it just me, or does Garret Mcnamara like sharing tube time with other surfers? Check him and Malik. This is like the other time he was in the tube at Jaws with fellow surfer out in the bowl.

I sold 10 years worth of Surf Magazine on craigslist.org for $20 to some art students.

I doubt they read them.

The Rape of Cali is not to be taken lightly. It is time to take a stand.
Is Kenny Loggin's related to Kenny G?

You kids are trying to become what we are and it isn't working.
We regard our beaches as sacred. Naming, shaming, claiming. You speak with a serpents tongue...
Bla.

The Rape of Cali is not to be taken lightly. It is time to take a stand.
Is Kenny Loggin's related to Kenny G?

You kids are trying to become what we are and it isn't working.
We regard our beaches as sacred. Naming, shaming, claiming. You speak with a serpents tongue...
Bla.

Sitting in the ocean this morn, sampling the best I can from the warbly crud out there, when all of a sudden a long period wave appears. Maybe a wee bit overhead. Warbly too, but moving forward through the lumps. A lined up wave hundreds of yards long. Way too fast and long period for the inner bars. It was followed by another, and another, then little warbles again.

Another set followed about 35 minutes later. I snagged one, barely made it down the face on my 6'1". The wave detonated on the sand and ragdolled me, and all I could think was....

I love fall.

hey, we don't let just anyone drive wherever they want...they gotta get a licensce. Why not do the same thing with surfing....board licence, with plates and everything. Early hawiian breaks were heavily legislated by the chief, why no modern day ones? If it's not just a liesure time activity, but is important enough to screw with people over...seems like it's important enough to have a real set of rules.

Elias, errrr..., what's your email addy?

South is hitting Hawaii sooner than anticipated. Buoys are hitting 10.5 feet @ 19 seconds there and building. Early morning crew said it is seriously macking right now at Ala Moana. I might have some pictures later in the day.

Fark, man, this is the perfect swell for a long ass Indo left I know on the South Shore. I've never been, but it's pretty well known. The last big South had that place breaking for over a mile long. The cheapest, in terms of flight $$$, version of Indo for me that's fer sure.

-You kids are trying to become what we are and it isn't working.

you wish.

Thanks for posting the pics E

"seemed" is the operative word, Mr Kloo. Got lucky a couple of times in that mess. Periods of floaty near boredom punctuated by moments of total obliteration. Little shapeless waves that feel like fists. Sinuses fully loaded. Sand shoved into wetsuit. Fun. Back to reality!

Don't drop names or initials of spots
Don't be a know-it-all and drop names just to feel smart or vengance
Don't provide links to even well publicized foriegn or local spots
Don't label a spots name in photographs
Don't photograph identifying features of sensitive breaks
Don't bring your camera to sensitive spots
Don't drop in
Don't call your buddies on your cell phone
Don't surf and tell (until at least 24 hours after the swell has passed) even if it hurts your ego (sharkbait excluded or crushing/ scary/ crappy conditions)
Don't bring a portacrowd
Don't ditch your board

Show respect
Play fair
Take turns
Share
Have fun
Know your place, skills and etiquette
Tready lighty, especially at localized places

Follow these simple rules of the road and the ocean will be a better place for all of us to surf. I'm sure we are all offenders, but let's try in the name of niceness!

Nabi is here.

"Don't call your buddies on your cell phone"

Hey maaaan i dont need your ruuules...

You forgot one...Don't ride goofy foot

man.. i'm not sure if i really like surfing anymore. Too many rules and vibes and hassles.

thank god for music!!!

I'm taking up hacky-sac

from what i have seen via the faces i have
met from this here spot on the internet and read here
from the nameless anonymous trolls or the dickeys
of the world.....

don't wanna be you.
don't wanna act like you.
don't wanna think like you.

the kids here are alright. good, real people
with jobs, lives, friends and humility.

hey dickey! maybe you could use the complete
set—a job, a life, a lady and some awareness of
the other 4.999999999 billion folks on the planet.

if you don't like this blog read something else.
or at least say something new.

flades—easy on the southpaws dude.

piss off flades......you wanker:

wats da beef flades?

