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beautiful day.. a few waves too.

late-night chillage threatened dawn-patrol reveille.
body snapped up anyway and i made the rounds.
OB bigger and blustery. doable but you'd be workin'.
i continued driving along the coast but didn't see anything.
Back still irked but on the road to recovery..
Tomorrow surf.
Tonight Tortoise at Bimbo's (kick me an email if you're going to the show)
cranial_bulge@yahoo.com
Slates lost to Pattachia yesterday at Restaurants in Fiji.
Irons beat Tom Carroll.
Cory Lopez beat Fanning.
Neco lost.
We need some good waves around here.
The scrappy conditions may be enough to quell the jones.. but.. we need some tapering, glassy lips to improve our games. preferably at OB.
Caveman gave me the idea to go on a little "abbreviated" fast of sorts.
No sugary foods (candy, muffins, sodas, cookies, etc.)
No fried food
No red meat
No alchohol
No ganja

My goal is to make it to the weekend!! ha! but.. seriously.. just going yesterday without my midday M&Ms, and then without my post-work beer... was fucking rough! crazy.

also.. anybody do Palates? I know that strengthening your mid-section is really good for assuaging muscular back issues.. any thoughts?

restaurants - fuck yeah!

Thunders

Telescopes

indo - mo' fo'!

indo


the 2nd to last photo......you can tell the drop is sick. but check the duck diver and the dude above him......doing everything they can to keep their eyes on him for a s long as they can.

check the wake under his board...that water will beat him to the bottom. that's the best.

Lances Right? HT?


Posted by: tom at June 2, 2004 10:42 AM

Checked everywhere in our region yesterday, junk. A place in HMB was working, but looked like a LOT of work. Settled for wind-chop-slop-lindy. Some guys were killing it on the inside! Anyway, nice day. T-minus 2 weeks for Oahu.

Posted by: Ian at June 2, 2004 10:45 AM

lances right and HT's are two names for the same spot.

Posted by: at June 2, 2004 10:50 AM

e...glad to hear that the back is feeling well enough for you to be checkin' for waves! sorry to hear that conditions denied.

funny that you mention the "diet". i'm simply tryin' to avoid booze this week and that's hard enough! amazing how entrenched we become in our habits/rituals. there's something very therapeutic about a beer at the end of the work-day and it's surprisingly tough to go without! hmmm...can't wait until Friday! ; )

Posted by: ck at June 2, 2004 10:56 AM

I haven't done Pilates but know a girl, who lives near the beach, that was going to do a pilates course for surfers (i.e. do the workout while balancing on some sort of balance board or something). Her email address is peg@elevationpilates.com. I would be down on signing up for a few sessions. Perhaps if we get enough people we can get a group discount.

Posted by: traut at June 2, 2004 10:57 AM

no shit.

Posted by: tom at June 2, 2004 11:01 AM

funny you mention the "diet" E, I am doing the same thing this week! no hindu kush until the weekend.

although you would think I am on a diet from surfing the way things are going around here. gonna have to search out that south in the next few days.

Posted by: barney at June 2, 2004 11:06 AM

major post-long weekend, warm water, fun little glassy waves cubeville depression today....three cups of coffee, a glass of juice and a protein shake later and my mind is racing, my gut is full and my heart is yearning to be anywhere but here...well, anywhere but here, a hospital bed or the midwest i guess...life ends at the rockies, right?

elias - if you're reading this i'll be dropping you a line later today, sorry for the delays.

anyways, rock on. yosemite this weekend for a little flyfishing and escapism with a buddy from denver who's in town this weekend.

Posted by: j at June 2, 2004 11:10 AM

Tubes

Posted by: at June 2, 2004 11:20 AM

Do men provide good advice to female surfers? SurfHumor has a new resident expert on the topic!

http://www.surfhumor.com/silly%20stories.htm

(Thanks Sharky- You're way cool)

Posted by: Bruce at June 2, 2004 11:23 AM

Great stuff, sharkbait!

For the record, it wasn't me who said waves are squares. I'm still not sure of their exact shape, as it is very difficult to tell while somersaulting back to the beach underneath them.

Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 2, 2004 11:35 AM

ss...too frickin' funny! nice work. Bruce...thanks for pointing out ss's fine prose!

