wind-addled
opportunity?
A "how bad do you want it" kinda day.
Sloppy topsy curly chunk-o-funk.
Cold and blustery at the beach.
A bit of south in the wind could open things up for certain locations?
-------------
i hope Alain won't mind if i post an email he sent.. along with some killer photos. Alain please email me if you'd like me to remove anything... Alain is the man!
I am sure that the 9 hour drive seemed worth it at this point....even if you did miss the first soild NW swell of fall or so I hear.
Anyways, Ive been a daily viewer of your report for the last couple of years. I always enjoy the sick photos and the fact that you even got the balls to check out fluidzone.com. Some intense shit - images of days youre glad not to be a pro; check out the shark island challenge photos. Yes, Im a sponger but that aside, Im a lover of good surf and Im a lover of ob. I was reading all the feedback/commentary about surfing and fatherhood and the one thing that seemed to repeat itself was the idea of sacrifice. Sacrifices
are heavy things, but sometimes they offer the greatest rewards. I am not going be a father anytime soon or anything but I did just make a painful sacrifice. I left the beach and I left SF.
In June I moved to Holland (not Amsterdam but a shit town called Eindhoven) to go to design school for my masters degree in industrial design - for the next 2 years. Holland is an amazing place for its acceptance and interest in creative design concepts and realization (and of course weed). But one thing they havent been able to design is a way for Holland to get swell or simply decent surf. Shit, if only there was the Hossengor Design Academy. That place is probably going off right now, huh? Portugal probably even more. Coxos on steroids, freaky thought.
Anyways the reason Im writing is to tell you that your daily blog of life at the beach makes me feel like Im going to make it through these next 2 years. I can tell you this much, everyday I think about that beast master (ob) and everyday I relate to your encounters with or around her. I can tell you this much, I will never complain about those onshore summer days ever again. Paddling out in the pacific ocean is the most invigorating and calming daily experience available. Not having that around sucks. Enjoy everyday in SF and at the beach, for those of us who couldnt be there to enjoy it with you. Especially during these epic fall days you guys are having. And keep throwing in the musical facts. Thanks for sharing a piece of your day with the rest of us. If you have ever questioned it, just know that it really affect others.
I also attached some photos for you to check out since I figure you like checking out surf photos. Its from my South Africa collection. If you like them you are free to post them. The pictures of j-bay going absolutely off changed my view of surfing forever. Still to this day I have yet to experience such performance and stoke by single individuals during one day of surfing (and Ive been to the box, north point, st. leu, arica, g-land, honolulu bay). The men in
white completely dominated the home turf. It was awesome. And it didnt hurt that Wardo was still around. I was the kook on the boogie board that day for sure. One of the few times I have wished to buy
the ripping surfer chip at the closest shop.
Theres also a picture of a stencil/mural I did at ob before I left. Kind of leaving my mark about this current decision in my life. Go surf.
First
Posted by: MSG at October 11, 2005 10:06 AMThat mural is sweet. You're a talented dude, Alain.
Posted by: MSG at October 11, 2005 10:14 AMwow- good waves yester...where was everyone?
thanks for not being there!
Posted by: barney at October 11, 2005 10:41 AMlast night was really, really sweet. the past two weeks my post-work suit-up has been in sync with the sunset, so i get the last little sliver just as i'm coming over the dunes at Dead Center. super-fun, super-clean sets showing up, though all i really have to show for it is a swollen ring finger that i busted against my board on a foiled backside drop.
alain: i remember watching the sea at rotterdam, but it was at some indeterminable hour and i was out of it. remember how cheap airfare is in europe: you can be in italy, england, spain, wherever for under one hundred bucks roundtrip, easy. you'll survive, and ob will welcome if you come back this way, but in the meantime, take advantage.. the "last-minute deals" are really good there. i could have taken advantage as a borderline-destitute student in germany, but i was too busy in the law books. and i didn't surf back then (what?!). beautiful mural, by the way.
and e, i second alain's comments re this blog. sure, there could be other ob blogs out there, but none would have the timbre of this one. thank you.
Posted by: outearly at October 11, 2005 10:42 AMlove the mural. thanks.
Posted by: J at October 11, 2005 10:46 AMfinally got caught up from the offsite. that mural is SICK alain, nice work!! good words, too. make the most of your experience out there as not many people ever get the opportunity to live in a foreign country for an extended period of time.
