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a few waves

got up early and drove.
darkness for a while, then a bright, resplendent sunrise.
Eventually arrived at a little spot with nobody around.
Not perfect but not horrible.
Chilly.
Sat for a while deliberating.
Finally another surfer pulled up.. but.. nope.. dog walker.
I suited up and paddled out
A bit wild and untamed out there.
A little scary so i played it conservative.
Locked into a good one within the first 5 minutes.
Ended up being my best ride.
Steep take off.
Race down the line.
Steer around a crashing section.
Up and punch into the lip.
Stand and trim for a few seconds.
Surrrf.
Caught a few short ones quickly after.
Good rhythm.
Then i took a set on the head.
Cold! powerful.
Sucked me in and I had to paddle for a while to re-position.
Then biffed a take-off and went over the falls.
Did it again on a warbly one soon after.
I fucking suck.
Then sat for 20 minutes trying to get my last ride.
Two other surfers paddled out.
Each immediatly caught a good one while i frustratingly tried to nab one more.
Couldn't do it.
But... finally.. after probably 30 minutes.. found a little pipsqueak wedge to ride in on.
hands and feet still frozen.
Nice to just be out in the ocean.

Moonie photos

mangyna photo

some lame-wad scrub kook tranny
niceness

last post.

Oh shit.

Posted by: friend #1 at January 20, 2006 10:44 AM

Authentic First Post Lifestyle

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 10:44 AM

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 10:45 AM

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 10:48 AM

sick

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 11:17 AM

wow e....

number four, please.


i remembered one last jane's show on the
way home. charlottesville, va 1991. the entire
richmond scene (G.W.A.R) packed into some satellite
gym on uva's campus....was on the floor for the
g/a show and the band came on...my friends and i
all moved 50 ft forward and to the left.

our feet never touched the ground.

Posted by: korewin at January 20, 2006 11:17 AM

Thundering sets stacked around the point. Rock and Roll.

Posted by: PNW at January 20, 2006 11:19 AM

Anyone ever surfed Moorea?

Posted by: g at January 20, 2006 11:20 AM

Unless I am mistaken, I used to crab out of the channel shown in the “mangyna” (ouch, what an obnoxious moniker) photo…the boat was 50 feet, a pretty good size boat, and had footprints on the ceiling. A huge set came through a few years before I was on the boat, and caught them trying to squeak out over the bar…rolled the boat over and put the guys walking on the ceiling of the wheelhouse….by some miracle the boat came back up…everyone basically OK. On big sketchy days when we were going out crabbing I would always look at those footprints and ask for just one more day….makes this keyboard look pretty fucking good on this cold January day.

Posted by: web at January 20, 2006 11:20 AM

Sweet

Posted by: sic at January 20, 2006 11:29 AM

I wonder what the guy surfing in the "mangyna" photo is going to do next...

Posted by: KG at January 20, 2006 11:29 AM

kick out

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 11:43 AM

go straight. the other guy in the photo has the deer in the headlights thing going. good one on e for surfing. im still on strike till i see good waves in front of my house.

Posted by: bagel at January 20, 2006 11:46 AM

Korewin, cool, I was there too! the place did 'light-up' when JA came on. We went over there from James Madison U

Posted by: gb at January 20, 2006 11:47 AM

nice gb.

drove up from raleigh, nc.
the music scene in those days in the southeast
was UNREAL!

Posted by: korewin at January 20, 2006 11:52 AM

Posted by: sic at January 20, 2006 11:54 AM

check out this craiglist ad (in the musicians section)
'POT TO PISS IN' ====NEEDS A LEAD GUITARIST

We are the hardest fucking band you'll ever hear... Slayer is for fucking grandmas... Death Angel... in our sleep...
Metallica... for us to poop on

we eat raw deer and piss fire... you'd better be able to fuck the devil right out of your guitar or dont fucking waste our time... fuck you...

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 11:54 AM

3-to-5-7, that Clash show in SC must've been awesome. Closest I ever got was seeing Built to Spill do a few well-crafted/loving Clash covers.

I have no incredible moshpit/super-wasted concert experiences. Well there was this one time [but I'm at work where the Eye of Sauron is ever-focused on my ass so the keystrokes are fully in check, Yo.... ;^) ] Back to the salt mine....

Posted by: Dem at January 20, 2006 11:56 AM

E - Amazing how frustrating surfing can be even after years. I sympathise.

Posted by: Dennis at January 20, 2006 12:08 PM

Hooray for train travel!

I think you can see that break from the Pacific Surfliner.
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/rail/amcalroutes/rtes.htm

Coaster is fun too...
http://www.gonctd.com/coaster/coaster.html

(Changed my name on here since someone started using mine.)

