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a few waves on a beautiful day.

Best waves since central america.
P-town's "cove of nirvana" again barfed up the messy but effective nuglets.
Constant, relentless, never-ending windswell slabs slapped up along tempermental sandbars that did their best to hold the shape for us fans of the peeling wave. It felt great to take off into a few chunkified, speedy, semi-snarling situations. I caught a few fast pig-dog backside rides and then one ledging right that allowed for a high-line fast-track pumping sprint. I could only surf for 30 minutes because my mom is in town but i caught more substantial waves in those 30 minutes than i have in all my combined sessions since returning from central america. strait up! Shit.. and i'm tellin' you.. it felt fucking great! finally.. a few waves at one of the local spots. Tons of people out (maybe 50?).. i'm wondering how many were influenced by yesterday's discussion on this here website? Regardless, the crowd wasn't really an issue if you were willing to paddle north and the vibes seemed super mellow and chilled.. great to see Yuskai out there. He's the guy we often refer to as LHGVAG (Long Haired Good Vibed Asian Guy). Sharkbait could also be seen rippin' shit up out there. aww yeah..

Also sweet to see Adam out there for one of his first sessions since shoulder surgery. He hurt his shoulder a few months ago while performing an inspired but insane act of gentle heroism. Adam was sauntering down a path in the park on a sunny sunday afternoon. He had his arm draped around the shoulder of his cutie lady. The birds were singing and people were drumming and spirits were high. As the blissed out couple passed a little grove of trees Adam thought he noticed something shimmering toward the middle of the grove. The two young lovers walked off the trail and into the dark, mysterious forest.. as they approached the dense, innards of the grove they had to step over bushes and bypass a few bum encampments. Soon they began to discern a rising hum and could see what appeared to be a blurry, vibrating smear in the trunk of an old, grandaddy tree in the middle of the grove. The closer they got, the louder the hum grew. Soon they were almost next to the tree and they were taken aback by what appeared to be a swirling black vortex stuck right in the middle of the tree's trunk.. It was only about 1 foot in diameter but it slowly swirled around and it was impossible to perceive what existed within. A low, powerful, sustained, vibrating drone funnelled out of the vortex and the two of them were both frightened and curious. Soon a soft, tranquil cooing voice sang out from the vortex. They couldn't make out any particular words or language, just a relaxing, mesmerizing, welcoming melody. Just then Adam's lady began to reach out her hand toward the swirling anomaly. Immediately Adam felt a twinge of internal warning as his girl's hand broke some membrane and submerged into the vortex itself. At that exact moment the soft, comforting voice shifted into an angry, screeching, violent cacophony of dischordant rage. A gushing, sucking wind began to rage into the vortex and colors of blood-red and fire-orange began to flicker and wisk within the tree's innards. Adam's lady began to yell as her hand and arm were quickly sucked into the vortex. Adam acted quickly and grabbed her by the waist and began tugging with all his might. The evil presence within the vortex saw Adam struggling against it's feeding on human prey and unleashed a volley of lightening and gutteral wrath and nearly killed our mild-mannered fellow surfer. But the man held fast and with a quick motion grabbed a hunk of mud from the ground and tossed it over the hole in the tree where the vortex resided. As quickly as that the winds subsided and the screams and lightening ceased. Everything grew immediately still and Adam's lady began to pull her arm out of the tree. But.. just before she pulled it totally out the vortex made it's last gasp and sucked violently. Once more Adam grabbed his love by the waist and pulled with all his being. He pulled her out to safety but in the process tore his shoulder muscles clear away from the bone. Then he took a huge glob of mud and covered up the hole entirely.

soo.. that's what happened..

i've posted this before.. but.. shiot.. ti's nice

south africa

Lindy this morning!

Top one looks like Raglan I think. And yeap, I named a spot. But it is like 10,000 miles from here so good luck!

I too did the surf check this a.m. but was not pleased with what I saw. As I ventured from my house towards OB, I was a bit tired given the sub 6:00 a.m. time. OB looked like vomit. But one of these vomits that was not too chucky and not too sour but still yellow, green, brown and slightly unpleasant. Heading southward, winds were pretty evident from the local flag indicators that reside at certain strategic locations around our blessed coastline.

*******May I break this thought for a second*******
I would really like to thank the folks that dwell in the house which sites about 1/3 of the way down route 1 as you head into P-Land. For years they have flown many a flag giving me hope/insight/disappointment/knowledge about the wind factoring on my surf check. Whether it be football season and a 49ers flag, July 4th with the good ole' US of A flag, or whatever mood they are in, it is always there. Big thanks to them!

Ok, so back on the road headed southward. That very flag described above blowing due westward and pointing at me as if to say "not today buddy". I ventured around a few bends, ultimately stopping in the lot of dust and dirt that adheres to anything remotely sticky like a wet wetsuit. After 10 minutes of watching, I couldn't bear to jump in my wettie. Instead, I headed over to CK's favorite place, Donut Point. It delivered a solid maple old-fashion and followed it with a chocolate raised - standard issue and #1 on my top 5 donut list (Krispy Kreme being a close #2, but glazed only and it has to be warm).

