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Surf Therapy

Emotional stomach punches.
Psychological mountain climbs.
Life angst.
Life ennui.
Life being life.
Rich, complex, horrid, beautiful.
Toxic, sublime, painful, wonderful.
Sometimes you can't escape the vice.
The gripping crush of expectations lost.
Thoughts pound, occupy and take-over.
Moping on your couch doesn't help.
It's onshore and crappy.
And cold.
Who cares, go for a surf anyway.
OH man it's really ugly out there.
Oooo but look at that little corner.
Potential rideables.
Scramble through the breakers, avoid chaotic wave detonations.
Get slammed and thrown around but your brain is distracted from the other.
It's still enjoyable to hunt for waves.
Always enjoyable to observe and predict what the wave is gonna do.
Energy manifested.
Wind translated.
Make a session out of marginal junk.
Find the needles in the haystack.
Rain on the noggin.
Electrifying arctic water down the wetter and into the crotch area.
niceness.
Drop into a steep one and bank off a mini section.
Float around on the inside after you leash breaks.
Float on your back and look at the clouds moving overhead.
Float and let the ocean calm and possess.
Float and just exist in the present moment.
Float and feel the weight hammer.
Float and feel the weight magnify.
Float and feel the weight dissolve.
Waves washing over.

nine4surfah photo
niceness

photo from indo surf and lingo


first in

Posted by: FILO at April 10, 2006 09:39 AM

sharks!

Posted by: I saw them clearly through the summer fog, I just had to get my nephew out of the water! at April 10, 2006 09:42 AM

the scariest landlord of all

http://tinyurl.com/83bd8

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 09:49 AM

Beware of the "water mafia from NorCal";

Water Mafia

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 09:51 AM

E and Niceness
Seeking/need advice!
After 30 years of surfing between Big Sur and Mendo it looks like I'm set to relocate to the North East for a new job. The word from my new employer is that I can live anywhere in the NE as I'll be traveling all around managing distributors. Rhode Island? Maine? NY? NJ? How bummed will I be after a lifetime of Ca? I'm so nervous about the decision and haven't accepted it yet, but the pay is awesome and it would be an adventure to a strange new land. I'd be grateful for any advice on this. Just how bad/good is the surf? Where can I rent a nice cottage near the ocean that's slightly rural and still have easy access to roads and airports? What is it really like to surf 40 degrees water? Thanks! Great fun out there yesterday, OB showing the first smile I've seen in a few moons....

Posted by: Andrew at April 10, 2006 09:53 AM

fuck, OB sucks. If I were you, i'd just go for the money. Jersey has good waves, occassionally.

That loose change video is off the hook. Good find.

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 10:22 AM

NJ is the most consistent of them all if you need to travel to different spots. Ideally Montauk would be nice as it is exposed to most swells and has a nice coastline for points and beach breaks.

I hate NJ, but it does get better surf than alot of the coast. When the ENE and ESE winds blow there is no place for shelter. Southern NJ does get a little more protection from the NE winds.

RI - alot of people in the water there, but it also gets pretty good. Different parts are exposed the SE swells and some are exposed to the East swells.

If it were me, I would move to cape Cod or northern maine, but I just like to get away from people.

Posted by: mofo at April 10, 2006 10:32 AM

Joisey! most consistent. most spots. most crowded. best access to everything else. the fishing aint half bad either.

you're request is sure to bring out all the trannies and their respective haters.

Posted by: the jers at April 10, 2006 10:50 AM

boston baby boston. walden pond wave machine now completed.
no vibes here man. everyone's stoned and equal, ASL� for the cube dweller bro.
come on people now, smile on your brother, everybody get together, try to move to massachusetts right now.

Posted by: Thoreau the bums out! at April 10, 2006 10:53 AM

the weekend posts are very interesting- self stroking, "local" chest thumping, bvb and slayer bashing, sex dialouge.

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 11:00 AM

just ran across this shaun tomson it is insane:
http://www.surfline.com/video/vids/2006/apr/shauntomson/index.cfm?videotype=qt
if i could get just one wave like this on my 50th and just ride it straight screaming down the line (rather than knocking the lip off repeatedly like he does and I will never be able to do), my life would be complete.

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 11:00 AM

that was me that posted that shaun tomson thing, not that it matters

Posted by: steamwand at April 10, 2006 11:01 AM

cannot believe this crap. no more naming ponds. we have a stringent vague policy here. go suck face.