"Flades,God loves Goofyfooters":

If there were more sunny wave filled days this summer (say ... a la '96) there would be less carping, I think.

Less blogs too probably.

Too busy surfing to care.

nice one matt.. though.. it's footbag, not hackey-sack. hackey-sack is a brand name like Kleenex.. ha! more rules!!!

but.. fur serious.. hackey-sack (footbag) farkin' rules and the vibes are all good and inclusive. I miss the community surrounding it. Mutually supportive. Underground. Hard-core. In it for the love. Freestyle-based. Quirky. No limelight. No cool factor. Just a tight community collectively fostering this unusual, beautiful, creative, athletic, artistic endeavor.

Nobody knew what the fuck we were spending hours and hours every day doing. You couldn't even explain it via words. Everybody thought we were dorks... which may have been accurate. It DEFINITELY wasn't cool to be seen sweating and huffing while stringing together 20 move guiltless strings in front of the campus library.

no limited resourse to protect like surfing... soo no need for stinkeye.. only niceness.

Matt.. check out footbag.org if you're serious.

love combos like Smear --> smudge --> double-over-down --> blurry whirl --> whirling swirl --> mobius --> paradox torque --> spinning osis --> flurry --> eggbeater --> pixie-butterfly --> high-plains drifter.

I mostly agree with Rules of the Road about maintaining descretion in order to avoid overcrowding. But I gotta say that all this talk over the last coupla days about surf reports, cameras (web and otherwise) and cell-phones (my gripe of choice) has got me thinking about how I actually make my own, personal decisions about when and where to surf.
At my age (52) and physical condition (very good except for chronic back pain), whether or not I go out depends more on my work schedule / family obligations and how I FEEL, rather than on how good the surf is - sad, but true. It also has a lot to do with my overall surfing ability (mediocre). On most of the best days at Ocean Beach - clean, pitching barrels, with 10 foot+ faces - you don't have to worry about me. I'm sitting in the parking lot, slack-jawed, watching the "real" surfers. But that's just me. Others are able to get on it whenever it's good and some of these may deserve special consideration in light of the dues they've paid - but in proportion to the aloha they show.

"I thought you were going home, haole."

video of some schmuck at the 99 world footbag champs

e, you rule! No sell-out!
I had a friend in college who majored in ultimate frisbee, no shit, but wtf why not!

thanks Burnt.. but.. it's SUCK.. not Rule.
ultimate frisbee fun!
Freestyle frisbee more fun!

Man with all this griping and arguing people forget about how great E's words have been over the last three or so days. Incredible. In todays words, they actually sang in my head. Good writing, as always E.

Anyone know where the term "southpaw" came from? Cool word.

Gonna get fun!!

no way.. thanks hb.. way way too kind..

ok.. off to lunch!!

I'm sad to see the craptastic summertime surf come to an end.. love the low-key no hype no crowd scene.

'According to legend, "southpaw" was coined because at that time the Cubs' home plate faced east, meaning that if the pitcher were left-handed, his throwing arm would be to the south. Voila, "southpaw." '

i think its a boxing term meaning a fighter who predominatly uses his left.

Nice new pics Mexi!
Damn E you've got some serious skills. If I could only surf as well as you hack...

Funny I was in Scotland for the World Ultimate Championships ('99 too). Everyone is like WTF is Ultimate?- Isn't frisbee for dogs? It's funny to be in a sport where you can be surrounded by the best in the world, serious talent! All normal down to earth dudes. Any other "World championship" is a crazy, media frenzy. Fun stuff!

I think I got stoned just watching that footbag video. I need some Doritos.

Man, 20 years ago there was so much less traffic over the Bay Bridge...now it's crowded every day. I blame the KTVU traffic cam.

