« cold.. narsty.. | Main | damn.. goood! »

small but doable..

sorry about the late report.. niceness.org was having some techy problems.. nice work fixing mwsf!

anyway.. this morning actually shaped up into a pleasurable surf experience.
Strong, chilly offshores at around 6:30. I woke up and immediately froze my face off it was so damn frigid!! jeez! But.. i stepped outside, noticed the offshores, checked the sea-surface, and decided to drive down for a cursory look. Waist/chest-high, offshore-groomed windswell offering sections here and there.. pretty small.. Every 5 minutes or so an acceptably rippable wave materialized. Absolutely NOBODY out. Strange because conditions were perfect for beginners.. After chatting with this panhandler i decided to give it a go at Orschmegma (old stompin' grounds).. Mellow, enjoyable session. Caught about 7 rides in 50 minutes.. One other surfer within visable range.. pretty much a solo sesh.. Caught one racy, walling, critical left that i wish i had another chance on as i reverted to my old bad habit of holding the pig-dog too long. I finally let go toward the end of the ride, in time for a quick bottom turn then lip-ride.. it was a nice, "oomphy" wave though, felt good. that's about it for the seshy.. not amazing but definitely surfable.. offshores!! i was shocked to see nobody out.

I'll leave you with some of the things the panhandler said to me:

"I don't fuck with Auntie Bitch, she'll strangle you!" (referring to the ocean)

"Back in '69 we had the summer of love. This winter is going to be the Winter of Sex!" "Everybody's gonna be climaxing all over the place."

RB sent me some classic pics yesterday.. i'll try to post them..

NICE!! i'm lookin forward to the winter of sex!!

speaking of winter, boreal opened last weekend and it's DUMPED everywhere else. hopefully later this week we'll get more snow and get some of the real resorts open. ooooh yeah.

Posted by: j at November 4, 2003 01:56 PM

Hey e, did you have a bright green board ? If so I might have spotted you from afar. Was combing the dog and wistfully watching the fur tumble towards the water. It WAS nice!

OB now: [weird hour 'cuz of upcoming PT appointment] Breeze has shifted onshore. It's flattened out - waist high, maybe shoulder if you're reeeallly lucky - and verrry moooshy. Breeze not blowing hard, currently just enough to chop things up a bit and fark with the shape. Sunny with Falcons or Hawks or some predatory bird ( anyone know? ) tagging gophers right outside my window. Several peeps goofing about. If you have a neglected longboard today and a good attitude today could be it's happy day...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 4, 2003 02:24 PM

Pretty much F-L-A-T... then rain and south winds later this week. What up?

-d

Posted by: dano at November 4, 2003 02:25 PM

Dude, I think that panhandler might have been James Brown.
Winter of sex. That's some funny shit right there

Posted by: cam at November 4, 2003 02:53 PM

Looks like Slats edged out Fanning in the final. Pretty amazing. Two of my favorite surfers. The photo Slater's cutback on www.aspworldtour.com is pretty amazing, though of course now I can't get to it.

Posted by: robme at November 4, 2003 03:11 PM

Posted by: e at November 4, 2003 03:25 PM

graciEEEE!

Posted by: robme at November 4, 2003 03:52 PM

rode some waves....

it was sunny. it was small. it was surfing.


Posted by: tom at November 4, 2003 04:17 PM

oh yeah...

questions...what's the avg swell decay from the ca. buoy to the sf?

how long does swell take (i know depends on period but on avg) to get to sf buoy from pt arena? from eel river?

why does hmb buoy always read larger than sf?

Posted by: tom at November 4, 2003 04:22 PM

Hey, it'd be cool to see Mick win the tour... although Kelly and Andy are going to be hard to beat in HI. Here's the top 5 standings:

1 Slater,Kelly USA 8340
2 Irons,Andy Haw 7692
3 Fanning,Mick Aus 7080
4 Burrow,Taj Aus 7020
5 Perrow,Kieren Aus 6480

I'll add to Tom's first post... it was cold!

-d

Posted by: dano at November 4, 2003 04:48 PM

WASHINGTON — The Environmental Protection Agency said Monday it will formalize a policy allowing sewage treatment plants to skip a process for killing some pathogens after heavy rains or snow melts.

read the article

Posted by: e at November 4, 2003 04:55 PM

papa buoy is at 7ft 17seconds!?!

Posted by: e at November 4, 2003 05:03 PM

tom, a lot of your questions are answerable on the prediction page on my site.

To determine a distance, use lat-long coordinates.

Swell traveling time depends on the swell speed and distance, and swell angle relative to distance angle. For example, the CA buoy is about 270 degrees to us. So, a 300 degree swell will hit us with less delay than a 270 degree swell (it may help to draw it out on paper).

CA buoy is anywhere from 3 times larger than our buoy, to the same size, depending on swell angle, period, and wind direction. Tailwinds really help swells along.

HMB buoy is more exposed than the SF buoy to 320 degree swells. SF buoy is partially blocked by Pt Reyes.

The Papa buoy is showing a swell from a really long way away, should be good fun before the southerlies get too strong.

Posted by: blakestah at November 5, 2003 09:55 AM

If you aren't surfing now, you are missing great small waves.

Posted by: Mr Doof at November 5, 2003 10:03 AM

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