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still thumping...

Kinda like the Junior Varsity squad of waves out there this morning, compared to the last two days. Still some solid beat-downs and punishment.. but maybe 15 or 20 people out there as opposed to the 4 or 5 hell-chargers of days past. Even my whimpy, small-sacked, mini-wave-liking self made it out there. Right around 7:15 Kaiser and i watched a remarkable ride where some shredder linked 3 or 4 top to bottom turns on an impressive DOH wave. Fuck yeah! Heaps of wipe-outs too as i noticed that the skill-level wasn't necessarily that high. For every shredder there was someone bobbling their way over the falls on a brand-new gun. I watched one hilarious sequence where a nice peak rose up amidst a little crowd of 5 or 6 guys.. One guy was in position but you could tell he was a little hesitant.. but then he called another guy off and then started to commit himself but at the very last second pulled back.. but way too late and he ended up going over the falls big time. I actually saw him careening down down down inside this huge, churning, gnarly barrel. The guy that got called off was bumming because the wave was beautiful.

Thanks again goodmorning for hooking that 7'6" board. that thing ruled today. I caught 5 or 6 and then called it a sesh. Had a few kooky ones where i wasn't quite balanced but also had some memorable drops and carves. Surrrfff!

good to meet Kdalle! Charging it on his 10ft Coffey with the inch-wide stringer. beauty board.

Organic photos of Southern Cali beachbreak
Judith?

booger mega-spray

Roarghhh!!!

So Cal

Seth photo of Daily Dale Wavestar

E, nice work getting out there. Next time I will give you some company.

I am out, headed down the coast in search of some nuggets.

Have a good weekend all....

Posted by: Kaiser at January 21, 2005 10:37 AM

http://www.surfvid.com/video/122304.wmv

In case some of you missed this post from yesterday. Any of you wanna show yourselves?

I am off at 1pm and perfectly planned for a neg low tide lonng session.

Irrrrrrrriiiiiiie!

Posted by: Hb at January 21, 2005 11:07 AM

http://www.surfvid.com/video/122304.wmv

In case some of you missed this post from yesterday. Any of you wanna show yourselves?

I am off at 1pm and perfectly planned for a neg low tide lonng session.

Irrrrrrrriiiiiiie!

Posted by: Hb at January 21, 2005 11:09 AM

Good to shed my excuses and finally get back out there. Must have surfed near you e, as I talked with Kdalle as I dressed. Doof and I both got thumped once or twice on the way out but got there without too much drama. Waves were certainly less dramatic than they have been the last few days, but still, you would be surprized at who was denied entry.

I had a new suit on and felt like I had made a mistake chosing too big a suit. I had water coming in the neck and filling up my arms. Once I got out a guy pointed out my problem. I had velcroed up without zipping up. What a kook!

That guy had been denied at once and had to relaunch down the beach.

Doof and I both caught from 5 to 8 rides, none mindblowing. At least for me I felt more like I was getting reaquainted to that size, than actually surfing well. A good warm-up session.

Posted by: friend #1 at January 21, 2005 11:10 AM

Alright I posted this on the 19th late, but I'll continue it.
I didn't have a gun for todays conditions at OB. MORE IMPORTANTLY, I don't have the balls for it. However, knowing the swell would be pumping today I did the multi-point stop from SC to SLO, then to as dsx was wishing, low-tide Rincon tomorrow. Got Pleasure Point on the low tide at first peak with only about 10 people, wow. I still managed to get dropped in on by some 16 year old super grom. I grabbed his rail and pushed him up the lip, not consciously, just kinda instinctively. Driving through beautiful 70 degree Big Sur I saw about 30 whales during the drive sprouting and feeding on huge schools of fish. Saw a few breach the surface, insane. Unbelievable watching all that energy smash into sheer cliffs. Around the bend from Carmel I sat at one point and watched as what looked to be 20+ ft. faces heave onto dry reef/cliffs. I saw two tow teams doing gnarly tow-ins at filthy and raw Moss Landing. Pretty nuts. Good on every one who sacked up and lucked out on the paddle at OB today. I wish I had a digi for todays little escapade. I'll try and do a little update once I get back.