Posted by: ck at June 2, 2004 11:37 AM

Yo, what up e? Let us know if you try out palates. As you mentioned, a strong core is rumored to help prevent back issues. Yoga might be a better call than palates if you had to do one or the other since yoga increases your flexibility too (and balance). There are lots of postures in yoga that will increase your core and back strength (e.g., boat pose). Whatever you end up doing, it's about dedication to it.

Also, I read sometime ago in one of the mags about varying how you paddle at times. That is, the traditional short-board arched-back paddling style places a lot of stress on your back. The article mentioned lifting your feet at times when paddling to get your back straighter on the board... kind of like you can do on a longboard. Obviously, this is a little more difficult with a short board since you don't have a lot of volume.

I also find when sitting on the board waiting for waves that if you put your feet on the front of the board with your knees up (which sinks the front end of the board and raises the tail out of the water) it lets you stretch out your back a bit (a little like yoga's child's pose). It's nice to do if your back is feeling the pains of surfing out in the lineup.

No surf for me today. In the landlocked East Bay.

Posted by: dano at June 2, 2004 11:40 AM

I tried both Yoga & Pilates after a knee reconstruction & the ensuing 4 months without surf. Neither did it for me - it was probably good for my body - too tedious for my head. I fought with my brain the whole time. Now I've been doing Tai Chi for almost a year. Tai Chi, unlike Yoga or Pilates (or Chi Gong) does not hold poses, but is all about continuous slow movement. Its based on 3 fundamantals - Deep breathing, Shifting your weight from foot to foot, and turning your waist - all 3 are arguably the most vital skills for surfing. You do it all standing up, so you're working balance the whole time. And you hold your arms up & move them in various ways, which is good for shoulders / paddling muscles. It has definitely improved my strength & balance and thanks to the deep breathing, I haven't even had allergies this year - first time without sinus trouble in about 20 years - since high school. I go to class one night /week and practice on my own almost every day. Its great to sneak in 15 minutes of practice on the beach checking the surf before a session - warm up, calm down, and get stronger all at once. Joe Bob says check it out.

Benny

Posted by: Benny at June 2, 2004 11:55 AM

e - I've done Pilates during the course of physical therapy, while recovering from injuries. Some of the exercises are fairly intricate and really require professional guidance and monitoring until you've got the routines down-pat. Pretty remarkable results can be seen over time (several months).
On my own, I still rely on a very basic daily yoga routine and some daily ab exercises to keep myself flexible and fit between surf sessions. Lately I've been flakin' on both, while I've been struggling with this on again/off again back pain. Too much yoga and the over-stretching causes my back pain to flare up - too little yoga and I lose flexibility and my back pain can flare up. Same goes for the ab exercises: too much strains my lower back; too little and my gut stops providing adequate stability (a kinder way of saying I start looking like Homer Simpson). Struggling too find that happy medium.
Good luck on the diet this week - it's good to clean out every now and then. My downfall is always salty starches - chips/crackers. I'll eat a bunch o' that greasy-kid's-stuff knowing that I'm gonna feel trashed afterwards - it's gross!

Posted by: Jimmie at June 2, 2004 11:56 AM

pilate rules!

Posted by: bagel at June 2, 2004 12:07 PM

cool.. thanks everyone for the tips and advice. Benny, Tai Chi sounds (and looks) rad.. i'd definitely like to give it a try some day.

Sucks about your chronic back issues jimmie. Luckily my back issues seem to be more muscular and centered within my mid and upper back.

thanks dano for the stretching and paddling tips. word.

yeah.. the "diet" has been interesting, psychologically.. this morning i already felt fresher and more mentally acute.. i think the feeling was largly psychosomatic.. but still.. it was there. Going to a show tonight without imbibing in any hibbage of the chronic variety will definitely be a change of pace for me. I'm kind-of psyched to explore the sobriety trip at a concert.. hmmm...

ss (sharky) - cool story.. right on!

Posted by: e at June 2, 2004 12:12 PM

rad story, sharkbait.

yoga's always straightened my back problems out, thought the tai chi thing sounds enticing, benny.

getting more frequently sinus turned respiratory infection from the dirty water. any good rinses / prevention for this?