Gerry is such a Renaissance man, master surfer, actor, shaper, snowboarder ... what's next?

I'm with you, Andrew. And all those morning traffic reports are seriously clogging up our roads. I blame the radio as well. If people shut up about which roads to drive on, we'd have them all to ourselves again.

elias, i'm tired of people who don't get it.

i'm tired of picking up trash off the beach i live at, left by other people.

i'm tired of pro-hos and hawiian-worship and the whole blog trip too.

i'm tired of kooks who can't surf well enough to handle solid swells, out there getting themselves hurt and posing a risk to people.

and mostly i'm just sick of guys like you who don't get why a little bit of pro-active protection of a limited resource is not a Bad Thing, per se.

you think too slowly, and you're twice as shallow as you think i am.

so fuck it. and fuck you, elias. i'm not anonymous, you don't need quotes around my name, it's real. this isn't about protecting one spot from exposure, its about adhering to an ethic that respects people and places for what and who they are, and more than anything else, it is about treading lightly.

get it or go home or get schooled.

i tried being nice a long time ago.

it doesn't work.

Damnnnnn, I smell smoke! Someone is off their meds! You better ask somebody!

I'll surf all your spots, earning the deep slot in process and then I'll kiss your girlfriends as I leave while you vainly attempt to mimic my moves that left you slack jawed.

BACK-OFF "kix" - I own the term "slack jawed" on this thread! ;)

no meds involved, MRX. just a healthy dose of 'had enough of this shit'.

mexi -- or should i say paul -- i stopped being surprised, awhile ago, at the consistent inability of people to actually carry on a conversation here. they'd rather circle-jerk, congratulate each other for nothing in particular, or distract everyone from anything resembling a meaningful topic. thanks for confirming my conviction with that pic.

someone steps up -- 3to5 i believe -- and makes a polite and salient (look it up) point, and what do we get back? shit like "go grow some artichokes".

yeah, that's productive. those are the people you think we're supposed to respect and share with, elias? no, i don't think so.

then we have shutterbugs from SC who can't handle a little stink-eye, informing us that their soldier-cousins might just go "deadly" on us -- yeah, that's real productive too -- i've got so much respect for that, i could just shit.

Funny how underinformed we are despite all this information available to us. I'm seeing the line brought by Benjamin (above post): how long are people supposed to put up with fad-hoppers, phony tough-guys, yuppie wannabes and bumbling kooks and -- above all -- how long do you just "absorb" all the BS and ire and disrespect before you have to "give it back" to where it came from? The well-paid psychiatrist says violence is never the answer (I think he heard it from tha Lama), and it is axiomatic to all of us who are "thinking men" that you will do yourself more violence by initiating and espousing violence as your primary method. This escalates stress, and you'll die younger than you need to. But sometimes I want to give other people their own violence (or stupidity) back to them in a nice little package called "verbal can of whup-ass." Sometimes I fantasize about ripping their spines out of their backs, wrapping it around their necks and strangling them with it. Ultimately, my Socratic Method will leave them choking on the syntactical hemlock, point to point, logic for logic. If that doesn't work, there are other options. But first try to understand, do not simply REACT. Reach deep inside, find a way to stop your inner barbarian from acting out all the crap you watched too many times on TV and in movies, that makes you warped. Flash reactions are the sign of a fool, or a child.

Ultimately, all you physically violent ones on the blog, the ones who enjoy posting threats and promises of deep-seated violence upon anyone you pass judgment on, must come to grips with the following: assault is assault, in the parking lot or in the water. Don't go there, don't pick up the felony b/c you cannot parse the scenario of modern-day surfing, or you go to directly to jail, do not pass "Go" and do not collect $200.

-MM

C'mon ,I've been waiting a while to push that Cletus pic.

