E's Surf Report

Drove to a cove, hoping for the "fair to good" stuff promised on a website, but it was howling onshore, a few game longboarders in the rain standing in waist-high poo-water trying to jump on mush. Fortunately, it's going to clean up perfectly by noon. I just know it!

Congrats on your gig!

When was that Tom Curren episode on Fuel TV?
Has anyone heard his new CD?

Yeah the new Curren CD sounds REAL good if you like listening to a stoner hit the same lame ass notes over and over again. Bit like listening to Jack Johnson's cd; you can duplicate the same sounds running your nails down a chalkboard mixing in caterwhal and the repetive drumbeat from a Tommy Guererero "remastered" mix.
Fu** this surf idolotry. Havn't you heard? The world is on fire; adding to this blog is about as meanigless a thing a person could possibly do. One more thing - Thomas Campbell needs to grow up, cut his hair back to normal, level the doubled cuff and lose the mission hispster affectation - geezuz, what a poseur.
Shut up and surf. I hate everyone.
Korewing, when can we meet?

Mexi, nice work as usual. Did a quick utility session this morning. Fairly crappy, but with a rainbow and dolphins jumping out the back of the inside waves about 50 feet away... niceness.

Wardo went mental yesterday at Snapper. Something like a 19.5, with one 10. Shrapling. That web coverage rocks. The early waves where perfection before the bump got on it.

I just found out a friend owns a hotel in Costa right on da beach. Will investigate later.

D'Souza and his co-researchers administered various doses of delta-9-THC, the main active ingredient in cannabis, to subjects who were screened for any vulnerability to schizophrenia. Some subjects developed symptoms resembling those of schizophrenia that lasted approximately one half hour to one hour.

These symptoms included suspiciousness, unusual thoughts, paranoia, thought disorder, blunted affect, reduced spontaneity, reduced interaction with the interviewer, and problems with memory and attention. THC also induced euphoria and increased levels of the stress hormone cortisol. There were no side effects in the study participants one, three and six months after the study.

looks like i'm headed to kona in july and i'm kinda not that stoked about it. i know dorian and slater have places there, so i figure there must be some pretty decent surf. but i'm thinking in july i'm likely to get skunked. do southies hit the spots there, anyone know?
i'm such a brat. i only want to go on trips where i'm likely to score and i've already been to hawaii a few times. so should i continue to pout about having spend my vacation and money on kona or am i stoked? i can't seem to find good info on the web. thanks ya'll.

Wardo's Snapper waves

I see Rosey Rose is up early today! Mexi, sweet shots, where is that last one taken if you don't mine me asking? The chica looks to be surfing the Amazon River. Super clean water on that one.

This just looks bad....

Dogs, lawn chairs, neighbors, German tourists, you name it...The new Half Moon Bay Donkey Show. Sweet shot Bruce!

 
Of course, surfing is more than a hobby for us, it’s a passion. We wake up at 6:30 every morning to check the waves. We’ve been surfers since the age of ten.

We also love to travel, and so when we go on vacation it’s always to surf. We spent a month in Tahiti and we’ve been to the north shore of Hawaii numerous times. We also make a lot of road trips down to Mexico (surf and eat lobster) since it is only three hours away and the beaches are not crowded.
 
 
Another one of our passions in life is snowboarding. We both started about four years ago. We can still remember that painful day that it all started. It was spring time and the snow was icy and hard as a brick. We would get going about five feet and Wham! The outside edge would catch sending us flying head-first into the snow. We were both so sore that we rested for the whole next day.

Just like in surfing, modeling has allowed us to pack our snowboards during various excursions.
 
 
We go to the gym 4-6 times a week depending on the surf. We do both weight training and aerobics.

You will get some valuable workout tips within the member section.

Of course also the diet is a very important part of our lifestyles. You will find our tips in the members area, soon.
 
