« whale bones | Main | a few »

Progression

The learning process.
The long, slow, determined road to improvement.
You begin a discipline with little knowledge of it's inner workings.
Your muscle-memory is a blank slate.
At first you're intrigued by some aspect of a pursuit.
How does that radio work?
How do they make that music?
How does the market react to sales of gold in Kenya?
How do they ride those waves like that?
Poetry is fun to read, how do you create it?

With curiosity whet, you begin to explore that activity.
Read about it, do it, think about it, do it, watch it, do it.
Maybe you receive some instruction.
At first you're just atrocious.
Horrible.
Can't flow two chords together, two turns together, two functions together.
Maybe you have a natural inclination.
Maybe not.
But you love doing it.
Doesn't matter that you suck.
You're fascinated and swept up.
Interest turns to passion and soon you're hooked.
Focused, passionate repetition.
Trial and error.
Refinement.
Taking chances.
Discovering your ceiling.
Mental exploration of possibilities that are way beyond your ability.
A student of the game/task/activity.
You begin to notice a slight improvement.
After months and months of immersion.
You're a little more fluid, relaxed, skilled.
just a little.
Still humbled all the time.
Still a kook.
But... on the path.
Now you put the ax to the grindstone.
Practice, practice, practice.
Not resting on the small skills you've developed.
Constantly pushing above and beyond your comfort level.
Always pushing.
Seeking.
Searching.
Prodding.
Falling.
Lifting.
Striving.
After a few years the noticeable progression slows.
You hit a huge wall.
The same approach to practice and improvement loses effectiveness.
You're stuck.
But you keep pushing.
Switching things around.
Shorten your stance.
Take a new class.
Stop playing with a pick.
Switch it up.
And slowly, over time, the progression picks up again.
New skills are added.
A shifted, enlarged perspective.
New avenues for refined muscle memory.
But always you're humbled by the greats.
By the naturals.
By the ridiculously talented and skilled.
Enthralled and uplifted by their mastery.
With time and effort, a reverence toward the pursuit is cultivated.
You love skating/acting/programming/love-making/embroidering/painting/whatever.
You begin to understand its depth, its wonder, its life.
The more you appreciate its glory, the more you can see the glory in many avenues of life.
Those pro scrabble players are maestros! good on em.
That theoretical physics wiz is in so deep!
That master sushi chef down the street. years of training and knowledge. awesome.
Commitment.
Love.
Sacrifice.
Determination.
Wonderment.

niceness

first

Posted by: toad at November 15, 2005 10:20 AM

就床ラッパ

Posted by: at November 15, 2005 10:20 AM

I'll take that wave in the second pic!!!

Can anyone explain why the current was amping south during DP, despite the incoming tide? [ at least where I was ] Today also set a record: most ridiculously difficult paddle out compared to size and gentleness of waves. Near 2 hr paddle marathon. It wasn't even surfing. For gods' sake! Why?! Agh.

Chalking up today to Kook Karma

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 15, 2005 10:23 AM

we got sucked north sharkbait!?
weird.

tons of duckdiving! argh!!

lerm scored a nice one.

Posted by: e at November 15, 2005 10:25 AM

nice one e

Posted by: bagel at November 15, 2005 10:27 AM

Watched the moonset this AM from the right just north of docks.......longboard paradise!

Posted by: Dr Dawn at November 15, 2005 10:30 AM

Full moon = full currents.

Posted by: Dennis at November 15, 2005 10:35 AM

appreciate the lead-in this morning e -- fiona is 3 weeks old today and my wife is working hard to fine-tune the breastfeeding skills - both hers and the little one's). there is more fine motor skill coordination & timing involved than either of us realized. has reminded me of my own experiences with trying to learn to play guitar, or hitting a golf ball...but of course on a wholly different level!

in other news, i think i might be making my return to the water this afternoon ...

Posted by: loon at November 15, 2005 10:37 AM

go loon!

