again stormy and wild
Not much to cheer about in surf-land today. Crazy, tumultuous victory at sea conditions. Fabulous morning to sleep in.
Read a few heavy books recently.
"Roots," by Alex Haley traces the story of an African boy who grows up in a traditional rural village in the Gambia, West Africa. For 300 pages you read about the proud, stoic, beautiful ways of his people, the Mandinkas. Boyhood lessons with his father. Herding goats with his friends. Manhood training with the village elders. Listening to travelling griotes speak from memory of generations and generations of ancestors dating back to ancient Mali. Things are going good for Kunte Kinte until one day in his early teens he goes out searching in the forest for a good tree-limb from which to carve out a drum. Stories of slave-traders and foul-smelling "toubob" (white men) had circulated through the villages for years. Kunta had heard of people being snatched and stolen. But he didn't think it would happen to him. Next thing he knows he's being ambushed and captured by 4 men, three large africans and a white man. He's chained up and dragged for miles back to a slave port. Whipped, branded, shaved and greased, he's then dragged into a cramped and putrid slave boat. The story gruesomely relates the 5 month voyage across the Atlantic. Chained to a row of other stolen Africans. Lying in wooden shelves in the dark, covered in their own shit, vomit and fear. People dying around them. Brought to the surface of the boat once in a while to be sprayed down. Plotting death to all slave-traders. Living in a nightmare. Hallucinating. Stolen. Ripped from life. No knowledge of where they're going. Stories of a huge white devil in some strange land that devoures all Africans. Eventually landing in Annapolis. Sold at a slave auction. Chained and brought back to the plantation. Attempts at escape result in the chopping off of half his foot. Sold to another plantation owner. Revultion at the other slaves for being ignorant of their African Roots. Eventual gut-wrenching acceptance of being "owned." Kunte marries and has a child. Child grows up and eventually tries to help her lover escape to the North. The plan is foiled and Kunte's daughter gets sold to a "po white cracker massa" who rapes and beats her. She eventually bares a mulatto baby to that master. etc. the story goes on through the generations until the birth of Alex Haley himself.
Heavy heavy heavy story. Riveting and painful. What humans have done in the past and continue to do today is horrifying.
humans.
The other book is "The Kite Runner" by Khaled Hosseini. Tons of people recommended this book. I had no idea how powerful and disturbing it would be. Told in the first person. A young Afghan boy grows up in a wealthy house. His servant and the servant's child are Hazara, Sh'ia muslims regarded as second class citezens. The narrator and child of his servant grow up best friends. They compete in the kite-fighting and kite-running competitions in Kabul. Until one day the narrator watches his friend get raped by a group of older boys let by a Hitler-loving sociapath named Assef. The narrator feels ashamed that he didn't help his Sh'ia companion. He lives with the guilt and remorse for years. The Russians invade Afghanistan and the narrator and his father escape to America. The story then describes the life of transplanted Afghani refugees in Fremont. For lack of a more apt description, Gnarly shit goes down. Check this book out.
anyway!!!
Jim Shaw sent some more fabulous photos along with this note:
The pier at Kelly's was a prominent feature. It was a landmark, you surfed the north side or the south side. That's Tambi Tavasieff shooting the pier bare skin. It was that or VFW. Lincoln Ave was rarely surfed, Moraga Pacheco Taraval even more rarely. Sloat was for those who feared the Kelly's gang and in particular the 'Power Squadron'. Truth be told, everyone was welcome anywhere, just beware of Gary Kingma and Bobby Truelove. Only altercations were on big peaky days with a narrow take off, but we all know most SF peaks are all over the place, so not much problem there.Here's some old pier shots and a couple of lovely Ticas.


http://surfingthemag.com/magfeatures/kainoa_mcgee/
Very interesting challenge. Wonder if anyone in the standup world will take this up. Impressive for someone to take both forms of wave riding to the upper competitive limits. Shows more that no matter what vehicle you ride, none is lesser. Just a different artistic expression for the same feeling.
Posted by: we are all the same at March 23, 2005 10:11 AMthat top photo is the best ob shot ever! man, i wouldnt want to mess with bobby truelove either..thanks for the history lesson jim shaw..
Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2005 10:19 AMSome cool Puerto Rico pics!

Posted by: WickedQuiver at March 23, 2005 10:29 AMWhatever he can do riding waves, he sounds in that interview like a complete moron and asshole; amply confirming the impression of that video in which he beats up a surfer in front of a huge crowd (that's mcgee, right?).
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 10:29 AMSweet OB shots- I bet the Tica's are straight out of the Hotel Del Rey though!
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 10:37 AMBells yesterday

Posted by: e at March 23, 2005 10:38 AMYou wonder if anyone in the standup world will take that up? The answer is no, no one will.
Posted by: easy at March 23, 2005 10:39 AMthat was a pretty stupid place to build a pier.
