E's Surf Report

FIRST!

dude. that sux! you're like the last person to talk shit about someone.

waves were garbage this morning. thought there might be a little window but alas, no dice.

Regarding surfing in Colombia. I was in Cartagena in December. THere were some spots just east of there. Not sure about the Pacific side...anyone been? It's quite undeveloped and probably dangerous due to the kidnappings that still occur.

Ben Stiller surf comedy in the works:
http://www.cinematical.com/2006/03/30/stiller-rides-a-big-wave/

Honestly, I've stopped reading most of the comments. I just look for posts by the old-timers to see what they've been up to. Sorry to hear about you getting fragged, e. You should turn this into a register to play site.

gotta get to that portocillo place
only a matter of time till Stiller kooks into the surf scene
dude owns super fine crib on a prominent point with one of the best surf breaks on the north shore of kauai about two hundred feet directly below his back lanai

The shot with the space age / Jetsons style building is in Niteroi city, on the opposite side of Guanabara bay, Rio de Janeiro. It was designed by Oscar Niemeyer, the most famous architech of Brazil. It has super beautiful art in the museum - like New York City quality objects and presentation.

I went to that museum one day on a date with this chick, only to see an awesome wave breaking down below. The strange thing was, due to the angle of the land, you couldn't see the ocean, only the bay, so it looked as if they were surfing in a small lake. Incredible weather, art & culture, hot women, point break below, uh...why am I here in rainy San Francisco again???

Isn't that a pic of Santa the other 364 days of the year?

Corrollary to If you can't post anything nice, don't post anything at all:

If you don't read something nice, don't even let it register.

One negative post can elicit so many more negative reactions, or it can just wither away as the rest of the discussion rages on.

Compare my first sentence with some rant about how Kaiser is cool and only a so and so would post such an inflamatory picture, and you see how it gets out of control.

Ignorance is Bliss.

Some perspective, and to his defense -- e is not an enemy to hunt down and attack for any of this.

Let's please NOT just go find the most convenient scapegoat and kick his ass. You really wouldn't feel much better, or truly change anything, anyway. Plus it adds up to a lot of legal headaches for everyone. Plus you might get shot or jailed just for trying it. Some elements of our scene would just assume slip into a frustrated, directionless desire for barbarism and the shallow comforts of some ganglike mentality. For fuck's sake, rise above it.

if you can look at that photo for more than 5 seconds you are gross. euuu.

That is an old pic actually. My wife popped that zit in my 3rd roll last week.

Oh, not good:

http://www.cnn.com/2006/US/03/30/hi.sewage.spill.ap/index.html

Price of Hawaiian overdevelopment?

i just got my first legit buckethead disc. holey shit that guy is insane. my question, is Buckethead, Slash from GnR and Velvet Revolver, alter ego?

with so much talk of locals with bad vibes;lets give praise to a true local who never gives nothing but good vibes & aloha im talking about Morey.he has been surfing the beach his whole life and sometimes im a little dismayed to see the lack of respect given to him.

nice one 3to5. Slash came up with a few good riffs in GnR, but, Buckethead shreds circles around Slash imho. Slash is to Linda Mar as Buckethead is to Pipeline.

I'll keep the positive vibe posts going....My garden has a wisteria plant that is about to burst open with a sea of purple splendor, all it needs is one sunny day to make it happen !! This rain will make the hills green well into the summer and wild flowers will abound. Hey who knows, perhaps when the sand settles a sandbar or two will be born!

Wow you people out in frisco seem to talk alot about riding surfboards , maybe I'll move out there and take up the sport, I'm really getting fed up with the smog in the New York City making may rheumatism act up.

E
Hope all is well...I never heard from you on my Linda Mar/Strep/Bacterial Influenza/dirty water trapped in the head story but I thought I'd throw an update to the board.
I just saw a great specialist off Stonestown named Robert Johnson. He sees and treats alot of surfers and we spent a good hour talking about it, doing tests and looking at my ears. His opinion is that it is impossible to get strep or infulenza from polluted water because there's a membrane that protects the canal. Getting ear infections is an entirely different thing and since I don't get ear infections he cautioned against surgery even though I have 97% and 80% closure. He was very miffed that 1)I was advised to go ahead with surgery at the Palo Alto Ear Institute even though my hearing is perfect and I don't have any history of ear infections after 30 years of solid surfing 2)I was advised to go ahead with the surgery even though the surgeon didn't actually look into my ears (it was his assistant who checked me out) and 3) that the PAEI is charging nearly 14k per ear.
Sometimes I think that our culture is so alarmist that it's hard to see through it all and really understand what's going on. Lesson: always seek a 2nd opinion, and it's most likely best to forgo ear surgery unless you're having chronic infections and experiencing hearing loss.
I'm religious on plugs and hood from now on! Shout to all the positive readers out there. Surfing is magic. Compassion to the haters and those stuck on Testosterone Island. They need healing.....peace

