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cold.. narsty..

Onshores blowin' tough out of the NW.
White-caps plaguing the sea-surface.
Junkified wind-swell.. SF buoy at 6ft 8seconds..
Icy, chilly weather at the beach.
Nadda for surf in SF today.. though if you're super-mega-desperate you could probably nab a rideable corner or two or six out at OB. Then come in and thaw-out in your hot shower for about 30 minutes.

Blakestah's forecase looks bleak for the rest of the week.. Rain coming.. minimal swell.. but maybe a shift in the wind by Wed to a SE wind.. Soo.. be on the lookout (smell-out) for hazardous wastes swilling and collecting in the surfzone later this week as the rain washes out all the pollutants that have been collecting in stormdrains, backyards, gutters, etc.. all summer!!

soo.. that's the somewhat depressing current state of the surf situation in SF.. Now.. on a more positive note.. The surf this past weekend!!!!

Saturday - best day of the season so far?? It gets my vote. I wasn't here on the 26th but saturday (nov 1rst) was "off the fricken hook!" Lerm called me at about 7am and left a voice-mail stating that the surf was on fire... I, of course, slept in after Holloween merriment and woke up at 9:30 and heard his message. I looked out the window and saw the bushes and trees moving in the wind and figured the surf must be blown out.. A few minutes later i was skating to the store for orange juice and i noticed that the wind was, in fact, blowing offshore!!! That struck a nerve in me and i quickly turned westward to see that the ocean looked polished smooth, colored an inviting dark blue. Fuuuck!!! I fricken sprinted back to my house.. delivered Seymore her coffee and bagel.. sucked down a phat ripper... dove into my wetty.. and literally mach-speeded down the hill to the beach. Over the dunes and i was shocked at how perfect the waves looked! I mean.. headhigh+, reeling, sometimes-barrelling-but-not-too-insanely, offshore-licked muscular wind-swell.. Tons of waves.. People getting rides all over the place.. Legions of people strewn across the lineup but not too terribly crowded right in front of me.. Needless to say i was out there in a flash.. SOo friggin psyched.. Took about 10 on the head getting past the impact zone.. but then it was all gravy. Stayed out for almost 3 hours.. until the wind switched to side-shore (out of the north) and then onshore... Probably caught 30-or-so waves.. stoked..

Then yesterday the swell went way way down.. I suited up and ran down there.. thinking it might be a repeat of saturday.. and was disappointed by the lackluster swell.. but there was absolutely NOBODY out at 9am sunday morning.. with no wind.. and fun, shoulder-high, east-coast-like peaks. I surfed solo for about an hour and a half.. i found this little right that kept offering up a steep, immediate drop and then a sculpted wall good-enough for one maneuver before the wave mushed out.. I literally did laps at this peak.. constantly paddling north to stay on it. Probably 7 or 8 rides that were very near identical allowed me to work on steep/small wave takeoffs and then doing the quickest-possible bottom-turn/top-turn combo in order to maximize the small section available.. I could feel the subtle improvement in my technique as i had time and waves to practice the same thing over and over again. it was fun..

anyhoo.. anybody have good saturday stories.. i'm sure the whole coast lit up..

sweet..

Tom sent this pic of Alex Martins at Mavs.. (he's the guy getting dropped in on)

This little Kauai wahine Bethany lost her left arm to a tiger shark on holloween.. thanks bigmig for the info.. bethanyhamilton.com

Wanna sbake a few lines on e's sight to refer you all to bethanyhamilton.com. In case you didn't catch the news from Kauai over the weekend Bethany, age 13, lost her left arm to a tiger shark haloween morning. As evidenced by the photos on her sight, she's a ripper, one of the most enthusiastic and fluid young surfers I've ever had the pleasure of trading waves with. If you all could take a moment to write her or send a donation to her foundation, I'm sure she would appreciate it.

Posted by: bigmig at November 3, 2003 10:14 AM

tragic story, bigmig. i hope she recovers soon and maintains her ripin' ways.

missed out on the sweet-sounding waves on Saturday (waaaaaayyyy too hung-over from an uber-fun Halloween), but did manage a desperation sesh at sunset that looked heinous, but actually offered up some fun, fast (somewhat abusive) sections. just what the hang-over doctor ordered!! followed that up with a small, but chilly-chill sesh with friends on Sunday morning. kind.

i look forward to being tortured by all the stories of epic niceness in the water on Saturday morning that will inevitably flow from all you heads!

