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stormy

Crustacean click-clack exoskeleton
Trans-dimensional freedom squirt.
engrams mold through habitualized action.
Recreated universes in our heads
Recreated realities tug and pull.
The power of a focused mind.
The tenacity of human curiousity.
Plugging away
Ripping away
Shaping and refining.
Hegelian Dialectic
Derridian Flux
Thus Spoke Zarathustra
One Dimensional Man
Old patterns form anew.
Zeniths torn asunder
The gobbling hords creep in
The rapacious appetites of man
Power, money and greed.
Fighting up while tearing down.
Infinite regress.
war as art?
sex as love?
peace as fiction?
truth as relative?
words as slippery.

slates as 7-time world champ?

javier photo from the pit of pits
javier niceness

Javier had this to say:


E, back in Cali right now surfing mellow beach breaks and chilling in Pacific. Surfing in Tahiti was a blast, but it's nice not having that element of danger (or severe bodily harm) every time you drop into a wave and see the reef sucking up and fish scurrying away on the drop.....although I do miss the barrels and the warm water.

A few hours before flying out of Tahiti, I was in the media tent at
the point checking emails in the late afternoon. Tostee came in and
looked me, and in a thick S African accent exclaimed, "What are you
doing here bru? Get out there and shoot. The winds have died down and
the conditions are perfect." I sprinted to my house, put my housing
together, and furiously paddled the 1 mile out to Teahupoo. Tied my
kayak to a buoy with a surf leash and swam out with nothing but
boardshorts, fins, and my camera as the sun was setting over the
horizon. Here is one of the shots from that session, just before
flying back home...(Thanks Tostee.)

Jav




Lopey ledging

i love this photo

East Coast winter (yoke photo)

ice

E as always spittin some bomb!

Posted by: PEZ at May 18, 2005 10:24 AM

man, i can't wait for that tahiti footage to come in another form than over the web... i want to seeeeeeeee..

off the charts!

Posted by: elias at May 18, 2005 10:27 AM

E you and Pez can share dreams with me anytime!

Posted by: gerry at May 18, 2005 10:29 AM

e- That level of introspection so early in the morning means nothing but decaf for you for the rest of the day.
As I was scrolling down to read your post, I could see Javier's photo in the bottom of my peripheral vision - at first I thought it was a sat shot of a big ole storm over some unrecognizable continent. Funny how our perceptions link, compare and contrast.
BTW great shot Javier! I know what you mean about feeling relief at not having to face "the reef factor." Even after a month of surfing relatively "easy" reef breaks in Tonga, dropping-in on a solid January day at Ocean Beach day felt slow & easy, knowing the bottom was sandy(even if it IS compacted nearly hard as cement).
I don't pay much attention to contest surfing - a lot of the time the conditions are marginal, so the surfing isn't all that cool to watch. But I just watched the footage posted on the ASP website of yesterday's final heat at Teahupoo - in-fucking-credible. That wave is crazy and the surfing was mind-boggling. I was especially impressed with how Slater & Hobgood could make it through barrels that were not always all that hollow. They'd pull in to a nice deep, hollow tube and then the curtain would seem to just suck against the face - but they'd stay with it and come out anyway. It must've been like surfing under a hundred fire-hoses.
Congrats to Slater! Watching the tiny adjustments he would make to get himself positioned in exactly the most critical part of that VERY critical wave was AMAZING.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 18, 2005 10:32 AM

I hate contests, I feel that surfing and contests don't mix, no soul. But shit that wave is crazy and Kelly killed it. But I couldn't image following a crowd a rippers around, I'm always trying to avoid them. Maybe that is why I suck as a surfer.

Posted by: Mexi at May 18, 2005 10:52 AM

Trent Munro AUS 2676 $45300/$356000 3,1,9,,,,,,,,,,
2 Andy Irons HAW 2364 $29300/$897333 5,2,9,,,,,,,,,,
2 Damien Hobgood USA 2364 $29300/$419950 9,5,2,,,,,,,,,,
4 Kelly Slater USA 2342 $42500/$1178505 5,17,1,,,,,,,,,,
5 Mick Fanning AUS 2210 $39800/$397460 1,9,17,,,,,,,,,,
6 C.J. Hobgood USA 2064 $21300/$513558 5,9,5,,,,,,,,,,
7 Taj Burrow AUS 2018 $22500/$655697 17,5,3,,,,,,,,,,
8 Tom Whitaker AUS 1886 $19800/$210475 3,17,9,,,,,,,,,,
9 Chris Ward USA 1852 $25000/$153400 2,17,17,,,,,,,,,,
10 Joel Parkinson AUS 1800 $16900/$486325 9,9,9,,,,,,,,,,
11 Dean Morrison AUS 1742 $19800/$261350 17,9,5,,,,,,,,,,
11 Fredrick Patacchia Jr HAW 1742 $17800/$136325 9,17,5,,,,,,,,,,
13 Nathan Hedge AUS 1701 $18900/$300700 9,33,3,,,,,,,,,,
13 Cory Lopez USA 1701 $21400/$535660 33,3,9,,,,,,,,,,
15 Daniel Wills AUS 1696 $19000/$477685 17,3,17,,,,,,,,,,
16 Richard Lovett AUS 1557 $16900/$542355 9,5,33,,,,,,,,,,
17 Mark Occhilupo AUS 1552 $17000/$901138 5,17,17,,,,,,,,,,
17 Darren O'Rafferty AUS 1552 $18000/$233650 17,5,17,,,,,,,,,,
19 Bruce Irons HAW 1425 $18200/$318100 9,33,9,,,,,,,,,,
19 Troy Brooks AUS 1425 $14200/$174775 9,9,33,,,,,,,,,,

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 10:57 AM

Food for thought...