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 10:41 AMHe took out that surfer because he refused to leave during a bodyboarding contest at pipe. The surfer told him and Dave K to fuck off and that spongers don’t belong in the water. I don’t think Kainoa was the asshole in that instance. In fact a stand up surfer on the beach further regulated that individual after the surfer told him to fuck off and why was he siding with spongers
Posted by: we are all the same at March 23, 2005 10:42 AMI think the guy that beat his ass was Kaiborg, not McGee.
Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2005 10:45 AMI think Kala Alexander actually did the beach beating. Had the Texan surfer down on his back and was whipping him with his elbows. Brutal! There's a video of it floating around the internet. McGee and the Texan squared off in the water when McGee tried to ask him to leave the contest area. When the Texan got to the beach Kala attacked him. But i think the texan was actually egging kala on.
Posted by: e at March 23, 2005 10:48 AMhttp://www.surfermag.com/magazine/archivedissues/hotseat_kaninoa/index.html
Now who is the a-hole in this interview. Why cant everyone just accept that people pick and choose their wave riding vehicle to whatever gives them the most stoke.
This Chris guy is just trying to bait k-man to say that bodyboarders are lesser. And I hope people take the challenge up because as a dual rider I have learned to respect all individuals choice.
Posted by: we are all the same at March 23, 2005 10:50 AMThere was also (among many places) a pier (chute) at Tunitas and Ano. I would think that the Tunitas structure could be considered as "stupid" and in fact was considered so by many at the time
Posted by: web at March 23, 2005 10:54 AMi heard some visiting navy seal dropped two surfers at sloat about 3 weeks ago.
they talked, he promised he would wait on land, then made good.
Posted by: tom at March 23, 2005 10:56 AMSweet pics again.. a real treat.
Here is a pic from that magic Weds in Sc a couple weeks back. The black and whites are still coming...

Posted by: Mexi at March 23, 2005 10:57 AMcan relate to Kainoa, rode skis all my life. not "bored" with skiing as he suggests happened with respect to the body board, but definitely apprecaite the challenge of learning and attempting to master the snowboard.
Posted by: mig at March 23, 2005 10:58 AMthere are other clips in surf vids that show more of the arrogance (comments) that Texan had.
Posted by: we are all the same at March 23, 2005 11:00 AMthose photos ROCK!
history is great. love seeing the place look so
different but the same....i work with a guy here
at usf who grew up in the outer richmond; he is
70 now. he lived at 25th or so when that was nearly
the end of the city....all sand dunes west. "for miles",
as he put it. he and his friends as kids would just take
off and spend the whole day in the dunes and never
see a soul.
imagine how all that sand affected the sand bars....
like that shot of cape st. francis in endless summer 2
vs. endless summer......hmmmm.
mind surfing is the only kind available today it seems....
oh well. CR in may for me! so STOKED. got a good fare
thanks to all (mexi, et al.) with your advice.
cheers.
feeling a need for a mavs charging charger post....
Posted by: korewin at March 23, 2005 11:12 AMoh yeah, GO WOLFPACK!! hoping for a carolina vs. ncsu
sunday game to go to the final four. HOLY SHIT that would
be DOPE.
E, I really enjoyed that Kite Runner book... Read it in Namibia last summer.
Also enjoyed the Elphants book you recomended last month...
Posted by: Mexi at March 23, 2005 11:14 AMJim, Great fotos from the archives. If anyone else has some others, start loading em. Some pictures of Playland would be a mindblower to those that weren't even born then.
Posted by: rocky at March 23, 2005 11:29 AMheh, hotel del ray
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 11:32 AMSo whats harder? Going from boogie to stand up? Or stand up to boogie?
Posted by: inquiring mind at March 23, 2005 11:34 AMI heard the structures at Tunitias and Ano where primarily used by opium and alcohol smugglers.
SC county had known opium dens/brothels in the un-incorporated areas. aahhh the wild west.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 23, 2005 11:36 AMVirtually every standup was once a booger. Few boogers have achieved any level of success standing up.
Posted by: Stand up snob at March 23, 2005 11:42 AMnever boogied.
i love the night life, i like to party, i like to disco.
Posted by: tom at March 23, 2005 11:44 AMi just never boogied.
thats my story..boogied first, never too seriously though a friend was pretty serious about it for a while till he went stand up..the pro marty thomas was a boogie for a good while before he went stand up...
Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2005 11:49 AMRegarding the beatdown... I read somewhere that the Texan was bi-polar and off his medication.
E,
Posted by: SFKneelo at March 23, 2005 11:57 AMGood that you read Roots first. It almost sounds like you just discovered it. The movie was big news when it came out. It was THE topic of conversation leading up to it and well after it. We really looked forward to every weekly installment. It's worth a view... unless you like to savor your own visualization.
how about surf mats? anyone have history
Posted by: korewin at March 23, 2005 11:59 AMwith those? they were the DEAL on the nc coast
when i was a little gremlin...first wave riding
i ever did was on a mat.
