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Wind, waves, wild, wooly.

Flags cracking viciously in the stiff offshores.
Loping, sizeable NorPac chunk-o-waves pulsing and pumping.
Not as large as yesterday, or so it seemed.
Deceptively attractive conditions.
No surfers within my purview.
Outer bar eruptions.
Mountainous white-water cacophony.
Mind-surfing the wind-whipped monsters:
Take off super-deep on the largest of large-ass outer-outer-bar set wave mackers.
9ft rhino-chaser pointed strait down into the banshee-shrieking infinite abyss.
Eyes watering while speeding down mammoth wall.
Reach the bottom and gast gaze back up onto ginormous, critical, feathering creature from the deep.
Long, drawn-out, mach-speed, board-chattering, rounded bottom turn up into the pit.
20 feet above, a huge, meaty slab careens overhead.
Tubulation!
Gigantor, vaulted, cathedral barrel.
Time stands still as I stand tall and exist in the thundering now.
Pinprick exit of daylight at the distant end of the green room.
A dolphin leaps out ahead and guides the way.
A giggling leprechaun rides the back of the dolphin.
The leprechaun leaps from the dolphin's back onto me and it’s giggle turns to a snarl.
Tiny, lustful leprechaun fangs snap and chomp down on my arm.
Fucking rabid leprechaun trying to ruin my master-barrel.
The leprechaun continues to chomp away but I follow the dolphin toward the light.
Spit triumphantly out of the barrel’s bowels I grab the leprechaun by the throat and toss him aside.
I cast my arms up in a full claim!!

A few dope Stinkeye photos (tuffproductions.com)
stinkeye niceness

stinkeye niceness

stinkeye niceness

check out cliffhouseproject.com

Cherrio, Charging Chargers of Chargeness who charge the chargable chargers! Just charged a charging Cortez Bank in a panda suit...yeah, a panda suit. Nevermind the fact that I'm a four-time amputee, I refuse to let a chargable wave go uncharged by the charging torso that is me, the charging chargeness of charge. Charged into a macking 73 footer using a dislocated jaw, wiggling ears, and a fecal power thruster...I needed the extra boost 'cause Laird needed a tow (he's so minor!). Charged into a Bottom turn, hit the lip, jumped the whirlpool, and finished with a headstand spinning robot dance (you know, for the ladies...). Got it all on film too! My IMAX is coming out this June...It's called "Episode IV, Mavs Charging Charger: Cookies and Creme". It's a think-piece about a young vagabond's coming of age, who's only way off the streets is to go indoors.
Anyway, after charging a few more chargables, I charged up to the mountains. The polar bears fire RPG's into the cornices while I drop in on the massive avalanches that follow. It's fun, but hard to make the sections when your ridin' a plastic saucer...but don't worry, I charged it like a good charger should. CHARGE!!!

Posted by: Mavs Charging Charger at January 20, 2005 10:56 AM

1863

This second Cliff House burned in 1906

Where's all the sand

Buffalo Bill and his Wild West Show

Sutro Baths early 1900s

Ocean Boulevard early 1900s

Posted by: blakestah at January 20, 2005 11:07 AM

OK, so I don't hate the MCC so much anymore.

Posted by: friend #1 at January 20, 2005 11:13 AM

mavs charging charger for president!

Posted by: e at January 20, 2005 11:16 AM

I have a question - was the climate in San Francisco different in the early 1900's than it is today?

Look at all of those people on the beach! I've noticed this in other pictures from that era as well. Can you imagine spending the day at the old pier and amusement park on a cold, foggy, windblown summer afternoon?

Posted by: at January 20, 2005 11:19 AM

talk about kelly's cove local boys

Posted by: bbr at January 20, 2005 11:21 AM

was that you at Sloat this am BBR, i saw 3 spongers out there getting a majority of the waves.

Posted by: dsx at January 20, 2005 11:25 AM

nah, i came in late to work the last two days, decided to be a good boy and skip the session today

Posted by: bbr at January 20, 2005 11:28 AM

chomsky interview from democracynow.org

blip of excitement for me.. peter singer just emailed webmaster@sierraclub.org (i check that address).. he's THE MAN in many philosophy circles.. he was looking for a report the sierra club did on factory farms. fark yeah!

