« summer... ooh ooh ooh oohh | Main | Gifts from the South Pacific »

All your waves are belong to me

Searching for swell expression.
Is it here or there?
Darkness blankets the streets.
White-water indicators.
The same ladies do their ritualistic jog.
The same dogs piss on the same hydrants.
Onshore flow into my face.
Cool oceanic breeze.
Where art thou oh waves of lore?
I wish to summit thee and ride thy crenulated breast.
Mysterious, you lurk in unsuspected corners.

e - you are the Byron of the sea

"I wish to summit thee and ride thy crenulated breast."

Bravo maestro

Posted by: Burnt Reynolds at September 15, 2005 10:11 AM

You are on the Way to destruction

You have no chance to survive, make your time.

Posted by: Cats at September 15, 2005 10:15 AM

crenulated breasts at Ala Moana Bowl yesterday

Posted by: mig at September 15, 2005 10:25 AM

sweet island kine barrel

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 10:31 AM

Dropped into a few chunky dark corners last night. Windy, choppy, meaty, short, fast, steep, grinders. Fun. Nice writing E.

Posted by: Dennis at September 15, 2005 10:40 AM

Anyone have any surf/wave pics to share from the hurricane on the east coast?

Posted by: amigoism at September 15, 2005 10:48 AM

Posted by: bbr at September 15, 2005 11:00 AM

oo nice one. filters rule.

Posted by: bagel at September 15, 2005 11:04 AM

E,

I hope the pissy nature of the blog doesn't bring you down at times. I really enjoy coming here when I'm trapped in my cube at work. It's like hanging out after a surf with the boys shooting the shit. It's what I've always dug about this site and your groovy words of course.

for the record: I never said Bruce wasn't a nice guy. Seperate the issues. Be free.

I'm out with a nasty cold, just as we get waves. FARK ME!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 15, 2005 11:14 AM

Apparently this gal's name is Katrina, who knew.

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 11:14 AM

Thursday is Aloha Only day

Posted by: Burnt Reynolds at September 15, 2005 11:15 AM

Best way to silence the haters is to ignore them.

Do not engage.

All your base are belong to us!

Posted by: friend #1 at September 15, 2005 11:19 AM

After this AM's session, I confirm that only good surfers get good waves. Also, friend 1 is right - "All your base belong to us!!"

Out to Anacapa Island this weekend to kayak and spearfish. Never been to the Island or spearfishing before so it should be very interesting. Talked to a friend who speared a Big-eye tuna there many years ago while freediving in 60 ft of water!!! Based on my Ab diving experiences, 20 ft is my max so Ill probably only get some Rock Bass. Hopefully I come back Monday, in one piece with some stories!

Posted by: traut at September 15, 2005 11:27 AM

Is Moss breaking on this swell?

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 11:28 AM

Posted by: Coincidence? Not! at September 15, 2005 11:31 AM

traut, i'd bring a board with you if you can. i was on a channel islands dive boat trip years ago and bummed that I didn't have a board. enough said.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 15, 2005 11:33 AM

Posted by: It never end! at September 15, 2005 11:33 AM

Hokay now, evahbody HULA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
And the hype goes on ...
I saw my buddy Juan last night. He had just got in from the North Shore. I asked him how it was the last couple days; he grinned and shuddered, sweeping his hands waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay overhead. This is from a guy who grew up surfing Puerto and rips double-overhead days at Ocean Beach on teeny-tiny boards.

Posted by: Jimmie at September 15, 2005 11:36 AM

The winds have officially died.

YIPPEEEEEEEEE

Rejoice!

Oh and those guys that surfed Chopes the lasst few days have nuts the size of Texas.

Gone surfing!

Posted by: Kaiser at September 15, 2005 11:38 AM

Spot naming anon trolls are vile rotten scum.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 15, 2005 11:45 AM

What's the deal w/ Jova & Kennith? Waves? In our window?

