E's Surf Report

saturday = fun; could use a few more like that before it ratchets up bigger, as it seems to be threatening to do.

haven't noticed any smash-n-grab reports in the last while...

first.

doh!

doh!

Saw a sea lion washing around in the shorebreak with a perfect shark bite taken out of it's side. This was on one of the beaches by downtown HMB.

waves were weak this morning. looks like some juice is coming. check out the taiwan waves linked on blakestah's site.

e - what is that image? sweet.

just got back from oahu. third time skunked in as many months. i am working on a house there and get to go once a month for 4-5 days... not a bad setup. also headed to SD this weekend hoping for some juice from that big south that is supposed to hit.

Quick heads up about HMB and the jetty since we have a macking southie headed our way and since this is the Fall season and Whitey has been making his usual appearance. There is a sewage pipe in El Grananda or south of it at one of those sketchy beachbreaks.

Just a thought to consider.

man i havent heard a swell so hyped since the humunga cowabunga from down unda

atta way, danny way
so whatda ya think 20ft. above the lip?
jheesh

Bruce,

Yeterday referenced a spot that is hollow sacred ground to some, including me. If you had been surfing there for years or a more feral perspective on surfing in the fertile crescent. You might have a bit more understanding and respect for the locals in that area and what has shaped there local surf culture. You'd know that many of the rippers and groms work in farming or agriculture business. It's a blue collar surf spot and will always be. Quality surf options are limted. If the boys don't see you during the week and only on weekends. They will have your number. If you ever have surfed the place when it's on. You'd also know pound for pound it will kick your ass just like your local beach. You'd recognize it's a smaller set-up than your beach. The guys that live close to it have a long standing traditon of protecting it's samller arena and fickle nature. It's places like this that the current state of McSsurfing have threatened and I'm glad to hear that the boys are protecting it as the generations before.

Just becuase a few in SC have embraced you don't think that ego stroking picture taking aloha works everywhere. Not hating here, just offering a bit of color to your prespective.

Was out east for a wedding last weekend and snagged some crumbly, but fun ones with some friends. Nice to be out in boardies! It's crazy how much the water temp changes out there from winter to summer!

Here are a couple of pics from a Bondi surf report...temporarily relocated to Indo. The first is a very cool underwater shot...and the second is for Kaiser.

"Bells Beach brah, 100 year storm coming. I ain't gonna miss it..." Brody '91

Boost Mobile Pro is fired up and rolling:
http://www.boostmobileprosurf2005.com

some Chun's Reef action yesterday:

Shit is getting more hyped than ever... what's next? Pink Crush, Bigger than flat summer Friday? Grab your foamie, ditch work all and head to Santa Crazy. The south is comming run for cover.

"Surfing is inherently selfish. My site is not. You can get over it, or keep chewing on the same bitter pill, your choice. "

Re- yesterdays post Bstah This is a personal thank you for being such a humanitarian to our community at the expense of our beach.

I'm sure you don't enjoy the local celebrity status your site affords you. Now you are worshipped by the flocks of landlocked SUVer's that praise your forecasting in second to God, rubbing elbows with Sponsler. Self proclaimed big wave hero, fin master,weather guru, know-it-all and beach local.

Selfless indeed.....

Sometimes it is better to tread lightly, especially when you are exploiting a limited, precious resource. Each new day bring sadness and bitterness... but is there hope???

Respect, aloha, niceness, maybe even some soul.. yes

Exploitation, bragging, ego, selfishness, kiss and puke...no

Don't make this place another Santa Cruz at the expense of your ego, every one of you has an impact!

Some places deserve to remain sacred, uninfiltrated by the masses, internet hype... and wild

" Your going down Brodi, and Im the one thats gonna make it happen"

3-5, so move back to Moss Landing and grow some fucking artichokes.

Our beach has no parking permits because it is a recreational resource and the city considers it a park - someplace to play. Adding permits would have a dramatic impact on people visiting. However, even people like the Coastal Commission oppose parking permits. I believe there is a very influential local that is "one of you" on the board, you should talk to him. I've spoken with him about parking permits. Increasing beach access is a major consideration in the CCC work, and opposing parking permits is inline with that philosophy.

