E's Surf Report: up at the butt-crack.. found some empty waves

Woke up early and drove for a while.. found this semi-protected little wave that showed the dwindling remnants of south-swell energy. Nobody out when i first walked down and checked it.. Was about to assume it flat when a fun-looking 3 wave set marched through and peeled along. huh! Donned the seal-suit and paddled out. Out in the lineup by myself.. paddling into fun shoulder-high peelers. mostly lefts but a few rights too.. I really enjoy surfing by myself. You can sit wherever you want in the lineup.. take any wave you want.. pass on waves if you think there might be a better one behind it, work on random parts of your surfing technique, kick-back and take in your surroundings without any mental energy expended toward crowd dynamics. Thoughts of the "the landlord" had me spooked a few times and stopped me from ye ol' wetsuit piss. But.. waves just kept meandering through and i couldn't really believe nobody else had paddled out.. About 20 rides into my session i sat up on my board and deeply, seriously gave praise to mother ocean and the surf gods for blessing me with these empty waves. I gave thanks to my family/friends/life for giving me the knowledge and health to be able to enjoy this rare bounty. and.. i continued catching waves and trying to smash the lip and carve around.. A few waves later another surfer paddles out.. kinda out-of nowhere.. He positioned himself way on the inside. I caught a wave and rode past him and then paddled by him on my way back out. He was super smiley and enthusiastic. Stellar vibes right away.. i waved and he waved back and said, "I just wanted to catch a few waves, my name is Kevin, Hello." He shot me the biggest smile. I said that my name is Ethan and that i'd be psyched to share a few with him. I caught the first wave of the next set then watched as he caught the second wave.. i gave him a hoot as he was paddling into it.. Next thing i know he's getting out of the water.. After only one wave! He saw me looking and gave a wave and a thumbs up.. just so i wouldn't think he was hurt or anything.. crazy! but.. as i was sitting out there, solo again.. i had this weird vision that Kevin somehow represented the manifestation of the surf gods.. As i had been sitting out in the water, thankful and downright shocked at my luck this morning.. the surf gods descended down upon me in the form of this happy/smily/good-viby surfer and just shared a few moments with me. Kind-of a quick, personalized spiritual high-five. I feel really relaxed, centered and blessed right now. I feel really thankful to be healthy and alive. Just lucky and thankful. I think about all the angry people out there.. all the people who really struggle and fight and don't feel happy.. or at least happiness some of the time. I feel really lucky.

Speaking of angry people and feeling compassion for those less fortunate. I think about the Dwayniac. I admit i don't know him or what makes him tick.. but i feel bad for the guy. When he's doing his spazzy, maniacal 4-mile-psycho barking.. he's just radiating the most negative/vile/repulsive energy. He's showering those around him with anger and hatred, bile and darkness. People don't like him.. and those that might appreciate his successful lineup clearing only tolerate his excesses. He's sinking himself down into a karmic pit of dispair everytime he goes crazy on someone that doesn't deserve it. The negative energy he puts out immediately comes back to him in the way he gets treated by others. I hope that the Dwayniac can one day find some happiness and just enjoy himself in the water, enjoy his talented surfing and enjoy the amazingly wave-rich area in which he lives. The same karmic lesson will invariably be felt by all local lineup thugs. It seems to be the way the world works. The energy and vibrations you radiate out toward others reflects back to you. like a mirror.

t-poo
beautiful detruction