Introverted, socially inhibited
Extroverted, socially participative
ANXIETY Low anxiety, unperturbed Easily worried and generally tense
WILL Open minded, receptive to ideas Resolute and determined
INDEPENDENCE Accommodating and selfless Independent and persuasive
SELF CONTROL Free-thinking and impulsive Structured and inhibited

I think you got an eff in analogies there, anon; it should be, Slash is to Buckethead what Linda Mar is to Pipeline.

Finally, e, you're addressing the bad vibes. I'm with Steve on this one. I've skipped most of the messages and onto the pics and surf session reports.

I just got the Tzadik released "Kaleidoscalp" which in the liner notes indicate "Buckethead is a veteran of GnR." who else could it be, Izzy?

right on.

Andrew. thanks for the post and sorrow i haven't responded. A few others wrote to me about that too and i've been super lame slackoid about getting it together. will soon.

peace in the middle east.

Surfed OB on Sunday - wiped out turning off the bottom as the wall in front of me shut down. There was a window Sunday between the early morning tidal peak, and the afternoon storm winds. But in over the course of that window, the inside bowls were really funky, with dredgy, warbly boils underneath. Anyway, in the ensuing whitewater roll under, my board got tangled underneath me and the fins bashed me on the side of the shin. Nothing major, didn't rip my wetsuit, but it did break my skin through the layer of neoprene, just from the blunt force.

I noticed on my way to the water that morning that the beach was posted - indicating infectious levels of fecal coloform or some shit like that. So today is thursday, and my relatively minor shin bruise and scab has become redder, and more swollen, and itchier, and I'm afraid that Mr. Andrew's Linda Mar phegm goblen may have taken root in my leg.

Fact is, superGnar water quality is gnaxt no matter where you encounter it.

My buddy Du-Dong grew up in National city, and used to surf Imperial beach. Gnastiest thing he ever saw was a dead dog floating in the line-up.

what up out there folks?

i have been busier than a one legged man
in an ass kickin' contest the past few weeks...
so i been droppin by seeing if anyone is doing
any surfing and getting back to the tasks at hand.
sorta stoked this is the wettest march EVER. been
making work easier.

now that the plate is clear or at least for a bit...
i wish the sun would come out and there could be
glassiness.

anyone goin' to the volcom flick tonite?
hockey haven for pre-flick beverages?

e—very sorry to hear that you are being
harassed. anonymous posts are so lame.
makes it easy to understand why klansmen wore hoods.
not too different when you think about it.

be well, have fun and maybe by april there
will be some surfy surf. anyone seen the satellite
shot of the pacific? big ol' low pressures from cali to
japan all for us.

sorry for the long post.

cheers.

And probably the gnarliest thing that ever happened to me was full cover back rash after paddling in at through the lagoon overflow at Surfriderzzz beach in Malibu. It was after some rains, and the San fernando effluent was ripping through the concrete channels of Malibu canyon, and pouring out of the lagoon into the water. As I paddled across a 20 yard swath of oily, cigarette butt littered, 6-pack plastic thingy, gnar gnar - I just knew it wasn't healthy. But over the following couple of days, as my back broke out in red bumps, and my lungs filled with crackly mucus balls, I was totally disgusted with LA water quality.

I'm more worried about the oil slick coming off that Bairds beaked whale they buried a couple of years ago.

the sun will shine and the waves will come - patience and peace - I think we are going to have a spectacular May. I was reading about all the sewage spills on Oahu - yikes -

Anyone having trouble with Craigs List? Seems like their site is experiencing some difficulty?

I need a job, a used surf board, a hooker, a girlfriend, apartment and a car.

I'm lost without that site. Is it working?

polio pond baby.

tell me more about this volcom flick? at balboa? i like beer.

andrew, thanks for the post.

buckethead did play with GNR briefly a few years ago. btw, buckethead is like 6'5 or so.

