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dismal, blowy, doable

After some enjoyable waves yesterday I decided to suit up and trot down to the beach this morning without checking the conditions beforehand. The wind seemed light but onshore on my way down. The atmosphere in the outer sunset was decidedly gray and chilly. Over the dunes and i was psyching.. Visions of empty, glassy, shoulder-high niceness wafted through my mind's eye. But.. the reality proved far from that. As i crested the dunes i was instead met by a vision of small, dumpy, hacked weak windswell.. But.. at least it was empty! Ha! But.. as i was already in my wetsuit and down at the beach, i might as well have a little surf. Occasionally when conditions look horrendous from the beach, you'll get out there and end up having a blast. But.. i'm sorry to say that today wasn't really one of those days. I caught maybe 5 or 6 little crumbly wavelets along with one character-rich left that actually carried me pretty far toward shore. But.. alot of sitting out there in the topsy-turvy, punch-drunk, frigid ocean for just a few down-the-line excursions.. Was it worth it? definitely. Was it re-sweetulous ri-dankulosity? not exactly.

those little circular jellyfish with the sails have begun their annual pilgrammage (death-march) to our Nor-Cal shores. For a good time during an otherwise lackluster session, try placing one of these little jelly-fish on each of your fingers.. then go up to your friend and shake his hand. Or.. have a contest with your buddy and see how many you can fit in your mouth. If you're hungry just chow-em down.. mmmm... gummy!

bells

carving

off-the-top

jungle cutty

big fat cutback

curren - full-on

curren - yup

curren - feelin' it

curren - gauge

curren - rocking

slates - defining

stinkeye night pic (santa cruz)

Posted by: e at April 12, 2004 10:14 AM

dan malloy cutty

Posted by: e at April 12, 2004 10:16 AM

e sighting:

trotting purposefully across the great highway around k_____ at about 9:45 am sunday, brown turd tucked under the arm, lion-like mane flowing in the light side/on shore breeze

how were the waves e? I surfed north of there, found my way into a few little nuggets among dumpy inner bar closeouts, seemed like it was getting better around noon when I had to go...

Posted by: d 'n s at April 12, 2004 10:22 AM

Lindamar was fun on Saturday. Proved as e said before to be a "wave riding castle."

Posted by: Ian at April 12, 2004 10:32 AM

in case you haven't seen the skateboarding bulldog.. hilarious and awesome!

d 'n s - yup.. i surfed for about 2 hours on sunday with Christian. Caught some fun ones. I didn't surf that great but had a good time. some good waves on offer.. it seemed bigger toward the middle and got smaller as we drifted north.

coool...

Posted by: e at April 12, 2004 10:36 AM

Dear surf report website,

I hope you will indulge me in sharing my thoughts. Until about 6 weeks ago I was a guest of the state (California Department of Corrections) for almost a decade. While there, one of the few things I actually looked forward to was watching videos. Sometimes we got to see surfing videos, which I found particularly enjoyable. I prayed for the day I could have a surfboard of my own, and learn how to ride the breakers. Well here I am living in San Francisco, it is so hard for me to believe that day has actually come, and that I too can now be a surfer! Exploring the web has also been a new fascination, not long ago by chance I discovered this website. To me, one of the more curious aspects of this sport has to do with hostilities shown to newcomers at certain places. While Ocean Beach looks far too challenging a place for this "goofyfoot" to learn, "Fort Point" and "Dead Man's" look very appealing to me. I understand there are some "tough guys" there who act less than welcoming to people they do not already know. I cannot tell you how much I am looking forward to making their acquaintance. Also there are several "tough talkers" who tend to post comments on this website that are not very "nice." They use names like "BVB" and "Tom." It is highly likely the prevailing good vibrations of this forum and the relative safety behind their plastic keyboards makes them feel "tough." I have spent a large part of my life being around people who are not very nice. For those of you who have lived comparatively comfortable lives, I wish to share a very hard-earned kernel of truth: Do not threaten or show hostility to someone you do not know. The day will come and it may be today, when as a result you are suddenly facing an unimaginably grave reshuffling of your priorities. Thank you for reading my words and happy surfing to you all.