The US wants to spend between $600 Billion to 1 Trillion on Space Weaponasation.

95% of the world's smaller countries are against this and their concerns are ignored by the more powerful superpowers.

Perspective: If you spent 1 million dollars a minute since Jesus was born that would roughly be 1 Trillion dollars...

happy wednesday

Posted by: flap at May 18, 2005 11:05 AM

Best ever!

Posted by: kaiser at May 18, 2005 11:05 AM

That EC pic is narsty. That guy'll be pickin sand out of his arse for a month after that go out.

I went out after work yesterday at 4:30. Had a one mini-duck-dive paddle-out but the current was brutal. It was messing up the waves more than the wind. Peaks would shift to the left, then the right, bounce up and flatten out all within a few seconds. I took my longboard cuz the surf was really bumpy looking. After getting out, I paddled south for about 5 minutes (on my longboard mind you) to get to a peak just about 20 yards south of my paddle out spot. Couldn't get there! Still in exactly the same spot.

The outside was breaking at about 7 feet in the face, at the peak. First wave made the drop but forgot to compensate for the longboard length by moving back to the tail. Pearled, tumbled and took in large quantities of h2o in the nasal cavity. Now I've moved into the two-block-wide rip that has developed where a nice sandbar used to reside. Decided to paddle south through the super-rip and not to fight the current. Next wave op was a nice left. Got narrelled on a quick trip down the line. By now I've passed the Sharkbait residence by a block or so and decide to walk home with a one wave session under my belt.

Shoulda waited cuz it got better after 6:30 pm. The current relaxed and the wind died down. Oh well.

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 11:09 AM

I meant paddled north thru the rip for what it's worth, which isn't anything.

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 11:14 AM

Morning Surf Report: Where was everyone? You know the drill, S winds blowing, hight tide.....Didn't see any of the "usuals" at and about. Pretty fun times. Not too many closeouts but the size was getting to that bastardy-level where the entire beach might close out if it got too much bigger, which it will! All in all, lots of wind but some big soft shoulders with some bowly sections here and there. All morning I went left. I love going left!

As for the Chopes contest, I think this might have been one of the best days EVER! Every heat was contested. Kelly Slater scored three 10 point rides, 4 more waves about a 9.70. In the final, Kelly dropped a 2 wave count of 20! Then, he paddled over, got a beer, got slotted drinking said beer, and still scored a 9.4 on the wave. Unreal. Damo was solid, CJ was solid, Bruce got unended by Slater, Taj represented, Andy lost.

Next time out at OB, try this:

Posted by: Kaiser at May 18, 2005 11:17 AM

watched linda marginal for 20 minutes.
800 people clogging and clammering.
saw about 2 rides.
opted for donuts.

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 11:19 AM

There are never crowds at Lindy, just people that sit in the lineup on surfboards.

Posted by: Kaiser at May 18, 2005 11:24 AM

He's wasting that shoulder!

Posted by: Mexi at May 18, 2005 11:24 AM

Dennis, I saw your last ride and paddle yesterday on my Dog walk. Some good looking waves were just a few more blocks North of you. Of course I didn't see too many of them ridden even with about 8 guys on it. Waves seemed to be breaking a bit reluctantly. Must have been a bit of high tide bounce. I was still debating the go out, or whether to save myself for this AM.

What's this world coming to? Even at 5:30AM there are already people out at Admiral N's. Doof and I caught a few fun ones, but sheesh. My last ride I told the Walrus, "I'm going!" and banked under him to get to that long right wall.

Posted by: friend #1 at May 18, 2005 11:27 AM

Kasier-

Next time surf the point. Love to get the stink eyes from the locals as you paddle out.

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 11:29 AM

quote of the week: at LindyWindy this morning - two or three feet faces in front of the pumphouse. Old Fart One to Old Fart Two, with deep seriousness: "There's a lot of people shouldnt be out here today, man"

I check the surroundings. Nope, it's not low-tide G-land, not Pipe, not some remote ledging shallow death-reef. Just old Lindy. Wonder what's going on in the Brain of Old Fart One.

Decide to leave him and his deeply serious buddies to their intense Pumphouse Death-Pits. Paddle down to a peeling one-foot left and have a very good time on the Enormous Long-boat-board.

Posted by: J at May 18, 2005 11:29 AM

congrats on the upcoming nuptuals flap.

for all who don't know, flap was holding down ethans favorite surf street long before ob was crowded and pointed out many glassy peaks, reefs and points in san mateo and north santa cruz county to me on many surf hunts we made back in '97-'98 when i first got here.

as far as the brigade is concerned? flap goes 6'4" , 200 and some extra change so when he buries his rails at the hook the west side thinks it's raining and the heavy locals step the fuck to the side and say "what up flap"

Posted by: flap at May 18, 2005 11:30 AM

flap.... hit me at tjtuohy@gmaildotcom

Posted by: tom at May 18, 2005 11:31 AM

Anon, describe this "point" to me? Maybe I surf there occasionally.

Stink eye never hurts as long as you can surf and show due respect.

Posted by: Kaiser at May 18, 2005 11:33 AM

friend #1 - that's funny. Yeah, it was tough getting lined up. Erratica. If I had a dog, I'd have been better off walking it.

