E's Surf Report

"Tis nipple...

full janet pic from aussie paper:
http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/02/02/1075570347359.html

also check out the bali article on surfline:
http://www.surfline.com/travel/tripwire/01_bali1.cfm

God I love Janet!

FOCUS! Ok, so, I took the turd challenge at Lindy this a.m. Given that I have proclaimed myself "immune" to Lindy or that I have a "better than average" immune/toxic response/shit clearing system, I couldn't be denied. 3 dudes out while it was still dark. Regulars of course that I surf with all the time taming this nice right north of the mid-beach shit station. I watched them for 10 minutes as the winds came up to about 20-30 mph and then just kept thinking "it will be fun if I go..." Really, I was just waiting for some type of motivation.

Super fun out there. The crew of 3 got their waves. I picked a few. LHAG got a sweet ass drop and shoulder on a overhead + wall (yeah, lindy had an overhead wave that didn't closeout, I swear). We all dodged the 7.7 @ 17 sec. groundswell closeouts. Caught the inbetween ones with the help of a nice channel. No way the sandbar setup stays after the building swell. So, sorry to those that didn't brave the 30 mph wind gusts w/ e-coli infested water.

But hey, you still gotta love Janet!

just got this via email...

There has been a change in the status of one or more of the beach
monitoring points in:

Ocean Beach
Foot of Sloat Blvd Station - Posted
Foot of Vicente Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Pacheco Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Lincoln Way Station - Posted
Foot Balboa Ave. Station - Posted

Follow the link below to see Earth 911's detailed map indicating
current
status:
http://www.earth911.org/WaterQuality/default.asp?beach_id=49&cluster=3

For more information on beach and ocean water quality see Oceana's web
page:
http://www.oceana.org/index.cfm?sectionID=25

bruce pic from the lane on saturday

OB: almost kinda seeing a surfy shoulder or two but honestly the collision of lumpy swell, tremendous wind gusts, and rain squalls is making it like Nature's Antacid Commercial out here!

Lindy early this morning - looked wacko but really fun! Hyped to paddle out again but stared at pounding pacifica rain and grit teeth, hit steering wheel in frustration, but did NOT want to send GI tract back over the edge.
*just* got over nasty mysto thing via mid OB early January. So yeah...affirm Lindy looked fun. E - so right about those fun waves/crappy water syndrome. Seriously, not to be anyone's mother, but watch out even when it's not literally posted. Eeeeegadzooks! The rest of you intestinal toughies, good luck w/the surf hunt...

fun SC wedges on Saturday and some OB nugs yesterday around Noriega. all around good weekend for waves around these here parts.

i don't know about janet though, this move was almost as desperate as madonna and britney's smooch. plus the whole goth-nipple thing doesn't really do it for me. it's all about beyonce baby.... "got the hottest chick in the game wearing my chain..."

if she was wearing that huge gothic nipple piercing i think the breast exposure was probably planned.

snakes in the pit

E - I actually find it amusing to watch wave snake antics. Depending on other proximity issues (rocks?), I might go sit where they sat to get on parity for lines. Or not, hey two jonesers aren't gonna shut down everything. At OB, if a guy catches a wave, if he has recently paddled back out when the next one comes in, I'm going whether or not he tries to get "priority". If guys can surf, respecting time of wait is basic etiquette. Of course, OB makes things pretty democratic by its nature - size does equalize. I've always wondered what bad vibers get out of the sport, though, given that internal negativity pretty much wrecks a session for me. Most dickheads I witnessed from years (decades)back aren't in the lineup anymore - maybe it catches up to even them. May "niceness" continue to factor in our lineup.

i have a couple issues today.
1) the deeper guy crap...one thing i will not stand for here or anywhere is a guy paddling around me for position when a set is on its way. so jackass tried to pull that on me at sloat last week and i just dropped in on him and told him not to paddle around me. he got all uppity and said he was a local here...blah blah blah...if you find someone always paddling deeper then get in perfect position and go.

2) Bolinas question??? --- does anyone have the balls to answer, or am i gonna get the old locals thing....