Posted by: j at October 11, 2005 10:51 AMbe careful out there barney
Posted by: otf at October 11, 2005 10:51 AMUps to Alain, that mural is realy nice. Looks like the VFW wall, I think SF DPW just buffed the entire stretch so maybe you did your stencil afterwards? Otherwise it is probably gone by now. Either way, good going. Also enjoyed the B&W photos.
This is the only blog for my beloved OB. The character, the flavor, is here.
Posted by: Chiaroscuro at October 11, 2005 10:58 AMa couple weeks ago at the beach i commented on how shitty and shallow all those big tags are along the seawall. if people are gonna paint up public property shouldn't it add some type of value to the environment? imagine that long wall done up with murals like alain's!
Posted by: rza at October 11, 2005 11:03 AMAlain,
I feel for you missing the beach. I know what it's like to go to grad school and be land locked. I did the same thing when I went to Washington DC for 4 years. It was depressing.
My advice to you is to get into another sport while you're there in Eindhoven. Consider field hockey. I used to play (along with antman of this blog) for the national field hockey team. We mostly sucked, but got to go all over the world representing our country. One of the meccas we traveled to often for hockey was Holland.
Unlike the here in the U.S., hockey in the Netherlands is not just a women's sport - though you will be very, very happy it is a women's sport there too. People play in club teams, not always associated with the university, so you might have to ask around to find out how to join the local club. Here's a link to the main club in Eindhoven:
http://www.hceindhoven.nl/
It's a social sport in addition to an olympic one, so you don't have to good to play. There are drinking teams that you can join. And you can watch the men's first division games with all your new friends once you've joined the club.
It's a great way to meet real Dutch people. *Everybody* in holland plays hockey. I have many fond memories of playing a game on a cold, rainy evening, followed by entering a warm club house filled, absolutely filled with incredibly hot dutch women who would buy me a beer and tell me how well I played. Dude, you will soon forget about OB! So check it out. Antman and I often lament not living in Holland, or Spain or Argentina, where there is competitive/social hockey. It's another sport, like surfing, where all you seem to meet are cool people. I envy you. Good luck with your studies, and start learning dutch!
Posted by: surfseeker7 at October 11, 2005 11:05 AMfun arvo last night at popular bay area beach break. nice waves, good weather, no current!, not too crowded. good times for sure. but looks like its not gonna last?
Posted by: vons at October 11, 2005 11:06 AMfrom allaboutsurf.com
Posted by: at October 11, 2005 11:21 AM
Posted by: at October 11, 2005 11:23 AMAlain - Ive been to Eindhoven. Very flat with lots of crops. At least they have a healthy bike scene. Pls post pics of your travels for us cubies!! Thanks for the pics you already posted.
Posted by: traut at October 11, 2005 11:25 AMHow do you folks deal w/the blinding glare during arvo sessions? Felt completely off base and disoriented last time I went. Mistiming and misjudging everything...way more than usual. I know, I know...secret information..must be earned..woooo...
props to Alain. Also props to e for this blog, it's kept me relatively saner when I've been out of commission for months at a time!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 11, 2005 11:44 AMIf it makes you feel any better Alain this past spring/summer was one of the most consistantly foggy onshore summers of my recent memory and industrial design school in another sountry sounds dope. 2 years will fly by. Try to make out with some cute dutch girls. Awesome mural too and insane photos! thats some of the biggest j bay ive seen. and that peak with the fisherman, nice.
in other news, why did i think it would be a better idea to go to the apple store to try to get a new i pod that i knew they wouldnt replace instead of checking the waves last night? these are the days of our lives.
Posted by: bagel at October 11, 2005 11:49 AMAlain, hit amstey and hit it hard:
Barneys for breakfast
Tweede Kamer for lunch
Bier Haus for apres-lunch
Rookies for beers and buds
Yap Yum if you need the happy ending but bring your Euros, you'll need em'.
Posted by: kookdom at October 11, 2005 11:54 AMJust say no to beer.
Someone, please post some pics of these hot Dutch girls I keep hearing about. Kaiser? It might make Alain's two years fly by.
Posted by: MSG at October 11, 2005 12:01 PMAnyone surf Vieques? Got a chance to go on the cheap.
Posted by: Burnt Reynolds at October 11, 2005 12:04 PMAh yes, the glare from the sun...my advice to wait two weeks then you won't see the sun again for another 48 weeks.
