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what the dr. ordered.

what's up to all the interweb surf-jockeys!
Man. the swell is here. 12ft 17sec. on the SF buoy.. mostly from around 295 degrees. Kaiser and i woke up deep into the murky depths of the inner inner butt crack of dawn. kinda slimy and chewy up in there, if ya know what i mean. We started driving past all the dingleberries and nasty tape-worm remnants, up through the sticky, scatalogical caverns of the pre-dawn hours. Past putrid, dangling stalactites of dripping, hanging effluence. We rubbed our noses right in that shit. driving.. psyching... hadn't surfed since tuesday so it felt like forever. Finally arrived at the prospective spot.. it's just just getting light and already 6 or 7 cars in the pull-out. people frantically suiting up.. I walk down and check the waves.. every few minutes 2 or 3 come in..but.. nothing amazing.. plus.. there will be insta-crowd in about 10 minutes out there... soo.. we keep going.. To the next spot.. nobody around in the parking area. We pull up and scamper down for a check.. fuck.. nobody out. waves peeling in. not great, but.. glassy, semi-solid, empty. Dash into the suits and paddle out. First wave for me i see that it's going to suck-out and throw. I commit and then hold the pigdog as i kind-of free-fall down the face.. make it to the bottom and i'm fucking holding on as the wave grinds and tries to buck me off.. my back foot slips off but i'm still holding on to the pigdog with my one hand and my front foot.. just.. barely.. fucking.. hanging.. on.. but.. then i get annihilated.. ahh.. first wave under the belt. Kaiser takes off on a solid one. yeah.. More waves cruise in. Not huge like you'd think from the buoy readings. but every 20 minutes or so a few sizeable waves would come through and catch us inside. I don't really surf this spot so much so it was interesting to note little idiosyncrasies in how the waves morph and break. It also felt really rural and primitive out-there. mountains, hillsides, dark towering trees, big-sky, huge sea-lions, birds swooping, etc. Anyway.. the waves weren't fantabulous or anything.. but.. geez.. i probably caught about 15 or 20 rides and did my best to wreak havoc on any lip that presented itself to me. I also caught this one really steep wave that felt really good.. I saw it forming up to the outside and knew it was going to suck-up and be kinda gnarly. I got into the "I'm fucking committed to this wave and i'm gonna make it" mentality... which really helps and sometimes is the difference between getting in successfully or going over the falls.. anyway.. i saw the little take-off ramp present itself, then thrust myself over the ledge and down said ramp.. and then got jettisoned along this funnel-like section.. really fast.. felt good.. To keep it honest on this report i also went over the falls a few times!! yeah! But.. something about the session this morning just calmed me down, chilled me out and set me right for the day. Even though i had a great jam last night i was still kinda antsy and anxious due to lack of quality waves these last few days. Now i'm all chillin' here at work.. relaxed.

soo.. i'm sure other places in santa cruz county were sweetness this morning? On my way home i saw OB and it looked wild and large.. It wasn't really organized all that well into distinct, crazy-huge peaks or anything.. but it was crazy to see cloudbreak bombies peeling and happening way way way way the fuck out there.. like, way out there. in fact i'm not sure if i've ever seen waves break so far out.. craziness..

soo.. yeah.. anybody else score some?

Hans Blix and the Inspectors rocked the proverbial house last night.. 4 hour monster jam. Our first album will be entitled "Weapons of Mass Destruction"
sooo.. look out.. we might be playing in this battle of the bands metal/rock show this summer.. hmmmm...

peace

northcoast barrel (from surfpulse.com)

kauai

looks fun

bali

i've posted this before.. but.. it's inspiring

not sure where this is..

yeah babe.. i got so shacked on this super-gnar wave this morning

glad the flowery posts are back, post some hans blix mp3s!

Posted by: j at April 8, 2004 10:19 AM

atta boy!!!!

Posted by: todular at April 8, 2004 10:25 AM

yeah E, we all want to hear the "WMD" jam from last night. I gots a mobile pro tools set up (MBox), sometime in the future I could come place a mic and get a basic recording, too busy with the brother-in-law visiting and building a new website these next two weeks though. Which means no water time for me for a bit.

