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waves.. a few whacks

Got up early again and found some waves. Nothing killer but I sneaked into a cadre of satisfying sections. The swell seems noticeably smaller than yesterday. The bigger set waves weren't as intimidating or crunching. It was also kind-of a bummer that the long waits between good waves made the crowd dynamic slightly tense. No arse-hole vibings or lame chicanery or anything of that sort.. just everyone justifiably desirous of the limited nuggies rolling in. There just weren't that many rideable waves coming through. Luckily i was out there on the early tip and achieved minimal satisfaction levels (read: 3 good ones) before the crowd descended. One turn in particular is pleasant to reflect on.. Just a run-of-the-mill head-high wave that gulped out as i took off and then offered a fresh, flirtatious lip.. all puckered and begging to be smizzacked. Soo.. i did the honors and dutifully crouched low on my bottom turn and then pushed all my energy and speed into banking as high as possible off the lip. It felt good to pivot tightly and take a chunk out of the top of the wave.. or.. so i remember it.. to see it on video would most certainly be a rude awakening.. hmm..

soo.. yeah.. then the beach.. i talked briefly with Judith the bodysurfer who said that the beach was glassy and she was headed over there for a session! I checked it on my way back and it looked pretty nasty and daunting. maybe down near sloat it's a bit cleaner?

cool.. good luck out there.

dr.j-would! thanks for posting about baja and san diego! keep us in the loop about san diego sweetness and any scripps institute oceanographic advancements.

gefilte fish, horseradish and matzah for me this weekend.. for anyone that doesn't know the story of passover (when god "passed over" the Jewish homes in Egypt while killing the first born of all Egyptians as a punishment to the Pharoah after mis-treating and enslaving the Jewish people).. it's a classic, gnarly old-testiment saga. Plagues, murder, miracles, frogs, vengeance, pestulence, destruction, death, hail, unleavened bread. All that good shit.

smooth turn

how fun does this wave look!

e-after you got out the water (at least I think it was you) diana mattison paddled out and, man, does she rip. she paddled right to the peak and snagged some really nice rides. no offense to anyone, but she surfed with more style, grace, and balls than anyone else out there. imo.
and maybe i'm biased, but whatever. props to those that deserve them.

Posted by: steamwand at April 9, 2004 10:51 AM

ethan...


yes old testament type—fire and brimstone we call it in
the southern portion of the united states. fear of g**
and all that. many props to you for your dawn patrol up
in and at the butt crack of dawn. the 30's make those days
tough on this once-lad-like surf searcher.....

have been reading this forum for a few months. as directed
here by elias of orange board fame... and ventured a few postings mostly in reaction to beach scatalogical activities
as well.

the words, the exchanges here are what it is about, the surf
the tall tales, the heckling and ribbing amongst friends and
even strangers of the tribe. met blakestah finally a week ago
at sf surf shop. another plug for the fin. RFS is cool. i rode
it a month or so ago....very fun. urge everyone to give it a
go. break the cycle of the 6'6" chip....so many boards so
little time....

great forum...nice work—niceness at work.

now back to work....

may the rabbit bring us glassy teal colored waves....

Posted by: korewin at April 9, 2004 10:57 AM

word.. yeah steamwand. i saw her paddling out so stayed and watched a few waves from my car. I saw her first ride where she took off pretty deep and then just meandered and styled her way down the line.. not trying to rip it.. just reacting and flowing with the wave. she's got skillz.. no doubt. I like her board too.. retro surf prescriptions fish-thing.

i saw you catch some nice ones too steamwand! From behind i saw you hit the lip a few times. I also saw you take off on a shrimpy one and get tangled up on the rocks.. but then 5 seconds later you had disentagled, paddled out a bit, and caught a little inside jobber.. niiice.

Posted by: e at April 9, 2004 10:59 AM

right on korewin.. keep it flowin' homie..

Posted by: e at April 9, 2004 11:02 AM

yeah, and i had a bird's eye view on that powerful lip hit you had. your timing was spot-on.

Posted by: steamwand at April 9, 2004 11:06 AM

angourie

Posted by: e at April 9, 2004 11:23 AM

Horoset:

Finely chop an apple into bits
Handfull of walnuts chop into bits
Handfull of dried apricots chop into bits
Handfull of rasins
Cinammon to taste at least .5tsp
Couple of tablespoons of Mogen David or other fruity red wine. Cali wines work fine too. Mix ingredients in a bowl. eat with matzohs

Happy peasch Ethan!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 9, 2004 11:23 AM

buenas dias niceness heads! wuz up too late last night taking money from caveman, mwsf and others in hold 'em, so i missed the dawney. looks like the winds might hold off for tomorrow and sunday! gotta get a few good solid sessions in before our centro-americano trip. 7 more days!