Could someone please re-post the link to Ian's travel blog? It's good mind-wandering on a thursday afternoon and I lost the link when my hard drive was corrupted.

Volcom's CREEPY FINGERS, a Veeco Surf Film, Shows on Thursday, March 30, 2006 at 7:15 and 9:15 PM in San Francisco, CA

Presented by Aqua Surf Shop & Wavefest

Watch as Creepy Fingers winds its way through a cinematic foray of beauty, silliness, seriousness and the general debris of human existence. What are creepy fingers? Find out as you witness the antics of Bruce Irons, Ozzie Wright, Dean Morrison, Gavin Beschen, Bol, Mike Morrissey, Nate Tyler, Jay Quinn, Alex Gray, Kilian Garland, Dusty Payne, Aron Gieger, Super Grom Andrew Doheney and more.

More info on the movie:
http://www.volcom.com/news/article.asp?articleID=1062.

Location:
Balboa Theatre
The Balboa Theater is on Balboa and 37th Ave. in San Francisco.
http://www.balboamovies.com

Price:
$8 at the door

thanks

on a small day at OB my board riquocheted off the bottom and the fin got me in the shin - I knew I broke skin even though my wetsuit was fine, I could see the lump of skin on my shin and then the blood coming down through the bottom of my wetsuit _ I drove myself home and a friend took me to the emergency just cause it was such a gash - the doctors flushed it real good with saline and stitched it up. I was advised to stay out of the water until it healed (at least 10 days). Stitching the shin is no easy task but I was glad I got it flushed with a good cleaning - keep it clean and dry and out of the water until it heals - I did go in the water when it was healing and just used anitbacterial soap like LEVER/DIAL and scrubbed it every time. After surfing this past weekend I would wash once I got home as well - the water quality seems so trashed - it can only get better

word of the day: riquocheted
i dig it

I like the way that Sactomex's girls have a more "attainable" look about them than say what Kaiser posts.

Wait... Is that too negative?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

And here is my surf report:

After some vacillation, I opted to pack for the morning, so that I had the option, if everything else went right, to go for a surf. Set the alarm for 4:45, then turned it off (since I always wake up 5 minutes before the alarm). Sure enough, I woke up just before 5, then opted to sleep in. At 6, my 3 year old wakes up complaining of being "really sad", and Wifey explains that she hasn't slept since 1 AM, so could I set up the girl with Milk, etc?

I opt out of a surf and walk the dog, make tea for Wife, Milk for the girl, feed and Pill the Cat.

On the Way to work, I check the spot I had planned to go and watch for 15 minutes. Three guys within spitting distance and one other on the next section, and I see a couple short lame rides. One three wave set comes, the oddball goes on the first, and the three all go for the second leaving the third for me in my mindsurf. That wave sections so I see that I made the right decision.

I scored by stretching in a beautiful location, instead of paddling about and not surfing the few that came through.

Sometimes you score when you don't.

e, the dawn patrol from Lindy are with you all the way, and you can't miss us, we're the ones glowing green :-)

Funkiest water ever: Playa Hermosa in Lima, Peru.
Floating turds, condoms, syringes, and two - count 'em - two dead puppies. Got grossed out and bailed, I was very nervous , since it was the first day of a long South American trip.

Hermosa in Lima can be pretty gnarly, but I frequent there, and usually do not experience the horrible conditions you describe. Being close to a rather empoverished city with more than 8,380,300 people can have that effect though.

Believe it or not, the worst water quality I've experienced was at Kuta beach. Couldn't paddle without pulling a plastic sack off my arm. Always wondered what would happen if coming up from a duckdive, that plastic bag had covered my head.

Gnarly..

Liking the disposition of the posts today. Hope it keeps up.

Also did the drive and saw 1 place where 5 is a crowd.

Continued to drive just past devils slide and saw another spot that was closed out. Then kept driving south and saw another place where the water did not look too good,but the lefts were peeling nicely.

Nobody was around, I never paddled this spot before and I wimped out. Now I am sitting in cube-land feeling like a pussy.

Sometimes you don't score when you could have.

No more posts?

no. the internet is over. move along.

