Freezing, small and empty.
An arctic, offshore NE wind whipped down from the snowy Sierras this morning… or at least seemed to. Fingers numb before even entering the aqua. Lerm and I suited up and decided to surf site unseen. Up over the highway and onto the beach and a glassy, peeling, resweetulous head-high set funneled and beckoned! WTF!! Into the water and we never saw waves like that again the entire session. Ghost set I guess. Nevertheless fun times in the waist/shoulder-high windswell nothings. East-coast style. Nobody around. No noticeable bovine sharkbait. Small wave revelry. Micro-surfing. Chilling. No consequences. No duckdives. Most injuries supposedly occur on the smaller days, in shallow water. We found a quasi-sandbar that offered some peaky lefts. Lerm trimmed down the line on some long slow ones. I found some blippy little pockets and kookishly attempted to get up to the lip. Surfing is fun.
Exploration… North-of-the-gate hikes… Newfoundland Sea-Plane… North of Gnaraloo wombat cookoff… Seychelles on the right swell… “I’d like to spend some time in Mozambique… the sunny skies are aqua blue.. and all the couples dancing cheek to cheek”… Cape Verde desert island… Viking Faroe islands in a dry suit… Columbia… Grenada or St Lucia on the right hurricane… Falkland Island penguin jaunt… outer Hawaiian reef reconnaissance. Sitka… Glacier Bay National Park… Halifax Nova Scotia Lobster Lounge.. Tunisia… Oman Oh Man..
It’s out there..
Lindy this morning