Posted by: golden pond local at April 10, 2006 11:01 AM

Posted by: yeeea boyeee at April 10, 2006 11:03 AM

Norman, you old poop.

Posted by: Walter the Fish at April 10, 2006 11:06 AM

Don't even think of coming to Mass. We'll pound you into chowdah!

Posted by: Scrod at April 10, 2006 11:10 AM

thanks
heaps of seemingly awesome rentals on Cape Cod ie
3 bdrm on 1 1/2 acres 2 blocks from beach near major roads for $1400....same for Maine and Rhode Island. I haven't research NJ or Long Island yet. I'm leaning to less crowds better lifestyle....ack, this is stressing me out but all comments appreciated....

Posted by: andrew at April 10, 2006 11:21 AM

I'd say live in brooklyn and surf Strong Island. Then you get the culture/babes/ease-of-transport of NYC plus some not-too-bad surf.

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 11:32 AM

What's it like to live without a face or name Anon.? Why don't you take your personal sorrows and weird vendetta's and shove them up your ass :).

Posted by: Da Possee at April 10, 2006 11:37 AM

Jizzy - man: Can you handle the heckler for me? Thanks. Danny's cool. Why be bashing the locals who by all accounts own it all.

Posted by: 10 year plan at April 10, 2006 11:39 AM

Shaun Thomson is a true inspiration!!!

On my way to check the beach, looks like we might have something to work with on this dropping tide, maybe a "dems some good scraps!" kind of day. Keeping an eye for the "water mafia" for sure -- I mean Ooooooo they got that protection racket locked up on my favorite sandbar and they're sending the "heavy" to snap my index finger off at the second knuckle if I get outta line. They've got the quik-set concrete, put you in cement shoes right there while you're out in the line-up. "You're last wave is to the bottom, ya tranny jamoke -- tell Davey Jones that BVB and the OB Mafia said 'bonjourno' ya rat bastid!!"

To avoid such unpleasntries I bring them a nice wad of cash, a homestyle spaghetti/meatball with a "nice-a sauce-a" from a 200-pound North Beach woman, + 1 gourmet cigar sprinkled with the finest kief, and the waves finally open up. They still wax my windows and call me "kook" but what would you expect for a measly $742?

Posted by: Ancient Jetties at April 10, 2006 11:43 AM

Rhode Island...

Cape Cod (you will hate summer traffic)

northern New Jersey.

Scituate.

And none of them come close to NorCal consistency.

My personal values say the chance is there, don't do a halfway kinda thing, get a place where you can walk to some surf, and smell the salt in the air when you are at home. That is far more important than the diffs between Rhode Island, Jersey, and Cape Cawd.

Rhode Island and Maine have reefs, the others mostly beach.

Posted by: Tranny at April 10, 2006 11:47 AM

The water mafia guy lost two surftechs, he should be thanking the thieves.

Posted by: Tranny at April 10, 2006 11:48 AM

plus on rhode island, if the wind is bad you can just go to the other side.

Posted by: lost in america at April 10, 2006 11:48 AM

With all the sadness and trauma going on in the world at the moment, it is worth reflecting on the death of a very important person, which
almost went unnoticed last week.

Larry LaPrise, the man that wrote "The Hokey Pokey" died peacefully at the age of 93. The most traumatic part for his family was getting him into the coffin. They put his left leg in, and then the trouble started.

Posted by: traut at April 10, 2006 12:00 PM

Your kidding yourself if you think you'll get even 1/5th the amount of surf back East that you get here.
Move to New York, make money, immerse yourself in culture, chicks, awesome food, and fly to the Carribbean, France, California, or Mexico for twice yearly surfaris.
You're not gonna surf much back there. The surf sucks.
Maybe a few sessions in the late Fall on a hurricane swell. But that's hardly living a surf lifestyle...

Posted by: Surfseeker7 at April 10, 2006 12:15 PM

Larry Laprise has already been dead for a decade. Although, it is nice to see the same jokes running around the internet a second time. Kinda like syndication.

Posted by: Tranny at April 10, 2006 12:15 PM

Let's all move to the East Coast. We can build a tree-house and have a bath-tub in the middle,maybe some big pillows...
Must ride a fish.

Posted by: Mollusk at April 10, 2006 12:18 PM

New Surfer Mag is very San Francentric. Dan Duane on "being a surfer and living in a city" plus other bits including the guys from Aqua on "pluses and minuses of living in a city as a surfer" Photos etc. I'm neutral on this exposure... I don't really think this kind of stuff makes people move to SF... life is too complicated for that, but I'm sure some will not be happy about the articles.