So, no surf for me as I didn't feel the love. However the lot was filling up with many takers.

Shoulda, coulda, didn't...

That is my "E Style" comment for the day, just a little flashback to my job as substitute poster.

Adam, glad to hear you are back in the water. Never new the story about your shoulder but glad to hear you are back. Let's get that shit in shape for the winter!!!!

Posted by: Kaiser at June 11, 2004 10:51 AM

Hey e: re more people this Fri, one guy said it's Ronald Reagan holiday for some folks today, no worries. Also apologies for those two men hollering at you. While fixing gloves etc at 6:45 am was engaged in spontaneous conversation - isn't the water cold, aren't you scared of sharks, how do you stand on the board, and even though we are clearly old enough to be your father do you want to go to a blues bar tonight? When I spotted you I whistled halloo but my new friends took it upon themselves to help! Gotta love Linda Mar!

OB: sunny, right now smaller version of yesterday. Mild saucy onshores, zig zag paddle, nuggets possible if you are zen and can decode the puzzle that is this beach break. Averaging 0-1 surfers, 2 when it's crowded.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 11, 2004 10:53 AM

Sorry for the long post, sometimes it just rolls off the tongue.

Posted by: Kaiser at June 11, 2004 10:53 AM

surfed east side SC yesterday....waves were low tide perfection, peeling down the summer reefs. I was frothing at the actual thought of riding a wave for more than 5 seconds and getting more than one turn in since being in warm water Mexico south swell paradise.

BUT...the lineup was full of, what some people would call, "locals."

I never really have problems with locals cause I throw the good vibes and smiles and give away waves, hootin' the rippers into the set waves, just try to promote the fun factor in surfing for everyone out there.

Got up to the top of the lineup just in time to see Alpha Surfer guy threaton another "beginner-ish" surfer out of the water because he dropped in on some other local kid that was out there. So essentially Alpha guy is "regulating" the line-up for a bunch of 15-16 year olds. It immediately set the tone of the line up but I was not going to be intimidated, lately I have been wave starved you see. Hung out within the pack of locals who were actually all pretty nice in their own way (the nicest local guy out there who I was talking with ripped harder than all the other shit talkers, go figure) except for the Alpha guy who was talking shit to everyone remotely in his area. He started talking shit to this older dude who I see there everytime I go and is a pretty nice guy as older guys go. Older guy got so tired of the bullshit he told alpha dude to "paddle up to 1st bowl and catch 3 waves surf star, then come back and talk to me." Perfect response as the guy is throwing 'tude at a fairly well known beginner-ish spot.

After a fun, semi-bad vibed sesh, I decided to take one last wave in. And I set myself up in the right spot to catch one of the wide swinging waves. Wave came right to me, no one around me, initiated paddling very early as to say "I got this one everybody." Catch it, drop in, speed down the line and pull a full rail grab speed turn (my favorite lately). Stoked. Until some 16 year old kid comes up behind me as I kick off the wave. There is no way I dropped in on this kid, I was paddling for this wave DAYS before anyway else. If he wants to drop in hella late on the way inside when he knows I am taking this wave, I figure he wants to ride it with me, that's fine, it's all surfing to me. So kid starts talking mad shit to me and even kicks water at me. Mind you, I am twice this kids age (plus some) at least. It took everything I had in my mind and body not to stick his braces to his lip and break his nose right there, but I knew that if I taught that kid a lesson I would be facing 5 other dudes in 5 minutes. So I walked away.

Moral of this long ass story?

Summer school hasn't started yet ;)

p.s. - who is teaching the kids that surfing is all about localism and fighting and shit? I feel so sorry for them when they finally decide to step out of SC County and get decked the first time they mouth off to someone.

Posted by: barney at June 11, 2004 10:54 AM

D'oh forgot OB blowsy sized waist - head, no surfers for reference, sorry.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 11, 2004 10:58 AM

I thrased about south of the bell 7:00 to 8:30. I wondered too if this here blog scared up the extra bodies, but I guess it was Reagan not having the common courtesy to hang on for another day. It was crowded enough that you had to pass up every second wave you wanted, but still a pleasant vibe. A dry-hair first paddle-out proved, er, misleading---future paddles-out were more laborious, and I ended up not being able to get back out at all at 8:15 or so and moved briefly to the far south end. So, a tough workout. I caught a few reasonable waves at the first spot (yippee!), but I never got up much speed (aww!), which seemed kind of odd because the waves were not small. Also it always seemed like despite myself I was riding on the tail, or the tail was dragging---putting weight forward didn't seem to speed things up like usual, and basically I kept wondering if there was something different about me or the waves or the fins . . . ? Still, what fun to splash around in cool water with an endless mountain of wave to play on, coming one chunk at a time. Sure beats power-walking.

Cdub, I was looking for a yellow Yater, but damn if every second board out there wasn't yellow! When I went to the south end there was a guy on a yellow longboard that paddled out with me--past me, really. At that point I was exhausted, failed to catch a few waves, and paddled in. And Kaiser, keep on posting the long ones! And park in the shopping center if you want to avoid the dirt.

Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 11, 2004 11:03 AM

In all my day's of surfing it has never been the obvious best surfer out, who does the shit talking.

Sure, some really good surfers have talked some shit in the past, but for some reason the "cream of the crop" guy's are always too busy ripping.

In SC it's funny. A town filled with pro's. When some guy think's he's hot shit I always have my prepared response ready to fly.

"If you are so geat how come I never saw you in the mags?" "How did you do in the Cold Water Classic"

Skinny, Pete, Flea, Schmidt, Barney, Ratboy, Loya, Wingbut, Simba, Gally, Ruffo, Dezy, JAY!

If that ain't there name then they are also rans. Or just practicing like me. Our for funr, ya know.

Not that those guy's have an excuse to be out there talking shit but I gotta get a different response for arguments with them since they did make the mag's and video.

Posted by: tom at June 11, 2004 11:14 AM

E, you're a trip. I guess you took my "I wish I had a better story" aside to heart. Well, that's the story I'll go with for now on. Sharkbait, was that you enjoying the Lindy tread mill with me for a solid 20 duck dives? It didn't seem like a good trade off for one straighten out, close out, non-ride. Oh well, it was a good view for E's nice right.

Posted by: adam at June 11, 2004 11:17 AM

there must have been some sort of "calling" this morning as i, too, ended up at Donut Point!...albeit a different one than Kaiser...the one that serves up sets of melt-in-your-hand, glassed-off perfection 12 at a time!! (...and, no, i didn't eat ALL 12 myself...at least half of 'em went to my co-workers ; ).

btw...in sad news today, i learned this morning that one of the legendary Kings of music...influencer extraordinaire passed away yesterday at the age of 73. Ray Charles is no longer with us, but his influence and optimism always will be.

peace, y'all.

Posted by: ck at June 11, 2004 11:21 AM

Yeah, I think that a bunch of people cracked the code for our super secret world-class local spot. Ram Adnil was crazy busy this morning. At 6:30 there were a bunch of folks in the water and by 8, the parkin lot was almost full. Got a couple of good rights and was surfin with good friends, so the vibe was sweet.

But I've been really lucky this week, my schedule opened up all of a sudden, and I realized that I could go down to SC on both Monday and Wednesday, right before school ended and the kids were all out in the lineup. Won't be able to do that again for a while, but those two sessions temporarily satisfied my surf jones. Thought I wonder if they just made my wave lust even worse in the long run........

Posted by: limevoodoo at June 11, 2004 11:23 AM

I have met Homer and Replogle and Loya and those dudes and they are all super nice and cool. A little wacky from time to time but that just keeps it interesting and fun I think. Damn they rip hard too. Homer rips so hard.

Basically my second father (owner of my local shop growing up) is old school SC and everytime I tell him about stuff like this he just laughs and says "those guys are kooks, if they are so tough, how come they aren't surfing with Me and Homer and talking shit?"

Real locals spread stoke by getting others amped with their sick surfing.

Posted by: barney at June 11, 2004 11:24 AM

was that you on the blue railed fun board ?....thanks for snaking me at about 5 to eight..

met a guy while changing in the lot (new concrete walk great for keeping wet feet out of the dirt, e)
who started rapping about the sj article on the campbell brothers and how he bought a perfect condition bonzer at somebody's garage sale for $25. claimed to not know anything about the board until he read the sj article... i offered him 100% profit on his investment (site un seen) no deal

a construction guy told me they are installing hot showers inside the new bathroom facilities - i'll probly still bring my own hot jugs and continue to do my own thing in the lot though.

Posted by: snake at June 11, 2004 11:25 AM

stoked for you e! catching waves! i know you were wanting for surf. if you need a reminder to be grateful for whatever the pacific has to offer, the long island buoy is currently clocking a massive 1 ft 6 seconds. compare that to kaiser's bathtub, which I believe is macking at 5-7 ft, 16 seconds, cause the supersized superman just got in.

Posted by: jake at June 11, 2004 11:27 AM

along with the rest of the niceness crew i too did some frolicking in the cove 'o plenty this morning. pretty fun, and no problem with croweds if you sat a little further north. When i puilled my board out of its sock i noticed, to my surprise, that my rear fin was missing. huh. I rode it as a twin fin and it was actually pretty fun- it slid around more (evven just paddling) and when i tried a few weakish backside snaps it didn't do so well 'cause that pivot point isn't there, but it made the sesh more fun to be trying something a little different.

barney, i've had similar experiences like that on the east-side. its strange, i've been out on DOH days at the lane and never had a bad experience, but have been hassled out of the water on a 3-foot days at pleasure point. surf nazis must die!

Posted by: luke at June 11, 2004 11:29 AM

hi. new shots on my site here. this is a beachbreak in isla vista called sands:

Posted by: bbr at June 11, 2004 11:31 AM

Green rails here. But, um, were you taking a right, hadn't stood up yet, and the guy, who was already up, pulled out to avoid you? Then it DEFINITELY wasn't me.


Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 11, 2004 11:33 AM

thanks bbr.. another from 805bbr...

Posted by: e at June 11, 2004 11:35 AM

I didn't mean to leave anyone off the list. I just don't know all the names.

But those that don't get the exposure know they play second fiddle and it's a classic big fish small pond syndrome.

Posted by: tom at June 11, 2004 11:37 AM

Jake...what is your home break on Strong Island? What surf shop do you frequent?

Posted by: tom at June 11, 2004 11:39 AM

ya, rip ray

havent surfed in 2 weeks..dont remember the last time i got good waves..

i didnt know sands could do that..

sorry lakers fans..

Posted by: bagel at June 11, 2004 11:49 AM

reminder: be nice to the shit talking locals, because you don't want them spitting in your taco bell next time you go thru the drive thru.

Posted by: j at June 11, 2004 11:54 AM

klooless, i made the drive to the mar but couldn't muster up the energy for what looked like chaos out there -- more peeps and lots of short period close-outs. good on ya for making the effort.

Posted by: cdub at June 11, 2004 11:56 AM

Posted by: j at June 11, 2004 11:56 AM

"classic big fish small pond syndrome"

I think you hit the nail on the head Tom.

So good to know that there is a niceness crew lurking out there, somewhere (where the winds aren't), having fun, sharing waves and being stoked.

Posted by: barney at June 11, 2004 11:57 AM

is this wave in ventura county bbr?

Posted by: bagel at June 11, 2004 11:58 AM

they're all of sands ;)

Posted by: bbr at June 11, 2004 11:59 AM

i love sands. that peak is so distinct.

Posted by: bagel at June 11, 2004 12:10 PM

busted up my knee boogie boarding porto as my board got reparied

stupid yes but I had fun and can say that I surfed and boogied portro

i definitely have more respect for the spongers out there...its not reall that easy..seriously porto or not it takes skill

Posted by: pez at June 11, 2004 12:12 PM

another sick pit in fiji

Posted by: e at June 11, 2004 12:43 PM

Posted by: at June 11, 2004 01:02 PM

bbr you're a kook teabagger
go back to IV

Posted by: at June 11, 2004 01:03 PM

Damn- all my electronic friends were Lindy and I was trapped at my desk. That would have made for some fun photos.

CK and Kaiser- wasn't last week we were reading all that fasting, wheat grass, "my body is a temple" shit? Drowning your no surf depression in donuts? My kind of guys.

Sharky- Next assignment for our ace reporter from your chief editor: Worst pick-up lines from shameless old surfers. Deadline, next week.

bbr- Killer photos, man. I need lessons from that guy.

Gawd I hate aggro-groms. One approach is to instantly make friends with other (sane) guys in the line up and talk like you've known themn for a million years. Sometimes there's safety in perceived numbers, and it's fun anyway.

Rule Violation #1- Selling stuff. Given the possibility of my upcoming extended vacation, I've got three boards for sale. Paste this link into your navigator window http://www.surfhumor.com/Classifieds.htm My cell phone number is there if you head south this weekend and want pics.

Rule Violation #2- Posting photos of butt-slapper waves. The Green Hornet (7-3 Bordello fish) that I've fallen in love with. If you don't have one, get one. Please try not to laugh at my Shamu on Thorazine style. (Bob Island photo)

Posted by: Bruce at June 11, 2004 01:12 PM

since you are from the 805 baby, i got a question for you. what is the best swell angle for the sand bar to start breaking?

Posted by: dsx at June 11, 2004 01:32 PM

ahhh....Bruce....i'll chalk it up to the old "the spirit is strong....but the flesh is weak!" stand-by!

btw...just for the record....i NEVER swore off donuts! i'm not krazy! ; )

Posted by: ck at June 11, 2004 01:35 PM

cool photo Bruce Iron... err.. i mean.. bruce Topp!

Posted by: e at June 11, 2004 01:46 PM

Hey E,
Weren't you preaching the other day about understating the waves. What's up with

"Best waves since central america"

Maybe everyone on this site could practice what you preach a little bit more and not help to create more crowded spots.

I think this site contributes more to crowds than all the other phone reports, cams, cell phones combined!

People are naming spots all the time. Many people who get upset at others when the bandwagon says "Don't name spots" are the ones who drop the most names.

You yourself said that daily over 1000 people visit this site (probably who all live in this direct area)

Everyone is pissed at agro- people out there. But these same people cannot regulate themselves (therefore regulating the crowds)

Everyone like pretty pics and is psyched when they have a good session. But lets not help all the people out there- get out there and clog up the already crowded lineups.

So please control yourselves and don't name spots, here or World wide and don't tell the internet world how good the conditions just were even if it is at Crappy Mar or where ever.

Posted by: at June 11, 2004 01:51 PM

careful e, don't be crossing the line

Posted by: bruce at June 11, 2004 02:00 PM

:) sands... thanks for the visuals bbr

Posted by: at June 11, 2004 02:00 PM

Posted by: bagel at June 11, 2004 02:00 PM

bagel...i see enough of that kind on thing in my on home...now you gotta be bringin it in here? ;)

Posted by: jdz at June 11, 2004 02:09 PM

oh sorry jdz, in into that sort of-..oh! uuuuh never mind!