 
We did very well in college. We graduated from California State University Dominguez Hills with degrees in Business (finance). Keith's overall college GPA was 3.62 -- Magna Cum Laude and Derek's was 3.57.

steamwind. IMHO
be stoked. there are many who would trade spots instantly with you. live it up and dont waste time pouting.

steamwand.. Lerm went to the big island in the summer and scored fun surf. I think mostly on the other side from Kona. The hiking and exploring will be rad, regardless of swell.. and you always have the tradewind swell on the east side.

hanging out on the cliff like that is pretty dangerous. more dangerous than surfing mavs maybe.

weed brings on the skitzo for me, so no more.

how many watts you put out surfing? VO2 max? surfing at a high level is great for training anerobic threshold. not that anyone here cares.

Petrus Christus

Steamwind, you will be in Hawaii! Suck down some Portugese sausage and eggs, hit some Kona coffee, eat your pineapple chucks and look at how blue the water is. Then think about how nice the water will feel.

Now, imagine the same feeling eating Moons Over MyHammy at Denny's and rolling over to Lindy to catch some blown out, poo ridden, mushburgers.

Feeling any better?

thanks guys. you're right. it'll be awesome. it's for my friends' 10 year wedding anniversary. that's a long time in our postmodern world. i wonder what the average is these days.
so lerm? you out there? wanna hook me up or should i fend for myself? i'm at steamwand89 at the yahoo.

Steamwind, Kona gets plenty of south all summer long, in Kona side. I love your "What's-in-it-for-me" attitude, you are a typical mercenary surfer. Kona is crowded now, NOT like like last century. Lots of JOJ kooks buying property and making traffic jams now. Walmart galore, real estate land grab, rush hour, Hilo side too. Good bye, paradise, we'll remember you fondly! Hello, overpopulation and the mainstreaming of surfing. The underground cult of surfing is dead and so is the solace of the Big Island. People are like a cancer, they assimilate to everything until it becomes a part of them. That's what happened to Kona and F anybody who says otherwise.

-4 Love Of Surfing

lance carcinogenic....

huh?

curren is/was a drunk NOT a stoner.

don't like the log bubba don't read it.
i am confused.

i just want some surf kids.
no poo. no onshores. no windblown chop.

oh yeah—it's spring. drat.

i agree with mexi, kasier, et al.
steamwand one WORD!! —TRUNKS.

true dat. the kona side is pretty much a bunch of people who moved from california. no escaping denny's, walmart and costco there. hilo's still pretty quirky though.

bikini. looks like that's what all the girls wear in the water these days. so now i guess i have to get in shape.
LOS-downer buddy. i'll try to find some beauty and bring only respect. i doubt it will be as hard as you make it sound.

My folks lived south of (way south) Kona for quite a while. There'll be a little surf here & there. There will be good fishing every day. Go hike Ka'u. There is so much to do once you leave the carp that is the town of Kona behind- you don't have my sympathy- some of the most amazing places in the world are between Kona & South Point & within 15 miles of the coast look around a little...

Steam- Kona will probs be small but you'll be able to get wet at a few places if you want. If a good south come's in it will hit town pretty well, so there is a chance. Kona is super fun when there is swell. The whole town feels festive.

The south side of the island will probs have some waves although I don't know the spots. Go check out the Waipio valley. It will probably be flat too, faces dead north, but one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. It will pop on google.

Got a house in Puenta Hermosa in Peru next week. Anyone have any input on "must hit" spots?

steam...

sorry to be specific re: my TRUNKS! comment.

any way you slice it bikini, trunks, birthday suit....
in hawaii people SWIM for fun (what a thought)
in the ocean...no wetsuits, no ice cream headaches,
wetsuit rash, stinky neoprene in the car...

warm water RULES!

