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Minced

Tom Curren slotted in a South Pacific barrel.

Friday party at Mollusk.
Hipster/artster/retro-fishter.
Euro-mullets.
Cuties and scenesters.
Guy telling me about doing Exctasy at least twice a week, every week for two years. Now all he does is smoke chronic and shape surfboards.
Dudes in one-size-too-small izod shirts and sperry topsiders.
Good vibes.
PBR.
Cajun Pacific open.

Hayes Valley street fair.
Oh my lord this city is holding!
Beautiful, stylish women all over the place.
Thank you to all the demure, low-key, funky girl-next-doors.

RIP Greg Frydenlund.
Didn't know him but a large group of people paddled out in his honor the other day.
Life is precious and short.

A few waves lapped up over the weekend.
Lerm smacked a number of lips.
Watched a smooth asian guy slice through a few.
I mostly kooked, as usual.
Caught one decent one this morning.

Backdoorish takeoff on a shoulder-high insider.
Low-tide shallowness creates concave pocket.
Ledgy take-off followed by immediate couple-a-pumps along a glassy wall.
A defined lip presents itself and i bottom turn then ride up to meet the waiting lip.
A soft impact is followed by a pleasurable ride down with the whitewater.
Mellowly ride it out.
surf.

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Currently reading Marquis de Sade's Justine. One of the antagonists in the story had this to say in regard to people's belief in God, "Primitive man, terrified by the phenomena which harried him, had necessarily to believe that a sublime being unknown to him had the direction of their operation and influence; it is native to weakness to suppose strength and to fear it; the human mind, then too much in its infancy to explore, to discover in Nature's depths the laws of motion, the unique springs of the entire mechanism that struck him with awe, found it simpler to fancy a motor in this Nature than to view Nature as her own mover."

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Just a reminder that the comments are still eff'ed up. If you've already logged in and it still says, "click here to sign in." Just refresh your screen a few times and it should work. No internet at home makes it tough for me to work on the back-end stuff. Hopefully in the next few weeks i'll be able to stay late at work and either upgrade moveable type or install a whole new blog software (wordpress). We'll see. thanks for being patient!

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someone posted these on the surfermag.com forum


Woo hoo, surfed some mushy crap burgers on a log in the blown out early afternoon Saturday. It was loads of fun though, as I haven't been getting in the water much lately thanks to my substantial booze and pill habit.

Posted by: eric d [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 30, 2006 11:16 AM

dam sharks are everywhere

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Posted by: humanzee [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 30, 2006 11:26 AM

I decided to take out the longboard this weekend for the first time in at least 6 month. Not being accustomed to have that much board in front of me, I got smacked in the face pretty hard when trying some kinda misbegotten duck dive. I quickly felt my face and checked for loose teeth while thinking, "Oh no, I pulled a Dennis." Luckily, they were all there, and aside from a bruise that goes through the flesh on my face (visible on the outside and inside of my mouth), I'm no worse for the wear.

Memorial Day wetsuit seems to be going on today and tomorrow for you people out there with money. I've decided I can make it to Labor Day with some more dental floss.

No review on the bicycle rack, as it doesn't fit on the oval frame of a road bike. I gotta whip something up from the hardware store to get it on there.

Posted by: AndrewInJackLondonSquare [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 30, 2006 12:22 PM

aaghhh...we need some surf...That Winkipop picture is unreal. I'm trying to visualize myself in that guy's place and it just ain't happening.

Posted by: KG [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 30, 2006 12:47 PM

LOL Andrew. Sorry to hear about the pain though.

Greg Frydenlund - man what a bummer. Didn't know the guy but he was only 46. He died of a heart attack mountain biking in the hills near Marin. Another 50ish SF'er had a heart attack surfing last week around mid-beach. He was able to get himself to the beach, drove home, and his wife took him to the ER.

It really makes me nervous (lately) when I have to paddle through rows of man-eating white water, and I feel my heart working triple time. I dunno, I think OB is starting to take its toll on me.

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 30, 2006 01:02 PM

NorCal is having a wetsuit sale, too. Might be over by now, tho'. Got my new wettie on Saturday. Too much dental floss on the old one. The last straw was when I was getting suited up last week and as I was fastening the neck, I pulled away a 2-inch piece of neoprene. Stoked for the new 'un......

I think Wise's sale is for the whole of May this year.....

Posted by: limevoodoo [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 30, 2006 01:03 PM

Where everybody at? I have no trouble with logins at all. Suddenly I feel... disconnected ;-(

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 10:52 AM

Do not be afraid of death...
Be afraid of a half lived life.
Right On.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ry7DvtXM6qI&dpos=0

Posted by: toneman [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 11:45 AM

when i'm grown up I'm going to go left at jaws

Posted by: reefboy [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 12:42 PM

The significance of a man is not in what he attains but in what he longs to attain.
....unknown....

Posted by: toneman [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 01:09 PM

Toneman wrote: "The significance of a man is not in what he attains but in what he longs to attain."

I don't understand that one. We long for so much. It's not really measurable. I long to write longer smoother sentences.

I've fully lived more than half my life. So do I qualify as one who has lived more than a half lived life?