Posted by: bagel at June 11, 2004 02:14 PM

aggro groms are a part of surfings heritage. unless you grew up "grom" your not going to get it. but think back to your teens, your crew, your hangouts/spots. when visitors showed up where you all freindly? aggro groms, entitled locals are all part of the unique charecter of surfing. be nice, play fair. ROCK ON!

50 people dp'n junky Pacifica?!?!?!? yup, E, your a nor cal power broker.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at June 11, 2004 02:15 PM

The true power of this website has been revealed

50 people dp'n junky Pacifica

That is pretty sad and scary!

Posted by: at June 11, 2004 02:27 PM

And check out Surfline's surf report for today:

"3-5 ft. - waist to head high and fair - conditions.
High morning tide is setting up some rideable waves this morning. Nothing great but there are some workable reforms on the inside. Look for dropping tide and increasing winds to junk it out in the next few hours."

Fair conditions, my ass. That site bites it so bad.....

Posted by: limevoodoo at June 11, 2004 02:30 PM

I agree we were all groms at one point. I know I was.

After my altercation with that stupid kid, I myself thought back to that one time I talked shit to the wrong dude and barely got my 3rd word out before he broke my nose. Never talked shit again that's for sure.

It will happen to this kid and all the kids that act like that. It won't be me cause I am gonna stay mellow but it may be the next dude, you just never know when it will happen, you just know it will.

As for the whole aggro people/regulating crowds thing:

Individual surf breaks, each person's surfing ability, the wind, the swell, all add up to natural regulation of crowds. Why do we need aggro people to regulate?

That just ruins it for everyone IMHO.

Spread the love and spread the waves and it will all come back around to you.

Life is a circular path.

Posted by: barney at June 11, 2004 02:32 PM

word..i was too busy getting pantsed, humiliated in front of girls, and thrown in trash cans during my grom hood..i guess it was enough to scar me for life cause i aint never hassled nobody..and im a navy seal..somebody should beat me up for the frequency i check this site though..

Posted by: bagel at June 11, 2004 02:39 PM

niceness crew, a grassroots call to action for all of us!

somewhere right now there's 16 oz. of ice cold beer sitting in a keg somewhere longing to get out and avenge the grisly death of his hoppy mom and barley father (they were both drown in boiling water, just tragic). at the same time, there's an empty, frosty chilled 16 oz. glass that would like nothing more than to serve it's country by holding 16 oz. of america's finest. you and only you have the power to release them both from the shackles that bind and make what they've spent their whole lives preparing for become a reality. go out there and make a difference this weekend.

Posted by: j at June 11, 2004 02:44 PM

to "no name" poster who claimed that this report clogs the line-up more than all of the reports, cams, and cells combined:

do you actually believe that? come on. if e was going on about some mystic spot you may have a legitimate beef, but Schlindy...is Schlindy. it's ALWAYS busy and always will be. to think that e's words indicating where he dp'ed yesterday contributed to the line-up density on a beautiful Friday (especially one which many folks have off) is laughable.

plus...if it did add any crowd to the line-up, i'd be willing to bet that they are EXACTLY the type of heads you want out there on a slop-fest summer morning. folks with smiles and hoots.

Posted by: ck at June 11, 2004 02:48 PM

good onya ck!!!!

it's really easy to post your views on the internet and not have to back it up. you just leave your name off of it.

barney (email linked)

now if I can just get my in-laws to bail from my pad to the East Bay I can go home and practice what J is preaching!

Posted by: barney at June 11, 2004 02:56 PM

Figure it out.

Hundreds of people a day read the site.

One morning in windy summer, they notice five people got rideable conditions someplace - after a period of substantial wave-drought. So, the ones that want to surf in the morning, maybe one in ten, grab a buddy and head out.

The next morning, the aforementioned surf spot has 3-4 dozen more people, simply due to naming names on this site.

Impossible? Hardly.

You have a good session? Great. Tell your friends, face to face, or on the phone if you like. Broadcasting it to hundreds of anonymous lurkers is another thing altogether, and you are hurting yourself and your friends at the same time.

Is it a big deal directing people to Lindy? It may not be any secret at all, but it has the same net effect - less surf for you and your friends. It is totally great that maybe 20 people feel like they are talking to themselves as friends on this site.

But for each person posting, there are several dozen just reading, looking for info.

Posted by: blakestah at June 11, 2004 03:04 PM

Remember, don't tell anyone anything at anytime. It is WRONG, WRONG, WRONG to share good feelings, pretty pictures, bad jokes, silly stories and friendly teasing. Let's keep it all to ourselves so the Klueless Kooks and Sharkbaits of the world never get exposed to this wonderful existence and we never get to know their stoke. I get as much pleasure seeing new surfers get good as I do surfing. I can remember when Uskay was struggling with a fun board at Linda Mar in Pacifica, California located south of San Francisco on the Pacific Coast Highway. It's that secret spot you can't see from the friggin traffic light. Sorry. . . I'm getting carried away.

