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Lineup dynamics.

Reflections on surfing tight, crowded reefs, points and peaks:
Survey the scene and don't rush to the main takeoff spot.
Paddle out by yourself or stagger if with friends.
Know who's who, or make a good guess.
Ease yourself into the flow.
Position yourself for inside scraps and leftovers? maybe.
Set up wide and outside for the bombs?
Jostle with the local boys in the hopes of getting a few gems?
Who are the locals?
You can generally just tell.
And you're not one of them. (unless you're one of them).
If you work your way into a nice wave and kill it, you get respect.
Deep barrels and charging get respect.
Insane takeoffs get respect.
Taking off deep with panache gets respect.
Mellow, non-hassling lineup demeanor gets respect. (or at least tolerance).
Biffing take-offs puts you at the end of the line.
Kooking out or displaying poor style - end of the line.
Aggressive jockeying tactics - end of the line (and serious stinkeye).
If you spoil the flow of the lineup by inexperienced/kooky positioning/paddling/anything - that's bad.
Stay out of the way.
Don't drop in.
Stay out of the way.
Don't drop in.
Don't shoulder-hop unless you think there is a real chance someone deeper will fall or not make it.
Try to have fun and project good vibes.
It's easy to start taking it too seriously.
Have patience. Don't over-yearn for waves.
Look for alternative opportunities.
Another spot way down the line where nobody is sitting?
Maybe sit way inside and take the big sets on the head but pickup the wedgy little scraps?
Let the pack froth for the first 2 or 3 waves of a set while positioning yourself for the hopeful 4th or 5th wave?
Know who in the lineup is going to make waves and who might not. Position accordingly.
Know your abilities.
If you charge, then fucking charge charging chargeables.
If you're not so chargy.. then sit down the line or don't paddle out.
Be patient. Let other people catch waves.
Chill.
Stay out of the way.
Don't drop in.
When you see a chance. Take it. Don't hesitate. GO!
Paddle hard and commit. Don't hesitate. GO!
Enjoy your rides.
Savor them.
Paddle back out slowly.
Look for opportunities down the line.
Re-scope the lineup while paddling back out.
Sometimes you can nab 2 or 3 waves in succession on your way back out.
Dudes in the lineup are looking out to sea, not down the line.
The main takeoff is not always the best.
People glom where other people are. Take chances and try new micro-areas.
Charge.
Stay out of the way.
Don't drop in.
Have fun!

stinkeye photo
non-niceness

I agree, e

Posted by: first at February 9, 2006 10:09 AM

This is gonna be a really good day on this blog, I can just feel it.

Posted by: second at February 9, 2006 10:11 AM

know what you want.
paddle out where you want.
sit where you want.
take the waves you want.
fall if you want.
sing barry manilow songs at the top of your lungs if you want.
leave without a want.

Posted by: KIX at February 9, 2006 10:16 AM

niceness entry today...

Posted by: KG at February 9, 2006 10:19 AM

I recently surfed for the first time a focused, loc'ed, not-talked about, experts-only wave.

In a discussion I had about the place with aother surfer who has surfed it bunches.

"No real vibe, per se, except that people will get pissed at little stuff, like getting in the way, or paddling for a wave and pulling out at the last minute, etc."

How easily this can be misconstrued as localism, or a situation described as such can just evolve into the scene related late yesterday by slugger.

Early in my Career, I surfed another Loc'ed out spot in San Mateo. Paddled into an inside scrap that I thought no one could be on. After I pull out, a guy races by, and then paddles back over to me. I was totally screamed at:

"Where did you come from" I ask.
"I was in the Fucking Tube, you Asshole!"


On and on, I apologise. I decide to go in and paddle into a total crap wave that definitely no one is on.

Someone shoulder hops me, but pulls behind me and then rides accross my path yelling Kook!

I still occasionally see the Dude that Yelled at me, and we have traded waves in many a crowded line-up, where we are among the elite that have their pick of the prime peaks. We even shoot the shit from time to time about mutual acquaintences.

There will always be a vibe of some sort. Just roll with it. Learn from it. Adjust your self to it. And try to use it only in moderation.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 9, 2006 10:27 AM

surf is still really large and hammering out there. checked the south end. solid DOH++, funny thing the north end was barely head high, a real dramatic change in size. watched for 20 min, no rides 5 guys out.

Posted by: dsx at February 9, 2006 10:39 AM

Somewhere at the top of the list should be "if it's already crowded when you get there, go somewhere else."

Posted by: R3W at February 9, 2006 10:40 AM

OB is pounding this morning.
Took out the 7'6" pintail. Scan the beach for a channel. Don't really see any, but there is a spot that looks like it is between peaks. Go for it. Paddle, paddle, duck dive. The 7'6" is a little stiff for duck diving, but I push real hard on the tail with my foot, and manage to get it under a few.
Try to duck dave an 8' bomb that I'm a little too far inside to duck dive. The lip crashes down on the back of my legs and rips me off my board.
Next wave washes me in.
Try again, paddle, duckdive, paddle, duckdive.
A couple of younger guys paddle past me, but we basically catch up with eachother at the crease.
Another big set.
This time I don't get washed inside, but hold my position well enough, and I make it out during the ensuing lull.
Get into one, long drop, turn, and on the shoulder, up and over before it fades out.
Next one, take off late, head first dive off the front of my board. 20 second hold down, painful...
Pop up, out of breath, paddle back out, starting to feel late for work.
Get into my last one after dodging bombs for 15minutes.
Similar to the first, long drop, turn around the foam, onto the shoulder, work it, work it, straighten out and come in.
Other guys getting much better ones than me.
Watch them for a few minutes and start feeling like a kook.
Late for work - walk back up the hill and get ready for a day in the cube.

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 10:43 AM

Great post this morning! Great post!

Posted by: Kaiser at February 9, 2006 10:47 AM

Damn it was nice out there this morning. Surfed my secret spot. Amazingly 3 friends paddled out right before me...whoa, a crowd! Beautiful, large, pitching, groomed peaks emptying into, ready for this, channels! Big drops, chattering down the face, actual hollowness. They left after about an hour and I soloed it for the next 30 minutes. Faith restored.