a betty wears no wetty at the jetty

from fluidzone.com



photos from kirikou.com




chill today didn't compare to x-mas eve in rhode island. nor did the waves. 40 degree air, 40 degree water. riding shoulder to head high offshore waves at a remote spot on a ben aipa 70's single fin, wing-bump, swallow tail with no leash plug bought by my brother at a yard sale for three bucks. talk about knowing you're alive.
Posted by: steamwand at January 13, 2005 10:50 AMright on Steamwand.. sounds like fun!
Posted by: e at January 13, 2005 10:53 AMAnybody seen the Timmy Turner film, "Second Thoughts?" Any good?
Posted by: sea scum at January 13, 2005 11:01 AMin case you didn't see this yesterday.
Plenty of whales have washed up. And headless seals, bearded men, old gravestones and wrecked sailboats.
But never -- before Tuesday afternoon, that is -- could anyone remember a cow surfacing along Ocean Beach's 2½-mile stretch.
Just after 4 p.m., Park Police received reports that a smallish dead black cow was curled up on Ocean Beach, between Quintara and Santiago streets. The bovine had what appeared to be shark bites in its right shoulder and stomach areas.
"We have no idea where he came from or how he got here," said Chris Powell of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. "My guess is we'll never know."
As the sun set Tuesday, the cow was marooned on the sandy shore and baffled dog walkers said they had never seen anything like it.
"Where did it come from?" Peter Pirolli asked. "Where is the nearest cow pasture?"
Pirolli's girlfriend, Jacqueline LeBlanc, blamed the stormy weather.
"There is always something dead on the beach after a big rain," she said.
Powell speculated that it may have come from Marin County or from the Central Valley. It could have become disoriented in the torrential downpour and wound up in the Delta or fallen off the Marin headlands, Powell said.
United States park rangers will bury the cow today.
Buffy Maguire, who owns Java Beach Café at Judah Street and the Great Highway, said speculation in the coffee shop ran from "aliens to devil worshippers."
"There are a lot of weird rituals on the beach," she said.
Marine biologist Joseph Ayers, who used to teach at UC Santa Cruz and now heads a program at Northeastern University in Boston, said cows were "buoyant," but still he was baffled.
"It sounds like a mad cow," he said. "It is really odd to have something like that out in the water. That is an astounding thing to hear."
Sunset historian Steve LaBounty said cows once resided at nearby Fort Funston -- but that was 100 years ago.
"I can't say I've heard of any farm animals showing up there lately," he said.
Posted by: lerm at January 13, 2005 11:04 AMsurfing? ya, props to the guys who've been out there sailing the open seas..i think all that finding a secret reef on a boat fantasys that ive had are shot now as i dont even like to wash my car..a good one from steamwand:
When you do connect with 'The Spot' there is a chance you'll be sharing it with 3 French Guys wearing gold banana hammocks and day glow reef booties, yoikes!
But no matter where, be it seasonal river mouth point breaks in Japan, isolated slab reefs in central Baja, or the most isolated rock in the South Pacific some Feral Australian 'Surf Bastard' will emerge, sickly, blinking and puking to declare it the "The Best Farkin' Day Ever!"
those guys rule..
Posted by: bagel at January 13, 2005 11:05 AMhey all, back in the weblog thing.
happy new year and happy chill faktor.
hopefully this year will provide some warm water.
and some waves.
and some fun.
good to know some peeps are getting waves.
"second thoughts" is good, if your turn the sound off. when t.turner talks its like listening to a spoiled whiny child.
"we had to walk, like a mile to the break, every day"
must be rough.... though the surfing is awesome and the waves are faster than all get-out.
peace all.
Posted by: elias at January 13, 2005 11:07 AMshit sorry that was SEAROOM (quote above)
Posted by: bagel at January 13, 2005 11:09 AMAnyone ever surf in Moorea? Kicking around the idea of going there.
Posted by: obsurfer at January 13, 2005 11:10 AMthat fluidzone pic....hope he has a good chiropractor.
re: the cows....up north we have cows that actually enjoy bodysurfing. this poor bovine was probably just out surfing solo and encountered some problems, maybe hit his head on a rock or something. RIP cow homey.
seascum - i got 2nd thoughts for Christmas. it's decent. i'm a fan of the 'adventure' style flicks a la olas and siestas, etc.....but timmy turner's commentary is painful to listen to. if he was home schooled his parents should be embarassed, if he went to a public school my tax money is not being used well. for all those that bag on slater for being unintelligent, blah blah blah you need to listen to turner commentate. of course if you turn it off and put on your own soundtrack you miss the story behind it. maybe he should insert a book so you can follow along at home but listen to something other than him.
Posted by: j at January 13, 2005 11:15 AMThat first pic is of Marco and I sharing a peak just north of the bathrooms this morning. We hit that shizz right after throwin down some Moon's Over MyHammy at Denny's. Bob, or whatever his name was, of 20 years Denny's service experience, made our feast an enjoyable one. We were all fueled up so we hit that shizz and killed it.
Glad it wasn't too big.....
Nah, really, there was hardly a wave today. Seriously. The surf is absent today.
Posted by: Kaiser at January 13, 2005 11:17 AMalthough i do love the french boys in their banana hammocks and day glow reef booties. they charge!
does AS sell his photos? AS?
Posted by: steamwand at January 13, 2005 11:18 AM9-10:30 Slizz was not uncrowded; plenty of small sorta surfables to go around, though. I caught a bunch of fun tinies that gave me really my first chance to get acquainted with my newish small-wave board (6'2" Vernor). It catches slow little waves really easily, doesn't get bogged down in turns going slow, and for some reason it likes to go backside more than my other boards have.
The balls of my feet are still numb.
Posted by: kloo at January 13, 2005 11:22 AMI too got Second Thoughts for Christmas, and it is a good view. T.Turner's commentary is not that bad really. If anything, it gives you a better idea of how the film is really like a home-movie more than anything else. Most surfers are dumber than fuck, anyhow. All you have to do is read this blog (or at least my posts) to know that one.
Posted by: friend #1 at January 13, 2005 11:23 AMHOLY SHIT!!!!
The SF Bouy just started going off: 3.0 ft @ 7 secs.
Damn, get on it.....
Posted by: Kaiser at January 13, 2005 11:37 AMsave your money for Broke Down Melody.. that film rules! imho..
Posted by: e at January 13, 2005 11:41 AMsecond thoughts is worth watching, and the commentary isnt really that bad. my opinion may be biased because i watched it on a portable dvd player on new years day while sitting in a hammock waiting for the high tide at playa grande, so i kinda have a fond memory of the moment.
Posted by: tim at January 13, 2005 11:41 AMIn case you missed it yesterday. Bad organic photographer, great surfer. Blakestah is the real deal.

