E's Surf Report

Travel....

or

Make money, put a smile on, go about your business and give a big fat "fuck you" to soceity....

or

Move to NZ and farm.....

Yes you should have gone for 2nd lot. I would have met you when I paddled out around 7. Some nice juice out there. Mostly smooth surface. Pitching thick lips. Solo again.

When in doubt ...

Don't know if Eisnstein included it in his theory of relativity but time definitely slow down in the barrel and speeds up as you get older.

After regretting not getting out yesterday a.m., made a quick paddle out at VFW this morning. Looked small from my window, but once on the shore I could see some good chunky waves would appear every so often. There were waves. They weren't great, but the longboard made the drop and the ride pretty exhilarating. Props to the gents surfing choppy windswell with style yesterday evening at Kelly's.

who out there loves their job? If so could you tell us what you do?

awesome bali bottom turn, great board graphics also....don't know anybody in the last 1/3 of their life that will tell me they wish they would have worked more during the first 2/3 .... surf, travel, write music, live a little

About that Bali board. . .

It looks fun and the surfer looks small in stature. Being an aging shortboarder and fish-rider, would anybody care to give me an idea on the type (speed egg?) and dimensions?

Danke,

Three grand essentials to happiness in this life are something to do, something to love and something to hope for. - Joseph Addison

Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever. - Gandhi

Man does not weave this web of life. He is merely a strand of it. Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself. - Chief Seattle

Those last two pictures are wonderful!

I'll quote my mom on the job topic, "the Best thing about work is leaving for the day"

But I'm pretty happy when I've done a good job as a teacher, and I feel super lousy when I've failed teaching students. I feel super crazy happy in June and scared in september.

I always remember a newspaper article I read when I was a kid. The paper interviewed this lady on her 100th birthday. They asked her if she had any wisdom to pass along or anything she wants to tell their younger readers. She said, "Don't take life so seriously."

My quote, "In the end, nothing matters."

what's up niceness peeps, as everyone was talking travel yesterday saw this deal someone may want to jump on

"As part of their new Caribbean & Central America Sale, US Airways is offering a fantastic fare to San Jose, Costa Rica from San Francisco for $269 roundtrip! Book by Monday, April 18 for travel seven days a week through May 31.

San Francisco to San Jose, Costa Rica .... $269"

i'd be on it if i didn't have a trip to hawaii comin' up in a week. hope someone gets to CR though!

i'm gonna guess that the bali board is a 7'6- 8'ish tri fin pintail. as someone who happily rides all kinds of boards i would be looking to ride a shortboard on that wave- if you are getting old, get a board with 10% more volume and 2" more length- that egg thing will not ride like you are accostomed to, surfauburn, you'll be getting into a whole new feeling.

kdalle - I guess I saw you take off on a wave around 8am if you were going solo. Looked like a 1.5 oh right that sectioned in front of you. Hope to do the DP tomorrow. This am had too amny pre-work chores.

This afternoon tide swing from 4:30 high to 9:00 low is only going to be about 1/2 foot!

I was planning a first-time Baja trip this year but need to postpone it. I'll be going to Japan and Maui instead. With the above average ocean temps, I hope to get some good southern swell action. I really want to get down to Mexico though.

I have friends that just came back from CR on the east coast after a 28 day stay. They opened an internet cafe while down there. It happened by chance, and by need apparently. A Columbian they met on the trip is a tech person that moved there recently. My friends are also techies with a web services business here. They met in a cafe and complained to each other about the slow connections and difficulty of trying to conduct business remotely. They decided to get a lawyer and form a corporation in CR. For about $10K, they will have a high-speed internet cafe. I hope it works.

In the end alot matters. It matters how you have treated fellow man and the earth. This planet would change quite quickly for the better if we could somehow get ourselves to believe and act on that fact. It does not sem so hard in concept, but in practice...

I checked the flights US Airway to CR and for the good price you get routed to Pittsburg or Cleveland or North Carolina en route to CR, all in all 15 hour flights and more. For a few bucks more I'd take the abuse of Taca and save 8 hours.

4LOS ****LOVES**** that Cowboy photograph!!!!!

WOW!

zuma stylie...

Nice MMW pic.