Sort of repeating a late post from yesterday. Brummet's wipeout was horrendous. The over the falls trip was bad enough. I never saw his board again but someone on the bluff spotted some piece of it in the rocks. Looking back at my photos there were three big waves that followed his free fall. We finally saw him in the bone yard as one of the jet skis got to him. I thought he was clear but slipped off the back of the sled and got worked some more. You could tell it was heavy because there were three skis trying to get to him. When they finally did it looked like he was puking his guts out. This photo is after the first failed rescue attempt. Can you imagine the feeling seeing the skis rushing to the channel after the beating this guy took? I felt so sorry for him and it made me think of you Charging OB Chargers. I would be very pleased to grow old without losing any more friends, so be careful.

OB, Fall in Peru, Nice, you'll be in the thick of it. But don't expect to be alone, crowded. La Isla was my favorite spot.

Kaiser,
Sorry I can't say anything about that last pic, but people are welcome to speculate. I won't confirm though. I'll tell you next time I see you Kaiser.

On NPR this morning they were discussing a new specicies of humans that lived 16,000 years ago on a chain of Island off Sumatra. Interesting.

Thanks Mexi!
I've also surfed La Isla, and had a great time there. I haven't been to Penascal though, near San Bortolo. It's peaked my interest. Ever surfed there?

damn, chris ward..

nice shots bruce and mexi..

hating it

Mexi complete respect for the privacy on that. I have my thoughts....Is that surfer wearing boardies?

Ok, so, we all complain about exploitation and what not. Well, check out this graphic I just received via email a bit ago...

Dano-
Costa Rica, I am headed there at the end of the month, and don't have a place to stay yet.
What hotel does your friend own? If anyone else has any suggestions PLEASE let me know. It will be my lady and I and we were thinking of staying in the Malpias area. Thanks all

I agree, La Isla is fun. Also check caballeros and senioritas, they are in the Lima area. If ya have time go north, long and less crowded...chicmama, *******, and huanchaco is a cool town

e- a follow up to your morning thoughts on music (in yesterdays papers)... Wonder what death metal and reggae look/taste like?

Music has a flavour to woman who ‘tastes’ sounds

Music can be a mouth-watering experience for one Swiss musician who “tastes” combinations of notes as distinct flavours, according to a report in the science journal Nature.

The 27-year-old woman known as ES is a synaesthete, someone who experiences sensation in more than one sense from the same stimulation, researchers said on Wednesday.

When ES hears tone intervals, the difference in pitch between two tones, she not only can see the musical notes as different colours but also can taste the sounds.

“This is a special case of a musician who, when she hears tone intervals, she has a perception of a taste of a tone,” said psychologist Michaela Esslen, of the University of Zurich in Switzerland. “She doesn’t imagine the taste, she really tastes it.”

The case of ES reported in Nature is exceptional because seeing letters or digits in a certain colour is more common in synaesthesia. It may also involve seeing a musical tone as a colour.

But ES sees the colours and depending on the tone intervals a symphony could be bittersweet, salty, sour or creamy.

“Whenever she hears a specific musical interval, she automatically experiences a taste on her tongue that is consistently linked to that particular interval,” the scientists said in the journal.

They tested ES’s ability by applying solutions tasting sour, bitter, salty or sweet to her tongue and asking her to identify the tone intervals, a difficult task that requires musical training.

When the applied tastes corresponded with the intervals she was able to identify them quicker than other musicians. “We found that ES’s tone-interval identification was perfect,” the researchers said. reuters

Unfortunately, I am not going to have time to travel north. I'm going there with my g-friend, soon to be fiance (She's peruvian, and that's why I'm going to Peru, well and to surf ), so it's going to be a short, but sweet trip. I've surfed peru before, but I was just wanting to get some suggestions as to the better spots. I've seen many post about experiences and travel to peru. just putting the feelers out. Thanks for the info. Appreciated!

steamwand,

sorry, didn't check in until now. i'll shoot you an e-mail.

e, the mavs boat trip has been called off. sorry bro.