Posted by: lerm at April 9, 2004 11:24 AM

OB: hmmm the fog is nearly burned off. Light onshores, inside whitewatery, crunchy, crossed up. Outside relatively cleaner, select spots have occasional OH bombs that tend to mush or even A-frame. Some really bumpy stuff of all shapes and sizes in between. A couple of peeps heading out for who knows what? Possibilities along the beach today...?

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 9, 2004 11:25 AM

Arg it's crapping out but Laird and Dave (whassisname? Yes? ) just returned and are towing into peaky DOH's for our lunchtime entertainment.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 9, 2004 11:39 AM

count about 10 heads on that angourie break....where
in the world are the uncrowded waves?

Posted by: big mig at April 9, 2004 11:40 AM

We interrupt this daily blog to bring you the following informative message.

A hold has been placed on Monday for the annual "Men who ride Molehills" contest. The name is ceremonial only, women are welcome as well. Riders who derive the most stoke from the smallest waves will be rewarded with smiles all day.

A hold means that conditions have been identified that make it likely the contest can be held on the date in question.

Stay tuned, the green light and further competition details will be given around 24 hours in advance.

Posted by: blakestah at April 9, 2004 11:48 AM

yeah, but look at that inside reeler with nobody on it. so many waves go unridden. i couldn't even believe how many empty peaks there were at ob last saturday. so much juice just waiting to be sucked. but in the end, i think we congregate just like the cattle, don't we? we really wanna share the stoke most of the time. and this weekend it will be the same.

Posted by: steamwand at April 9, 2004 11:50 AM

big mig.. uncrowded waves - generally one step beyond the immediate comfort levels of most people..

desert of NW oz
feral java and north of mentawais
sharky mozambique and madagascar
desert namibia
cold as fuck rural alaska
nova scotia
iceland
remote south pacific islands and atolls
random philapean (sp?) islands
just around that next corner.
where the road doesn't go.

Posted by: e at April 9, 2004 11:51 AM

The following things suck: being sick and cold spring water. Hey, at least people stay away from you in the lineup.

Oh, listening to some TRS-80... interesting.

Posted by: dano at April 9, 2004 12:07 PM

just got back from a SC dawn mission. surfed upper Swift st. i imagine it has some invented name but anyway....really damn fun, not a big as i was hoping for. biggest sets just a tad overhead. no more than 4 guys out, so that was a plus. super clean and glassy. a bit inconsistent, but i imagine that thursday am was probably pretty similar if not smaller, i think the swell picked up around noon time. i managed to grab several good sets, damn kelp slowed me up from getting a huge barrel that i probably wouldnt have come out of anyway...thats SC surfing/dodging i guess...hope saturday shows some clean OH conditions at the beach...

DB, any comments on the winds. local news is calling offshores, our favorite Bill Marin however said that we wouldnt see much sun along the coast unless the offshores picked up which he doubted woud happen....

foggy, light onshores, textured slop? or mid april miracle...only time will tell

Posted by: dsx at April 9, 2004 12:11 PM

TONIGHT
NW WINDS 5 TO 15 KT...BECOMING LIGHT AND VARIABLE.

SAT
NE WINDS 5 TO 15 KT...BECOMING W IN THE AFTERNOON.

Posted by: dsx at April 9, 2004 12:15 PM

swift street. ya mean "spliff" street?

sounds like a good session.. that wave is fun. I like getchels too.. kind-of in-between spliff streen and mitchells. good on ya..

Posted by: e at April 9, 2004 12:39 PM

christian.. you're the man!

one word: balls.

Posted by: e at April 9, 2004 12:47 PM

christian....welcome back!! nice work scorin' some behemoths....and surviving the smack down!

Posted by: ck at April 9, 2004 01:05 PM

The word on the street. My opinion based on available data.

Offshore winds? NOT. Or, certainly nothing strong enough to impact breaking wave shape.

Sun at the beach. Probably not.

Clean surfing conditions? Definitely.

It'll be overhead tomorrow, shoulder to head high on Sunday and small Monday.