Quiet Guy

Posted by: Quiet Guy at April 12, 2004 10:55 AM

One foggy nugget from Steamer's on Saturday. We had three fun sessions (Fri/Sat/Sun). Pretty overcast but it stayed glassy. I may need help though, I'm afraid I'm turning into an LLL (Lane Lot Lizzard).

Posted by: Bruce at April 12, 2004 11:01 AM

Hey, uh, any niceness lugs interested in hefting unweildy objects down and up some stairs? I feel totally tactless for asking here but I'm trying to move this week and pos. next, looking for a simple way to do this. Will provide traditional free pizza n' beer. Plus bonus insiders' look at the surf/wind report's new POV. I won't be able to get away with farking up OB observations after peeps see this place. Schedule flexible starting Weds. Yes, you know you want to do this! Thanks and Cheers!

[PS out of town all day, if back before 5 can shout out then if it's remotely surfable.]

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 12, 2004 11:03 AM

E, what's your bands name again? Are you guys really gunna put out a record?

Posted by: Ian at April 12, 2004 11:06 AM

Quiet Guy,
next time i see someone floundering in the lineup, I'll keep your words in mind. not that I would actually say anything to neophytes, but in hopes that some other surfer may want to flex his muscles - only to learn part of what life may hold in prison.

good luck on your journey to surf pleasure. may you enjoy it as much as the rest of us.

Posted by: rza at April 12, 2004 11:09 AM

Quiet Guy.

Today is a good day to give Ocean Beach a try. Send me an email. I'll come pick you up if you need a lift.

If not, go ahead and reread the last year or so of my posts here. But please continue to join in on the discussion, the longer you are hear the more we'll get to know you and your credibility will soar.

Posted by: tom at April 12, 2004 11:18 AM

GREETINGS FROM THE CRYPT- the nudsit resort was packed with hippies and yuppies. Imagine getting vibed by yuppies at a nudist resort...
?????????

Oh BTW, here's a fifty thousand pound bomb:

Oh yeah happy easter christian holiday to all AND EVERYONE who rips. Heard the marines were handing out easter baskets to the children in Iraq sunday sunday sunday.
BE THERE!!!!!!!!

MOLLUCK.

Right - I AM an &$%&*hole.
Not an "enforcer," just a writer. Plus I never "enforce" anything smaller than myself.
I predicted the jumper - the day before in fact. New it was going to be the day so I didn't go to $^^%pt.
PSYCHIC.
In a tale last week I told of how we loaded a heavy broken carcass onto a kayak - not one person responded because they were too busy trying to write Linda Mar and Pacifilus into a "surfing mecca." All surf all blab. Boo hoo to me for having no one to write to...
Tom- great :

NOW everyone knows about:
1. Jumpers Peak
2. How to save yourself
3. When to surf there and where.
4. Nice

11:17am

Right now the waves are good at the beach - really good - leave work - pile on.

3-4 ft.

I'd surf VF'S for full viewing.


Also and I'll say it right here. If I'm such a pr*k
why is it certain baffon like individuals get away with rulingDeDZs as if they were its sole master. Who turned these clods into gods?


I never surfed there out of respect for the its sanctity. Never. If you saw 4 people on it - then you'd honor it and drive away. Then in '90 I started heading down on the odd days and slowly over the years found myself surrounded by everyone else thinking they'd get the soul sole wave too.
Now look what you've done!!!!
So all the people who surf the beach and her peaks are out at Dead's with major attitude - even longtime so called " friends" behave like di*ks. All bets are off over there and WHO THE FU*K CARES ABOUT THE BIG GUY THAT CAN KICK EVERYONES ASS? ALL OF YOU WHO SURF IT ARE SURFING WHORES. YEAH GREAT WAVE! TELL THE WORLD.
But don't cross "the tranny fanny."
I surf S@*$t Point becasue it is surfable - the only way I would allow an altercation is if IN THE WATER someone did something really wrong.
What is wrong? There is no worong and there is nothing to enforce.
HOME IS WHERE!?