Posted by: Nate_SLO at January 20, 2006 12:16 PM

Listening to Jane's Addiction "Kettle Whistle" live album right now. It's pretty awesome. Never saw them live.

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 12:22 PM

is OB going to clean-up damnit! I'm about to blow my boss off and go home but it all might be for not!

Posted by: rob machado at January 20, 2006 12:24 PM

it was surfable this morning at OB.

Posted by: e at January 20, 2006 12:27 PM

Posted by: sic at January 20, 2006 12:28 PM

you said it, korewin. many good bands playing bars & places like that gym (saw INXS & George Clinton there too).

ever see this guy http://www.gibbdroll.com/index2.htm
he had a Jimi/Stevie Ray style
thought he put on some good shows

Posted by: gb at January 20, 2006 12:35 PM

Surfable without a board maybe.

I watched from the Zoo on the way into work.

The only ones out were Judith and another bodysurfer. One guy on a board was almost out, and two guys with fat guns were on their way back having been denied entry.

-On the Clash tip,

The guy who passed on the Social D/TSOL pit, name of Dan the Bull, anyhow, he went to see the Clash open for the Who, and our friend Phil pissed on a couple of girls waiting in line to get in. He was really just pissing, and splashed a couple girls also waiting in line. Dan put his best foot forward explaining how it was really no big deal to be pissed on, and how they should not make a big deal about it.

Charasmatic guy that he was, they didn't get too bent about it, or at least did not stop those guys from getting in to the show.

Dan Ballestreri, Peace maker.

Posted by: friend #1 at January 20, 2006 01:19 PM

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 01:24 PM

Ripping local look back at your heels fallback!
Moorea is off limits for mainlanders that talk shit about island locals.

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 01:36 PM

im calling not nice on that one

Posted by: bagel at January 20, 2006 01:39 PM

I saw 4 guys paddle out at the southside of the beach. 2 made it out. I also saw a guy and a girl on a twin fin try to make it out. Neither appeared to be in OB shape. I thought to myself if they make it out, then I am an absolute pussy! However, neither made it out. And I am still a pussy....

Posted by: mofo at January 20, 2006 01:40 PM

not nice on what bagel? I don't get the post above yours.

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 01:44 PM

just didnt seem like a nice post thats all, the one under the picture. not that thats good or bad really, i just thought everyone would want to know my oppinion on the matter.

Posted by: bagel at January 20, 2006 01:52 PM

OB is gonna clean up....In March!

Surf is fair at other locations right now. Not good, just fair. But, it is sunny out right now.

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2006 02:09 PM

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 02:30 PM

skated p-town this am. ragnar spraying some grinds. same as it ever was. the flow bro continuim.
nice gaff for a self described scrub wad tranny kook e.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 20, 2006 02:32 PM

Posted by: I Like What I See at January 20, 2006 02:35 PM

Posted by: Show Us Some More at January 20, 2006 02:48 PM

nice on the kaiser pic.
Bintang? Check.
Hot-tub? Check.
Indo waves all day? Check.
Hot Brazilian backpacker chick? Check.

It's in the bag.

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 02:49 PM

my yahoo radio station kicks ass!!

Posted by: rza at January 20, 2006 02:50 PM

ok those eyes are freaking me out

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 02:54 PM

freak out

Posted by: Le Chic at January 20, 2006 02:56 PM

this album is unbelievable! I've been so psyched on the Masada stuff lately. Zorn rules.

Check out this review:
For whatever reason, what Miles Davis accomplished with Bitches Brew - arguably the album that put fusion on the map - has never been matched and has rarely been emulated. Fusion and various forms of jazz-rock abound thanks to Miles and other pioneering artists, but the sounds and textures of Bitches Brew remain nearly unique - fusion artists took different directions and, for whatever reason, ended up sounding more directly derived from groups like Mahavishnu Orchestra than the free-form, spacious Bitches Brew-era Miles.
John Zorn's Electric Masada, here recorded at a gig in New York, is one of the few fusion groups that actually sounds a lot like Miles circa Bitches Brew. The group takes seven Masada compositions and turns them into raging, energetic beasts. "Idalah-abal", from Alef, here becomes a ferocious number with Marc Ribot's guitar jamming on an anchoring riff while Zorn flails away at his saxophone. "Hadasha" is the most Bitches Brew-like number, what with Ribot's wah-wah guitar, Zorn's more controlled blowing, and an open, spacious texture. The performances are inspired and inspiring; fitting for the occasion, part of Zorn's massive 50th birthday bash in New York.

