E's Surf Report: small.. super fun.. clean!

Man.. I know all you hard-core, burly OB stalwarts will laugh and snicker at what i'm about to say, but, "this morning was fucking rad!!" Shoulder-high, uber-glassy peaks rising and breaking all along the beach. Extremely minimal duck-diving. Technical, zippy, high-performance, quarter-pipe rides. Mini-barrels. PLATE GLASS! no wind. Small, mellow mid-week dawn-patrol crowd. I have to admit these were some of my favorite conditions! Kind-of a like a good day at T-street without the crowds.

nice to see Steve out there stylin' into a few on his longboard. Also a pleasure to watch the legendary Matt "sky" walker slank into a handful of nuggies. Right on gentlemen! keep it up!

soo.. it looks as if, "Something Wicked This Way Comes!" Rumors of, "it's gonna be 30 foot faces at Mavs on Saturday" are floating around the lineup. I can hear the scrubbing sounds of OB chargers re-waxing their 8'6" rhino-chasers for some rain-making sessions at Taraval. Man.. I could deal with a few more mellow days like today.. glassy, small and perfect.. but.. bring the abundance and we'll just have to sort it out.

soo.. yesterday i was describing my mystical encounter with the giant stingray.. It had just slurped me up into it's mouth and commenced flying back out over the ocean. A gelatinous slime encapsulated me inside the mouth and the briny sea-smell nearly knocked me out. But the stingray continued to communicate telepathically with me. It's voice soothed and assuaged my fear. It hummed a melodic story about an ancient, undersea world where immortal sea-beings lived in balanced harmony. I was asleep soon after. I woke up on a sandy beach. Palm trees wafted and chalky, white coral sand squeaked beneath me. I squinted out toward the ocean in the midday glare. Turquoise water as far as i could see. I looked back toward a richly tropical, mountainous island environ. A lush green canopy with huge colorful birds alighting the sky. I turned my head to the left and immidiately watched an immaculate, roping point-break left bend and peel down the far side of the bay within which i sat. WOW!! WHAT?? I turned my head back to the right, scanning, and just coming to my senses.. I noticed a pod of larger-than-normal porpoises bobbing just outside the lapping waves. One seemed to notice my movement and i immediately hear a different, softer, telepathic voice in my head. "Welcome to The Valley Beyond Time. We have been waiting for you and value your presence greatly. Thank you!" Please enjoy this island while Emperor Necro prepares for your consultation." I looked back toward the island and noticed a shortboard and a longboard leaning up against a little shack under some palms. SIIICK! I said, "Thank you. This seems a very enlightened place and i will gladly provide any assistance you may require of me." Next thing i know i'm paddling out to to head-high, 150-yard-long, peeling, barreling point-break perfection. Wondering what i'm doing here. who are these beings. What the fuck is going on??

(to be continued)