Posted by: Matt Adler at September 15, 2005 11:47 AM

some very good waves somewhere, some really lousy surfing. i think my last wave was a barrel, which i have come to recognize by the distinctive "clobber, lift, drop" sensation.

Posted by: kloo at September 15, 2005 11:49 AM

ophelia pic from a few days ago. n. fl.

Posted by: rza at September 15, 2005 11:51 AM

Posted by: rza at September 15, 2005 11:55 AM

oh yeah

Posted by: mig at September 15, 2005 11:56 AM

is it just me or does it seem like its gonna roll from summer into winter. WHERE THE FUCK ARE THE LATE SUMMER OFFSHORES!!!!!

Posted by: phil at September 15, 2005 12:10 PM

No hard feelings, 3-to-5. Good people can differ on these issues. Have to admit my skin is a bit thin lately, particularly after a tough day at work. Swimming with sharks all day makes me crave niceness. BTW, I've thought about shutting down my goofy site a number of times. About then I get an email from some kid who saw his photo and is totally stoked. The TTC (thanks to complaint) ratio is about 500:1, but if that changes I'm happy to pull the plug. Also, if people have constructive comments about what shouldn't appear, please shoot me an email.

Posted by: Bruce at September 15, 2005 12:25 PM

I have a feelin' winter is gonna be comming early this year- maybe a cold one.

I get really bummed when people drop names, Maybe it's a little hypocritical being into photography. But I think you can take photos and still keep spots or places on the down low. I think a photo has more allure when it isn't named and there is a mystery about it. However photographers bear a greater burden of responsibility too. A single photo can change the landscape of a spot. There are many places where I just leave the camera at home and err on the side of respect. It's nice to to have and enjoy experiences not looking through an eyepiece too. As much as I dig awesome pics, sometimes it detracts from the experience.

Bruce is a great, selfless guy and take his pics out of the pure fun of it. He shares them with people for free! Gotta say that is pretty amazing. Plus 99% of them are at spots like the Lane, no harm done there. Don't take your site down, keep spreading the stoke!

3/5 still climbing? Let me know if you ever want to go before the winter comes.

Posted by: artifact at September 15, 2005 12:49 PM

Bruce, the Surfhumor site rules. I love sharing the pics with non-surfer friends (here and abroad) who are amazed by the waves and the surfing ability. I especially love the pics from the big days that would exterminate most of us.

Posted by: amigoism at September 15, 2005 12:52 PM

I remember big days at ______. Big, clean, offshore days - sigh.

Posted by: MxRxHx at September 15, 2005 01:10 PM

surfer enviro battle in puerto rico - watch the quicktime movie

Posted by: e at September 15, 2005 01:23 PM

whatever you do at work today, do NOT look at the santa cruz cams. my work productivity is now shot.

Posted by: rza at September 15, 2005 01:40 PM

Oceanside and Dana Point buoys now show 4 ft 20 sec 200 deg, that's about 6 hours ahead of us...

Posted by: blakestah at September 15, 2005 02:52 PM

damn you, darkness!!

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 02:55 PM

Surf is still big today, a tad smaller than yesterday, but the winds are vicious. Sooo uncommon to have this much wind this time of year, it is supposed to be calm and glassy.. only if.. this could have been the swell of the decade here in town. Good surf everywhere and lots of smiles and tired arms. Get to a south facing break this weekend and you'll be pleased. Aloha. Bagus

Posted by: Bagus at September 15, 2005 02:56 PM

"net congestion - the Surfline player will restart in 5 seconds"

Posted by: Should have got the pay per view for this swell at September 15, 2005 02:57 PM

Today DP: Good and getting lumpy.

Tomorrow DP: Goin' to be as sweet as her.

Posted by: Hb at September 15, 2005 03:17 PM

get me out of this town

Posted by: bagel at September 15, 2005 03:25 PM

Somebody set us up the bomb!

You are on the way.

Posted by: friend #1 at September 15, 2005 03:26 PM

hot french tv newswoman.. YES!!

