a tad larger.. clean.. good!
Woke up to a dark, brooding, mischievous morning. Lerm called at 6:20, a bit exasperated that 50 surf vehicles had pulled into the Sloat lot in the last 4 minutes. We convened at a more low-key spot somewhere in the middle and paddled out. The SF buoy is up a bit from yesterday and conditions reflected it. We struggled through about 4 or 5 rows of frigid whitewater before reaching the lineup.. Waves broke on the outer bar consistently and forcefully. You couldn't really tell from the beach but once out there the peaks rolled in beautifully. The biggest waves a notch over head-high. Lots of peeling sections with makeable micro-barrels on the takeoff. Most waves would peter out after breaking on the outer bar but occasionally you could find a bowl that would lurch and then peel steeply for a while, hooking you with a long, substantial face. I enjoyed one long moment in the green room.. though I wasn't standing on my board.. i took off on a somewhat fierce left.. pig-dogged for an instant and tried to hold on as the lip pitched and threw over-top of me.. then the bottom really dropped out and i had no choice but to leap off my board.. as i soared through the air.. i gazed around in awe at the cylindrical liquid chamber surrounding me!! Yeeeahh!!! then BLLLAAAMMM!! as i got obliterated.. fun though! Yeah.. soo.. there were loads of high-quality, down-the-line rides on offer out there.. with but a few souls speckled about.. It's a good, solid day to get wet.. before the craziness begins.. this afternoon?? The outer buoys are starting to show signs.. California is at 16ft 10.. Papa is at 21ft 11sec. According to Blakestah Saturday will be the macker.. look out.. know your limits.
Soo.. yesterday i continued telling y'all about my strange experiences on Tuesday morning. If you'll remember.. a giant stingray swallowed me in its mouth and took me to some mysterious, enchanted place called the Valley Beyond Time. I communicated telepathically with a pod of giant dolphins who told me that Emperor Necro would speak to me shortly and that i should, in the mean time, enjoy myself surfing the stellar point-break.
Well.. after enjoying an extendo, magical, unreal session at the reeling reefy point that wrapped around the bay.. i began to paddle back toward the beach. The reef shimmered and sparkled with a plethera of vibrant, luminescent hues. Hundreds of striped, fluorescent fish scattered and swam all over the place. I began to stare into this huge patch of brain coral. Something about its cerebral-like pattern held my attention. As i looked deeper and deeper into it's convaluted undulations i began to discern some subtle movement. I refocused my eyes and sure enough watched as the orange brain coral morphed and re-coalesced itself into the form of a face. The face of the brain coral smiled at me! Then winked! Then began speaking.. I saw the lips move but couldn't hear anything until bubbles broke on the surface of the water, and with each bubble a new word let loose into my sonic reach. "Hello... my... friend. Welcome. My name is Necro. We have been anticipating your arrival for longer than you know. For eons we here in the Valley Beyond Time have enjoyed a peaceful, harmonious, unbroken existence since the dawning of the universe itself. The boundless mysteries of nature, thought and creation have stimulated our spirits and engaged our abilities for as long as we can remember. However, one aspect of our world that continually baffles us is the hubris of mankind. Over the last 2 centuries we've been receiving an increasing amount of distressing messages from our oceanic brothers and sisters throughout the earth. We know that you can't answer for the actions of your species, that's not why we brought you hear. You see.. We need to really get inside the human psyche in order to help rectify the harm meted out by the human hand." Tentatively.. i said, "uuhh.. ok." "Thank you, " returned Necro. "We will be communicating with you shortly.. Continue to enjoy the island and all its bountiful treasure.
Soo.. i continued paddling in toward the island. A bit perplexed, baffled and concerned about the conversation that had just transpired. I reached the beach and began to walk up toward the shack. I noticed a plate of fresh fruit and bread on the table.. Huh! cool... i guess... i started eating.. then laid down on a makeshift hammock built of grasses and reeds that hung between two palms.. After dozing off for a spell i awoke and stood up.. i looked down the beach and saw what looked like another human walking up toward me! GUH!!! i looked closer and saw that this human was in fact a voluptuous, dark-skinned, radiant bikini-clad vixen sauntering directly toward me! In a few moments she reached to where i stood and stood directly in front of me. Looking strait into my eyes with her own exotic green eyes. Her hair was dark and thick, pulled back behind her. Her whole body was wet from a recent swim.. She was incredible.. i mean.. just absolutely knock-down gorgeous and sexy and mysterious and... and... something else about her was maybe slighly askew?.. huh.. i wasn't sure.. but.. before i could process that last critical thought.. she reached out for me. grabbed me behind my neck.. pulled me close.. and began kissing me passionately on the mouth. She pulled my body close and i instinctively began caressing her own immaculate skin and body. Soon we were back near the shack.. lying on a few soft, woven, mats made of some natural fiber, in a little clearing near a stream.. We continued to kiss and soon were naked.. She pulled me on top of her and began to wrythe and groan.. She was amazing.. ravishingly beautiful... but.. there was still something.. something fidgety or slightly tweaked about her countenance.. like when you're watching a dvd and you notice a slight pixilation in the picture.. Anyway.. we were now officially, "knocking boots".. it felt great.. wild.. reckless.. triumphant. We both seemed to approach climax at the same time.. Then exploded together. Instantaneously this dark, luscious, divine sexy goddess of a women dissolved into a million, multi-colored, individual little insects.. The insects scattered and ran in all directions all around me but i noticed that many of them formed what looked like a little container near where the woman's groin had been! Other of the millions of insects reformed into the exact replica of a soft, fuzzy koala bear. The koala bear looked at me and again i heard a telepathic voice in my head. "Hello Ethan, This is Necro. Thank you for that sample of your genetic code."
(to be continued)
pics from the sunset ASP contest