Posted by: ck at November 3, 2003 11:03 AM

prepare to be outraged..

japanese hunt and eat dolphins..

Posted by: e at November 3, 2003 11:17 AM

Harsh news about Bethany Hamilton. Tragic. Sounds like an incredibly tough kid, though. The photo of her bitten-up board in the Star Bulletin is chilling.

Saturday was gorgeous. In the water around Irving at 8 a.m. and the offshores were perfect. I've had trouble adjusting to offshores in the past, so I was expecting some over-the-falls action, but somehow may have finally cleared that mental hurdle. The lefts were really fast, due, I think, to the NE wind holding the faces open. Best surf day in a year, in my book.

Ended up drifting south to Noriega, was waiting for a wave to catch to the beach, when my right foot kicked some substantial marine life form. I hauled ass to the beach, riding a couple waves boogie board style, and told myself it was just a pinniped, just a pinniped. Then, walking back north on the beach, I see the Marine Mammal Center people tending to a shark-bitten seal. It was still alive, and looked like a corn dog with a bite out of it. The MMC folks said it had probly been bitten by a juvenile whitey; they were going to euthanize it.

Posted by: redworm at November 3, 2003 11:34 AM

OB: Brr. Strong, steady onshores making temps chilly and the water choppy. Flat to 4 foot mush, bumpy and closely clumped together. However... ye olde -heh - workable shoulders have been sited but no takers today. The wind brings with it a whiff of Wave Repellent™ - if you do go out be careful not to get dosed, those soft shoulders look super shifty.

Aw Bethany!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 3, 2003 11:55 AM

barney... up there..

Posted by: e at November 3, 2003 12:13 PM

My best to Bethany.

I have to agree with e, Saturday was the best day of the year! I smacked myself a few times to make sure that I wasn't dreaming. Had the place all to myself for the first 45 minutes of the sesh. Caught many a glory rides and some really nasty wipe outs. One where my board smacked me in the head really hard. The peaks were coming in fast and shifty.

redworm, while I was out there solo, I saw something that I thought was a dolphin, but I just barely caught a glimpse of it. I found it strange that there were no seals around. Yikes!

mwsf and I had a fun little session on Sunday morning, but it was hard to get excited after Saturday.

Posted by: lerm at November 3, 2003 12:22 PM

Hey E,

I actually surfed right in front of you on Saturday. A white guy with a fro and a beard, I was going to say howdy and that I love the site but you looked wave busy and so was I.

Great seeing you catch wave after wave,
stylish surfing dude!

Posted by: Phil Young at November 3, 2003 01:03 PM

Wow. Reading today's post greatly depresses me to be locked in So Cal on a day such as Saturday. Actually I was getting sloshed Friday night in Santa Barbara with a lot of my friends! Everyone who scored on Saturday, I'm stoked for you guys, now please feel sorry for all of us who couldn't enjoy it. Going down to check the all the beaches in a bit. Getting dark early is killing me. Well, I'm 21 on Friday, so... I'll probably have some stories, if I remember any. I'm going to post a comment or write a letter to Bethany. She is still alive, and that is what's important. It could have been a much sadder story. I'm out!

Posted by: Ian at November 3, 2003 01:18 PM

No epic shots, but I got a few photos from the south end on Saturday. What a great morning!

http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%203.htm

Posted by: Bruce at November 3, 2003 01:25 PM

christian - right on my brotha!! barrels!!

Phil Young - dude.. glad to share the lineup with ya! sorry if i was wave-hoggin! i can sometimes do that.. siiick!

Ian - happy 21st! damn.. you're a youngin' enjoy!!!

Bruce! - you're the friggin man!!! nice shots..
here are a few..

Posted by: e at November 3, 2003 01:36 PM

wa wa wa? holy crap, i missed it..why has halloween forsaken me? looks epic. you guys are stoked!!!

Posted by: bagel at November 3, 2003 01:49 PM

here's to sending the good vibes to bethany for a solid recovery and hopes that she doesn't give up the passion to be in the water.

i passed on the friday craziness and drove to costanoa with my lady. woke up late and drove down the coast but wasn't inspired by the waist-high dribblers after the epic session on friday. camped at pfieffer state park in big sur on saturday night. absolutely beautiful - especially when the crowds aren't around. i was hoping for some surf at a.m. state park but hiked out to the beach and found perfectly shaped knee-high barrels wrapping around the rocks. had a long talk with the ranger there and he told some insane stories of that place breaking on a big northwest. may have to do some camping down there again later this year.

so i didn't get any this weekend down in big sur but i explored a lot of potential breaks, hugged a lot of trees and had some solid time with my lady. and that's a good weekend...