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 11:39 AM

hey flap,

when you bury rails at the hook, the buckets of spray would more likely fall south by Aptos, not the westside. also be careful if your below the cliff when heavy locals approach, the cliff could give way.


Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 18, 2005 11:39 AM

First of all I laugh
(Then what?)
Smash their ass like a goddamn carcrash
So if you wanna try your luck
C'mon...play pussy'n'get fucked
Ass-hole snicker and get beat
Your a bad motherfucker if you dare to compete
Cause Diana Ross be comin' at your ass fool
And have you singing the blues
To all now bicker and I'll pound
Let's go around
Imma take ya, shake ya
Then brake ya down
And if you kick Imma pick up a stick
And beat your ass to the size of your dick
And that's small
And you think you're mackin' when you're lackin?
Bushwick is packin!
I'll show your girl how a real man feels
Large things come in very small packages
And while your gettin' on your knees to fuck
A nigga like me's still standin' up
Any bitch will tell you:
As long as he got a big dick, size ain't shit

Posted by: YEAGH AREA RULES at May 18, 2005 11:40 AM

Surfed Pathetica last night, rode my hummming fish, wish I had the longboard, got stinkeye from the crew hanging on the wall. There are some really good dongers at Pathica.

Posted by: Mexi at May 18, 2005 11:44 AM

I think I encountered one of those guys at glassy lindy last night, although he wasn't an old fart. "next time paddle through the channel, quit f&*$ing people's waves up". dude, it's lindy... chill out. I watched him get into his jacked up truck with mud tires and roar off. respect and peace in the water. thanks for the great site e.

Posted by: dc at May 18, 2005 11:44 AM

So what do we think epoxy boards?

Surftech and NSP come to mind. (Bics strike me as pieces of crap, but maybe that's because I expect them to break and have ink leak all over my pocket.) Are they tough enough to not need a bag? Perhaps softops can get away without a bag? Philosophically, I prefer to support my local shaper, but is having one factory produced board in the quiver might be a necessary evil for those of us without cars to leave the bag in.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at May 18, 2005 11:44 AM

Nice shot Javier, I can't wait to get a housing, only need 5 bill more in the foto fund.

Posted by: Mexi at May 18, 2005 11:48 AM

Dennis I was on the phone around 5?, while watching this lone surfer cruising at warp 9. Must have been you!

Wickedly windy rain sesh on the 6'6" slingshot. Blatantly snaked on a niiiice wave, [ nearly got plowed ] moved to a different peak, total stranger on a huge lb says, " Hey just call out if you see a wave you want. " Two different worlds! Wish I was more competitive, maybe I'd get more rides, but maybe I'd suffer collisions too. I hear you Mexi, those alpha surfer games are no fun. Alas no better waves/timing for me, but shoutout to friendly longboarder!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 18, 2005 11:49 AM

set's of 7...thats what's so sick about flaps gouges....they defy gravity and all other physics.

recognize...

Posted by: tom at May 18, 2005 11:52 AM

so flap is like a human mystery spot......rad.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 18, 2005 11:56 AM

i also took the plunge yesterday afternoon at around 5:30. suck out sets were crushing. got three mediocre rides. i bet it got better later. the wind was gone last night. i woke up really early thinking it was a windless night to find my garbage can and all the garbage flying every which way. went back to bed.

Posted by: lerm at May 18, 2005 11:58 AM

Funny those people on the wall still vibe folks....thing is they're still on the wall in pacifica and always in the parking lot at OB while waves could be reeling. KOOKS will be out getting good waves and they will still be at the wall talking smack waiting for the "right time" and chicks that will never throw them a bone.

Bottom line is gapping from the wall or from the lot does wonders for your ego but nothing for your surfing. I for one will never go back to that wall until I can prove Tom wrong....hehe

Posted by: pez at May 18, 2005 12:02 PM

Yo Mexi, if you only need $5 more to get a housing, I'll give it to you-in cash!

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 12:03 PM

note their appears to be a different 'J' on the board. him capital J, me lower case. go figure.

Posted by: j at May 18, 2005 12:07 PM

500.00, the wife controls the $, we'd be broke if I had control. But I'll take the 5$ and make it 495$

Posted by: MEXI at May 18, 2005 12:09 PM

thanks for the sick photos and stories javier!

i want to see a slater/andy rematch..also if parko won it i would be happy just cause hes my favorite..ya

Posted by: bagel at May 18, 2005 12:09 PM

Surfed last night after work and scored some really GOOD waves. Sometimes, the search pays off! I scored well overhead glassiness, long rides, and a couple barrels. Few guys out. After about 7 or so waves, I got stuck inside for a punishing set, which sent me to the beach. Happy I scored what I had, I watched as more perfection rolling through. I couldn't take it, I wasn't going to listen to my friend saying that it improved after I got out. Sacked up, and paddled back out. Caught another thunderous right which exploded on top of me, sending to to the bottom in a whirlwind of water, swam back to the top, dizzy, took a few more on the head, sent packin' to the beach, arms spent. SHIT! One last paddle out. It was still workin', and I couldn't stand watching. Caught one last beauty before calling it a sesh. Man, I scored! Travelin' really pays sometimes.

Posted by: obsurfer at May 18, 2005 12:13 PM

took some pretty bad wipeouts trying to do the rolling drop in to the pool at the skate park. landed so hard one time i was wondering if they make ass pads. anyway, my body was hurting too bad to surf this morning. yes, i am a kook and a wimp, but sorry for the flakage s.s.