Been dreaming of a morning session at 4 Mile, haven't surfed there since High School. All the past DP's that E has taken down there have got me thinkin'....

Posted by: barney at April 8, 2004 10:27 AM

i thought i saw you out at a certain break this morning e, but from your cryptic description now i'm not so sure. anyway, the spot i checked looked pretty dissapointing this morning so i was over it. the cool thing about daylight saving is possible after work jetty/SC missions!

Posted by: bbr at April 8, 2004 10:28 AM

Hey E, I just came across this quote on commitment and thoght I'd share it with you. "The only true happiness comes from squandering ourselves for a purpose." - John Mason Brown
Peace

Posted by: todular at April 8, 2004 10:34 AM

Steama-
Lots o niceness vibe in the water today.. Got a few for ya..

have a niceness day :)

Posted by: sf at April 8, 2004 10:35 AM

oh yeah.....i hate the potty humor.

j, please also take note.

Posted by: tom at April 8, 2004 10:40 AM

OB: foggy and winter stormy looking. Not quite the Cape Horn style of earlier this morning, but it's still a big, moody mess. The way the light is being filtered is interesting, everything is greyed out. When those big cargo ships pass by they look like ghost ships. Woooooo...

inspired charging today, e!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 8, 2004 10:41 AM

Did the drive down to 12 Monkeys. Four guys out but it was looking marginal at best. Plus I didn't want to risk the wrath of the EG Pimp so I headed home.

I awoke too late to hit the northern spots at dawn as my crowd avoidance would require, so was hoping OB would be doable. With a friend, I might have given Sloat a go, but it was anything but predictable.

Time to start riding the bike for exercise.

Posted by: Friend #1 at April 8, 2004 10:43 AM

nice score, e & Kaiser!! schweet!

as for me, i'm back on the DL nursin' my frickin' back! sorta re-tweaked it Tues. however, i scored a killah massage yesterday from a masseuse Friend #1 recommended months back when i was illin' (thanx, Friend #1!...also, Jordan asked me to pass along a big gracias for the biz). soooo...i'm hoping that does wonders as i depart for a little slurf trip manana eve (note to niceness...yes...i'm going to be outta town for a week...so prepare for surprise, killah conditions 'round these parts! ; ).

peace all.

Posted by: ck at April 8, 2004 10:46 AM

toddy hawaii just called and said the SC reefs seemed to need a little more water on them to pull in the swell....good thing I slept in.

remnants on the morning session and for sure arvo session for me.

Posted by: tom at April 8, 2004 10:46 AM

agh, hate to bring up "the tooth" but.....

http://www.kgmb.com/local/show_news.php?show_n_id=2535&clean=1

Posted by: at April 8, 2004 10:48 AM

I am going to skip that tooth article but word has it there was another attack in Cape Town yesterday as well as the Maui one. Another reason to surf OB! As long as there are no dead whales spewing juice, we seem to be ok.

Ah, yes, there was an aroma in the air that was not quite right this morning! Good to get some waves for sure. Like E, I think I was expecting a bit more from the swell arrival. Maybe too steep? Maybe more water as Tom points out? Maybe just some time to work them lines out...

Good to get wet for sure. And definitely better then Lindy yesterday in the onshore muck. I do have to recall the other lone charger this a.m. that came to join the lineup with E and I. Guy was totally in the wrong spot and got KILLED by a MONSTER 3 wave set. First time I have ever seen someone just disappear. I was wondering what happen to this guy for like 10 minutes then I glanced back way into shore and this guy was just chillin on his log! Crazy. I thought the guy might have gone Michael Ho on us and got his leash wrapped around a rock, some kelp or the like that lives in the underwater caverns which we are ever so blind to (shit, that sounded like E for a sec).

I got a few good ones but did dork a few that I should have made. Didn't really line up like I had hoped but still nice to see some of that Aluetian Juice in April. Hope y'all get some either today or tomorrow.