BUT, the forecast is for a nice little 4-5 foot swell for Tuesday and Wednesday, so we are talking NICENESS. Those days, if the forecast comes in, will be super sweetness.

When lows track offshore it often doesn't translate to sunny skies, but the lack of wind is all a surfer need care about.

Posted by: blakestah at April 9, 2004 01:09 PM

niiiiiice blakestah! sounds good to me!

Happy Passover!

Posted by: jdz at April 9, 2004 01:26 PM

wow. the dawnie sounds too mellow for my liking.

my session had a couple of good arguments and a few scoldings. as well as some fisticuffs.....

Posted by: tom at April 9, 2004 01:29 PM

tom.. i assume you hit your favorite corner as the push started?

please describe fisticuff encounter for all us cube-monkeys looking for distraction..

the pace of the waves was definitely getting people testy this morning.. too many people, not enough waves. I saw one of Ryan Farrell's friends checking it on my way out.. i've seen him get violent a few times.. it's ugly.

Posted by: e at April 9, 2004 01:35 PM

yeah some people i had never seen before tried to paddle out so i scolded them, they tried to argue and i smacked them around.

i think they were from some internet web site on a field trip or something.

Posted by: tom at April 9, 2004 01:38 PM

yes mozel tov!

i aint jewish but my dad was adopted and his real parents were both jewish, so im claiming. even if i cant spell any jewish words.

havent put on my wetsuit yet. ive been strapped to this chair all week and late work night again tonight. forgot about surfing. of to SC asap tomorrow.

jimi hendrix rules.

Posted by: bagel at April 9, 2004 01:43 PM

is fort point even a wave?

Posted by: bagel at April 9, 2004 01:51 PM


Good question bagel..

Posted by: sf at April 9, 2004 01:58 PM

Yeah. It breaks on an East Swell and North Wind. Prefers dead high tide. A summertime spot.

Posted by: Oakland at April 9, 2004 02:09 PM

its not a wave! I AM A WAVE!

Posted by: half moon bay jetty at April 9, 2004 02:19 PM

hmbj: you weren't this morning. this bird got no worms. wish i'd followed my instinct when my attention was drawn to hock-away as i drove south. but 9 days of vacation start within hours, if not minutes, and i hope to make up for a one-week draught very quickly.

db: will that TU-WE swell be making it to so cal?

Posted by: loon at April 9, 2004 02:47 PM

Going by direction, it oughta make it to SoCal, easily. This swell will be reasonably locally generated, though, so it will really only create waves about a day before they hit the coast.

Posted by: blakestah at April 9, 2004 02:49 PM

damn, they're sold out of "head high and glassy"

http://www.wavecaps.com/wavecaps1.htm

Posted by: j at April 9, 2004 03:13 PM

what's up niceness! fun to read about the big time swell -- aleutian juice in april, as kaiser put it, right on! i've been trying to be e and been waking up earlier than ever to surf, 5:30 the last two morning to hit super fun super early dawn patrols. starts off full of water, kinda bowly, rippable, feel good sections that race but don't crush with the offshore wind, then it drains hardcore over the next two hours till its grinding and menacing and barreling. no wind: perfect sea texture -- i love when you can look out to the horizon and see all the approaching waves. corduroy. s-word!

surfing meditation: we so often think it's about us, the I -- I'm going to catch a wave, I'm going to hit a big lip, I'm getting crushed, why did you do that to me Ocean? But it's really her Dance, not ours. Waves sweeping in up and down the coast, surfers are just pawns who she might use to accentuate her graceful flow, her dynamic morphing of peeling perfection. try to submit yourself to her dance and see how she chooses to use your presence.

woooord! so tomorrow i'm entered in my first surf tourney ever -- just a little town tourney, but it should be rad! a heat! i'll be a big winner if I advance out of my first one. fun times. have a great weekend niceness!

(e, I'm looking totally clear for a week+ charge to Nic... see you soon bro!)

Posted by: jake at April 9, 2004 03:14 PM

J, E was rockin this one on the DP this a.m. Goes well with the Brown Turd....

Tom, why you always got to regulate? You know us Internet Soft-Toppers gotta surf too. Let us roll with you homie. Make some space in the lineup, we are bro's aren't we?

Posted by: Kaiser at April 9, 2004 03:26 PM

tom's sarcasm is not always obvious.

