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De Young

Last weekend i visited the Ancient Oceania exibit at the new De Young museum. The whole museum is wonderful and inspiring, but this particular area moved me deeply. Primitive, spiritual, voodoo-like masks and figures brooded and sneered from their cases in the dimly-lit, mysterious corridor. Some of the objects were built with children's skulls and dried animal skin. My mom and girlfriend actually left the exhibit due to the sinister, eery, tangible quality of the artifacts. One object in particular captivated and repulsed at the same time. The head was made of a small human skull with dried boar skin stretched over the front, giving it the appearance of a shrunken head. Cowery-shell eyes were turned down in a sinister expression. The arms, legs, hands and feet were built with sticks strung together with vines and waxy grasses. The fingers were splayed out in a skeletal, threatening pattern. You would NOT want this entity to visit you in your dreams. Which is what happened to me last night...

... shipwrecked deep in the South Pacific. The year: 1785. I'm the only survivor of the great ship Persius on it's exploratory voyage through the south seas. A grand storm seized us in the night and dashed us against an unforgiving coral atoll. I somehow escaped the sucking vortex of the sinking ship, grasped on to some wayward barrels, and floated my way through the night to this seemingly uninhabited spit of island deep in the bowels of nowhere. I floundered my way to a narrow strip of white sand beneath a canopy of thick palm trees. I drug myself onto dry land, looked up, and thought i saw movement in the forest. I then most definitely heard a high-pitched wailing as if some bird were screaming its death knell. Just then a horde of dark-skinned natives descend on me, bind my limbs, gag me, and carry me into the jungled interior. As we approach a village of thatched-rooved huts and frightening totem images i hear the rising rhythm of many people chanting and stomping the ground with their feet. I see flashes of faces, painted and menacing. Their stares are hard and angry, piercing right through my petrified countenence. I attempt to yell but the gag is tightly afixed. I then hear water gurgling and boiling and realize that i'm about to become a ritualized meal. The procession stop and i'm placed on a spit above a huge cauldron of boiling water. A village elder walks out of what seems to be the spiritual temple. He's holding a voodoo figurine with a small humanoid head and cowery shell eyes. He speaks toward me but it seems as if the figurine is speaking. i see it's cracked, ancient mouth move and it says, "You have chosen the wrong time to ascend these shores. The seventh constellation is on the rise in the eastern sky. Our island has gone without rain and we are starving. The gods have sent you as a sign that they are pleased with our offerings of late. Please be at peace and know that you're mana from on high, brought to us in love and atonement."

Just then, as the stomping and chanting rise to a fevered pitch, i'm lowered in the boiling water. Seering pain, gruesome pain... life flashes before my eyes. I see the cowery-shell eyes of the figurine staring at me.

Hating me.


Loving me.

Eating me.


--------------------

JOC photo from last weekend

archy at the CWC

Dennis honked his horn and yelled at me this morning, and as a result, nearly rear-ended a truck!

Rumply, frumpy, bad tide, sloppy surface, but somehow I managed a coupla really nice rides amongst the dozen plus poor ones.

Its cold out there, feels worse than last January.

Posted by: blakestah at October 25, 2005 10:06 AM

BTW, MSG, that was frist psot.

Posted by: blakestah at October 25, 2005 10:06 AM

and then johnny weismuller swinging from a vine enters the scene with his nortorious scream
yaaha ada yada
scoops you and the spit into his olympian arms and swings to the other side of the clearing
whereupon you drop and sprint to the river which you cross in a few effortless strokes while the native spear chuckers hurl with all their might
but to no avail
and you live happily ever after with Jane and cheetah
servicing all your manly needs

Posted by: edgar rice at October 25, 2005 10:10 AM

ha!! awesome edgar!! perfect ending.

Posted by: e at October 25, 2005 10:11 AM

I stopped the car on the road on the way down to SC on sunday and took these:

Posted by: matt at October 25, 2005 10:11 AM

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 10:18 AM

Posted by: namers get owned at October 25, 2005 10:19 AM

I also had a sinister ocean-inspired dream yesterday evening. In it, a magnificent storm was brewing and the temperature was dropping to below freezing; waves were rising over 50 feet at times; just down a bluff, I could see a pod of grey whales had entered a particular cove for protection. They were circling and leaping from the water's depths--doing flips and making quite a spectacle. In time, it became a vortex which sucked them down and devoured them--as well as any passing ocean-bound vessels. Amazingly, just a few hundred yards away on an adjacent beach there were a few surfers who ventured in despite the ominous danger--paying no attention to the 4-headed sea monster that had come up to the shoreline to grab a few curious onlookers and beach bums.