Thanks to Jim Shaw...great shots! Have any of the Sloat Pier?
I had a run in with Truelove a few years ago. He cold-cocked me at Kelley's just for being out. He didn't know me but I knew him. I had just paddled out when one of his buds started talking at me and I just shrugged because I couldn't hear what he said. Next thing I knew I was hit in the face by Truelove from the other side and pushed off my board. I got back on and caught the next set wave which he tried but failed to catch cursing me as I dropped in. I kick out and another of his buds paddles over and I ask him what's Truelove's problem. He gets off his board, swims at me and starts punching at me but can't land one because he's in the water. So, I paddle in past PeeWee who's sitting on the inside. I said to him I'm gonna press charges and I want him to back me up as an eyewitness. He just shrugged and said everyone knows not to go near Bobby and he won't claim to have seen anything. I got the Park Police to call Truelove out of the water but like the coward he is he paddled to Sutro Baths and hid behind the rocks. Turns out he had several outstanding evasion citations with the police.
A couple of months later the second guy who went after me paddled over on a large day to apologize saying he didn't know I was a regular (as if that should matter).
A few months later I'm checking the surf from the island between lanes on the Great Highway in the Aves. Truelove going south pulls a U-turn right over the island while screaming at me to get out of the way and heads north. A Park Police was at the light behind us, saw the whole thing, pulled Truelove over and that's the last time I've seen him around.
Posted by: kdalle at March 23, 2005 12:01 PMBoogies didn't exist yet when I learned but we did use inflatable mats (like George Greenough) on day when the surf had poor shape. Filled em til they were rock hard somethimes and stood on them. Good fun.
sweet archive pics, Jim! (and the top Tica isn't bad either! ; ) one question....approximately what year (years) was (were) those taken?
here's a pic (assuming I can post it correctly) of something else with beautiful curves borrowed from a Bondi Beach daily surf update that a buddy Down-Under forwarded to me...

Posted by: ck at March 23, 2005 12:08 PMhttp://www.wimp.com/waterfight
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 12:12 PMMatts? Oh yeah! Spent whole summers at the beach riding matts as a kid.
Posted by: con at March 23, 2005 12:12 PMCrazy story Kdalle. That guy sounds like a madman.
I started on a boogie. Got one of those orange Morey boogie boards when i was 10. Mostly just a toy to take to the beach with mom and sis. It's weird how surfing exists around here without really a beach culture. As a kid we used to go to the beach all day in the summer. Build sandcastles, read, have long-jump competitions, build paddle-ball slides, play frisbee, go boogie boarding, skimboard, etc. I learned how to go down the line at that thing. Always felt like a dork around the surfers. Always wanted to surf but couldn't afford a board until i turned 15. Bought a fluorescent yellow 6'10 WRV shortboard at Surfer's Supplies in Ocean City for $200. Still have it today.. Mellow Yellow.
Posted by: e at March 23, 2005 12:12 PMI can see how someone has anger management problems, but it seems to me that dealing with an assult charge would be a pain in the ass. Especially for surfing. I can see kicking someone's ass for calling your wife/girlfriend a cunt or whatever, but randomly punching someone because you missed a wave seems kind of lame. Personally, I'd sue the dick who cold cocked me. Fuck it, I need the money. If the guy goes to jail, I could care less.
Posted by: accountingfreek at March 23, 2005 12:15 PMDamn, Kdalle. That's a pretty crazy story. That sounds like stories from the Lane. I'm not sure how I'd react if that happened to me.
Posted by: Dennis at March 23, 2005 12:16 PMSorry you felt like a dork around the surfers. People should'nt care what any one thinks about your ride. Ancient Hawaiians rode Paipo boards which have recently been converted to body boards by Tom morey.
Posted by: sorry e at March 23, 2005 12:17 PMI might be wrong but I think Paipo boards were for the majority of the people but stand up boards were for the royalty.
YOU CAN HAVE THIS BAGGAGE.
The reason I am writing in, for the last time (ever) before leaving for springtime in Hawaii, is I want to straighten out a few recent issues pertaining to Niceness.org.
There is an illness herein and I am responsible. I never mean to let my terrets (sp) get the best of my bi-polarism, but sometimes I just LOSE IT accidently in my head and hit 'POST'.
Good for you whomever you are - showing progress with your rudimentary writing skills, [Clap clap clap]. Yesterday's comments were tortured - sounding as is if you're writing from within a prison cell using crayons? Are you in prison? You sound a wee bit envious. The kind of person that is personally frustrated with how things have panned out. I am sorry for making you feel this way - seek help. Or better yet, achieve something - stand for something - prove it to yourself. Who are you? Do you know? Do we know?
