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Camping along the central coast during a huge NW swell.
Beachbreaks maxing.
Mysto spots coming alive.
Chargers charging tucked away chargeable thrice-a-year bomboras.
Wind threatening.
We drive around, searching for our spot.
15 guys on one nice, glassy ledge.
Hoh! did you see that spit!
Arg.. lots of closeouts though and not quite working.
Keep driving.
Pass another delightful looking point/reef.
20 guys.
Aura of localism.
We keep going.
Drive down to a semi-protected beachie.
Sideshores hint at onshore.
A few sections amidst the voluminous closeouts.
We're out there.
20 on the head.
A few hell-raiser drops.
Limited rideable walls.
We're all caught inside and not making progress.
Leave the wetsuits on and back to the car.
Back to that offshore-groomed, protected point-reef.
We brace ourselves for steely glares and stinkeye.
Pull up and only 4 people out now.
Wait in the car for a bit and hail shiva.
Thank the surf god the four guys look to be exiting.
Hellz yeah.
We scamper down there and one youngin tells us to go away.
Umm.. sorry mr diminutive tough-guy surfer dude.
Another friendly bodyboarder tells us how to negotiate the rocky entry.
Mustache and mullet and post-session stoke.
The three of us share the boil-strewn, character-rich lineup for a few hours.
The tide is probably too low for most people to consider it working.. but we don't care.
The sets lope in. 3-5 sets of 7.
Shorn, rounded mountains in the distance.
Pumping for speed to make the sections.

from patagonia.com

Iceman shots from below the border




Annual SC camping trip on Monday
Exact same crew as was 5 years ago
The one time to be totally immature
The one time to not care

Uplands campground at Manresa
Surf may be shitty…..so?
I am with 10 other friends
No surf a reason to start drinking

Campfires always lead to reminiscing
“Member that hot Freshman!”
“Heard she got prego”
“No shit!…pass me a beer please”

Late night revelry
Every year a ranger rolls. Every year!
Always a surfer. “Quiet down guys.”
Time to hit the sack

We always wake up early camping
Head hurts. Slug water. Check the surf
First duckdive actually feels great
Surf. Beach. Skim. Ultimate Frisbee. Nap

The best part of the summer
Each year produces something new
A story for our kids
Never the last time.

Posted by: seascum [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 10:52 AM

awesome seascum. thanks for writing that.
have fun.

Posted by: e [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 11:00 AM

ya, nice ones you 2. low expectations are key

Posted by: bajel [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 11:57 AM

Agreed. Nice one seascum and eeee.

Got a small session in this morning. Mid-thigh peaky glass and in boardshorts. Can't really complain.

Mike Scheer

Posted by: Hb [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 12:14 PM

I love the mustache/mullet surfers who absolutely kill it. They are so retro!

Posted by: toooshy [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 12:37 PM

fred frith on improvisation:

"I don't know if I'm striving for anything that I can put into words. Improvised music involves a lot of intuition and I like developing intuition. I like the speed of it. I like, very much, playing in duos, because it's a very refined form of communication. You have to be very, very much aware of what the other person is doing and not doing. It's like a form of play, in a way. It's got a lot of play elements. It involves a high degree of alertness. You are, very much, seeing what happens, so on the one hand, you're in control and on the other, you're not.

"You could say that everything the musicians have learned and known over the years, all of their technical resources, are in a dialogue with the things they are discovering every time, as if it was the first time. So there's a tension between this kind of knowledge and this kind of discovery that's going on in the performance, and this can lead in any direction.

"For example, Chris [Cutler] and I play in a lot of different contexts. We play melodic music, we play songs, we play all kinds of things and when you improvise you don't just shut out different languages, you use all the languages that you have. Not necessarily in one concert, but they're all there to be used if you want to use them. There's an awful lot of resources that can be drawn upon in an improvised music concert."

Posted by: e [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 12:40 PM

Pic #5 is the toughest lineup I've seen sincethe last time I surfed Lindy.

I wish I could play music.

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 12:45 PM

anyone can play music. the tragedy of the last century is that it's become assumed that only talented musicians will play music. that's robbing most of us of a lot of fun. we don't even listen to music together as much as we did a couple of decades ago. music is becoming this gem to be produced only by virtuosos and to be experienced only in the privacy of one's ipod.

art, too, for that matter.


Posted by: kloo [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 01:17 PM

in my biased view this is your best ever e.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 02:44 PM

My wetsuit is too dry. All dings known and unknown, drained. Toes, fidgety for the feel of wax. Dried salt speckles the fins. 273-1618, monotonous. 333-0100, predictable. Buoys, New Jersey-fied.

Surf starvation.

Posted by: Ancient Jetties [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 03:02 PM

Boy what a drought.

Anyone know of a good site (outside of wetsand etc...) for checking the swell and forecast for N Baja? Thinking of a trip down next weekend perhaps.

I need to get inland and start w/skiing again...something...

Posted by: ankors [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 04:02 PM

5ft at 8 seconds n'oh shitmon
brings back memories of the flatlantic buoys
(on a good day)
at least fall is getting closer everyday
my wetsuit is so dry it is cracking.

Posted by: toneman [TypeKey Profile Page] at July 7, 2006 06:39 PM
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