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 03:29 PM

I grew up a few blocks from ob in the early 60's I didn't surf then, not many people did. The sunset was a lower middle class hood and not many of my friends would have been able to afford boards and wetsuits, which were expensive at the time. I recently surfed sloat for the first time, although I've been surfing for a while. Caught some nice ones, but the amazing thing was sitting in the lineup across from the zoo and thinkin about the times as a kid we caused shit at the zoo, and the hot days we swam at the big pool, the days we skimmed from Taravel to the cliff house and back. I dig this blog.

Posted by: former Sunset kid at September 15, 2005 03:35 PM

Thanks Hb and anonymous. I wish I could still speak French.

I'm gonna dialate my pupils and get in the water 2 hours before sunrise tomorrow. I've already scheduled the sick day.

Posted by: steve at September 15, 2005 03:50 PM

uh huh? yup, accident? yeah? 20 people dead? hmm yup, women and children? tragic..yes yes..so sad..

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 03:53 PM

I would not kick her out of bed for eating crackers. Cool story former sunset kid.

Posted by: bagel at September 15, 2005 03:55 PM

Hey steve I would forget tomorrow morning it's like a 7ft high tide.

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 03:58 PM

yeah.. thanks for posting former sunset kid.

Posted by: e at September 15, 2005 03:59 PM

she's fucking smoking

Posted by: bbr at September 15, 2005 04:05 PM

french girls, fine wine, i lost control, i busted a nut, i lost my mind...

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 04:17 PM

Damn. All ferries going to Anacapa have been cancelled due to the swell. Guess Ill have to crowd a lineup somewhere..

Posted by: traut at September 15, 2005 04:17 PM

do you ever hate that there are guys who think more about a girls ass than the wave they should be seeking.

Posted by: mia at September 15, 2005 04:20 PM

Bagel, why else would she be there?

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 04:20 PM

agent orange! yeah!!

and thanks to all surf forecasters for spreading the virus that makes tomorrow a 'sick' day. i am truly grateful for your services.

Posted by: rza at September 15, 2005 04:34 PM

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20050915/ap_on_re_us/katrina_dolphin_rescue

Dolphins Lost During Hurricane Rescued!

--

Thank goodness.

Posted by: outearly at September 15, 2005 05:26 PM

Sir or Madam, are you implying that all she would be doing in my bed is eating crackers?

Posted by: bagel at September 15, 2005 05:55 PM

I saw Katrina and the Waves in a pub in Cambridge in 1984. She could sing (prolly still can).

An Old Fart Speaks.

Posted by: J at September 15, 2005 08:10 PM

Good to see people are back to getting along again.I WAS GETTING TIRED OF ALL THE CRYING. Amazing what some potential swell can do!!

Posted by: at September 15, 2005 08:57 PM

Just drove the coast and the South is showing.

Vince Broglio three hours ago at the Lane. Mr. Broglio is incredibly humble and high on the niceness scale. But watching this guy surf is like going to a Rolling Stones concert.

Low light- sorry the shots are fuzzy.

Posted by: Bruce at September 15, 2005 09:16 PM

Hey guys,

Who scored today? I hope the south still shows tomorrow. Spent the whole day with the folks down in Monterey and Carmel. Man, I hope I didn't this south.

Posted by: MSG at September 15, 2005 09:25 PM

South's pumping... sunset session was super crowded with everyone dropping in on each other but somehow enough for everyone to get something and good vibes in the water to boot. Better than a solo session with no waves. just watching the sets come through ruled. Get some!

Posted by: Walker at September 15, 2005 09:37 PM

don't believe friend #1's lies - ALL YOUR BASES ARE BELONG TO ME, BEEEEEEEITCH!!

Posted by: j at September 15, 2005 10:28 PM

Good night.

Posted by: 5.0@195 at September 15, 2005 10:57 PM

Hey Bruce,

Nice pics. Thanks for the post.