Margaret died an untimely death. Her work had taken off and the blow was a tough one for all of us at the time. Leave her husband out of it. He has a new life. Leave him alone. Except for displaying her artwork randomly I am relieved that E and others decided to fill everyone in on who she was. Thanks. I can't stand exploitation without an explanation.
Posted by: Dickey Mora (Over 'n Out) at March 23, 2005 12:18 PM"Surf Trip" was ages ago and we were all, at the time, into creating something out of what was kind of a nothing.
During those years it was fun, art was art and all the peronalities that went with it were pretty groovy. Jim Ganzer, Ned Evans, Michael Knowlton, Tracy Moffett, Sandow Birk, Glen Kaino, Russell Crotty - the artist list went on and on. I don't know when I became so bitter about it all? Making little or no money producing shows and I could never pimp out the artists for profit; they had enough of hard time splitting the cash with the galleries who all to often take as much as 65%! Artist's tend to go where the exposure is - who can blame them?
The art scene went in other directions and I in another. Funny reading that old material on this blog - god - whomever did the research must have spent some seriously obsessive time on it - WEIRD!! TOO WEIRD. I'M BEING STALKED! JUST LIKE CADEVER SAID !!
BTW- The "curatorial statement" was co-written with the Yerba Buena staff, all in about an hour. I didn't so much care about it. A little b.s. history, a little art, a little film - no big deal.
The horse mural's were done by Rubi Neri- a series lasting from '91-'97.Her dad being Manuel Neri. She left for Los long ago. Los Angeles is not a bad place. There is a lot that goes on there - stuff you can't touch, things you can't keep up with, sunny stuck up beautiful people who don't want to want to know you but will let you in in the end. I understand why there is a rivlalry between it and The City, but its kind of stupid - the only difference in culture, surf or otherwise, these days is the climate. One should be able to flip flop between the two without any hassle. Try it.
As for the rants. They are over. Be glad. I am. Surf on.

Posted by: lerm at March 23, 2005 12:24 PMI am pretty sure Ano and Tunitas structures were built to load lumber and textiles exclusively.(tanbark, wool) Tunitas was a chute (Gordons chute) and was a one way deal- down the chute to the coastal schooner.The small gauge tracks are still visible. Ano pier was part of the Waddell operation.
On the smuggling note- The original "cabin" on my property was used to house alchohol that was landed at Pescadero and Davenport, and was then sent up to the city during prohibition. Never heard about opium. Only booze.
Posted by: web at March 23, 2005 12:26 PMSounds like full on penitentiary lockdown would be a great place for that "Truelove" guy, he'd feel right at home with all the other psychopaths.
That "I am a punching bag" guy was from Carlsbad, not Texas.
more on the incident
yet even more
okay, here's still even more yet
Posted by: cadaver at March 23, 2005 12:27 PMshould I read the rest of Bob's post or clip my toenails?
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 12:28 PMthx DM, BVB, etc... ride on.
Posted by: elias at March 23, 2005 12:29 PMNice post BV Masters Mora... Have fun on the Islands...
Posted by: Mexi at March 23, 2005 12:30 PMI'm basically against violence (inwardly ill-tempered as I am) but exceptions do exist. This kid was one of those exceptions. I think he got off easy.
Posted by: Dennis at March 23, 2005 12:47 PMchecking in a bit late. i wouldn't fuck with kainoa, but he's no asshole. that texan was basically begging for a beating, and kainoa hit him a couple times but kala did most of the damage on the beach. if anyone is an asshole, it's the reporter in both of those interviews who completely baits kainoa to talk shit about bodyboarders.
there are a ton of bodyboarders who rip at standup. paul roach, ross mcbride, cavin yap, chris won, kainoa mcgee, spencer skipper, and even mike stewart are better standup surfers than probably 95% of the people who post on this blog. seriously, the level of surfing at OB is so low, pretty much none of you have the right to talk shit.
all you lindy-lovers need to get over it. some waves are just better for bodyboarding.
Posted by: bbr at March 23, 2005 12:49 PMcool pics by the way
Posted by: bbr at March 23, 2005 12:54 PMFunny, several defenses here of bodyboarders against . . . nothing. I don't see any belittling of bodyboarders here at all.
I totally disagree that messing up the guys face was called for, even if he *gasp* told a famous bodyboarder to get fucked. If he was impeding the contest (and it sounds like he wasn't), there are lots of things to do short of the manly act of whaling on his face with all your buds standing by to back you up.
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 12:58 PMFunny things happen on this hear place....
I love the history leasons and the stories about "Truelove" and the like! Good to know that there were much harder things a surfer had to deal with in the day then just trying to get to the outside...