Posted by: Kaiser at April 8, 2004 11:04 AM

Hey Tom
Where can I surf after work? Will the fort or deadie be on or should I go to my spot at Rockaway?

Posted by: pez at April 8, 2004 11:28 AM

Kaiser, Michael Ho?? What happened to him? Did you mean Mark Foo?

Posted by: todular at April 8, 2004 11:29 AM

tom, sorry you don't like my humor, but a wise man once said

"if you don't like someone just skip there posts. howard stern who is paid to attract millions of listeners tells people all the time....."don't listen"

oh wait, that was you who said that yesterday.

Posted by: j at April 8, 2004 11:41 AM

Kaiser, Did you know that a dork is a whale's penis?

Posted by: todular at April 8, 2004 11:47 AM

neco.. shralping

Posted by: e at April 8, 2004 11:53 AM

fanning throwing fans

parkinson smack

slates digs in

Posted by: e at April 8, 2004 12:02 PM

slappy garcia - he's back

Posted by: e at April 8, 2004 12:03 PM

Todular, yeah, Mark Foo, my bad. Michael Ho is still clippin' along. Bad reference either way. Don't like to fcuk w/ the Hawaiians as I am sure to get my ass kicked by Sunny G next trip over.

Salt water saturation does that some mornings. I have to let the post-nasal-surf-drip clear before I try to think. The "drip" is cool ain't it?

As for the whales penis, thanks for the k-nowledge. Next time, I will just say I "penis'd some take-offs" and you will know what I mean. Thanks for adding to my vocab.

Posted by: Kaiser at April 8, 2004 12:12 PM

uhh...how does slater slash harder on water than i can on a powder day on a 185? insanity.

Posted by: j at April 8, 2004 12:23 PM

weird wacky posts and vibes all around today...two more for the randomimnity:

- noserider for sale? 9'4''-10' is my amigo's request. "repairs needed" is just fine.

- the Aqua guys are throwing a party at the Independent on saturday night. sounds like a good ol' fashioned good time. any takers?

Posted by: friendly at April 8, 2004 12:41 PM

michael ho

Posted by: e at April 8, 2004 12:44 PM

Kaiser, I used to work with kids a few years ago and one day the kids were out of control I said "You guys are driving me NUTS!!"and this kid Pete points to his crotch and says,"HA HA HA YOU SAID NUTS!! HA HA.." So I say"Geez, Your such a DORK." He falls down laughing and says to me "Do you know what a dork is? I say "No." ITS A WHALE'S PENIS!!!!!! HA HA HA!! Funny little guy. It's amazing what kids can teach you. Peace

Posted by: todular at April 8, 2004 12:55 PM

That Bali Hi-Fi at the Independent should be cool this saturday. I live two blocks away from the Independent so I might try and sneak away from the in-laws to see the main act. The Independent used to be the Justice League which I thought was kinda yucky. They redesigned the entire place (except the floor which is still concrete I think) and moved the bar to the back of the room instead of the center and also installed one of the best sound systems in the city (bettered only by the Fillmore). They are getting some sweet acts now, Frankenrieter is playing there in May, his CD is actually pretty good too.

Posted by: barney at April 8, 2004 01:12 PM

Pez?

Like I'd tell?

Posted by: pez at April 8, 2004 01:21 PM

oh shit that was me.

and i still ain't tellin'.

J....don't be so sensitive.

Posted by: tom at April 8, 2004 01:22 PM

I also live 2 blocks from the Independent. Haven't been inside since they redid it. I actually kinda liked the old Justice League. Saw Fu Manchu absolutely destroy shit there a couple years ago.