Posted by: amigoism at October 25, 2005 10:19 AM

Bstah - that was nothing more than a near miss :^) The water looks cold but it also looks pretty clear judging by the aqua green lips and bright white foam. Nice shots matt. What's a frist psot?

Posted by: Dennis at October 25, 2005 10:21 AM

Beat me to it, bstah.

Sweet pics, matt. Definitely large out there. Looks very paddable too.

Are the censors active on this forum?? I coulda swore I saw some posts removed this morning on the previous blog.

Posted by: MSG at October 25, 2005 10:31 AM

frist psot = first post

Posted by: steve at October 25, 2005 10:33 AM

photos of beat-up women get removed. whoever posted that Please go to aggroville and flame away.

Posted by: e at October 25, 2005 10:34 AM

Yeah Matt , "the creek" was boomin' when I passed it Sunday at dawn. Lot of closeouts. No one out yet.

Surfed Lloyd's this morning alone (nod to B'stah). Mushy chest high sets arrived every few minutes. Water colder but my internal thermostat must be broken. Doesn't feel all that cold to me.

Can't wait to get to the DeYoung. Looks breathtaking. It will be interesting to watch the skin oxidize to green over the years. I've hear the copper skin prevents interrupts cell phone signals inside. That be a pretty cool unintentional design feature (at least i assume it was unintentional).

Posted by: kdalle at October 25, 2005 10:36 AM

e, your dream sounds awesome....even though you got munched. if i can trigger that kinda dream after visiting de young, then i'm there.
check out 'going tribal' on the discovey channel for some modern day cannibal action. or check out the episode where he doses with the tribe and trips out for 2 days!!

Posted by: rza at October 25, 2005 10:37 AM

K Dalle....you of all people!? You should know better..

Posted by: namers get owned at October 25, 2005 10:39 AM

just picked up "Heroes and Villains" last night
strange family
tyrannical father
dennis was the supreme party animal
made jim morrisson seem like and angel

" I don't know why everybody doesn't live at the beach, on the ocean. It makes no sense to me, hanging around the dirty, ugly-as-shit city. That's why I always loved and was proud to be a Beach Boy; I always loved the image. On the beach, you can live in bliss." - d. w. 1976

Posted by: snake at October 25, 2005 10:39 AM

Hi -
This is a nonsanctioned post from my desk at ReefyMcBarrels Biotechnology... Good to take a little trip to niceness land... Shoutout to all the lovers and good vibers... Fall is Here! Or is that Winter? I agree with Dickey Mora that October was a bit short on warm days and offshore breezes... but can't complain about PUMPING NW swell... surfed with some jetskis out in N.county on Sunday, snapped a board on the reef before work yesterday morning, good times! Harvest says what? Open invitation for a green reef session down here.

Posted by: j.o.c at October 25, 2005 10:52 AM

where's Lloyd's you namer? i want to know so I can bring a bunch of my friends and keep you company in the line up. and since i am such a good surfer i will take every good set wave from you kook namer.

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 10:54 AM

Rode clean Close-outs with the Doof at a place that needed more offshores or more tide to hold things up.

Lingering nasal drip from the cold. Hope it disappears by Saturday's Gig.

Funk Pantheon

James Brown
George Clinton
Silvester Stewart (Sly Stone)
Bootsey Collins
Maceo Parker
Bernie Warrell
Jimi Hendrix


Posted by: friend #1 at October 25, 2005 10:55 AM

namers...the photos are ID'ed by the poster in the address. Besides, it's a tired argument for a swell that has passed and a spot that is visible from the road, known by all who would dare to go out there on a big day or even a small one.

Now Saber Jets...there's a name for ya. Omigawd, take cover for the rapture is upon us!

Lighten up, get over yourself and just go surfing.

Posted by: kdalle at October 25, 2005 10:56 AM

I stopped by lloyd's early and watched you, but it was definitely not doing its thing the way it can. Saw a set come through before heading back to the city to surf the place that looked like pipeline two days in a row about 7 years ago.

Posted by: blakestah at October 25, 2005 10:57 AM

Lloyd's is in front of Lloyd's house. See ya there.

Posted by: kook namer at October 25, 2005 10:59 AM

BTW, Kdalle and Bstah,

Are you guys willing to leave the city to celebrate Halloween? If so, I know of a fun party coming up.