Here is a link to some jamband concert downloads and webcasts. http://web1.nugs.net/

Web,
So your telling me that...when the sun expands and boiles away the oceans and expands again and gobbles up Earth that it matters that I threw out an aluminum can in the forest in 1999 that was buried under 1,000 feet of new top soil when the oceans finally melted away?

I agree that we should be good to our fellow man and that I would feel bad if I wasn't a "good" human being, but "In the end, none of it matters!"

Excuse me for interrupting the souly, stoke-sharing,
high-fivin' occasional lite-porn circle of niceness
backrubs, but I couldn't help but notice this comment
the other day by your resident guru and wiseman:

Predicting the future is a tricky business...but at least our leaders are busy setting up US friendly puppet governments in the nations with the largest oil reserves. Saudi Arabia, check. Iraq, check. Iran.....

Posted by: blakestah on April 11, 2005 10:52 AM

Do you share this world view "checklist" of yours
with your child? Before bedtime, do you spin a warm
little tale about how nice it would be to live under a
'puppet government' that some far-off country had
installed so that its own people could all drive big
fuel-guzzling cars?

i found out last night that i need to be out of my apt the end of may - so if anybody knows of a nice 2 bdr place for rent june 1st in the city (preferably with garage and sunset area) for me and my lady, please email me at rich dot cave at gmail.

those pics make me want to go back to bali - some of the best surf i've ever had were overhead days out at ulu. i'm sooo jealous of tom.

Well, while the Bay is blowin' like a prostitute on New Year's, the outer reefs of the Arctic have been smoother than yogurt on fire pole...and the swell?...macking!...and Mav's Charging Charger?....fucking CHARGING IT!!! Just charged up from a little coastal point off a charging Zanzabarian charge fest...definitely demanded my most charging chargible elements of charge. Charged a macking ninety-four footer when the Tsunami hit! All in all a good ride...Went left, bottom turned, snapped the board from the Jupiter sized G's (first fiberglass flossing ever!!)...spap turn off the lip...22 foot air drop with a daffy-spread eagle-crotch grab...jumped the flipping Exxon Tanker, grabbed two flailing local African disease free cuties for an evening pillow fight, got two pandas hotter than a high schooler after a "panty shot", and scratched off two winning lotto tickets which I "paper-airplaned" to the chief of the local village for the salvage effort. All that, and condo sized barrel! CHARGE!! Caught it all on film, too. I'm charging 40 Quid for the photos, but you can get em on ebay (charge with Paypal, please.).
Anyway, finished up with the African lady goodness and got local with some breaching Humpbacks. Four days later, I'm trunking it with the Penguins, Polar Bears, and two horny Pandas, surfing glassy, clean, barrelling chest-highs. It's good to be charging chargable chargers when your the Mav's Charging Chargeness of Charge. Charge on!

do what you love

money come

My wife worked as a nurse/case manager in hospice and home care for many years. All the old folks said the same thing: they wish they had traveled more and taken better care of their teeth. Deep into middle-age, I wish I had spent less time "getting stoned and missing it." Nowadays, I'm trying to focus on my daily successes and build on them - they really do add up.

Hmmm....Hey "BVB was right", I think there's a possibility that B'stah was making a statement steeped in sarcasm. At least that was how I chose to take his comment.

Or, perhaps I misperceived in which case you're ever-so-right ....to be Mr. BVB was right. But no high five for you, .....I'm a little cranky today cuz I lost a deal!!!!

I think BVB and Blakestah should get in those rubber sumo outfits and some boxing gloves and have it out for our ammusment.....

I'll bring some chili and condiments which we can add into the mix.....cost co hot dogs too which we can whirl at them...

how bout it feellas lets take this word play into an all out barf and agro sausage fest!!!

Jimmie - you nailed it on the head. If I spent one tenth on travel that I blew, snorted, smoked, and drank, I'd have been able to write a book about roundaworld surf travel. I coulda had a real fine quiver.

I'm just recently (relative to my age) taking care of the things that truly make for quality of life. I even invested in my teeth!

I'm not crying about it. My life is pretty good. But it's a good thing to think about if you tend to invest more on altering your state than traveling and fixing your teeth.

Sam, I guess my point is that what is in your control matters. ie, hitler mattered to a lot of Jews. They did not worry about the sun boiling over in Aushwitz (sp) extreme example,I know.

