E's Surf Report

lets kick it off with a socially (surfably) acceptable shot of the fine female form --kk in france over the weekend

An RFS review, preliminary, from Lloyd at Surfvid.com. He has my funboard now. It is a 7'9" funboard, Hinds, with an unusual double concave bottom (not too deep, though), fairly flat rockered, wide point forward, 21+ inches wide.
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i got an opportunity to try out the fin on a longer board yesterday. i tried his 7'9" mini-mal in sloppy waist-chest high conditions at a local
break. though i could only test it in what the waves brought, i liked it. i seemed looser than a trifin on most waves, it did bite well and turn sharply on the few chest-head high waves that i had the opportunity to take late. i was able to get up to the nose and the board held same as a regular single. it worked well in turbulence as well. that's my first impression out of about a dozen smaller waves. i need to try it in something more substantial to see performance in juice.

garbage time. the only thing uglier than the surf last weekend was the lakers last night.

taking an extended weekend this week, 5 days down and around piss-hole. hopefully the waves cooperate at some point.

E-

I read you blog with some regularity and enjoy it.
I appreciate your ability to be thoughtful about sexism. Most men never get that far. Since you seem willing and smart enough to question shit, perhaps consider that the desire to treat another as an object/thing is not "primal" at all, but a learned behavior. As a parent, it is clear to me that children are not born with an understanding of sexism (or racism, for that matter).

Damn, I was waiting for that post which reads the following: "Got up, ran out to the corner in my boxers and it looked decent. Suited up, hit it up around K-Jam and it was surprisingly fun with random chest-high sets. Corners for sure. Slinked into a few good rights, one good off the top...."

But, I guess I didn't need to be jealous this morning since it sounds like the beach is still tore up.

As for the weekend, I made a little voyage down south with CK and his lady-charger. We checked the coast early on Saturday and there was a clearly defined line of wind abatement just around HMB area. South of there, it just kept improving. South of Ano, it was becoming more and more surfable. We found a little cove offer a nice left and right reef-ish break. We all headed out to the left and proceeded to get our fix in. I got about 5-6 rides on 3to5's egg that took me all the way to the beach. Super stoked after the long layoff this past week.

We got another sesh later in the day at Da Hook. Wasn't nearly as "friendly" as up north but still good to be in the water. Of the 5 waves I got, I suffered from 4 drop-ins, 2 by a father/son combo. On all, I had picked off a sweet wave and rode for about 50-60 yards with someone 3-5 feet in front of me. What a pisser.......

Now some fruits and veggies:

surfmama - nor have children passed through puberty. nor are children conscious of a remaining hint of ancient biological tendencies to procreate their race, and more specifically, their own tribe at any cost. children may not be born thinking about these issues, but they certainly seem born with the seeds of "primal" thinking that eventually ripen and grow into a full fledged procreation machine.

i would turn your conclusion on its head and then agree with you. ever consider that the "primal" urge disregards individual feelings in favor of life? and that the learned behavior is to label that primal instinct as "politically incorrect"?

just food for fodder on a surfless day.

shucks, no one procreates for "their race"...that seems a very non-Darwin concept. But brains do devolope with time, hormones and such queueing up rad changes in the grey matter throughout life in responce to triggers in the environment in concert with triggers coded for in that crazy DNA and scheduled to go off at various points throughout life...ah, evolution baby. Our media and other agents of possibly not so healthy global-culture do seem to tweak the hell out of us, but don't our evolved, time-release bodies play a role in gender/sex perceptions too? You're both right! maybe the key is to be open to ALL the role-players and then work within that great big framework to find successful ways of interacting without bothering the nighbors and to our greatest health and happiness as a social whole?... er, or something

OB: not entirely surfless, there's a couple of folks snagging really quick rides in crumbly waist highs. Optimistically shoulder highs on occassion if you're short enough to make it relative. Overall it's sparse. Cloudy/foggy, medium light onshores, and a massive bird feeding frenzy. Pelicans, seagulls, and what are those smaller, short-beaked dark birds?