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 01:26 PM

I kinda like not seeing a bunch of posts...sort of like going to you favorite spot and being the only one out. The whole "less is more" thing.....

Anyway, what are the odds of semi favorable winds this weekend? 1 in 10?

Posted by: duncan [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 01:37 PM

I used to kind of like Laird. But I think he is starting to believe his own bullshit now.

While it's hard to blame him for selling out to some extent and going all commercial, he does talk more BS now than he ever did - hyping himself I guess, playing an image.

Glen Plake still remains my true hero...

Posted by: ankors [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 02:11 PM

1 in 10 sounds about right:

SAT...NW WINDS 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 3 TO 5 FT.
MIXED SWELL S 3 TO 5 FT AND NW 3 FT. AREAS OF FOG.
.SUN...NW WINDS 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 3 TO 5 FT.
MIXED SWELL S 2 TO 4 FT AND NW 3 FT. AREAS OF FOG.

Hey Dennis, shoutout if you're slurfing tonight or tomorrow. I've been taking The Flying Brick out for kicks. It must be REALLY flat out because I haven't pearled yet, but gotten longish rides. Huh.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 02:14 PM

Yes, interesting how sparse the posts are yet we read on all the same and in a way appreciate all teh posters, for a while it was getting out of control. Sounds like there have been brief windows in the early am for surf, good on ya if you got something rideable this weekend! I alas, have been dry since last monday. Did, however get some gardening done but watched in horror as my puppy dug up all the freshly planted and destined for the Pesto basil plants!

Posted by: antman [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 02:50 PM

Duncan, even if the winds aren't favorable I've got a sick little cove that is offshore in all directions. But it takes an East swell..

And here's a nice little shot from a couple decent days in Australia.

I'd like to compliment Everything Mixed Bagel for another fine comic with a nice subtle touch of Audrey Tatou, because it's true.


Ankors, I'm a fan of Ricky Grigg and some of the original watermen who went into the unknown and were the first ones to start the ball rolling as far as pushing the envelope.

Posted by: ian [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 02:53 PM

Glen Plake rules! I skied w/ him err.... I mean I tried to follow him. Holy crap!

Hey does anyone know if taking a jetski to access the ranch is a no no?

Those new Shark Park pics are amazing!

Posted by: artifact [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 02:59 PM

And a few more for good measure


This was one of the heaviest waves I've ever seen. Hard to tell from the shitty photo. The intimidation factor was just about trippled when I saw the reef was about 3 feet under the water.

Posted by: ian [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 03:06 PM

yeah, I must say I liked Laird more when he just pulled into those enormous frickin waves and then disappeared without saying anything. His more recent beach-Nietzsche impressions are kind of silly...

Fred the Original Nietzsche says:

What is good? All that heightens the feeling of power in man, the will to power, power itself. What is bad? All that is born of weakness.

Posted by: reefboy [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 03:37 PM

Was there a time when Laird was not commercial? Didn’t he start out as a GQ model. Maybe before my time.

How strong are the on shores going to be tomorrow?

Posted by: TJ [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 03:45 PM

Laird story: Nearly 2 decades ago on an island a 4.5hr flight away, I was making sailboard fins for a living. Laird was just starting to windsurf and getting good fast. He was building up a list of sponsors. Having a new company I offered to sponsor him. He replied: "Can you pay me $2000 a month?"
Me: "Shit dude I don't even make $2000 dollars a month. And your not that known in the windsurfing world. Why would I give you money like that over Dave Kalama who is known?"
LH: "Becuase I'm worth it....I'll win contests."

A week later he won the windsurfer world speed sailing contest.

Back by the shop a few weeks later he pokes his head in and says: "Hey it's gonna cost you $3000 a month now if you want to sponsor me."

Needless to say, I never sponsored him. But the guy can back up his ego with skills.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 04:16 PM

3to5 -

What do you do for a living now, and what lead to your transition from sailboard fin making to what you do now?

Posted by: friend #1 [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 04:24 PM

Pretty sure I know that right with the funky headland Ian. Far North NSW? Spent a lot of time out there. Wouldn't mind being there right now, actually.......

Posted by: tucker [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 04:46 PM

Shaka brada ya mada brahhhh dude.. Wut up IAN!

I need outta this place... AHHHHHHH:-O

Posted by: mexi [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 05:22 PM

Surely this is the man?

Posted by: ankors [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 05:59 PM

Oh yeah, he da man! 'Twas beautiful out there on Sunday morning, saw nearly the whole damn beach as I drifted north past the Mexican Mayors Club. Anybody else catch it?

Posted by: Spiderman [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 08:55 PM

Sunday? Not me. Just workin away in the dungeon for days on. But I'm finally done........

And I got a new wetsuit that needs to get wet. Spidey, you wanna goof on Friday? Low tide is 9:30 am. We could take a ride.......

Posted by: limevoodoo [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 11:29 PM

I'll ping ya thru the regular channels.......

Posted by: limevoodoo [TypeKey Profile Page] at May 31, 2006 11:30 PM

are you fucking kidding me?

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that's Donovan BTW

Posted by: EG Pimp [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 1, 2006 07:25 AM
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