E, that mean local sounds like he has huge juevos. where can I find him? I'd like to go a few rounds with him. believe me, i think I can take him,,,, all of him.... see you again soon? -K

attainable?

you mean detainable?

the best days for that ass have waned

I'd hit it

that looks like Dorian's ass

ok, i wiki'd "buckethead" and am now informed. thank you for your paitence.

don't get it mofo, why even bother?

Speaking of getting skegged by fins; once I was surfing Pleasure on a long board, little close out flipped board over and I sat down on fin- got skegged in the bum-hole! No gash but a mean bruise. It was embarrasing to bring the wetsuit in to get the hole in the ass fixed.

I had a similar day at Kuta last year. Rained hard overnight but I did the dawn patrol anyway before my flight out. Murky, nasty water with plastic bags, bottles, everything. Thought I got away clean until two days later in the middle of the HK airport. Transpacific flights are no fun for anyone when you've got serious gastrointestinal problems.

Laniakea after a heavy rain. E coli chocolate brown cow shit water, even the Hawaiins don't go out. But you see a few empty waves and start weighing the odds of risk and return. Oh, to get a few waves to yourself.

Much better posts today. Keep the good vibe.

back in the day. single fins. shallow reef right point at the south end of k-55 beach. close-out on the reef. friend to hospital. 6 inch rectum prenetration. nasty wound.

but the fin box held. not a crack. back when boards were built right. 8 oz glass top and bottom. fin had a really nice long rake too, used to covet it. until the accident.

woiaaahahhhaw

This March is making look forward to Summer.

not to rub it in but i live in a small town on the Oregon coast and we've been having the greatest march ever. Keep these lows and south winds coming! hell yeah!

Very nice I think I will make daily contributions to this wonderful blog again. I found an old cat on the road and took it to the vet, it couldnt move its legs. I was going to adopt it if nobody claimed it. It had no ID. We put up flyers in the neighborhood where we found it and waited for a call. Sure enough a 90 y/o lady said it was her cat, and it was over 20 years old!!! She's going to pick it up. I'm so happy!!
ps- will that good deed earn me some karma and maybe get me a wave or 2? I need surf.

karmic realignment coming soon to you antman.

My worst fin gash was at Pathetica. Pulling my board back to me it came too fast so I put up my foot to block and the outside of my pied intersected the base of the back of the fin.

DO NOT VISIT the Coastside Summit hospital unless your life depends on it.

WAY expensive for 6 stitches.

Robme sliced his nutsack open at Lindy.

His wife is a nurse and stitched him back up.

i shit you not.

Last Sunday, before my shin fin incident, my brother-in-law was paddling out behind me. Lost track of him, and figured he was on the other side of the huge rip I was next to. I wasn't going to paddle through the rip to see if he was over there. Turns out, he took a rail to the eye on the paddle out, and paddled in with a huge shiner. What a bunch of kooks we were that day.

is it really hard out there, for a pimp?

new fins typically are so sharp nowadays, I have to sand them down a little (leading and trailing edges) before the first sesh; they could friggen cut a ripe tomato I swear

Dull fins slow me way down...

it sure is

You gots to chill

Coastside Hospital in HMB?

- Definitely to be avoided. Took the side of a board in the head, busted my eardrum @ a surf spot now only referred to as "Eardrums".

Basically, you walk into that joint, roll past a bunch of peeps confined to wheelchairs, back to the ER area. The entire time you are there you have a feeling you are gonna get a shot of something to "dull the pain" and in reality you are likely to join the wheelchair crew for the rest of your time on the planet.

Its a bit of an eery place for sure. Fucking doc was weird too.

Long live Eardrums!

"Smallest day all winter...." - claim by a man @ the Lane that very same day!

many moons ago, on a sweet grinding hurricane left, i took a pounding that pushed a sharp fin to that soft part right on the bottom middle of the foot. 12 stitches later, i hobbled out of the hospital with a pair of crutches. the guilty fin was immediately sanded down. the good news is that the non-payment of that emergency room visit came off my credit report a couple years ago! and just last year a wonderful credit card establishment finally granted me my first card!! such joy.

fins to the nuts.....frightening.

I took a winged keel fin in the back, it made a Y gash in my wetsuit and little Y cut and bruise on my back. i sacraficed that devil board soon after.

ain't that sumthin' that all of the mexicans want citizenship and rights yet they wave only mexican flags at their rallies???

racism sucks

especially from La Raza!

Why can't you be proud of your country yet want to go elsewhere?