Posted by: e at January 20, 2005 11:33 AM

anyone know the story on that skytram? was it mostly for amusement, or was it used for transportation? where did it start/stop? and what led to its removal?

http://www.cliffhouseproject.com/history/skytram/Sftram.jpg

Posted by: loon at January 20, 2005 11:38 AM

"Cookies and Creme..." - Classic post. Add it to the classics list.

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2005 11:44 AM

The chomsky movie that was playing at the Vic was pretty good. My first intro to chomsky. Quite an impressive guy.

Posted by: traut at January 20, 2005 11:45 AM

Posted by: skytram at January 20, 2005 11:46 AM

Bombs comin' in today. I DP'd a cove with a nice reef setup, perfect for my wannabee fishy board. Fun long rides while the rest of the south bay was closing out.

Speaking of which, super GREAT article on the fish evolution and revolution. Cool ass vid too, can't wait to run that down when it comes out.

http://allaboutsurf.com/0501/articles/hydrodynamica/index.php

Posted by: Hb at January 20, 2005 11:52 AM

Was it for this?

Posted by: at January 20, 2005 12:05 PM

let me know if anyone's interested in a 7'6" Mandala Singlefin. It's 8 months old so it's in good condition. There're adds & pics on Swaylock's & craigslist (don't have the pics with me) and Manuel has it on his site too - mandalacustomshapes.com/singlefins.html (the whitish board). Hope it's OK to mention it here. Beautiful board so thought I'd get the word out. thanks

Posted by: gb at January 20, 2005 12:23 PM

let me know if anyone's interested in a 7'6" Mandala Singlefin. There're adds & pics on Swaylocks.com & craigslist.com, and Manuel has it on his site too - mandalacustomshapes.com/singlefins.html (the whitish board). Hope it's OK to mention it here. nice board anyway. thanks

Posted by: gb at January 20, 2005 12:26 PM

you want $560 for a used single fin?

Posted by: blakestah at January 20, 2005 12:30 PM

I saw a sponger get the most incredible, deep, sick, outrageous barrel this morning near the zoo.

Blakestah, how about a quick lecture on the outer, outer bar. Has it ever been surfed? Anyone know what the depth is out there? Pretty weird seeing it break yesterday, at least for me.

A couple organic shots from last night:


Posted by: Bruce at January 20, 2005 12:31 PM

Anyone surf today?

Posted by: at January 20, 2005 12:39 PM

Bruce, those aren't organic, sweet.

Posted by: mexi at January 20, 2005 12:40 PM

Paddled out this morning.

Was denied, despite being very close to the outside 3 times.

While getting dressed, I see two people make an "easy" paddled to the crowd beyond the breakers.

Sigh.

Posted by: Duncan aka Mr Doof at January 20, 2005 01:21 PM

Damn Bruce, those are some nice shots. Makes it look really fun out there.

But, I am sure those that choose to paddle it might say otherwise.

I gotta get some tomorrow. I HAVE TO GET WET!

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2005 01:27 PM

climate prob'ly the same back than, they all wore wool suits and shit.

Posted by: j at January 20, 2005 01:47 PM

Duncan is this you??

http://www.paulferraris.com/personal/gra/dec003.jpg"

Posted by: mexi at January 20, 2005 01:54 PM

what's the word on the beach? thinking about an arvo (still wtf does that mean) anyone out today?

s.s. sharkbait how about a near real time update?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 20, 2005 01:56 PM

I've heard 2nd and 3rd hand tales of people paddling out there to surf, but it being impossibly inconsistent in peak position.

Before the El Nino year of 97/8, it took 13 ft 17 seconds to make it break, and there was only one peak, off Judah, that broke. The El Nino year it changed, and with the enormous amounts of swell the outer outer bars lined with whitewater from Kellys to Sloat. Probably be okay for tow-ins, and there are certainly some windsurfers who have explored it. It breaks now, at 10 ft 17 sec on a low tide.

I got a bad case of "need to work all day and then watch the kids" today. It's okay, got some yesterday, going tomorrow.

Posted by: blakestah at January 20, 2005 01:57 PM

Absolutely that is Duncan. The real question is why didn't you shoot the good looking guy who went right on that wave??