Benji,
My take on localism, I've always felt that it creates a pecking order, often times a just pecking order, and it has put me in my place a few times, and I've learned. Usually the localism seems to be directed to the right people. I think loud mouths are annoying as all hell, and I prefer silence or quiet conversation in the water(I don't really even like hooting) and I hate when people talk so that everyone can hear their conversation. But localism does get ugly once in a while, that I don't like. Oh, and I have never considered myself a local anywhere.

I do know some locals from the spot we're talken bout and they are cool peops.

If you want respect you will not get it from waxing someone's window or yanking their leash in the line up. I've surfed crowds and had fun and laughed, and also got stink eye from one other guy so, so it seems to me you bring what you brung.

for the record, i partake in neither activity, MRX. have NEVER waxed anyone, loosened lug nuts, or the like. nor do i advocate anything resembling physical violence. and intimidation sucks too. but standing up for what you believe in and being willing to speak it, however -- people gotta do that.

i find it really ironic that bruce was the one who felt the need to puff himself up here and tell us about his deadly cousin and his cop background, you know?

e- I give you some serious props, I thought I was a badass if I got three hacks in!
The words have been an inspiration and mexi's pictures are giving me some stoke as well-might even get back into photography once again.

I'm so fired up about this swell comming ...

I agree with Benjamin. There is a problem out there. Ignore it with a big smile and your head in the sand and let the next generation reap what we have sown. Or step up to the plate and at least try to improve the situation. I am not stuck in the past, Andrew, (no offense taken) I am focused on the future. And while I very much let myself soak in the joy of today, I do not believe in looking through rose colored glasses with a big smile and watch a few others try and clean up our mess.

Chunky chunky sets coming through. Big gaps in sets, but there's some thick meaty ones when they come.

you cannot change the world for the better. you cannot even change my mind. you are powerless. lounge in your powerlessness. immerse yourself. make sexy pouty lips as you pretend to blow bubbles off your hand, scooped from your large oversized tub of powerlessness.

oops - kix on that last one, wouldn't want peeps to think my internet "persona" was trying to be anonymous and unaccountable.

A surfer that litters is despicable. But i think to avoid some of ben's problems, you would have to ban bonfires as well.

you guys are all whacky. this is just a local surf site. E- how many unique visitors do you get a day? 100, 1000, 10000?

You guys actually think that naming some spot in Hawaii, Chile, Indo or wherever is going to effect the crowd in one bit? if you do your nuts.

Secondly, regarding posting local pics and names, look if it was like 2 hours or 2 days ago at OB i understand not calling out a cross street. But if its Steamers or Pleasure or any one of the totally obvious spots on West or East Cliff, who cares? its not like 25,000 other surfers cant just drive by and see whats doing.

Thirdly, if you posting any lesser known spots in California I understand not calling out a spot because its way too easy to drive on down or up the coast with 5 of your best friends and you ruin it for all.

i think you all make WAY too big a deal here. be moderate and respectful, but dont trip out and think you hiding something by not naming a spot if its totally obvious and populated.

So benji doesn’t partake in any activities that one stereotypical "local" would. Instead he sits behind his computer screen and blabs. Damn, you are really brave! All hail benji cuz he stands up for what he believes on a message board!!!

Benji. Representing hard in 2005. Watch out!

Texas Farmer Claims He Caught Legendary 'Chupacabra'

COLEMAN, Texas -- A Texas farmer may have found what some would call a "chupacabra," a legendary animal known for sucking the blood out of goats.

Reggie Lagow set a trap last week after a number of his chickens and turkeys were killed. What he found in his trap was a mix between a hairless dog, a rat and a kangaroo. The mystery animal has been sent to Texas Parks and Wildlife in hopes of determining what it is

Historical account of a big wave...he earlier in the day reported a wave that washed over a rock a half mile out and 103' high. Surfing is one of the few sports where quantum physics is observable.