Throughout it all, the percussion holds the group together and provides a consistently interesting and controlled backdrop to the sometimes chaotic improvisation (particularly by Zorn and electronics whiz Ikue Mori). With two drummers and a percussionist, the rhythms here are fascinating yet always groovy; for instance lending the last track, "Kisofim", a Latin shuffle kind of feel. With such a reliably interesting rhythm section, Zorn and his cohorts are free to jam into outer space. And jam they do.

If you enjoy fusion a la Bitches Brew - wide-open improvs anchored by a great groove and the occasionally rocking riff (and spiced up, once in a while, by an intensity that compares best to Naked City) - Electric Masada is one of the best things that's come along in the past decade. No exaggeration.

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 02:58 PM

Quality will increase through the day...

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2006 03:05 PM

Another one for Agnes...

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2006 03:07 PM

This one is for Korewin

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2006 03:08 PM

This one is for the Lot Lizard...

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2006 03:10 PM

This one is for ME....

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2006 03:11 PM

oh my goodly hoo hoo wha wha

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 03:12 PM

OOPS, shit. all over the keyboard


Posted by: KIX at January 20, 2006 03:14 PM

AND, she is for E....Good luck my man, looks like you're gonna need it!

Posted by: Kaiser at January 20, 2006 03:18 PM

yeah pot to piss in fucking is like wiping your butt with coarse gritt sandpaper. fucking abrasive gritty shit. they need a new guitar guy though. fucking ex was a pussy geriatric fucking tranny kook.,

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 03:21 PM

holy boobies!

Posted by: e at January 20, 2006 03:21 PM

Did e break up with his girlfriend or is it due to no chance of hooking up with that girl.

I love boobies!

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 03:30 PM

high tide beachbreak peak in the last light of indian summer dusk heavy with the scent of jasmine. Gregorian Chants.

Posted by: PNW at January 20, 2006 03:32 PM

i wish my boss was chouinard. looks ludicrously fun right now.

Posted by: steamwand at January 20, 2006 03:39 PM

where does it look fun?

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 03:55 PM

i think that e and lot lizard got the same girl.

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 04:06 PM

That's all you got Kaiser

weak!

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 04:13 PM

this album kicks major ass too.
Electric Masada - Mountain of Madness

Posted by: e at January 20, 2006 04:17 PM

sweet shot bruce!

Posted by: bagel at January 20, 2006 04:27 PM

Saw Hackey pull out his sacky while Sackey outloaded the yellow decked blue bottom retro twinzer quad with swizzler fins. Sackey followed Hackey but neither made it through the Minna.

Posted by: Bork at January 20, 2006 04:44 PM

clipow

Posted by: Brian at January 20, 2006 04:49 PM

Total Pro.

http://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/image/39572522

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 04:56 PM

ragnar style
http://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/image/55013416

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 05:06 PM

ragnar is my favorite local

Posted by: bagel at January 20, 2006 05:34 PM

besides you guys of course

Posted by: bagel at January 20, 2006 05:37 PM

favorite local? omg

Posted by: Otis at January 20, 2006 05:44 PM

thats right sucka

Posted by: bagel at January 20, 2006 05:51 PM

Any comments on the HydroEpic Surfboards? I'd be willing to pay the "twice the price" tag they have if they surf well and last long. I see that the air plug would need to be opened when not in the water to allow the pressure to equalize and keep the thing from delaming. I'm willing to do a little extra maintainance if it keeps my board from getting dinged every time I put it in the car.
Anyone ever ridden the 6'6" Brewer Minigun? If I got one it would be my everyday board so I'm not stoked on the gunny aspect of it but it's the best fit for me as far as I can see.
Anyone got one for sale or rent or just let me have a go on it?

Posted by: #3 at January 20, 2006 05:54 PM

Posted by: Otis at January 20, 2006 05:54 PM

please show me the best evaaaaar pic of the unnamed rock pile under the bridge in the city by the bay. Ideally one that does refutes my perception that it is nothing more than a grovel setup to a subpar cutback.

Posted by: its community theatre at January 20, 2006 06:00 PM

not that theres anything wrong with that

Posted by: apologist at January 20, 2006 06:02 PM

otis redding, who died at the young age of 36 in 1967, has recently risen from the ashes to haunt the niceness surf blog and sabotage local san francisco surfers like bvb and ragnar under the golden gate bridge. RIP (rip in peace).

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 06:13 PM

Yeah yeah. I've been reading this blog for awhile now ( who is "E?") and have resisited the urge to post plent of times. I am a local but I reside in Petaluma actually near Winona's family that still has a house here.
That "rockpile" you speak under the bridge is one of my favorite if only spots I surf until I landed shoulder first into said pile and I am out for six months and my shoulder will never be the same...
Show some respect for the place - sure its odd but whatever. Could be worse?