Our children will feel the effect of our actions. That is fact.

I get your point and agree with you that ULTIMATELY in the end it will not matter. But I REALLY care what my daughters life will be like TOMORROW.

Pick p that can Sam!

thats a nice shot of zuma hb..

pack your trash SAM!
how you get to the end, that matters.

e, feeling you buddy. it's tough for me spending time in the rat race surrounded by people who don't relate. any better at the sierra club?

mexi inspired me a while back with his stories of travel and overall posi-vibe to pursue teaching.

I don't think sarcasm is part of the curriculum in California. It was replaced long ago with the self righteous utopian diatribe.

Work is for people who dont surf

Making money is easy

For some time I've been hunting the wiley Kaiserstah with my camera. I finally nabbed the little varmit, but I don't think I got around to posting the organic results.

Today is the first day of the rest of your life

nice one kais-czar..that seems to be a good left breaker..

grabbed two flailing local African disease free cuties for an evening pillow fight, got two pandas hotter than a high schooler after a "panty shot", and scratched off two winning lotto tickets which I "paper-airplaned" to the chief of the local village for the salvage effort.
-MCC

i like my job...i dont know if i could say i LOVE it but i cant complain well i could but i wont right now..

Charging Charger, solid post as usual. Great take. Too bad you didn't nab the 100 footer.

"The free bird leaps
on the back of the win
and floats downstream
till the current ends
and dips his wings
in the orange sun rays
and dares to claim the sky.

But a bird that stalks
down his narrow cage
can seldom see through
his bars of rage
his wings are clipped and
his feet are tied
so he opens his throat to sing.

The caged bird sings
with fearful trill
of the things unknown
but longed for still
and is tune is heard
on the distant hillfor the caged bird
sings of freedom

The free bird thinks of another breeze
an the trade winds soft through the sighing trees
and the fat worms waiting on a dawn-bright lawn
and he names the sky his own.

But a caged bird stands on the grave of dreams
his shadow shouts on a nightmare scream
his wings are clipped and his feet are tied
so he opens his throat to sing

The caged bird sings
with a fearful trill
of things unknown
but longed for still
and his tune is heard
on the distant hill
for the caged bird
sings of freedom."

FREEDOM!

friends - yes
family - yes
money - yes
roof over my head - yes
girlfriend - yes
surfer - yes
travel often - yes

my life is better than 95% of the people in this world. i am fortunate and grateful.

Ironic, the subject of life on the blog today. I'm heading out to Louisiana to put a very close friend in the ground. She was only 35, just got married last year, and had a baby in Jan. She passed away, and her baby lived in a fatal car accident. In Buddhism they say that when the life of a young person is taken, it is to remind the rest of us of our impermanence. Any spin on this, and the meaning of life???

Despite how he somtimes may have expressed himself on this here board, or how he may behave toward some people in the lineup - I hear that, in person, BVB is really a nice guy / humble and self-effacing. Anybody old enough to remember the old Disney cartoon where Goofy changes from a mild-mannered workadaddy whimp into a salivating, raging maniac when he gets behind the wheel of his car? Not that I think BVB is a whimp or a cartoon - he's waaaay more interesting and insightful. I miss him. But, which "BVB was right"? I agree with Jack: I think our favorite surfcentric meteorologist had his tongue firmly in cheek yesterday.

BTW, Dennis - I wasn't even thinkin' of all the MONEY I wasted back in the bad ol' days - ah Jeeze, what a pathetic bonehead I was!

But isnt wasting money on drugs living life too?

obsurfer- our sympathies. What a drag. This year I lost a good friend/coworker to cancer at age 41. Sad but true how we don't appreciate life until one is taken away. And a few months later we're starring again in our daily soap opera of pseudo-important projects and self-imposed stress.

couple comments -- E, I went through a similar 1/3 life crisis episode, and asked myself what work would I do if I didn't need money and just did it for fun. The answer for me -- teaching. Ask yourself the same Q and see what you get.

As far as that Bali board goes (sequence), it looks like a mid 7' thruster egg shape -- pretty poor choice of equipment for that day. If you are interested in getting more foam under your feet, go for it. I would recommend going thicker (1/4 - 1/2") and wider (1") than what you're normally on, and go from there. Keep the length the same, or drop it an inch. Funboards like the one above are semi-fun but don't really excel in anything. Terrible in hollow surf, not as good as a log in small waves, slower and more rail line than a fish in mush, and less glide than a single fin. Pieces of shit, really.