Pecking order is a strange phenomena. Seems I get left alone more now because I am older and I sit farther outside so there is less jostling. In my younger days I would get severly hassled at the Lane. After surfing there often enough a couple of local friendlies recognized me, said howzit and the vibe kinda stopped.

This past week I was at the Lane on a largish, lined up day. Four or five Mavericks regulars showed up as the wind was killing it to the north. They were all cool. But, this one guy who was their bud but had never surfed Mavericks started playing little games with me when I caught too many waves. Once, when I was right in position he paddled right in front of me and tried to catch the wave but missed. Then I caught the next wave to his inside as he scrambled but couldn't get into that one either. On the way back out I was paddling near where he was sitting. He then paddled a couple of stokes, right into my path and sat up forcing me to go around him or collide. Self-esteem problems there.

Posted by: kdalle at February 9, 2006 10:49 AM

nice ones sactomex and kdalle! charging!

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 10:51 AM

Posted by: Kaiser at February 9, 2006 10:51 AM

Reef? What's a reef?

Posted by: Burnt Reynolds at February 9, 2006 10:52 AM

peaved about old locals that feel they own the peak
the commoners tend to defer to these self-proclaimed royalty and allow them consisitent ride after ride on the main peak while jostling for the leftovers
as a visitor to a very popular so cal break (dora, gidget, etal) i experienced this phenomenon and marveled at the behavior of otherwise competent surfers that consistently backed down and pulled out to allow the skinny bearded guy on the long board unrestricted access to the wave
I was, by the way, quite successfully adhering to the practice of letting the first two or three go and hoppin on the fourth of the set...
towards the end of my session, curiosity prevailed and i decided to tempt fate and shoulder hop the skinny bastard.
we partied the wave for quite a lengthy ride together. i carved a few ups and downs on the wave face but didn't even think about doing a cut back on him ...all the while he's yellin in my ear from behind "No,No,No,No" as if it were the only command he's ever had to use as king of the break.
i got out walked up the beach with my rental board got in my rental car and haven't surfed the 'bu since. Perhaps I never will..until the old man retires.

Posted by: snake at February 9, 2006 10:52 AM

really enjoying the writing and session reports lately.

Posted by: kloo at February 9, 2006 10:53 AM

reset your watches gentlemen wicked weasel says it is already 3:00pm

Posted by: tightness at February 9, 2006 10:54 AM

from the New York Times today:

By DAVID BROOKS
Published: February 9, 2006
You want us to know how you feel. You in the Arab European League published a cartoon of Hitler in bed with Anne Frank so we in the West would understand how offended you were by those Danish cartoons. You at the Iranian newspaper Hamshahri are holding a Holocaust cartoon contest so we'll also know how you feel.

Well, I saw the Hitler-Anne Frank cartoon: the two have just had sex and Hitler says to her, "Write this one in your diary, Anne." But I still don't know how you feel. I still don't feel as if I should burn embassies or behead people or call on God or bin Laden to exterminate my foes. I still don't feel your rage. I don't feel threatened by a sophomoric cartoon, even one as tasteless as that one.

At first I sympathized with your anger at the Danish cartoons because it's impolite to trample on other people's religious symbols. But as the rage spread and the issue grew more cosmic, many of us in the West were reminded of how vast the chasm is between you and us. There was more talk than ever about a clash of civilizations. We don't just have different ideas; we have a different relationship to ideas.

Posted by: Atari at February 9, 2006 10:55 AM

Think any of that Mav's energy made it inside the Bay, way inside the Bay?
The surfing-wave-physics-guru types will tell you that the bay gets shallow real quick and that all that energy gets attenuated by the bottom.
Yeah, everyone knows about the Fort and there are stories about Angel Island and the Rock, but how about further in?
You never know till you go...
And on the day the pros were riding giants at Mav's you might have seen a mere mortal riding some midgets somewhere in the Bay.

Posted by: Sander at February 9, 2006 11:00 AM

pretty cool free music site
http://www.pandora.com/

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 11:06 AM

nice write up E, I agree with that approach, but sometimes if you rip it up you get stinkeye too.

Nice NYT letter, I agrre with him too.

Posted by: mexi at February 9, 2006 11:07 AM

Large winter swells out in the North Pacific when aimed correctly run in the straight of juan de fuca and break on Whidbey Island many many miles inside the straight. Fun break too.

Posted by: PNW at February 9, 2006 11:07 AM

Low expectations are key. Orient the mind towards simply having a paddle and getting wet.

On my honeymoon I paddled out at a very well-known Maui spot with a NW swell building. Having never surfed there before I was happy just to be in the insanely beautiful lineup. I had no expectations, just stoke.

Early in the session, none other than Barry Kanaiapuni (legendary BK!) paddled and sat next to me. I was positioned to the left of the pack and he was just inside of me.

As a pasty howlie I did not pretend to be anything other than a tourist. As we sat there I let BK know how stoked I was to be in the moment. Just then a macking swing set approached. The pack stopped frothing when they saw BK positioned.

He turned to me and with a quite "go bra" gave me a perfect wave.

Posted by: del at February 9, 2006 11:16 AM

Namers naminng Chrissy Field and The Embarcadero get owned.

Kdalle, I've experienced exactly what you described in your post. Some people just start to short-circuit when anybody they don't know or understand starts getting into the flow. It's easy to write on the blog and say "never let them steal your flow" but truth is, when they start playing that game you described, and it gets Machiavellian and aggro, the vibe just withers. I end up resenting those people big time, they do nothing but spread their hostility out over the water. It's an energy drain, pointless, and silly. SO, adding to e's opener today:
-Remove chip from shoulder, THEN paddle out.

Posted by: Dem at February 9, 2006 11:18 AM

Sander, I surfed Orcale shores with Larry Ellison, Peter Mel and Flea, on Tuesday afternoon. The low-tide and swell angle was perfect and the mud falts where all time. Larry was spewing all morning how good it would be and flew us from HMB airport to San Carlos Airport it took like 10 minutes. Traded waves until dusk. Larry likes the bonsai dank bud.