Posted by: BVB at April 12, 2004 11:19 AM

bruce - that pic is tight! one of my faves from your lens! nice.

quiet guy - thanks for posting. congrats on your new-found freedom. fuck yeah!

If you show respect out in the water you will usually get respect back. The spots you referenced aren't the best for beginners.. but if you have your heart set on em' i'd recommend just watching for a time or two.. see how people position themselves in the water.. see how they jockey.. see who's catching what and how people flow within the lineup.. The wave's are actually pretty easy to catch/ride on most days.. but can be very penalizing if you find yourself in the wrong spot, or if you don't know where to set-up or how deep is too deep. Mexisurf knocked his two front teeth out on the big rock in the middle of the main takeoff spot at the fort. Also a friend slashed his face open on the same rock and had to get 26 stitches.. across his nose and cheek.

but.. all that blabbering aside.. you're advice about not fucking with people you don't know is good advice. You are right on the money in believing there are many surfers out there who need to hear this advice.. There are many many surfers who without hesitation will yell-at/vibe/intimidate people they don't know.

quiet guy - i hope you never come across these negative vibings but if you do take a breath before you react because getting yourself in trouble again at the expense of one of these people just isn't worth it..

good luck homie! hope you score waves soon.

ps.. i love the line, "suddenly facing an unimaginably grave reshuffling of your priorities"..

gnarly..

Posted by: e at April 12, 2004 11:20 AM

I think the post from a while back about the corn-fed water polo fellow in SC was a great example of what quiet guy is talking about. Good luck with the ocean dreams, quiet, and, really, there's plenty of water room out there sans bad vibes.

Posted by: ben at April 12, 2004 11:26 AM

I foolishly passed up some nice looking little waves on Sunday due to a weird eye infection that developed the day before - shoulda just hit it anyway. Good for you for gettin' on it today e, despite the marginal conditions.

Quiet Guy - I like your attitude! I'm pretty sure BVB and Tom are just joshin' much of the time with their bristly words here. But you're right about some surfer's at some breaks acting overly territorial and hypercritical towards newcomers to "their" waters. I'll wager many of them have no idea what it takes to survive amongst truly dangerous individuals. In my experience it is best to give respect to everybody, regardless of their outward appearance. It’s sometimes very difficult to tell who the “real” tough guys are.
But when it comes to this surfing deal, the really tough cookie is THE OCEAN. While she is the source of our joy, she can also be cold and merciless. She can swallow you whole and not even notice it. Hell, she could swallow a continent and hardly belch! So allow me to offer a word of caution: even if the locals welcomed newcomers with opened arms, Fort Point and Deadmans are not good places to learn to surf – tricky currents/rocks/tight take-off zones. Be careful/have fun.

Posted by: Jimmie at April 12, 2004 11:34 AM

that first pic, the night shot, is sick sick sick!! i'm not sure if i'd want to be bobbing around at feeding time though, up north i always figured if i'm hungry around 8ish than i'm sure other larger critters in the water are hungry....

quiet guy - congrats on getting out, and i had to laugh at your post!! i always wonder if the the 'enforcers' ever think about that...especially after someone challenged my buddy in the water (who did nothing wrong, just wasn't a recognized face)...little did the guy know that my buddy used to be a semi-pro kick boxer....

anyways, rock on everybody, hope the weekend was good to you. the domino's pizza bunny brought me easter dinner last night!

Posted by: j at April 12, 2004 11:41 AM

"The psychology contained in written words is often confusing to some and yet clear to others. At the same time, one person's written words and thoughts can have many different meanings to those that read within and outside these very lines..."

Written by someone smart - Seems very appropriate!

So, someone jumped from the bridge eh? Got taken care of by the brotherhood I hear. What a sight that must have been. Damn!

Posted by: Kaiser at April 12, 2004 11:45 AM

Niceness folks-

I am leaving SF thius summer and need all your help. I am heading to costa rica as part of a 60 day driving expedition. It shoulkd be pretty sick despite being broke Im gonna do it. Hey if Naughton can survive in Africa I should be able to survive in my father's homeland of mexico.