Kick ass, Alain. Thanks for the public art. I say pshaw to team sports with their pleasant sociability. Real sports are about pain, not fun; pick up road biking in Europe...watch "Breaking Away" before you go.
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at October 11, 2005 12:09 PMRZA, agreed the graffiti/art on the sea wall saw better days before the most recent buff. When I arrived in 1996 I photographed the entire stretch, it was amazing then, very colorful, whisical and very local-style "SF." I have the whole stretch of it linked together in a continuous photo-montage that runs the length of my kitchen wall.
Some people, esp these days, rather suck at graffiti/street art. And those are usually the ones that tag it up like 10, 15, 20 times, and tag over other people, etc., and make that eyesore/mess out of it. We can all see the difference between art and blight in such situations. IMHO the ad-hoc "taggers" are filthy little blighters with no artistic talent. As if to say: "If you know you suck at art, don't buy paint, get drunk and run along the sea wall at night, mmmkay kiddies.... ?" ;)
Alain, as we can see, has a coherent higher purpose...and skills!
Posted by: Chiaroscuro at October 11, 2005 12:20 PMtonight at cafe du nord
tex-mex desert soundscapes, morricone-y rock driving pieces, brooding instrumental intensity...
Posted by: rza at October 11, 2005 12:22 PMMore about out local thief:
Another Car Break-In at Ocean Beach. SurfPulse Offers Reward!
Another car break-in occurred at Ocean Beach, San Francisco at Pacheco and Great Highway between 11 AM and noon on Friday, September 30, 2005.
The looter broke out the vent window, stole CD's, wallet, ID, credit cards, cash, and went shopping. This is the latest reported car break-in of a surfer's car between Noriega and Pacheco. Click here for more info on the last rash of thefts at OB, including a description of a suspect.
SurfPulse is not offering a reward of $100 worth of surf clothing/products to the person that gives the police enough information to lead to the apprehension of the OB bandit. Please do NOT try to confront this thug. He's been described as very sketchy looking, and possibly dangerous.
Please contact the San Francisco Police Department at 415-553-0123 (non-emergency line) if you have any information on the robber. And dial 911 for crimes in progress!
Send any photos or video of the suspect to SurfPulse, so we can get the word (and image) out about this guy!
Posted by: Dennis at October 11, 2005 12:39 PMI just noticed the messeage reads, "Surfpulse is not offering a reward..." I think it is supposed to read, "Surfpulse is NOW offering a reward..."
Posted by: Dennis at October 11, 2005 12:41 PMHey chiaro! if theres any way you could post that shot of the wall back in '96 i personally would be stoked to see it.
anyone ever see any egyptian ruins or any other ruins from some crazy old civilization? i love the graffiti on those things.."death to ceasar XVII" "ramses sucks CVXXII" and the like..
Posted by: bagel at October 11, 2005 12:47 PM
Posted by: surfseeker7 at October 11, 2005 12:48 PM
Posted by: surfseeker7 at October 11, 2005 12:49 PMSS - That sun in the eyes in the evening is painful. I'm sure it does some damage, little by little. Fortunately for us, it's usually foggy in the afternoon over the horizon. You ask a good question. I don't have a good answer.
Related:
Posted by: Dennis at October 11, 2005 12:58 PMSomething we need to keep in mind though is that in the early morning, people paddling for waves cannot see if there is someone in front of them paddling out if the sun is bright. So for the person paddling out, be extra cautious to get out of the way of the rider. The opposite is true in the evening. The person paddling out cannot see the surfer paddling for a wave. So the rider needs to be careful and not expect the person paddling out to see you.
dennis, who exactly kicked you in the nuts this morning...?
Posted by: at October 11, 2005 01:06 PMAnon - I'm bored and I missed a surf session last night.
Posted by: Dennis at October 11, 2005 01:21 PMchia, i'd also love to see those old mural pics. it'd be comforting to see that at least one point in time some quality visuals had a front row seat at ob.
Posted by: rza at October 11, 2005 01:21 PMsorry-that was me, dennis...
just teasing you!
I missed this whole weekend cause I'm coughing up green hack for three weeks!?!
Posted by: flap at October 11, 2005 01:27 PMNo problem flap. It was an earned ribbing.
My favorite graffiti on the wall was the dogs. Kinda looked lie Dogs of War. There was a nice mushroom on the storm drain at Irving also.