There are currently 4 live streaming webcams at Ocean Beach, displaying its CURRENT WAVE STATUS to the patrons of Surfline, Surfpulse, and Wavewatch. I know the home address of each one, and even know the people who set up the cams, and I urged each one of them to cease and desist.

There is a fully advertised call-in phone surf report in full view of the breaks at VFWs and Kellys. Tell Bob and Dave to take it down.

Or not...let me know how it all goes. Each of these things has real impacts - ESPECIALLY the webcams.

Like it or not, the surfing crowds of the 80s are not coming back. The steady progression started with the promenade construction - taking down of the old Great Highway. Now there are miles of accessible beach. But you blame me for having a real impact...

i thought BVB wasnt posting anymore?

"President Bush aid today that he accepted responsibility for the extent to which the federal government fell short of its share in relief efforts."

crazy STILL no one gets canned in the bush white house.
if anyone i know fucked up as bad they have for the last
5 years they would be out of a job. sorry for the political
shite but my ire has hit a high point today.

on a lighter note...the nc coast is FIRING!

on a parking note...it also reflects living density.
less people per square mile in the avs. no parking
permits. if the city got grief or residents raised cain
cause they can't park, then we'd have permits. i say
this as a 5 year sf resident who just moved way west,
outer richmond from the inner and the parking game
is so low impact, low stress out there in comparison.

blake..you are an easy target. let it roll like a
ducks back and water. if you know where the
cams are, why not post some names and addresses
and then see who gets repeatedly reamed? you and
your lack of anonymity make harassment too easy.
please don't change a damn thing.

i sense some surf comin'...bout frickin time!

" YOU shaped this Turtle?"

- Chandler

Blake I think the problem is the hypocrisy and the arrogance

Claiming it's a selfless act
Encouraging people to take cams down yet promoting people to surf the beach when it's good
Every other report has a real effects the crowds... but your more specific and more accurate report has no impact

Anyone notice pattern here?

I think your support exponentially increases by the distance people live away from the beach

Sometime lurker, rarely a poster. I get tired of seeing this discussion every fall when the waves are minimal but the crowds thick. forecasters can't be blamed for crowding at the beach. Surfing is getting more popular. having said that, we have to put up with the crowds in the spring, the fall, and the summer. But who cares. Cause anyone whose checking a webcame to know what the surf is like is not surfing when the periods start to increase. Come winter, when the surf gets good, and overhead, does anyone have a real problem with not being able to find good surf by yourself. I sure don't.
there were times this summer i would be amazed to see how many people were out at the beach. 5 years ago, there wouldn't be anyone out when there are 30 people now. But those surfers seem to get really busy with work and snowboarding over the winter.
I am willing to bet that the people that complain about blakestah's report actually use it. I know i really appreciate what he's doing. It helps me out a lot and its a free service he is doing as a favor. This is coming from a second generation sf surfer. thanks E and blakestah peace

Sometime lurker, rarely a poster. I get tired of seeing this discussion every fall when the waves are minimal but the crowds thick. forecasters can't be blamed for crowding at the beach. Surfing is getting more popular. having said that, we have to put up with the crowds in the spring, the fall, and the summer. But who cares. Cause anyone whose checking a webcame to know what the surf is like is not surfing when the periods start to increase. Come winter, when the surf gets good, and overhead, does anyone have a real problem with not being able to find good surf by yourself. I sure don't.
there were times this summer i would be amazed to see how many people were out at the beach. 5 years ago, there wouldn't be anyone out when there are 30 people now. But those surfers seem to get really busy with work and snowboarding over the winter.
I am willing to bet that the people that complain about blakestah's report actually use it. I know i really appreciate what he's doing. It helps me out a lot and its a free service he is doing as a favor. This is coming from a second generation sf surfer. thanks E and blakestah peace

Ya Brah, Brodi gonna mess ya up.

You guys all need to sit down and smoke a phat joint together or something.

Hostility all over the place.

Have some respect for the sport that is bringing you here. Shut your mouth and surf. Enjoy what brings you to the water each and every time you drive to the beach, the reef, that secret spot, that spot that used to be less crowded, that spot that used to be "cam-free", that spot that is empty, that spot that is small and blown, that spot that you traveled 1000 miles for....

Aloha!