Posted by: lerm at April 9, 2004 03:47 PM

i was trying to be ironic this time.(internet web site dudes was a reference to this very site so hence the irony and humor)

i think kaiser is being sarcastic and got the joke.

i did not know that the nicauraga trip was soo close. a dedicated dawner with a 9-5 like kaiser would be a good choice to post up the mornings conditions to jump start the blog.....I nominate.

Any seconds? or is the blog just gonna lay down for the month?

aggroville here i come......


Posted by: tom at April 9, 2004 03:56 PM

weekend mo-fos!!

have a good one..

yeah.. i was contemplating what to do for the month i'll be in centro. hmmm.. something is in the works..

enjoy the sunshine headies..

Posted by: e at April 9, 2004 04:02 PM

Sarcasm is the 2nd word I learned right after "Dad". As in "Dad, I need some money..."

Uh, 9-5, I wish. Physically I am here longer. Mentally, I never make it in. Still looking for the sweet DP setup.

Posted by: Kaiser at April 9, 2004 04:03 PM

tom...killah idea! i second for "substitute blog inspirer", Kaiser!! of course....i'm bettin' that the stat-content-to-psychedelic-trippin' ratio of tales to start the day goes down a bit! though....the sarcasm may go up! ; )

jake...buena suerte in the tourney manana!! niceness representin'!

Posted by: ck at April 9, 2004 04:07 PM

OB: my farking bad, as soon as I declared the sun was coming out, the fog returned in force. Jinx. It's big, burly, chunky, and very very foggy. Very mild onshores, barely noticeable. Nobody out but snowy plovers, ravens, gulls, and the sandpiper posse. Happy weekend!

I second Tom's nomination of Kaiser...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 9, 2004 04:07 PM

Posted by: yummy at April 9, 2004 04:09 PM

momma mia!

what were we talking about again?

Posted by: tom at April 9, 2004 04:14 PM

but please oh please do something.

the idea of a month sans niceness is...to put it mildly...disturbing. especially since it'll be my last month of work for a while. and just THINK of all the local/nonlocal, wave/nonwave, tranny/nontranny, assshot/nonassshot arguments that will go unheard! silenced while e and lerm (?) are basking in aquamarine centro glow--!

siiigh. i'm so fricken' jealous. :)

happy weekend, folks!

Posted by: friendly at April 9, 2004 04:14 PM

Personally, I like Yummy's style. Of course, the board might change a bit but whatever.

Any way you slice it, control needs to be left to someone, a few peeps, the masses, etc. Sharkbait is a good choice. Our own weather guru is a good call. If you like sarcasm, Tom and I will do well in that category. Robme can bring the flow, etc. JUST KEEP IT LIVE!

Jakester, kill that shiz man! If you are going left, make sure to go with the "blindness" and pretend my head is smiling on the backside of the lip. Occy-size buckets will win heats for sure! Throw some Vida in my eye!

Posted by: Kaiser at April 9, 2004 04:28 PM

i nominate yummy!

i beleive it was the dali lama who said, "change is good" or something?

i hope i didnt hurt anyones feelings with my view on fort point either. except hmbj and oakland i dont care what they think.

Posted by: bagel at April 9, 2004 05:34 PM

Pepperoni nips.. Places in SC were just going today. Too bad the kelp monster gobbled me up a few times and brought me down to the oceans floor. I'm always worried some kelp will wrap around me and it'll slither down and pull me with it. Two porpoises were playing around in the water. I could hear them clicking. Winds from up the coast were blowing THE most beautiful smell of manure and all types of animal shit from a near by field. Sweet.. I get to work tomorrow morning at 5:30 am. EXCELLENT!

Posted by: Ian at April 9, 2004 06:33 PM

hasta, niceness....i'm outta here for a week for a little Centro Americano trip with my lady-charger!! get ready for epic conditions at the Beach!! ; )

Posted by: ck at April 9, 2004 07:23 PM

One random shot from the Lane. It's working.

Posted by: Bruce at April 9, 2004 09:21 PM

Bruce was that today? Surfed a right that was clean like that, only 1/2 - 3/4 the size though.

Posted by: Ian at April 9, 2004 10:28 PM

that wave looks great..

Posted by: bagel at April 9, 2004 11:36 PM

yet scary

Posted by: bagel at April 10, 2004 12:15 AM

HEY HOWZZZZZZIIIIITTTTTT!!!!