Posted by: Dennis at October 11, 2005 01:33 PMYou've probably heard Banksy, a UK-based street/public artist but he's got some really cool stuff and a sense of humor:
www.banksy.co.uk
Posted by: limevoodoo at October 11, 2005 01:37 PMi like how that sharks still going strong on the judah bathroom and whoever's supposed to paint over the stuff leaves the sea creatures, cool city worker guy or girl..i see this guys chubs around too that i like
Posted by: bagel at October 11, 2005 01:44 PMThe guy that wrote one of the best text books on Surface Waves , Prof. John Wehausen, just passed away. It's worth a read if you are interested in the theory and math behind waves.
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at October 11, 2005 01:49 PMBagel and rza, I'll have to see what I can do about that panorama shot of the OB wall from '96. It might not come out so hot as a photograph of a string of other, smaller photos, but I'll give it a shot at the weekend.
I'm also glad the shark remains on the Judah bathroom.
Banksy is great with the stencils and wheat-pasteups, his first published appearance was in a book called "Stick 'Em Up" in 2002. My friend Garrett Chow -- who is now in Amsterdam as a graphic designer -- was also featured in the book and has a crew called "TLP" -- The London Police. Occasionally they come back to SF and I've asked Garrett to do up the OB wall sometime. They do characters like these:
http://www.thelondonpolice.com/
NaClH2O is another place where "art" happens at OB.... ;)
Posted by: Chiaroscuro at October 11, 2005 02:52 PMhttp://www.woostercollective.com/2003_10_26_newsarchive.html
This whole site has great street art with a deep sense of community.
Posted by: Chiaroscuro at October 11, 2005 02:56 PMwith all those arms
this buddah can paddle out in doh ob
Posted by: otf at October 11, 2005 03:11 PMthat buddha is rad!
Posted by: e at October 11, 2005 03:40 PMThat is SIIIIIIIIICK
Posted by: Mexi at October 11, 2005 03:42 PMAny word on what went down in the Pacifica meeting last night re' fee parking in the main lot?
If it happens it'll happen around Jan '06.
Those of us who live in PTown can buy $25/year passes.
It'll completely alter the makeup of the lineup, more crowds toward the NorCal end and less in the middle.
So, anyone know if it got decided last night?
Posted by: Betty at October 11, 2005 03:45 PMisn't the nor cal end actually the south end?
Posted by: puzzled at October 11, 2005 04:12 PMhttp://www.ci.pacifica.ca.us/CITYHALL/agco20051010.pdf
Great. Pacifica gets grants from the feds and the state, rebuilds without an adequate maintenance plan and then wants to come back and give the residents a sweetheart deal and essentially bar non-residents. One more nail in the coffin of public access to the beach. I can't wait until San Francisco DPW gets wind of this. Get ready for $5 days at OB.
e, think Massara might be interested in this?
Pretty interesting surf this week. Fall is here. Watch out for my new CrowdPleaser™ in the lineup.
Posted by: kdalle at October 11, 2005 04:13 PMyeah! kdalle's back!
I'll forward that info to massara, though i'll bet he's already aware.
Posted by: e at October 11, 2005 04:16 PMthat would be sweet for chairo, thanks.
Bill Martin said its gonna get hot and glassy again..and if it doesnt i say we all snake him. jk. peace man.
Posted by: bagel at October 11, 2005 04:18 PMLike San Francisco?
Like Graffiti?
Check out Graffiti Archaeology
http://www.otherthings.com/grafarc/index.html
Posted by: searoom at October 11, 2005 04:26 PMInstead of charging visitors they should tax the surf schools and make everyone riding a foamie pick up trash for 15 minutes prior to surfing
Posted by: at October 11, 2005 04:28 PMsearoom: love it! So much wild style....mon favorite....merci beaucoup.
Posted by: Chiaroscuro at October 11, 2005 04:40 PMnice call on the innovative taxes and beach maintenance idea anon!!!
Posted by: vons at October 11, 2005 04:42 PMIf that passes in Pacifica I will be really annoyed. I am so sick of having to pay for everything (health care, car registration/insurance, and everything else on top of taxes. I thought this was a "free" country and now surfing is going to cost $3 bucks everytime you go to the beach!
Where does it end?
I'm feeling vexed again!