I remember an old tape I had from one of the Acid Tests - Bob Weir says,
"Give that man a microphone!"
Then you hear Neil Cassidy in mid-rant,
"... just like Anthony Quinn, half Mexican, half Irish ... But I'll be dead a thousand years, see, so I better do RIGHT NOW, RIGHT IN IT ..."
Apropos of what? I don't know. Just seems apropriate for today. Well that's enough outta ME.

inquiring mind - no.

awesome, insightful comments today! damn! y'all rule!

yeah.. high school history teacher would be cool. could i afford to feed myself?

bird - sierra club is pretty rad. My job is farkin' cool so i shouldn't complain. I'm just having a tough time staring at the monitor for 8 hours strait everyday. day after day. week after week. monitor glow. If i loved programming i'd be all set right where i am.

peace out

DAMMIT! Cause if it was i would be Richard Branson.

You know, the rebel billionare!

Can you believe that guy riding that piece of shit right into the barrel? What a loser. I need to check to make sure the board I am riding is OK with the rest of the surf crowd. I may be 1/4" off in my dimensions.

E's life questioning hits me whenever the seasons change. This time around it got me to open up a retirement account, so I can stop working for the man one of these days. I take marginal satisfaction in my job. This morning I found myself in a meeting with USCG and ship captains and I felt a tinge of pride that my work revolves around the sea. Considering most people I went to school with ended up in Houston, I can't complain about being in the East Bay. It's not love, but I've got a functional relationship with my job.

I also realized the summer surf requires a longboard, which will suck to take on BART. Anyone with handy recommendations on ways to bicycle a longbard, I'd like to hear it. (I hold my 7' under my arm on my bike.)

yeah.. i like that guy's (in the sequence) style. I love when people do that check-turn to pause themselves back in the barrel. That shit is stylie!

Kaiser and Bruce-Juice - sick pic! that wave looks to be throwing out nicely.. remember what happened on that ride?

andrew - maybe just ride a fish for the summer?

that guy on the funboard surfs better than 98% of the people posting on this blog i'd bet.

if you can really surf, what board you ride is extraneous.

As for drugs and living life...there is plenty of time for doing drugs when you are old. I just visited my grandfather in an old age home, which is essentially a crack-house sponsored by Pfizer. No one has any money and they all just sit around doing nothing but take drugs all day.

E...Fish is a good idea, but I'd need one that isn't too wide and kinda thick, as I think my hand-armpit underarm dimension seems to top out at 19" boards.

3to5- Dead on.

WSP Summerdates have now been posted!!! http://www.widespreadpanic.com/ontour/tourdates/

Thanks for the link Traut.

Got 5/1/99 blaring at work right now. Have fond memories of that run. NOLA as it should be, dirty, nasty, and in your face.

Getting amped to be waiting in line at Radio City Music Hall this time tomorrow.

Yeah Traut, sick dates this summer. I recommend the Caesers shows. Went to one of those a few years ago, great small venue, booze flowing, easy security, and you can go out and gamble, lose money, and go back into the show.

I am going Red Rocks > Caesers (if I can swing it) > Greek

The Gorge is hella nasty too, way out there. Killer spot in WA. I went to the first Phish run there, it was insane. Divided Sky during sunset. Heady.

Bird,
good to hear, some of the best things about teaching is how much you learn doing it, the impact that can be made, the look on a kids face when they "get it", and those freakin Vacations!!

As for the drug thing, last week I said that the 7th grader who was smoking dope everyday had wasted their life, that was harsh, I know, "wasting" is a strong word, but kids should not do drugs. As for adults, there is a time and place for them. My time and place is in two hours in my backyard.

I wish I was getting barrelled on a funboard right now.

me too

google rules and ob looks fun this day

http://maps.google.com/maps?spn=52.119140625,76.552734375&t=k&hl=en

Word Kookdom. Ceasers is on my B-day. Will be there for sure. No Red Rocks for me though. Hopefully next year followed by some downhilling just like the good ole days.

