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Opportunities for the wave-hungry

After gorging all weekend on hefty chunks, this morning looked lacksluster and dismal.
However, compared to an average day in July this morning kills it.
It's all about perspective and expectation.
For years my personal surf stoke was fueled by the experience of growing up an east-coast surfer.
Compared to the often puny, weak, lake-like conditions of the East, the large, junky, crazy sauce of Nor Cal was a welcome change.
The water never gets freezing here.
You can pretty much find little sections even on the shittyest of days.
We're very very lucky to live and surf here.
But.. if you're thinking of moving here or surfing here.. of course you have to remember that the water is actually frigid (average 42 degrees), there are rabid pods of ferocious great white sharks that tend to chase surfers out of the water on a regular basis. The waves are always HUGE!! Minimum 800 duckdives to get out. The bloody-knuckled local crew are disgustingly inbred and violence-prone. Their favorite form of recreation is speed-balling meth and pcp and then rocking up to whatever surfspot is firing for some old-fashion fist-a-cuff brawling. Some call this crew the Brigade. They can spot an east-coast or LA tranny from a mile away and waste no time in yelling the obligatory, "Beat it ALIEN!" "Go back to Leo Carillo!"

The best bet for an aspiring surf-hound might be to go to Sharp Park everyday and tackle those supersuck anvils around the pier. If you can surf there, you can surf anywhere. no shit! If you can't make it past the powerful shorepound, just run out to the end of the pier and leap off.

But.. anyway.. thank you Huey for this past weekend! Thanks for that one right you tossed me.
Thick wave.
Steep drop.
Power cutback back to the pocket.
Gnarly, thundering section that raced and threatened.

---------------------------

Ian update:
Well hello everyone.

I'm sure all of you have been DYING to hear from me, and what I've been doing with my time. No? Well, I'll fill you in anyway. At the moment, I'm in Florence, Italy with Jon and Chris. We picked Chris up from Paris 2 weeks ago. Drank a lot of wine (it's about $2 a bottle), then went to Amsterdam. We didn't drink there, if you catch the drift. From there we went to Prague in the Czech Republic. It's amazingly cheap there. It's also part of "beer country." Prague is where the original Budweiser was invented, and yes, it's good. You can get a liter of beer for $0.75. I guess we drank a lot there too. Then, we took the train from Prague to Munich (again). This time was just as fun as the last. We took a bike tour of the city and saw some AMAZING things that we wouldn't have otherwise, including people surfing in the river. You can imagine how excited I got when I saw that. I even had my wetsuit with me, but unfortunately, we didn't have time to try it out, but I did get pict ures. We got to visit the (touristy) Haufbrau haus, which isn't as cool as some the other ones, but it's the biggest one. We stayed with our friend Martha and her family. As you can imagine, they took great care of us and treated us like Kings. Funny enough, Chris's last name is Koenig, which actually means king in German.. Go figure. After we headed to Venice. Kind of a tourist trap, expensive, but it is extremely beautiful. I don't even think we heard anyone speaking Italian there. Then off to Verona. We got to visit Juliette's balcony, and her tomb. Pretty rad. Now, we're in one of the most beautiful places in the world, Florence. Luckily Amy wrote us up a huge list of places to go, so we have a lot to do and see. It easy to fall in love with this place because the people are so genuinely friendly and willing to help. We made a new friend, an owner of a cafe, who within 15 minutes was giving us free coffee and pastries I (I think he liked Jon). So, that's just a quick, and short r ecap of what's been going on. I could go on for days about the idiotic stories we've created, but I'll save them for when I'm home. I hope everyone is doing great! I miss you all, and can't wait to see everyone!

Mahalo,
Ian

----------------------


fish fry

Posted by: Burnt Reynolds at November 7, 2005 09:50 AM

First one in the water, first one outside, and caught the first wave (as far as I could see where I was). :)

Mostly was an exercise surf.

Homemade board #1 rode well for last three days.

Oh Dave, I need to buy one of your single fin RFS set ups.

So, where and when do I meet ya to trade cash for RFS?

Posted by: Mr Doof at November 7, 2005 10:09 AM

Posted by: namers get owned at November 7, 2005 10:10 AM

Posted by: More of these for the kooks. at November 7, 2005 10:13 AM

Experienced a first early today: paddled out, spun around, stood on first mooshy wavelette , and realized there was 4 1/2 ' of a 9' longboard that I was about to mow over. Woah! Neighbor's board seized by sudden death. Neighbor bleeding from a cut but otherwise fine. R.I.P. lovely lb. Aww!