Posted by: Bruce at January 13, 2005 11:57 AMi enjoyed Second Thoughts as well...but would probably turn down the sound if I watched it again...Turners voice is a bit much. The last scene made the movie for me though...
go buy it on deepdiscountdvd.com for like 9$ vs $29 that some other sites sell it for.
Posted by: jdz at January 13, 2005 12:13 PMThanks all for the reviews. Sounds like one of those, "let one of your friends buy then you borrow" type film ;-)
Just read a review for a broke down melody. sounds really good. thanks for the tip e! I think i am going to play it safe and pick up Campaign. Can't go wrong with a Tailor Steele flick.
Posted by: sea scum at January 13, 2005 12:20 PMHey steamwand, you got a pic of that 3$ board? :)
Nada out there but boy was I stoked just to get in the ocean and not get destroyed as usual. Early bird until someone appeared [ bstah?] near moocow corpse point and then found self just north of kneelo junction. What a lake. Couple of rogue knee-thigh high set waves offered...*gasp* brief, clean FACES..dang, I thought I'd never see one of those again! Tried to hop the flying brick up the top of one of those micro swells, prompty closed out and plummeted over the 2 foot falls onto my butt. Good times.
Surfing is fun,
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 13, 2005 12:23 PMI LOVED 2nd thoughts. Just for the inside the barrel video, esp. that last barrel that went on fooorrrrrrrever. Huge messy spills down here and esp. in Orange County. I am dryin' up. fuuuuck.
Stoked, thanks jdz! Just ordered it from that site. 9 bucks and no shippin'!!
Posted by: Hb at January 13, 2005 12:27 PMGreat flick- Let's encourage this new sport out at the beach
Posted by: Blood Surfing at January 13, 2005 12:32 PMyeah jdz, that site is sick! I couldnt pass that deal up, just ordered it.
Posted by: sea scum at January 13, 2005 12:37 PMi 2nd the second thoughts recco. killer barrell sequences and the sound from the camera in barrell is so cool.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 13, 2005 12:37 PMI know Peter Pirolli pretty well. He's a Canadian - lives near Aqua, I always sing "O Canada" REALLY LOUDLY outside his apartment. He digs it. Trippy he found the cow...
Second thoughts. Netflix it.
Posted by: blakestah at January 13, 2005 01:13 PMe layin' a little D Y L A N on our ass this morning. nice.
Pimp will be returnin' to EG next week. Back off.
Keep pimpin'
egp
Posted by: EG Pimp at January 13, 2005 01:30 PMTimmy Turner has been in several other films; The Ombak: White Knuckle Extreme, Burning the Map and he did Second Thoughts himself. He can be a bit hard to take at times but he's really just out of grom hood. The last scene in Second Thoughts is phenomenal and the rest of the barrel shots are unreal too.
Posted by: Leo at January 13, 2005 01:34 PMby the way - http://www.timmyturnerfilms.com
Moorea, yeah. Mostly offshore reefs accessable best by boat and some paddle from the beach breaks. Having been there, I say do not give it a second thought and go especially if you are taking a lady.
Posted by: Leo at January 13, 2005 01:38 PMthis is one for my "i had no clue something like this existed" file

Posted by: j at January 13, 2005 01:44 PMnice wave blakestah!!
Posted by: phil at January 13, 2005 01:51 PMthat thing kinda reminds me of that flying dog in never ending story... but kinda not
Posted by: bbr at January 13, 2005 01:55 PMStoke meter: Medium

Posted by: Kaiser at January 13, 2005 02:24 PMThanks for the feedback Leo. So you went to Moorea, is it like Tahiti in the way the waves break, etc. I found a great deal on line, for like 850 for 6 nights everything included. I went to Tahiti like this and it blew my mind. Couldn't afford to make it over to Moorea. So you think this would be a good trip for me and the girl? Are there any beach breaks that she may be able to flap around in? Thanks!
Posted by: obsurfer at January 13, 2005 02:47 PMHold the phones.....the SF Bouy just hit 3.6 @ 4 secs.
Posted by: Kaiser at January 13, 2005 02:47 PMThat thing is deadly:
"Long Nosed Chimaera (Harriotta raleighana): This fish has a sharp nose that resembles the nose contour of a supersonic jet aircraft (or maybe even an elephant!). It was for this reason that they were nicknamed "rattail" and "ghost shark." Long Nosed Chimaera have a dorsal fin with a venomous spine that could kill a person. Although this is not likely to happen because they live in waters 8,000 feet deep."
Posted by: Chimaera lover at January 13, 2005 02:50 PMi like the little pudge on the pink bikini cutie. yum.
Posted by: at January 13, 2005 02:56 PMs.s.-no pics. it is sweet though-really thick, a little over seven feet, deep yellow with a red lightening bolt, not much rocker. my brother fixed it up pretty nice, although it still needs a little sanding. he said i could have it but i had no money for the airfare cause i spent it all on x-mas presents for the fam. next time i'm back i'm snagging the thing and bringing it out here. maybe i'll have it in time for manny's next fish fest. fun time to share boards.
Posted by: steamwand at January 13, 2005 02:59 PMjersey... ya heard me..