ALSO, let's start a movement to make OB a gated community where only a few people with lots of money can surf. Isn't that about the same as the rest of this tiring anti-cam BS? What's next, DOS attacks against the Surfline computers? Burning of Surfer Magazine and Surfer's journal? Surfing Taliban???????

DONUTS AND BEER! Now this is my kind of blog discussion! Can we chase that with a fat joint and some kinky sex? Er. . . not sex with you ugly guys.

Rant and rave completed.

Posted by: Yawwwwwnnnnn! at June 11, 2004 03:10 PM

Lindy was crowded early this morning because it's a high tide break and the 'before work' crowd always get one in there when the wind is down. I just checked it at 2:00 and it was near empty, low tide closers.

I have a question that with luck will prompt some thinking.
What difference in lines and feel do different fin set-ups make? Here's what I think, but I'm interested in hearing what others say. I'm looking at getting a nice retro twinny or single but haven't spent enough time on singles to know how they surf.

-Thrusters provide good acceleration, make for an easy drop but don't seem to maintain speed well. More stop-start type stuff, good if you're experienced enough to use them properly.
-Twinnies are late on the drop but once they're up to speed don't lose it, stay loose and do great rail turns. Brilliant at roller-coastering and getting around close-outs.
-Singles. They seem to paddle fast, drop late and want to 'rise' on the wave face.

Posted by: New Zealand Swell at June 11, 2004 03:11 PM


My rant and rave was NOT directed at you. Your views on this issue are quite reasonable. I think there is a role for limiting real-time reporting so not everyone hops on the same spot at the same time.

Carried to extremes (no stories, no pics, no after-the-fact reports) your reports and Bruce's, bbr's, Mexi's, and Stinkeye's would all have to come down, right?

Posted by: Yawwwnnnn! at June 11, 2004 03:16 PM

Stah- i see your point. However, i probably wouldn't have driven south this morning (and would not have had a fun sesh) if i hadn't read E and everyone else's accounts of semi-scoring at lindy yesterday. So the blade cuts both ways. i do think that lindy is a special circumstance, because of the cam and all the hordes that paddle out there no matter what the conditions. And frankly i never have a problem getting waves there, I just stay a little north of the logger pack and sit a little further inside on a smaller board. And the crowd is mellow.

Posted by: luke at June 11, 2004 03:23 PM

holy f*ck*n sh*t batman, a post about something surf related and not just bitching!!! ethan, kick new zealand swell off the board immediately.

Posted by: j at June 11, 2004 03:25 PM

If I thought, for a second, that the mass of surfers on the whole believed that surf forecasts contribute to crowded AT SPECIFIC LOCATIONS, I would stop today. Artfully done stories can leave the reader guessing, even reading multiple times, to try to figure out the location. The mystery in that is fine, and need not detract from the stoke shared. That is my viewpoint on this blog. The stoke emanating is great. Driving dozens of people to crowd LHGHAG is not great. If someone reads E's blog and doesn't know where he surfed, but tries to find it anyway, I'm down with that. When they end up on my front doorstep without even looking elsewhere because e named my street, it is quite annoying.

My view on fin setups.

Thrusters are the evolutionary end. And what did evolution create? The best board at taking motion towards shore, and converting it to motion down the line. That's all there is to it. The modern thruster takes the bottom turn and moves you down the line as fast as possible. In the right hands, they are faster than a single or a twin fin. If you don't think so, you probably aren't tuned in well enough, or have a poorly setup tri-fin. Thrusters do poorly in trim, or in a straight line, you have to go up and down the wave face. Interestingly, good surfers cannot break this habit. Watch Rob Machado on the single fin video at cisurfboards.com. Even on a single, he is uselessly pumping away from habit. That's the thruster style - up and down the wave, pushing through each bottom turn for speed.

Twins hold a high line better than a thruster. They generate some drive. But their lack of hold and poor bottom turns limit them. On a twin, instead of running towards shore and slamming a bottom turn, you fade in higher on the wave. Better than a thruster in trim.

Singles just turn funny. On twins or tris, the angled rail fins drive the rear end of the board through the turn. On a single, you place your weight to the side of the fin. The fin rides high through the turn, over the inside rear rail which is buried. It takes a LOT of skill to turn a single masterfully. Even so, the maneuverability is dramatically reduced relative to a twin or thruster. And the single is by far the slowest at creating down the line speed from forward speed. But the single trims nice, and fast.

I tried to take the angled fins from 2 and 3 fin systems, and add them to a single, by making a rotating fin. The angled fin drives the tail through a turn, but you can still trim well. If you want to pump for speed, you can do that, too.

Posted by: blakestah at June 11, 2004 03:31 PM

Okay--which of you goofballs fell in love at Lindy this morning?