Posted by: gvibe at June 2, 2004 12:21 PM

did the fiberglass hawaii run today. looked at the spots on the way down, board and suit ready.... no dice. i was hoping that a little preliminary south pulse would be awaiting me, but alas, the falafal house was the only spot serving it up, well besides THE JETTY! i think i saw EGP on a 12' skip frye surfing 1' perfection.

aight, hope everyone gets some of this south and that the winds cooperate.

peace

Posted by: elias at June 2, 2004 01:29 PM

SOS- SOS HELP!
Can somebody get this dude off me? back and forth back and forth blah blah.. farking turning me to splinters! its been 12 hours a day for weeks! whatthehellaisgoinon with that ocean?? the JD and Ricky N laugh from the corner rack while I am whittled away! for the love of God- someone-KILL THOSE WINDS!

Posted by: steama's Indoboard at June 2, 2004 01:42 PM

sharky, rock on! i'd trace the shape of an exclamation point right here, but you know how complicated shapes can be. :)

all's well to the north...moving hell is at an end and i'll be back at OB early next week. blakestah, please tell me there will be something left of the coming south swell on tuesday AM...

have fun kids!

Posted by: friendly to the north at June 2, 2004 01:51 PM

Word on the south. Small early pulses for about 6-7 hours already in SoCal. Should be some trace of it by sundown tonite. But, it will fill in more overnight, and continue to grow into tomorrow afternoon.

But it will not matter at spots exposed above 300 degrees - windswell will dominate. Better get used to it.

Posted by: blakestah at June 2, 2004 02:15 PM

benny - thanks for the tip on tai chi, sounds very complimentary. i love seeing the old chinese women doing their thing out at ob in the mornings.

e: good luck with the fast. i noticed that you didn't list coffee. i drink a double most days and often wonder how it plays into my upper back issues. most health professionals seem to discourage it - anyone received specific advice?

also, a friend of mine was told that some of his back issues might be a function of inflamed adrenal glands, which affects the area around the kidneys. i'd never heard of such a thing. anyone know anything about adrenal glands and how they might play into muscle/ligament/joint pain in the back?

Posted by: loon at June 2, 2004 02:49 PM

Do you think there are some instances when a little aggro behavior may be appropriate? I was surfing the Coliseum on Sunday. It was fun but very busy in the slot with a low WSR (wave-to-surfer ratio). I tucked up near the point and got a handful; two that walled up really sweet.

There was this one guy who dropped in on at least half a dozen guys, maybe more. Totally blatant and purposeful; not even a lame attempt to pretend that he didnít see the victims. He finally dropped in the wrong guy who gave him a friendly shove off his board. Words were exchanged but it stopped there. I felt a little guilty pleasure over the incident. I mean the guy was so rude and his behavior put others at risk. He almost burned me once but changed his mind. Must have realized what a MACHO guy I am (or he was probably concerned about running into a 200-pound, 48-year old speed bump who surfs like Shamu on speed.)

Whaddaya think?

Posted by: Bruce at June 2, 2004 02:56 PM

disheartening news for lovers of Oregon's forests

For Immediate Release: June 1, 2004
Contact: Annie Strickler, (202) 675-2384
Ivan Maluski, (503) 243-6656, (503) 449-2270 (cell)

Bush Administration Finalizes Plans for Destructive Logging in Oregon
One of the Largest Timber Sales in Modern History Slated for
Spectacular Wild Forests

Medford, OR -- The Bush administration today announced its final plan
to implement one of the largest commercial timber sales in modern
history in the Klamath-Siskiyou region of southern Oregon, one of
America's wildest, most pristine places. The Final Environmental
Impact Statement for the Biscuit Fire Recovery Project calls for
logging 370 million board feet of wood while largely ignoring the
immense values of recreation, wildlife habitat and clean water and the
need to help protect communities from future fires.

"Instead of focusing resources near Oregon communities that are
threatened by wildfire, the Bush Administration is pushing a divisive
and harmful policy that drastically increases logging in the
backcountry far from people's homes and businesses," said Carl Pope,
Sierra Club Executive Director. "There is a better way. We can
responsibly manage Oregon and America's National Forests and protect
communities and our nation's wild heritage."