Nice to be back in the water after 3 week hiatus. Frustrating and abusive, but pretty great. Remember, surfing is fun.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 7, 2005 10:44 AM

Go Ian go! and hurra for santa cruz and surrounding areas!

Posted by: bagel at November 7, 2005 10:47 AM

Went out this morning. Saw the uber brazzo ripper for a little while, then I went to the outside and hung with a guy I've seen for many years, an acupuncturist who DPs a lot in the same spots as me. The outer bars were working. Not like full on working, but there was sand there and big reasonably clean drops and big faces and offshore winds. Good times. Yesterday though.....I pulled up and saw like surf heaven. Slightly overhead glassy peelers reeling down the line. Good times.

Posted by: blakestah at November 7, 2005 10:47 AM

For once, I am not annoyed by NGO. Last two days of surf help my receptivity.

Surfed with Judith both days, Doof yesterday, Good sized drops with a crowd but not an unmanageble one. Good attitude in the water. Hoots from old friends and strangers alike.

Long paddle from two clicks over to get to the goods. Saw Doof get a few long ones. Pulled the chicken switch on a few two many steep ones. Need to get in shape to boost the confidence.

November.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 7, 2005 10:48 AM

ps. left my wetsuit on a rock drying with booties nearby at a certain parking lot just south of ANo where kite surfers frequent..by slim chance did you grab it and want to see it returned to its rightful owner?

Posted by: bagel at November 7, 2005 11:00 AM

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 11:04 AM

kelly and andy both advance into round 4

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 11:11 AM

that announcer is a legend..forget his name though..

Posted by: bagel at November 7, 2005 11:19 AM

Some fun this morning around 9:30; kinda offshore, glassy, and some good inner-bar walls, while the Lone Oarsman prowled the outside. First wave was really hollow and sweet; then a random sampling of this and that until it was mainly dumpy close-outs. Dunno if it was the tide or the side-shores that wrecked it.

Posted by: kloo at November 7, 2005 11:28 AM

Hey, huey is also a fellow east coast tranny from nj, correct? I met him a few times. Good guy...

Posted by: mofo at November 7, 2005 11:49 AM

ha! nope.. huey is the god/spirit of the ocean.

Posted by: e at November 7, 2005 11:50 AM

missed yesterday but was very psyched with saturdays session. big and clean way outside, some nice sets coming through. i had about 2 blocks to myself for most of the time, just an occasional dolphin interloper. saw a lot more people coming out as i was on my way in but there was no doubt plenty of room out there. great day.

Posted by: vons at November 7, 2005 11:57 AM

I paddled for 45 minutes and did not make it out on saturday. I think I chose a bad spot to go out, and the sets were breaking on my head, one after another after another... I paddled consistently too and just lost energy after 30 minutes. Very humiliating....

I watched this guy on the south side of the beach kill it on his orange gun. He was able to get into the waves so early and decided to pull out so he could make the paddle back out. A lesson I need to learn. I just love the long rides and cannot help myself to keep riding it.

Posted by: mofo at November 7, 2005 12:18 PM

yesterday was really really fun right at dark. i went way up north with the chick on saturday, didn't surf but saw some big gnarly foggy waves:

Posted by: bbr at November 7, 2005 12:24 PM

Yesterday an all-timer from where I sat, nicely sheltered private spot. I snacked on the goods and witnessed some serious shit going down. Not real tough to make it outside, minimal current and makeable drops, sitting on my couch and watching TV all day rocks.

Posted by: cheeto priest at November 7, 2005 12:32 PM

Cheeto priest. Whatcha mean? Whats "serious shit", as in the good waves or a local ghetto beat down in the water?

I saw alot of people get denied at OB on saturday.

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 12:42 PM

bbr, you are supposed to go 'way down south' with your chick, not 'way up north', if you know what i mean....

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 12:49 PM

Posted by: get 'em Jonny! at November 7, 2005 12:58 PM

I love the way there is no shared reality in surfing in SF. Two guys, same time of day, same general vicinity, even the same spot, will have completely different takes on the conditions.

