waves. Not epic, but... waves
After a late, post-band-practice "Football Schmootball" viewing last night I was ready to charge some overhead barrelling waves this morning, preferably just like the Pipeline waves in the movie. With visions of cavernous Backdoor tunnels floating through my head i pulled up to the illustrious VFWs and gawked at the "sickness" laid out before me. Waist to shoulder-high spineless windswell peaked and peeled up and down the beach. Yeah! It certainly wasn't Backdoor, but it's the best i've seen OB in about 6 or 7 days. A pack of about 7 or 8 surfers huddled together in front of the beach chalet. One guy slanked into ride after ride along the weak, piddly sections (the only ones on offer). Somehow he managed to snap, pump and maneuver, even when all the other surfers around him were barely getting to their feet. I paddled out to my own peak a ways south and was initially flummoxed by the girth and additional weight of the wetsuit. I felt much heavier on my board, but i also felt impervious to the frigid water. My hat goes off to all those responsible for the advancements in wetsuit technology. I ended up sniffing out a handful of enjoyable sections, mostly just nibbly/squirty little ramps. Lewis and Bird were out there and Lewis managed to punch the top off a few racy lefts. nice..
soo.. the wind was coming out of the south this morning. The sea surface was alright at the beach. pretty smooth actually. There is a 0ft low tide around 11am. sooo.. lunchtime heads should deal accordingly.
albert reyes artwork (from fecalface.com)
tight tube....
Posted by: kahuna at May 25, 2004 10:20 AMWay to fight the flummoxation, E!
Posted by: steama at May 25, 2004 10:50 AMGoodonya for getting a few added to your endless April/May wave tally.Wave is a wave no matta where ya catch it.
Howsabout some more CA photos? Cheers,S
Donavon Frankenreiter tonight at The Independent
Posted by: barney at May 25, 2004 11:17 AM13 at the door
starts at 8
hey steama,
how come you spend more time on this site than in the water?? just kidding..
your board should be here next week:)
sf
Posted by: sf at May 25, 2004 11:30 AMwould you...
A)only want to surf perfect waves?
or
B)surf every wave perfectly?
Posted by: tom at May 25, 2004 11:32 AMA.
best and only waves ive had in almost 2 weeks this morning, fun even.
Posted by: bagel at May 25, 2004 11:37 AMOB: My bad, I'm faking this post from the south bay, but yeah it was kinda fun this morning. If the winds hold it should be allright - a few mushy peaks, 3-4 feet, occasional heads, rare 6 footer. Short rides, mellow. Looked so small I took out the longboard, tired my arms out [D'oh], ran in later and brought the shortish board out for kicks. Funny feeling the difference on two totally different boards in the same session. Good day for goofing around like that.
Tom's option B, by a MILE. Heck, mediocre B would be fine.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 25, 2004 11:47 AMi'd like to surf perfect waves perfectly.. every day.
Posted by: e at May 25, 2004 11:50 AMBIRDS THAT SKATE DEPT.
In Australia, male bowerbirds build these cool halfpipes so they can get laid.
Posted by: Dr. bad breath at May 25, 2004 11:58 AMI would want to wave perfectly to every surfer
Posted by: kant at May 25, 2004 12:06 PMI got a new board! I got a new board!! It's a lightly used 8' Pat Taylor funshape. I took it out this morning, 9:30-11:00 at OB, where it was getting pretty small (waist-high?), weak, and random, but still definitely surfable. I hung out at an outside break by myself and nabbed a few pleasantly long, if uneventful rides.
I'm happy with the board: all I can compare it to is my first board, which is a 9' performance longboard. The funshape is only a little harder to paddle, and it seems just as easy to catch little waves with, and just as stable. There wasn't much to do with these waves once up besides trying to keep from stalling out, so I can't yet compare maneuverability.
Posted by: Klooless Kook at May 25, 2004 12:30 PMi don't know if Trout reads this site anymore. but.. This morning he was telling me a crazy story about being burgled in Peru, then beating the guy up, then having to hold his friend back from killing the burgler, then having the burgler throw punches at Trout, then Trout breaking his hand when punching the burgler..
or something like that..
