E's Surf Report

Now that the season is almost over, I'll make a prediction for next year. More of the same. Make sure you get all those aliments fixed for next season. Ocean temps are forcasted to be stable for the next year and maybe longer.

I think I'm going down to Huntington Beach during Easter weekend. Probably be a mob scene but it's a good road trip for a long weekend and my wife likes the beach there. Hope the waves will be good.

Dano-
hey my emial is mschoony at hotmail dot com
If you have a chance any beta on Costa Rica would be great, places to stay, breaks ect.

Peace

hey all,
hope everyone enjoyed the beautiful weather. about time we had some sun! went down to sc yesterday and caught some waves at the point. a little unorganized but some sweet ones did appear. and oh so nice not to duck dive through wall upon wall of water!
i found this gash on the front rubber panel of my wetsuit yesterday. it doesn't go all the way through (i think it stops on the inside fabric) but it looks like it may spread and ruin my suit. any advice on how to repair it?

I echo what E said this morning.

KNOW YOUR ROLE!!!!!!!

We all have one: the local, the tranny, the newbie, the semi-local, the experienced, the first timer, the old guy, the young kid, the sponger, the punk, the asshole, the nice guy, the smartass, the dick, the one that is wearing gloves....

You get the idea!

Leaving for Hawaii this week, can't wait! I need a good infusion of respectful surfing....

ASP News: Wardo is sick! Kelly is the man. Bruce is starting off hot. Andy better lose to Bruce. Occy is still Occy. Taj is a great "freesurfer". Glad to have Fanning back. I still don't like Parko.

narrel or barrel?

i know its probably been discussed here before, but im wondering if anybody could give some suggestions on good surf reading: novels, fiction/nonfiction. ive read allen weisbecker's books, kem nunn's, just read Way of the Surfer by Drew Kampion and am now reading Dan Duanes Caught Inside. most were pretty good, but im ready to get my hands on more. any suggestions? thanks!

gabriel - check out "We Approach Our Martinis with Such High Expectations" by Jamie Brisick. It's a good, short read.

went down to a certain nature perserve yesterday afternoon at low tide. totally blown out and not working at all. nobody even thinking about it. saw some neat elephant seals though. those things are huge!

checked out the new mars volta disc. it is damn good!

anybody else having trouble getting to the asp site?

one last thing. i've been trying to locate the best deal on a bigger 4WD SUV for a Baja trip. the plan is to rent in Cabo. anybody have any advice? thanks in advance.

I surfed one of those crowded points on Sat and Sun. I caught plenty of waves on my new longboard, it's been a while since I've had one. It was awesome, noserides are so fun. I also echo what E said and took my time paddling back out. I got snaked a dozen times this weekend, no worries they always pulled out , a couple I had to help off with a little nudge, but the waves were long.

My friend Jim caled me on his way back from Mavs yesterday, and it just seems weird to talk with him.. they are kinda like super heros.. that shit is crazy.

Kaiser,
You don't like Parko, I think he has the smoothest style out of all the current WCT guys. He also seems pretty mellow in comparison..classic Aussie.

That pic is definitely a barrel..take a look at the lip of the next section...the super bank throws some really meaty sections, it is one of those waves that can grow with each section.

My favorite surfing reads are the Non Fiction ones..the Jeff Hakman story is legit as is the Rabbit bio or the MP Bio(but you may need an Aussie translator).

Rediculousnessness. E. Why you be namin' da fort?
Why you be cryin' bout Ryan - he never did nuttin' to you. Trouble with his vibe? HIs looks? Go surf 6 mile.
Sheeiiiiit - you people have no idea - the posse is 110% behind him. We all feel a certain way and it will never say never change.
A lot of extra people in the lineup on account of it being the a gay bay area yuppie walk - run bike - trike weekend - lotta internet hotties sexpotting their shit around -- I sneer at them mostly - the tarts!
Da wave breaks on a bias angle cuz da rocks and da point so if the direction of the swell is this or that whatever it is DO NOT CROSS PADDLE TO THE INSIDE CORNER TRYING TO BEAT IT TO THE PEAK.
If you do, a: you will most surely land on the victim behind who is now underneath you; b: You will/could end up with the nose of a board DRIVEN through the bottom of your own. Beware the rocks and stay on the inside. Thanks.