Chuns looks sweet. I am sure the spots just up the road are sweet as well. Time to hit up The Little Grass Shack (damn, just exposed my secret spot....)

Nice pic CK! First post in a while was a good one!

nice hams ck!

Kaiser i think its time to start posting empty lefthand pointbreaks and the supermodels who surf them.

Does anyone know of some good places to surf in the Kapalua area of Maui? I'm headed there for a wedding in a couple weeks and want to get some serious time in the water.

Speaking of smoking a fat spliff, there's a showing of "Down the Line" at Red Vic Thur, Fri, Sat, Sun. Gold Cane two blocks down has good beer on tap and big old smoking patio. I'm just saying.

hey Meat Head,

They'll be organic artichokes instead of fucking artichokes. Gotta protect the elkhorn slough from pesticide run-off.

hey Meat Head,

They'll be organic artichokes instead of fucking artichokes. Gotta protect the elkhorn slough from pesticide run-off.

I agree....

I agree more....

So will this will be my daughters fate?: Wake up and click on the computer. Check the web cam. Read the report of each spot. Make up her mind before even stepping out the door. Put on her Roxy clothes. Go join the masses for a group surf, never really understanding what is happening or why, but relying on another to tell her where she should go and what she should do. Staying mentally lazy because it is easier to read the Cliff notes than to read the book. Missing out on the satisfaction and joy of self reliance and discovery. Getting sucked into the vortex of mediocrity. Caring more about how others see her than how she sees herself.

No, I don't think so.

No, that will not be her fate. If she chooses to pursue a life on the water,(or any path that she decides to walk) she will learn from the bottom up. She will learn how to read the sea and understand the complexities of mother nature, she will not need or want another to guide her on her daily journey, but instead will stand tall and separate herself from the lazy masses. She will consider it a matter of pride to not rely on others, but look inward for answers. She will understand the reality of an angry ocean, and sympathize with those who may be risking all to make a living in it. She will understand tradition and soak those traditions into her soul, so that the smell of the sea, the smell of the trail and wax and wet dogs and neoprene and wood smoke and the feel of companionship will become part of her inner core. She will know how to handle a boat, dive, fish and will know how to beachcomb on a lazy day, and understand that she is not wasting time while doing so. She will welcome newcomers with open heart and share knowledge and tradition that is common among all seafaring people throughout history. She will have to choose technologies that enrich her life and discard those that soften. She will respect her elders and those who have a part in her mentoring to adulthood, because to do so welcomes her into the whole.

What does this have to do with life in 2005 and our ongoing discussions? Nothing. And everything. We are constantly teetering on losing a vital part of our humanity through the barrage of modern technology and all that comes with it. Is all technology “bad”? Of course not. Is there a detrimental effect that some modern technology has on our experiencing a fully enriched life? I firmly believe yes. Societies have struggled with how to deal with newfound knowledge for our entire history. Some have been unable to adapt and withered away. Some have grown stronger. Every one of us can think of a past culture that we feel had something valuable that is now lost.Do not underestimate the magnitude of what our micro-culture is now facing. It is huge. I do not know the answers any more than another. But I am not afraid to make a decision on what I think is right and stick with it. Ignore it and be a welcome part of the mindless masses. Or be a thinker and try to shape the future for the better. Why does it matter? It matters because I love my daughter more than my own life. And I am scrapping in any and all ways I know to try and hand her something better than what I have. And I love surfing, so our surfing life becomes part of it. It matters. I am sure of it.

that was a little bit dramatic, now, wasn't it?

web, well-spoken, I couldn't agree with you more. I'm going to look you up one day when I get out of here.

Read my manifesto!
http://www.thecourier.com/manifest.htm

Vibe meter faultering

I love organic artichokes, fuck all them pesticide transplants....

Bagel - You're SO funny! Korewin too! Hee hee hee you little creeps. Always sniding-in and pot-shotting other peeps with a differing opinion than your prose writing OB beach tranny guru E.
Ya'll need to stop posting pic's of local waves and naming the spots you "surf." Serioulsy. Wether you know it or not we know who you are. You've been outed duuuuuude.
Blake is actually E's father - do the math.
I forsee a day when you write in telling us about how a local at spot X confronted you and your little gang of drips and gave you the fat black eye you by now truely deserve.
Kaiser, does your mother know?