I spent some time reading some books about Pacifica and the land develop there. The area around Lindy used to be more marsh-like back in the day. Likewise, there was a train track which ran around what we know as Rockaway, thru Linda Mar area and out around the land end area to the south. You can still see what is left of the "road bed" which the tracks laid on. Originally, the Pedro Point Cove on the west side of Pacifica was a place where "cargo" was loaded onto the passing train and taken south/north for distribution. The "cargo" many times was alcohol and the like during the prohibition era. Pretty cool crap! There is no way you could have caught a cargo shit unloading moonshine on one of those trains out in that area. I recall reading that these make-shift homes on the other side of the cliff, in the cove, were a result of that early rail line. Once it got to Devil's Slide, I have no idea what happened to it but there are some tunnels which have been filled over time on the downside of the cliffs there.
On the Dickey Mora front, I hate to see him go! Keep the rants coming! If the sensitive type can't deal with it, maybe they shouldn't post. Enjoy Oahu. If you have some extra time, I left a few timepieces on the bottom at Waikiki and just south of Alligator Rock. I'd love to have either back.....
Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2005 01:02 PM1-2 hours in the contest line up, isnt impeding the contest? What would happen if a kayaker were to sit at the lane, pipe or other venue for 1.5 hours and tell the water patrol to fuck off. Get you facts straight before you open up with false statements.
Posted by: get the story right at March 23, 2005 01:02 PMYeah, better shoot him then.
Posted by: good point at March 23, 2005 01:05 PMShare the stoke. Leave it alone.
70% of the human body is H2O. Big fucking deal.
Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2005 01:10 PMRe the alcohol smuggling, I further confirm that during the prohibition various moonshine operations existed between HMB and Pescadero utilizing the water from the Tunitias and Purisima creeks. I understood that the barrels were loaded onto boats bound for SF. I will confirm from a local property owner re the use of the piers and whether the area was also used to produce opium.
I can't explain it, maybe its some sort of Stockholm Syndrome thing, but im kinda going to miss BVB. Wish he would have posted more positive stuff re his local surf / art experiences rather than the negative rants. Entertaining none-the-less. Anyway, BVB - Good luck on the islands, stay positive and promote the peace!!!
Posted by: traut at March 23, 2005 01:13 PMWasn't it determined that the dude who got his ass beaten was on meth at the time?
Posted by: scottyp at March 23, 2005 01:14 PMAnd the other 30% is bullshit.
Posted by: Dennis at March 23, 2005 01:16 PMNo, he wasnt bipolar, No he wasnt methed out. He was an asshole you didnt respect other waveriders.
Posted by: facts straight please at March 23, 2005 01:16 PMMost bodyboarders are people who never successfully made the
Posted by: Bodyboarders are speedbumps at March 23, 2005 01:16 PMtransition to standup. There are some exceptions, but most
bodyboarders should be happy they are tolerated at all. Level
of surfing low - from a bodyboarder??? That's a lark - the
average level of bodyboarding at OB is a 12 year old with fins
playing in the whitewater. Grow up, learn to surf, or deal with
your inadequacies some other way. If you choose to ride on your
stomach you are never going to be respected by surfers. You'd
be better off bodysurfing.
Instead you take the "least skill required" form of wave-riding
and pimp it like it's doing something special. Its not, and
millions of 12 year olds all over the world can show you.
thats a "who" not a "you"
Posted by: facts straight please at March 23, 2005 01:17 PMLike Kaiser said share the stoke. No one is lesser. It seems like some true colors are shining through.
Okay, now there's anti-bb stuff to reply to. Point withdrawn. :-)
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 01:20 PMTell the Hawaiians that ride Paipo boards they are lessers. Got Teeth?
Posted by: wrong again at March 23, 2005 01:20 PMi hate humans!!! standup, sitdown, laydown, whatever humans all suck!! if we had opposable thumbs we'd rule the world!!!!
Posted by: dog at March 23, 2005 01:20 PMMay love bless all your hearts.
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 01:20 PMMay you all enjoy deep, powerful tube rides.
May the haters feel their own wrath.
May the peaceful procreate profusely.
kaiser - what Pacifica history book did you read? For SF history I suggest reading Barbary Coast and for a Norcal fictional book with elements of woman ninjas, hippies and outlaws, check out Vineland by Pynchon (Im told that this is not as difficult to read as some of his other books, i.e Gravity's Rainbow).
Posted by: traut at March 23, 2005 01:21 PMDickey Mora, its called passion. Seems like you know what that's all about. I appreciated your rants and posts if for nothing more than entertainment and admit to being intrigued by your personality and knowledge, particularly of things I pay attention too. But when you panicked and hit the POST button this time claiming to have some sort of right to someone else's art more than any other that has access to the internet, I flipped out too. Maybe I do need help, thanks for pointing that out, I'm working on it. You're a spaz. In the end I'm just glad I got a little under you skin as this anon shit talking is all that it can be. Have fun on the islands. Keep fighting the good fight. The blog wont be the same without you, And remember, you don't know everything.