Posted by: e at January 13, 2005 03:02 PMWent to Moorea a few years back. It wasn't a surf vacation, but I went on a fishing trip around the island. Lots of reef breaks. Saw one guy all by himself taking off on good size overhead mackers.
Posted by: gvg at January 13, 2005 03:29 PMi love it when the rights at linda mar are twice as big as the lefts
Posted by: bagel at January 13, 2005 03:33 PMWhy no surfing when you were in Moorea? I guess I just want to know how accessible the surf is, etc? Would you go back for 850 (all inclusive)?
Posted by: obsurfer at January 13, 2005 03:43 PM
Posted by: e at January 13, 2005 03:47 PMFlat surf entertainment:
Anyone seen the 'Wetsuit for Tsunami Survivor' ad on craigslist and a response to it?
http://www.craigslist.org/pen/spo/55539077.html
Posted by: steve-o at January 13, 2005 03:53 PMhttp://www.craigslist.org/sfc/spo/55542341.html
i call bullshit on that fucker
Posted by: bbr at January 13, 2005 04:01 PMYah, brrrrrr, that area is so FREEZING that you have to travel with a lot of gear, ESPECIALLY your 4/3. Poor guy.
Posted by: Nate at January 13, 2005 04:11 PMBruce- 35' 11 ton cutter- was that a Samson ferro? Sounds really stout for a 35 footer
Posted by: web at January 13, 2005 04:49 PMha, nate hit the nail on the head.
Posted by: j at January 13, 2005 04:54 PMtodays waves remind me of the east coast on an average to good day.too f****n cold back there to surf when pumping.thanks god for pacific and west coast storms
Posted by: snrfr at January 13, 2005 05:07 PM
Posted by: Boss Hog at January 13, 2005 05:34 PMI am dirty, I know, I apologize....

Posted by: Kaiser at January 13, 2005 05:44 PMdeeamnn!!
that's where Christian's from.. Ipanema..
I like big butts and i cannot lie
Posted by: e at January 13, 2005 05:52 PM- sir mix alot
kaiser, you have been forgiven. and furthermore, any more posts like that will also be forgiven, so keep going.
Posted by: j at January 13, 2005 05:53 PMdirty birdy...

Posted by: misery at January 13, 2005 05:55 PM
Posted by: lindy at January 13, 2005 06:11 PMHey web- glad you're back. 35' Fantasia designed by Bingham out of Canada and built in Taiwan. In this photo da' wife is at the helm while I sit back and sip a beer. No ferro- lots of teak and freeboard. Hope you're well.
Posted by: Bruce at January 13, 2005 07:28 PM
Posted by: at January 13, 2005 11:14 PMI'll see that and raise you what i am listenin' to right now as I skated home. East coast rap early 90's was no joke.
Go away drity rain and c'mon new swell and bars!
Posted by: Hb at January 13, 2005 11:25 PMOK, I've been a quiet voyer, reading your site for awhile now but keeping my distance. Compelled to jot something down from time to time.
A good vibe here. I've been hanging around the beach off and on for 20 years or so.. it could use a good vibe infusion. So thanks.
Bruce (?) I spent 3 years living on a 35'Fantasia in Sausalito when I was a kid ('78, '79, 80). Wow, did that photo bring back memories.
Posted by: K at January 13, 2005 11:37 PMI like when people post things like "i like big butts and I cannot lie" right below a girl with a miniscule butt.
About that Timmy Turner movie, I agree, it's good, the voiceover doesn't bother me personally at all, the footage is outrageous, and incidentally Netflix has it. Best part of the movie in my opinion was the song "I got no time for y'all" by the Dirty Heads, awesome track, just acoustic guitar, djembe, and good rapping. Sort of Sublime meets G-Love meets Cypress Hill. And freely & legally downloadable:
http://righteousdub.com/audio/dirtyheads/
Posted by: wrybread at January 14, 2005 01:24 AMhey wrybread, who sung the opening song (i was so f-ed up..) and that song in chapter 5 of the dvd? i wanna check that band out
Posted by: Hoseph at January 14, 2005 08:00 AMif Ipanema is so great tell him to go back
Posted by: INS at January 14, 2005 08:11 AMyou should go home too INSecure.
Posted by: at January 14, 2005 10:04 AMyou should go home too INSecure.
Posted by: at January 14, 2005 10:05 AMhttp://www.righteousdub.com/audio/random/three/Sister_Nancy-Only_Woman_dj_with_degree.mp3
Posted by: bagel at January 14, 2005 10:07 AMMy head is exploding from that righteousdub site.
Holy irrriiie.
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