From Craigslist:

Pacifica beach - m4w - 30 (coastside)

Reply to: anon-33525147@craigslist.org
Date: 2004-06-11, 3:00PM PDT

You were in a black two door car parked at the beach. Had on shorts, tank top, tan, highlighted hair, maybe asian. You were beautiful. I was parked next to you and said hello as I got out of the water from surfing. Hope to see you there again soon.

it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

Posted by: amor en el mar at June 11, 2004 03:37 PM

to whomever posted the itinerary for
the republic an national convention

thank you thank you thank you.

i sent it to my card carrying republican
uncle in georgia.....

that is one of the funniest things
i have ever seen/ read on this here site.

well done.

Posted by: korewin at June 11, 2004 03:45 PM

Blakestah, you hit the nail on the head. Good description of differences in rides. I always felt like my old MR style twinny helped my surfing, at the time I was pretty much still feeling around for what I liked in a board. I liked the way it turned off the middle, I never could get used to turning off the back of a board. I put it down to spending a life riding motorbikes (planted front tyre, loose rear). Think I'll have to go put down some folding on a 6'4".

Hey someone mentioned they got Morning of the Earth on DVD. If they read this, how's the picture and sound, better than the vhs? May have to trade up, best bloody surf movie ever.

Posted by: New Zealand Swell at June 11, 2004 03:51 PM

Kaiser that's Raglan all right.

Posted by: New Zealand Swell at June 11, 2004 03:55 PM

It's like a jungle sometimes it makes me wonder how i keep from goin' under.

Don't push me cause i'm close to the edge..
I'm tryin' not to lose my head.

Posted by: e at June 11, 2004 04:04 PM

Thank you proffessor 'stah.. You should write a book dude.

Posted by: cadaver at June 11, 2004 04:06 PM

Adam if you were paddling next to someone w/a hood and mumbling something about putting motors on the backs of surfboards then yes, that was me. Nice sharing those 20 duckdives with you. Saw e's right too.

Bruce: better, was once approached and asked how one SITS on the board. This at a mystery undisclosed parking lot ;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 11, 2004 04:12 PM

it's 4:20, do you know where your nugs are?

Posted by: e at June 11, 2004 04:21 PM

This debate is TIRED!!!!

I was at that said surf break last night and this morning. I can guarantee you that more people were out last night then this morning? How do all of you insightful folks explain that? Was that an immediate response to E et al. who surfed there yesterday and reported here? Or maybe do you think people just were hankering on things cleaning up "Thursday and Friday" and thought that since the conditions permitted, this said spot was surfable?

Again, the reason I went to said spot was that it was decent last night. And it wasn't nearly as good this morning.

Would it be AT ALL POSSIBLE that the folks who were there yesterday were their this morning as well? Given how many "surfable" days we have had this month, I think so.

This debate is tired as fuck! We all know that reports expose regardless of E's site, Blakestah's site, Surfline's site, PacWaverider's site, Surfpulse's site and even BBR's site.

So, eat a fucking donut and relax.

BTW, on that note, I never swore off junk food and the like for organic berries Bruce. I would prefer a triple caloric Starbucks and maple bar over an "alternative" cup of jo and some organic pears any day.

I was born in northern california and I eat red meat. And I could care less if that red meat is organic as long as it is dead and slightly pink in the middle.

I will leave the "pink in the middle" joke aside for J to finish......

Posted by: Kaiser at June 11, 2004 04:23 PM

RE: Fins and trim:
Much to do about trim is in the rails and foil of the board itself. Thruster config on a fat railed surfboard will trim fine. With the caution being that the more forward you ride a thruster the harder it is to turn the board. A single fin potato chip like the pros ride will need pump turns to get moving cuase it ain't got no volume to float. A single fin ala Wayne Lynch rode in Morning on Earth will trim like a mofo. board volume = trim ability

Twin fins and single fins turn more off your front foot. the 3rd fin on a thruster is the pivot point on thrusters and the reason they require back foot pressure to work proper. for all you riding 2 + 1 on your LB's move the rear fin closer to the fronts and your board will loosen up considerably. you will loose a little drive, but nothing a little rail can't compensate for;)

oh my gawd it's 420. over and out.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at June 11, 2004 04:24 PM

I seem to recall Blakestah going on a diet as well last week. How's the Ding-Dongs and Cokes working? Cleaning you out?

Posted by: limevoodoo at June 11, 2004 04:32 PM

i forgot to add: i ate a donut too this morning! but we better stop talking about donuts pretty soon or there will be a lot of xxl wetsuits sold and more longboarders then short boarders. they hog all the waves. so please stop naming donuts.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at June 11, 2004 04:32 PM

kaiser, your rant just made my day. that was classic.

Posted by: j at June 11, 2004 04:43 PM

Glad I could be of some service.

Let me wave my magic-picture-wand and see if I have something "uplifting" and "scantily-clad". If you are familiar with my Friday arvo posts and you don't approve, now would be a great time to turn your head.....






- its go time:

Posted by: Kaiser at June 11, 2004 04:52 PM

What a beautiful sunset that is....

Ok, seriously, I will stop now.

Posted by: Kaiser at June 11, 2004 04:54 PM

nice K..

damn.. no more fucking code!!! i'm sick of staring at this monitor and trying to figure out all these niddly little coding conundrums and having people assume that it takes 5 minutes to construct huge complex flexible content management systems.. I'm sick of the fucking computer!!

that's my rant.