Posted by: MSG at September 15, 2005 11:02 PM

aww shucks.....the first niceness board in a long time and I had to miss the discussion. Its so much nicer withthe positive vibes! And Bruce, your site has never made me want to surf SC, i decided long ago its too crowded and competitive but I love to look at the pics and admire the cool green water and kelp. seriously keep up the good work.
peace

Ps E your writing never ceases to amaze me

Posted by: antman at September 15, 2005 11:39 PM

if vince is so cool why is he so blatantly burning the other dude in the pics above?

Posted by: mk1201 at September 16, 2005 07:57 AM

Bruce,
nice shot of vince.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 16, 2005 08:13 AM

Scored? Yes and no. More no. Drove some to somewhere sort of crowded but not impossibly so; fun looking waves with monstah sets every 20 minutes. Dry hair paddle, wait five minutes and the first set comes through. Catch the third wave just right, beautiful, glassy drop, carve up to the lip (man i love this board), down with speed, see the wall ahead---do i pull out? but it's getting really hollow...oh, what the fuck---hang on into a big glass tube for about a second, after which I get munched, banged on the bottom, thinking, "hmm, one could get injured this way," pop up none the worse, but the board has a big hole in the bottom. Eat sand on the belly ride in. The end. Damn it.

Posted by: kloo at September 16, 2005 11:08 AM

Skunked at OB last night. Drifted two miles in two hours. Paddled for about twenty waves. Got one but quickly got pounded. I just couldn't get past the ledges and chop last night. Reminded once again that I suck.

Posted by: Dennis at September 16, 2005 11:16 AM

Macking South Swell, Check.

Nill winds, Check.

HMB Jetty with 200 of my friends. Priceless.

Posted by: Wedding Crasher at September 16, 2005 11:20 AM

Seems like e's the smart one...

i think bruce has got some of the best lane shots around not to mention notable photos of other locations. i would personally be super bummed if you took it down bruce, not that you would...

ex:

Posted by: bagel at September 16, 2005 11:21 AM

slates vs. dane is up!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 16, 2005 11:32 AM

I ws just gonna post that 3to5. Yeah. I'm working hard...

Posted by: Dennis at September 16, 2005 11:35 AM

Dark. Morning cup of coffee. Drive to "secret-ish" point, me and a buddy are the first two out with the phosphorous (sp?) lighting up our hands in the dark with each paddle. Sketchy not knowing how big the swell is when you can't see yet. Huge 10 wave sets every 20 minutes, more than enough to go around. 20 people show up within the two hours of being out there, not bad considering the 500+ around the corners. Niceness out there by all. Laughs. Hoots. No drop-ins. No stinkeye. Got some looonng red-tide rides, caught inside on some, beautiful foggy morning. Happy but sad sitting at work knowing what is out there.

Posted by: Hb at September 16, 2005 11:39 AM

Slates first wave... a clinic.

Posted by: dano at September 16, 2005 11:44 AM

Slates did it again.

Posted by: Dennis at September 16, 2005 11:51 AM

dano,

send me a local update at three2fivesetsof7@yahoo.com.

my eyes and ears are in Kauai. thanks.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 16, 2005 12:12 PM

I cant even think of what im missing or ill cry, but hey at least OB still sucks!...any one have any tips to make my webcast work better..those things are equaly frustrating as they are great..like a lovah..

Posted by: bagel at September 16, 2005 12:21 PM

Bagel,

Most problems are congestion related. Sometimes from the server, sometimes locally. Not much you can do other than try to increase your bandwidth.

Posted by: Dennis at September 16, 2005 12:24 PM

Today, George Bush was asked his opinion of Roe v Wade. His resposne; "I don't care much how people get out of New Orleans as long as they get out."

Posted by: Dennis at September 16, 2005 12:28 PM

Posted by: at September 16, 2005 12:36 PM

Posted by: at September 16, 2005 12:37 PM

3to5, check your inbox.

Slates and AI are clearly the best at this contest from what I have seen. Swell is really inconsistent too. Kind of a bummer.