Posted by: at November 15, 2005 10:44 AM

loon - have you not made it out since the birth? argg! i hope that's not my future. i'm not asking for kaiseresque liberal surf permissions, but i need to get in the water at least once or twice a week.

i drifted fairly hard south at the north end. made no f-n since. definitely not the greatest dp conditions (not the worst either). i am jealous of the mid-day low tide punks. could be pretty.

nice words today, e.

Posted by: steamwand at November 15, 2005 10:49 AM

yeah, I second that.

Nice words today,e.

Posted by: picky prowler at November 15, 2005 10:53 AM

steamwand -- i could have gotten out, just opted not to - partly cuz conditions haven't been that enticing when i had time, also because i'm spending time with the renovations to our house, which finally are moving along very well... move-in likely by xmas...

and i think you said that this will be baby # 2 or 3 for her right? -- if so you'll probably have more leeway cuz of that.

Posted by: loon at November 15, 2005 10:57 AM

So im sick and have a legit excuse to bail work.

There is a chance that these offshores will stay around till low tide and there will be a slight chance of riding ridables.

Do I bail and go surf knowing I will probably just get more sick?

Posted by: The Surfers Lament at November 15, 2005 10:59 AM

Go surfing.
That's why all the kids say,"siiiiick."

Posted by: MxRxHx at November 15, 2005 11:02 AM

Good point.

Posted by: TSL at November 15, 2005 11:13 AM

Loon,

I remember when our first daughter was born and she was colicky and wouldn't/couldn't nurse. It was a very frustrating time for the wife/baby. I had to do a lot of coaching/cheerleading for Mom and a lot of foot tickling for baby (to keep her awake) until they finally got the hang of the nursing thing. Props to all moms who make the effort to breast-feed.

Posted by: steve at November 15, 2005 11:21 AM

nah, it's our first baby. i just started to really be able to feel him. he's doing vert off the lips in there. crazy! i'm so nervous. just gotta keep surfing and skating, even though i suck at both. anyone know if they have lights at bordertown? i doubt it.

Posted by: steamwand at November 15, 2005 11:21 AM

Headbutt to the upper forehead of the Chucky and an imbedded tooth therein. The guy has rabies and a host of other diseases and rather obvious severe mental abnormalities.

Skeletor used his plastic prosthetic claw to scrape and suckerpunch the guy for accidently on purpose running his sorry ass over - too bad - you lose.

Like the crab-picker before you the hex worked and you upset the sunday surfing carnival.
Mind your p's and q's ya never know what nut case is behind the mask.

Posted by: Bloody Waters at November 15, 2005 11:28 AM

This weekend Tony Hawk is going to be at the Scotts Valley Skatepark to do a demo to raise money for the Eric Costello Memorial Fund. The fund is solely for the benefit of Taylor Costello (Eric's 14 year old son). Don Costello (Eric's father) is the trustee of the fund to ensure the money is dealt with properly. The fundraiser will be on Sunday, Nov. 20th from 12pm-3pm. From noon to 1pm there will be a "meet and greet" for Erics family, close friends and media. From 1pm-2pm Tony and friends will be putting on a demo as well as some pros from NHS brands. From 2pm-3pm we will be announcing the raffle winners with the grand prize being the skateboard Tony Hawk uses for the demo. Scotts Valley Market will be BBQing and selling food and they will be donating all profits to the fund. DJ Ray Stevens is going to DJ the event so that guarantees great music!

Posted by: traut at November 15, 2005 11:41 AM

I'll need to work on my backhand for this one.

niceness

Posted by: steve at November 15, 2005 11:43 AM

Full on carousel effect this morning is the answer. The inside was moving south, outside moving north. Very picturesque outside as the sunrise peaking over the Fleishacker offices coincided with the start of slight offshores. Pretty decent size outside but kinda soft. Crazy Hawaiian chick gave me the shaka as I got pounded by the blue door sandbar. Just another OB day.

Posted by: kdalle at November 15, 2005 11:57 AM

Last night was fun!