Well since I am a genuine surf bumb I am lacking some shit that will make my time easier. If anyone has any used surf gear that they would like to donate, I and my Mexican bretheren would appreciate it. All items donated to me will be left with local surfers along my trip. So if you have any old booties,leashes, rash gaurds, board shorts that are too tight or that your too embarased to wear please donate them to me. Stickers, little white elephant chotskies are good too. I'll take anything that could be used.

last year I left a wetsuit 2 boards and even a travel bag in Mexico.

I am willing to pick up any donation and nuttin is too small.

I dont think that I'll need my Merrick 7'4 semi gun on this trip so if someone needs a good OB Board and is willing to make me a decent offer I'd let it go. Then again I may get lucky and need it

well contact me directly if you wish or just see me at the beach

Posted by: pez at April 12, 2004 12:03 PM

After checking all the way down from Sloat, I found myself standing on the bluff above Yellow Sand Beach where the onshores were somewhat milder watching the weak lines fight the tide to break sluggishly close to shore and considering a brief go out when right in what would have been the middle of the lineup (were anybody out), I saw the biggest fricking fin I have ever seen. It rose maybe 3 feet out of the water, wavered, and slowly submerged. Luckily it was followed shortly thereafter by an equally enormous grey back which blew a short geyser of whale breath into the air. At least one adult and one baby whale only about 30 yards from shore making their way slowly north. I remember reading on here last year that some whales will come close to shore and use a pectoral fin to stir up the bottom to find food and how the other pectoral fin will often break the surface freaking people like me out. Anyway, I stood and watched from the bluff until I got cold and decided to find my own breakfast elsewhere...

Posted by: Hrothbart at April 12, 2004 12:04 PM

thats an awesome photo bruce..the birds eye view and lack of white water make it look like there is no wave and the guy is just cruising..

interesting words quiet guy...it is crazy though, how sarcasm and subtle comedy is not easily read through written words.. i think i fell victim to that the other day..kaiser said it better, and the smart guy.

Got fun waves at Waddel saturday, sorry to name names, no secret to literate people. Smaller and still fun Sunday, saw a salmon (mutsa been) flapping his way down the creek trying to get back into the ocean yesterday, it was a cool thing to see. As he gets just about there, some guy at the opening of the creek grabs him and throws him up on the sand. He seemed to be showing off that he could grab a big fish. My girlfriend and I walked briskly up to him and asked what he was doing as obviously the little guy was just trying to get back into the ocean, he said he was trying to call the number that the fish had tagged on his body, like he was some sort of humanitarian scientist or something. Now, I don’t know nothing about no fish but it just seemed to me that the little guy was trying to get back into the ocean. I think we guilt tripped him enough and he threw the fish back into the creek mouth. The thing could barely move at that point, he had to pick him up again and throw him closer to the ocean. We were kind of bummed and started walking back to the car. Than we see a surfer who was entering the water, who witnessed the event with a scowl, walk out into waist deep water, grab the fish, and start moving it around and around in an attempt to get the guy breathing again, he seemed successful as he went to the shore after a few seconds, grabbed his board and paddled out. The fish was bloody and it was Waddel creek. I was stoked to be a surfer at that point and was happy about the respect we have for the ocean and the things in it. I hung around a bit and watched the surfer kill this little left. Cheers to that guy.

So wait is Curren competing again???

Posted by: bagel at April 12, 2004 12:07 PM

Tom-

I know your good for at least some booties. :)

Posted by: pez at April 12, 2004 12:08 PM

So if I jump, I trust some surfers will help me? e, you passed my post, what's the name of your band? Some time

Posted by: Ian at April 12, 2004 12:17 PM

Pez, I got a pair for ya. Old and torn but they are yours should you want them.

Whales! Damn, I think the beach of witness has breed many other types of fin sitings in the past. Cool story there. Seems like those little blue tri-jellies spur about at similar times as the whale visits. Last year, I was surfing VFers right next to Judith (bodysurfer) and a whale came up about 30 yards from us. Crazy to have these mammoth creatures chillin that close. Just glad I don't look like plankton or drink the Dew!