Posted by: bbr at April 8, 2004 01:23 PM

hope they didn't paint over the barry mcgee paintings at the justice league/independent.. I used to like to zone out on the music and stare at those tweaky images.

my friend took this photo in mozambique

Posted by: e at April 8, 2004 01:27 PM

egypt

Posted by: e at April 8, 2004 01:46 PM

my friend's site
http://www.ca-smith.net/

Posted by: e at April 8, 2004 01:48 PM

Aloha,

The niceness gang always posts the greatest pics. I have a small collection of cool pics I uploaded to my blog if you want to check them out. http://www.darkstar.org

lightening.jpg
peak.jpg
shark_wave.jpg
ship.jpg
sun.jpg

Posted by: at April 8, 2004 01:51 PM

tom, i'm just fuckin witcha, i'm the most unsensitive guy you'll meet, it's all good.

everybody: please send me beer. it's been a long week.

Posted by: j at April 8, 2004 01:51 PM

By the way, I posted those pics! BTW, if I were to define paradise I would consider today at about 5:55 a.m. that moment in time. The almost full moon was dropping to the West while an orange/yellow bloom of light started to crest over Black point with just one bubbly cloud floating along the ridge crest. You could feel the protons of light escape over the horizon at sunrise, not a green flash, but more of a creeping light effect, like fingers of fine wine extending down the side of a glass. Makes you know that it is great to be alive and the connection we all have with our environment.

I hope you are all having an amazing day!

Posted by: Bagus at April 8, 2004 01:53 PM

e and (no-name), beaut photos, really dig the light in the egyptian alley. dusty

Posted by: ben at April 8, 2004 01:54 PM

Bagus....sic pics! i was going to say "my fav is..." but i can't pick one! sounds like a sweet morning in paradise indeed.

Posted by: ck at April 8, 2004 02:08 PM

Friendly-
i have a sweet 9'5'' noserider, but it is in need of A LOT of work- like, its in 2 pieces. I brought it to a friend who does ding repair, its fixable but it won't ride like it used to and i'm probably not going to spend the money to get it fixed 'cause I kinda want a new longboard anyway, something a little smaller, more hi-performance. If you're interested in some serious ding repair though....it is a really nice board, a stewart with a pretty airbrush and no other dings, thick and wide- great noserider.

anyone else selling a (shorter) longboard? how about a 6'8?

Posted by: luke at April 8, 2004 02:16 PM

A man was slooooowly peeling himself out of his wetsuit while his wife waited in the car. She noticed my board sitting on my roofrack and told her husband, " *That* board looks a lot lighter. This is what I was talking about earlier, honey. " While I'm suiting up we yak a bit about the board - size, price, where [ she recognized SF surfshop ], and then she picked it up for weight. " Ooh this is great " she says, " I know what somebody is getting for Xmas! "

She was at least 65 plus years old. Her wizened husband could not have been younger than 80. Coolest couple ever.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 8, 2004 02:24 PM

cool story sharkbait.

Posted by: bird at April 8, 2004 02:28 PM

bbr...I am the dude in the green shorty's jacket walking the brown lab around the North Panhandle area. Say hi if you see me sometime.

PS - all about the Independent on saturday, if anything just to see Dicky Betts son rip it up on guitar.

Posted by: barney at April 8, 2004 02:39 PM

J, nice work. But i still hate alliGATORS!

Let the "Quite Period" begin! Hope you are gettin some of that so you can take us all out to Namotu!

Posted by: Kaiser at April 8, 2004 02:52 PM

luke--
two pieces, eh? well...my friend's a carpenter so i doubt that'll phase him. email me at kknusdon at pcf dot org. he can make the call. gracias!

and i fully expect to be surfing at 65. yeah!

Posted by: friendly at April 8, 2004 03:06 PM

Clear Channel is dropping the Howard Stern show because the FCC is slapping them with a half million dollar fine for indecency.What the fuck is this country doing?? Have we lost our minds? Kiss your freedom goodbye because this country is going to shit.FUCK THE RELIGIOUS RIGHT AND FUCK GEORGE W BUSH!!!I'm so pissed right now I could fucking kick something....AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: todular at April 8, 2004 03:27 PM

Pretty scary isn't it todular??? Patriot Act and FCC decency standards...what's next...You got to believe the pendulum will swing back at some point...but at what cost?

