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oh yeah

Toured around and things looked dismal.
Small, dumpy summertime crud.
Sea-surface not too bad.
Thought about bailing.
Get a call from Christian,
"Hey E, let's just go out in front of my house man."
Always stoked to surf with the Brazzo ripper.
Things look dubious but we head out.
Inside sandbar, steep peelers.
Dry-hair paddleout.
Within minutes we realize it's better than it looked.
A few waves bowl and wedge.
Christian works some long rights for multiple lip smacks.
I find a few drops and sections.
Christian takes off on a fat-n-smooth left.
Steep drop.
Carves off the bottom.
Accelerates off the bottom.
Speeds vertically up toward the lip.
Fucking WHAAACK!! off the top.
Re-enters.
Pumps down the line.. gets tons of speed.
Loooonnnggg floater then rides the wave out.
Sweet.
After 15 minutes of surfing we'd each caught 6 or 7 waves.
Turned out to be a solid session.
Fast, critical inside-grinders on offer.
Good times.

The Big Issue of Surfer mag has a cool interview with Rabbit. Some interesting stuff about the time in the early 70's when he and Ian Cairns brought the wrath of many Hawaiian heavies for being loud-mouthed, arrogant punks in the water and also for saying "Fuck You" to BK during a contest in Australia. Supposedly Rabbit and Ian had to sequester themselves inside a hotel for 60 days and seriously feared for their lives if they ventured through the North Shore or out to any of the main breaks. Supposedly some of the Da Hui style heavies went out "Rabbit hunting" looking to beat him down. Eddie and Claude Aikau came to the rescue of Ian and Rabbit and held this huge trial/discussion in an effort to difuse the situation. Pretty heavy story.

Also just finished "Helter Skelter." It's the story of the Charles Manson trial. Some freaky shit!! The dude had a little squadron of cutie-pie kill queens hanging on his every whim. Giant orgies, LSD-licked fantasy worlds, "Creepy-Crawly" stealth burglery and murder missions, Old Testement horsemen of the apocalypse type shit. The Manson Family was busy looking for a bottomless pit somewhere near Death Valley where they would await the onslaught of Helter Skelter, allowing the black man to overtake the white man in an all-out race war. The war would be stimulated by Manson and his underlings murdering establishment "pigs" and then pinning those murders on the Black Panthers. At one point during the trial Manson lept up from his seat with a pencil in his hand and lunged at the judge as if to stab him in the neck. It took 10 bailiffs to subdue him.

He's still alive.

It looks like the Mundaka contest is cancelled.

J-bay on hold, swell expected tonight.

Tom posted this the other day. Pretty inspiring.

glad you got some this am i has an early partners meeting
i've seen big bruddahs rip like that over in the islands, amazing they can paddle into anything..demonstrates the power of mother ocean.. to be able to levitate all that poi

Posted by: mig at July 19, 2005 10:09 AM

Good story about Rabbit. He was also one of the dudes that would come over with about 5 bucks in his pocket and be forced to get by someway or not surf north shore.

I've been reading the great stories in the new Surfers Journal. See in the back they have a thing that you can order any back issue. Any of you heads know some of the good articles/issues? Cool.

Posted by: Hb at July 19, 2005 10:21 AM

ah, this makes me miss cali...and you, of course

Posted by: kdv1215 at July 19, 2005 10:26 AM

nice scoring! looked kind of fun..that charles manson guy sounds crazy! weird how crazy people can get so many followers and stuff..yar

Posted by: bagel at July 19, 2005 10:35 AM

unsolicited advert from amazon today plugging the latest capitalistic attempt to cash in on the blue crush wave

i've never surfed with bliss or courage. anybody know them? are they cool heads?

Posted by: snake at July 19, 2005 10:37 AM

"Will you, won't you want me to make you
I'm coming down fast but don't let me break you
Tell me tell me tell me the answer
You may be a lover but you ain't no dancer

Look out helter skelter helter skelter
Helter skelter"


Posted by: squeaky fromme at July 19, 2005 10:47 AM

Hola amigos! Been here in Centro America for about a month. Scored some good stuff, nice large right points, reefs and I´ve been seriously beaten by some beaches here, Last week Hermosa looked like Pipe. There is a bit of Dengue in my hood, about 800 cases, luckily my wife and I are fine. I´m heading out to Salvador today then Guatemala for a couple of weeks before I return to Costa for my final couple of weeks. I´m meeting with Ian. Seriously missing SF, but Not the summer SF that is the reality now. Costa Rica is turning into Florida quickly, I actually gave out some serious vibe when a surf camp rolled into one point with four van loads of people, freaking annoying.

Oh and that fat dude is my hero...

Posted by: mexi at July 19, 2005 10:51 AM

MEXI AND IAN FOR PRESIDENT AND VP!!!