Posted by: flap at October 11, 2005 05:05 PMyeah, put those foamies into a work detention/tax program! it's almost always the newcomers/part-time beach-goers who lack respect for the ocean.
re: bill martin - i think i spoke with him in the lineup a couple weeks ago at ob. he had his whole family out there enjoying the day. as a kid, i used to want to be a weatherman....ha.
Posted by: rza at October 11, 2005 05:08 PMYou seem sincere, earnest and well meaning Alain which is surely admirable but even with the little insider surf data touches your mural is pretty amateurish high school binder doodle fodder. Keep it up, the doing is more relevant than the result and the minute this board starts rubbing your back you better believe it's time to move along brah.
Posted by: cultural speed bump at October 11, 2005 05:12 PMA while back I busted a couple of kids spraying lame looking graffiti on the seawall. It was broad daylight, I was in a crappy mood, was walking back and saw a boy and a girl starting to tag w/black spray paint. They saw me and quit. Then, up on the promenade, I heard this "pshshshshshsh..." They were at it again! Since they were below they couldn't see me as I mosied over to their new position. I put my board down, leaped onto the wall directly above their heads, and upon landing , hollered "HEY!!!" *growly voice* " I wouldn't do that if I were you." The look on their faces!! Keep in mind that at this point I was a pissed off looking woman in a full wetsuit, gloves, and booties w/hair sticking out wildly in all directions. Needless to say this spontaneous method works and is hilarious. The Legend of Psycho Chick probably made the rounds of the high school hallways the next day.
But yeah...good art in public - yes! Ugly graffiti - no! Beware of Psycho Chick Graffiti Avenger.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 11, 2005 05:17 PMnice one ss! punk kids..
i chatted with bill martin in the water once seemed like a pleasent fellow..
Posted by: bagel at October 11, 2005 05:36 PMI think the mural is a nice expression of Alain's emotions at the time, with a clear reminder of who he is what's up next. And the seawall is an excellent public canvas, I especially like the political tags.
I loe my job!
Posted by: mexi at October 11, 2005 05:38 PMLOVE
Posted by: Mexi at October 11, 2005 05:38 PMtwo years will pass in a blink, alain...you have an incredible euro train system to work with, too. weekend surf trips to northern france?? make a list, check it twice! enjoy all your days, landlocked or not...
Posted by: friendly at October 11, 2005 05:41 PMBeauty is in the eye of the beholder. Your method sounds a little hypocritical, Avenger.
Posted by: Pokemon at October 11, 2005 05:42 PMNice critique cultural speed bump, or should I say BVB! Always there to regualte the art talk. Brah.
Posted by: Loosah at October 11, 2005 06:09 PMPEZ!!
Posted by: ryan at October 11, 2005 09:02 PMThis guys is a total KOOK.
He thinks he's better than anyone, This KOOK can't even stand up on his board.
Pretending to be what dude! Go back to your town.
You are nothing but a big KOOK.
You think by paddleling out on a big day makes you a good surfer. What's the point of doing that if you can't even catch a wave. If so, you can't turn the board,ha.
searoom is a kook too!
Posted by: anon at October 11, 2005 09:10 PM
Posted by: test at October 11, 2005 09:28 PMWhere the picts of all the sluty girls?
Posted by: pixelepete at October 11, 2005 10:21 PMlee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry lee perry
Posted by: yush dub at October 12, 2005 12:21 AMNice on the Lee Perry!
Oh yeah, work ruined surfing. Yaaay.
Posted by: Hb at October 12, 2005 12:32 AMpffff.... yet another reason to never surf pathetica.
Posted by: bbr at October 12, 2005 05:32 AMoh you mean kookcifica
Posted by: at October 12, 2005 06:47 AMfuck lindy. i'm jonesing for that skatepark to open. it's solid slab reef chock full of OH gnarlyness for sure.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 12, 2005 07:43 AMHa! Ever since they paved the lots, it's been a way more crowded at LM. Bring back the dirt and make it free, Otherwise charge and let all the non residents go somewhere else when OB is blown out. If your good enough to surf OB, it ain't worth $3.00 to surf LM. If not, go somewhere else.
Posted by: at October 12, 2005 09:44 AMParking fee = KRA (Kook reduction Act)
It's a state park. They charge for lot parking at other state parks, why not at Pacifica.
Posted by: a non Pacifica resident at October 12, 2005 10:46 AM