Posted by: Kaiser at April 12, 2004 12:19 PM

Thanks to all of you for the encouraging words and very helpful advice. I am surprised so many of you actually found my thoughts even worth responding to. And Tom, I truly appreciate your kind offer. I believe that besides just being able to walk outside and look up at the sky whenever I want, discovering this website is quite possibly one of the best things that has happened to me in a very long time.

Posted by: Quiet Guy at April 12, 2004 12:21 PM

Friendly- i tried to email you about the broken londboard at kknusdon@pcf.org but it bounced back. do i have it wrong?

Posted by: luke at April 12, 2004 12:27 PM

Oh yeah. I was going to suggest that ethan do an interview with Judith but I was distracted Judith has been injured 2x that I know of and dropped in on hundreds of times as well has had thousands of boards ditched tooo close to her.

As the onely bodysurfer in the lineups on occasion she has told me that (and I can not believe she is so understanding) that it is a constant education process. But unfortunately she can't teach everyone. Maybe a q and a with judith on your site could help her out at ocean beach on a) who she is and b) what is priority/etiquette when board surfing around a bodysurfer. I am also sure bbr could contribute.

Pez...booties were in the car but there are other sets of various sizes in the basement that I will dig up. When do you leave? If you make it to CR the 7'4" will be needed.

Posted by: tom at April 12, 2004 12:41 PM

if judith does not read here i am sure anastasia has her email...

Posted by: tom at April 12, 2004 12:42 PM

bagel, I don't understand what you mean "he said he was trying to call the number that the fish had tagged on his body," ?? I don't know about Curren competing, but he's back on Ripcurl. From what I read.. Ripcurl also just bought the rights to the pipe masters. Making them the sponsor of the two biggest surfing competitions on the tour.

Posted by: Ian at April 12, 2004 12:44 PM

tom.. I asked Judith for an interview and she respectfully denied. She says that she doesn't want the publicity.

if you talk to her maybe ask her again and couch the reason's in terms of educating people about etiquette?

"Save your life!"

"Read the fucking book!"

"written by the great and knowledgeable Icculus!"

Posted by: e at April 12, 2004 12:45 PM

e, your ability to transform marginal conditons into a blissful expereince inspired me to surf yesterday at a funky sandbar on the tidal swing. with your surf transformation prose dancing in my head. i paddled out into an otherwise "pass on it" situation suddenly finding racy left walls with some room to move down the line. farking out of nowhere a solid hour of waves to the beach, just me a seal and a few porpoise's. Thanks for the inspiration. rock on brother.

Anybody know where I can file for a guest pass for the Fort? I have my birth certificate.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 12, 2004 12:50 PM

oh yeah. QG nice post. i have an old wetsuit if you need one. it would fit a 6' 190 or less guy.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 12, 2004 01:01 PM

luke--
sorry about that...you had it right. try chiefkek at yahoo or post your email up here and i'll respond. thanks!

quiet guy--
welcome back...i hope you find buckets of joy and happiness on your first ventures into the water. i'll also echo a word of caution about jumping in at "locals only" spots. the conditions generated by most of those places are, imho, more dangerous than the locals who stake the claims. for the most part.

lessons learned: ocean powerful. rocks hard. people soft. surfing fun. space plenty. exploring excellent. drops difficult. OB shifty. niceness sweet. it's all so simple, really...

Posted by: friendly at April 12, 2004 01:15 PM

sorry Ian, ya i read my post and realized i need to either, a) read more books, or b) take a writing class..the fish had this plastic tag stuck to his body, like someone tagged the fish for sceintific reasons or som'n. maybe i have a bad case of the mondays.

Posted by: bagel at April 12, 2004 01:21 PM

bagel, fish was probly "spawned out" gonna meet its maker anyway

Posted by: at April 12, 2004 01:38 PM

sapwned out maybe...but to make it almost back to the ocean after a hard fought journey and have some arse pull you out of ankle deep water within spitting distance of your goal...that's not niceness.