Trout??
Posted by: e at May 25, 2004 01:02 PMKK. Good move on the choice. It'll help you get up to speed. You'll probably want to get more radical (shorter and narrower) in 6 months or maybe even next year-possibly sooner depending on the amount of time you spend in the water, waves permitting. Once it starts to feel sluggish turning on head high waves compared to what you're trying to do, you're ready to get a new board.
Posted by: Dennis at May 25, 2004 01:08 PMFun small waves today. Well, fun is relative, but it is the best we've seen in weeks! Tomorrow may be similar. Really good setup at the north end at that VFWs/Chalet type place where e said he surfed this morning.
Posted by: blakestah at May 25, 2004 01:20 PMcool. see ya at pacheco tomorrow.
Posted by: Pacheco Local at May 25, 2004 01:28 PMwoo hoo!!
Posted by: bagel at May 25, 2004 01:37 PMfrosted mini peaks....
i surfed!!! so nice to get wet after a 4 week hiatus. surfed the exact same spot e surfed and stah mentioned. sea surface had deteriorated somewhat, but i had a blast. hunger is the best sauce as they say in france. 4 or 5 fun little zippers and the final wave actually had a nice steep takeoff that gave me a nice grin. can someone tell me how to deal with the loss of paddle stamina that happens in a measly 4 weeks???
Posted by: jdz at May 25, 2004 02:04 PMYo e, Im here, only because im addicted to your site. Your on target with the story. I briefly wrote in about the event when I got back but didn't mention the near killing, which was the gnarliest part of the story. Just to clairfy this bit of the story, a dude I met down there (who was once in Attica for stabbing someone while riding an escalator in a east coast shopping mall), came to help me out with the burgler after I had spent some time choking the burgler and fleecing his pockets for any of my belongings. We both then proceeded to punch and headbutt the burgler just to get our point across - No burglers allowed. Then, my friend whipped out an appel decorer and was trying to drag the burgler into the shower cuz he wanted to kill him. I then had to fight off my friend (with the help of my roomie who had been sleeping throughout the entire event) and get the robber out of my room. When I threw the robber out, he still wanted to fight and threw a puch at me. I dodged the punch and landed a left and and a right. That is when I broke my hand. Robber then proceeded to stumble back to the beach and we prepared ourselves for an onslaught of other locals (which luckily never showed up.
When I posted the robber story earlier, CK gave me a shout out hoping that the robber got what he deserved - i.e. karma. Unfortunately I got the worst of it (broken hand but no punches landed on me nor was anything stolen). Robber didn't even look fucked up the next day (total bummer as everyone in town now knew the story). However, he did come up to my crew and apologize - which was good cuz he was part of the local bandito/nightlife crew.
Anyway, good to finally get back in the water. Ripped the cast off on Saturday but was supposed to get it removed today. Got a couple fun waves and some how managed to stay on the board even though I forgot to remove the tropical wax from the fish, didn't have any cold water wax and forgot one of my booties at home. (Damn, after rereading this posting, it seems that Im a weak punch throwing, gimped out, tropical wax using kook ;)
Posted by: traut (aka trout) at May 25, 2004 02:10 PME, who do you use for web hosting? Seems like you site works quite well and I need a good recomendation.
Good thing to make it out today. I managed a short session at vfw and it was even better than it looked from the parking lot!
Posted by: jardinee at May 25, 2004 02:22 PMYou mean better than bagels's photo?
Posted by: at May 25, 2004 03:12 PMjardinee.. niceness is currently hosted by soldier of techno-fortune Matt "Sky" Walker, aka mwsf. He hosts it on a linux (free bsd?) box at his house in the Haight. It's served up over a standard dsl connection with a static IP.
Posted by: e at May 25, 2004 03:43 PMFela Kuti rocks
currently listening to "Shakara"
Posted by: e at May 25, 2004 04:00 PMtraut.. that story is farking gnarly. geez.
glad you're ok and that nobody got killed.
tomorrow could be a good day to whip out your fish or little pig board that you've been saving for those "small, gutless summer days" that in reality rarely materialize at OB.