South smouth shut-up already...

web reminds me of the guys I was on the oil tanker with...all a bit defiant of modern life and with part of their mind always grounded in the past. The irony is that we delivered the gas that enabled modern lifers to run their SUVs between their suburban houses and their cubicles. I don't agree with everything web says, but I'm glad he shares it.

I think what is left out of the cam/forecast argument is the "management" aspect. Access to knowldge isn't the same as it used to be. How do we handle it? There's a number of opportunities between checking a cam and riding a wave that provide plenty of opportunties to reduce crowding, increase etiqutte, increase respect for the ocean and those who use it.

Gawd damn, Kaiser, where are those bikini babe shots from? Where do you get these shots of swimsuit lineups?

Hey, be, uhmmm, in a couple weeks? Who knows. Surf forecasting isn't that far out. I'd say that by then, surf should be pretty dismal. Time to be there is this week: solid double OH NW swell hitting the islands, with a huge solid SW swell hitting tomorrow. I say in two weeks, you'll see jack shit. Reason? It's too early for the Winter season, and already too late for anymore south swells in Hawaii. Both of the swells that are running there this week is like a major fluke in my books. I've never seen a good Sept. like this ever in Hawaii. Man, this is too good.

Hey dudes, this NW swell hitting Hawaii is supposed to hit up here tomorrow. O.B. looks like the call. Who's going? I wanna go SOOOOO bad! I've been having problems sleeping this week because i'm so AMPED to surf!

"Blake, You mean you are my father??, but I don't want to go to the dark side"

Big Hank, that hurts bro.

"You will learn in time the dark ways of the force, my young apprentice"

All Hail Kaiser Sose!

...more please.

I think that larger numbers of people in the water has a lot more to do with the fact that more people surf now and not that much to do with the internet. A person who does not surf will never be next to you in the lineup, regardless of whether pictures of that spot are on-line and regardless of whether a swell was predicted.

I like all the internet tools to tell you about swells. I even like cameras. It doesn't much matter because I usually just go out weekend mornings. I may have to sneak out for tommorrow though.

Ha! Nice one.

Crowds: Hmmmm, click on this and check the bottom right - http://www.quiznos.com/

my $.02 for the day - the guacamole and chipotle mayo are also pretty banging

oh yeah

web-from one father to the next, just want to prepare you- despite all our love, the kids tend to be just as hard hearded going in their direction as we do in ours.

whoah, only three georgies!
plenty of surfers are gonna dig that cause board wax ain't getting any cheaper you know.

I saw a guy at Ortega and Great Hwy looking in cars. He is possibly Latin with a shaved head about 5'10". He drives a honda civic 2XBW560. He drove away quickly when he noticed me writing his plate nimber down. I call the PD and gave them the info

Holy Shit

Don't any of you dare try and name that spot!!!!!

Me too: I like all surf reports/hotlines/surf cams; especially since gas has been over 3 dollars a gallon. Let's all learn how to leverage technology to save the planet.

Yup he paddled into that bad boy.

i saw a guy looking at the waves and i killed him.

Not really work safe but nice!

http://pages.globetrotter.net/mcordeau/2004/exercice2.swf

http://pages.globetrotter.net/mcordeau/2004/exercice5.swf

http://pages.globetrotter.net/mcordeau/2004/exercice3.swf

we name that spot and everyone on this board is going to go charge? yeah right.

good idea msg.Lets post in real time from our blackberry the spots that are good, then only send people there. Then, lets make sure that 4 riders are in each car. How about, if it is more than 1/2 gallon away from home, don't go? That will save gas. I'll buy into that one right now.

spot naming:
Punta de Lobos. Guys, surfine ran a whole article on that wave...and that same photo is on wannakook.com
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/South_America/Chile/Central_Santiago/punta_de_los_lobos/index.html
http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_06_05_chile.cfm

Otto - Good Work!!!!

Damn, that WAS the link of the day! NICE!

Mexi...I'm guessing he didn't make that wave?...doesn't seem possible to have enough speed to keep the board on the wave with the water rushing up the face on a paddle-in. I get vertigo just imagining the surfer's POV.