I surfed Kauai last summer and had fun waves every day. This June or July, I'm going to Maui and looking forward to it. There is always waist to head-high windswell from the trades and summer gets good souths as you have heard. It may not be the best Hawaii has to offer but it's good enough. I like walking to the beach at 6:30 am in just boardshorts and being comfortable. In the morning, the water is a little warmer than the air. When the wind starts to kick up, a short-sleeved rash guard is all you need to stay warm. You may find it favorable to rent a board while you are there rather than take your own. Call local shops ahead of the trip to get the deal. Rent a board for a week for about $80 or lug yours around and pay the airline about $80 and risk damage.

the woman who can taste sound! that's cool-as. thanks for posting Traut!

wow.. Kaiser. that is unbelievable.

lynch is a sell out.

keep your heads up till next fall.

Always suspicious that something was weird at evolution. Viewing their website confirms all.

on kauai visit Dr.Dings for an OK used board, then drop it back off when you are done for consignment again. kinda like renting but not.

Nice Photos Mexi, Bruce...I managed to get a few more up

Greg Long was killing it the other day

Here another View of Bruce's Zack Wormhoundt Bomb
I think Bagel is right...

jesus look at the left on that one

Wayne Lynch was probably the most gifted surfer of the shortboard revolution. heck out the movie Evolution and transport yourself back to the day when most people were surfing 9' logs and trying to hang 10.

test

For my two hours on the bluff I only saw a couple of guys go left. But the lefts were sick phat hollow top-to-bottom spitting caverns (shudder).

Hanalei, sure do miss that place.

shoutout to hb and blackark.com... irie!

Another HI ?. I Just got the tax refund back so im ready to make the honeymoon purchase. Should we spend most of our time on Lahaina, Maui or koloa, Kauai (south shore)? Other suggestions?? Keep in mind that I can't surf the entire time- just half the time.

Traut, wife and I did the south shore Kauai honeymoon and I highly recommend it. Tons of great stuff to do besides surfing and an incredible island and really nice people. We got a sick south swell while there and it pumped. I'll never live down the fact that the final day of the trip I surfed through sunset (had to it was so pretty out there in the water) while the wife sat on the beach. Oops!

Steamwand, i don't know you at all but your comments come off pretty pathetic and very selfish. You surfed Kauai last summer, going to Kona, Maui in July....come fucking on. Think of the thousands of people that can't even afford/have the time to fly to see their family, let alone a tropical island. Be stoked. Be stoked about your friends milestone. Be stoked for someone else rather than thinking just about your sorry self.

Sorry for the downer... your right JOC, gotta get some irie at blackark on this dreary Friday and get on with it!

Niceness weekend!

Look for me in the Examiner tomorrow. I run a little Ecology club here (we plant native trees and plants, maintaine a garden and go camping) at my school and PG&E donated 4 trees to us. Four trees and they bring with them a freaking caravan of media! Joke! And to add insult to injury.... they bring Eucaliptus trees.

Well, the judges were on the right in the channel, right? So going left probably wasn't a big win. Lunchtime: OB had juice, but was too wacky for me.

E, add spell check to this thing.

Public Service Annoucement:

A newly developing NPAC storm started to blow up in intensity late on Friday. What looked like a moderate system is now showing nearly 55-60+ knots of wind on the satellites. With all of this new energy being thrown around it looks like we are going to see some good-sized swell for both Hawaii and California. Hawaii will see these new waves early this upcoming week and California will follow a few days behind. California won't have to wait till mid-week for waves though...a smaller but much closer system is currently spinning just off the coast and is promising to send in a healthy short/medium period W swell for Monday...weather may be an issue but waves will definitely be on the way up.