Posted by: dano at September 16, 2005 12:38 PM

I missed the fucking Slates heat! Damn.

Update with CEO is sweet when Slates is ripping Dane a new one.

Bagel, try the lower res versions. The high bandwidth feed doesn't connect for me but the medium one is all sweet.

Yesterday at lunchtime was solid. Glad to see the beach open for business. Too bad we had some crap ass winds today. There is lots of juice out there, find your slice of the pie and be stoked.

Tomorrow will be a zoo.

Posted by: Kaiser at September 16, 2005 12:43 PM

After surfing.

Posted by: at September 16, 2005 01:06 PM

Congrats on the occupied barrel, kloo! Sorry about your board, though.

Me, it's been a long time since I've gone over the falls on a 5-6fter. Kookery!

Love your site, Bruce. Laughed out loud for some parts, jealous for others. Secretly relieved looking at the wipeout photos.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 16, 2005 01:18 PM

sweet, having more luck with the medium..damn that phil mcdonald.

Posted by: bagel at September 16, 2005 01:22 PM

Just got back from a south spot. Light offshores to glassy, small peeling waves...big sets were too inconsistent, but it felt REAL good to surf well-shaped clean waves with a coupla friends and no one else in sight. Lotta effort to get there and back, though....investments can be rewarded.

Spoke to some people shooting pics/video at the contest. They're having a BLAST.

Posted by: blakestah at September 16, 2005 01:53 PM

I've been surfing all day too. My mouse clicking finger is killing me.

Posted by: Dennis at September 16, 2005 02:24 PM

I was out south of lindy and north of SC yesterday and witnessed an incredible takedown. Two dudes were paddling onto a right, each about 50 feet apart. Both make the drop and turn right, both rip it up. Grumpy ripper catches up to the dropin guy that I admit did snake the wave, however, it was from a large distance on a crowded day. When he catches up, he reaches over and lifts the guy off his board and slams him into the water. They exchance unpleasantries.

It is amazing how a little swell for the first time in 2 months has just about everybody a bit edgy out there. I scored just a few good rides on some perfect waves and enjoyoed myself, however, I will take slop and chop on a solo day vs big time crowded on an awesome day.

Next time I drive 5 more minutes to enjoy isolation...

Posted by: jardinee at September 16, 2005 02:32 PM

I love soccer!

Eastside SC this morning was a zoo.
Westside SC was less crowded and bigger.
North of SC was crowded too. Surfers coming out of the woodwork. Still, good times.

Posted by: steve at September 16, 2005 03:01 PM

Sooooooooo fun today! Life is good.

Posted by: at September 16, 2005 04:06 PM

grrr

Posted by: at September 16, 2005 05:14 PM

Ditto on SC being a zoo. Got out of water at PP after getting frustrated w/ crowds (i'm part of the problem ;0 ) and drove north to a place that kiteboarders like. Wasn't bad, vibe wasn't full on there.

Posted by: jp at September 16, 2005 07:27 PM

another ditto. westside sc less crowded, bigger. surfed a spot near there that i'd never seen go before. nice to have some overhead waves, finally break out the semi. 2 guys. eastside mobbed, but consistent sets, & lots of fun. good day of waves. hope the wind doesn't pick up too much...

Posted by: jfo at September 16, 2005 07:43 PM

What is missing in our sport such that waves of incredible quality are going mostly unridden under a full moon right now? And what about a no moon swell? If you make money on this idea put it back into the sport.

Posted by: msurfer at September 16, 2005 09:22 PM

hey ya'll, drove south but not as far as " name of crowded surf city here" saw lots of swell but lots of wind with cleanup sets and lulls and weird warbly conditions. finally settled on a very crowded spot closer to the city by the bay and got a few, avoided the main peak, had fun.

Posted by: antman at September 16, 2005 09:52 PM

sweet mollusk flash pieces

http://www.allaboutsurf.com/common/fvideoView.php?