PNW KIX out a name. Been there and surfed that.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 9, 2006 11:20 AM

fuck david brooks. he's just the administration's yes-man in the media.

the whole thing is like asking a white guy if he thinks an African American should see an image as racist.

it’s a different culture, don't try and understand it by applying western logic. they hold things sacred that we don't - that's their prerogative - respect it.

Or be willing to get drafted to fight the war on terror.

Posted by: respect/disrespect at February 9, 2006 11:26 AM

I heard there were a coupla loggers on knee high waves at Ashby Field in Bezerkeley...

Posted by: blakestah at February 9, 2006 11:26 AM

I have respect for freedom of speech, and even have respect for the freedom of speech of those who hate me. That must be one of those things not held sacred by "some" Muslims.

Posted by: blakestah at February 9, 2006 11:27 AM

heh. I didn't mention any of the nooks or crannies though. besides, you know then that finding it good up here is a bit more of an effort and brain thrust than a 60 minute drive up and down the coast checking spots. never rule out the potential of deep inlets or straits. where did I see a pic NE Canada recently?

Posted by: PNW at February 9, 2006 11:29 AM

Ryan Farrell's defense on why he hit the logger first. "He mouthed off to me." It is easy to see how in some people's minds an expressional insult can be construed as an invitation to riot and burn buildings...I guess.

Posted by: blakestah at February 9, 2006 11:30 AM

oh please. those people aren't rioting because of a cartoon. its pent up anger because they have crappy lives and shitty futures because their leaders take all the oil money. To keep the scam going they use religion to keep the masses down and their pockets full. "Hey, don't get mad at us because your life sucks - Israel and the West are enemies of Islam! Did you see those fucking cartoons? Jihad!"

They probably think Christians are crazy because of the Laker riots.

Posted by: politics are lame at February 9, 2006 11:37 AM

Remember reading somewhere about various folks surfing berkeley marina when the time, swell and tide were working.

Hardly epic - but I am sure there are all sorts of little breaks inside the bay when the conditions are right....

Posted by: ankors at February 9, 2006 11:37 AM

saw guys getting barrelled inside the bay during the last swell. no lie. shhhhhhh.

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 11:39 AM

and not at the fort.

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 11:39 AM

Secret Spot of the day!

Posted by: Old Fart at February 9, 2006 11:48 AM

Yeah- If you surf long enough, you are bound to have a run in or 2- even with the best intentions. I had one of mine @ Haneleia Bay with a loc with a tat of a skull on his face, whoops. Large facial skull tatoos= non niceness.

I was in the wrong and burned him (although fully accidental), apologized profusely, but still got slapped. I let it go and didn't fight back as you never know what it'll escalate too, especially with angry peps like that with the 10 person local posse behind them, looking for any excuse for a beatdown. I still kept surfing though and didn't paddle in, caught some nice waves. The guy even later "gave" me a wave cause I think he felt bad about it, after the emotion had passed.

Surf Attack Vehicle

The World's ONLY Expedition Class AWD Motorhome

Posted by: artifact at February 9, 2006 11:48 AM

Finished an essay. Smoked a doob. Played a lil six string. Waitin' for the tide to drop, then go hit some head high, west cliff rights before class.
Life ain't bad, even though I got socked in the face yesterday (see last night's post for details). It isn't going to keep me out of the water for a second, thats for damn sure. In SC, I guess sometimes you've got to roll with the punches, literally. Stay stoked, this is the week we've all been waiting for...

Posted by: slugger at February 9, 2006 11:50 AM

i think the worst is when you've been out for a while in relatively uncrowded conditions getting all the waves you want and getting all cocky and then a local asshole or three come out and ruin it. that's hard because you got used to getting waves. and you know then that you should just paddle in and call it a day. but i find it really hard to leave the water when someone is acting like a jerk, because then it feels like they won.

good words e. always a pleasure.

sactomex's post made me glad i didn't go for it this morning. i am not interested in 20 second holddowns. maybe next year. i remember saying that at almost exactly this time last year.

Posted by: steamwand at February 9, 2006 11:54 AM

I'll discuss the Islam thing because I haen't been surfing lately--so nothing there to report, sadly.

I strongly dislike all religions. I'm not a hater, just can't understand why people hang on to primative myths. The problem I have with Islam is, like Christians, Muslims want the whole world to follow Islam. Could you imagine a couple hundered years from now, the US under Sharia Law? I am not talking about "ALL" Muslims. Just the ones that drive the system. Most Muslims are too busy taking care of their own lives to care.

Stupid and rude for the EU's to post those cartoons. But what a crazy recation.

Posted by: Dennis at February 9, 2006 12:00 PM

C. Rempe, Lane.
http://laderalongboards.com/galleries/Rempe/images/rempe6.jpg

Posted by: slugger at February 9, 2006 12:02 PM

Is that who hit you slugger?

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 12:07 PM

Dennis - I totally agree with you on the religion thing.

I honestly think that humans in general are egotistical and they cannot deal with the thought that this is it and that there is no nirvana after death.
Too much emphasis on the "heaven" goal after their lives instead of emphasizing the goal of actual life itself.

Posted by: religion = conflict at February 9, 2006 12:07 PM

did the guy who won the Mavericks contest even have a sponsor? if not, that is RAD that he won. i saw a photo of him on the winners stage with a shirt that just said "Africa" (yes, i know he is from south africa).

i guess he had a locally shaped board too. rad again!!

Posted by: judahpeak at February 9, 2006 12:07 PM

Dennis, you are going to hell if you don't accept jesus christ as your savior!

Posted by: blakestah at February 9, 2006 12:08 PM

AWD motorhome waste system:

The blackwater system is double macerated to 1/16"- particle and can be disposed of through a pressurized fifty foot hose or the exhaust system while driving.