Posted by: jdz at April 8, 2004 03:33 PM

i'll keep an eye out for ya barney, i'm the other way up divis near cafe abir.

my brother's surfing here tomorrow:

Posted by: bbr at April 8, 2004 03:37 PM

live 105 is infinity broadcasting so we'll still get it here... thank god. that's half the reason i get up for dawn patrols.

Posted by: bbr at April 8, 2004 03:42 PM

is this real?

http://www.azhiaziam.com/sys-tmpl/contenderphotos/view_alone.nhtml?profile=contenderphotos&UID=10016

Posted by: jdz at April 8, 2004 03:43 PM

uh...how do you hotlink an image from another site????

Posted by: jdz at April 8, 2004 03:44 PM

nice job on the wave scoring this morning fellas..

i rode the gondola at squa(?) valley with michael Ho once a long time ago. he reaked of weed and made a great impression on my 19 year old head. nice guy.

ya, I hope they didnt get rid of those twist paintings at the independent/justice leuge/kennel club? anyone remeber what it was before the justice league? kennel club right? anyway i just bought tickets for De La Soul there show in may. should be good. even though last time they kind lagged getting on stage.

favorite photos:
mt. fuji
egypt alleyway

Posted by: bagel at April 8, 2004 03:47 PM

NO WAY! is that why its been all reruns of stern lately???

fucking george bush

Posted by: bagel at April 8, 2004 03:49 PM

oh ok, i kinda freaked when i saw that first post..but still..

Posted by: bgl at April 8, 2004 03:51 PM

kaiser - hahahaha, your post is like something off of the da vinci code. i hear you on workin for the devil but i'm a big boy and i gotta eat! re: namotu for everyone, only wish i was at that level

damn, this dog rips http://www.skateboardingbulldog.com/

Posted by: j at April 8, 2004 04:05 PM

to hotlink a site, use the html img tag ie:

"Less than sign" img src="URL HERE" "Greater than sign"

You can use your intuitive brilliance to get the syntax correct, or check the page source.

Here is a pic I shot on a Baja surf trip. This is a pre-dawn sky over the Sea of Cortez, with a fishing pelican flying by. Imagine camping out, waking up, poking your head out the tent, and seeing this.

Posted by: blakestah at April 8, 2004 04:25 PM

J, just came across the wire to me so I had to jump on it :) If you weren't working for the devil, you wouldn't be as stoked to surf all the time! At least that is how I justify it...

The devil isn't so bad, as long as you don't click "ok"!!!!!

Glad to see you guys are makin a move. Its good for me too. And Christian over there taking the bottomline up 15% today didn't hurt me either.

Posted by: Kaiser at April 8, 2004 04:42 PM

this guy needs help figuring out which leg the leash goes on?

Posted by: at April 8, 2004 04:43 PM

thank you blakestah...and cool pic

- img src=http://www.azhiaziam.com/sys-tmpl/contenderphotos/view_alone.nhtml?profile=contenderphotos&UID=10016+

Posted by: jdz at April 8, 2004 04:47 PM

""

Posted by: at April 8, 2004 04:50 PM

doh...uh been a long day and yes I am a moron

Posted by: jdz at April 8, 2004 04:51 PM

Posted by: at April 8, 2004 04:52 PM

oy, screw it....but a friend of the devil....jeezus what is christian doing over there...nice big move today.

Posted by: jdz at April 8, 2004 04:55 PM

all this talking of camping reminded me of this pic i took up at yosemite last summer, first attempt at taking a star trail shot and it worked out decent (bad scan though)

Posted by: j at April 8, 2004 05:23 PM

fark!

Posted by: e at April 8, 2004 05:30 PM

Occy just busted a ridiculous floater...

The internet is genius.

Posted by: Kaiser at April 8, 2004 05:35 PM

Meetings downtown all day today, just catching up...

Howard Stern got dropped from Clear Channel but not from any of the other stations that carry him. They've been playing reruns this week, but he's just on vacation and should be back live next week. They're kinda freaking out though because there's legislation that looks like it will be passed which increases indecency fines from $27,500 per incident to $500,000 per incident. If that happens, Stern's afraid he would he to go off the air because if he or the stations got fined, they would be financially ruined. To make matters worse, the FCC hasn't even defined what's allowable on the air and what isn't--it's entirely subjective. Whether you're a fan of Howard Stern or not, it's a crock of shit....