Posted by: Amon at March 23, 2005 01:30 PMBVB is just way too cryptic. His posts are pure "you wouldn't understand" with little effort to explain anything.
Like "Leave her husband out of it. He has a new life. Leave him alone." What the hell does that mean?
Posted by: joe O at March 23, 2005 01:39 PMmelekalikimaka bvb...
standing up is the new laying down..
Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2005 01:51 PMoh and JDZ...that is a huge bummer!..like nothing at all? despo's? but aaaa the house...still bummed im not going this year..
Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2005 01:57 PMStay casual BVB. Find your diamond.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 23, 2005 02:34 PMI'm sure no one will notice if BVB comes back as some other userName. SoLongAsHeDoesn'tWriteLikeThis,NoOneWillEverKnow.
I'll quit making fun of you for a while mr carrillo. Sorry, with this G.W.Bush administration in place, I've been mean to everyone the last 5 years. Fucking Bush's fault, yeah.
Posted by: LAXBOB at March 23, 2005 02:55 PMI've been lurking here for at least one read-through for 2-3 years, with the occaissional post when the urge strikes me. But today has been the weirdest, all-over-the-map bunch of posts yet. I'll stand back, take a scatter shot and see what I can hit.
Love the old SF shots
Hate the hater/enforcers - be they in the water or on this blog
Body-boarders are ok
BVB is sometimes disturbing/always interesting
People shouldn't get beat up for just talkin' shit. But if you genuinely feel physically threatened by someone, mindfully and with compassion, knock 'em on their ass.
OK, what'd I miss? Oh yeah, the Ticas! I remember this woman from Cahueta ... oh, never mind!
Posted by: Jimmie at March 23, 2005 03:09 PMI think the islands have internet now Dora.
I'll miss your rants. A lot was true, a lot was false. Just like you it seems.
I need some waves.
Posted by: Hb at March 23, 2005 03:12 PMThank heaven for little girls
Posted by: Peter Sellers at March 23, 2005 03:20 PMcause little girls get bigger everyday
Thank heaven for little girls
they grow up in the most delightful way
Funny how much lip is served by kooks on this site, and how little is served in person. The Brigade dominates not only the surfing and club scene, but the fight scene as well. You cant make it very far in A-town if you cant beat ass. If someone had beef with you, you go pound him, simple. Thats the way it was growing up. Sure, keep mocking the Brigade on this website, it will be your only chance. Once they come to town, they will be throwing buckets and turning heads both in and out of the water. Then nobody will care about your barn-o style, it will be 100% A-town Brigade, bringing it Brigade style.
Posted by: johnnie at March 23, 2005 03:32 PMKindness begets kindness
Posted by: e at March 23, 2005 03:36 PMHate begets hate.
I liked that Kite Runner book too...just finished reading it...threw me for a loop.
bagel...there were waves...nothing that big. Surfed despo's, surfed the other spots, the problem was the 30 knot side sure winds generated by a cyclone over Samoa that blew almost everyday. Remember Ben...he was stuck on Samoa in a shelter during said cyclone. Sounded pretty gnarly.
Posted by: jdz at March 23, 2005 03:41 PMWhere the crap is A-town?
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 03:41 PMDont diss body boarders....this season the dude with the blonde curly hair was killing it on small waves and in some bombs...definitely the charger of the year in my book....boogy, body and stand-up included...guy has sack
The bottom line is that most of the browsers here can catch waves but are not good surfers...myself included....I have seen plenty of boogie boarders out there who can surf!!!! Get some skilz before you trash peeps and maybe your rantings would have some substance.
Take care BVB!!! Come back regulatin harder.......and bitchin more...we love it!!!
BVB is the shiznit you biatches!!!!!
Posted by: PEZ at March 23, 2005 03:42 PMWhat's the brigade and where's A-town? Atherton? Surf's gonna suck for a while, good to talk about something else. Paris Roubaix, Flanders, Windsurfing?
Posted by: blah at March 23, 2005 03:42 PMI gained a lot of respect for boogieboarders, or body boarders, whatever they are called, while living in the islands. I'd watch guys like Mike Stewart paddle out at Rockpiles and swim or paddle (whatever they do, kick?) over to Pipe and wait for ever for some big bomb. Then just get drilled on the inside. Usually surfers would not go out in the same conditions, they were usually someplace safe like Waimea. I'd sit there and watch for hours. Nutty.
Posted by: craigslist at March 23, 2005 03:48 PMThanks for the Puerto Rico pictures- I have been missing the trip to surf warm water that I took there last year. I didn't see the fort break like that but was dumstruck by the scale of the stonework in the building. Must have been a lonely, cold place to be in the 1600's.