Posted by: oh shit! at February 9, 2006 12:09 PM

respect/disrespect, if you are claiming that it is OK for them to burn/loot/kill due to religious cartoons, then you know nothing about Islam.
its bullshit to approve of violence because a religion is "different". using generic terms to back up your "logic" shows your lack of knowledge on the subject. "David Brooks is yes-man of the Administration" -another generic term (aka "copout").

Posted by: Atari at February 9, 2006 12:11 PM

That secret spot thrown a mean barrel. No lie.

Posted by: L at February 9, 2006 12:11 PM

L, can you prove that you arent lying?

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 12:14 PM

By the way - kdalle, who were the mavs regulars and how did you know their bud was not? Were they like "we all surf Mavs but chester here does not." just wondering.

Posted by: L at February 9, 2006 12:15 PM

crazy lady screams. How is that?

Posted by: L at February 9, 2006 12:15 PM

Dennis, you've gotta have faith.
just ask George Michael....

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 12:16 PM

anyone going to suddenly have a "Dr" appt to catch the negative tide this pm? I am debating to take off from the cube farm.

Posted by: bz880 at February 9, 2006 12:25 PM

man blakestah...a few months down "there" with
"those people" and we lost you. sad.
was it a tent meeting or did one of your
new southern neighbors charm you into going
to their mega-church?

the best way to fight this is to sit in your
local waffle house from 11a > noon every sunday.

Posted by: korewin at February 9, 2006 12:26 PM

Nice RV artifact.

Although in reality I'd prefer it to have been built it on a unimog chassis. Those things are insane - I've spent quite alot of time 4x4ing in the desert and various places - and there's nothing like seeing a unimog cresting a 150ft sand dune. Then setting up camp in the lap of lux.

That said I wouldn't turn my nose up at the Oshkosh tho...

But this does look mighty nice....



Posted by: ankors at February 9, 2006 12:27 PM

bz880...

i tend to follow the advice of one
david lee roth ...."CLASS DIS-MISSED!"

Posted by: korewin at February 9, 2006 12:27 PM

Coming to a Waffle House near you, Dennis, BSTAH and Korewin!

Posted by: needles at February 9, 2006 12:36 PM

needles, from the background, it looks like you took that photo on a street in the outer sunset today. hot!

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 12:38 PM

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 12:38 PM

SHIT - Which one scares you the most???

Posted by: needles at February 9, 2006 12:46 PM

Posted by: alice in chains fan at February 9, 2006 12:48 PM

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 12:49 PM

sarcasm is selectively filtered in cyberspace...

some of my neighbors would definitely say that, though...

lessee, 3 PM negative low, combined with strong offshores and 6-7 ft 12-14 sec swell from 300 deg...

class DIS MISSED at 1 PM.

Posted by: blakestah at February 9, 2006 12:49 PM

hey needles...

why the fatwah (er whatever) at waffle house?
i am a bit slow; help me out...

Posted by: korewin at February 9, 2006 12:50 PM

keep raping blakestah!

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 12:54 PM

Bstah-I have no problem with going to hell. I'd much rather hang out with you than those goody-two-shoes in heaven ;^ )

Posted by: Dennis at February 9, 2006 12:55 PM

kore, almost nothing is open before noon on sundays.

Except WalMart. All the sinners do their shopping then in the empty store.

Posted by: blakestah at February 9, 2006 12:59 PM

i mean fucking seriously theres perfect waves and weather and im stuck in an air conditioned office reading about surfing. i need a more authentic mellow lifestyle if im gonna keep this whole "surfing" thing going.

ive been totally into Anubis lately.

Posted by: bagel at February 9, 2006 12:59 PM

German optometrist commercial. Just go watch.

Posted by: gttim at February 9, 2006 01:02 PM

Atari,
its hard to go too deep posting on a blog while dogging the boss so I apologize for my "generic" and "copout" comments - i was just trying to be brief. (Although D. Brooks is, and always will be, a wanker!)

The problem I have is with the neocon philosophy, where it has gotten us and how pervasive it has become in the mindset of the American public. The philosophy places "our" value system over "their" value system thus justifying destruction/rape/pillage of "their" societies/countries/value-systems in our pursuit of selfish goals.

D. Brooks column is just a further extension of this. "Its okay with me, why isn't it okay with you?" which leads to "You must be a barbarian. Don't worry, we'll come over there and help you. Enlighten you to our ways, eliminate your army, privatize your oil industry etc."

And I apologize. In my book, besides surfing, politics is the most important thing.

Posted by: respect/disrespect at February 9, 2006 01:07 PM

I agree that there is plenty of reasons why Mid-East Muslims should be angry at the west. But it seems to me that if you believe someone to be disrectful to your god, you should find solice in the fact that that person is going to hell (but it often is in many religions). It can't be a value to burn, kill and destroy in the name of god. It turns into a he said she said thing that is the cause of many a middleschool fight.

Posted by: Mexi at February 9, 2006 01:16 PM

people are getting barrelled right now.

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 01:19 PM

I love fighting people for control at the wavewatch cam...

Posted by: blakestah at February 9, 2006 01:21 PM

Man, this whole Christian/Jew/Islam thing has really got me down...


At least there is this





And this






Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 01:24 PM

Regular footer got a nice left at wavewatch cam, hope he doesn't mind me watching him from thousands of miles away...

Posted by: blakestah at February 9, 2006 01:25 PM

i call bullshit on sacto's 20 second hold down...maybe it felt like 20 seconds but probably more like 8....

Posted by: toad at February 9, 2006 01:27 PM

holy cow that WW cam is very cool. Excellent quality and no lag to speak of...

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 01:31 PM

some nuglets this morning on the inner bars

Posted by: bbr at February 9, 2006 01:40 PM

Definately "felt" like 20, but I wasn't looking at my stopwatch toad

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 01:47 PM

i'm just saying...nothing personal

Posted by: toad at February 9, 2006 01:51 PM

MAINSTREAM MEDIA - FROM THE DAILY TELEGRAPH:
Surfer banned

February 09, 2006

THIS man - an alleged serial surf stalker - is banned from setting foot on any of Sydney's beaches.