Posted by: j at July 19, 2005 10:53 AM

The Manson family used to live at 636 Cole St at Haight.

Posted by: mwsf at July 19, 2005 10:54 AM

6 or 7 waves each in 15 minutes?
So, with paddle out, you got a waves and paddled back out in about 2 minutes?

Start counting your waves and you'll see that you aren't catching that many.

Posted by: BS at July 19, 2005 10:54 AM

one of the most bone chilling, chicken skin experiences of my life was driving up Cielo Dr. in Beverly Hills to the former home of Sharon Tate. Sat in the car imagining the midnite mayhem that occurred
there. Argggh!
he sent his posse up there to do the bloody deed and he's still alive

how about little charlie hiding in the kitchen cabinet of the death valley house when it was raided

Posted by: bugliosi at July 19, 2005 10:57 AM

Posted by: a prostitutes son at July 19, 2005 10:59 AM

Oh snap! He called you out, e! I bet you only caught like 5 or 6 waves...6 or 7 is totally impossible without a jet ski!

What a loser, BS. It was small, dumpy, right near shore, easy to catch waves...it's not friggin' Teahpoopoopeepee.

Posted by: MCC at July 19, 2005 11:00 AM

god its glassier than hell out there.

Posted by: Brian at July 19, 2005 11:15 AM

I'm with BS on this one. I bet Christian and E couldn't even make the paddle-out, and concocted this cockamamie story of multiple waves as they sat dejected on the beach.

-- FunBoard Veterans for Truth

Posted by: kloo at July 19, 2005 11:19 AM

klassic post kloo

Posted by: j at July 19, 2005 11:31 AM

ha! that's awesome BS. I was surprised when Christian told me we had only been out for 15 minutes. Maybe not 6 or 7 waves.. but... there was a constant flow of waves so you never really sat on your board for too long before catching another one. Not that they were primo waves or anything.. just shoulder-high shore grinders.

cool manson posts. yeah mwsf. that's crazy shit that he lived right on Cole street. He picked up some of his girls on the Haight.

Posted by: e at July 19, 2005 11:33 AM

i'm backing e and christian.

with the right attitude anything is possible even on a day that looks like crap. good on ya for working with what you got.

shred on in peace.

S.U.C.K
-Surfers United against Cubicle Kaptivity

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 19, 2005 11:39 AM

shite - even one wave is more waves than i caught this morning.

Posted by: caveman at July 19, 2005 11:41 AM

Good call BS, we should all devote more effort to accurately documenting our wave counts. What is the point of surfing if you don't tally exactly how many waves you score and compute the correct waves/minute ratio?

Posted by: the accountant at July 19, 2005 11:49 AM

ill second that, though im riding the huge right hander of procrastination right now, MY WAVE DUDE! whoa!

Posted by: bagel at July 19, 2005 11:52 AM

Is the pic from yesterday of fat assed Kevin Ancell photoshopped pulling in at Boat House? I think BV might have some McGee's for sale for all you OB come lately Mollusk faced surfslappedfogdriods. Prices start at 300,00 for an 8.5x11" hand drawn. Anything larger you cannott afford. E continues with his fanatises and how he comes up with this shit defies logic. Dude must have a lot of time on his hands...

Posted by: INOKEA at July 19, 2005 11:56 AM

e, you must have been sleepy this morning. My personal record is 12 waves in 8 minutes in 6' surf mid-beach. I never lie ;).

Posted by: Dennis at July 19, 2005 12:00 PM

I was 10 in 1968. Those few years before and after were pretty freaky/scary for a kid. Vietnam, Watts Riots, Detroit Riots, the '68 Democratic Convention, Weather Underground, Black Panthers, Hells Angels, Manson, Bobby K. assasinated, MLK assasinated, the SLA and on and on. But I'm not sure if I'd want to be 10 now though either.

On a surfing note, I've been re-acquainting myself with the log recently. It's a nice diversion during these Lake Pacific days.

Posted by: R3W at July 19, 2005 12:08 PM

Man, no surf makes this board dull. Post some nude pics, or some stock/investment tips, people!

Posted by: MSG at July 19, 2005 12:12 PM

I'm dropping in on your right hander of procrastination, bagel. HA!

Harumph, Dennis, I've taken 13 waves/ 6-8' / directly on the head in under 5 minutes. This is scientifically verified data, because every time I paddle out I never fail to reset the H20Punishment Meter™ installed in the top of my hood. [ I was a chosen one to test the prototype ] ;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 19, 2005 12:13 PM

INOKEA rules. The spirit of BVB lives on.

ok.. maybe i only caught 1 wave this morning, on which is wiped out like a total kookmeister! surrrff!!