Lerm-
where are you going in Baja, last nov rented a vw jetta and it took great care of us on every dirt road form caobo to north of todos santos...

shout out to J.O.C. - scbt is on the hunt. kind words exchanged. sending positive energy your way.

go Bruce!

Lerm, I just went through the whole renting an suv in Ccabo thing myself. Finally settled on a wrangler from Avis for ~$400 for ten days. I'm sure I'll end up kicking myself when I get down there and see how much cheaper I could've gone if I didn't book ahead. Oh well, it's worth not having to deal with the hassle, and just hitting the road. When are you heading down?

Oh yeah, props to Bruce for getting published in Longboard Mag!

I definitely echo the Know Your Role comments. I watched a guy paddle yesterday out at Ft Point at low tide without putting his leash on. Of course the first wave he goes for he wipes out and the board goes flying into the rocks. He then swims in after it and gets washed around on the rocks while holding on to his board. He was really lucky that he didn't get totally crunched by a large set. It was one of those situations where i had a bad feeling about the guy before he even got in the water, but he was with someone who seemed to know what he was doing. Know your limits, and know your friends' limits too, just to be safe.

hey jack masters....

i need a good retirement fund from the dipshit
colonial whitey owning thing mentality. the
beach is for everyone. all beaches. everywhere.
when it gets physical it is too far. i saw the video
of your pal and that was so far beyond what surfing
is about. turns my stomach to hear that endorsed.

ON THE BRIGHTER SIDE OF LIFE:

GO BRUCE!!! cheers for the shot in the mag....!

jack masters - who's naming?? Didn't even look at ** all weekend.. or the other place. Ryan is a scary dude. i would NOT mess with him. I've seen him punch people unmercifully. He's yelled at me for simply catching waves. His localism works. But.. it's frightening.

thanks guys! we (e, mwsf, dr deni & i) are going down around memorial day.

i found some sweet deals on car and wranglers, but i don't think we can fit 4 guys, 5 boards and all our camping gear in either of those rides. so, i've been trying to rent something a little bigger. most of the companies only offer suburbans as the next size up.

adam, i think you are doing the right thing by booking in advance. it would suck to get all the way down there and find out you couldn't get a 4WD.

Korewin: Correct me if I'm wrong but weren't you the creep with the post last week about a tree and a beach and some rope? Basically threatening people of color with lynching. I don't know who you are but I would love to meet you!
Stop with naming - the cryin' about Ryan. He did his time; he paid the price for his actions. It is over and done with. The vibes you feel will always be there with you. What troubles me is that you talk a lot of shit for a fucking transplant from the east. Unbelievable. Typical.

1.  Avoid surfing new breaks alone, especially if it is a popular break.
 
2.  Realize that localism is a result of overcrowding. Therefore, the more crowded a break is, the more tension there is likely to be in the water.  Because locals feel at home at the break and feel invaded by unfamiliar faces, they sometimes react in a negative manner to newcomers.
 
3.  Realize also that surfing is a traveling sport, and nobody is meant to surf only those waves closest to home. You have just as much right to surf a wave at someone else's local break as that person has to surf the waves near your house.
 
4.  Practice surf etiquette in the lineup. (See "How to Paddle Into the Surfing Lineup.")
 
5.  Watch the other surfers. If only a few people seem to be taking most of the waves, those people are most likely locals, familiar with the wave.
 
6.  Mark the surfers who seem like troublemakers and egomaniacs. These surfers usually make a lot of noise, bitching about the crowd or pouting about their wave. They usually talk loud to other locals to let nonlocals know how "in" they are.
 
7.  Give these arrogant surfers a little extra space. Don't drop in on their wave or paddle around them for the peak. Wait for them to take a wave, and then move to the peak position.
 
8.  Be respectful, and concentrate on your surfing.
 
9.  Remain calm if someone tries to come at you with irrational anger. Apologize if you did something wrong, but don't be a coward. Explain that you are only interested in surfing.
 
10.  Take your next wave in, and call it a day if the vibe in the water begins to feel overly hostile.
 
 
Tips:
Remember that you also add to the vibe in the water. Smile, and be friendly to unfamiliar faces. Be a host of your local surf break, not a hex.
 
However unfortunate it is that big egos must pollute the surf breaks, the last thing you should ever do is fuel the fire. Be calm in the water.
 
 
Warnings:
Never play into someone wanting to go to shore to fight. If someone tries to attack you in the water, paddle away and toward other surfers.
 