John Vincent Dunne is accused of mounting a campaign of intimidation - smashing surfboards and muscling out others who dared to ride the waves at a popular Northern Beaches break.

Thirty-four-year-old Dunne faced Manly Local Court yesterday charged with 29 counts of assault, stalking and malicious damage.

He is accused of harrassing seven people - including an Anglican Minister and a council lifeguard - at North Narrabeen Beach following clashes in the surf. While police claim Dunne was riled by intruders at his home break, his alleged surf rage has cast him as the outsider.

As part of his "strict" bail conditions, Dunne, of Elanora Heights, signed an undertaking "not to go to any beaches". The surfer, known locally as "JD", must "not ... swim or enter the waters of any beaches".

Dunne must also not go within 50m of North Narrabeen Surf Club, according to court documents.

One alleged victim told The Daily Telegraph Dunne's fierce protection of the waves set a bad precedent for surfing's younger generation.

"I come from Maroubra, which is noted for its territorial ethos, but it is also a very open surfing community, and John Dunne has gone way beyond the boundaries of acceptable surfing etiquette," he said "One of the problems is we're living in a changing coastal community where the issue of crowds is not going to go away.

Posted by: traut at February 9, 2006 01:53 PM

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 01:55 PM

Roll in the hay anyone?

Posted by: jizzy at February 9, 2006 01:56 PM

Does Larry Ellison, however you spell his name the CEO of Oracle actually surf? He seems like a major asshole. That flight if your story is true, is most likely being paid by Oracle. What a dick!

Posted by: mofo at February 9, 2006 02:01 PM

L- Why do you even care. Because I recognize Wormhoudt, Ruffo, and Brummett. I've surfed with them before. There were a couple of others on guns I didn't recognize but we got to talking about how they work at Mavericks. I was sitting right next to the other guy, who I won't name, when he said to Brummett that he had never been to Mavericks. 'Kay.

BTW, Wormhoudt charged. One of the latest takeoffs I've ever seen at the Lane on a very large middle peak left. Airdropped it and stuck it.

Posted by: ldalle at February 9, 2006 02:03 PM

still saving up to buy the golden gate bridge from that guy you met mofo?

Posted by: wooden nickel at February 9, 2006 02:03 PM

Fun day shooting from the boat. Few more shots on the site.

Posted by: Bruce at February 9, 2006 02:09 PM

i'd like to peel her onion. holy crap. nice ass, sactomex!

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 02:11 PM

Nice work Bruce, perfect light.

Posted by: Mexi at February 9, 2006 02:13 PM

ya nice ones bruce. and sactomex.

Posted by: bagel at February 9, 2006 02:24 PM

Kdalle, I am simply wondering. I did not realize you were holding court and could not be spoken to or questioned. Perhaps that attitude is why you are so disliked except for here at niceness. 'Kay?

Other than that little exchange, I kinda like you because you are a neat guy.

Posted by: L at February 9, 2006 02:27 PM

And you surfed Sealrock, which is pretty hardcore!!

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 02:28 PM

Posted by: superGnar at February 9, 2006 02:35 PM

We started blazin', it was amazin', my lungs are black and shriveled up like a raisin.




Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 02:39 PM

good thread today , keep it up chaps!

now on to esoteric surf spots I swear yesterday at low tide I saw a series of perfect A frame lines in Tiburon!! The problem was it was a mere 6 inches but it still had me mind surfing. I have heard of a wave on A. Island and have always ponderded surfing a wave in my hometown of B town, thinking a particular combo of wind , tide and swell might produce something surfable.

Posted by: antman at February 9, 2006 02:40 PM

L, never challenge Kdalle's manhood again. Never. 'kay?

hey, Kdolley, nobody cares who you know or who you saw in the water. dropping names like anybody gives a turd. high school.

Sactomex, help calm me down, post some more pics of onions!

Posted by: tt at February 9, 2006 02:42 PM

im outta here

Posted by: the neighborhood at February 9, 2006 02:47 PM

Recipe calls for one medium yellow onion



Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 02:48 PM

Hey bagel, nice pic of your dog!

Beautiful day. If only the sandbars weren't so farkolated.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at February 9, 2006 02:52 PM

And down goes the vibe meter.

You're harshing my Joy, Dude.

Stop.

Sactomex laying down the Pharcyde Groove.

Fun, mellow waves today.

Yesterday - 40 minutes, today less than 10.

Caaaarooooowwwwwwddddeeddd!!!!!!

Loud crew of homies on the best peak.

Long ass rides.

Some fun long ass ones that I got onto by myself.

Doof was on it too!

Posted by: friend #1 at February 9, 2006 02:54 PM

i hate you friend #1. go back to the beach! i am quitting my job.

Posted by: steamwand at February 9, 2006 02:57 PM

Hey, Larry Ellison rips like a mofo, mofo. You think he's really into yacht racing? Dude, we sail the seas high and score empty reef passes. Stocking the boat now for a south pacific sojourn come spring.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 9, 2006 03:03 PM

Good: Long lunch pays off.

Bad: Now I have to work late.

Ugly: Leaving good surf

Posted by: Mr Doof at February 9, 2006 03:08 PM

Onions! I love it!!!
Onion salad, anyone??

Posted by: KCLB at February 9, 2006 03:17 PM

friend #1 you are so right. Think I'll take a break.

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 03:22 PM

3 day weekend committed to nook and cranny quality time.

Posted by: for a few dollars more at February 9, 2006 03:27 PM

I had to say it twice

Long-ass rides.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 9, 2006 03:37 PM

Make that thrice.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 9, 2006 03:37 PM

friend #1 - you are officially a kook

congratulations and well done

Posted by: King kook at February 9, 2006 03:53 PM

check this guy out. flying around the world solo right now, and then a little farther


Posted by: Atari at February 9, 2006 03:54 PM

i gotta get me some of that

Posted by: sic at February 9, 2006 03:54 PM

I was out with you at Getchell's yesterday, Slugger. There were 5-10 guys already out when I got in the water at 3pm.