Posted by: jdz at April 12, 2004 01:43 PM

ya like i said, dont know much about fishery but just seemed like kind of a bummer. it would seem better if a shark ate him or a seal or something, or even if dude was planning on eating him..im just a sensitive man i guess, hay laadies!

Posted by: bagel at April 12, 2004 01:50 PM

I leave next monday from malibu. 13 dudes. some pros and vid peeps from 411. Should be interesting as its going to be these great surfers and then me. They are there to make $$$ and get some footie. Im going to surf and make more contacts. Like I said I'll take any necesities anyone has to offer. i'll pick up just emmail me whta you are willing to provide and Im there.


pez

Posted by: pez at April 12, 2004 01:53 PM

haha. now I got ya bagel. jdz, true! I saw w.creek on Sat and saw some nugs coming through. I think the drive a lil more South paid off though. Friday though, at the creek.. A HUGE right was freight training through the North end.. anyone see it? geez... I don't think anyone could make it though.

Posted by: Ian at April 12, 2004 01:55 PM

have some booties and a board for you pez.

Posted by: bird at April 12, 2004 02:03 PM

pez.. I've got a thick 6'4" it's all yellow and has dings. Are you that willing? Just curious..

Posted by: Ian at April 12, 2004 02:07 PM

Hey where is the April 10 comment?
Went out at Sloat in the dense fog and didn't know what to expect. The waves were spectacular, and it was like surfing on another planet! I hope I am not being a kook and spoiling some OB secret, but dense fog rocks! Stayed out for 3.5 hours. Couldn't see the shore the entire time- when I paddled in, I found I had drifted to Noriega! "Excuse me, which way is Sloat?"

Posted by: PresidYo at April 12, 2004 02:12 PM

Pez, I also got booties but it seems Mexico only needs so many nasty old booties.

Surfed some sloppy little J street, good to be back in the water. i was in China for the past 10 days. China is fuct, so polluted my nostrils were burning, thick fog like smog over the cities. gnarly. The country is said to be heavily censored yet they more about the world and whats really going on than most Americans....wierd. Anyone notice how much more news you get abroad and how much fluff crap the news gives here???

Posted by: mexisurf at April 12, 2004 02:14 PM

Ian-
If I were going with my usual van. I'd take as many decks and stuff as I can. I will probably take an extra board or two, but tend to give all my stuff with the exception of two decks. Leashes, wax, fiber glass, rash gaurds and stuff I can stuff into a pack is best.

pez

Posted by: pez at April 12, 2004 02:16 PM

RE: Fish, the swimming kind.

Salmon return once and die upstream, post spawn. Steelhead (essentially an ocean going rainbow trout) go back to the ocean, then return to the stream to spawn several more times. Finding steelhead south of the Golden Gate is a rare thing these days but this is the time of year when they return to the sea.

Posted by: R3W at April 12, 2004 02:19 PM

does anyone remember days like this:

seems like its been a while....5 more months to go.

maybe to start people reflecting about this season, what was your most memorable day....

for me...12/18 the day after big wed. just under DOH and clean offshore peaks breaking top to bottom.....those were the days!

Posted by: dsx at April 12, 2004 02:31 PM

ian.. band name: hans blix and the inspectors.

dood.. i never received those pics you were trying to send me? whattup dogg?

cranial_bulge@yahoo.com

best day of the season?? hmmm... good question..

no wetsuit surfing in 6 days!! thass what i'm talkin' about!

Posted by: e at April 12, 2004 03:02 PM

dsx - by the way - sick photo!

Posted by: e at April 12, 2004 03:03 PM

very sick photo..i remember thanxgiving being one of my seasonal highlights..

hows about my question re. Curren?

is he on the tour? trying to qualify?