Posted by: blakestah at January 20, 2005 01:58 PM

Pics from yesterday - http://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/11905ob&page=all

Posted by: Louis at January 20, 2005 01:59 PM

I can testify as to the pounding Doof took this morning trying to get out. At one point he had it and a nasty set rolled through. I often wonder how the famous "watermen" in Hawaii would do on a DOH+ December morning at OB.

Posted by: Bruce at January 20, 2005 01:59 PM

I'll get you Stah, in due time...

Posted by: mexi at January 20, 2005 02:03 PM

go home tranzees! achtung!

Posted by: OB OG at January 20, 2005 02:04 PM

Duncan,
By chance did I meet you in Peru about 5 years or so ago???

Posted by: Mexi at January 20, 2005 02:12 PM

I sold the singlefin. $560 is a lot but it's almost new. It's $640 new.

Posted by: gb at January 20, 2005 02:37 PM

I was going to paddle out, but then it occurred to me that these are really big waves and I suck. What also sucks is a bunch of days of epic surf with no surfing. If anyone can suggest a place to hide from the swell a bit tomorrow, or wants to join an excursion leaving SF about 9am. I will be your best friend . . . (klooless at gmail.com)

Great pictures, by the way---Ankors, Bruce, Chuck, Mexi, . . .

Posted by: kloo at January 20, 2005 02:50 PM

Mexi---->

Yes, this is me:

Friend #1 point it out to me one day and I sent you an email about it.

In fact, I believe I met you in person yesterday and shook your hand.

Please note, there is another fellow out riding the waves with a bird red board like me. In fact, I saw that he got out there today and scored some waves while I was sent packing.

Posted by: Duncan aka Mr Doof at January 20, 2005 02:53 PM

Mexi--->I have not been to Peru, so you did not meet me there.

Posted by: Duncan at January 20, 2005 02:55 PM

sick shot mexi and doof!! rad!

nice bottom turn doof. that's a photo to show the grandkids!

Posted by: e at January 20, 2005 03:21 PM

I wasn't sure if you were the same Duncan, and meeting you yesterday is why I thought i recognized you from Peru... Anyway, nice meeting you...

Posted by: mexi at January 20, 2005 03:28 PM

Kloo: have prior commitment, but possibly maybe...email, if no reply, I can't go, but if yes...suuurf

OB! swell down...maybe a whopping 2 1/2 feet. Still seeing lines of long period scariness out to sea. Bombs aplenty, though extra peaky fickle and CRUUUNCHY right now from where I'm looking at....kaboom! .... Also warblier overall. Best luck will probably be at usual suspect spots, but what do I know? That outer outer bar not breaking anymore.Sloppier on the inside than yesterday, no more screaming offshores, hazy. No takers w/in eyesight but....? Must take dog out, can update if I farked this one up

Question: anyone have a bright idea where to stash an albuterol inhaler in a wetsuit? Minor asthma lately, yes I mean even in 2 foot "waves." [ note: *not* a result from looking at ob TOH and vicariously freaking ;) ] Would prefer not to lose too many of those inhaler thingees via experiment. Thanks!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 20, 2005 03:31 PM

I witnessed a beautiful TOH left barrel this am around 8:30. Whoever it was made it look so easy. The steep drop from the peak was smooth with a wide arcing bottom turn continuing up the face and right behind the curtain for a second or two. Came out standing straight up and dry. Nice!

Posted by: Dennis at January 20, 2005 03:35 PM

sharkbait was that you yesterday morning... the blondie watching the dawn patrol at 1st lot sloat? for some reason i was expecting some old haggard sea biscuit and you were ummm.... pretty cute.

Posted by: inquiring minds want to know at January 20, 2005 03:42 PM

SS, you could stash the inhaler in the forearm of your suit, and use a watchband on the outside of your suit to keep that arm closed, so it won't easily fall out. Velcro would be a good idea on the band so it is easy to take off when inhaler is needed.

Just an idea, I have never tried that myself as I don't inhale.


Posted by: friend #1 at January 20, 2005 03:47 PM

what friend #1 suggested. or maybe if there's a way to tie the inhaler to your wetsuit zipper pull thingy and tuck that into the neck/back of the suit? i do that with my key.

