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e- that's some killer shit. dude looks like he's dancin'.

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Posted by: EG Pimp [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 10:13 AM

e, we need to see your vid of foot bag skills. It's not just for hippies anymore.

Posted by: sd rider [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 10:29 AM

Thats extreme hacky-sack.

Posted by: toooshy [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 10:56 AM

Crazy vid E.

I looking for a good condition shortboard. Maybe a 6'5 Flyer II or something like that. Anybody got something they want to sell? I am willing to go as high as $35.75. Just kidding about the budget part.

email me at jdmcquoid at msn dot com.

BTW, there's a swap meet at Aqua on Sat.

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 11:00 AM

wonder when they will make a hackysack video game in which you imitate the moves, just like the waste of time dancing game.

Posted by: traut [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 11:12 AM

fancy footin', nice.

Anybody hear KQED "Forum" this morning (10am, 88.5FM) about the book "West of Jesus Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief"? By SF Bay Area resident named Steven Kotler?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1596910518/sr=8-1/qid=1152640473/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-6857662-2552964?ie=UTF8

Sorry to his supporters, but this guy sounded like a total kook who *barely* has a grasp on science or religions and knows precious little about surfing (beyond the obvious catharsis we all go through in the beginning, when we fall in love with the ocean). OK I have not read the book so I'm going purely off the intreview, but it was bad. Apparently his very first "religious experience" while surfing entailed paddling out at "30-foot" Indo (this is what he said -- BULLSHIT alert!) and getting dragged across the reef for 7 waves before returning to the boat bloodied and beaten. OK that sounds like really bad advice for any novice. He then goes on to give the most underinformed, hack interview I think I've ever heard on KQED Forum. He didn't offer any actual insight, mostly the host (Krasny) interpreted meanings and gave the author more credit than I think he deserved.

I feel bad b/c the author has Lyme Disease and this is really important to him and spiritual and all, but he sounds to me like everything that's wrong with surfing these days, he sounded like an exploiter -- primarily b/c he's not quiet and he's not experienced. Instead he's trying to use his very newbie "Woweee-wow!" surf experience to sell books and make himself famous. He lacks depth and years in the ocean and it shows. He's a self-proclaimed kook (and don't we all know some lovable ones, and haven't we all been one?) but it's not good in that earnest, self-depricating way; it's like he's trying to fit in too hard.

I know he lives in the Bay Area, he started out surfing OB around 1996 (he says) and he "got destroyed out there" and QUIT after a year. Later he got Lyme and felt like dying; somene took him surfing and he found himself again. Some of you may know this guy. I'm not trying to dismantle this guy's stoke but he's selling it on Amazon now, he totally latched on to the experience and turned it out for money.

I would love to hear some of his supporters explain why this guy is remotely qualified to comment on surfing, religion or science.

Posted by: Ancient Jetties [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 11:15 AM

AJ - I didn't hear the interview and never heard of him. But, he started surfing ten years ago and quit cuz it wa too rough. Then finds himself surfing 30 foot Indo? Does anybody surf 30 foot Indo?

As for Lyme Disease, my sister has had it for about 15 years. It can be be dangerous left untreated, but this is not AIDS for chrissake. Occasional medication when you feel tired usually takes care of it. My sister takes medicine about once every few years. I think it's a common anit-biotic.

Sounds like a total kook to me. I could be wrong.

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 11:48 AM

There is a new weisbecker book out. Not sure how good it is. Captain Zero was a fun read for me.

http://www.humdrumming.co.uk/product_info.php?ref=2&products_id=60&affiliate_banner_id=2¤cy=USD

Posted by: toooshy [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 11:53 AM

E, tell us about your experience playing footbag on lsd. I think I remember you doing that. How was it different? Did it take your game to another level or was it just impossible to do. The Coltrane interview yesterday got me thinking of that.

Gimmie surf. Please. Soon. Now.

Posted by: Hb [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 11:55 AM

Kaiser, do you take requests?
Set me up with a screensaver to get me through this day, please, and much appreciated;
brunette, euro, homely, demure and lithe...your pics rock...anybody surf tday? let's see E on the bag!

Posted by: andrewm [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 12:35 PM

I read an excerpt that he had in the NY times sunday paper a few weeks back..my impression was that he is certainly a kook ( he seemed to admit this) and at least he said that OB kicked his ass ( which of course it did) . I didnt hear his interview but I can only imagine Krasny asking him dumb Oprah like questions and him talking about how surfing saved his life. predictable yes, expoitative perhaps. Surfing has been expoited for years boys and girls, quit griping about it and get in the water!

Posted by: antman [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 12:54 PM

Speaking of acid, Syd Barrett died today, or last night. Let's give him a 21 hit salute. Shine on.