Years a go I helped a friend install the Playland sculptures at the MUNI turnaround. There is some good information about the park on the installation. Both of my friend's parents worked at Playland and his mom told me some interesting stories about it and the city in general. It was a different place then and will be different again in another 25- 50 years. It is nice to know what preceeded us- wish I knew what was coming down the pike...
Posted by: goodmorning at March 23, 2005 03:52 PM"A-Town"?.....Okay buddy
Posted by: Atlanta? at March 23, 2005 03:58 PMi heard in hawaii they just call all of it surfing.
(stand up lay down debate)
oh man jdz thats nuts...such a roll of the dice that trip..im sure you had a rad time anyway..killer that ben k was still there i got some great pictures of that guy..hopefully youll get another trip in..im due myself..
Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2005 04:06 PMDon’t be claiming daily on this site that everyone is beautiful, and the ocean doesn’t belong to no-one crap if you aren’t going to stand up up for other waveriders. The constant barrage of whining on “why did he get that beat down” and “angry stinkeyes were given to me”. Wah, wah wah.. Do something about it. If someone talks crap about a surfer because he’s a surfer, tell him to stick it up his/her ass, same goes for look down upons towards BBoarders, bodysurfers, kneeboarders etc....
What are you guys a bunch of hierarchical cast system delegators?
Stand up for other peoples wave choices.. no more wah..wah wah..Unity and solidarity as a whole.
Posted by: Practice what you preach at March 23, 2005 04:07 PMwave pimping for attention begets resentfullness
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 04:21 PMeveryone is sensitive to some issues
push the wrong button and you will be asked to leave
you're whining about other people whining.
whattup with dat?
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 04:21 PMStoke Meter: Can't find it......
"Excuse me, I am trying to look at the waves..."

Traut, in regards to the book, I can't recall the name. I read it at Borders while waiting for my wife. She was dropping in over in the magazine eisle and I was roaming the other breaks. I can tell you exactly where it was located though: Borders (Stonestown) > Book rack past the newspapers > West Side.
I see more hassling on this board these days then I have ever had in the water ANYWHERE I have surfed......
Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2005 04:33 PMnot whining, Just pointing out some double standards. Just believe that some here claim to be all knowing and understanding then state that other fellow riders are below.
No, I’m fervent when it comes to people stating they are better than others simply due to an inanimate object.
Ski/snowboard, surf/sponge, roller blade/skate it doesn’t matter, just your smile when your doing what pleases you.
Posted by: no whine at March 23, 2005 04:33 PMasked to leave what? where?
sorry if i "pimped"
I suck
Posted by: e at March 23, 2005 04:34 PMYou rule
what are those pier pilings over by fort funston (the doggy beach)? Was that a boardwalk?
Posted by: neoconservativeagenda at March 23, 2005 04:35 PMI just had my annual visit with my CPA.
I HAVE BEEN VIOLATED!!!!
.
Posted by: Dash at March 23, 2005 04:40 PMe, no harsh tokes, just a little 411; the word "mulatto" is like using the "n" word. my step sister is half african american. too light to hang with the sisters, too dark for the sorority girls. it's a complicated world out there.
increase your peace
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 23, 2005 04:47 PMla nord

Posted by: e at March 23, 2005 04:48 PMThat kooky A-town brigade post had me thinking of Charging Charger, with all the repetition and what-not.
Posted by: steve-o at March 23, 2005 04:53 PMHi 3to5 and others. I'm a mulatto surfer (half-black, half-white) and i've never thought that term a negative one. Definitely not in the same league as the n-word.
keep the stoke up!
Posted by: mulatto surfer at March 23, 2005 04:58 PMwho are all these random spouters? is it only the rain causing this fecal runoff? how can people that stumble upon this site suddenly convince themselves that they understand all its about and post spiteful diatribes??
don't surfers learn to check the conditions before jumping in?
Posted by: rza at March 23, 2005 05:02 PM
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 05:09 PM
Posted by: LA at March 23, 2005 05:11 PMi love LA
Posted by: Randy Newman at March 23, 2005 05:14 PM
Posted by: blakestah at March 23, 2005 05:18 PMknock it off guys
spring is depressing
Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2005 05:40 PMi'm thinking maybe in terms of snow.
Posted by: kloo at March 23, 2005 05:42 PMNice LA picture. I bet it was nice down there 300 years ago.
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 05:51 PMis that really Blakestah? Dude's got a five head. Not four. Five. Huge! Get that dude a hat.
Posted by: jimmy at March 23, 2005 05:52 PMfuck everybody
Posted by: tom at March 23, 2005 05:53 PMand tell everyone i'm going to beat his ass too.
who is truelove? any background info would be interesting to read. aloha.
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 05:57 PMsorry but I find east coast methods to be abrasive, if you think its humble musings, thats not how it comes off to some. Not arguing your right to be here, you just have to get a thick skin because there are, without hate or whine, going to be people who dissent, thanks for letting us have a voice too.