Posted by: e at June 11, 2004 04:58 PM

Posted by: e at June 11, 2004 05:08 PM

damn kaiser, that magic worked. my wand has been uplifted!!

Posted by: j at June 11, 2004 05:16 PM

Ding-dongs and coke have thoroughly cleansed the toxins from my system. I've moved on to coffee and M&Ms.

Posted by: blakestah at June 11, 2004 05:17 PM

hosoi is free

Posted by: e at June 11, 2004 05:19 PM

Hosoi is out of jail? I think I need to celebrate.

Anyone got some crystal meth?

Posted by: Kaiser at June 11, 2004 05:30 PM

Thanks to the person who suggested I might be something other than a liability here. "Stoke" is exactly right: if I get one good ride at this point, I'm happy all day.

And, damn, this blog has been REALLY good for me. Advice of many kinds, and just the sense that it isn't all angry go-away types out there, even among the amazing surfers, really helps. So thanks to all of you.

Plus, I'd like to apologize in advance to all of you, because I'm more than likely at some point to get in your way as I try to paddle out, or to drop in on you thinking FINALLY I've caught a good wave only to realize, SHIT, so did you, or to grab a wave you'd have shredded only to fall off my board right away.

Have a great weekend!

Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 11, 2004 05:59 PM

klooless - we're all guilty of it every now and than, no matter our ability level, so no worries.

12 oz. of golden's finest freed, many many more to go.

rock on people, get your drink/smoke/surf/dance/lawnmow/sex/whatever on.

Posted by: j at June 11, 2004 07:28 PM

Klooless- You can surf with me any time, man. My only "requirement" of beginners is that they keep wet and keep trying, and remember me fondly when they get really good. That is, don't laugh at the old farts when you can surf circles around us. The only semi-sad thing about being 48 is one can improve one's surfing, but there are definitely limits on how much. In a younger body, you have fewer limitations and it comes down to dedication and effort. So get out there and make us proud.

Sorry to wax philosophic, but there is something so perfect about this blog. A little island of niceness where guys with PhD's in engineering share their smarts, beginners share their stoke, girls share their funny stories about men, and Kaiser shares pics of pretty butts. Thanks, E, you have done something really good.

So there's this south facing beach in SC about 1.5 miles from my cottage. I stopped there last night (Friday) and got a few photos. Now it's 7:00 am on Saturday and my pal called. I'm off to the East side for therapy. This is a good life. . . thanks to you guys for making it even better. We're near the end of this string, so I'm going to clog things up with some photos from last night.

Posted by: Bruce at June 12, 2004 07:14 AM

Thanks, j and Bruce. Bruce, nice pix, and you've only got seven years on me; I doubt I'll be approaching your level any time soon (or ever for that matter). But I am doing my best to stay wet. It'd be fun to meet and catch a wave with the man behind the camera. I'll actually be staying in the SC area June 21 - 25 (having fist-fights with teens, from the sounds of things) . . .

Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 12, 2004 02:44 PM

niceness, ms. pacific ocean said no saturday night just after sunset about 30 nm offshore, between between monterey and cape san martin. my sailboat magic bus was dismasted in 30-35 kts wind as we were (rapidly) headed south in the 2004 coastal cup - bound for santa barbara. These winds that have apparently blown out all the standard beach breaks this weekend created spectacular conditions for ultralight sailboats, so spectacular that just after dark yesterday, after planing through a three wave set, with sheets of water flying to both sides, we took a gust that accelerated the boat to another level (20+ kts speed through the water on a 27 foot sailboat) before laying our rig flat with a bang. after half an hour of work setting the broken spar free to its grave at the bottom of the ocean, we headed ne to monterey under power of a 2 hp honda outboard motor, wind and seas on the beam. we (in the interest of keeping the boat light for max speed) were only carrying 2 gallons of fuel, and we were making about 2.5 kts over ground towards monterey, so we were unsure wether we had enough to get us there. we were in contact with coast guard through the night by radio, and through the niceness ethos observed by mariners, a 500ft car carrier diverted for a rondevous and in a hairy exchange at about 4 am yesterday was able to drop extra fuel. Turned out we didn't need it, as wind and seas abated as the night wore on and we approached shore, but I will never forget it, pulling along side a giant ship, recieving a heaving line as crew members took photos, after which they lowered a tin filled with gasoline on a line. usually you want to stay as far away from the shipping traffic as possible, this time it was nice to know they were out there and willing to lend a hand. we reached monterey harbor at about 8 am today unharmed except for the chunder scarred thoats of 2 of the four of us onboard and of course my poor lovely boat, missing her wings. I've done this race before, it is always a challenge in different ways. Its too bad that we are not enjoying the fading breeze and sunset in the sb channel right now, as I expected to be, but it is also a hell of a lot of fun to handle a 27 foot boat like a longboarder doing a drop knee cutback, on an open ocean swell 30 miles offshore. Sorry for the sailing story on a surfing blog but they're not really that different at heart and i love both.

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