Posted by: Rocker 180 at January 20, 2006 06:15 PM


I don't think he was talking about the Richmond-San Rafael bridge padnuh but here's a pic of that wave a little south of there that requires the ability to decode this.

Mendocino
5:50
6:20
Mendocino
6:25
6:55
Del Norte
6:35
7:05
Del Norte
7:10
7:40
Mendocino
7:10
7:40
Mendocino
7:45
8:15
Del Norte
7:50
8:20
Del Norte
8:30
9:05
Mendocino
8:20
8:50
Mendocino
9:10
9:45
Del Norte
9:15
9:50
Del Norte
10:10
10:45
Mendocino
10:10
10:45
Mendocino
10:55
11:30
Del Norte
11:10
11:45
Del Norte
11:55
12:30
Mendocino
11:40
12:15
Mendocino
12:25
1:00
Del Norte
12:40
1:15
Del Norte
1:25
2:00
Mendocino
2:15
2:50
Mendocino
3:00
3:30
Del Norte
2:50
3:25
Del Norte
3:35
4:05
Mendocino
3:40
4:15
Mendocino
4:25
4:55
Del Norte
4:15
4:45
Del Norte
4:55
5:25

---
---

Spaulding
5:20
6:05
Mendocino
5:10
5:45
Mendocino
5:55
6:25
Del Norte
5:35
6:10
Del Norte
6:20
6:50
Mendocino
6:35
7:10
Mendocino
7:20
7:50
Del Norte
7:20
7:55
Del Norte
8:10
8:40
Mendocino
8:10
8:45
Mendocino
8:50
9:20
Del Norte
8:50
9:25
Del Norte
9:35
10:05
Bold = p.m. time

Posted by: Northbay No Tolls Local Boys at January 20, 2006 09:03 PM

HOLY TITS!!! AMEN AMEN AMEN

Posted by: at January 20, 2006 09:38 PM

Ah tooy am a local thaur an' Ah bide in Glasgow. Ben th' years i've earned th' distinction ay havin' bin sucked oot aroond th' point mair than anyain in th' spots history. i've also hud jumpers lain directly oan me seven different times. In addition aam th' only man tae hae bin violated by a sea lion bull thaur. Ah suppose aam jist lucky.

Posted by: Fat Mattstard at January 20, 2006 10:05 PM

I'm baked off my ass. Whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo SLAYER ooooooooooo whoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooodedededededdadadedededdadadadadadadaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaooodoaodaodaodaodoooooooodadad whaaaaaaaaaaaaaough. WWS

BLACK LABEL SCOEITY DUN DUNDA DUUUUOOO DAURKA.... DUCKDUCKDDURR DURFKA> DUNKCA DUBNAKD AMEER

Posted by: Brian at January 21, 2006 01:38 AM

a

Posted by: anon at January 21, 2006 10:23 AM

a

Posted by: anon at January 21, 2006 10:25 AM

a

Posted by: anon at January 21, 2006 10:26 AM

Ah-ha-ha-ha-ha-haaaaaaaaa....WIPEOUT!!


Posted by: Surfseeker7 at January 21, 2006 10:57 AM

Do you guys think the poo poo factor out there is high?

Posted by: at January 21, 2006 12:20 PM

i didn't see any poo out there today but definitely a few large puddles of what looked like foamy piss. it smelled bad. keep your mouth closed and cover any open wounds.

Posted by: vons at January 21, 2006 02:07 PM

Posted by: name get owned guy GETS TIRED at January 21, 2006 03:43 PM

the beach is mean.

Posted by: kloo at January 21, 2006 03:59 PM

do you know what the standards are?

Posted by: at January 21, 2006 07:18 PM

Previously unsurfed big wave finally conquered in Ireland. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,2091-2003994,00.html

Video trailer will eventually be posted here:
http://www.dreamcatcherproductions.ie/film1.html

Posted by: steve at January 21, 2006 09:09 PM

Image hosting by Photobucket Damned Blog Coma -- Overslept Again!

Posted by: Flamingo at January 22, 2006 08:06 AM

Django Reinhardt and the Hot Club of France on the Montparnasse. 8 drams of Laudanum, a half bottle of Absinthe and a chillum of Morrocan hashish and cheap Turkish tobacco with on off duty Rockette.

Posted by: Toulouse Aultrec at January 22, 2006 10:57 AM

A surfer died this morning near the Zoo. Does anyboday have any more info on Who and Why it happened? Pretty devistaing stuff in such a small surf comunity.