This tow-kite was kinda cool.

dsx you are a fing kook
e could you regulate please?

anon-
what a joke...naming a spot thats on countless websites, surfline, 10000 miles away and GIANT...yeah i can see all the dudes and giget packing up for that trip.

Its like posting a pic of Jaws and saying Dude, dont name that. Or Mavs and saying, no naming. get a clue anonymous poser...err...poster.

DUDE! i just bought my ticket to Chile, thanks for the info Mexi! Thank God i know about that place. You guys are the most giving surfers around!

A big thanks Lewis Samuels for his article, shame on you... you sellout, name dropper.

I guess this guy is a kook for naming the spot on his own web site:
http://www.ramonnavarro.cl/ramon.htm

by the way...he's the damn guy charging that wave!

Sorry asshole an unnamed pic of a relatively unknown break is not the same as Jaws or Mavs

Don't god damn drop names fro anywhere, especially for S.A.- nobody wants it to become like lame ass Costa Rica (Santa Cruz South)

More waves please:

9-12-05 Chun's Reef

here bitch at this guy, ewissamuels@sbcglobal.net, he wrote the story.
and this guy: Ramon http://www.ramonnavarro.cl/, he surfed it and named it on his site.
and this guy: Phil, muller_philip@hotmail.com, he took the pics...
and the rest of the surfing world who has known about Lobos for years, jackass. If you werent stupid you would already know there are 2-4 big wave spots in S.A. Pico Alto, El Gringo, El Beuy and Lobos. nothing new there anonymous poser.

Surfers Path just did a big article on Punta de Lobos. Chill out anon.

Can't we all just get along?
...or do I have to bust you up?

That's Sunset not Chun's. Artichokes rule!

These last two days' posts have been beyond lame. Hope ya'll have get some waves from the swells coming in and return to sharing good vibes again. Til then.

It's an amazing picture, it should have been left at that. Naming spots is lame.

But man that's a fucking huge wave!

All you anonymous mofo's better stand up with your real email address or get the hell out of dodge. Dsx is in the clear on this one.

Hey dsx, I've spent a lot of time down there. The waves aren't that good. It's either blown out or giant and crushing, good luck! So in a couple week trip your odds of catching it good are slim to none. Better to travel somewhere else.

But I speak for many when nobody appreciates the outing of an photo or the naming of a spot or linking to that information. REGARDLESS whether that place is waimea bay or OB or a semi well known spot 7000 miles away. So don't be a smart ass and show some respect, thanks! DON'T DROP NAMES. If someone else does it, that doesn't make it OK for you to do it jackass.

Just because you know that stuff, doesn't mean everyone else does so don't go pointing it out the the rest of the people whom it might have missed it.

Damn, you're RIGHT! WTF? Man, i'm going loony from amping for surf I can't even read straight!

so are you saying no one wants me to name all the big sur spots? I;ll do it. in a heartbeat.

could you guys give me directions to that Chun's place --looks fun, wanna go there with my homies..

keep on naming
and then all places will be crowded like this

any body know the swell window for pavones?. I'll be in CR tomorrow.
thanks

East Swell JB, It'll take North East too!

whoa!!

mommy.

Go to Kaiser's favorite spot Leftovers. Chun's blows

No, go up to Army Beach and just park your car on the side of the road. It will be fine. You can watch over it while you surf.

Leftovers sucks. Chun's blows. Besides, I am sure you can surf with Bob as he is always up there.

If it sucks there, put your trucker hat on and roll over to Makaha. If you can't find the break, just stop and ask anyone, they will point you in the right direction.