Posted by: Walker at April 10, 2006 12:26 PM

Special Reminder!
He guy's only four more days until the 'Meet and Greet' at the Beach Chalet! Just added this morning is a half hour 'Spoken Word' segment. This however is reserved for anonomous posters with turd fetishes and the inabilty to wrench ones decidedly male psyche out of the "needs to beat-off-to something" stage of their lives. Another 15 minutes might be added for guys who surf once a month (you know who you are). Depends on the amount of people willing to come clean! Could be a snoozer so we might fill the time with a poem or two from Slab's wife, a poetess in her own right.
Korewin, have you thought of a dress code/ attire requirement? Bagel: I can help you hang some art! Call me. And E, Tommy G. and Tommy C. have agreed to let you jam with them if you want!
Jizzy has agreed to handle the disposable tabelcloths and napkins.
Please remember: Surfers come in all shapes and shoe sizes, some have big dicks some have itt bitty ones; some have brass balls and some obviously have none at all. I can say this through the experience of this weekend surfing a dumpy beach break shorepound with 60 other people on one peak on a stretch of beach with a hundred similar peaks? Everyone the same but different. Can't wait to meet all of you!

Posted by: Clod Von Hammer at April 10, 2006 12:27 PM

In Northern NJ you're close to NYC (culture, chicks) and Newark (airport). Manasquan, Sea Girt, Red Bank, Rumson. Not cheap but nice shore towns.

Cape Cod in the winter is really harsh.

Posted by: The Boss at April 10, 2006 12:30 PM

nice one traut.

well played.


Posted by: korewin at April 10, 2006 12:32 PM

clad van hammer can eat a bag of dicks

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 12:38 PM

would very much enjoy jamming with Tommy Guerrero and Tommy Curren. thanks Clod.

Posted by: e at April 10, 2006 12:39 PM

3 bdrm house with large yard 2 blocks from the entrance to Fire Island for $1400....seems like a
cool area...3bdrm farmhouse on Cape Cod with 1 acre of yards and gardens 1/2 mile from the beach for $1700....hmmm, nice options compared to SF. I know I won't be scoring surf all the time, but to have the ocean remain in my life & surf at least some of the time...thanks again for the comments and advice as I make this major life decision

Posted by: andrew at April 10, 2006 12:47 PM

Clod Van Hammer went all out! woo Clod! Funny how you were at that peak with all the rest of the big iand small dicked surfers. Im sure you were showin em' how its done eh bro brah?

Posted by: Fashion Police at April 10, 2006 01:03 PM

I would not move to fire island. Unless you like cheezy LI guys. Cape Cod has surf at least a couple days a week, assuming you have a longboard and are willing to surf thigh to waist high mushy waves.

Fall and winter get good there. we would make the drive to avoid crowds and the waves are always bigger on the cape. If the winds are NE, you can head to the southern part of the cod.

You will get more surf than you think, but its the east coast. Anyhow, i think its way better than living in the east bay.

Posted by: mofo at April 10, 2006 01:04 PM

hey fat mouth, this isn't a website for picking up gay guys

Posted by: courtesy at April 10, 2006 01:12 PM

thanks mofo

Posted by: andrew at April 10, 2006 01:15 PM

hey clod...


sarcasm warning :

white dinner jackets. cummerbund and tie color your choice.
martinis shaken NOT stirred, and a cigarette case mandatory. walther ppk, one round in the chamber, cvh on the shell casing.


Posted by: korewin at April 10, 2006 01:17 PM

OH MY GOD, SURFER MAGAZINE JUST EXPOSED SAN FRANCISCO. OH NO!!! SKY = FALLING!!!
what a joke. grow up.

Posted by: Bob Kelso at April 10, 2006 01:18 PM

Jizzy, do you ever get shit on your nose when you stick it in girls' asses?

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 01:19 PM

Hey did you read the response I wrote to my last post?

Posted by: Myself at April 10, 2006 01:21 PM

clod, you should have paddled to another peak. stop whining.

Posted by: Bob Kelso at April 10, 2006 01:23 PM

Anybody up for protesting US Immigration policy with me today? Lets march. Thanks, I'm rich and bored today.

also, can someone come up with some good ideas as to where we can march to, and what we should be chanting? I just feel like protesting something.