Posted by: at March 23, 2005 06:20 PMdon't go BVB, we need a drama queen.
Posted by: tragic mulatto at March 23, 2005 06:40 PMI can always tell when the conditions are in decline, because so are many of the posts. Having been through this winter, like many others, I can say with one minor exception I found spongers and standups alike to be pretty standup (sorry for the dig). All the biggest days this winter featured spongers. They mind their business and I mind mine, just like virtually everyone else. So one guy's applause and thanks to the rest for keeping it real, and e for keeping it nice. Just remember, there's always one last sweet spring swell before it's time to go kitesurfing, or flying a kite, or maybe just breathing that fresh ocean air that keeps everything so clean and the water upwelling, yada yada
Posted by: banjo at March 23, 2005 06:52 PMGot busy at work and didn't check in, thank goodness. What is going on here? Two cents from a middle aged kook. There are some important historical images to be saved from Jim Shaw. They would make a great article in the Surfer's Journal.
BVB (maybe) don't go there. You're a pain in the butt but you add value to this site. Maybe you could reduce the number of names you use for posting? We all deal with the demons.
There is absolutely no excuse for violence unless someone threatens the safety of you or your family. Then you may kill them.
I didn't have a ton of respect for boogies until I photographed Scott, Alex, and others at OB. Check them out on the inner bar and it's clear. These guys rule!
Done preaching.
Posted by: Bruce at March 23, 2005 07:38 PMI just dug this picture of chile up, I'm a fucking walking contadiction... shoot me Bruce.
Posted by: Mexi at March 23, 2005 08:05 PMBruce, We need to exchange fot services sometime...
groo
Posted by: Brian Wallace at March 23, 2005 08:06 PM
Posted by: Brian Wallace at March 23, 2005 08:08 PMEarly morning, beautiful stuff.
One day, I will go to Chile........er........Mexi, that is a sweet shot. You must of had a sweet time down there.
Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2005 09:00 PMSpeaking of chile... Some customers were served a very special batch of chile at a San Jose Wendy's recently.
Posted by: steve-o at March 24, 2005 12:24 AMhttp://www.mercurynews.com/mld/mercurynews/news/local/11212811.htm
Non-surfing lurker from the banks of the Chattahoochee River in Georgia, who eventually hopes to become a surfer during my mid life crises, delurking.
1st rule of surfing, do not surf during any contests, and then insult people without good dental insurance. Got it.
Kite-Runner is a great book. It tells an amazing story, and also talks about the hypocisy of religous fundementalists. Read it.
I went back and looked at my photos of Old San Juan, the fort and the grave yard, and did not see any large surf. I love that coastline, however. Thanks for bringing back the memories of my trip there.
I love the site. Back to lurking.
Posted by: gttim at March 24, 2005 06:20 AM"is that really Blakestah? Dude's got a five head. Not four. Five. Huge! Get that dude a hat.
Posted by: jimmy on March 23, 2005 05:52 PM "
Yeah, maybe - but he's got dem Woody Harrelson eyes!
Note: "Jimmy" is NOT "Jimmie"
Posted by: Jimmie at March 24, 2005 07:23 AMFuck contests....
Here's the latest news in the Pleasure Point surf contest debate, by onfitness mag editor
Posted by: contest fucker at March 24, 2005 08:13 AMJoseph Grassadonia: Some new rules have come out by the Santa Cruz County Parks and Recreation Department who supervises and provides permits for surf contests. What these new rules mean is any surf contest promoter, organizer, or contestant that attempts to block or keep free surfers out of any wave lineup -- and that includes the contest lineup itself -- is in violation of Santa Cruz County rules and regulations pertaining to surf permits and contests and can and will have their permit revoked. We have received the counties pledge that they will hold the line on surf contests at Pleasure Point. Our recommendation is a maximum of three (3) contests per year that only promote fun for everyone and the Aloha Spirit of Pleasure Point. No out of town clothing companies trying to make a buck on the backs of free surfers. Please take it somewhere else. Pleasure Point is for everybody and not to be sold out! Also, here is a hotline number you can call to complain if you have been bullied or harassed by contest participants or promoters: 831-454-7954 ask for Mary Pat Music
i should be going to chile again in june if everything works out correctly, it's an amazing place.
sorry for my post yesterday, noone had really said anything that negative about bodyboarding yet and i just kinda snapped. full cubicle rage.
it does get to me when people who aren't even good surfers start capping on the world's top bodyboarders, but noone had really even done that, so my bad.
on another note, be on the lookout for a full interview with OB ripper Alex Czech Schaffer along with some sick pics from Bruce at http://www.a-framemag.com on april 11th.
Posted by: bbr at March 24, 2005 08:38 AM