Then yesterday.. Headed South from SLO at about 9, Surfed Gaviota pier by myself, but noticed people walking down with their boards. Cool I thought, I wouldn't mind a little company. Turns out they were just waiting on the pier for their boat ride to some secret spot. About 30 min. later, 3 girls come down and hopped on another boat. I was bumming, I wished someone woulda swooped me up. Oh well, surf for about an hour, head on down. Yeah, so have any of you ever wanted to see the world series of surfing? No, not the Vans triple crown. I'm talking about an overhead, glassy, low-tide, sunny, hot, perfect day at Rincon. That place has the most intense jock mentality, aggressive place ever. Every single wave had three guys on it. People were dropping in deliberately, others were ditching their boards. Insane! I wonder how many boards get thrashed on a daily basis from other people there? This place was WAY worse than any of the points in SC. Out of all the kook maneuvers though, I didn't hear a single person getting heckled. I was blown away. Up North I don't think any of that would fly. Well I couldn't handle that circus, so I hit it after about an hour and a half. I remember passing a sick looking point break set up on the way down with some heads on it, so I figured I'd check it again. Pull off at El Capitan. Perfect head high, glassy waves wrapping around the point. The only problem.. Thos waves were literally breaking about 6 inches over the rocks. Long story short, or, shorter at least, the vibe was WAY better, people were hooting for each other, and actually respected when someone else was on a wave. Saw some people get some serious smack-downs ONTO the boulders on the inside. I finally sacked up and just paddled to the indicator peak and started ignoring the rocks on the inside. One of my most favorite seshies. Topped off with an crazy sunset, and about 8 porpoises cruising about 30 feet from us. It was dark and there still about 15-20 guys out. All in all, it felt damn good to get off my lazy ass and explore. At least now I can say I've surfed a few other spots, especially Rincon, since I'll probably never go back. Glad I wasn't around for all the harsh punishment laid down at the beach over the last few days.

Posted by: Ian at January 21, 2005 12:31 PM

good to hear stories of waves. i was landlocked and pretty close to as far away from any major body of water that you can think of in the continential USA. I'm not going to name names, but just so you can get an idea... west of the mississippi, south of montana, north of texas but still in conservative cowboy country.

long story short.. no waves. missed big wednesday. but glad to be back in the mix. getting close to a whole month out of the water. weird. feels good, but i would have loved to be there two days ago.

heres to february giving us one more high pressure over idaho and utah and a nice swell.

february will have to be surf month for me.

cheers to all that got some screamers.

Posted by: elias at January 21, 2005 01:31 PM

Shouldda, wouldda, probably couldn'ta. Drove a bit south but it looked lame, small, close-outty, unshapely. Back to OB, and found a couple spots I might've been able to deal with, but zero surfers were out (9:15-ish), including the most popular mid-beach spots---zero! today! A couple of heads north end, and lots and lots and lots at Sloat. I watched some great rides, many fun-looking drops, and a bit of kookery, but didn't feel up to trying it myself. Maybe this arvonoon.

Posted by: kloo at January 21, 2005 01:33 PM

kloo, good seeing you out there. You too, Korewin. Charge! I ended up getting a wave, then getting caught by a big set, getting mauled twice with a calf cramp, and putting my tail between my legs and going home...was good while it lasted, though.

Posted by: blakestah at January 21, 2005 07:13 PM

Hey guys,
Want a good surfboard?
Reliable?....
I've been shaping for the last 4 years.
I help some big shapers in So Cal.
Here is the price:
Starting at $299.00 plus tax for shortboards and for bigger boards add about 50 to 100 bucks more.
Fishes, Fun boards and more...
You want artwork like Lost Surfboards?. I got IT.
I've been painting with the posca pens for years and my artwork compares to Drew Brophy's or Lost Designs.
I will take about 3 to 4 days to finish your board.
I use Clark foams, Hexel fiberglass, Suncure resin or regular laminating and sanding resin.
Also I make Acid Splashes on the boards, as well as resin tint.
Here are some pictures.
If interested email me and I will send you some pictures of my stuff.
I'm sorry that the website isn't up yet.
You could visit Customsurfboards.net for more info.
You can find my boards at Aqua Surf Shop, The Log Shop and SF Surf Shop( Thanks John!)..

Posted by: Rich at January 23, 2005 10:34 AM

OH, I forgot..
Herer is my email. rich@ricklandsurfboards.com

Posted by: at January 23, 2005 10:36 AM


Giorgio de Chirico

Posted by: cadaver at January 23, 2005 04:52 PM

Good seeing you too, blakestah. That session was frustrating for me surf-wise; a lot of kooking and only one or two eh rides. Saturday morning session went much better, and this afternoon was soooo much fun.

Posted by: kloo at January 23, 2005 05:44 PM

recommended viewing:

http://surfhumor.com/Photos%2016.htm

Posted by: (bruce fan) at January 23, 2005 09:06 PM

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