So my question is this...
I was out there on saturday with my wife just cruising around and i went out to check it, basically saw waist high garabe and around 50 hacks learing how to fall. But the strong n-nw winds were blowing offshore. So what i would like to ask is does that place EVER get decent, i mean 6-8' and rideable or does it close out once it gets head high. Any comments!

It never gets good enough at Bolinas to justify the 75 minute drive.

Especially when the same drive can get you to the westside.

for the most part i agree with blakestah's assessment of Bo-bo. generally small and gutless and poorly shaped. However, it's a good spot to take a beginner. and.. occasionally.. during a huge south swell with North or east winds, with a proper sandbar at the groin.. it can fire tasty lefts..

I've actually scored some good waves at Stinson about 5 or 6 times in the same number of years. I love looking at the mountains behind stinson beach while out in the water. beautiful.

If Marin County had waves it would be the greatest place to live, imho...

it's really a shame.

There is some fun to be had north of Bolenus

thanks for the bolinas comments. i pretty much figured that was the case....but from the looks of it if all things were right (which they never are) it could be fun, but not worth the LONG drive.

blake is right westside is better and closer.

My first Tube ride ever was at Stinson of all places. On a 9 foot longboard of all things. My next wave was a coffin ride/tube, just to confirm the fluke.

I did a lot of learning at Bolinas, and parts there about. It needs a lot of help in the way of swell direction and winds. Basically it works on the same conditions that the Half moon Bay Jetty does. The wave is totally different in character but similar in quality. Think about if you had to drive a couple hours for the Jetty, whether or not you would.

It can be way fun, but if you are any good at all as a surfer, you can find 10 other spots that offer better waves on any particular day.

Oh, and the spots north of Bo-Bo are very fickle.

I spent several years after I moved here staring at maps and guessing spots in Pt Reyes (then and now I did most of my surf spot locating personally, a truly enjoyable pastime). I walked from the Point down to the lagoon, and from the other side down to Bearcat, while big souths were in the water. I figured with that much good southern exposure, there hadda be surf spots.

And honestly, even if I had the time these days, I still wouldn't go up there. The bottom contours are not truly blessed like SC county, and it has a shelf so that waves there are half the size of SC county. And, you pay a $5 toll.

Even people who've grown up (ie: had kids get old enough to go to school) and moved up there regret it from a surfing point of view. Sure, you can surf Marin, but, all things equal, you are probably up there for reasons other than surf.

If I lived in Marin, I'd probably go to the spots up there. But, living here, I'll turn south before I turn north if I have 60-90 minutes to drive. Every time. Disneyland is to the south, and Space Mountain is 73 minutes from Sloat.

E, I dig this blog and the groovy vibe you promote daily. However as a native with 28 yrs. of surfing I do feel that sometimes newbies forget that before, the extereme marketing of surfing, there was a order in the line-ups that was earned. It wasn't perfect or always fair, but it worked. It was based on skill and commitment. It set a standard and if you wanted to play, well you must rise to the standard. It taught respect for the ocean and others. Today, any ho-dad can find the 411 they need to get them in a situation they really shouldn't be in. I agree with all sides becuase surfing is too amazing of a pursuit for people not to enjoy it, and a freindly vibe is always better then an aggro one. But if somenone is taking off deeper, they aren't neccesarrliy burning you. They simply have the skills to make the commitment. Instead of festering negativity about "one of the boys" commiting to a deeper line than you. Walk in his booties, try and acknowledge his surfing expereince. But most importantly take-off deeper and you'll earn it. Peace.

Friend #1 nailed it re: Bolinas. In all these years, I've only caught it really good there once: shoulder to head-high fast, peeling lefts off the groin. 99% of the time it's just a good spot to learn, or worth a check if you're headed that way for some other reason. It IS a beautiful drive. I was up there recently with my wife on a beautiful, sunny day. She had a lot of studying to do, but couldn't stand the thought of being stuck in the house all day. I suggested we take a drive. We could both dig the cruise over Mt. Tam and she could study in the cafe while I got a couple of waves around the corner and down the street. After a couple of hours of fun in tiny waves with some other old guys and a couple of teenagers on logs, I met up with my wife. As it turned out, she didn't get much schoolwork done. She said she was having too much fun talking with various characters in the cafe. I ogled the paipo boards and other old surfcraft in the rafters of the place, while the owner told me the story of each one. We headed back to The City "the long way," along the coast. The sun was low over our left shoulders and we could see all the way to Pillar Point (or was it Pedro Point, I'm not sure which) to the south. Mediocre waves at a mediocre spot, but a GREAT day.