Posted by: caveman at November 3, 2003 02:36 PM

wow, saturday sounds and looks like shit!! christian is usually pretty stoked, but saturday seems to have him maxed out on excitement. good stuff!! this also reminds me that last nov. 1st after a fun halloween in the castro also had good surf... it was a Friday, with shining sun and offshores too. i seem to be slightly mistimed for my cali visit, with the swell / weather forecast as it is... but i'm remaining hopeful for some rides when I can get in the water again later this week. anyway, i've been really psyched on the visuals of norcal filling my eyes again... golden oaks, aqua pacific sunsets... california is a beautiful place to live!

Definitely sending my best to Bethany... she seems to have an amazing attitude, which should hopefully help her keep ripping through life with style.

Posted by: jake at November 3, 2003 03:56 PM

ok, those OB shots....sick.

gotta go change my shorts.

Posted by: j at November 3, 2003 03:57 PM

saturday was so good.. jeez.. When can we get that again? I'm jonesin' already..

for any of you that missed it.. don't worry.. it wasn't that fun.. pretty crowded.. the barrels looked fun but not spectacular.

for anyone that scored it.. niiiice.. let those memories guide you through this downtime..

Posted by: e at November 3, 2003 04:06 PM

Got up Sat. and checked the buoys, felt the wind, knew it was on. I updated the report, and went for a hike with my kid (shoulder still out).

Around noon, I get a phone call. Kaiser calling. He is en route from Andrew Molera, winds killed it there and everywhere on the way back. I kindly filled him in that OB was shack city, slightly overhead, offshore. They stepped on it, and made it to OB at about 1:30.

Unfortunately, the offshores stopped at noon. Well, it was kind of amusing to me, at least. My eyes at the beach said at 10 AM they had NEVER seen so many peeps in the water.

Anyone ever take a road trip to avoid waves ?

Posted by: blakestah at November 3, 2003 04:09 PM

The long term forecast. A strong high has formed just east of the Rockies. If the high over the Pacific breaks down, and the one over the rockies move west just a little, we transition into our best beach surf weather pattern.

Should take about 7-10 days to happen.

Posted by: blakestah at November 3, 2003 04:56 PM

Never fails...every time I go out of town..we have "best of season" waves. Had to go to NYC and Jersey this weekend for some family stuff. Saturday looks like it was unreal. Oh, and the November streak we had last year...out of town. Oh, and just so you guys can plan for this, I will be out of town from the 19th to the 29th. So I can pretty much guarantee it will be off the hook again. Going to New Orleans for a little family Tgiving so at least I can drown my sorrows in some cheese grits and fried turkey.

Y'all come back now, y'hear?

Posted by: jdz at November 3, 2003 06:03 PM

jdz, haha, that was awesome man. I'm sorry, I feel your pain, but it was amusing as well :D Jake word Cali being a great place to live! I'm very lucky and fortunate!

Posted by: ian at November 3, 2003 06:48 PM

saturday was fabulous.

but first, some credit where its due: to e and his halloween post.

a deep sense of regret took root at work on friday after i read about the bewitching stillness and the blessings of the Wiccan goddesses. to make up for it, i planned an early morning at ob on sat. hit mid-beach for about 2 hours on my shortboard, where my inconsistent performance was outshined by the amazing conditions. came in, stoked, burnt an offering to the goddesses, and went back out for an hour on my longboard with 2 beginner friends at sloat. they were a bit intimidated but they both got out.

sounds like there were tricks and treats for everyone.

thanks, e (& robme & lerm)!

Posted by: loon at November 3, 2003 06:54 PM

Hey E. Thanks for the feeback on the pics. Did better with the camera than with my 7'8". The waves were backing off (for me) and the current sent me half way to Funston before I knew it. (OB wimp?) Wish I had brought my chubby board. The longboarders were clearly scoring.

Really enjoying your site. Surfing with "niceness" is so cool!

Posted by: Bruce at November 3, 2003 07:31 PM

Get well, Bethany!

Posted by: tom at November 3, 2003 08:26 PM

Yea Saturday has my vote. I got my ass up early for the 6am dawn patrol at the windmill but it was too small so I paddled in and headed further south. First guy out at Slut too (what were the guys in the parking lot waiting for?). Great waves - 'nuff said.

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