Posted by: bagel at April 12, 2004 03:08 PM

ahh.. i guess that OB photo that dsx posted is actually Bruce's photo.. Bruce! sick photo cuz!

bagel - i don't think that Curren is trying to requalify. He's doing a few select competitions and otherwise continuing his normal cruizy lifestyle.. or.. at least that's what i've come to understand via reading every word in every surf magazine and website that i can get my eyes on.

rock!

yo.. i gotz the skunk.. band practice is gonna blaze tonight.. shiiiot..

Posted by: e at April 12, 2004 03:13 PM

looking for a shaper recommendation in sf / sc

what I have in mind is 6'6" - 6'8" thruster set up for summertime nor cal beach break (i.e. small mushy blown out waves) maybe kind of wider in the middle & with a fairly wide squash tail.

I had my last board (a 7'0") shaped by pearson, got it pretty quick and I've been pretty happy with it but I'm curious if anybody's had a good experience with a similar board from another local or semi local shaper.

thanks -eric

Posted by: eric at April 12, 2004 03:14 PM

yeah, thats bruces pic. i was checking out pics of the lane from friday and pissed i didnt even check it but went straight to swift street. middle peak had some size, swift street need some more swell.

Posted by: dsx at April 12, 2004 03:22 PM

thx e im ready to break my week long high-atus with you before ya split maing.

Posted by: bagel at April 12, 2004 03:41 PM

man, its been a couple of days, its funny how you start to wonder whats going down in niceness-ville when you are away from a computer.

spent a nice weekend down in the carmel pbeach area. man, the coast is so pretty down there. blue waters and lots of life in the water. and lots of bigger things to eat the smaller things.

good to read the positive posts! here's a pic of the haps in my little shack. niceness to all.

Posted by: elias at April 12, 2004 03:58 PM

thanksgiving day was the most memorable session of last season for me. blissful offshores grooming overhead inner bar sickness. i got my longest pit of the season (ever?) with a couple of friends watching. can't beat that.

saturday i scored super fun rampy VFers despite the pea soup fog. drove home and busted out my mom's 9'6" Wahlboard for some shatty but fun pismo on sunday.

Posted by: bbr at April 12, 2004 04:15 PM

shapers....i would go talk with john from sf surf shop.
there are several guys that are connected with them that
shape for here.....interesting inquiry re: boards too.

i recently made the switch from exclusive longboards
to the shorty's again. i have been riding a 6'8" swallow
tail (small swallow) that is a bit wider and a tad more
floaty than a normal chip. it has some fish genes it
seems. anyhow.....it kicks ass. i scored the board from
a south african chap i know. he (and now i) swear by
this sort of shape. it all depends on the ride YOU want.

pearson makes a great board (i've had 3 of them) BUT
they snap, easily....which reminds me....


in my reticence to post i had stored away a nugget from the last nice large clean day at ob...saw a guy with what WAS a board that had been transformed into 3 ! smaller boards. the poor
guy looked thrashed too.

if i would have had a beer with i would have given
it to him.


Posted by: korewin at April 12, 2004 04:19 PM

Elias, That thing looks pointy! Ouch! Hey Elias that brown and funky swallow tail board you shaped looks excellent, can't believe it was your first. That fish in the back looks nice too. Your a natural, my first board was a disaster. Should be getting back my egg any day now from the glasser in Pacifica, I hope it comes out better than my last.

Posted by: mexisurf at April 12, 2004 04:22 PM

uhh...sorry that was directed to eric re: shapers
and boards.

nice hut elias.

Posted by: korewin at April 12, 2004 04:24 PM

All the SF shapers come through SF Surfshop, John Schultze, Kyle Bernhardt, Bill Hickey, and Bob Miller (actually of ASD). John will do anything, he does about 5 boards a week, all sizes. Bob Miller is very experienced, does mostly longboards. Bill Hickey will do anything, as long as it has custom artwork and S-glass and his own handmade fins. Bill is a special person, his boards are a CUT above the rest. Very nearly EVERY longtime local has or had a Hickey board - he started shaping here in 1956. Kyle Bernhardt is a longboarder and performance longboard specialist (but also does guns and shortboards), he shapes in Haliewa but ships back to SF Surfshop.