Saturday-First one out at my usual spot. Kinda fall-like, smooth, a little disorganized, kinda soft for the size. Still very fun. Occassional large set. Leg cramp set in after 2 1/2 hours. Ouch. Grade:B

Sunday-First out again at the usual spot. A taste smaller but more wintery. Offshores, cloudy, drizzle, waves much more organized and breaking harder. One genuine 2x wave came through. Leg cramp after 2 hours. Ouch again. Grade:B+

My .02---short boards are great for duck-diving but most guys can't catch waves once they're out. Get some length and have more fun.

Posted by: kdalle at November 7, 2005 01:07 PM

I think the best 2 consecutive weekend days this fall. even with the high tide almost all day. winds were pretty good all day both days. A miracle. So fun and so paddled out today. Stoke meter is back up for a lot of people.

Posted by: Walker at November 7, 2005 01:29 PM

agreed.. this weekend was rad. Saturday near the middle i found a few long, throaty bigger ones early.. then got denied for the last 45 minutes of the session as the wind came up and the conditions deteriorated. Saw that conditions had reappeared toward the end of the day. go figure.

yesterday.. steep drops, fast sections. walls. lips. the whole nine. wind started thrashing it toward 11 or so.

surf.

Posted by: e at November 7, 2005 01:32 PM

Someone (Bagel) did something (got really baked) after doing something else (surfing) at a good spot (**).

Hope you find your suit.

Kdalle, isn't is super tough to make it out on the bigger days with a huge board? That is what I don't understand.

Windswell down here that was fun but oh man was it crowded.

Posted by: Hb at November 7, 2005 01:36 PM

Posted by: namers get owned at November 7, 2005 01:36 PM

paddle was tough saturday i saw some denials, you had to pick your spot. i had a good channel on the way out and kept thinking it was too good to be true, waiting for the smackdown that always happens when i think i've had an easy paddle at ob. made it out pretty quickly and nice rides but sure enough i milked one ride too far in, had drifted far from the channel and got denied on the way back out for 20+ mins. belly rode in and walked back to the channel with tail between legs. luckily it was still there, best rides of the session came after 2nd paddle out.

Posted by: vons at November 7, 2005 01:57 PM

With a bigger board (that is still pointy) and years experience reading the beach, you can find the channels to get out. Longer board also makes it easier to paddle down to where its working.

Seriously, both days I paddled out with little worries (maybe 4 duck dives) and then paddled with the current to get to a peak a couple clicks down.

Doof did the same yesterday. Although we only had a click and a half to get to waves on Sunday. Saturday took 2 to 2.5 to get to anything worth paddling into.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 7, 2005 02:04 PM

Of course Doof was on his 6 10, and me on my 7 6.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 7, 2005 02:05 PM

In the future surfers will be able to ride sound waves.

Posted by: Burnt Reynolds at November 7, 2005 02:15 PM

I've been getting too baked lately...thinking too much about stuff I am trying to get my mind off...crazy how that happens

Posted by: Bill at November 7, 2005 02:23 PM

Burnt Reynolds, you have aliasing problems.

Posted by: blakestah at November 7, 2005 02:26 PM

choppy(GIF) not glassy(JPG)

Posted by: Burnt Reynolds at November 7, 2005 02:33 PM

Posted by: i love thick latinas at November 7, 2005 02:42 PM

I, too, had difficulty finding channels both days. Initially, had no problem getting out, but then things changed. I'd ride a wave and find myself on the inside break. Sometimes, I'd find a new channel--only to have a few juicy sets swallow it up, which meant many turtle rolls with the 7'8" which wasn't exactly fun with those big ones droppin' on my noggin'.

For my skill level though, I had some really fun, energizing waves that were pushing my abilities and giving me a new perspective on wave riding. The thing about OB is that you have to put yourself in a precarious position. I love seeing people go for the biggest, steepest wave--even if they don't make it. It takes balls. My buddy saw the whitewater and refused to go out past the breakers. Fact is, I love that feeling when you're in the wave and 2/3 of your board is hanging out in front of you as the pocket gets smaller and smaller and walls up. And you're wondering if this shit's for real.

Posted by: amigoism at November 7, 2005 02:45 PM

Isn't it funny when you have too much. I start seeing sharks, I start thinking that a dolphin is messing with me.

I like to smoke alot before heading out on mellow days. Big days, smoking too much is dangerous....

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 02:47 PM

i like to rip a few bong loads and then charge those charging chargeables. any size is fine. The ganja helps me to appreciate the activity of surfing. I get into a nice flow when stony surfing. no problems charging. bring it.