I HATE FOG I HATE FOG I HATE FOG. I HATE SURFING IN FOG. I HATE MY OLD BACKUP PINTAIL I HATE PADDLING THAT PARRALLEL PIECE OF SHIT I HATE FOG!

who fking posted the pic of my DAUGHTER In her scandelous WW!!!!!!$^&&*%^&**# I WILL
KILL YOU.
We want royalties.
Toxic Point is not a surf spot. IT IS A PHENOMENON!
Tom's not the only Fort Point whore who's a bit testy these days ...-
You have to understand that the more you blokes talk about a particular local, as in,
" ...one of Ryan Farrell's friends - [dot dot dot] seen him get violent," the more your going to piss EVERYONE off. Everyone.
In addidition to the new so called
"niceness" crowd and their want of the endlessly groovy vibe I post here that I don't think its going to happen. Too many c*U*N*s out there. So many Abercrombie Beach SURF DICKS trying to lay claim MY ass hurts.
Things are getting heated again at the Fort. You see,... there are a solid group of 60 regulars representing at least 10 factions including locals/ SF natives and longtime residents ( fuck the local vs. tranny - BS).
At any given moment you, as a new person, will have to deal with at least 3-4 to 5 honorary persons during any given session making sure things stay in line as in taking note of who's transgressing whom and what happend after.
The other night on the high tide east wind east swell no less than 15 soft toppers and little board riding GEEKS turned fTPt into a Ventura Rivermouth Parking lot. We know who you are and you certainly know who we are so why are you IN THE WAY.
The beach heirarchy is the same damned thing. This is a heavily localized beach. What part of ESTABLISHED do people not understand?
Don't be surprised to see people enforcing THE WAY.

HAVE A NICE DAY.

Posted by: BVB at April 10, 2004 11:39 AM

bob, that wasn't very nice

Posted by: blakestah at April 10, 2004 02:47 PM

dude, bob stole christmas...

Posted by: jake at April 10, 2004 03:33 PM

Trannys? Bob are you talking male to female or female to male?

Posted by: Neuticle at April 10, 2004 03:57 PM

you all can have shit point, just don't go anywhere else. it is the only place to surf around here

Posted by: 182 at April 10, 2004 06:11 PM

BVB just went fuc!

Let's burn one, BVB

keep pimpin'
egp

Posted by: EG Pimp at April 10, 2004 08:05 PM

Ha, threats! Enforcement! Great stuff.

If you are an "enforcer" you better make sure you don't "enforce" the wrong people. Tough call there Aggroville.


Posted by: Kaiser at April 10, 2004 08:49 PM

I saw people on some BZ soft tops out at Mavs a few days ago. I heard it's a pretty mellow beginners spot.

Posted by: Ian at April 10, 2004 09:51 PM

Ian- sorry for not responding- went to bed early.

It was Friday morning at the Lane. I surfed Indicator from 7-9 and shot from 9-11 or so. Were you there or north of town? Just like Dr. Blakestah predicted, Thursday was rockin' and rollin'. While it backed off a bit on Friday and today (Sat) we still had a friggin' blast. This is my pal Marty who once again stole my Bordello fish when I wasn't looking. You are sure right about the vegetation. I flew over the front of my board more than once after snagging some kelp.

Posted by: at April 10, 2004 10:56 PM

Hey Bruce, I surfed North of SC both Thursday and Friday.. Thursday was macking. Friday about half the size, but twice as clean. I saw someone shooting at Montara today, wasn't you was it?

Posted by: Ian at April 11, 2004 01:21 AM

Heard a gnarly story about yet another jumper being rescued or recovered at Ft. Point yesterday at around 11am. A friend was on the bridge when it happened. Any of the niceness crew in the water at the time?

Love that last pic, Bruce. Not an epic wave by any means but give me conditions like that with a little more steepness anyday...

Posted by: mwsf at April 11, 2004 02:51 PM

Jumper jumped.

Landed 8 feet from a surfer.

Survived, in a coma Sunday.

Heard it from a friend who heard it from the surfer who was 8 feet away.

Posted by: blakestah at April 11, 2004 04:52 PM

Was there. Saw him in the air and heard him land from 30 yards away. We were just moving outside towards the span from the corner on the flood. It was closer to 1 PM.

Doc Childs took over, hauled him on his longboard and barked directions while we waited for the Coast Guard. If he survives it will be because of the surfers being there as he was in no condition to swim.

A shame. It was a black kid about 20.

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