Posted by: at September 16, 2005 10:40 PM

just got out of the water.

Posted by: at September 17, 2005 03:04 AM

Everyone went to sc, so only four guys on a peak last night south of the city. Well shaped small waves-slight sideshore/offshore winds, nice rides.

Posted by: former sunset kid at September 17, 2005 09:45 AM

Fun reef waves again up north....of me. Swell dropped a coupla feet already. Red tide gone. Chatted with a dude I recognized from the south bay breaks riding a fish. Good rides. Too many funboards and fat dudes on longboards though.

I couldn't even see the ocean there was so many black suits at M*libu and T*panga as i was driving by at 9am smiling,

I realized that I love beach breaks so much better even if you get shorter rides. Just the unpredictability of it is more fun.

Whatever, i am work so i am ramblin'. Hope you all score the score this weekend.

Posted by: Hb at September 17, 2005 10:10 AM

crowds scmowds. I surfed without seeing another surfer in the AM. Now I'm the only one in the office.

Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at September 17, 2005 01:32 PM

"Rojas, owner of malibulongboards.com and a surf instructor, said that him and his crew of 6 other surfers have know about the huge waves coming in since Monday..."

Everything that is wrong about surfing is in that article.
FUCK YOU. TWICE.

Posted by: LA Times article at September 17, 2005 04:28 PM

ok. i'll get angry about that later.

clean but smaller today (yesterday evening's ding repair wasn't necessary; shortboard would've been the call), and more crowded at the obvious spot. but i got my share (i.e., approx 1/50th of the pretty sparse waves), and more importantly didn't kill or get killed in that zoo. i have to say people were very well-behaved despite lots of occasions not to be.

Posted by: kloo at September 17, 2005 06:01 PM

Good fun today at a very crowded Eastside SC spot. I got there at 6:20am and I grabbed the last parking spot. Some giant sets coming through intermittently. Looked more consistent at the other well known break a few blocks west. I caught a couple of overhead waves on my fish. Sweet... If I had any real skillz I would have been able to make it around the section. Oh well.

BTW, my Bonzer finally came in at Palm St. Surf Shop, but it didn't have Lokbox fins like I asked or the resin tint, so I declined to purchase it. If you are interested in picking up a 6'8" 12x19x13.5", 2&5/8 Campbell Bros. Bonzer, send Barry at Palm an email (surfinsriguy@yahoo.com).

Finally, all you Wilco and Widespread Panic fans should check out the Farm Aid Concert being webcast live starting at 10:30am PST tomorrow. The url is embedded in my name.

Posted by: steve at September 17, 2005 09:31 PM

Man, this was swell was the biggest let down of the year: Friday, I got skunked across the Bridge and back. I ended up not even getting wet cause the surf sucked. GOD DAMMIT! And when are they winds turning offshore? They were howling mad onshore today.

Oh do I pray that October brings us Indian summer conditions at O.B.

Posted by: MSG at September 17, 2005 10:35 PM

I like the internet.....it tells me when and where to go surfing with all my friends.....

Posted by: at September 17, 2005 11:27 PM

I like the internet.....it tells me when and where to go surfing with all my friends.....

Posted by: at September 17, 2005 11:27 PM

I like the internet.....it tells me when and where to go surfing with all my friends.....

Posted by: fool at September 17, 2005 11:28 PM

Actually, I just call Wise and listen to the report. Have been for many a year...

Posted by: surfseeker7 at September 18, 2005 11:12 AM

-only a test-

Posted by: Latronic at September 18, 2005 11:37 AM

Yes! Slates gets a last minute 9.07 ride, that MacDonald passed up, to take the BMP win.

Posted by: steve at September 18, 2005 04:48 PM

brewin' an IPA and watchin' football. oh the wild and crazy life i lead.

Posted by: j at September 18, 2005 07:02 PM
Post a comment

Thanks for signing in, . Now you can comment. (sign out)

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)


Remember me?