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 02:52 PM

Minor correction:

On Saturday and Sunday, I was riding the homemade 6'9".

The homemade 6'10" will be ready to ride tomorrow, provided there be waves.

Posted by: Mr Doof at November 7, 2005 03:01 PM

over the falls yesterday and landed on my rail, I have a bruise on my leg 8 inches wide and I can barely walk... bumming.

Posted by: Mexi at November 7, 2005 03:02 PM

Only positive effect of stoning on me is perhaps a greater desire to surf. Once I hit the water, the high disappears, and the only effect is a little more labor in my breathing.

After close to 20 years of smoking and surfing, I have learned to wait until after session unless the drive to the waves is more than an hour.

Why waste good weed?

Posted by: friend #1 at November 7, 2005 03:06 PM

Rehab/Blown Shoulder Dept.
Has anyone worked with Lance at the Potrero Physical Therapy? I saw an ad for their chop-shop and like the idea of seeing a Dr. who surfs.
New name for fall-One Less Guy in the Lineup/See you at Toronado...

Posted by: searoom at November 7, 2005 03:13 PM

bummer mexi.. get better fast.

ganja. yes please.

Posted by: e at November 7, 2005 03:16 PM

I want to let you all know about 4 great apartments I have on the market in the Central Richmond at 22nd and Balboa. They're perfect for surfers because of their location and because they have parking and a lot of storage for boards, etc.

They're nicely remodeled. There is one 1 bedroom and three 2 bedroom units. You can see photos & info at http://www.residentialsf.com. Prices are between $539K and $689K.

Posted by: Shaban at November 7, 2005 03:16 PM

Obviously the housing market has slowed if the seller has to pimp on a surfing blog. From an investment point of view, the two bedroom is really only worth about $420,000. Put down 20% and you roughly can break even on the rent collection. Of course the sale prices are not inline with rental prices in SF.

Posted by: Dennis at November 7, 2005 03:27 PM

I think they are calling it a cooling off period.

Posted by: who are they? at November 7, 2005 03:35 PM

Whats strange is that all my friends out here who surf do not smoke....

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 03:36 PM

Hey Dave B.,

I saw on your site that you are packing up on Nov 18th. Where are you headed to? Are you going to keep working on RFS improvements?

Posted by: steve at November 7, 2005 03:49 PM

Many things contributed to me leaving my suit on that rock, the reefer could have been one of them. the happy ending to the story was i was able to surf again that day as my girl left her extra small wetsuit in my car and i was able to squeeze my girlish figure inside of it, thats right ladys.

Posted by: bagel at November 7, 2005 04:05 PM

he said happy ending.

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 04:08 PM

FBSM massage with happy ending:$90
FBSM massage with full service:$300
FBSM massage with happy ending and new wetsuit:$375

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 04:09 PM

last post was me

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 7, 2005 04:10 PM

maybe it wasn't

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 7, 2005 04:12 PM

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 04:13 PM

ho shit, 3to5, hahaha, are you one of the RB bro's? If you know what i'm talking about... I love the RB site. The guys on there crack me up.

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 04:14 PM

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 04:18 PM

NORCAL SHARK ATTACK
Sonoma County surfer bitten at Salmon Creek

Twenty-year old Sonoma County surfer Megan Halavais was enjoying the remnants of a dying northwest groundswell at Salmon Creek on Wednesday morning when she was attacked by what she described as a 14-foot shark around 11am.

According to Sonoma County Sheriff spokesman Lt. Roger Rude, the shark came up from behind while she was paddling back out and grabbed onto her right leg, leaving a bite that stretched from her calf to her thigh -- an 18-inch wound. She hit the shark on the tail and it released her. Authorities believe the shark was a great white and have closed the beach.

"Shark attacks are not uncommon at this beach," Lt. Rude said. In November 2002, a bodyboarder was attacked at Salmon Creek.

Halavais was rescued and taken to the beach by off-duty lifeguard Britt Horn, who administered first aid while they waited for the helicopter to arrive. She was immediately taken to Santa Rosa Memorial Hospital where she remains in stable condition.

When she was being loaded onto the helicopter, the medivac aid asked if she'd ever surf again. In true surfer fashion, she replied, "As soon as the stitches are out."

Posted by: crazy bitch at November 7, 2005 04:20 PM

I'm still going to produce and sell the RFS singles and three fin sets. The design work on the three fin sets is done and the first production boxes are coming....