Car theft story:


My friend Terry (Maroon VW van, surfboard always on top tied down with a leash, surfs like a spazz and talks fast) was parked at Lawton a couple of weeks back. He and my another guy Sean were parked and had tea with the pop top up, suited up. They went out surfing for a couple of hours and when they got back the van was driving down the GH with the top still up. Terry chased it, lost sight of it and later found it in the park near the windmill, nothing was taken. The next day Sean went out and his bud had his window broken.
I no longer carry my wallet when I park and surf...

Posted by: Mexi at November 15, 2005 11:58 AM

steve, nice pic I can almost smell the place..

Posted by: the janitor at November 15, 2005 12:00 PM

i actually spent some time at steve's photo.
Caught some memorable waves.

Posted by: e at November 15, 2005 12:02 PM

Nice to see you guys. I'm here.

Posted by: Howling offshores at November 15, 2005 12:34 PM

Hey Howling, thanks for showing up at Ram Adnil mid-morning for the high tide. Friendly conditions for that spot, and not too many people out. Some neat, steeep drops, a couple of which didn't munch me.

Posted by: kloo at November 15, 2005 12:41 PM

Man, it's nice and warm up in here. Is it just me, or is this weather unusual for this time of the year? I can see this in Oct., but mid Nov?? This is so nice.

Posted by: at November 15, 2005 12:50 PM

lets hope this fall is a late bloomer..

and ya e, i meant nice words, not nice on getting pulled north instead of south..

Posted by: bagel at November 15, 2005 12:52 PM

...one of your bests today, E -

keep pimpin'

Posted by: EG Pimp at November 15, 2005 12:55 PM

I was out at the Lane watching from the cliffs Saturday. It was hard to judge size but it looked solidly 2x. Was there a contest going on in the afternoon? Didn't seem like that but only 6 people out at the peak. The left was working best as the right was mushing out quickly (even though the drop seemed steeper). Amazing sunset and glowing moon over the huge waves, wow.

Posted by: Nate at November 15, 2005 01:02 PM

I haven't been to the spot in the pic. Maybe Art and I can arrange to hit together. E, how did you enjoy your stay there?

Posted by: steve at November 15, 2005 01:16 PM

51 feels like 15 today
leaving now to Everclear,Metallica,Rolling Stones
almost as good as empty clean barrells
any one else here been/going to the show?

Posted by: toneman at November 15, 2005 01:18 PM

that show is right across the street from my work, might just hang out at the office and open up the windows tonight

nice seeing ya this weekend e, didn't recognize you at first with the haircut

Posted by: bbr at November 15, 2005 01:23 PM

thanks for the compliments heads. just riffin' on shit.

and don't worry about my ego Savage Nation - i will always know that i'm a kook tranny loser.

i suck!

Posted by: e at November 15, 2005 01:44 PM

oh yeah BBR.. did you hear Jake and i yelling at you from the cliff? you two were pulling into fucking loony pits of craziness!! holy shit! cheers to you bbr. that was an awesome show! much better than the contest around the point. you guys were fucking charging chargeable charge cards! for real!

Posted by: e at November 15, 2005 01:46 PM

haha that was mostly my friend sunny charging the big ones... that was some of the heaviest shorebreak i'd surfed in a long time, i was sketching out...

Posted by: bbr at November 15, 2005 02:05 PM

What I wouldn't do for a few rounds at Hobson's and a 1 AM martini at the Brazen. Colonel here with your bi-annual Orange County surf report. It's CROWDED, the water is DIRTY, but there's a smokin' hot chick with a tramp stamp and a mini-skirt who wants to sell me meth. Oh, and we borrowed some of your fog today, too. So, for today anyway, we can't see the crowds, can't tell what color the water is, and that meth freak with the tramp stamp looks a bit like the Playmate of the Year (from here anyway). Big up to Christian, Bricca, Web, Croc, Beach, Seelbach, Bourke, and the rest of the SLOOOOW B chargers. Like Otis told the Beatles, "You've got my respect." In an off-topic, rambling aside, the Colonel says, "Re-sign Eyre, trade Latroy, buy Winn a house in Atherton, tell Feliz to step it up, and ship Bonds off to the fucking Yankees." Go Giants.