I played it low key and hoped people would get in line for the waves, but a 45 minute lull made people get antsy. This one guy was always paddling around inside people and snaking waves at the last moment and a couple of vets commented on it but noted that they wanted to keep things low-key so they didn't call him on it.

Me, I was just too damn polite/wimpy to challenge people for the waves and as a result I only caught a couple. I saw one of my older acquaintences, a regular, get snaked by some dude, but my bud said f*ck that and took off behind him anyway. The snake blew his first top turn and my bud got a nice wave to himself. I asked him about it later and he said "There's just too many people out here and I am just too old to not get aggro to try and get waves." As I watched him for the rest of the session I marvelled at how he consistently got waves and did not yell or get yelled at, while I got one more wave while not getting yelled at.

Posted by: steve at February 9, 2006 03:57 PM

My older siblings went to sunday school with that guy, Fosset.

His Pop interviewed me for MIT, as an alumnus.

I didn't get in.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 9, 2006 04:00 PM

Oh yeah, my last attempt at catching a wave back to shore resulted in a late takeoff followed by massive wipeout in a boil. When I popped up one of my fins was broken off, but luckily my Coffey board was glassed well and the Futures system did its job. Big smile on my face when I realized that I only need to purchase a new fin.

Posted by: steve at February 9, 2006 04:02 PM

Getchell's/Mitchel's used to be my favorite wave in SC. I would surf it all the time - and it was generally a mellow vibe. Then something happened like around 1998 or 1999, and all of a sudden it started getting polluted with bad attitude and bald heads. A real shame. Now that I don't live in SC anymore, I only really surf it a couple of times a year. The last time, it was really really good, and so of course, vibes were running pretty hot. Didn't get yelled at, but witnessed plenty of it - heard someone yell - "Get the f**k off the Westside f****t!!" to some older guy on a long board. Totally uncalled for, the victim was totally mellow.

Really bummed me out to hear that. I stayed off the main outside point, and just kept pickin' up the inside bowls - which was better anyway cause you are guaranteed to get into the fast hollow sections that peel off in front of the cliff.

Anyway, the Getchell's naming got me reminiscin'

Back to work.

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 04:12 PM

SLOAT SUCKS RIGHT NOW!! THE BARS ARE RUINED!!!

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 04:15 PM

sactomex is

Posted by: the new MSG, name,claim, inflame, UR so lame at February 9, 2006 04:15 PM

Sactomex owns the onion farm though. Harvest some more!

Posted by: Atari at February 9, 2006 04:16 PM

im going to mexico on sunday and gonna surf Troncones

Posted by: Brian at February 9, 2006 04:25 PM

Two car windows broken on GH near Sloat last night. One old blue van and another car that looks like it hadn't been moved in awhile. Big fast waves are being ridden by charging chargers right now. I was driving down the GH and a surfer passed me on a 12 foot face. Fo'real.

Posted by: Dennis at February 9, 2006 04:28 PM

Just picked up some discount tix to the Game tomorrow night at 3bellsbc Park.

See you there Limevoodoo et al.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 9, 2006 04:28 PM

Life is great but it can be frustrating and depressing too. I give thanks for the gifts bestowed on me but can't help but to feel trapped and unhappy a lot of the time lately. I lack self confidence.

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 04:47 PM

Cool. Got 4 tix myself so my kid can bring a pal........

Posted by: limevoodoo at February 9, 2006 04:48 PM

Posted by: let's hear it for KDALLE! at February 9, 2006 04:49 PM

i don't know why people are dissing on Kdalle. the guy friggin charges. he's real chill in the lineup and on land. He's been surfing for longer than most of us have been alive. Talk about authentic surfing lifestyle. The guy is for real. All the nay-sayers better recognize.

ha!

but.. seriously.. kdalle is the man.

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 04:54 PM

to all you whining about the vibes at SC spots, you need to realize these spots are at full capacity. you need to find somewhere else to go.

try gaining some skills to surf some of the lesser surfed but still kinda gnarly breaks.

also you need to realize that your surfing style & skills may not be the best match for the wave. if you're into riding as far away from the curl as possible a tubing wave might not be your best bet and people with skills to surf that wave may call you on it.

ride a skateboard in one of the bay area skateparks for a while. best way to learn to surf.

Posted by: meat at February 9, 2006 05:00 PM

F*ck off meathead. When I paddled out the spot was not as full as when I paddled in. Why don't you go learn how to service yourself instead of spouting claimer BS on the internet.

Posted by: steve at February 9, 2006 05:05 PM

surfed getchell's/mitchells one time on banner day. only got three waves. One wave i was in the pocket and some dude started to take off in front of me. the wave was pretty big and narrelly and i shit you not he looked back at me, realized i was there, tried to pull back and not go but got pitched over the falls right over top of me. I basically got barrelled by some dude. I shit you not.

ha!

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 05:06 PM

sorry if i come across like your boss at dotcomtech.com, but I used to surf the westside in my hay-day. they are perfect waves, but being goofy foot and into pipeline porn, i found the beachbreaks much more to my liking/style. i've never been harrassed in my surfing life, maybe because i'm a little disturbed, or maybe i shred. who knows. the point is if you're getting called out, something's wrong.

Posted by: meat at February 9, 2006 05:07 PM

gotta respect the shredders. Especially if you're a non shredder (like me!)

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 05:13 PM

e, shit us not

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 05:13 PM

i've had that happen to me e so if there are any doubters of your story at least i believe you. mine was here at the beach.

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 05:16 PM

what seperates those who live or lived an Authentic Surfing Lifestyle vs. those don't and never will..... the ability to appreciate good surfing by anyone on any board. until you can free you mind of your pop surfing lifestyle you'll just be another sheep in the herd. baaaaabaaaa.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 9, 2006 05:19 PM

I'm so owned right now, I pay rent to be me
My favorite meat is beef jerkey

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 05:20 PM

http://www.sketchswap.com/

give a drawing get a drawing...

Posted by: bagel at February 9, 2006 05:23 PM

OK, meat, I see you're trying to tone it down so I going to work with you on this. I agree that most days it is better to hit the less crowded spots, even if the waves are junkier or conditions gnarlier. But, if you know your limits, then on the big-ass days when the conditions are not super clean you go somewhere you can handle.

