E's Surf Report

e - my sources tell me that there are still 9:15 tickets available at Aqua.

word. thanks jimmie. i'm occupied until around 8:45 this evening. i was worried that if i tried to get tickets at the door before the show it would be sold out.

"Irie slave lizard...put the bong on the table, raise your hands in the air where we can see them, and slowly, slowly, step away from the digital camera and the table and the bong for that matter..."

I'm headed south this afternoon to score some mid-coast waves for Friday and Saturday. My friend owns a house near a "canyon" down there and I heard that the whole area was glassy yesterday!

Wish me waves and I wish you back too...

Have a nice day.

rad flap - you're gonna score. Scope out Cables, just north, if the reef is too crowded. I've had some all-time sessions along that beachbreak. Heavy waves and you can find your own zone.

peeeace.

posted late yesterday about my trip to mainland mex, it was great, just wanted to repost to ask if anyone knows anything about the nuances of how swell direction & tide & any other factors affect how the waves break down around saladita...have we any mainland mex bathymetry gurus out there?

e,

There is a sick reef, left spot, down there that I surfed long time ago which I got overhead and uber glassy with two of my friends.

Powerful waves comming out of the darkish horizon giving us backside barrles to enjoy so close to the rocks.
With the sun setting making the water look like a brackish firery lava with purple hues, it was so surreal it made me freak out a little. I had never surfed there before so I was shaking with adrenaline and then my friend yelled me into one. He had to because I was frozen like a deer. I then took a deep breath and figured if I was going to die it may as well be in front of two buddies so I made a heavy drop and got barrled by accident and even managed to squeek a shakey top gouge out before turning white as a ghost on the shoulder! I still remember those waves with the sunset and only my friends out 10+ years later. No one else was even around and this place was farking perfect.

nice

Flap sounds sick. Glassy fun waves sounds.. well, fun. I was down in SD last weekend for the PB Block Party. My friend Jon has an apartment at the dead end by South Coast. I'd wake up, hop the railing of his patio, check the waves, go back in suit up and surf. Sunday was pretty fun, shoulder high waves. Tons of people were out trunkin it.

Are they selling tickets at the door? I'd love to go but can't make it til the actual show.

After all the yappin' was done yesterday about cutting out the burning, the J.O.C. had it down perfect:

I think it's possible to live well, happy, with love, while smoking some herb. At it's best, I find it can help ground you in feelings of the moment / inspire / connect to a certain spirituality that is beautiful. At it's worst, I think it's isolating, communication blocking, demotivating, lazy, and confusing for the brain. It's just all about the Balance.

Right on. Swell coming. My buddy from SF is cruising down for the weekend too. Gonna be a niceness, swellness, shackness weekend.

I think Hb, quoting J.O.C. is correct. It IS "...all about the Balance."
On the other hand, some of us have no ability to moderate, or balance, our use of mind-altering substances. For us, abstinace is the best choice.