Posted by: j at January 20, 2005 03:52 PM

Just back, what a frigging session - started in at the south end, nice calm paddle, hoping I could sneak out unnoticed - no such luck.

Took insane amount of waves on the head - probing left, right - just trying to find a window. Long story short, leg cramp and leash coming undone I decided to head in and re strategize. Turned and caught a wave in – turns out I am in the middle right by Judah – Christ. Check watch nearly 1hr fighting the sodding waves.

Trudge back – fix leash – many deep breaths and I head out again in front of the peanut gallery – head down, full steam ahead – make it out in 10 mins, and have a fantastic session. Christ those waves had some speed on them today – felt like I was flying. What a session.

Having trouble writing this, as my eyeballs feel like they have been bathed in acid.

(Fellow sponger that I encouraged out for a second try – hope you made it! Watched you through the bino’s for about 30 mins – 10/10 for effort!)

What a day….

Posted by: ankors at January 20, 2005 05:33 PM

Hey thanks for suggestions re: inhaler. Was thinking forearm but watchband idea sounds good.

Dennis I saw that guy, or 2 different guys, 2 days in a row...fark! TOH standing barrels, drawing such a high line it seemed like levitation. As deceptively relaxed looking as Fred Astaire's dancing. I thought I was hallucinating. Good grief how is that possible.

Posted by: s.s. o.h.s.b at January 20, 2005 06:30 PM

Got up at 5:30 and took da' wife to the airport for her flight to a conference in Colorado. Shot a hundred photos at the zoo and then went to work. Rocky (the dog) and I are toast. Photos from this morning are on the site. ankors got it right. What a day. What a great place to live.

Posted by: Bruce at January 20, 2005 09:05 PM

this dude is STOKED!

Posted by: blakestah at January 20, 2005 09:12 PM

Another way to stash kit is with a small nylon fanny pack. I did it once with a disposable waterproof camera. Kinda tough because you have to be right on it to avoid planet of the ant men syndrom, and what do you do with a camera when you have to paddle fast! Inhaler no problemo, just sit outside, do your thing, stash it and surf.

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Posted by: online poker at January 20, 2005 10:19 PM

ss sharkbait:::
I have a friend up north with asthma.He customizes his wetsuit sleeve by cutting a round hole just the size of the inhaler. I have seen him come up after a long PA hold down and grab some inhale He has not lost any

Posted by: snrfr at January 20, 2005 10:20 PM

blakestah- is that you?

Posted by: bobby at January 20, 2005 10:41 PM

I didn't surf on the 20th - not me.

Posted by: blakestah at January 21, 2005 06:52 AM

What happened yesterday with the site? Tried to log in but it said I needed a password. Then today you can get in???

Anyone in the last 2-3 days using a board as small as 7'4" ?
I think I am going to get something in that size, if it could handle size like yesterday..

Posted by: cbarney at January 21, 2005 08:02 AM

Looking at that pic a little more, it reminds me a lot of Danny Hess...wonder if he was out there.

Posted by: blakestah at January 21, 2005 09:10 AM

freaking sick sponger sequence bruce!!!

Posted by: bbr at January 21, 2005 09:29 AM

speaking of chargers:

mavs yesterday and weds.
a moderate, good day.
big thing this year seems to be smaller boards.
yesterday, doc was breaking out a fish. looked to be ~8'. i saw him get a sm left on it. today grant was showing me his new 7'8".
ryan, charging on the yellow board in this video, broke his board on the last wave wipeout.
the guy on the tow board is jc. i don't know what's up with that. i thought they had outlawed motor entries there?
http://www.surfvid.com/video/012005.wmv

also, ob from 11/23.
http://www.surfvid.com/video/122304.wmv

go get some.lp

Posted by: lp at January 21, 2005 10:01 AM

hi please check out my new site,
www.nitroagogo.com
everything surfing, dragracing, & bikinis from the 50s & 60s...
kustom stuff designed from these inspiring backgrounds....
thanx all! enjoy your day!!!
i love this site by the way! beautiful pictures!!!!

Posted by: Jeff's wife at January 24, 2005 03:31 PM
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