Posted by: e at July 19, 2005 12:18 PM

Posted by: at July 19, 2005 12:29 PM

Posted by: at July 19, 2005 12:30 PM

holy shit!

Posted by: e at July 19, 2005 12:31 PM

"Holy Shit" is right! That guy's wearing jean shorts with the 'all white' Reeboks! And look at the lassie next to him...Blue-black tint Revo's and matching Russell crew neck sweatshirt! Holy Shit!!!!!

Posted by: at July 19, 2005 12:37 PM

btw: anyone know where coffey moved his shop too?
i was hoping to discuss my next board but his shop was gone....

even if e's telling tall tales. i'm still backing him. beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

i've dropped in behind you bagel. watchout for me on your next roundhouse.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 19, 2005 12:49 PM

3to5, Coffee is right behind his old shop. You have to drive around to the backside and there's an entrance there. schweeet.

Posted by: e at July 19, 2005 12:56 PM

oops.. meant "Coffey"

Posted by: e at July 19, 2005 12:56 PM

If I could live my life over again I wouldn't make the same mistakes, just the same amount of different ones. Mistakes I'd avoid:
I would not ever take drugs or drink. (Damn, didn't my parents tell me that?)
Not make lifestyle altering plans due to concessions with women in my life.
Live in a tropical climate.
Studied a lot harder and finished college right after high school. (Damn, didn't my parents tell me that too?)
Surfed a lot more in my 20's and 30's.
Rolled with the punch thrown by the bouncer that broke my nose.
Spent more time reading Blakestahs reports and less time driving ;)

Posted by: Dennis at July 19, 2005 01:02 PM

Did INOKEA just make fun of the Boatdocks Beach Master? Whoa dude, be careful! You'l never surf Pedro again! ;)

Posted by: Jimmie at July 19, 2005 01:04 PM

Hi sharkbait, will be coming to town-lost your phone number. Shoot me an email-let's go surf.
e_o@hotmail.com

Posted by: welle at July 19, 2005 01:09 PM

Posted by: surfseeker7 at July 19, 2005 01:23 PM

the top girl with the tattoo up her back.
YUMMEEE!
love the lower-back dimples.

Posted by: at July 19, 2005 01:36 PM

i call the 3 second from top

Posted by: perv #1 at July 19, 2005 01:41 PM

lime green twins look like Bliss and Courage

Posted by: tube rider at July 19, 2005 01:48 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at July 19, 2005 02:30 PM

Wonder Womans camel toe! I'd know it from 10,000 miles away!

Posted by: Clark Kent at July 19, 2005 02:54 PM

come on down for a blow job
catch a flight to south padre island,texas today

Posted by: emily at July 19, 2005 03:16 PM

oh yeah kaiser, take this!

Posted by: j at July 19, 2005 03:34 PM

Regarding Dennis's life advice, when it is appropiate for a twenty-something bottom-feeder in the cubicle food chain to take off from work in order to surf? I've heard the guy who owns the LA Times would take off in the middle of board meetings.

Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at July 19, 2005 03:44 PM

john coltrane is the MAN!
Crescent frickin rules.

Posted by: e at July 19, 2005 04:32 PM

Posted by: souls of mischief at July 19, 2005 05:16 PM

Posted by: viva brazil! at July 19, 2005 05:29 PM

Posted by: at July 19, 2005 05:30 PM

hey mr. IKEA I like da kine buy 2 da drawings
you take check bra?
is me in da pic above, I not fat I jus da kine horizontally challenged
somebody else call me Kevin Ancell again and I go broke face.

Posted by: e coli okole at July 19, 2005 05:47 PM

I just got back from surfing a very decent little left in our fair city, which I had all to myself for close to two hours! When I got home, there was a parking place right next door to my house. And then, as I was unloading my stuff, a very pretty young woman CROSSED THE STREET to ask where did I go out, how were the waves, etc., etc. ... I am not making this up! I put my board away and immediately went and bought five lottery tickets.

Posted by: Jimmie at July 19, 2005 08:23 PM

shoulda hit that bid Jimmie

Posted by: bid slapper at July 19, 2005 08:59 PM

Where does that term come from? bid?

Posted by: curious george at July 19, 2005 09:11 PM

No, no, no, no no ... I have a SON who is too old for this woman.

Posted by: Jimmie at July 19, 2005 09:17 PM

Anybody remember reading the colonel's blog? I think he's a friend of somebody here. Anyway, he's an thirty-something who just quit his advertising sales gig to surf more and spend more time with his family.

http://colparker.blogspot.com/

Posted by: steve-o at July 19, 2005 10:14 PM

e, thanks for wc's relo info. arrghh. so close, yet so far......

jimmie good vibe was in the air last night.

taylor knox just nailed his last wave in the last seconds of his heat against danny wills.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 20, 2005 08:02 AM
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