I don't see why people want to come to this country anyway. People work all the time to buy more shit and are miserable.

People down south have less, need less, lives are more simple and are generally happier.

Kaiser that checkered board is rad but it would give me a headache to look down at all the time.

Please tell me that checkered board is a cloth or paper inlay. Can you imagine the taping job if it's not?

Took a fin to my earlobe during a flyaway kickout at Rockaway in 1997, bloody mess and a fun parking lot attraction/distraction. Everyone loves blood streaming down a dude's neck as he comes out of the water. Good times...sharp fins!

one time a shark bit my arm off

maybe we can all wear our 'handle' names on hello stickers tonight at the surf film. that way we can all get to know one another. what do you think fellas?

wow i would not want my nut-sac to get ripped open.

Yawn,
Skip

http://www.robertvalley.com/swerve.html

Local animation master, Robert Valley.

i would do the whole link code thing but baah, check it out if you like good stuff.

some good advise I wish I had learned years ago:

- when you eat it don't break the surface til you feel a constant pull on your leash. then you know your board is far away in most instances.

-especially in barrel wipeouts, cover each eye with a palm, not fingers- fins and noses will separate your fingers and nail your eye

and holy scrotums robme! sounds embarassing, and painful..

Nice work "Mexifornia" you ignorant slobbering drool.
GAWD.

Hey E,

If your niceness buddies are getting pissed off at negative posters and negative posters are getting pissed off because of your site, aren't you creating alot of conflict and maybe this site should end?

You almost ended it last week and I thought that was a pretty good idea. I think your writing is cool and the message board thingy is good reading, but local surf scenes and blatent exploitation of said scenes isn't good. Never has been and it looks like it never will be.

Not trying to be negative or anything, just trying to give a different perspective which you may not have thought about.

yeah, but if he shuts it down what will become of all of the cube dogs? how will they pass their days. that would be a public dis-service

Shut it down!
I will be fine, I will still surf more then most of y'all!
Cube can't hold me down like society holds you down

Shut it down before things get seriously ugly. And that inculdes you Scarpo. We know who you are and what you are. Call it a BEANER STAND OFF.

E, maybe you will have to set up some kind of filter to filter out bad vibes and bad language? As far a fin damage, some kook ditched his board in front of me one time at bl***s and I ended up w/13 stitches in the back!!

someone just got off of work!

ok, injury war story. Gashed my shin the first day over the pass hiking in the Sierras. Doctor rambo'd it with a fish hook and fly leader and carried on. Seemed to heal up okay. About three weeks later out at OB, go over the falls and the fin clocks me right on the wound. I knew that puppy was ripped. Limp in, sure enough opened to the bone. Worst part was the doc in the ER tidying up the jagged edges and yanking the cut closed again. Said a deep wound you need to do internal sutures. Shins are a bad place to get cut. Hey, April usually opens up some surf before it blows shut. Can't be worse than March.

don't shut it down, just shut down the morons.

Yeah.

Start by getting rid of the claimer namer kook MSG.

that enough for the day boys get some rest and come back later when you have good things to say

Brown shirts guy sucks poop.

no kidding, these mexican guys riot to be in america, then burn the american flag and raise the meki flag. gimme a break. we pay their taxes for them.

i say round up all the rioters, as they must not have jobs, send them to iraq to earn their citizenship.

THIS IS BULLSHIT!! SOME FUCKING GUERO STOLE MY CARD. BITCH, I KICK YOUR ASS BITCH. VIVA LA RAZA, JOTOS!!

that enough for the day boys get some rest and come back later when you have good things to say

Unfortunate

You uneducated, untravelled rednecks are bringing me down.
Go back to Kansas, leave Mother Ocean for the travelling tribe.

VIVA HAWAII!

Sunny spring morning..........
Hey 3 to 5, Williams or McLaren? - don't have an opinion, its not really my thing. How about some questions that are much more fundamental to life, the universe and everything, such as:
Hendrix or Zappa?
Scotch or Irish (whisky that is)?
Lopez or the Wounded Gull?
Wild Bill Hickock or Sitting Bull?

Hendrix
Tequilla
Both
Neither
Time for afternoon tea or pint?

racist retards
damn I should hav surfd
good Sean Penn article in nyer
pretty down to earth considering he grew up on the 'bu and yes, he surfs
that guy has scored some serious tail in his day.

Mike Furir Mike 977