Posted by: steamwand at May 18, 2005 12:14 PM

SS - That was prolly me but closer to 5:30 I think.

Hey, what's up with the traffic light at Taraval and the GH. Long traffic lines as the friggin thing turns red every 20 seconds. I counted. I got home and complained to the DPT, Hope they fix it before I head home.

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 12:14 PM

how do you paddle in to chopes with beer in hand?

Posted by: steamwand at May 18, 2005 12:16 PM

Some guy was talking on his cell in the water last night... Give it a freakin rest...

Posted by: Mexi at May 18, 2005 12:18 PM

Posted by: john zorn fan at May 18, 2005 12:20 PM

Mexi, was he sitting on the wall earlier? HA!

Steamwand, he paddled into it with the tab in his mouth, stood up, grabbed it from his mouth and took a swig.

Posted by: Kaiser at May 18, 2005 12:21 PM

Huge Buckets?
A-Town credentials?

Flap-The Brigade will be at Winters looking to size you up.
The Brigade can always use a few 6'4"200lb. men!

Doing It Brigade Style

Posted by: johnnie at May 18, 2005 12:31 PM

did somebody say da fort?

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 12:39 PM

dc - lol! A channel at Pedro? C'mon! The guy was obviously delusional, that would've meant that the wave actually had shape! I'm always highly ammused when it gets tense and territorial at Pedro.
J - Classic! I've heard that at Pedro too, must be the same guy, there CAN'T be two of 'em. Good Lord, it's where you take your kids to teach'em to surf!
Don't forget surf flicks at the Victoria tomorrow night, horror short, "Nite of the Doggie Diner" premieres.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 18, 2005 12:40 PM

Mexi - you're on. Next time we meet in the water, I'll give it to you. I always carry cash in the water in case I need to bribe someone into letting me catch a wave. I thought Skiing was expensive!

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 12:40 PM

"Some guy was talking on his cell in the water last night... Give it a freakin rest..."
Posted by: Mexi on May 18, 2005 12:18 PM

Are you serious!? 'Cause if that's true, I have to shoot myself RIGHT NOW!

Posted by: Jimmie at May 18, 2005 12:47 PM

For reals Jimmie, guy on a Verner LB on the phone, doing more talking than surfing...,

Posted by: Mexi at May 18, 2005 01:08 PM

I heard Slater was talking on his cell while gettin barreled at chopes

Posted by: rza at May 18, 2005 01:27 PM

Mexi,

Do you have a Paypal address? If so, I would like to donate some cash to your camera housing fund. If we could get some of the other viewers of this blog (and by extension, your pics) to donate too, you could enriching our surf stoke experience much quicker.

Posted by: steve-o at May 18, 2005 01:38 PM

Should have said "be enriching"

Posted by: steve-o at May 18, 2005 01:40 PM

Was the cell phone guy at least using hands-free for safety ;-)

Posted by: steve-o at May 18, 2005 01:41 PM

Tom, check yourself...I mean your email...

Let's surffff!

Let the Brigade begin!

Posted by: flap at May 18, 2005 01:48 PM

19ft 13sec on the papa buoy!

Posted by: e at May 18, 2005 01:49 PM

J: the worst, most glaring stinkeye I've had bar none has been 2-3 foot Pedro, a la mid-elderly barracudas. My theory is a) apparantly people should emerge, venus-like from a seashell, instantly formed into ripping surfers, and b) if you're having too much fun, you're inadvertently ruining the wave warrior moments of a select few. This is never on purpose. I publicly apologize to everyone offended for enjoying myself and wrecking the image of 3 foot whomping seriousness ;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 18, 2005 01:50 PM

don't do it jimmie. that kook aint worth it.

using a cell phone while surfing seems sacrilegious to me.


Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 18, 2005 01:51 PM

Send the Brigade to Hawaii...

An early morning brawl on 5/16 at the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor resulted in the deaths of two men (one a prominent local surfer), critical injuries to two others, and the arrest of four assailants on murder charges.

One of the murder victims was long time Ala Moana Bowls local and HASA masters division competitor Kirk Hodges, the other was possibly the attacker responsible for his death.

Hodges, 50, came to aid of a friend who was involved in an altercation at 2:30am and wound up being attacked by a group of men armed with knifes. He suffered multiple stab wounds and died at the scene.

Hodges was a dominant presence at the Bowl and consistently placed in local and national contests. Police continue the search for numerous other suspects.

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 01:51 PM

mexi - OOOHHH, he was on a Verner ... well, THAT explains it (just kiddin'). Ya' shoulda SLAPPED IT OUTTA HIS HAND AND TOLD HIM THAT YOU FEARED FOR HIS IMMORTAL SOUL! O.K. - I'm not gonna kill myself ... yet.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 18, 2005 01:56 PM

sharkbait - Several years ago after our first trip to the South Pacific, where we surfed semi-serious headhigh+ reef breaks with bunches of laughing locals and good-natured, wise-cracking Kiwis, my son and I came home and went out at Pedro. It was about 2-3 foot on the face, there we were, leashless and giggling amongst the brooding buffaloes - they HATED us. Some of 'em probably still do.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 18, 2005 02:11 PM

Whoa, I'm not really surprised. Lindy has been getting crazier and crazier- hard to believe people can get so bent out of shape for such crap.

We need cell phone/ surfcam jammers installed at the beach rendering insta- surf reports obsolete. I would contribute to that fund!