BTW- Korewin has hooked me up with a live version of Genesis which we intend on incorporating into wedding!! Yes, I will Panic at the wedding - thank you very much!!

first time poster...

I went out on my own three years ago...bathymetric surveying and oceanogrpahy biz..two kids...work is slow right now...sort of freaking...but then again not...sometimes happy...sometimes not...overall love what I am doing (despit working like a dog, here in the most expensive county in the nation)

ohh. and *trying* to surf as much as possible

right now it's all about the kids

me too, mexi. it's been that kind of day.

Good one bagel. I can see my house at 100% zoom in.

I wish I had a backyard

I have never had a problem with illicit drugs other than loosing some sleep and talking too much...oh there was the 1st time heron incident but I survived....the real problems I have had and still have in life all relate to my Alcohol abuse/use.....if weed were legal I dont think I would drink as much..I am trying to quit but like a smoker I quit and then go back...

I wish things were in reverse and booze were illegal and buds were at every corner store...

Surfed this morning. Good fun communing with Neptune, it nearly always is. Had an up close encounter with a harbour seal, saw a big container ship go in the Gate in a beautiful morning light, very soothing.

for e's little hypothetical mini crisis, keep in mind what you want to accomplish...truly amazing things can be accomplished over decades if one is focussed, and diligent. Or you can decide to let it slide. Only you get to choose. With a little more age you can look back on the last decade, or two, or three, and marvel at the change, or lack thereof, in your life and in the things you care about. A mighty mountain may be moved one pebble at a time, but only with diligence, forethought, and planning.

Do whatcha like is what I say. Everything in moderation, don't overindulge in anything other then surfing, and buy a new board when you get bored with the ones you have.

Bruce, great pic. You make me and that wave look good. well, maybe not good but respectable. That morning was super soft out and the waves felt like head high at best!

Nice on the Genesis Traut. My wife and I used it for a lot of our wedding too. Funny side note on that is when they went to announce the wife and I for the reception entrance, we had the track listing wrong for the band/dj. We used the saturday 2001 greek show and wanted to use "Stir It Up" for our entrance but they messed up and it was "Pusherman!" Bass line actually worked good though and nobody noticed thank god.

*Genesis was written by Jorma and it is about his wife wanting to Divorce him. I know, kind of a bummer, but it is still a love song in my opinion and a great one at that! Definitely use it, it's a great song.

Red Rocks is the shit.

I decided to reach outside OB, at my block, every single month for one year. It's the principle of the thing. As a result my "surfing" is heinous. The seconds I've spent underwater would probably add up to a full 24 hour day. But it's April again, I've made the paddle for 12 months, and most importantly, what I've learned is....I've learned...learned....uhhhhm...

Spreadnecks Unite!

SS - What you've learned is you can do it! I have no idea what that means though, sorry.

Hey first time - any chance you used to work in Menlo? USGS?

The Game: http://surfline.com/video/vids/2005/apr/jsps/thegame01_dl_qt.cfm

still don't know if i like it, pretty boring footage but whatever.

guess i am just bitter that the Hb Bombers didn't make the cut.

nice one sharkbait.

blakestah droppin' heavy bombs.
But what about "effortless prosperity" 'stah??

Andrew on 57th,

Find someone in SF (preferably within a few blocks of the beach) who can store your board for you. You just cruise over and pick it up when need to surf. Pay them in pizza/beer or cash if necessary.

Just before dusk, March of 2004.

How I wasted my time during college.

Thanks for the surfboard input. The dude is having way more fun surfing than I have seen recently- crap! I think a new fish for summer is the way to go for me.

First, I have to put to rest my snowboarding jones. Sugar bowl corn for the rest of the week. Yum!

Costa Rica trip, March 2005. Not quite epic, but a heap of fun, glassy waves in warm water. Love surfing in trunks!

What happens if everyone aims for "effortless prosperity?" Obviously not possible. It takes work to achieve food and shelter and the many other things of value in life. Is it a good goal to try to get those things with less time and effort? The time and effort could be invested in making the world a better place. In creating food and/or shelter and/or other things in life. I could never be a stock trader. You take pieces of paper and shuffle them around and achieve abstract value (money) that can be used to buy things of actual material value. And the prosperity is nearly effortless.