Posted by: Ben Affleck at April 10, 2006 01:26 PM

Whoa there Korewinker - I knew you had it in ya! Alright! Do you know knots too?
Bag of dicks; interesting, hahahahahahaha. I wonder what a bag of dicks looks like? O'OH wait, let me google for an image...'

Posted by: Slatherer at April 10, 2006 01:26 PM

Oh man - man oh mano! This blog is Weird.
Um, like the peak was like empty north of the ilk but like filled in with same; took like about half an hour before like the whoring hordes like took it over. Some big brazzo guy in a blue tutu with a goe-tee out there screaming at the kooks. Gotta love Frisco. Did they mention B.L.T. in that article and who the fuck made Danial Dweeb an authority on the beach?

Posted by: Clod Von Hammer at April 10, 2006 01:32 PM

(oh oh oh i hope they mention me)

Posted by: blt's brain at April 10, 2006 01:33 PM

clod, let me guess, the pack followed you wherever you paddled? Like refridgerator magnets maybe? you were first guy on the peak, then the whoring hordes appeared from over the dunes, right? somebody was in your way on every wave, therefore preventing you from ripping, correct? it is always somebodys fault, right??

Posted by: Perry Cox at April 10, 2006 01:41 PM

post of the day, yesterday:

>>>
Roommates wanted: we have a one bedroom 5 bath pad that over-looks vfw and the windmill.We are looking for open-minded transplants who don't mind a little pain. stop by, let's talk art,surfing and see where this goes. Must ride a fish.

Posted by: Mollusk on April 9, 2006 07:18 PM
>>>

Posted by: Norcheco at April 10, 2006 01:51 PM

No man..it don't go that deep, a little game I like to call, "just the tip."

Posted by: jizzy at April 10, 2006 02:05 PM

Anyone notice the poor water quality lately. Got out of the water last night around sunset, and my face was sort of burning. I showered immediately when i got home, but the story of that dude in Hawaii who fell into the yacht harbor was racing through my mind...Should we be paying attention to those big yellow signs?

Posted by: sactomex at April 10, 2006 02:07 PM

my face was burning last night to0.

Posted by: jizzy at April 10, 2006 02:07 PM

bvb openly trolls for gay dudes on this blog, just get a life--or get a dude, dude

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 02:10 PM

Posted by: sactomex at April 10, 2006 02:14 PM

damn...that was a good'n

Posted by: sactomex at April 10, 2006 02:14 PM

I also saw the Shaun T video. Wonderful. My 50th b-day is in 8 months. I have some catching up to do.

Posted by: J at April 10, 2006 02:18 PM

surf was so fun this weekend, I'm glad I moved here. I like it heavy, like my women. I cant wait for fall!

Posted by: former huntington at April 10, 2006 02:21 PM

Posted by: sactomex at April 10, 2006 02:48 PM

don't forget Shaun Tomson is a friggen legend former world champ and comparing your surfing to his because of being a similar age is like comparing your boxing abilities to Mike Tyson's because you have a similar number of fists.

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 02:48 PM

hahahahahaaaa....BURN.

Posted by: KIX at April 10, 2006 02:55 PM

surf sucked shit this weekend. totally sucked by 12 on Sat, and mildly okay on Sunday. Wouldn't even chance it today.

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 03:02 PM

I found good surf yesterday but am waaaaay to cool to brag about it on an internet blog.

Posted by: mr. cool at April 10, 2006 03:25 PM

dont blink.

Posted by: you'll miss stuff at April 10, 2006 03:25 PM

first post!

Posted by: nona at April 10, 2006 03:29 PM

music makes me happy and sad at the same time.

Posted by: depressed dude at April 10, 2006 03:35 PM

Please dont bag on me anymore.

Posted by: bagel at April 10, 2006 03:39 PM

Kix is a dix. Are you even half the surfer of Shaun?

Posted by: ST Fan from the ages at April 10, 2006 03:44 PM

also HB and other reggea dub heads. check out this band, Guerilla Hi-Fi someone recomended them this weekend. it appears that they played a show for aqua a few years back, props to the aqua guy wiht the good ears. anyway its some of the best new dub ive heard. rootsy. local heads too. you cant download it all here

http://homepage.mac.com/amandacartier/guerrillahifi.info/index.html

Posted by: bajel at April 10, 2006 03:46 PM

Posted by: e at April 10, 2006 04:05 PM

Foggy photos from a weekend at the secret spot south of town at surfhumor.com. I'm using a printing service if you want to order any shots of your ugly mugs, but the best part is they have a pretty good slide show feature.