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 02:15 PM

worse than the stinkeye is that fat chick that i've seen at lindy that tell people what they should be doing, yet she can't paddle into waves (and come to think of it probably can't stand up under her own power on dry land...)

re: slaters chopes/beer wave...ridiculous, but nowhere near as insane as the time i saw him taking beer bong hits while barrelled at pipe and fighting off two ninjas and a rogue polar bear.

Posted by: j at May 18, 2005 02:17 PM

Cell Phone in the line-up? What a pussy. I paddled out with a corded phone, a fax machine and network server on my shortboard. I had to. They got no cell reception in the Farallones. I had a couple sharks colating for me too. Stupid sharks never put the right cover on the TPS reports. Didn't they get the memo?

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at May 18, 2005 02:17 PM

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 02:23 PM

I saw that right at the Farallones going off on a flight to HI. last winter. Strong offshores blowing the top off the peeling lip for days - impressive. The paddle looked like a real bitch though.

Posted by: T.W. at May 18, 2005 02:36 PM

Someone makes waterproof cell phones? Cool! I don't know what you guys are bitching about - if I had a waterproof cell phone and Blackberry, I'd be outta the office and in the water in a heartbeat. Take a few calls, send a few emails - the boss would have NOTHING to whine about then! Well, knowing him, he probably would, but that's a whole different story...

Posted by: Office surfer at May 18, 2005 02:38 PM

Check out this idiot. The redneck surfer from Lindy.

http://www.extremefunnyhumor.com/mov_redneck.htm

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 02:42 PM

WHERE'S MY GUN!! WHERE'S MY GUN!!

Posted by: Jimmie at May 18, 2005 02:47 PM

I seem to recall how I was quite an un-niceness character when the dicussions focused on Lindy...

it must really be spring and the niceness crew must be ripping, slashing and getting shacked...hrmmmmm....funny how quickly us previous Lindy regulars begin dissin pacifica locals and tearnin shit up there as soon as summer arrives.....we need to check ourselves

Posted by: pez at May 18, 2005 03:00 PM

It's all in fun Pez. We don't chase them outta the water when they travel to OB. No stinkeye. On the other hand, I've only surfed Lindy about a dozen times so... ;)

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 03:07 PM

...and they sure surf tons better than I do!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 18, 2005 03:12 PM

if a guy is paddling through the "peak" and ruining peoples waves why does it matter where one is surfing?

and why did that guy end up as the bad guy for pointing it out to you?

maybe that guy has to do that for the benefit of everyone who surfs that busy beach and as a result has shortened his speech by dropping the "please and thank you"


Posted by: tom at May 18, 2005 03:13 PM

granted i was on my 9'8" log (takes up a bit of space), but I wasn't going through the peak. he was sharing a wave with a friend and not paying attention to where he was going. when he finally did look up, he nearly ran into me. Therefore, he felt it necessary to single me out in front of his crew. Sad, but he ripped it up on the waves, too bad he has such a crappy attitude. Atleast the waves were good... yes even at Lindy. The redneck surf video is awesome!

Posted by: dc at May 18, 2005 03:20 PM

If my memory serves me well, the peak at Lindy is about 3/4 of mile wide. Pretty difficult not to paddle out through the peak.

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 03:21 PM

have to agree with tom. don't really think you should be paddling in people's path. don't matter where you're surfing.
likewise though, if you are surfing at linda mar or somewhere like cowells you prolly ought to expect people to kook out and get in the way a bit.

Posted by: steamwand at May 18, 2005 03:21 PM

shoutout to niceness!

yeaaaaaah e, papa buoy looks sick! are we gonna get weather with those waves though? i hope not! blakestah's wind forecast looks sweet. last night was super glassy down here, Southie made it in.

when do you leave for baja?

cheers to the N.Pac's "exceeding" activity.
cheers to big Daddy Kaiser.
cheers to ck, on his way in a week? to Paradise, Earth.
cheers to 3to5... original WS local? let's get that reef session in soon. mebbe this weekend?

come visit, heads. More NW groundswell on Monday? Quieres surfear hasta 9pm? plenty o' time.

love to the lovers. even some to the haters.

Posted by: j.o.c at May 18, 2005 03:22 PM

Lindy is what it is. For some, it is the place they go and surf everyday. For some, it is where they learn to surf. For others, that is where they surf from time to time.

Either way, the wave is never really that good. But it serves it purpose and has its moments.

I surf there and I admit it. I have no problem with that. I take all the characters in stride and I make of mental note of when some "Lindy Local" peeps up. Next time I see them at the beach, I make sure that mental note is freshly placed in the front of my mind. Funny thing is, they never venture much further north then Sloat. I can't think of too many "Lindy Locals" that are out on slightly large days at the beach. At least I don't see many. The real locals down there are surfing Mavs anyway. And I wouldn't think they would label themselves as "Lindy Locals".

There are some really good surfings in Pacifica. Not all of them surf Lindy.

Posted by: Kaiser at May 18, 2005 03:26 PM

Any former heavy pot-heads (24-7) care to share any knowledge on how to deal with withdrawls and/or cravings with an aspiring quitter? or at least a guy who's trying to get it under control?

Posted by: addict at May 18, 2005 03:30 PM

na might help

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 03:31 PM

This is Dominic. He makes the best pizza in the universe.

He also likes to go surfing.

Posted by: pizza is love at May 18, 2005 03:34 PM

Don't own it.

If you have unlimited access, then slowly drop the number of times a day you smoke, to once per. Then try every other day, etc.