Sonoma and Marin Surf spots: Key Word - Fickle. So if it's good at the usual West Marin or Sonoma spots than it's probably better at SF spots or south....it's just that it means us Sonoma County peeps can drive 20-30 minutes through rolling hills and farm country and surf low crowds and nice scenery. Blake's right - I'm not living up here cuz it's better surf, but I am living up here so I could afford a house and still get to a surf spot in 30 minutes or less. BTW - I can usually be in the water surfing at OB in 45-50 minutes coming from Petaluma, ....OB sessions are chosen about 50% of the time.

i think bola's relative mediocrity is what makes her such a good addition to the local options. i have had such fun at that place. the waves are never too much, the people are never too agro, the lagoon-mouth landlords are (almost) never too obvious. oops, skip that last one.

the best thing about bo is that people can actually practice surfing there, not just the paddling and floating. it's a great place to learn how to dodge folks and to get familiar with general etiquette (once you paddle 50 feet away from the surf campers, i mean).

i was going to try, but it's psychologically impossible to discuss bo and the ethics of paddling deeper at a point break in the same post. they are not from the same planet of surf. one is all about the party wave, one is about not wanting to share anything.

thanks for the comment 3to5setsof7.. nice moniker..

i agree with your line of reasoning and empathize with any bay-area surfing lifer who has witnessed the constant rise in crowds, that must really suck sometimes.

however, the situation on saturday had nothing to do with a deeper takeoff requiring more skill. We were all sitting in a roughly 10 foot area and the takeoff was the same regardless of where you sat. No matter how close to the inside rocks i sat, these two guys would just squeeze in closer, literally sitting right on my rail, to prove a point i think... they were not going to let me take off on a wave if they were anywhere near the takeoff area, regardless of whether or not they had just paddled back from their last ride and i had been waiting patiently. Basically they wouldn't let me set up deeper than them without getting into a paddle/positioning battle, which i just didn't want to deal with A) because it creates weird vibes and B)because these two guys were "locals" that i recognized from many many many sessions and i didn't want to draw their wrath in the future. As the lowly peon i am with only 4 or 5 years of serious surfing in california i sucked it up and let them basically have any wave they wanted, even though i was inwardly chomping at the bit to take off into some of those set-waves and definitetly have the skill and commitment to make the deep takeoff on saturday. I'm cool with the whole pecking order and working your way up in status through skill and commitment over time... it think that's totally fair and reasonable. I just thought it annoying that with 4 people out, when i was obviously taking off deep and making the waves, that these two guys would still just paddle around me every time like i wasn't even there. every time. with only 4 people out. I mean.. i'm just belly-aching.. when in reality i should just sit back and appreciate that i scored solo waves for an hour before they paddled out.

anyway.. thanks for commenting 3to5setsof7.. good waves to ya..

sorry to bring the negative vibes.. i just wanted to get it off my chest.

hey e, sounds like you had some ego in the water more than anything...
where the hell were you surfing, to find 2 guys needing to make an issue?

fickle is it...after living up in marin for a few years after moving out of the city i generally head South as well now. There are some fun days to be had for the diligent and the lucky though.

World Class Breaks in West Marin?

Maybe on the perfect day. Believe me I have surfed West Marin for 18 years and while I have had some super fun sessions, I have also surfed head-high just decent sessions only to come home to OB to find it at 6-8 foot and flawless.

I will chime in on that subject:

I always appriciate the rotation system in these situations. One guy goes, the next one up, etc. If a waves swings wide and the deep guy is too far behind the peak, let it go. But there a million dynamics at work here. You got the "local" thing, you got the "I wanna get mine" thing, you got the "who are you" thing, you got the "the winds are gonna kill it soon so hurry up" thing. How about the "there are 2 more surfers coming out" thing?