Apologies for this highly edited repost from yesterday's board, but I didn't I come into this discussion until early this morning and wanted to get back up here today.
I want to be real careful here, I don't want to offend anyone.
I've developed a lot of respect for Dennis from his many posts.
Friend of Bill W.'s heart is in the right place.
Addict has shown the courage to ask for help.
For me this is life or death shit; argument and debate in this area doesn't really serve any constructive purpose and can prevent someone from seeking the help they need.
Here goes: I used drugs for well over 20 years - my addiction kept me out of the water for nearly that entire time. I've been clean now for over 16 years. I continue to work a program of recovery that works for me.
Addict - don't let Friend of Bill W. turn you off from a visit to a 12 Step program. As I'm sure he is aware, he does not represent AA, or any other 12 Step program - no individual does.
Dennis - Congrats on the 18 years. I say whatever works to help you stay clean is just fine with me. However, with all due respect (and I MEAN that) a lot of folks - even those who have spent considerable time attending meetings -have mistaken ideas about 12 Step groups. Yeah, the 'god' word DOES get bandied about a lot in NA & AA. And there is a spiritual component in the approach to recovery within the 12 Steps. But AA & NA are NOT religious organizations. If they were, I would probably still be using drugs, or dead. Both groups, especially NA, make a point of urging addicts to seek ANY power greater than themselves THAT WORKS FOR THEM, WHATEVER IT MAY BE. It can be a traditional belief in a personified "god", or simply the power of one recovering addict helping another. What's important is that an addict's personal belief works for that individual.
Addict - Personally, I can't deal with organized religion either - not even a little bit. I too was raised in a HEAVILY religious family and have a hard time with organized ANYTHING. Outside of regularly scheduled meetings, NA is pretty disorganized. Still, I understand you not wanting to go to a group - I didn't either. But if you find yourself continuing to use even when you don't want to and decide that you want some help to stop, I know of two NA meetings here in SF geared especially towards atheists and agnostics - they've been known as the FUCK NO group for many, many years - Mon. 8pm and Sat. 2pm - 529 Clayton (btwn. Haight & Page). These addicts have found a way to help each other stay clean within the 12 Step process WITHOUT the belief in any sort of 'god' - you might want to check it out, it couldn't hurt.
Granted, the folks in NA may not be as hip, suave and debonair as the NICENESS crew, but then again, the crowd I used to hang out with when I was getting' loaded wasn't either!

awesome sessions in the past and more to come...I love how the wonderful vibes of surfing always prevail here. my weekend starts today and i'm soo ready to get outta the office!

i'm heading down to del mar for a few days (after a visit to city hall with my girl) and it looks like the surf will cooperate. besides blacks and 15th St., can any of you socal chargers (Hb, ian, etc.) recommend some other areas? and please tell me I can leave the wettie at home!!

Hey Flap, keep your mouth shut about lesser known spots or I'll sic Van and Whitey on your ass. I get a feeling your surfing is better suited for Pismo Beach if you are scared to drop-in at the spot you mentioned.

I can't name this spot, its still a secret....

Oh, and there were some fun waves this morning. I think E and I got onto a good little sand bar. Mellow times out there with not very many people in the water. I love the rain, it keeps people in bed.

Yeah, I saw the waves too. It looked pretty crappy though, but atleast it was glassy.

Jeezzuz, if you had an altimiter, how much higher would those guys in the boat be than the trough of that wave?!

Thanks Jimmie. I'm sure my boss would not be so pleased if he knew how often I was posting :)

I'm going to Monterey tonight and will be on a boat floating, or extreme-bobbing depending on the swell, around the bay tomorrow morning supposedly hunting for whales - courtesy of my wifes company. I find it difficult to believe we will spot any whales if the swell is 10 to 13 feet as forecasted. Actually, I hope the trip is cancelled cuz I know everybody's gonna get sick. Commitments...

Anyway, I'll look for some swellegence after the morning trip somewhere tween Monterey and SC. Hope the winds are good to me.

Dennis- my condolences if you have to go-I recently did the same with my wife and being around people who are sick isn't fun. One poor woman was still vomiting after we got off the boat.

Anyone have suggestions for best airline going to San Diego with board?

Have to put in yet another kudos to E. I don't know how he manages to put so much time into this site.

shout out to Dennis and Jimmie! You guys are keeping it really real!

nice to see hb and joc. joc, daughters volleyball tourney all this weekend........

addict,
try yoga. intense practice helped me work thru divorce and too much reliance on the herb. the quiet mind helped clear away the gnarly dreams. rightous chi goes far.

MB trash, I ain't scared! As I said it was a long time ago, actually 10 years ago and well I was surfing backhand at a good reef so well in fact I bet you were not even off your Mach 4 boogie board yet back then.