Posted by: friend #1 at May 18, 2005 03:41 PM

Anyone been able to access the videos on the asptour site of yesterday contest. they are supposedly posted but i can't seem to play them.

Posted by: traut at May 18, 2005 03:46 PM

My buddy smoked dope every day for decades. When he tried to quit he got vivid dreams. An ugly pit bull kept bending him over in his lucid dreams and giving him the business. The next day he'd smoke again, then try again in a few weeks. The pit bull would re-emerge in his dreams. Scary!

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 04:09 PM

I smoked daily for over 10 years and when I quit for a 6 month period, I went through a lot of weird psychotropic states. Even felt like I was totally speeded out to the point of precum discharge at one point. THC tends to block you ability to remember your dreams. I have pretty vivid dreams at that time, but that was also tied up in a lot of other heavy stuff that was going on in my life. That is why I had quit after all as I was trying to deal rather than retreat.

Anyhow, Cold Turkey is a very tough way to go. Pot is not physically addictive, but very much so psychologically.

About three days in, expect to be in a bad mood for seemingly no reason.

Posted by: friend #1 at May 18, 2005 04:31 PM

flap - your math is wrong

$1000 a minute since jesus is 1 trillion

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 04:36 PM

i've experienced the vivid dreams when laying off the ganja. Two nights ago, after taking a few days off the weed, i had a terrible dream about arriving in Baja without my board or camping equipment or money and scavenging around dry/dusty/hot baja with no money or gear. sucked.

that pit-bull dream sounds horrible!

thank god for lindy! OB would be a lot more crowded without it.

Fareed Haque can play some mean guitar.

Posted by: e at May 18, 2005 04:36 PM

I heard it on the radio this morning so I may be off. I suck at math, that's why I surf! But fark it's still alot of money!

Tom did you get my email?

Posted by: flap at May 18, 2005 04:45 PM

"Even felt like I was totally speeded out to the point of precum discharge at one point" Huh?

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 04:45 PM

"pizza is love" that surfboard design is radical! niiiiice!

pizza IS love!

Posted by: e at May 18, 2005 04:48 PM

hee hee...ninjas....polar bears...hee hee. this giggly over that post and i should be high.

school's great; please send waves.

Posted by: friendly at May 18, 2005 04:48 PM

Addict - As a former functioning addict I can tell you for certain, there's only one sure way to quit. Don't light up. Don't substitute pot for drink or any other drug. Deal with the depression by getting to the root of it. You may need to change your friends cuz you can't be with people that are getting high. Find something positive to invest in with your free time. Keep reminding yourself why you don't like being an addict.

Prolly most people react differently. For me: first couple months I was pumped that I quit. Then I would get depressed and start thinking about getting high often during my waking hours. That's when I needed to reinforce my conviction to quit. Then I was pumped that I didn't fold as I had so many times before at that point. Six months kinda regressed again but stayed strong. I did change my friends. Difficult but I had to do it to succeed. My life was on the line. I'm talking multiple addictions, not just pot.

Personally, I don't like NA or AA. They focus too much on looking to god for strength. Also, they whine too much. That's just me though. Some folks need that reinforcement... Fact of the matter is, all the strength is in you. Kick yourself in the ass and get over it.

True story. One of my good time buddies told me a few months after I cleaned up said, "I liked you better before you quit." I had to reply, "I liked you better when I was high."

I'm not posting my name because I wish to remain anonomous. Doh! I already posted my name. Cover is blown.

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 04:54 PM

do you like you better when you're high?

Posted by: confucius at May 18, 2005 05:01 PM

whaddup peeps. my trip to mainland mex was great - new swell was filling in at the end so i extended it by a day. started with a mellow day at pasquales and we wandered as far south as saladita. for some reason the spots down around there weren't showing much size and were too walled/sectiony despite a pretty meaty almost-due-south swell that arrived starting saturday - anyone know why that might be? swell angle? is it tide-sensitive down there? we were kinda baffled but made the most of it.

biggest sesh was monday at nexpa, a bit OH, some nice slabby walls. one dude was taking pole position on the outside & getting a bunch of rides, and i later noticed he was riding a sf surf shop board.

oddest sight was a dude killing it on a shortboard during a susnset session at saladita while wearing a banana hammock. by far the best surfer out there but everyone in the lineup was still snickering at him.

i didn't smoke while i was there and remember a few fairly vivid dreams. and i've noticed that before, has me intrigued. but the cause & effect does not seem that straightforward to me -- i think that i might have remembered the dreams because i was waking up more often during the night and i attribute that to camping and not being entirely comfortable on my thermarest and sore from surfing.

we camped every night right on the beach. i can think of no better alarm clock than the combo of early morning light, roosters crowing, thumping surf and clacking cobblestones as the ocean recedes.

Posted by: loon at May 18, 2005 05:07 PM

JOC, I am in your hood on Saturday. Gotta hit up O'Neill for some new rubber. Whatcha all about?

Posted by: Kaiser at May 18, 2005 05:07 PM

Thanks for the input niceness. This shit's a bitch as of now. Weeds one of the only things on my mind half the time now that im trying to quit or cut way back.

I told myself only on the weekends for now, but after my first day back at work Monday (after a weekend of smoking) I couldnt stop myself from rolling one up, though I was pretty proud of myself that i held off till 9:30pm. Tuesday proved to be even harder, ended up smoking around 8:30pm. Today is hard too, trying to hold off till i see Star Wars tomorrow.