Posted by: The Colonel at November 15, 2005 02:15 PM

Colonel, you forgot to start with "E, thanks for the vine" and "War Niceness"

Posted by: Jim Rome at November 15, 2005 02:30 PM

I surfed this morning and had fun.
I did a fun cutback on the end of a down the line zipper. I felt like a kooky occy.
I dropped in late backside and highlined it.
Got clobbered on the way out.

I heard a siren go off and it freaked me out so bad I botched an overhead setty,could not see, and pulled back like an ass.

I feel ashamed. I need to redeam myself now back at the beach.

I saw all my friends when I got out getting ready to go surf. Friends that surf way better then me.

Posted by: lamentation of the women at November 15, 2005 02:33 PM

Colonel, nice post!

RACK 'EM!

Current was going south for me this morning. I am pretty sure I got lapped by Kdalle on his giganto surfboard. Rarely do I confuse the sight with any other. Hope the outside was better then the inside. Tide was indeed too high as I floated my craft at one of the only locales on the beach where the backwash actually has an effect on the approaching waves.

There is always tomorrow. Or even later today...

Now, how about some #6:

Posted by: Kaiser at November 15, 2005 02:42 PM

Coming to the end of a brief drydock period: injury, work, school. I'll swim tonight, extra yoga for a couple of days and then plan to get back in the lineup by Friday. So get it while the offshores last. I'm sure to spoil the fun all too soon.

Posted by: Jimmie at November 15, 2005 02:50 PM

hey Colonel,

GMC = Gary Michael Cocroft. Nice guy and good surfer.
We used to say/think his boards rode like....Trucks.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 15, 2005 03:08 PM

"100 times better now than this morning"

Not my quote, but one that was told to me about 10 minutes ago.

Posted by: Mr Doof at November 15, 2005 03:12 PM

argghgh!!!!

Posted by: e at November 15, 2005 03:41 PM

What's 100 times total shitte? Well, that's what I saw this morning after driving around for an hour.

Colonel, at ease.

Kaiser, I'll take a dozen number 6s.

3to5setsof7, we're buying a dredge. You in?

EG, Pimp the midwest for us.

Posted by: dano at November 15, 2005 03:42 PM

one over zero equals infinity.

Doof's just trying to keep the crowds down tomorrow morning.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 15, 2005 04:12 PM

After noon got really good. Barrel hunters everywhere. The word was out. All parking lots were packed. Swell is way down. Don't fret... trade winds should stay around for a while plus new swell.


someone's in there

Posted by: Walker at November 15, 2005 04:19 PM

Hey Walker, could you please wait at least 24 hours before posting pics- you just help get the word out more than any surf report ever could. Thanks

Posted by: loc at November 15, 2005 04:23 PM

OK. Sorry if I offended. I know things are touchy around here. There's only about 20 minutes of daylight left anyway, but I understand. Just some happy surfers and beachgoers today.

Posted by: Walker at November 15, 2005 04:28 PM

Post like that really does affect the crowds in this instant access world (and makes us cube dwellers cry). We all love good pics, but a bit a patience until after the swell event is really appreciated! Let's keep some things a secret, at least for a few days.

Posted by: at November 15, 2005 04:33 PM

what walker didn't mention was that those pics were actually from Australia!! yup.. walker is from New South Wales.

i heard it was shitty around here this afternoon. If you're in your cube, don't worry, you didn't miss anything. The wind blew offshore but things just didn't line up.

Posted by: e at November 15, 2005 04:39 PM

What's that dark shadow in the last pic--just ahead of the barrel?

