A tough weekend for surf
If you were out of town this weekend and worried about missing good surf, quit your worrying. The WSW onshore wind never stopped blowing from Friday afternoon until right now. All day and all night. Local beaches were hacked and grumpy. I'm sure people scored goodies somewhere, but they weren't easy to find. This morning witnessed frumpy, shoulder-high windslop. Conditions for serious surf-addicts only!
Guitar-fans out there - check out Eddie Hazel, who was the original guitarist for Funkadelic. He's only on the earliest albums, like "Free you mind... and your ass will follow" and "Maggot Brain." The dude lets it soar with power and conviction. Hendrix-ish.
More CCG stories:
For about 1 week now there had been rumors and hype of this really big swell, but you know how swell rumors are. Sometimes they are bullshit, well at least in california. But anyways just as planned we all woke up tuesday morning to see the ocean going nuts, I ***** ***** my pants when i first walked out. There wasnt even really a wave at lakey peak, the waves at the pipe were breaking in the middel of the channel almost to where the peak begins and then No mans was doing the same, It was ***** big. So not one to wait around i grabed my 7'0 and ran down to nungas. I get there to see what appears to be a never ending giant left. I had no idea how big it was, there was no one out yet and nothing to give me a perspective. But there was, as i see a tiny dot come flying across a massive indonesian wall, Right there i realized it was a bit bigger then i thought, paddeling out i almost got swept down to persiscopes, When i got out there i was a bit scared, YOu didnt just turn around and paddel for these waves you had to watch them roll of the top 500 yards of reef. Meaning you were looking at what you had to take of on. But the wave turned out to be somewhat mellow and soft for its size meaning you could start to get comfortable and even start messing around a bit. And i had a great fun session, caught the biggest waves of my life and then the waves would hold that size for nearly 300 yards. what a blast.
But it was the days after this day that would turn into the most memorable sessions of my whole trip, the types of sessions i had been dreaming about. the next day the swell had dropped, but the energy was focousing on the peak. It was scary, real scary. huge lines of swell would form up, condense, contract, expand and then explode. More of a scary session then a good session, but the next day the swell didnt really drop but it cleaned up quite a bit. Meaning it wasnt nearly as scary. It was that afternoon. The winds were blowing light offshore out of the mountains, the tide was coming in, and there were only 5 guys out. It was perfect. the perfect day. I couldnt belive how uncrowded it was, i guess everyone had already snapped there boards or something, it was still pretty ***** big and scary out there but so perfect and beautiful, The wave looks like a cartoon, its so mechanical as it goese of in both directions, a gift from god. My first wave i air drop of the take of barely get to the bottom and then get a throaty barrel of the second section, I was fuckin stoked already, But then the next wave i probaly was handed the biggest asswhooping i have ever recevied, i was a paddel short. Hesitated. offshore wind caught under the nose of my board. I look down and see nothing but air under me as i grabed my rail and pigdoged threw the freefall, when the wave pinned my ass on the reef for an eterinity or at least long enough for me to break into a sweat. alright enough on that, I paddel back out to everyone clapping and laughing, But anyways a few minutes later a large set swings my way, this time i put my head down and paddel like theres a shark behind me or like i dont want to do what i just did, I pull in of the take off into a swirilng dark tube, the wave felt so ***** powerful, i dont think i have ever gone so fast. And then before i come out of that i see the next section throwing already, i grab onto my rail hold on and get blown out the back. The sun is just starting to set, theres only well now theres 10 guys in the water but still thats nothing, theres only 10 guys and they had all already become good friends of mine, the waves are perfect, the waters warm, I start laughing. I had been dreaming about this for about 3 years and here it was, I felt sorta like i acomplished something, i was so stoked. or stocked. The swell didnt really drop for nearly 10 days, and the next 4 evenings turned out to be replicas of the one described above, The small crew of us out there were trading waves, hooting each other onto waves and then givin eachother high fives. It did get a bit more croweded the next few evenings but still mellower, i got more comfortable in and around the tube. Many barrels i got were deepers and longer then the one i described above, but for some reason that one sticks in my mind the best, .
the whole crew of us there at the time was great, the most memorable night a local sumbawa band came to play claimin they had the best guitarr player in all of indo. the aussies said all my beers were on them, apparently drunk grommets are good entertainment. Then some Irish guys took up the stage and started rockin out, well as you can tell from my writing my memory from this night is a bit blank, but i do reamember it was a night to reamember and thats about it.