I was forced to quit recently when I went on a trip out of the country with my girl. About 3 days into the trip I had a very vivid highly pornographic wet dream about having a 3-some with my girl and another hot chick, i actually liked that, and will use that as motivation to hold back for days at a time. Also, I havent smoked a ciggy in 4 weeks (used to be pack a day) and i am noticing the similarity's beetween the 2. I feel like i could almost debate what people say about how pot is only mentally addictive. Sometimes i feel either pot is physically addictive like ciggy's, or ciggy's are mentally addictive like pot. or visa versa or whatever. Any other words of wisdom are welcome. Thanks again.

Posted by: Addict at May 18, 2005 05:10 PM

And ya, fuck that orginized group NA AA shit. Thoug im sure it probably works for some

Posted by: Addict at May 18, 2005 05:13 PM

yeah, fuck it dude!
because clearly you are doing so well at controlling your addiction on your own!

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 05:33 PM

addict,

Umm....the reason why AA and NA work is because of the support system and the sharing of experience and the structure that the group offers as well as examples of others who quit and how their lives have dramatically changed for the better?

So what the fuck are you doing telling us about your problem? Maybe you are looking for support, sharing of experience and a few examples?

Maybe the drugs ain't your problem? But too bad there is no cure for ignorance.

I wish you luck in your "white knuckle" approach. Here at AA we laugh at you guys all the time, but we always save a seat and a cup of coffee. Come early if you want a cookie as those go quick.

See ya next week. 8 PM at Our Lady of Sorrows out in the sunset.

Posted by: Friend of Bill W at May 18, 2005 05:35 PM

Make no mistake. Pot is physically addictive. I'm mentally addicted to this blog. Evan Slater is talking about wipeouts on Maximum Exposure as I write. Cool wipeout shots too. Damn, it's over already. I NEED MORE.

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 05:40 PM

How I quit my daily 8x a day weed habit:

Found some new friends who push the shit out of me athleticly. I meet up with them 2-3 days a week. Three or so beers or a little smoke means I will likely get dropped by these overachievers.

I've found I've done better in other aspects of life from hanging with these guys. Everything except maybe writing fast that is. Moral of the story, drop your pot head buddies.

Posted by: ac at May 18, 2005 05:48 PM

Friend of Bill W, I guess my coffee is cold after 18 years. You can pour it out cuz I won't be needing it :^)

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 05:49 PM

Life is so much work. Maybe tomorrow we can write about girlfriends and wives and kids and waves and new boards and cars or new jobs?

Sorry, but life will never be as interesting as surfing. Even our addictions pale in comparison.

Posted by: at May 18, 2005 06:22 PM

i think the pot / dream thing is pretty confirmed... i interpret it as tied into thc's effects on the memory... long term memory creation / storage is tightly linked to your sleep & dreams... pot affects that. i definitely start remembering my dreams when not smoking pot.

pot is definitely a habitual thing, so try changing up your routine Addict. if you are used to coming home from work and puffing down, find something new to do when you come home from work. stay busy. join a gym / league... go out and do something so you don't sit at home wishing you were high. for me, the mental habit breaks down like this: smoking pot makes you feel good, for a while. so you choose to hit that euphoria up. when i'm trying not to puff, i think about how i will feel later, when i'm beat, or how I will also enjoy the feeling of not being high. the best two feelings I get from not smoking are being clearheaded at work and in my conversations, and a much more natural body high after surfing.

i've noticed when not smoking how many things i like to do when stoned. surf. guitar. movies. chill. hike. even sometimes having a stony job where puffing and work go together. find things you don't like to do stoned. not to be cheesy, but reading is kind of an anti-drug for me. i can love it, and i don't like it high, so it helps me choose not to puff.

one hard thing about quitting is that since pot makes you excited / stimulates your consciousness, I find sometimes I am less "stoked" on life without it. i feel okay, but i have less moments of bursting with positivity. i have never quit for more than a month or two, so i don't know if this goes away after 6 months or a year, but i suspect it might.

recent conversations on this board about herb have been insightful. at this point, i don't feel like i need to completely remove it from my life. I think it's possible to live well, happy, with love, while smoking some herb. At it's best, I find it can help ground you in feelings of the moment / inspire / connect to a certain spirituality that is beautiful. At it's worst, I think it's isolating, communication blocking, demotivating, lazy, and confusing for the brain. It's just all about the Balance.

~
unrelatedly, i think i'm in town this weekend Kaiser, let's chiiiiiiill. cell-io.

Posted by: j.o.c at May 18, 2005 06:24 PM

How to quit weed:
Stop buying it, stop smoking it. drink more booze.

Posted by: dsx at May 18, 2005 06:24 PM

I'd choose niceness over NA anyday. Thanks for the input Dennis and others. To the haters, keep on hatin', have a cookie, say a prayer for me, and while your at it, have some more coffee.

Posted by: Addict out at May 18, 2005 06:26 PM

On the other hand addict, Our Lady of Sorrows sounds like a fun place to hang out. Talk about depressing.

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 06:38 PM

Dennis Congratulations! We'll start sending out all of our toughest cases over to you. What type of case load do you think Friends of Dennis can handle?

Go ahead and hate on us. Maybe you just aren't really serious yet. It doesn't matter because it's really up to you, we just offer help.

Keep in mind there is a requirment to membership. All you need is a desire to stop drinking and/or drugging and your in. No one get's turned away.