Avoid fights before they begin. Realize when a situation is becoming hostile, and get away from it. There are no police in the water.
 

local 415 - You're a nice guy in person.

local 415....

sarcasm?

the words "dipshit colonial whitey" don't belie the above?
yeah i AM from the east and we tend to be a bit more
cordial....as for the rope comment; that may have been
over the top but again sarcasm is exactly that, sarcastic.
i have never lynched anyone or even rounded up a posse
but this ryan guy has beat folks.....over waves and surf!
that ain't right. ever. period.

volcano in alasks endangers skiers/snowboarders

very well put jack me masters.

i concur.

and local 415 i was NOT talking about people
of color with respect to my rope and a tree. that
is what western folks don't get; vigilante justice
is for everyone. obviously, ya'll beat on folks just
'cause they from out of town. i was NOT making a
racially motivated comment ie. tree and rope i was
insinuating (again sarcastically) that dickheads in the
water be dealt with in that manner regradless of any
other factors. i hope this clarifies things.

i disagree with jack me masters number 1. I'd advise ALWAYS paddling out alone to a crowded spot. Easier to keep a low-pro if you're solo. Paddling out with an insta-crowd of your bros is bad etiquette.

Sat I drove south the long way, and by the time I i found a surfable (for me) place I had no time to actually surf. But it looked pretty fun.

This morning I found the broken-up swell a blessing at Closeout Cove; bunches of funlets, with no wind (though mild onshores were starting when I left at 11:30).

Bottom of board got sorta speared by a guy running me over just after take-off on a paddle out. Probably my fault; I'll have some ding-repair time to sort out what I should have done differently.

simple.. just don't surf crowded spots...

You think the linup is too crowded? I had to wait 1 hour for a tennis court last week while my Mercedes was baking in the sun! That's suffering. Whimps.

thats my motto, though i kind of wish i hadnt waved surfing the most crowded spot in sf yesterday..man i remember the locals in oxnard, now those foo's was scary, crowbars and pipes and shit..i think its actually mellower nowadays what with all the lawsuits and all..sf localism is funny as the only days that the waves are acually good there so much to go around theres no need to hassle unless your just an a-hole and ill have to say theres way more cool heads in sf than a- holes in my experience..
-hassle free since 93'

mjs, sorry I have no knowledge of Costa... never been there before. However, you might want to check this book out.

word up bagel.

I hear there is a great secret spot just around the bend....

Look, Jack Masters aka tranny from hell aka short skinny big-mouthed Fort Point surfing loser

Crying Ryan is NOT Ryan Farrell.

Ryan Farrell has two strikes. Beg him to hit you once, and you will NEVER see him again, ever. He's like a cat with no claws, a pit bull with no teeth. He HAS to take it. If he gets caught again its bye bye Ryan.

Remember that next time he yells at you, e.

Oh, and my friend just sent me a shot of this break. I guess the right is a bit better then the left...

book tip: "the big drop" is a collection of big wave rides from way back up through the early tow in era. most of the stories are good reads.

I'm here in Rio surfing my balls off in beautiful warm water waves that are VERY crowded but guess what...the vibe is chill just surf no local stinkeye shit like the Norcal shit we put up with,no classifications just surfers. Why is it that the worst locals are always white punks with a sense of entitlement? I'm going to paddle out at the "secret " spot under the bridge in a fucking speedo! Just surf and smile , as my taxi driver said last night " what bonds us all rich and poor, is that we all die, so that's why we have to enjoy life" so show respect to all and have fun!!Keep up the good vibe E!

excellent composition on those photos kaiser!!

18 @ 20

Rza, wetsuit fix that got lost in the lame posts.....use dental floss to stitch it up. Works great and is still holding my suit together after at least a year! Amazing.

Surfed a beautiful cove this weekend, kinda localized but you go by yourself and know the rules and smile you are stoked! And be sure to bring a beer or two for the long walk back up the hill.

ASP Event: Live!!!

Regarding the wetsuit problem- go to Aqua and pick up some AquaSeal (tube is like 10 bucks) - the stuff works great, and seals up small to medium cuts perfect, make sure let it dry for at least 24 hours. Store the tube in the freezer if u want it to keep for longer than a couple months.

Hi everyone, This is my first time posting and I'm wondering if anyone can reccomend a good ocean oriented safety/CPR course. A course specifically oriented to surfing would be ideal but anything with the ocean in mind would do. Thanks!