Alright well in a little bit i will start writing about the rest of sumbawa and then garagagan, and then i will go back and fill in all the gaps,
E- saw funkadelic many years ago and when the mothership arrived their guitarist was a thin dude wearing diapers who ripped! Where is he playing?
Posted by: antman at July 5, 2005 09:55 AMpeace
I think that Eddie Hazel actually died in '92. Not sure if he played with diapers or not antman??
Posted by: e at July 5, 2005 10:08 AMSaw them or should I say P funk allstars in 89. Dont know if it was him or not but he was a spindly little dude with a James Brown hairdoo who absolutely loved to jam. Check out some early late 60's/early 70's Curtis Mayfield . the stuff immediatley preceeding superfly is absolutely amazing. that man could play a guitar! amazing lyrics which hold up today.
Posted by: antman at July 5, 2005 10:49 AMthanks E for the hard work
Eric McPhadden - 'nough said.
Panic officially starts now.
Posted by: kookdom at July 5, 2005 10:58 AMMayfield's music imbued the blaxploitation quickie with a moral pulse, taking aim at the scourge of drugs in the inner city. It was one of Mayfield's gifts that his songs could sound joyful and heartbroken at the same time, suggesting the complexities of the human experience.
Posted by: entertainment weekly at July 5, 2005 10:58 AMj,
Posted by: mig at July 5, 2005 11:03 AMgot it ...thanks for the tip
coconut thriving?
Chile: Las Cruces area , in the fall. Any tips, talk, or books/things to look up? I know nothing. If I can freeload off some friends down there I might briefly go. madisoncuckoo at yahoo Muchas gracias!
Dolphin species discoverd in AU, 50> individuals :
http://news.yahoo.com/s/afp/20050705/sc_afp/australiawildlife_050705172006
lastly: @@#$%9ing @##% @#$%er #$$ing FISHING LINES! AGH!!
Posted by: s.s sharkbait at July 5, 2005 11:19 AMYo Niceness folks, I got to make a call out to those of you more skilled in the crafts of home improvement!
Jumping into the land of home ownership this weekend and I have a few "projects" that need some attention. If you have some professionals, semi-professionals, wanna-be professionals, etc. that you would recommend, let me know:
1) Sheetrocking - Planning on doing it myself.
2) Surf Shaping/Repairing Shack Building - See sheetrocking. The sheetrocking is part 1 of the surf shack building. Gotta make the garage a convertable. Garage during the day, surf repair/shaping room any other time.
3) Painting/Texturing - I might need some wall texture work done. Most immediate need as I suck at that. Painting is easy, I can deal with that.
Email me: LanceEA at yahoo dot com
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Surf news: I got a sunny, fun session up in Crescent City over the long weekend. It was about thigh high but worked just fine! I think this is the worst stretch of surfing I have seen in the last 4 years! June sucked (except in Mexico).
I hear there is some south out there this week. Would love to get at least one decent surf in per week at this point.
Posted by: Kaiser at July 5, 2005 11:34 AM
Posted by: at July 5, 2005 11:44 AMyoung kelly in the steve sherman photo?
Posted by: at July 5, 2005 12:02 PMi had a pretty fun june, but july has been zero so far. i did, however, paint the master bedroom. poorly. next time i'll have kaiser do it.
what happened with fishing lines, sharkbait?
Posted by: kloo at July 5, 2005 12:28 PM
Posted by: Kaiser at July 5, 2005 12:28 PMI need some recommendations for professional epoxy repair. Bought a 7'0" M13 Merrick on Wednesday, and on the third time out, I got blessed with a 5" crack (starts on the rail and ends on the deck). No idea how it happened, but what's done is done.
What's the latest scoop on who to call? I called SF, they told me to call Surftech. Surftech's nearest authorized repair guy is in Santa Cruz; is there someone near SF doing good repair work?
Posted by: vee at July 5, 2005 12:46 PM
Posted by: real or fake? at July 5, 2005 12:57 PMAll here;
Posted by: at July 5, 2005 01:00 PMhttp://www.surftech.com/repair.php
http://www.allaboutsurf.com/0507/articles/skate/index.php
Posted by: Skate! at July 5, 2005 01:13 PMtotally fake.
i think im just going to paddle out tonight..
Posted by: bagel at July 5, 2005 01:14 PMtough weekend indeed but i will say that the part of ob I paddled out yesterday midday was more fun than it looked from the road. dumpy and lots of junk but some decent waves coming through with surfable faces. saw some other cats getting decent rides too. i thought maybe it had cleaned up but afterwards it still looked like crap from the beach.