Now, I am not saying that I think all stock traders should be shot. Just that I choose for myself to work on things more tangibly related to making the world a better place. The stock traders can have their more effortless prosperity.

nice one stah.. I guess the internet doesn't convey sarcasm. I was totally joking about "effortless prosperity" thing. I see that on bumper stickers from time to time, "I wish you effortless prosperity." but i totally agree with your ethic. the fulfillment that comes from true labor.

"Rotating fins will make the world a better place"

AS - great photos, as usual.

hmmm, sunny day at the beach

I doubt rotating fins will make the world a better place. But they make surfing more fun for me and a few others that use them....today I rode a thruster with two rail fin RFS boxes. The boxes are about the size and weight of 2 FCS plugs - all design criteria were minimizing design size and weight while maintaining adequate strength. It was pretty fun...in some ways riding a board you've highly customized, or even made, is fulfilling at a level that other surfing is not.

web, my comments on the fun shape were about the board, not the surfer. Obviously the guy is good, as he can get that piece of shit into the pocket.

Did I say you need to "OK" your board with me or anyone else who surfs? No. I don't care what you ride. I was just giving my 2 cents on that particular design as someone who has been surfing longer than you, better than you, and on more boards than you.

You have to admit there are better design options than a funboard at Ulu's or Ocean Beach for that matter.

Yoda, I actually dont surf. I just like to hang out with surfers, I think it is really cool. So I would hope you surf better than me. I cant even stand up.

Anyone up for some longskating tonight starting at 6:30? trautster@hotmail.com

Lucky people become rich. But, it takes a lot of hard work to be lucky.....

Stock brokers do a bit more work then some would tend to believe. Just because you "don't have something to show" as a result of your work doesn't necessarily mean you are "working effortlessly". There are a lot of poor traders in this world. There are some rich ones too.

I've traded muni bonds, I worked in a lab and worn a white coat, I've sat behind a computer, I've made video games, I've even bagged groceries....Work is work, just be happy doing something you enjoy!

Fear leads to anger. Anger leads to hate. Hate leads to suffering.

A story on properity, be it measured in dollars or contentment:

An American businessman was at a pier in a small coastal Mexican village when a small boat with just one fisherman docked. Inside the small boat were several large yellow-fin tuna. The American complimented the Mexican on the quality of his fish and asked how long it took to catch them.

The Mexican replied only a little while.

The American then asked why didn't he stay out longer and catch more fish?

The Mexican said he had enough to support his family's immediate needs. The American then asked the Mexican how he spent the rest of his time.

The Mexican fisherman said, "I sleep late, fish a little, play with my children, take siesta with my wife, Maria, stroll into the village each evening where I sip wine and play guitar with my amigos. I have a full and busy life, senor."

The American scoffed, "I am a Harvard MBA and could help you. You should spend more time fishing and, with the proceeds, buy a bigger boat. With the proceeds from the bigger boat, you could buy several boats, eventually you would have a fleet of fishing boats. Instead of selling your catch to a middleman you would sell directly to the processor, eventually opening your own cannery. You would control the product, processing and distribution.

"You would need to leave this small coastal fishing village and move to Mexico City, then LA and eventually NYC where you will run your expanding enterprise."

The Mexican fisherman asked, "But senor, how long will this all take?"

The American replied, "15-20 years."

"But what then, senor?" asked the Mexican.

The American laughed, and said, "That's the best part! When the time is right, you would announce an IPO and sell your company stock to the public. You’ll become very rich, you would make millions!"

"Millions, senor?" replied the Mexican. "Then what?"

The American said, "Then you would retire. Move to a small coastal fishing village where you would sleep late, fish a little, play with your kids, take siesta with your wife, stroll to the village in the evenings where you could sip wine and play your guitar with your amigos."

great story Andrew. it reminds me of something i went through...

about 5 years ago, i had a job with the potential to make millions in a relatively short period of time. each morning when i put on my suit and straightened my tie, i would look at myself in the mirror, think about the day ahead of me, and cringe. there was not one thing about my job that i enjoyed. it also went against all of my values and beliefs. but i pushed forward, thinking that if i could make it through 5 years i could retire and spend the rest of my life enjoying what i really loved. but eventually the job affected my health and i begin to suffer. so i quit and happily returned to sf and started enjoying each day to the fullest, without worrying about the future, or any of the trappings that a complicated life brings.

long live the fisherman!!