***************

This low, square, brick tower, painted white, was built in 1871. The light is only 20 feet above ground, but the headland on which it stands gives it an elevation of 196 feet above the sea. The location is one of the most picturesque on the California coast. Despite the great height of the tower above the sea, heavy seas have been known to reach it. In 1913, the keeper made the following report: "At 4:40 p. m. I observed a sea of unusual height. When it struck the bluff the jar was very heavy. The lens immediately stopped revolving. The sea shot up the face of the bluff and over it, until the solid sea seemed to me to be on a level with where I stood in the lantern. The sea itself fell over onto the top of the bluff and struck the tower about on a level with the balcony. The whole point between the tower and the bluff was buried in water."

dsx you are a fucking kook, it does matter. People like you who think it's OK to name drop on a site that is visited by 1000's of hungry surfers that travel, and is searchable on the net. You are the fucking kook. Every post of yours you manage to drop more names. Maybe if you have actually been to Costa Rica or Hawaii, you would understand. But you and the rest don't understand.

Show some respect or go home

Hey, I jsut bought a jetski this summer, and me and my brother, Billy Bob, have been practicing towing behind it on a surfboard out in the Sacramento River with all of the waterskiers and wakeboarders. It's really fun, but I'm looking for a bigger challenge. I saw a video of a guy (Lard something or other) who was riding big waves after being towed by a jetski. That looks like fun!

I'm a smart guy, so I was thinking about starting small at an out of the way place. I can't think of a place more out of the way than Big Sur. Geez, I've been to beaches down there and not seen anyone for miles. Can someone tell me where I might be able to launch my ski down there?

Also, I've been reading all all the websites about some waves that are on the way. Does anyone know what time they're going to arrive? It'd be cool if they got here on like Friday afteroon. I could take a long lunch break out of the office and head to Linda Mar or something.

Thanks everyone - and be sure to watch out for me over the weekend!

Surfline just named names and now Teahupoo will apparently be swamped by thousands of kooks who saw the report on the Internet. NOT

Check out the first image with the surferlesss board, whoah.
http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_09_13_tahiti_r1.cfm

sea scum,
I thought benji was just speaking his mind. Since when does speaking his mind have to be backed up with fists? And how can speaking your mind on a computer be backed up by fists anyway.

I personally can understand the mentality of someone trying to deter people from surfing some particular local. It works to some extent. The weak or non-confrontational end up going somewhere else. Of course, waxing someones windows is a step above yelling at someone, and has its own inherent risks involved with such activities. As far as Bruce's cousin, I'm sure someone saying "See you next weekend" wouldn't rile up one of our honored soldiers to kick some ass, as they have obviously seen and heard much worse.
Bruce, I like the pics, but not the comments like, "Gee no one out at the Lane this last Sat. morning" Those comments are sure to increase crowds on future Sat. mornings. Like I've heard people say "kind of like shitting in your own bed" My 2$

That's a great rational because Surfline does it that makes it OK!

Newsflash: I think Surfline is telling everyone to jump off a bridge....

Benjamin ,
that was a pathetic rant. You should be thankful that you have nothing to worry about but the ethics of this great activitiy that we are lucky enough to participate in. Instead of giving people the stink eye you should be thankful you're not looking for your family in new Orleans or trying to build your home in Sri Lanka, or your not sick and dying or rotting away in a cell somewhere. One hundred years from now when we are all a distant mememory at best will all this griping matter? better yet move to mexico or central America and become another angry californian expat. I was born and raised here and learned to surf here so who the fuck are you to tell E that crap? Get a job travel and get some real perspective

does benjamin rip?

more rouge waves at california lighthouses:

1952 was not a great year either. One keeper suffered a mental breakdown and Coast Guard officials had to land on the island to remove him. Also, the winter of 1952 was the harshest in history at the reef. During one storm, 160-foot waves swept over the lighthouse, shattering a window in the lantern room which was 146-feet above normal water.