Dano - you're back from Mexico. Stories? Pics?

i really can't tell you exactly why i'm engaging this, but work is not cutting it for me today. my intention is not to pick an argument with, to criticize, or objectify any person on the face of this earth, but only to be the impetus for a little healthy deconstructive thinking of the "politically correct" socialization that begins to occur the minute we are born.

thinking back to days these lands were inhabited by some nomadic, some agricultural, and other native american tribes, to days of tribal warfares and the struggle to keep your tribe alive and prospering, to the days "cavepersons" (oh god, i even use the politically correct moniker for "cavemen") belonging to different tribes faught for food and geographical hunting rights, it would almost be impossible to say that persons "procreated" without the intention of continuing their "race":

definition of "race": "1) A local geographic or global human population distinguished as a more or less distinct group by genetically transmitted physical characteristics. 2) A group of people united or classified together on the basis of common history, nationality, or geographic distribution: the German race. 3) A genealogical line; a lineage. 4)Humans considered as a group.

definition of "procreate": "1) To beget and conceive (offspring). 2) To produce or create; originate."

survival of the fittest? indeed.

i think i was born with the primal instinct, i remember touching myself at an early age and enjoying it....

wait, did i just say that? oops.

I for one will contunue to support the Reef Corporation.

Got three pairs of their sandals as is.

Sick thing is their products suck.......and I still keep buying them!

the drive to procreate is centered squarely in our genes, no where else...no desire=no reproduction of that set of genes. a gene that creates a desire to procreate, all other things being equal, gets reproduced. Here's a thought that blows my mind: each living thing currently making its living here on earth, has a line extending backward to some watery beginings, storms and lightning, of ancestors that never failed to reproduce before dying. It probably sounds stupid, but those that didn't reproduce are no longer represented in the gene pool. you touched on kinship in your first post, which is fascinating stuff, but limited to fairly close kin in terms of helping to support a 'clan.' the concept of a clan or tribe or neighbor is in our heads (because of our ancestry in small groups in a very dangerous savanah setting where to be a part of the group meant survival and to be separate meant death--the genes that didn't care about the group aren't with us anymore), but it doesn't drive procreaction. the gene does. if my genes told me to act for the good of a tribe at the expence of my own wellfare, I'd be a really nice guy and folks would dig me and all my nice offspring, but over time my genes would disappear as genes that promote their own reproductive success took over.

My genes are represented in a given percentage in my sister, therefore, in a nutshell, I'll want to help her success. We are a partial team. that percentage quickly thins out as we move farther from nuclear family. No one procreates for their "race," even if they have been told they do.

and 'race' is a term once founded on the idea that a 'x'race is genetically more similar to another 'x' than a 'y' (say, Frenchman to frenchman more similar than frenchman to mbuti pygmy)...this theory was just ducky for policies like eugenics that ran rampant in our not-so-distant past, but now that we've got techniques for actually measuring gentic similarities we know that any given frenchman is more genetically similar to any given mbuti, than he is to his french next door neighbor...so 'race' is really pretty defunct. 'ehtnicity' seems much more useful. whew...

'ethnicity'

When I ride THE JETTY
I only go on RIGHTS

hmmm...i'm not gonna touch this whole "procreate" thang right now...nor anything else for that matter. (i'm at work afterall! ; ) though...i gotta say that j's post above ranks up there with my favs!

on the slurf scene...as Kaiser mentioned, we scored some fun, nicely shaped, albeit small nugs somewhere south of SF and north of Mexico on Saturday. i had a blast trying out Kaiser's Coffey "modern" fish. had some troubles adjusting to it at first, but once i got my groove on it was a blast! nice and fast down the line with pretty sweet paddle glide! mucho gracias, amigo! then, on Sunday, with my drivin' capacity all burned out, my lady, a buddy, and i hit Sliz for a utility sesh in truly junktacular conditions. we had fun...but more due to the sunshine, the jellies, and the laughs as we hunted around for ANYTHING rideable! still...any day in the water with kewl folks is a good day in this kid's books!

hope y'all scored some. peace.

damn.. thanks ben and darwin (and surfmama).. Could Darwin be the ghost of recently deceased evolutionary biologist stephen jay gould? and maybe "ben" a mere psudonym for "meme" architect Richard Dawkins?

a question: how can the activity of surfing be tied into evolutionary theory? Improved sex appeal? honed aquatic abilities which aid in food aquisition? Relaxed, centered mind which leads to heighted sexual and general sensitivities?? hmmm...

or. is surfing completely frivolous, unproductive and counter to any survival-of-the-fittest evolutionary contraints?

or. does the activity of surfing simply have nothing to do with evolutionary theory.

have we, as a species, surpassed the survival pressures of evolution, at least for the time-being? It seems that many of the poorest, least-materially-well-off, least "fit" humans on the planet today are the ones reproducing the most offspring and hence procreating their genes.