Whatever the case, it was a bit bush league. Even worse, each time another surfer is added to the mix, you get a different "thing". How about the "I just killed those last 2 set waves" thing? That pisses me off. You get an opportunity to get a few set waves and the inside guy is nothing more then a bouy.

On that note, anytime someone purposely sits inside, they better make the freakin wave. I will be the first one to let some so-called "local" have their waves. But, if that said "local" dorks a drop or the like, BALLGAME.

BoBo serves its purpose... fun on a log, great place to take beginners, and nice spot if you want a mellow place to chill on your board. Stinson can be great at times... just gotta know when. Hint: extreme high tides in Feb will not disappoint... and who can argue with the view.

Hey E, Who was the topless babe at baker beach?You had a pic of her a couple of months ago.

Top Five reasons to surf Marin over OB:

Golden Gate Bridge Toll.

Dunno, if someone dorks a drop I'd rather hoot em into another, watch em make it and kick out thrilled. I don't concur with folks who surf like they're on a basketball court or football field or golf course. The only tally worth keeping is the stoke everyone leaves the water with. If that means letting some go by, excellent. The folks e encountered are more prevalent than I'd like, but I'm stoked that that approach to the ocean is not the rule. $0.02 (and I won't for a second claim any long-time surfer status--I just enjoy it)

er, ah that shoulda been, "The sun was low over our RIGHT shoulders ..." in my previous post. That's what I get for waxin' all rosey/prosey.

Re: pushing the peak, paddle arounds and other buzzkills to a previously mellow, good-vibed session - it's always a very "sometimes this way/sometimes that way" kinda deal. It sounds like e's experience on Saturday was a matter of, "Take turns? PPSSHHTT! These are OUR waves and we will take every one we want, even if we have to paddle UP this rock and JUMP into 'em." Not an attitude you want to buck, unless you're ready to start a full-on range-war. On the other hand, I have been known to burn people for blatantly paddling around me when a set comes our way. I won't do it if they are legitimately paddling for the peak - if they beat me to it, it's their wave. But if a wave is coming my way and another surfer tries to pull the ole, "I think I'm gonna just scoot over to THIS side of you now ..." - screw 'em - that's not going for wave position, it's just another way to snake someone. But I don't even try to explain that to 'em, it's too subtle a concept for some folks.

e, first of all you did score. keep that stoke forever. these days an hour of that at a brand name spot is sooo swweettt. nor am i advocating that praticular strain of wave entitlement. we all have our share of hassles and drop-ins due to fckn entitlements. fuck' em and PLAY THE GAME if you got the skills and commitment take the wave. if your getting the vibe you got to step up. then you'll get in the rotation. it will open communication even if it's the subtle act of mutual respect and harmony in the water. and by the way execellent choice on the ward coffey. how's it go?

All I know is when Jimmie is around I get fewer waves. He gets this mad look in his eye when he starts paddling for one, and this aircraft carrier board of his starts sounding a fog horn when it planes - really scary thing. Inside or outside he's got the wave.

That aside, if someone comes out and jostles the point, I mix it up. If they take one, come back out and try to take another immediately, I drop in and pull out immediately (or punch through the back and take my board through). That's usually enough for him to realize he's being a jerk without entering a genuine arms race.

A friend of mine, who is much bigger than me, will look him right in the eye, and say "Look, kid, I got a bitch of a wife at home and two whiny kids and the hour I am gonna sit out here is my only satisfaction all week, and I'll be damned if I am going to let you take all the set waves. Get in line."

sounds like there were no waves?

only 4 guys out? means no waves to me.

my advice? wait 'til it breaks. (and leave your cell phone at home)

that's your answer.

Ah, come on blakestah - I'm I really that bad? I guess my obssessive/compulsive tenadncies have been showing. Lo siento.
The posts by this guy 3to5setsof7 have been very interesting. That last reference to e's Ward Coffey was rather intriguing. Feel like your being watched Ethan?

Love your pics you post on your site. I peruse them daily at work to keep me busy, and to keep me stoked. Please don't stop. J

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