And good to hear of a couple others in the niceness crew living in the panhandle area...

Cheers!

Posted by: mwsf at April 8, 2004 05:53 PM

gnarly that the head of the FCC is colen powells son. caraaazy

Posted by: bagel at April 8, 2004 06:08 PM

random and late, but on howardstern.com there's a link to an Oprah transcript that illustrates a rediculous hyprocrisy in the fcc fining

suuuuuuuuuuuurf. see you all at 5:40 in the proverbial dawn lineup.

Posted by: jake at April 8, 2004 06:34 PM

hmmm, not sure if this Curren interview at Bells is fascinating or painful???

Posted by: ben at April 8, 2004 07:00 PM

Late post.. but surfed 4 mile today just before,during, and after the wind picked up. Went from relatively glassy to 25 knot winds. Coast guard boats cruising around past the point and over towards 3 mile. Saw a bunch ducks duck diving huge sets. And saw one about 5 feet from me swallow a fish about the 8" long.. pretty cool! Anyway, very fun waves. Mavs was going from what I heard. Ross's was out of control, not like I'd surf there on a day like today anyway. Did anyone see Pigeon Point around 3:45? It was FIRING! Have fun dodging the whites though. I dunno seeing a wave like that today though makes you want to jeopordize your safety/life..

Posted by: Ian at April 8, 2004 07:23 PM

wheres the curren interview?

Posted by: bgl at April 8, 2004 07:34 PM

Don't even get me started on the coup d'etat the current theocracy is throwing down right now.

jdz, is this real or really nuts? That's so beyond square.

Posted by: dano at April 8, 2004 07:53 PM

Got to the WS around 11 and the tide was too hi making for bouncy washback type conditions and then the wind made it worse. My bro said he couldn't handle the Lane crowd though. I saw Pigeon and it sure was trying, my friend saw it one magic day and said it was the most beautiful thing ever. Like a slow motion JBay or reversed and pudged up Pacasmayo.

Posted by: at April 8, 2004 07:55 PM

Drove to SC in the early afternoon and had 30 minutes to shoot pics at the lane before my job interview. It was firing! Winter in April, how cool!!! Check em' out niceness pals. Hope everyone gets their share this weekend.

http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%209.htm

Posted by: Bruce at April 8, 2004 08:37 PM

GRRRRRRRRRRRRnaaaaSTY baja vs. SoCal!!!

E,

me and kus just finished up a trip to Baja, sweetly, on a mid-morning to afternoon sesh at sunset cliffs, pretty much the only place breakin' in south county (SD that is). anyway i'll ge to that later . . .

we managed our way down to km38, south of rosarito yesterday (house of the un-holy, fo' sho'). this wave presents some nasty rights with rocks in the line up (watch out). kus's first ride was sickness . . . about 90 miles/hr down the line for 300 yards--SWEET. No one was out down there so you can afford to be very selective. We moved down toward km38.5 for safety (avoiding rocks) and hit it for another hour. Overall this is a great spot but needs quality swell for consistency which we didn't have.

So, we hit sunset cliffs today around mid morning until 3:30pm. It is a dicy walk down to the beach, essentially a rope rappel down to the beach. We started out on the inside and got up-ended (bad idea). Paddled out another couple hundred yards and enjoyed 8 foot sweeping lefts and rights pretty much for the next three hours. Other than the periodic 20 minute wait for sets, you can feel very gratified all day long at this spot. heads up though, beware of the kelp there, kus got caught up in some fishing line and hooks on the paddle in.

kus will be in the SD area for a few mo days so we'll check in with a weekend update next week . . . later!

Posted by: dr.j-would at April 8, 2004 09:50 PM

good work bruce, stylish shots, grazie mille! Not the first time your pics have stoked me! Thanks again, ben

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