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 12:58 PM

Aloha.... long time no post on Niceness here... I am heading down to El Salvador for a week this Sat and was wondering if anyone had some info/thoughts/comments/advice. I am staying near K59 (la libertad). Any info is greatly appreciated. carnet at gmail dot com

bagus

Posted by: Darkstar [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 01:14 PM

sort of speaking of acid...
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/n/a/2006/07/10/national/a213221D59.DTL

and waves...
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/07/11/science/11wave.html?ex=1152763200&en=96f6af758e324cfd&ei=5087%0A

Posted by: joe fo [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 01:18 PM

well put dennis.

21 hit salute for syd!!
i am in.

i listened to that show on forum and while
the guy's surfing abilities can be brought to
question, what i thought WAS interesting was
the chemical changes in the brain that he was
referring to that surfing can engender. pretty
cool in that regard.
bottom line : KEEP SURFING

Posted by: korewin [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 02:17 PM

well put dennis.

21 hit salute for syd!!
i am in.

i listened to that show on forum and while
the guy's surfing abilities can be brought to
question, what i thought WAS interesting was
the chemical changes in the brain that he was
referring to that surfing can engender. pretty
cool in that regard.
bottom line : KEEP SURFING

Posted by: korewin [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 02:18 PM

That video is freestyle walking meets riverdance meets dedicated foot-bagger. Needless to say my jaw went slack while I watching it. Very impressive.

Haha, leave it to AJ to refute any of the religious commentary made. I didn't hear it, but I hate people that speak with authority on subjects they know very little of. Surfing can be very a spirtual thing for me, but never a religious one. Bummer about the Lyme disease though

Funny, today's word of the day from dictionary.com was:

mountebank \MOUN-tuh-bank\, noun:

2. A charlatan; a boastful pretender to knowledge or a skill.

Anyway, drove down to SC. FLAAAAAAAT. Except for one west-side spot which had about 15 dudes bumping elbows, all pro probably. Funny to see Peter Mel suiting up to go surf the waist-high waves. I didn't think Mav charges even surfed small waves anymore. Anyway, settled on a SMC spot.

Korewin's got it. Keep surfing.

Posted by: ian [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 02:43 PM

My friend PJ sent me this from France.

For some reason the French love to ditch their boards in heavy beach breaks. This is what happens:

But when you don't ditch your board.. You may get a good one.

Posted by: ian [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 03:29 PM

offshoressssss

Posted by: ian [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 03:31 PM

Sweet pics Ian. Without giving too much away, was this in Biarritz area? Sounds fun, great food, nice looking ladies, and waves. Just wonder how accessible the 420 is though.
Maybe this winter.

Posted by: toooshy [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 03:34 PM

Damn those pics look nice. I just got back form 2 surfless weeks in taly, great food world cup celbrations ( yeah its gonna be a Czech republic vs Holland final, sure ) but alas no surf. It was unbearably hot but a cold fron came in as I left. As I was flying over Rome on my way out I looked down towards the ancient port of ostia and was amazed to see miles of sany beachbreak with 3-6 foot ( it appeared ) peaky surf!!! Man if I had only known!

Posted by: antman [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 03:48 PM

damn ian.. awesome pics as usual.

that mushroom research article in the sfgate was rad!

here are some vids of yours truly playing a bit of ye ol' footbag.. i've posted these before.
E shred

E shred 2

yeah hb.. i've had some nutty times playing footbag on the lsd. A few times in front of hundreds of people at outdoor shows and such. We'd be shredding and random tripper dudes would just freak out. good times.


Posted by: e [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 03:52 PM

Agree w/ you KOREWIN, Kotler regurgitated some standing evidence that neuro chemicals anodyne, serotonin, dopamine, endorphins, etc mix to create a "flow" state, which puts you directly in the moment and removes the sensation that the body is much different from the element or environment it's moving across (kind of a "melding" effect, when we "lose ourselves in the moment", that hard-to-describe spiritual rush). The recently discovered anodyne connection, and the anodyne receptor (same location as THC receptor) is worthy of discussion, maybe I'm just a little too protective of the ASL (heh heh) and I don't want more wankers paddling out at OB trying to get their brain-cocktail swerve on b/c it's the "raddest new fad dooooodz!" That's kind of how he sounded.

The "I rode this 3-story wave" thing just set me off , though. NO way he rode that big a wave in Indo. Pure crap.

ANTMAN: Point well taken, and of course it's just another "surf story" but this one hit me a little closer to home than the tons of other surf-marketing flotsam out there. Just something about the guy in particular, his voice, the way he described things -- I would have preferred if he had written a work of fiction to very subtlely get his points across instead of trying to tell the world "this is how it all works and I now think I know everything that matters about it." This was just personal to me -- I'm reacting to someone I felt was behaving like a Charlatan, like here comes some Gen X soothsaying minister of the ocean who has no license to be. He wants so much to have this spiritual connection -- something unique to each person -- that to write a book about it just seems to water it down in an attempt to pigeonhole its meaning. Which can't be done, or at least he sure as hell didn't do it convincingly. Interpretation is a bitch, just ask Susan Sontag. ;^)

Bottom line: KEEP SURFING

Posted by: Ancient Jetties [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 03:53 PM

that video was pure honkypox

Posted by: anon local [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 03:56 PM

ancient jetties....
well done. i concur.
you said it perfectly.

i DO wish there were some surf here.....
need that buzzzzzz...

cheers ya'll...