The Bush administration has proposed what could be one of the largest
timber sales in modern history. The plan would:

∑ Log 370 million board feet making this the largest timber sale in
modern U.S. history.
∑ Log 150 million board feet in more than 8,000 acres of inventoried
roadless areas.
∑ Log 170 million board feet out of old growth reserves (this does not
count the old growth reserves found in roadless areas)

Planning a massive logging project in the Klamath-Siskiyou region to
date has cost the US Treasury at least $5.8 million. According to a
recent study by the non-partisan group Taxpayers for Common Sense,
logging in the Siskiyou Wild Rivers Area will cost taxpayers anywhere
from $3 million to $100 million depending on how many trees are
actually cut. As an example, a logging plan that cuts 300 million
board feet of timber, less than what the Bush administration
originally proposed, will cost taxpayers $36 million.

"Despite spending millions of dollars of taxpayer money on planning
and implementing a destructive and controversial timber sale that will
reap benefits for the timber industry, the Bush administration's plan
fails to provide funds and resources for communities threatened by
fire," said Pope. "That money would be better spent helping people
protect their homes and businesses."

Out of 22,856 public comments received on the Forest Service's
Preferred Alternative, 95 percent opposed an extreme amount of
commercial logging. However, their final plan released today
represents one of the largest timber sales in modern history and will
mean more than 90,000 logging trucks leaving this spectacular area.
The Forest Service also largely ignored suggestions by conservation
groups and concerned citizens that would begin important restoration
work, create jobs and help protect communities from future wildfires.

"The Bush Administration's vision for Oregon's National Forests is one
where we log across the landscape before, during and after wildfires
no matter the costs and impacts," said Pope.

The Klamath-Siskiyou region is home to remarkable biological
diversity, making it one of the most unique regions in North America,
and richest temperate regions in the world. A high concentration of
wild and scenic rivers - including the renown Illinois and Rogue
Rivers - and their tributaries contain some of the most valuable
salmon and steelhead runs in the contiguous United States, providing a
critical refuge for wild fish populations at risk of extinction. The
area is part of the larger Klamath-Siskiyou Region and the proposed
Siskiyou Wild Rivers National Monument.

There is considerable scientific evidence that "salvage logging"
increases erosion, impairs streams and other wildlife habitat, causes
additional damage to forests made more fragile by fires, and can
actually increase fire risk due to the buildup of hazardous fuel and
slash left by logging operations. In fact, trees downed by forest
fires provide habitat for wildlife and nutrients needed to help keep
forests healthy.

Posted by: e at June 2, 2004 03:26 PM

e,
i recco a good massage/accupuncture session(s). if you need a refferal i've got a great practicioner. she is magic. i say all the sugar, white flour, coffee (not coffey), and additives are what's bad in your world. a little thc at the show can't hurt.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at June 2, 2004 03:26 PM

If you've seen one redwood, you've seen them all.

Posted by: Ronald Reagan at June 2, 2004 04:03 PM

i know a guy whos been a vegitarian for 15 years but all he eats is nachos with veltiva, ice cream, and Dr pepper.

Posted by: bagel at June 2, 2004 04:05 PM

Funny that everyone is talking about back/shoulder pain today -- I just went for my first acupuncture session at lunchtime today (amazingly, it's covered under my insurance!). Too early to tell how it worked, but my shoulder tendonitis seems a little better this afternoon.

Anyway, here's the weird thing. After the needles, she asked me if I'd ever had "Cups." Well, I'm game for anything so I said OK. She takes these glass orbs that have an open side like a jam jar, puts some burning cotton inside to pull out all the air and then suctions them onto the aching areas. Didn't feel uncomfortable at all, but it left these round hickey bruises kinda like I'd been in a fight with a vacuum cleaner or some alien sucker being. Check it out.....

Hmmm...... it felt pretty good, though

Posted by: limevoodoo at June 2, 2004 04:07 PM

anybody get a look at lindy this afternoon? winds killing it? any chance?

Posted by: need to surf at June 2, 2004 04:14 PM

cupping! kinda like spooning.. but.. not really..

Vision without action is a daydream;
action without vision is a nightmare.
- japanese proverb (found inside the cap of my iced tea bottle) - non-sugary iced-tea that is

Posted by: e at June 2, 2004 04:20 PM

We also talked about diet. No sugar, alcohol, caffine, spicy food, smoking, or red meat. All those things add to your body's heat because it has to eliminate the toxins from your system and consequently they slow down the healing process.......

Posted by: limevoodoo at June 2, 2004 04:31 PM

hey lime voodoo, want your old job back? he he he

E, that Oregon stuff just pains me to hear. Went to school at good ole' U of O and have spent lots of time in the Klamath-Siskiyou region. Beautiful area for sure, so sad to see such a great expanse taken over by the bush clan. Although I am confident some of the old hippie guard from Eugene will be putting the loggers to the test when it comes time. Very passionate environmentalists up there.