I aquired this 6 foot, 80's style piggish shortboard thing in el salvador. It's about 3 inches thick. we'll see how it goes manana.
psyched.
Posted by: e at May 25, 2004 04:09 PMe...that sounds a lot like a buddy's board that i used at Schlindy a couple weekends ago in crossed-up schlop. 6'1, blunt, thick, flat (on top and bottom), and circa 1984. it was a blast! totally glided through the mush without boggin' down. i can't wait to hear how it goes for ya!
Posted by: ck at May 25, 2004 04:17 PMtraut, about 5 months ago Bill Hickey (bless his soul) told me that tropical wax is all you need here if you wear booties, and that it helped keep things clean because the tropical wax is much less likely to smear off. I changed immediately, he was completely correct, as usual.
I've been riding this board he made for me trying to find its weaknesses. I have nothing to report yet. He's the wise sage of surfboard design. I gave him length, width, thickness, and explained about the rotating fin, and he made a sweet board to go with it.
Posted by: blakestah at May 25, 2004 04:22 PMthat sounds pretty similar ck.. i'll let ya know how it goes.
i'll be at my local tomorrow if you want to see it in action and maybe try it out.
word
Posted by: e at May 25, 2004 04:22 PMBill Hickey's boards also have killer airbrushing. I almost bought one off-the-shelf one time. it was just so beautiful looking.
Posted by: e at May 25, 2004 04:28 PMi wanna try it. i'll let you have a ride on my fish.
Posted by: steamwand at May 25, 2004 04:36 PMe...thanks for the killah offer. don't yet know if i'll be rallyin' for the dp manana, but if i do i'll look for ya! i'd be psyched to swap for a wave or two and hear your impressions of the Surf Rx that i picked up after snapping my CI. hasta.
Posted by: ck at May 25, 2004 04:41 PMkeep the wave, drop the boat
Posted by: at May 25, 2004 05:09 PMshrrraaallllpppp
Posted by: at May 25, 2004 05:11 PMoff the bottom.. hard.
Posted by: at May 25, 2004 05:17 PMJust got back from a short trip to Maui, managed to sneak in a few sessions along the SW coast. Primarily small reef action, not that it matters when the water is 78 deg. Met some wonderful locals, so much nicer than folks here when you show a little respect.
Anyhoo, I managed to buy a good used board there and sell it back before I left... much much cheaper/easier than flying one in. If any Maui travelers want the details, feel free to throw an email out there and I'll fill you in.
Also mahalo E for all the great stories, next time I see you at the panhandle bring your A game and your dunkin shoes :)
Posted by: ryan at May 25, 2004 05:17 PM
Posted by: bagel at May 25, 2004 05:18 PMtony hawk
Posted by: e at May 25, 2004 05:34 PMa.i. and his lady..
Posted by: at May 25, 2004 05:37 PMBill and the board. I cannot recommend Bill too highly, but be warned. All his boards are
1) glassed to last with S-glass
2) gloss coated
3) hand painted
4) Use his handmade fins
5) beautiful
He started shaping in 1956 with wood. He saw the introduction of foam and glass a few years later, saw longboards get short, get multiple fins, and shaped the entire time. Just an amazing person as well. Unfortunately my digital camera sucks, you should really see the board to appreciate how beautiful it is.
More Here
Posted by: blakestah at May 25, 2004 06:33 PMHey, Was anyone out at 4:30p.m. today, I wanted to go after work, but my body was so wrecked and the report so weak that I didn't, and I have to get out soon, but maybe tomorrow at the same time if you thought today was doable....
Posted by: hee hee at May 25, 2004 06:39 PMthicker than water soundtrack... sick, especially good on micro san diego surf daze like these.
Posted by: gvibe at May 25, 2004 07:23 PMNot Tony Hawk
Posted by: dano at May 25, 2004 08:08 PMTomorrow...
Posted by: dano at May 25, 2004 08:10 PMthanks for posting the fecalface.com shit..i always forget about that site..and i like reading the report from you and ethan, even though i'll never have the balls to paddle out at ob...
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