ramon charges

Yes, lets keep those posts upbeat, you negative posters. It is all so wonderful. I cannot wait until Friday. I am taking the day off along with everyone else because the report says it is going to be so good. But that’s OK. We can all share with 100 of our best friends. It is going to be a love fest. And of course, only the best surfers will get the good waves, so it will sort itself out. And the good surfers don’t mind when all the beginners ditch their boards at spots they should not be at, because we are all about good vibes. So what if a good surfer is set up for a barrel and a beginner fucks it up. It’s all good. Why, just this summer I surfed uncrowed waves. Of course they sucked, but so what. It was smiles all around. And then even beter will be Saturday. We can share with 200 of our best friends. I feel so good and upbeat. I am going to model myself around those guys like Johnny Boy, Flea and those guys. They are so happy about sharing with a bunch of kooks that have been surfing like 15 times and should be at Cowells. Dont know about Cowells? Just check the report. You can find out anything you need to know.Such killer vibes, dude. Oh, and by the way, I am so upbeat about sharing, that I am going to take a shit on the lens of the first surfcam that some whore puts up where I surf, and I will share the kernels of corn I ate for dinner with “ya’all” Where is that North shore spot? I want the report on that place. Well, I hope you ALL get waves on the swell that is coming, until then peace out.

I havent heard this much bitching since the grown ups tried to close the surf shack and tried to stop us from dancing in our high school. Wheres kenny loggins when you need him?

I been working so hard
Keep punching my card
Eight hours, for what?
Oh, tell me what I got
I get this feeling
That time's just holding me down
I'll hit the ceiling
Or else I'll tear up this town
Tonight I gotta cut
(Chorus)
Loose, footloose
Kick off your Sunday shoes
Please, Louise
Pull me offa my knees
Jack, get back
C'mon before we crack
Lose your blues
Everybody cut footloose
You're playing so cool
Obeying every rule
Dig way down in your heart
You're yearning, burning for some
Somebody to tell you
That life ain't passing you by
I'm trying to tell you
It will if you don't even try
You can fly if you'd only cut
(Chorus)
Loose, footloose
Kick off your Sunday shoes
Oowhee, Marie
Shake it, shake it for me
Whoa, Milo
C'mon, c'mon let go
Lose your blues
Everybody cut footloose
FIRST - we got to turn you around
SECOND - You put your feet on the ground
THIRD - Now take a hold of your soul
FOUR - Whooooooooa, I'm turning it
Loose, FOOTLOOSE

Yea! Naming spots is wrong. This site is purported to be about increasing stoke. Naming spots decreases stoke.

Blakstah and E are the smart ones. Isn't that right guys? Naming spots decreases stoke.

Part of surfings allure is the mystery of the unknown. Even the mystery of it increases stoke. It's kind of like Kaiser's pics, you can't quite see the whole thing. There's mystery there.

Naming spots is wrong! Of course, there'e exceptions. For ex: "There's this great contest called the Eddie. It's location is at W******B*****"

anyone go through the process of getting life insurance lately? from what i'm hearing a blood &/or piss test is standard practice. testing positive for cannaboids leads to being classified as a smoker, which means the rates are 4x more.

anyone been through this? anyway around it? if not, how long of a fast is required for a clean blood/piss test?

South Swell mmm surfers

I'm waiting for you spot namers... Karma comes around sooner or later and I don't like trespassers

footloose was rad.

yeah.. naming spots is kinda whack. i used to do it a ton but then got bitch-slapped enough so that i stopped. I understand what's up with that now and agree that vague is vogue.
... unless it's Lindy or Stone Harbor!!

SURRRFF!! or not.

thanks for the citizenship, otto!

so, which avenues do you think will do best in the coming swells? please give separate answers for the nw and the south ones. also, pls note the easiest paddling-out spots nearby. what kind of wax should i use? thanks in advance!

(kidding! kidding!)

i agree with bagel - skate or masterbate.

this is not a surf spot

Skate to Relate

Memories of Friday night....

E, You did not just name Stone Harbor! Delete that quick or the shoobies will come running!

Have you guys checked wetsand? They downgraded that swell. Evidently it moved west and is going to hit lake titicaca but miss cali.

surfing is fun but "Surfers" suck. Grow up, take your heads out of your asses. Worry about things that matter and don't hog waves. The most whiny members of this e's collection of little bitches (based solely on the claiming that goes on here) get more than their fair share of waves. Its really appalling when you put it in perspective. what is the average physical age of an e's poster? 38.5? average mental age? 16?

dude, have you heard of california? i hear that there is surf there? i don't surf just yet and want to learn. can i just go out anywhere and get some waves? i love the ocean and want to know where to go?