As always, have some situational awareness and nobody will get hurt/called out, unless of course the other guys kooks out and slams on you in the tube.

Posted by: steve at February 9, 2006 05:23 PM

best left on the west coast

/\
||
/\
||
/\
||

cheap housing costs. depressing place.

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 05:24 PM

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 05:24 PM

Your comment submission failed for the following reasons:
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OK, meat, I see you're trying to tone it down so I going to work with you on this. I agree that most days it is better to hit the less crowded spots, even if the waves are junkier or conditions gnarlier. But, if you know your limits, then on the big-ass days when the conditions are not super clean you go somewhere you can handle.

As always, have some situational awareness and nobody will get hurt/called out, unless of course the other guys kooks out and slams on you in the tube.

Posted by: steve at February 9, 2006 05:26 PM

Sorry for the double post. Looks like e has implemented a mandatory cool-down period between posts.

Posted by: steve at February 9, 2006 05:27 PM

Rape of a once and proud art form...

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 05:27 PM

thing about g*********Thles is you just hop in the lineup off the knob. anyone can "paddle out". another thing with age is that you kind of start enjoying the endurance/oceanography thing too. nothing like jumping into a rip and getting "sucked out" into the lineup.

Posted by: meat at February 9, 2006 05:28 PM

Never been harrassed in my surfing life either - I am neither disturbed or shreddy . . . but I've witnessed it a bunch - and I'd say only one out of 10 times the guy had it coming. Usually the offender is just being a dickhead.

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 05:30 PM

I love it when I'm "sucked out"

Posted by: jizzy at February 9, 2006 05:34 PM

seriously. i poop you not!

yo!

computers!!! argghgh!!!

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 05:45 PM

If you're writing - in any form, like I am, for or against niceness; doesn't matter. Simple exchange of ideas about surfing or crowds or spots or posting pics of the beach then you are a detriment to what was once a soulful experiance now ruined by the marauding hordes. I am guilty of an ego driven nature. Those of you choosing this as a forum in which to claim are the biggest losers of all time; like I used to be...

...never were they brave enough to name themselves or to show their faces...

Posted by: Dickey Mora at February 9, 2006 05:46 PM

but seriously. Frank Zappa is the man! thanks for all the music Frank!!!!!! Inspiring me every time i listen.

thanks god for music.

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 05:47 PM

wristwatch!!

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 05:51 PM

white onion



Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 05:55 PM

bob, what about painting about surfing? is that not "exchanging ideas about surfing?" Don't you promote surf-related painting? I don't get it??

why are you so bitter and mad? You seem to have fun when you're surfing.

Posted by: e at February 9, 2006 05:55 PM

Dickey,

I'm 30 years old, and have been surfing for 20 of them. They're have been marauding hordes since I first stood up at Cowell's.

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 05:57 PM

Dave Blake, aka blakestah

Posted by: namers get outed at February 9, 2006 06:00 PM

boy what an evening. Some great waves out there. All lots full. Women in string bikinis, people playing reggae, warm, offshore and beautiful evening. Perrfect.

Posted by: ankors at February 9, 2006 06:01 PM

Fuckin' shit. Still at work, and only the fading memory of my morning pounding to remind me of my favorite beach. Maybe tomorrow morning I'll catch some of those string bikinis - not likely..too early.

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 06:03 PM

i'm on it in the morning, OnionSacto!!

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 06:07 PM

What happened to vague is vogue? I like this site but I feel the last discussion about two certain SC reefs will do nothing more than make them more crowded. Certain spots, although plainly visible, hold a certain mystique that serves as a deterrent to new-comers (trannies) and keeps them uncrowded for the local population. SC has been overrun by surfers and I can sometimes understand the real local's frustration over this and believe that certain spots should remain uncrowded. I think the discussion similar to the preceding accelerate the crowding of these spots and increase these violent confrontations. With everyone's story about being mellow and low-key at these NAMED spots and catching killer waves by staying on the inside, the mystique is lost and the floodgates open. This is a shame - those spots can't support more surfers then there are now.

There is a big difference between a small reef break that only breaks on big swells and low tides and the 3+ mile expanse of sand west of this glorious city.

Maybe I'm just way off but I like the vague is vogue policy - even for local breaks.

Posted by: a little bummed at February 9, 2006 06:12 PM

In a thong I hope!

Posted by: sactomex at February 9, 2006 06:12 PM

bocas bike

cat wake

catalina

diablo rojo

Posted by: g at February 9, 2006 06:22 PM

I also surfed at the aforementioned sc setup yesterday, and was thinking that it was somewhat mellow despite several "rippers" in the lineup. I got some waves, didn't drop in, or get dropped in on and generally enjoyed myself. I got better waves somewhere else today...at another not so secret spot. I'll concede that the westside is overrun and can be a little heavy..both waves and vibe, but be mellow and you can even get a few at more protected spots. I've had shit thrown at me for walking to a spot, and surfed that same place without hassle. It is all in your vibe and skill level, be respectful and make your waves.

Posted by: i got 2 pennies at February 9, 2006 06:35 PM

has anyone used the electric ear dryer?? Looks like it might be what I need to keep the ears clean and dry.

http://dryear.net/index.html

Posted by: sd rider at February 9, 2006 07:45 PM

have you tried plain old rubbing alcohol? works great.

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 08:00 PM

There are supposed to be two little dots over the u in my name but I can't figure out how to do it on this damned keyboard. I like to claim here, I've done it under many forgettable noms de nicesness (anybody remember "nectar of ambrosia"?), but now I agree with Mr. Mora. Its time we all out ourselves (not to imply that we're gay or anything), post our pictures and get to know each other for real. My name is Heinrich Fluck, I ride a baby blue surftech Bob McTavish "Original" longboard. I learned to surf about 4 years ago when the software company that brought me here from Munchen (damn keyboard) went under, and I had plenty of time on my hands. Lucky for me I got a green card when I married my beautiful wife Chandler. I'm thirty-four, wear glasses, like the beer at Park Chalet and I'm "stoked" to meet more surf "brahs".