But the competition shortboard specialists that come to mind are Rausche (M10 in SC) and NorCal (Shawn Rhodes in Pacifica).

Also, Ward Coffey does a lot of board for Ocean Beach, he grew up surfing here, now shapes on the west side.

Pearson is probably the biggest outfit north of Santa Barbara. Nothing wrong with his boards at all.

There are lots of choices. I usually go with John Schultze, in part because I live very close to the shop and know him and his work well. But right now Bill Hickey is making me a board, and I am getting antsy waiting for it.

Posted by: blakestah at April 12, 2004 04:37 PM

Amazing how holidays always seem to be glassy.

Mexisurf, catch any waves in China?? Maybe its too polluted along the coasts (if there are even any waves to be had). I once surfed near La Guaria airport in Caracas, everytime I paddled I grabbed ahold of a plastic bag or other piece of debris. My eyes were burning the last time I paddled out. Never returned. Place got destroyed in the mudslides 4 yrs ago. Think people are still buried under mud where the old breaks used to be.

US news sucks, should probably read BBC instead of CNN.

Pez- did you get signed up for that surftrip due to the ad on Craigslist. Saw something about that while looking for used surfboards. Looked fun. Glad to hear that a niceness regular is going. Hope you'll be able to send us cubie's loads of pics, stories and tell us bout the secret spots, unless of course there is a continually updated website we can check for ourselves. Good luck finding dank buds.

Posted by: traut at April 12, 2004 04:43 PM

mexisurf - yeah, that ones a dagger, though the perspective kind of makes it look even more so. it's a 7'8"!

should be a interesting journey.

now as for days that stand out.. i'm thinking december. early december. maybe the 6th or 7th? - in fact, i think mexisurf has some sweet pictures from that day.

Posted by: elias at April 12, 2004 04:51 PM

thanks korewin - a fish gene or two is what I think I'm looking for in a new 6-8

Posted by: eric at April 12, 2004 04:54 PM

creative grow-room

Posted by: Weedy McWeed at April 12, 2004 04:59 PM

re: shapers - mine was shaped by John Shultz at SF, specifically for fickle norcal beach conditions. Caveat, it's only my 2nd board, and I'm just trying super basic stuff. But I'm totally delighted with it, catches all sorts of junk water with or without me on it, and despite my best efforts I haven't managed to destroy it yet!

OB fyi is sunny, small, and very, very blown.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 12, 2004 05:01 PM

Eric, Ward Coffey makes a really cool performance fish. I got one in Feb. Similar is size to my shortboard but thickness moved forward, tail drawn out, rounded nose, swallow tail, flat rocker. Pretty smooth board. Basically got it for riding this summer. Works well in the onshore stuff.

Posted by: Kaiser at April 12, 2004 05:35 PM

That's great everyone score big during the holidays while I was stuck in shit hole San Diego. I got fun waves though. Probably best time were a few days at windansea, and cardiff. Nothing worth any more typing though.

Posted by: Ian at April 12, 2004 07:03 PM

Hey- the photo that dsx posted is from my silly site but I didn't take it. It was submitted by brian from cyberspace and I loved it.

Surfing photography is weird. Too easy to focus on the dramatic close-ups and make them unreal with Dr. PhotoShop. I keep reminding myself that the goal is to capture the session. Wet, foggy, windy, clear, blue, or whatever.

Posted by: Bruce at April 12, 2004 08:14 PM

Korewin, Blakestah, S.S. & Kaiser thanks for your thoughts I appreciate them.

Posted by: eric at April 12, 2004 08:16 PM

BBC claims more than 600 Iraqi civilian deaths in the past week. Pentagon says that the figure is much smaller. 56 American Deaths since recent uprisings.

Posted by: mexisurf at April 12, 2004 10:18 PM


So then it's 56.

Or go fucking surf in England.

Posted by: at April 12, 2004 11:03 PM

im drunk! and im on a computer at 1145!

Posted by: bagel at April 12, 2004 11:42 PM

hey martin potter is from england!!!!

Posted by: at April 12, 2004 11:42 PM

bagel

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