However, the R&D will slow down substantially. I'm pretty happy with where the design is now anyway. My main problem is getting Dennis to ride it.

Posted by: blakestah at November 7, 2005 04:20 PM

I'm still going to produce and sell the RFS singles and three fin sets. The design work on the three fin sets is done and the first production boxes are coming....

However, the R&D will slow down substantially. I'm pretty happy with where the design is now anyway. My main problem is getting Dennis to ride it.

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 04:24 PM

searoom: I had Lance H. for PT and it was worth every penny. Learned some very basic exercises and stretches for my neck tweakage which have proven invaluable. Plus, he politely endured my obnoxious whining about being near immoble and out of the water for 6 months. Internally, he must have been going bonkers...suprised he didn't tell me to shut up ;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 7, 2005 04:27 PM

I don't really smoke before surfing, but I love to afterwards. Especially if there is a football game on and I can melt into the chair. As long as I don't over-do it and my mind wanders onto dumb work stuff. I hate that.

Posted by: Bill at November 7, 2005 04:37 PM

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 04:53 PM

that man is all a-tinkle

Posted by: - at November 7, 2005 04:58 PM

any namers out there want to tell me where the last two pictures of e's report were taken? the crowded monkey kelpy righthander.since its so crowded maybe you wont get owned.

Posted by: curious jorge' at November 7, 2005 05:00 PM

this is my homemade board. I'm thinking of going with the RFS set-up, but not before I glass on a compass and a saddlehorn.

Posted by: not bad, huh? at November 7, 2005 05:07 PM

i'd name south africa.

Posted by: bagel at November 7, 2005 05:07 PM

Posted by: rotting clown at November 7, 2005 05:14 PM

Posted by: all namers get owned...there is no way around it, you remain warned at November 7, 2005 05:18 PM

Posted by: all namers get owned...there is no way around it, you remain warned at November 7, 2005 05:19 PM


Posted by: namers get owned guy at November 7, 2005 05:27 PM

To whoever made that custom board -- why not just glass a freshly-sharpened Hattori Honzo sword to the tip of your board while you're at it? I mean really man, jokes aside, do us all a favor and don't surf that deadly kook stick near people.

Posted by: Don't Get The Point at November 7, 2005 05:41 PM

Sometimes I just wanna fire one up in the parking lot, but then I remember shit I gotta go to work! I have a hard time writing code when i am high.... Surfing is another thing.

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 05:48 PM

Sometimes I love getting high and other times it makes me think too much, but in the in the end, I still love it.

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 05:50 PM

if i smoke too much i forget how to think.

Posted by: bagel at November 7, 2005 05:55 PM

the board above does look like a ironing board.is it real?the rfs deserves more respect than that . but we all know its not the board its the surfer.im sure kelly could make a piece of driftwood style.

Posted by: iron fist at November 7, 2005 05:57 PM


Posted by: Hatori Honzo swords get CONTEMPLATED at November 7, 2005 06:30 PM

if I think too much, I forget how to smoke.

Posted by: Socrates at November 7, 2005 06:58 PM

s.s. sharkbait--thanks for the info. BTW did you say 6 MONTHS!??!! Forget it, I'll live with the pain ;[
See you all out in the line-up just in time for Spring Fever. Yoikes.

Posted by: searoom at November 7, 2005 07:04 PM

Reynolds, I suggest you lowpass your shit. Maybe even out the sampling period a little, and speed it up. You're doomed.

Posted by: cry for more fish at November 7, 2005 07:18 PM

you can find fbsm with happy ending on craigslist. fauck.
legalize it(and well while your at it that too), tax it, give to the poor and schools. build more skateboard parks.


yea, that will happen......

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 7, 2005 07:19 PM

Hey, 3to5, if you want better FBSM, or even full service, reviews on providers, etc..., check out SF RB. If you want to know what that is, give me your email address.

I'm glad you guys are starting to come around and see that naming ain't that bad.

Posted by: at November 7, 2005 07:43 PM


Posted by: niceness headdress at November 7, 2005 09:08 PM

that kelpy, crowded looking spot - looks like Dungeons/SA. Certain secret spot with a taco bell and colored little houses was pretty fun this am. OB rocked yesterday. Long time reader, first time post. Cheers to all.

Posted by: Brent at November 7, 2005 10:05 PM
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