Benjeman, Web, Mexi, 3-5, and the rest of the BVB fan club; What is it exactly your trying to protect? Please tell me. Trying to protect the memories of your childhood in the 1920's when they had no wetsuits? You think cause you've been surfing and reading fucking maps longer than some people you have more of a right to the natural recources on this fucking planet? I mean I know surfers have huge egos but, well ya, I know surfers have huge egos. Get some lives. Sorry for the poty mouth. I wonder how many dead bodies they found in the south today.

that's a lot of rouge!

And what antman said too!

Im scared of aliens, i think the chupacabra is one!!!

Ok, let's recap:

(I know I am shallow because I don't post a comment but I ain't got nothing valuable to add that hasn't been covered 90 times this week! BLAH)

This is for Benji because he showed he has sack and got pissed:

This is for Elias because he is a good guy, shapes a good board, and hopefully had a memorable day on Saturday:

This one is for Bruce, well, because Bruce is a good dude that shares a good vibe with those that know him:

This is for Willie Nelson (If you have to ask why, you should just give up now):

This is for BVB cause he stirs shit up all the time (which isn't always a bad thing!):

Let's have us some waves now!

Resident Thong Expert

Dammit, i wish i could read those..

Damn, I forgot you Bagel.

This one is for Bagel, 'cause he is round and doughy, and you can see through the middle. Much like a donut but not really:

"your large oversized tub of powerlessness"

The longer there are places not like Santa Crowded the better.

3to5, well said the other day.

yeah.. i dug the powerlessness post. and Kaiser's ladies friggin rule!

all the comments were insightful.

surfing rules. surfing crowded waves sucks. good vibes rules. macho aggression sucks. it's all going to explode into some huge fleshy mass of over-tanned skin and epoxied resin some day. Yay!!!!

explosions rule.

also want to add that Bruce could be the nicest guy i've ever met. strait up.

My two cents. Just like a shitty, small day, where everybody yells at everybody else because...well because it's small and shitty and it has been for weeks, the same effect is happening on this board as of late.

We all need to get some surf. Good news. Look outside. The swell has arrived.

son of a!

Kaiser is god. Or...if I thought there was one. Kaiser and his girls are them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

surfseeker, you're spot on. hopefully everybody will be satiated by this time next week, spot naming, bad vibes, and all. cheers.

i'd name the beer i'm drinking but i'm afraid it could lead to a shortage of cascade hops if i do so. i'm also about to have some p*zz* to go with it. shhh, don't tell.

southshore of Oahu got hit today by this monster south swell that roared through Tahiti. It was big and closed out in most spots, but lots of waves for everyone. supposed to fill in with larger sets and most consistent tomorrow. Oh yeh. Should hit Cali by this morning.

e - I'm impressed with your poetry kick of the last few days. Very nice, niceness.

-Dave

I like surfing with nice old guys who tell you to call their friend grampa and let you have waves and such. and then theres the old guy on a pink board whos bald and the old guy with a big beard and long hair on a big green board thats backwards with his fin sticking up in the air. hes always cool too. and then theres me - a young guy with curly ass hair and a hybrid... yeaah.

E - what type of shoes are optimal for footbag? Is it harder without shoes?

The sport of kings has become infiltrated with filty jesters.

hey quit whining and go surfing - you might learn something. BTW, bstah, saw those same two long period sets, jumped on a wave of one, closed out but what the hell - a real face!

Surf, don't try to be a surfer. Word.

To jump in on the Bruce defense, everyday I hit the elevator button to the office, and my stomach sinks a bit. The dread grows as walk down the hall, and I'm just hating life as I hit the power button to my computer. I think about how the next 9 hours will suck the life outta me. Then my wallpaper comes up, and it's a picture of me, in front a perfect wave, courtesy of Bruce, and it lightens the load a bit.

.

There are very few people who make surfing a better sport and Bruce is one of them.

Surfing, like the rest of society is plagued with anger, aggression, frustration, conflict etc.

The true surfing experience should add to your character, not take from it.