Posted by: Lizard North at April 10, 2006 04:09 PM

Quinvera was so good yesterday. shit!

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 04:10 PM

awesome shot Bruce!

Posted by: e at April 10, 2006 04:16 PM

Dear Fanboy,

ASL.


Posted by: KIX at April 10, 2006 04:18 PM

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 05:01 PM

ok then
I'm thinking Cape Cod is perhaps the best bet....rural, some surf, good rent....or Maine....NJ just strikes me as a bit heavy; OB with less surf (imagine that)....am I super off base here?
Or, RI looks good....or the Hamptons. Is it possible to get a good rental there?
E? Peace....

Posted by: andrew at April 10, 2006 05:26 PM

the news spread out across the county from it's mid town epicenter via the crews discussing all things surf during surf checks, gas station fillups, liqour store runs and such.(pre-cell era) shaun tomson was in town. my crew argued all night where we thought he'd surf tomorrow AM. we were going to be on it. well we choose a different spot than he. but it so happens he did luck into a stretch of beach between a couple of points with a favorable tide, wind, swell, combo that creates barelling A frames. he rips the shit out of the place by all accounts. when my merry band of groms arrived at the spot the show was over.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 10, 2006 05:34 PM

26th ave

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 05:43 PM

sewers

Posted by: msurfer at April 10, 2006 05:47 PM

your mama's

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 05:55 PM

http://www3.youtube.com/watch?v=E95McWB4tmQ&search=ali%20g

Posted by: if you havent seen it at April 10, 2006 05:58 PM

Andrew,

Unless you have a boat or a helicopter being a traveling man based in Cape Cod is going to get real old, for me at least. My brother lives in Woods hole which is in the swell shadow of Martha's Vineyard pretty much all year but still "on the cape". It takes him at least an hour to get to decent waves year round (more in the summer traffic) and more than an hour to get to Boston or Providence airports. If you decide to live closer to the waves you'll be that much further from the airports/businesses you'll be traveling to. You might want to look carefully at the map and mark out your common destinations...

Posted by: lard hamilton at April 10, 2006 06:12 PM

wow, thnx lard! Any thoughts on the sweetest most realistic and possible sitch that I should consider? Mucho appreciated. Maine is moving up in que at the moment....thnx again

Posted by: andrew at April 10, 2006 06:30 PM

this pretty much sums it up. all of it.

http://www.craigslist.org/about/best/sfo/15643265.html

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 06:30 PM

I guess that would explain "farm-house with an acre near the sea for $1700"....still,quite fetching.

Posted by: andrew at April 10, 2006 06:32 PM

when I look at that map I see NJ....not too fetching but then again,
I'm a SC native and Ca is all I know....I have no idea what it's really like in NJ. Can I score a free-standing house in a setting that's not so brutally urban as here,make friends and build a new life with surfing still a major player for me? I'm so lost.....

Posted by: andrew at April 10, 2006 06:39 PM

Sorry, I don't know much else about NE except that I was amazed at how long it took to get anywhere when I was visiting...

Posted by: lard hamilton at April 10, 2006 06:41 PM

Ward, don't you think you're being a little hard on the Eaver?


Posted by: meat cleaver at April 10, 2006 08:20 PM

I liked esus better, but nice effort.

my sister lived in providence ri for a while, i visited a few times, seemed like a pretty chill place, relatively cheap rent, not too far from some spots, entertaining local politicians, cool old houses etc

Posted by: fergus at April 10, 2006 08:53 PM

thats a big fucking bunny

Posted by: Brian at April 10, 2006 09:56 PM

NJ has tons of waves that are WAY better than O.B. will ever get. When NJ is on, it is comparable to Baja in the winter.

I have yet to still pull into a full on gaping barrel at O.B. with me at the bottom of the wave. I have pulled into many a Jersey barrels fucking out in the FLATS. O.B. is a shit wave most of the year, and decent like 2-3 months at most. I say, go out to Jersey and fuck some of those Italian mafia bitches for me and get some sweet barrels. My dick is being hunted by some crazy Gambino right now.

Posted by: at April 10, 2006 11:23 PM

I forgot to sign the above

Posted by: mod ken at April 11, 2006 12:00 AM

Posted by: jersey barrels at April 11, 2006 12:05 AM

Posted by: Rohypnol (hippy) ken's girl at April 11, 2006 12:25 AM
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