INTERCOUNTY FELLOWSHIP
1821 SACRAMENTO ST.
SAN FRANCISCO CA 94109
415 674-1821
Fax: 415 674-1801
http://www.aasf.org

Posted by: Friend of Bill W at May 18, 2005 07:40 PM

THC inhibits REM sleep. REM sleep does a lot of important things in our lives. Our most emotionally charged vivid dreams occur in REM sleep. During THC withdraway, REM sleep is extra deep, and our brains are on fire.

AA and NA do not change probabilities of quitting. Only you can quit, should you choose to do so. Whether you believe you are strengthened by a higher power or not - it is all about you, and the cult will not help. Cults like AA and NA encourage sheep mentality for those who stay, which is not actually that many.

Posted by: the chemist at May 18, 2005 07:59 PM

SE PAPA 20@14
RIGHT ON

Posted by: toneman at May 18, 2005 08:14 PM

Gotta find a way to get friday off

Posted by: toneman at May 18, 2005 08:14 PM

Gotta find a way to get off friday

Posted by: toneman at May 18, 2005 08:16 PM

I don't hate on you Friend of W. You're first post was just a bit rude and hostile for someone trying to convince a person that your way is better. You still seem bitter.

I do however have a thing about religious organizations and making people feel they need to depend on god for strength. Kinda nausiating to me. But that's just me. As for AA, NA - been there and done that.

Also, you may notice I have no problem letting people know who I am when I post, regardless of controversy. And I know I'm not always right.

Better to sign up with Tony Robbins for inspiration I think.
9888 Carroll Centre Road
San Diego, Ca 92126
Telephone:
Toll Free 800-445-8183
Direct 858-535-9900

Posted by: Dennis at May 18, 2005 08:32 PM

A frame beach peaks at 10 secs sounds like paddle practice yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Posted by: toneman at May 18, 2005 08:33 PM

Right on Dennis You sound so like my old days buddy Dennis from big O
But we already been through that.

Posted by: toneman at May 18, 2005 08:36 PM

Dennis,

Congratulations on the 18 years. Keep it up any way you can.

Addict and anyone else, I wish you luck and urge you to go for it. It may be a long holdown and your leash may break with more waves coming.

Just relax and take it one wave at a time.

And don't be afraid to ask someone to help you paddle in.

But get on land and dry off. Think it over before heading back out, because the swell could be rising and the currents getting stronger.

Posted by: Friend of Bill W at May 18, 2005 09:38 PM

Easy now, I think I'm going to puke

Posted by: Mexi at May 18, 2005 10:13 PM

Look at this wave

The white part behind

The part ahead walled

and in the space in between where they meet

everything happens, forms

come to an explosion.

Patterns flowing

ripples on the seat of a couch

waves in a set stacking

folds in the hills of Davenport

ripples in the music of the universe.

Posted by: irie slave lizards at May 19, 2005 12:38 AM

Addict - don’t let Friend of Bill W. scare you off of a visit to a 12 Step Group, he does not represent AA, or anyone else except himself.

Dennis - Congrats on the 18 years. I say whatever works to help you stay clean is just fine with me. However, with all due respect, and I MEAN that, a lot of folks have a wrong impression of twelve step groups. Yeah, the ‘god’ word DOES get bandied about a lot in NA & AA. But both groups, especially NA, make a point of urging addicts to seek a power greater than themselves THAT WORKS FOR THEM, WHATEVER THAT MAY BE. It can be a traditional belief in a personified “God”, or simply the power one recovering addict helping another. What’s important is that it works for the individual.

Addict - I know of a meeting here in SF that is geared especially towards atheists and agnostics – it has been known as the FUCK NO meeting for many, many years – Sundays 2pm Haight Free Clinic. These addicts have found a way to help each other stay clean within the 12 Step process WITHOUT the belief in any sort of ‘god’ – check it out , it couldn’t hurt.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 19, 2005 07:13 AM

Addict - Correction, that meeting is on Monday 8pm & Saturday 2pm - 529 Clayton.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 19, 2005 09:12 AM

Good post Jimmie and I agree. I acknowleded in my first post on this topic that some people need that reinforcement from groups. Eric Clapton comes immediately to mind.

Posted by: Dennis at May 19, 2005 09:44 AM

Friend of W,

Your surfing analogy just pushed me into a 10 foot set of relapse! who's got a lighter?!?! HA, just kidding buddy thanks for the help, honestly. And thanks for the subliminal poetry slave lizard.

Thanks all you other guys too, very insightful.

Having religion forced down my throat for most of my childhood I pretty much know NA is not the place for me, even if religion isnt a factor. Orginazed support groups or any groups for that matter are not up my alley. Also after taking my once alchaholic brother to some AA meetings i kind of saw a bit of the deal. Im the biggest stoner of anyone I know and I only have myself to help me out if that is what I want to do. I dont like whining about my problems to people, i'd rather rant anonymously on this surf blog which has helped for me allready. Like I said, I like the weed I just dont want it to be one of the top 5 priority's in my day to day life.

surfing.

Posted by: One time return of Addict at May 19, 2005 10:06 AM

Vonzell got robbed!!

Posted by: bagel at May 19, 2005 10:14 AM

oh, i guess you guys like that white chick better, thats cool.

Posted by: bagel at May 19, 2005 11:37 AM

Yeah. Where all da white women?

Posted by: Dennis at May 19, 2005 11:46 AM

Who cares where they are?

I know what they be doing though...complaining about the asians, latina's and sisters and how they be snatching up us white men.

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