Posted by: barney at June 2, 2004 05:06 PM

damn those bruises look nasty lime. shlindy report anyone?

Posted by: luke at June 2, 2004 05:20 PM

anyone up for the sf-sc the challenge tomorrow morning? i think i will be going for it.

blakestah, if you could only go to SC for dp one day this week, TH or FR, which would you choose?

Posted by: loon at June 2, 2004 05:26 PM

Here's what I've cut out of my life for 2 weeks (after a 6 day liquid-only cleanse): chocolate, caffiene, alcohol, sodas, products with refined sugar, dairy products, nuts, fatty foods, red meat, eggs, shellfish, breads, etc. Been eating a ton of organic fruits and vegies, tofu, fish, miso, etc.

Tough to get past the first few days - more just the habit/routine of grabbing a beer after work, hitting the cheech, etc. But I definitely feel a lot more energy after 2.5 weeks. And it's good to get the body cleaned out once in a while...

Posted by: caveman at June 2, 2004 05:43 PM

caveman...that's intense, dude! especially the 6-day liquid-only cleanse. did you really eat NOTHING for 6 days?! deeamn! you're making me feel like a serious glutton! ; )

e...that's one deep bottlecap.

Posted by: ck at June 2, 2004 05:57 PM

E, you should do real hardcore fast, start off a few days at a time, e.g. don't bail on all of the naughties, slowly leach them out of your system, then do a real fast e.g. copious amounts of water with cayenne, maple syrup, lemon coctail. Research the fast and do it right, you'll get all glowy if you do it right like after primo session.

Story: When once on tour, I met this girl, and she had just started a 30 day fast on her 30th birthday, and we hung out for two weeks, she did everything and had tons of energy, just drinking the above coctail, I never saw her eat, and then I went away for a week, and came back and we hung out for another week, and the whole time she still wasn't eating, she was like some magical creature (which she was/is) that never ate.
Also, and though it ain't pretty to think about, a light fast, followed by more longer fasts, and then the biggie one monthy (you still can surf and do it, so much of it is mental), is good and heightened when followed by "colonics". While the thought is somewhat uncomfortable, people who have done it tend to highly rectomend it...

Keep it pure, if you get the diet right, and you already have the niceness perfected, you will become lighter than water and be a big wave in a lil' body.
Buena Suerte...

Posted by: hee hee at June 2, 2004 06:33 PM

Friday. South may still be filling in a little in the morning. Wind gradient is forecast to back down, so probably Friday or Saturday will be the best south day.

This south was unusual in generating swell over a long time period. We got like 5-6 days of something south in the water. Unfortunately with the winds I doubt it will be THAT large.

I drink 5-6 double espressos a day...

Posted by: blakestah at June 2, 2004 07:06 PM

I gave up booze for over a month earlier this year and that cleaned out some toxins ho yea. A challenge fo sho. This would be a good time of year to do a deep cleanse, cause you'd likely be giving up some energy and with these waves even if you're romping it sucks and even if you suck catch a couple and you're romping. I think we have to sacrifice a virgin to the wind gods. Mebbe a bottle of virgin olive oil, or some virgin wool...

Posted by: banjo at June 2, 2004 07:18 PM

no coffee makes your farts not smell so bad

Posted by: bagel at June 2, 2004 07:21 PM

I just got back from Safeway. I'm going on a Ding-Dongs fast - nothing but Ding-Dongs and Coke to purify my system and get the toxins out.

I'll probably cheat and have some coffee though...

Posted by: blakestah at June 2, 2004 08:30 PM

Hey folks, alas no post or surfing I'm stealing a moment for niceness when houseguests are gone. Thanks for the story compliments..was dubious to tell it because the other surfer was a pretty cool person. But all the squares and triangles and rectangles were just too funny!

I've had to give up caffeine for over two weeks. Never drank too much but tough breaking these habits....that morning cuppa, ahhh. Supposed to eat less chocolate but HA no. Is everyone here doing spring cleaning?

Surfing again Friday on...Friendly, etc folks feel free to drop a line. Cheers!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 2, 2004 10:50 PM

sc is flat. swell died overnight. go back to sleep or go to work.

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