Eddie Would Go is a good book

Newgirl: Welcome. From this site not long ago:

http://arcsf.axxiomportals.com/main_CRS/crs_detail.asp?topic=CRS_VIEW&flattopic=1&lngkey=en&id=1322

Suuurrrrffff!!!

Thanks for the link! I'll check it out and hopefully I'll never need to use the skills...

BTW, anyone ever surfed Muir Beach? There's a cam now.

i am giving a review of the new GoPro Hero camera... it's a reusable camera with waterhousing, designed by surfers for surfers (at the beach?)... I picked mine up from surfline for $40.

unfortunately, i am not sure how much i would recommend getting one. on the good side, the guys did a great job making the camera easy to surf with / use. the straps on the wrist seem legit, and it didn't bother me at all during two sessions of reasonable size. so that's very cool... just surf and if you are in position for a picture, snap away. on the bad side, after getting really stoked on my first roll, trying to shoot pics inside the barrel and thinking i got some good shots of other people surfing, my pictures were pretty crappy. about on par for the level of a regular disposable waterproof camera (which I've always found to suck). my pictures were really blurry. even when i was just sitting on my board taking a snap.

So... I'll give it a feeble endorsement... it's a cheap way to get a water setup, and it's easy to surf with, so I'll try again... But you get what you pay for, and with this, I found the quality to be disappointing.

~ on the surf and vibe tip, I've found the line "give respect to get respect" to be working well for me lately.

mick fanning rips!

4LOS here to remind all of you that none of us are native creatures to the SF Peninsula. We are surfers who live in a big, built-up city. Some of "us" are, however, overprivileged white trash with warped senses of entitlement. Congratulations to you chaps, that must have been really difficult to develop -- that self-styled bitterness that kind of eats you up inside, even when you are not in the water or around other people. It eats when you are alone, when you are in your car, when you are tkaing a dump. YOu can;t just behave that way in the water, some of it comes right back out with you. I call you the Ulcer Crew when you paddle out, b/c that's where you're headed. At least attempt to remember the source...it's in there somewhere...before you grew up to be such "big, bad men in the water." See, there's the antidote, now take it.

Rio sounds nice right about.....nyow....

-4LoveOfSurfing

agreed. fanning rules! go the albino!

Congrads Bruce!

J.O.C. About the Go Pro- I seemed to get a lot of shots of the sky when I was surfing- Quality mediocre, but enough to show your friends what they missed.

Go Pro Hero cam shot: Lonely Dec Outerbar Day

ouch....

Fanning is killing it!!!!

HB and OB rat, thanks for the wetsuit tips

Spring has sprung.

I was just listening to the ASP broadcast with Ross Clarke-Jones in the booth:

"We think we have found another surfable big-wave location. They have measured the largest wave known to break there. I won't tell you where it is though. We need to find more big wave places out there as it is getting crowded in the water...."

Getting crowded.......Damn.......

parko just had two tubes, 3 cutties and an air on the same wave and scored a 5.17. What up wit dat?

Joel's gettin' ripped off!!! WTF!! farking deep-ass barrel. give em the score!!

e - I agree that score just didn't make sense.

Parko deserved to lose! Fanning is the shizz.

Ugh... I'll I can get is audio from Snapper. Some of you peeps get off the site so I can connect!

i only get the postage-stamp-size one working. slates!!

yeah Mick!

Ryan Regan has always been an a-hole.
He cant kick it.He could been a contender....
Poor sod will die an a-hole.
Its a big world Ryan, and fort point aint the center of it......
Peace.

Wassup all. Hero here from GoPro, local maker of the Hero camera. Newgirl, just a quick shout out about your blurry Hero photos. You got water on the lens, homegirl! That is your ONLY problem.

You need to rub a little surf wax on the lens of the waterhousing each time you surf, and then buff it off with your wetsuit or boardies. This will prevent water drops from forming. That's the only reason your photos are blurry...you are shooting through a thin film of water!

We almost NEVER get blurry photos because we wax the lens. It's a fact of life for every water camera.

For proof of what I say, you best be checkin' http://www.goprocamera.com and the photo gallery for proof. No blurry photos!

We'll be posting this tip on the camera in the future...but there you have it.

Many thanks!

Here are some sample photos to show what the GoPro Hero camera can do (*try* to notice the camera on her wrist :):