Posted by: at January 22, 2006 01:55 PM

There were people performing CPR for quite some time. People were trying to call for 911, but were having problems getting through. The paramedics did arrive and continued CPR for another 5 minutes or so.

I have no idea what happened or who it was. Very sad.

Posted by: at January 22, 2006 02:03 PM

I was out, heard some sirens, a few of them. Didn't hear anything about it when I got back to the beach.

But, there were some thumpers out there. Yesterday, some guy had his epoxy snapped into 2 expoxies. Clean break. Never seen that before.

Post some news if someone finds some.....

Posted by: Kaiser at January 22, 2006 03:34 PM

News: http://www.surfpulse.com/2006/news/unidentified_man_drowns_at_ocean_01221322.shtm\

Posted by: Kaiser at January 22, 2006 03:38 PM

http://www.cbs5.com/localwire/localfsnews/bcn/2006/01/22/n/HeadlineNews/SURFER-DIES/resources_bcn_html

more info on the fella the passed away today.

Posted by: at January 22, 2006 06:41 PM

and

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2006/01/23/SURFER.TMP


Posted by: kloo at January 22, 2006 06:42 PM

Would they be able to ID you and contact family or friends? I just ordered dog tags; I'll keep one with my keys in my wetsuit.

http://www.usdogtags.com/

Posted by: dog tags at January 22, 2006 08:02 PM

seriously, though, how does one die in 7 ft. O.B.??? even if it was double overhead, I don't get it.

Posted by: at January 23, 2006 12:43 AM

You dont get it because you have not surfed long enough. Anyone can go ay anytime in any size surf. Hundreads of ways. Remember that.

Posted by: You dont get it? at January 23, 2006 05:33 AM

Uh ooh, SFGate is so owned! They named! 20 "owned" pics in 5... 4... 3...

Posted by: at January 23, 2006 05:37 AM

Well anon, it could start with a late drop followed by getting nailed by the lip. Then in the mix of it, the board cracks the surfer in the head, knocking him out.

Or he could have been surfing the inside and did a head plant in shallow water. A few surfers have broken thier necks at OB from that. Could even have happened paddling out or in. I know a guy that had his front teeth knocked out on an insider:(

Posted by: Dennis at January 23, 2006 06:15 AM

Anytime you are out surfing you could die. People blackout without warning. If that happens when you are on a surfboard you die.

You could get struck by your board, in the head, violently, and be knocked out. I took a fin to my forehead once and saw stars, my forehead split open to the bone. Another time, duckdiving, the board rebounded into my nose and nearly knocked me cold.

You could get a stinger to your neck from going face first into the sand and lose control of your limbs. Then you drown while fully conscious.

You could be held under to long, or get the wind knocked out of you by the lip just before a two wave hold-down.

I still think given the number of people and hours of eeposure,
you are in more risk driving to go surfing than you are surfing, but accidents can and do happen.

The amazing thing to me isn't this guy...it is the guy that Pez saved....that is amazing. How many times have you been out surfing with someone and lost sight of them for hours...Pez isn't even with this guy and he spots and saves him. Amazing.

Posted by: blakestah at January 23, 2006 07:26 AM

Better not to ask why... I lost a friend who was an expert snowboarder. He was one of the top 10 on Vail mountain in 2001. In his case, it was a combination of a weak heart and a terrain trap that took his life. While I could speculate on all sorts of mistakes that he might have made that day, it is worthless to do so. I do care to think of him and live my life with the same joy that he had, serving God in every step. In times like these, it is good to reflect on who you serve...

Posted by: esj at January 23, 2006 07:36 AM

There was an asian woman picking up rocks and shells who walked literally right up to the body to pick this shit up while they are performing CPR. Just like there was nothing going on.

Then there were peoples dogs running all over the place very close to this guy. Some people need to learn to have a little respect.

Posted by: at January 23, 2006 07:43 AM

Good points B-stah. The challenge is to live in the balance of fear vs risk. Being willing to take a risk but not being totally paralized from the fear.

Posted by: esj at January 23, 2006 07:59 AM

Having not surfed in two weeks prior to Sat, I felt like I could have died - denied on initial paddle-out attempt, totally fatigued and misreading set waves. On Sun the inner bars were dredging with head-high sand spits - as you watched those inside you paddle out, although only 20 yards away, your elevation in the water was like 6' higher than theirs. Some serious potential energy being converted into kinetic energy in like 3' of water.

It doesn't surprise me. I hope he was just knocked unconscious and doesn't have kids. Keep an eye out for me and I’ll do the same.

Posted by: obro at January 23, 2006 08:11 AM
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