Andrew,
I've always loved that story.

I guess we are going thru that deep introspection that comes hand in hand with no surf. When the waves are good who has time for such musings? We are so satiated with the flow of the ocean that we rarely question our existance until we realize that we now face months of blown out sloppy crap. It forces us to face our lives without the opiate that is surfing. Those of us who are lucky travel, allowing ourselves one more fix but eventually even the travellers must face the questions you are now pondering E, we all do , even if we lead successful lives by the standards of others. Pathos and pondering are natural, healthy and integral to our growth. ...but I sure with there was some good surf so I could stop thinking about what it all means!! Just a day or two!

dp tomorrow there will be good surf because i said so

but I thought it said in your interview that you surfed web? I thought you would become a promising jedi someday. shame. well, it is never too late to start! Look at me -- I am centuries old. I am yoda.

On one Baja trip, we camped next to a coupla Sam's club guys who were cool, caught many fish, and had us over for a few meals. As they were leaving, we mentioned we were still heading south, and one of them gave me a book to give to their friend Michael. He was an ex-pat living at our next stop.

We drive to the next stop, surf looks OK close to sunset, then the chubasco cleared the tip of Baja and it was 15 ft+ the next day, non-stop, unsurfable. I went to find Michael.

He was living there with his family in typical Mexican fishing village digs, and was somewhat interrupted from his daily routine by my presence. I gave him the book and told him his buddies said hi. He apparently left the US, stopped surfing, and dove for oysters. Each day with calm enough weather he swam 200 yards offshore and free-dove 30 ft repeatedly to harvest oysters. His total work tools consisted of an inner tube with a net over it, a grappling hook anchor for the tube, a mask and snorkel, and a knife to pry oysters off the reef. He worked a few hours every morning, then the oysters hopped on the village trip to La Paz, and food and other goods and money came back from La Paz. On the day of the hurricane the boats couldn't go out, so all the fishermen hung out and played checkers all day.

Michael couldn't imagine going back to the US.

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great discussion today re: work, jobs, life.

I think some scholars put Christ at age 33 when he was crucified. For myself, that was my crucifixion year. Definitely the toughest. Perhaps E is going through the same. Perhaps not.

As for the meaning of life: A monk asked this of a Master, and the reply was "Eat your rice". After the meal again the question and the answer was "Clean your bowl."

Surfing is no opiate as Antman Suggests. It forces you to eat your rice and clean your bowl.

The meaning of life is only living.

Since we all die, "in the end, nothing matters" as Surfing Sam said.

However, the end is not worth worrying about as long as we are fully entrenched in the means.

It Is.

Focus not on the It but on the Is.

Sharkbait- the important thing is the learning, not putting a name on what it was you learned.

Schroedinger felt that a thing known was of little value if you could not communicate it to anyone else.

I don't share that opinion.

Everything is as it should be.

Friend #1 nailed it. It's the journey not the destination.

Haha.. Andrew, that was a good story, I guess others have heard it too, but I haven't.

Waves have been cooking again. Surfed Serangan on the "other side" as the winds were "wrong" but there were 10 foot faces with straight offshr\ores for 2 days there. They also call it Turtle Island, it was crowded but I was able to get "heaps" of waves for some reason. Rizal Tanjung was out and a bunch of other ripping locals.

Last two days we have been back at glassy Uluwatu where the surf has been coming consistently overhead to double. Met 2 dudes from SF and one got a fucking late bombing throwing thick nastiness as his friend and I hooted. Both of the dudes surf well.

The pics you posted above show this 16 year old Aussie (black shirt)who has been killing the place I've surfed with him and his buddies every day and the guy in the red trunks has been surfing bali for 30 years and is a ghost shaper for mctavish in Oz. He likes the Bintang too.

Dude on bottom in black shorts I drink Bintangs with daily as well in the Warungs. Also older and a good surfer.

Another photo co. has got some shots of me on the peak and i will try and get them loaded.....we have more overhead swell and good winds forecasted.

Someone wrote VFW and another wrote 2nd lot. The crowds will come! Permanent searchable archive! The sky is falling!

jeeesus tom..thanks for the update..you might be more stoked than me right now.

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