We had a friggin' blast off the point at the playground this Saturday. Hit it early and shared a nice peak with only 3-4 other peeps. They are not great quality (overcast day) but I got a few phun photos at http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%2010.htm. Couple of samples:

perhaps some of you could come join my clan. you can sleep on my floor and I'll give you fruitloops. in return all i ask is that you watch my two kids for a stretch so I can go surfing. it's for the good of the clan, right?

Saturday morning (low tide) I headed pimpward to catch the south swell, but tried to avoid crowds by driving a half-mile down the beach. It was good size, consistent, clean, but absolutely all close-outs. Maybe the crowd knows something after all. Then in the afternoon I took my 10yo out on his bodyboard at Lindy and joined him for clean, consistent 16-inchers a few feet from the beach.

This week I want finally to get a second board.This very helpful guy at Wise was adamant that I should move at most down to an 8'6" funshape; I've been riding a 9' performance-shape longboard. But I'm far too stupid to follow that advice, so I'm looking shorter, but still a funshape or hybrid, not a short-board yet---as a concession both to summer waves and to my kookishness.

... And I want to get set up to fix the dozen dings on my first victim. There's a big delamination, plus a buch of leaky cracks that don't seem to "give" when you poke 'em. So, thanks to some links from here & google, my plan is to try to bake the thing dry in the sun, fill the delam with laminating resin, sand down the gloss resin over the cracks, re-coat with gloss resin, sand and polish. (The instruction pages talk a lot about filling and glassing the dings, but my dings are just small cracks that don't seem fillable unless I were to rip them apart; and any extra glass would sit pround of the surface.)

Anyway, I'd be grateful to know where I can get resin and stuff around here? I'll be in Pacifica this afternoon---does one of the shops there have supplies?

i think human powered activity that put's us in a natural environement brings out our primal decisive instinctive state. the same state that we used hunting and gathering. slithering and sliding. surfing contributes to the evolutionary theory as it excercises the instincts otherwise quelled by media, office, george bush, honey-do's, etc. AAARRRRGGGGHHHHH!

that's why body surfing nekid is so fun.............AAAAAWWWOOOOO

opps i meant "bodysurfing".

hear hear on the nekid bodysurfing!

Bruce...nic shots of what sounds like a kind score! KK...any surfshop should have that stuff...and, typically, in a convenient all-in-one container. however, many hardware stores also carry the basics for much less $$. Tapp (sp?) Plastic in SF has a reputation for being the bomb.

as for surfing and its link to human evolution/the survival of the fittest...i think it has very little to do with gene propogation. afterall...it is a risk sport and thus, all else being equal, increases your risk of demise and, with you, your genes. however, i do believe that it reflects a basic need of all beings of higher intellect...the need for fun. for instance, one could argue that dolphins and seals first learned to surf waves to ease transportation or to increase speed in the pursuit of prey (or the escape from predators). however, that would not explain why they hang out in line-ups scorin' epic ride after epic ride. they have big brains in need of stimulation and what better way to stimulate your brain than gliding effortlessly in a liquid pulse of energy? same for us. jmho.

kk, most shops have repair kits reasonably priced. don't fix your board inside, too many bad chemicals.

waves?
no waves.

bagel, send a email again, my computer melted this weekend and so did your email.

aight. good dreaming to everyone.

e--I don't think there is anything involving 'life' that doesn't have to do with "evolution"...we're still passing on genes, no?...it's just that the environment in which reproductive pressures are shaped has changed, so there are constantly new circumstances to take into account, but there are also relative constants in regards to what we and our neighbors are as evolved critters... in our current world state things are reeeaally complicated with the interaction of cultures/societies and mass-market input, new weapons, new medicines, new levels of struggle and trying to work out our small-scale heritage coming in contact with large-scale scary stuff as our technology evolves faster than our bodies.