Posted by: fluck at February 9, 2006 08:20 PM

BVB- time to detox

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 08:24 PM

bagel, thanks for the sketch url. i had to use my trackpad here at home but it was fun anyway.

Posted by: betho at February 9, 2006 08:29 PM

bacteria loves heat...

Posted by: g-money at February 9, 2006 08:29 PM

Why is bad vibe the wrong one?

showed his face, stated his opinion. lot's of people have died for free speech.

bvb bad

rapestah and claimerdalle good?

i don't get it.

vague is vogue is a compromise. a weak position. but i understand it. yet even 3-5 is attacked and he is a fence rider.

3-5 needs to step it up and the rest of you fucking pussies need to be warned. fists in face and fins knocekd out of boards.

the first time you are out of line at the points OR THE BEACH

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 08:41 PM

I prefer the red onion.

Posted by: Wig at February 9, 2006 08:42 PM

you wanna fight? well i'll kick your ass you waste of scum. yeah, man, you are a total clown, and your ass is dust next time i see you.


hey, this is fun!

Posted by: kloo at February 9, 2006 09:01 PM

tt is such a faggot, he can't even challenge his own manhood. get a clue.

Posted by: vaseline is also for your dick, not just your asshole at February 9, 2006 10:16 PM

that steamers greeness is pretty sweet. i'd surf it despite it's mushiness through there.fast without a barrel but a great setup to bring it in for a sick roundie.

Posted by: at February 9, 2006 10:19 PM

Surfers ear: It's way past my bedtime out here but the dang corn flies keep flying in the zapper and keeping us up. Thumbing through some old surf medicine journals and this little tip will work wonders, you can find Draino anywhere, just 3 to 5 drops on each side should attenuate most bony growths.


Posted by: Bakestah at February 9, 2006 10:34 PM

NERD!

Posted by: couldn't resist at February 9, 2006 10:54 PM

e, nice, i took notes on that one. thx.

Posted by: bird at February 9, 2006 11:41 PM


strange, i was looking around that east coast surfer site altsurfing.org where you foun blakestah photo and found kdalle aka Jeff Kaplan:

Posted by: brent at February 10, 2006 07:16 AM

It's going to get ugly before it gets any better, people!!!

Posted by: needles at February 10, 2006 07:58 AM

I'm not exactly anonymous, folks. I post using my real name and have met most of the regular posters here in real life. And, well, I usually wear a tie at work. Mainly to fool the peeps that don't know the real me.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2006 08:11 AM

where do you work, for Orville Redenbacher, or See's candystore?

Posted by: mulatostah at February 10, 2006 08:54 AM

my spread in playboy should hit newsstands soon.

Posted by: jenn stergstah at February 10, 2006 08:59 AM

Congrats on your new job DB. I guess you can drive to NC for surf, eh?

Posted by: steve at February 10, 2006 09:02 AM

looks like you work for KFC

Posted by: at February 10, 2006 09:03 AM

faux neurologist lifestyle

Posted by: at February 10, 2006 09:05 AM

The dude's got a Ph.D. and is a neuroscience researcher. I'd say he's a good role model for all the young surfers out in blog land.

Posted by: steve at February 10, 2006 09:07 AM

so then, between BVB, Brian, Skip or Blakestah, do you think Blakestah is the best person to pattern my life after?

Posted by: impressionablestah at February 10, 2006 09:15 AM

B-stah, you stll racing mtb?

Posted by: jr at February 10, 2006 09:32 AM

I stopped racing about 2 years after moving to SF. I'm not sure if I will start up again here or not, I don't have a lot of free time these days...setting up at work and being a parent with a couple kids doesn't leave a lot of training time.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2006 09:39 AM

i know lots of racers w/ the same overachieving life as you. go for it.

Posted by: jr at February 10, 2006 09:42 AM

B-stah- what would you say the grade is for manor st. in pacifica? i think that is the worst climb in the bay.

Posted by: jr at February 10, 2006 09:52 AM

Racing male turd burglers requires long hours of dedicated training at very well lit facilities. Out here renting time on a well maintained turd burgler track costs 3 times what it cost to rent a lane in Daly City, and they don't have the organic feed to keep the little buggers healthy and disease-free.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2006 09:55 AM

Its not that steep. We used to do training rides in downtown SF around Lombard...did Divisadero from Lombard to Broadway 10 times once on a bet...61 minutes...

There are a LOT of big steep climbs in the Bay Area. A few pretty well-known ones west of Palo Alto.

I know I can start racing again, it will take a little while to get form back and it is not a high priority.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2006 10:01 AM

apparently, impressive credentials don't preclude one from using poor judgement when drawing parallels between a personal affront and one culture's reaction to expressional insults.

Posted by: Ogre at February 10, 2006 10:02 AM

you're the jobst brandt of surfing?

Posted by: jr at February 10, 2006 10:06 AM

That's a pretty high complement...Sure Jobst would get a laugh from it...he and I used to correspond irregularly.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2006 10:08 AM

you don't find it creepy that complete strangers know alot of shit about you?

Posted by: jr at February 10, 2006 10:13 AM

yikes, even Warshaw has a little bit of humility.

Posted by: at February 10, 2006 10:13 AM

you don't find it creepy that complete strangers know alot of shit about you?

Posted by: jr at February 10, 2006 10:14 AM

creepy? It's been my life's work.

Posted by: know-it-allstah at February 10, 2006 10:18 AM

how's the beach lookin?

Posted by: at February 10, 2006 10:20 AM

beach is lookin ok. howzit over there?

Posted by: brent at February 10, 2006 10:22 AM

That depends on the kinds of things people know...stuff that is out there on the internet is pretty much accessible to anyone who wants to dig enough...you could find out a lot about the regulars here by reading a few years of their posts, all of which are online.

Posted by: at February 10, 2006 10:24 AM

Posted by: whiterussian at February 10, 2006 10:25 AM

Posted by: shivaskunk at February 10, 2006 10:27 AM
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