Posted by: vons at July 5, 2005 01:33 PMgot some ok ones on saturday. ragnar and some other guy were killing it. yesterday bodysurfed bolinas in boardies, suprisingly warm after the initital freeze. saw some uncalled for chicks wearing thongs on the beach, yuck.
Posted by: bbr at July 5, 2005 01:43 PMReal or fake?
Posted by: Burnt Reynolds at July 5, 2005 01:45 PMFor all of you interested in building some OB karma, there's SF Surfrider clean up at Sloat tonight starting at 6pm. Bags and gloves will be provided. Stay for as long or as short as you want. See ya there.
http://www.sfsurfrider.org/com_events.htm
Posted by: adam at July 5, 2005 01:56 PMThanks for the post SKate!
7 days 8 sessions at the local cement waves. My body is tweaked. My spirit is lifted.
I can't ollie for shit. Carve on!
Kaiser, I've built a few shaping/glassing rooms in my past. Hit me with an email if you wish.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 5, 2005 01:59 PMi dont think you can build karma.
you can build other things though... like shaping bays.
Posted by: elias at July 5, 2005 02:04 PM
Posted by: blowhard at July 5, 2005 02:13 PMThat picture of Bill Martin is almost as good as this one:
Posted by: Kaiser at July 5, 2005 02:35 PM
Posted by: e at July 5, 2005 02:54 PMgnar!!!
Posted by: MxRxHx at July 5, 2005 02:58 PMwhoa. where's that mysto left, e? (general region if it's a sensitive spot?)
Posted by: bobby at July 5, 2005 03:43 PMsumatra.
Posted by: at July 5, 2005 03:51 PM
Posted by: Troy Mclure at July 5, 2005 03:52 PMkiller
not sumatra. It's from a typhoon swell. hmmmm...
Posted by: e at July 5, 2005 03:54 PMon the right... shnikeys
Posted by: bbr at July 5, 2005 03:56 PMtasmania.
Posted by: at July 5, 2005 03:59 PMlooking for referance on the interweb i came across this shot of a battle scene set from that movie Troy..nice left
Posted by: bagel at July 5, 2005 04:08 PMwo, than i found this
Posted by: bagel at July 5, 2005 04:11 PMthose boats would be getting worked!
that left is freaking sick
Posted by: bbr at July 5, 2005 04:13 PMMust suck trying to surf that w/all that heavy armor. Nice left, too!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 5, 2005 04:13 PMThey filmed Troy in the Cabo San Lucas area. That left is on a stretch of beach that is a sometimes spot. Mostly it's shorebreak.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 5, 2005 04:17 PMGot up early on the 4th with the girlfriend's car. While I'm getting changed at VFW (in the car, cause it was cold) homeless guy came up to the car. Didn't like the prospect of having the car broken into at VFW, didn't like the fisherman midbeach, and when I was at Sloat, shit, I might as well check further south. Go down to spot Bruce named last week as "looking good"; it was looking okay. Two other guys out. On my third wave I hit a "bump", went in to shore (even though it was definitely nothing), suddenly decided wave wasn't good at all and I beccame worried about the car being broken into. Besides, it was cold and I could only think of excuses why I shoulda stayed at bump-free Ocean Beach. Surfing is a sport that messes with your head. Aint no one playing basketball in a medium where they can't see what's under them.
Damn...just had to sign the drug test policy for a contractor.
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at July 5, 2005 04:23 PMThe good news about your drug free future Andrew is you'll be less paranoid about shit while your surfing.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 5, 2005 04:34 PMNice one 3to5.
Where's the J to the O to the C?
And is it fall yet?
Posted by: Hb at July 5, 2005 08:25 PMright here Hb! i'm restricted to these evening sessions on niceness.
gonna chill, turn on the virtual boomerang phish server, and jam! acoustic waves in the house!
Let me know when you come up north, maybe come Harvest time, when you want to surf the first North swell of the season on a kelpy reef and sample the rest of Santa Cruz's finest...
Reggae scene here has been going off with overflow from Sierra Music Fest... you'd be stoked!! Bambu Station & St. Croix in the house! You going to Reggae on the River???
Posted by: j.o.c at July 5, 2005 08:44 PMMe so horny.
Posted by: MSG at July 6, 2005 01:48 AMMe so horny.
Posted by: MSG at July 6, 2005 01:48 AM