E's Surf Report: found a few.. the beach getting fugly

Happy monday!! Got up at the butt-crack again to meet Tom and Christian for some waves.. Happy birthday Christian! Flatness spoiled our plans and i drove around for a bit searching.. finally found a few small fun ones and shared the lineup with Da Blakestah, this mellow kneelo guy and a few others. The kneeboarder had cut up one of those Ridge Rest camping mats and glued it onto his board for grip/padding.. pretty weird looking. anyway a few blips cruised in and offered a face or two in some shallow water. I managed to nab two or three shoulder-high set waves that refilled my stoke tanks for the long work day ahead. Nothing amazing but at least some waves.. i was surfing this old flourescent yellow 80's board that i bought used when i was 15 yrs old. It has channels and some good vibes radiating off it.. thus it's name, "Mellow Yellow"... It felt sluggish and unwieldy compared to my modern mini-gun/shortboard but on this one section i managed to balance myself and whip it around on a backside bottom turn.. then i kind-of threw it as high up on the lip as i could and it snapped around just fine.. the extra bulk and size actually felt solid through the turn.. pretty cool to surf weird/various boards. I've actually never tried a single fin.. anybody out there ride them regularly?

yesterday witnessed a compete zoo at a certain local point/reef. probably 30 or 40 people in the lineup.. i rolled up around 6:45 and at first glance thought there was no way i would paddle out in that crowd.. But.. conditions were really unusual and windswelly... enough waves to go around! seriously.. wave-machine status out there.. nothing big or perfect.. but.. glassy and peeling.. little nuggety barrels and corners and sections.. they just kept rolling in and peeling along.. super sunny and glassy.. HOWEVER! I witnessed two fights in the water!! and much much non-niceness yelling and barking and chest-pounding.. I have to admit that one of the altercations was *almost* morally sound. this one guy who i had never seen around kept purposefully dropping in on people. he would actually look down the line, see someone already on the wave.. and then deliberately burn them. I was poking and slanking around the inside, picking off scraps and inside wrappers along with this dark-skinned local yokel.. a guy who rips seriouse shiat and also isn't afraid to "throw-down".. anyway.. both of us were paddling back out and we watched this newcomer guy burn yet another guy (one of those mellow japanese heads that are cruisy and are always around).. anyway the burner and the japanese guy actually collide and wipe-out right near the dark-skinned local and myself.. when the burner surfaces the dark-skinned local paddles over and gives him a few quick, violent slaps and blows to the face and says, "GO HOME!" I couldn't really believe it but at the same time i understood where the local was coming from. sort-of.. i don't think the physical contact was necessary at all or called for.. but the firm, serious, "GO HOME" was totally deserved.. not that i'd ever do something like that.. but.. i think it's the first case of semi-justified localism i've ever witnessed. hard-core though.. I was kind-of stony so the violence and anger were just absolulely foreign to my frame-of-mind.. anyway.. the cop/surfer that wears the white helmet and is always tossing around horrible vibes also got into a scrap with this longboarder who for some reason just wouldn't back down.. at that point i removed myself entirely from the main concentration of surfers and continued to poach scraps and nuglets on the inside.. I ended up surfing for about 3 hours and really achieved some progress on my backside bottom-turn top-turn combo (no pigdog).. it was really fun to try to take steep-drops without pigdogging.. it sets you up for an immediate high-speed bottom-turn so much better.. (still ya have-to pigdog dat shite when barrels are in the midst)... I also pulled off one of the first legit?? roundhouse cutties i've ever done.. bottom turn.. then pivot and turned all the way around.. still somehow had speed and i then turned up and banked off the whitewater.. I tried to aggressively thrust my board up and then through the white-water on the rebound and i think that confidence and aggression helped me power through it successfully.. then recovered and turned back down the line.. felt pretty cool! but.. just to keep things *real* i also succumbed to a few atrocious over-the-falls wipe-outs and then was dragged into the rocks on the inside.. repeatedly.. i have this pseudo-technique of making my body all limp and spongy when i know i might wash across some rocks.. anyway.. some good surfing went down as well and it was fun to watch.

looks like the beeeatch is funked and warbled right now.. i guess it was surfable this morning.. supposedly kind-of mushy with peaks and relative mellowness.. anybody rip it up?

Hungington Beach

Yes!!!
yes!!!!!!