Posted by: korewin [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:02 PM

Hey AJ

I heard that interview today. More correctly I was on 280 and heard the beginning, had to take a call and then heard the end. I thought it sounded really interesting, but have to admit I missed the meat of the interview.

On the surface it sounded like he’d taken a leaf out of the “what the Bleep” book and spun an interesting and nice sounding story out of thin air.

I’m a rampant atheist but I did like the concept of ‘oneness’, I’ve had some trippy experiences in the water (no drugs needed) that I’ve not had to the same extent with other sports / activities (except maybe auto racing) – but at the same time he tried to tie that in with the whole dopamine thing, and I somewhat lost the connection or point he was making there.

Even on a big day the feeling you get from surfing is very different from the feeling you get from bungee jumping etc… yet the same mix of drugs is involved. So what gives there?

I think I can understand your frustration with him using surfing as a mechanism to reach out to the popular culture to get his point across (and flog his book). Not to name call, but also anyone who quits OB after a year is missing the point. My ‘religious’ (in the non religious sense of the word that is) experiences at OB have mostly come after a 50 minute paddle out in huge winter conditions…(mind you that’s cause I'm close to blacking out maybe!) and it sounds like he’s more of fairweather guy....

It seems the whole magically story of metaphysics comes up in one form or another here and there…and various people use various methods to channel the whole thing into various forms of commercial gain…

I’ll have to listen to the whole audio when it goes up, and get back to you on my final thoughts.

Meanwhile I’ll second Korewin’s comment!

Posted by: ankors [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:10 PM

Andrew, this is all I got thus far....

Posted by: Kaiser [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:27 PM

cool bill laswell interview

Posted by: e [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:30 PM

learning to surf can be a life-changing event. we glow, we have purpose. we live more intensly. after a few years, it gets integrated, and the first rush dies down some. but during those first few years, there is an insane urge to TELL EVERYBODY ABOUT IT. sounds like the guy on KQED just gave in to the urge. (a friend of mine in her first two years surfing started writing a book about how surfing feels natural because we evolved from the water... fifteen years later, she just rips).

Posted by: jd [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:30 PM

im not saying that any of you are bad writers but you are creative and may want to compete in this next year: http://www.bulwer-lytton.com/

http://www.cnn.com/2006/US/07/11/bad.writing.reut/index.html

Posted by: traut [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:32 PM

Ancient Jetties

I agree, people like that can be very irritating , especially ones who make extravagant claims regarding surfing that are swallowed up by the general public. I was watching Tv in Europe of all places and I saw kelly slater giveing surfing lessons on a reality TV show, it was less cerebral but equally expoitative and disgusting. Overall, the expoitation of surfing , be it the intellectual or the "Spiccoli" type make be turn my head away in revulsion and often anger.

Posted by: antman [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:39 PM

surf. it's fun to talk about..

Posted by: e [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:47 PM

I heard the interview this AM. He just sounded like another well educated newbie that sold his soul and then got sick and decided that connecting with nature and himself through surfing breathed new hope into his despaired filled life. Yea for him. Now saved, he had to make a living somehow and since the surf art market is pretty saturated, the "surfing will save you" literary genere is growing. i'm into oneness and flow fo sure. but pimping it just doesn't seem to be in the spirit of it all does it? of course claiming 30' indo doesn't help his legit factor either. bitter pills i'm on.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:52 PM

huh pretty funny stuff traut.

Check out this year's winner:

Guigli's winning entry read: "Detective Bart Lasiter was in his office studying the light from his one small window falling on his super burrito when the door swung open to reveal a woman whose body said you've had your last burrito for a while, whose face said angels did exist, and whose eyes said she could make you dig your own grave and lick the shovel clean."


"My motivation for entering the contest was to find a constructive outlet for my dementia," Guigli quipped.

Posted by: ankors [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 04:58 PM

getting closer, I'll keep my eye out hehe

Posted by: andrewm [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 06:32 PM

getting closer, I'll keep my eye out hehe

Posted by: andrewm [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 06:32 PM

Hey in case anyone wants to make their own mind up, here's the download page for the KQED piece from this morning:

http://www.kqed.org/epArchive/R607111000

I'll have to listen to it before I repass my judgement! Although he does sound more annoying this time around.

Posted by: ankors [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 08:07 PM

I watched the video again, this time with the volume off while listening to Pharoah Sander's "Astral Traveling" after taking a hit of Mr. Natural and God told me that I was right...it is honkypox.

Posted by: anon local [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 11, 2006 10:00 PM
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