LETS PARTY AT THE BEACH and SURF!!!! BURN MORE PALLETS AND BREAK MORE BOTTLES!

yo weed man,
i hear it takes 23 days to flush down to miniscule levels in the human bod

these girls can crowd my surf spot anytime

http://www.wavewatch.com/pages/cam.php?CamID=8&RegionID=17

I love you guys!!!

Yo weed man,
Got the life insurance a few years ago. Admitted smoking green a few times in the last year. My insurance broker and everyone else said I was insane for saying that (with the whole office laughing at me for being so stupid). End result, there was no ding on my rates. I figured I better say something since it was a several times daily thing then. Apparently they only check for tobbaco type residues re: smoking.
Recently I went for the next type of insurance (disability)and admitted to nothing (back 10 years was the question) since that was the advice given by that insurance broker. They nailed me to the wall since they had all my medical records and the prior insurance questionaire. For this insurance blood test, I went straight for two months also just to make sure. After a lot of back and forth (signed avidavits), they gave me the insurance. My advice, be straight for a month or so and lie through your teeth, and never tell your doctors anything!!!!

There was a guy looking into cars at sloat earlier. When I saw him I walked out of my car to make sure he kept walking. He left, but I was unable to catch a license #. Hispanic guy with long hair in a pony tail and a goatee

if you are a habitual smoker, it'll take a month to get clean. As an occasional puffer, I took a urine test 48 hours after puffing and came out clean...I wasn't even well hydrated. Some internet research said it takes about a day, day and half to get a clean test if you have a clean slate. Knowing most readers of this slate have a clouded slate, it'll take a month to get clean. The tests are good at showing who is habitual and can't stop, but not good at catching people who prepare. Be sure to be well hydrated the morning of the test, and make sure your first sample isn't the first one from overnight.

Just talked to Mike Stewart. He's out in Tahiti right now on that epic swell and is calling it 15 feet Hawaiian right now. Check out some of the bombs here:

More shots can be found on Tim Mckenna's website.

My nephew Matt is a nice young guy who had the pleasure of sitting in a chem suit in 103 degree heat while the scuds flew overhead during the first day of the Gulf war. He can also bench press over 300 lbs. and is fairly deadly. We were so happy when he survived that we flew him out San Jose and spent a weekend in Santa Cruz. Matt and I surfed that place that 3-5 considers sacred ground and when we walked to the lot, a few locals crowded around and said 'see you next weekend.' I mentioned it to Matt later and he was pissed. The locals didn?t know how close they came to testing their macho attitudes.

I have a lot of pictures of a blonde kid in Santa Cruz who surfs better than most of us will ever dream about. He surfed at the spot while his mom took video. Some of the locals surrounded his mother and got in her face. How courageous to intimidate a mother shooting video of her son. Now there is something to be proud of while protecting sacred ground. Fortunately, she didn't back down.

I'm a touchy-feely middle aged guy who doesn't surf that well but enjoys taking photos of great surfers and watching young people get involved. 25 years ago I was a deputy sheriff and police officer and thought it was pretty cool to have 120 mph high speed chases, point a gun at someone, or wrestle some guy to the ground and send him to jail. Eventually I realized it wasn't the answer and I left for graduate school. Two of my cop friends died within a year. One was run over by a semi and the other was killed by an ex-felon with an automatic rifle.

So perhaps you can understand my frustration at mindless localism and aggression. There have been many times where I had to suppress anger you can only imagine. Instead, I like the simple concept of niceness. Kids learning to surf, old farts swapping lies in the parking lot, young rippers getting better every time you see them, sunrises, dogs on the beach, sea lions, and all that non-aggro stuff.

I'd hate to lose it.

9-13-05 somewhere on the North Shore (assholes):

Definitely DOH+ sets from tropical storm Nabi. Hope we get some of this tomorrow.

Nice words, Bruce.

Nice Bruce... And great pic MSG

Bruce,

Seems to me you are purposefully turning a blind eye to the effects of exposure. Not surprising, given that you seem to like to snap pics. I do, too. But I don't roll up to places ML and set a tripod down. That's fucking stupid.

As for the vibe you got otherwise, what I'll offer is that this isn't simple-minded, pointless, macho bullshit your encountering -- it is in fact mindful, purposeful activity by people with a vested interested in not seeing the place they surf turn into the kind of over-crowded nuthouse most of the SC breaks are.