Notice I didn't mention the page number, the optimum tide window or the best season for said spot in the North American Stormrider Guide, if it is even in there which I don't think it is.

yo folks!

howdy from CR....

glad things are still the same
there...kaiser on IT in the a.m.
with e, people bitching and moaning
about something silly. warm water is
good. all you grumpy folks get on a
plane and get outta der. it is SO
worth it.

cheers. keep smiling in the water
too. i have met folks from all over
the states and the world all here to,
as e might say SSSSUUURRFFFFF!

good folks too. watched these 2 kids
one 12? other 9 or so, RIP it up today.
niceness.

peace.

keep on livin korewin. L I V I N

CR sound pretty sweet right now! Enjoy it.

Yeah it's all about balance in life, too much of anything will kill ya!

"Surf Realization has a way of sneaking up on you. This is true, not only in the surf but even more so in daily life. Pay attention because the lessons are fleeting but the rewards of ?getting it? are great indeed. Keep paddling."

Gerry Lopez about a 3 wave hold down and board ditching
story here: http://www.patagonia.com/culture/fieldreports/eke_moku.shtml?seepromo=yes

Gerry Lopez is my favorite surfer.

Anybody looking to live on the Great Highway? A neighbor just sent me an email saying he's looking for a roomate. Nice guy, great location. Won't clog e's with details, but email me and I'll forward you his notice. madisoncuckoo at yahoo dotcom

Cheers,

the guy is one of my all time favorites but i have personally seen gerry bail his board at that spot. i was glad he did, cuz it gave me the ok too as well. serious business that wave.

dennis, getting more psyched???

Ocean Day is tomorrow at OB

check the guy at the end of the little left

Who's going to be sick tomorrow?
Starting to show. Handful out at Mavs right now.

rza - visiting city hall to get married? if so, congrats

odd pic. caption was
"Here we come! The Unemployed Union of Sperm spills into a street in Bogota, Colombia, to promote condom use"

re: 12 step programs and other forms of kicking habits, i'm w/ jimmie in do whatever it takes. a lot of -isms and bad habits have ran in my family, and driven some to suicide, i say do what it takes to kick the habit and keep on kickin'.

hey, at least your not in a cambodian midget fighting orginization.

http://www.perfect.co.uk/robin/2005/05/lionvsmidgets.htm

"...ripples in the music of the universe."

Listen dirtbag hippies.
The Brigade is working to free you from what will eventually wipe you out. Niceness? The only 'niceness' you need is a guy at The Hook on his 12'6" X 4" taking of deep... on every set. Tell me how that feels after a few hours. He is you! You encouraged him, 'niced' him and now, well,
have a 'niceness' day!

keep oceans olive? Andy gets the best press.

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Long time lurker from the Atlanta with 16+ years of sobriety. In the 12-step program there is only one thing you need to know about God: You are not him/her. Go to a bunch of different meetings, find ones you can relate to or enjoy, and then hang with the winners- the people you want to be like.

I have a friend who has been white knuckling it for many years. He does really good until he binges and puts himself in the hospital. He keeps telling me his life is great, his marriage better than ever, and everything is wondeful. Then he goes on a 30 day binge amd wakes up in the hospital. He knows my story very well, but does not think AA is the answer. He seems to have trouble with the "turning it over to God" bit, but I know he is a fairly devoute Christian. What can you do? I think surfers would have a better grip on "not being in control" after a few really bad wipeouts.

More pics of girls in bikinis please!

to FDA-approved vertex of male loss first treats also and only anterior is on hair the proven Propecia pill men. treat area in the the mid-scalp (top pattern http://www.better-rx.com/propecia.html head).

Who is went out to surf today?

The Lane was big and crowded, so I headed to a spot a few blocks West. The waves were coming in somewhat less frequently than the Lane, but there were only 5 other guys out and the vibe was good. I haven't been in the water for two weeks due to a rotator cuff injury, and the coldness of the water shocked me. I paddled out on my new 5'9" Mandala quad and managed to catch a few head high waves. Tide will be a 1 foot low this afternoon, but the NW winds will be on it.

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