Also, to all you Mavs Heads out there, keep an eye out for me on the lefts. I just ordered up a new board that they dropped off at my crib this morning. I won't be out for a few days 'cause I need to wax it. Check it out:

hb, i just posted my e-mail address so if you wanted to attack me you could have written me rather than airing it on this forum. since you haven't posted yours, i will respond here.
yeah you don't know me. in my initial post i totally acknowledged that i was being a brat, and i was kinda just teasing that i wasn't that stoked. of course, i know that i am totally lucky and i am thrilled to be travelling tropical paradise, but it is a load of cash to drop, and i work at a non-profit so i don't make a ton of money and i don't have a lot of vacation time. i quite honestly will be bummed if there's no real surf anywhere near where i'm staying. and yes, that means that i am a self-indulgent, self-centered surfer. i am obsessed by surfing (and i'm not even that good at it.) i wish i could totally let my entire life revolve around it. i think alot of us sorta feel that way. and deal with it however we can/decide to.

i didn't post that comment about kauai and maui. i think that person was responding to me. but i have been to both islands and i know that i am really lucky and i try to acknowledge my privilege and give back as much as i can in all sorts of ways, i.e. tutoring little kids, which i need to go do now, giving guys whose cars got stolen rides to the beach from oaktown, keeping my surfrider subscription up to date. so take it easy, bro.

the main point of posting was try to get a little more of a feel for what i could expect on big island kona side at that time of year from those who know. thank you so much to those of you who shared.

and maybe sometime we will meet and share waves, hb, and you won't think i'm such a jerk. niceness out.

Mexi,

Too bad about the Eucalyptus trees. I guess you had to plant them since the media was there. Are you going to pull them out? In addition to being non-native, they've got a host of other things that can cause problems : http://www.everything2.com/index.pl?node=eucalyptus

kloo- thanks for the info. im destined to make the same mistake as you....

hb and steamwand, seems like you're both righteous, just a little electronic miscommunication. i'm sure it's all good and niceness.

here's some more:

with Kaiser's swell forecast and the woman who can taste music... i'd say it's a good day in niceness land.

We planted the Eucaliptis far away from the native plant garden, but it was a bummer. Earlier this year the kids and I spent a few days pulling non-natives ncluding small Eucaliptis from San Bruno Mountain.

Jakestah, sign me up for that. Just tell me when you took them, I'll figure the rest out from there....

does a woman who can taste music give a better hummer?

taste sound, screw it, right now i'd like to taste a beer!! g. love concert tonite, oh yeah.

coming soon kaiserstah.com's surf report??

just saw 3to5's post....oh man....time to clean the coffee off my monitor....

a gentleman never tells stories after school.

one more to get you stoked for a weekend of sun and waves (hopefully!):

steamwand and hb... here's wishin' a few of these to both of you core niceness heads.

Namibia

Understand now that you said those other posts weren't from you.

Oooooh those rights, nice pics!! Man, we might need to argue again if that is what comes out of it!

Steamwand, U R correct. I was responding to you. HB, After I complete my world surf tour this May with Slates and a few of the boys, I'll stop down in your neck of the woods and complain about the waves and company ;^) I just can't find a shallow enough reef on a big day.

MJS - I just got back from Mal Pais. Stayed at the Tropico Latino and Luz de Vida. Can give you more info if you want. Saw several other places as well. What's your email?

MZA. my email is mschoony at hotmai.com

Thanks, any info helps, it is my first trip to costa rica

Surf Rape. Art Rape. Wave Rape. People Rape. Culture Rape. Cali Rape. Island Rape.

buy ORGANIC

some jackarse in a tin can tried to run me off the road on the great highway today....

Surf Rape. Art Rape. Wave Rape. People Rape. Culture Rape. Cali Rape. Island Rape.

It's that time of year again. got some mediocre chesthighs and was glad. Fall is a long ways away...mebbe that derrik d surfcamp has some merit.

i just got dropped in by 40 guys at once!

http://www.cnn.com/2005/SPORT/03/06/surf.record.ap/index.html

O
O
O

I'mmmmmmm cominnnnng.

called Tramadol to a down that relaxation. is causing is headaches. class of system dilated your http://www.painsolace.org in nervous central slow nerve constrict that to vessels tension blood and Caffeine may believed contribute impulses) (brain