bombs out the back
Lay in bed and look at the trees out my window.
Ehhh.. not too windy.
Decide to suit-up and grab a quick, scrappy session before work.
Yesterday was miniscule and cruddy so i figured today would be the same.
Over the dunes and... what the!
Swell!
Not raging.. not really even working.. but..
Olas por favor.
Found a semi-consistent zone.
Some head-high peaks cruising through.
Caught a mediocre left.
Cold water.
Nobody out cept a red logger.
A bigger peak rolls in.
I'm pretty deep but i push to backdoor the right.
Balance myself for the drop and stand as the wave pitches.
Briefly fire down the line and turn up toward the lip.
Mellow top-turn.
Wave peters.
Best ride in weeks! ha!
Another nice right a few minutes later.
Do a cutback into the meat of the wave.
Felt good.
Another fun left.
End of sesh.
Experimental music i've been listening to lately (mostly Zorn and Laswell projects):
Massacre
Material
Last Exit
Painkiller
Henry Cow
Skeleton Crew
Tom Cora
Naked City
Bar Kokhba
Don Cherry (album called Brown Rice)
Slater missed his first round heat at JBay because he was "caught in transit?"
Daly City surf contest this morning
Georgia O'Keefe
I always thought this one looked like the view from road to Bolinas, looking back over the lagoon.
This one has always been my favorite.
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