I'm not sure that many of the environments we've created for ourselves are good for US, for us as the rad critters we are. If you take a sample of pretty recent history (say, ten thousand or so years) and look at the changes in food gathering and how sedentism and agricuture have affected our interactions among ourselves and with the rest of the world you can see a jumping off point from which technology and changing our environment ramps up, factor playing off factor for thousands of years until we've got cubicles, lots of depression (this is weird, a real red flag, indicative of something out of step in our lives, and not necessarily treatable as our psychologists have been approaching it, that is, without looking at us as animals that have a history that goes farther back than what we've labeled history in exclusion of prehistory), lots of actions & interactions that don't seem to make sence if we assume that here and now is the one-and-only reality of human life, the place of 'destiny.' uh, so I think I'm saying that surfing makes perfect sence as a way of accessing some of what we've lost, the self-reliance, the wilderness, the life lived in direct contact with the rest of the world as opposed to boxed off in cars, homes with right angles and trucked-in materials, packaged food, 9-5 work days. Surfing 'sells' because it IS sexy, because it is so HUMAN next to the standard american life--a society that is so far from healthy, from what really sooths our minds, makes us tick... maybe this is why we say rather lamely, 'dude, surfing is the ESSENCE' and then trail off without ever really explaining ourselves in any complete way?... geez, gotta work. sorry if this is super lame, this stuff if tough to talk about under the best of conditions--internet snippets don't really work.

oh, and yeah, doing things that are dangerous in return for greater procreative opportunity is actually really common--male peacocks strut on the fine line between getting the peahen and showing every predator within eyeshot where to find a good meal, rams butt heads, lots of species fight for control of a 'harem,' black widow fellas often get eaten after sex. in some cases surfing fits this very well, although probably as just one of several reasons for the activity, and conciously or not. I've heard stories of non-surfing guys driving around with surfboards for the cool factor! (danger avoidance plus the paybacks at singles clubs?)

and one time, at band camp...
self-censure in effect now, sorry...being a big nerd is not so good for the ol' reproductive effort, nor for clan membership. back to the waves, folks, sorry

A.I... evolving

to atone for the pics from the other day, here's one of a girl throwing buckets...

sorry if any wahines were offended. dano made me do it...

Made my way down to the east side of south on Saturday and got some really fun chest high waves. The northwest wind was blowing offshore and at times, not at all. I left my house at 4:30 am. Still, there was a crowd when I reached my destination at 6:05.

Some 6 wave sets came through every now and then. The patient person that would wait outside got some nice waves without competing.

I'm thinking about getting a boat, hauling sandbags down below Fort Funstuff and building a nice little reef. I'll let you know if it works...

Dennis could you throw some over in those little coves below the headlands? it'd be nice to have a little right over there..

I'm totally psyched cuz I'm going to Kuaui for 9 days starting this Sunday. I can't wait for sore ribs and sunburn-below my neck! It's been at least 7 years since I surfed without a full wetsuit.

Just got a camcorder too. Maybe I can talk my wife into getting out of bed early and taping me riding a few waves.

I'll be staying on the south side at Poipu Beach, about and 100 yards to Shipwrecks and not far from Brennecks. It's about 15 miles from Infinities too I think. Water temp 77. Air temp 76 at 4:15 AM. Yeehaaaa.

Bagel, I'll have to just so my reef won't get too crowded. How bout a round one? We can call it Bagel Reef.

Surfing a complete sphere? No paddling? Sign me up. So there OB! Humans win againnnnnnnnnnnnnn!!!

that name is awesome! thanx dennis.

do you think we can get it to look somehting like this? ill pitch in for extra sandbags if you need em..

ha ha:

that Bay-o-plenty is too much!! so frickin' fine. put me down for a few sandbags as well!

Sometimes OB looks like that.

posting this waaay late, but it's been busy dammit. Hit it bright and early monday and it was doable. Not great but beats the hell out of not going out, like everyone else failed to do. The size was little, but it had a little size, even. The joneses was satisfied. Later.

Ethan,

Have enjoyed your site for a couple years now, thanks for keeping it entertaining and full of sweet pics. Only improvement I would request is taking it easy on the language. There's only so many f works I can take. Its really one of the ugliest words I know. There's a thousand other words you could use. I like showing my 12 year old sweet pics occasionally from your site and I have to quickly fly by the dialogue due to the many swear words. Just something for you to consider. Thanks.

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