Posted by: sf seal at November 15, 2005 04:44 PM


Today's Lesson: Poo Butt
Tomorrow's Lesson: Which Way Is Up

Posted by: dano at November 15, 2005 04:46 PM

don't be daft - posting pics causes crowds...! what crap. people just get pissed at the thought of other people being out there and having a good time. Post away.

Or maybe we should shut down every single webcam and forcast site around - they cause crowds as well...

Don't listen to them - the vast majority of people dig seeing pics like that...

Posted by: at November 15, 2005 04:48 PM

If you want the bad news: lots of current, not a lot of swell, mushing on the outside, dumping on the inside, lots of closeouts, crowded. Actually shite out there. The worst part is seeing guys who you never see on the 200 horrible days a year come out and rip.

Posted by: Walker at November 15, 2005 04:50 PM

anon, Pigeon Point this morning.

...and speaking of, I think that they are lighting the OEM light bulb in the light house there this Saturday. They only do it once a year. It's pretty cool. Hey, here is a really long and very boring video of it from last year. If you skip to the middle of it, you can see the spokes of the fresnel lens rotating around.

Posted by: dano at November 15, 2005 05:05 PM

Siiiiiiiiiiiiiick!!!

Posted by: Brian at November 15, 2005 05:43 PM

Siiiiiiiiiiiiiick!!!

Posted by: Brian at November 15, 2005 05:43 PM

i wish i had waves like those ones ^ there where I live in NorCal, i just get big ol fatty beachbreak-smash-your-ass closeouts but I DIG IT

Posted by: Brian at November 15, 2005 05:51 PM

nice pics walker

Posted by: Brian at November 15, 2005 05:54 PM

e, why are you covering for walker? Those pix are clearly of OB on Nov 15th. The guy even mentioned in his post (at 4:28 pm PST) that only 20 minutes of daylight were left.

Posted by: at November 15, 2005 07:50 PM

Ducked outta work at 2:30 today. Sure was fun out there until just before sunset. Then it turned to shite. Side currrents I guess. Full moon to the east with setting sun to west. Awesome.

Posted by: Dennis at November 15, 2005 08:11 PM

You little sissies just can't quit your squabling can you. I had no problem with crowds tonight--in spite of the crowds.

Posted by: Dennis at November 15, 2005 08:14 PM

yeah e why'd you give up celebrating the local? crowds a factor at the beach? what a joke, its a pose and nothing more. vague is vogue? please. those pics are damned nice walker, but i bet they inspired at most no surfers to add their kookish or rippng selves to the line up today. and if you say, well they might for the low tide tomorrow, i say the beach is fickle, so who cares? it might be better, it might be shite, nobody can say. the surflines, cams, wind reports and the sf buoy will be far better indicators anyway. jesus fucking christ can't you people get past this and just post pictures of hot women and lie about your sessions? and dammit e, tell us about the surf at kirkham, kelly's, pacheco, noriega, sloat or wherever you drag yourself out. that's why we like this thing. leave the san mateo & n. santa cruz spots out if you must, but fuck, ob can be discussed. the water is cold and heavy and its full of fucking sharks. bitches. what a bunch of whiny little bitches. surfing isn't cool, either, its just fun for some people.

Posted by: peer pressure at November 15, 2005 09:46 PM

4.6 ft & 9 seconds, winds light off shore. get out there tomorrow all you wise customers. if a wave is about to break in front of you when you're paddling, just slide off your board and dive, that's what leashes are for.

Posted by: sf buoy at November 15, 2005 09:51 PM

where da waves at?

Posted by: at November 16, 2005 10:20 AM

Mike, why does your suit look just like a Spitz Bodyboarding Wetsuit(circa 90'-95')?It looks Identical to Spitz from head to toe, even down to the hip grip. Get Original, it took you along time to catch-up and take something to call your own. How creative!Come on Mike, we both know the Truth!

Posted by: at November 17, 2005 10:34 PM
Post a comment

Thanks for signing in, . Now you can comment. (sign out)

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)


Remember me?