Posted by: Friend #1 at October 25, 2005 11:00 AM

"In the immutability of their surroundings the foreign shores, the foreign faces, the changing immensity of life, glide past, veiled not by a sense of mystery but by a slightly disdainful ignorance; for there is nothing mysterious to a seaman unless it be the sea itself, which is the mistress of his existence and as inscrutable as Destiny" Conrad

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Image hosted by Photobucket.com
Secret spot

Posted by: artifact at October 25, 2005 11:02 AM

vague is vogue....

kdalle and I know lloyd...therefore its like secret code or something brilliant like that....

same goes for the spot that looked like pipeline (but was going right) for two days in a row about 7 years ago...

been netflixing coupling too much...

Posted by: blakestah at October 25, 2005 11:06 AM

kdalle i'm a fan. but zip it ok? your a guest in SC county show respect. geez!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 25, 2005 11:13 AM

Nice shot Art!

Posted by: Mexi at October 25, 2005 11:15 AM

E, that's cool, although I did see the namer gets owned guy post removed too. I thought the pic was pretty funny.

Posted by: MSG at October 25, 2005 11:29 AM

Surfed some nice SC this morning. Somewhere between the two wharfs. Managed about a dozen waves or so on the high tide... There was a bit of a wait between sets but when they came they were pretty good. Solid shoulder high plus lefts and rights and sheet glass smooth. Quite a difference from the XL conditions on Sunday! The MSF2 was loving the conditions, and I was loving it. It felt great to get some turns in and rip across the face grey-green face of the morning waves.

Dark Hollow

Posted by: Dark Hollow at October 25, 2005 11:32 AM

dark hollow i'm jealous!

psyched for band practice tonight though! i have some new songs in the offing.

Posted by: e at October 25, 2005 11:37 AM

lloyd is such a fan of surfing

Posted by: mig at October 25, 2005 11:38 AM

Awright! Just found out 46059 is back...PING!

10/25 9:50 am 14.4ft 13sec

Posted by: kdalle at October 25, 2005 11:38 AM

matt...awsome picts...that dude must have got nailed about as bad as that person in that little car running over the Hells Angle.

Posted by: Tait at October 25, 2005 11:45 AM

Posted by: Surfseeker7 at October 25, 2005 11:58 AM

Anyone heading to Vegas this weekend?

Posted by: artifact at October 25, 2005 12:00 PM

In their blog Reality Surf Check, The Colonel, Otto Teller, and Scotty Breauxman join forces to shed light on the relationship between the surf mags and the multi-million dollar industry they serve. I think the relationship is pretty much self-evident to all those on this blog so I'm pretty much preaching to the choir, but it's still worth checking out. Spread the word and forward the link. We would all be better served by a more independant surf media.

Posted by: Davo at October 25, 2005 12:03 PM

Davo, I'm shocked, you don't enjoy your subsription to Surfer Catalog? I just finished the wetsuit issue, damn that was a good read

Posted by: eric at October 25, 2005 12:15 PM

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 12:20 PM

Posted by: yes indeed! at October 25, 2005 12:26 PM

Posted by: viva brazil at October 25, 2005 12:27 PM

i'm sorry, but that blog is really poorly written. yes, i suppose, salient points are made, but is painful to read. i guess this is grammar nazi-ish, but twice in the current blog piece he said: the surf mags "don't represent my friends and I." They surf magazines don't represent my friends and ME. I know it sounds fancier and more important to say "my friends and I", but in the predicate of sentence, it is my friends and ME. just take out the "my friends" and you will see that it sounds pretty awkward "the surf magazines don't represent...I." the guy IS blogging and he's knocking on bad writing in the mag's (I was actually just thinking how chris cote's writing is getting better, kinda) so he is, I reckon, putting himself out there. i actually think the colonel guy writes pretty damn well. his piece on arriving at ulu's is a really fun read. anyway, that's my two cents, not that a soul could care.

Posted by: steamwand at October 25, 2005 12:43 PM

I 100% agree with your assesment steamwand. And now, here are some pics of some Brazilian girls kissing...



Posted by: Surfseeker7 at October 25, 2005 12:52 PM

mag's?? not possessive-mags.

Posted by: another grammar nazi at October 25, 2005 12:55 PM

is that timmy reyes barrel the one everyones been talking about? hope not. sweet shots though artifact..

has someone entered "namer" in the wikipedia..someone here should i would love to read the definition..and e should get some credit for inspiring the invention of it..or whatever you say..

ps. my grammer and writing is the worst.

pss. id imagine what you guys are calling Lloyd's 90 percent of the rest of us call something else..but if not please send me directions..

Posted by: bagel at October 25, 2005 12:58 PM

brazilian women kissing rule like nothing else on earth has ever ruled ever in the history of ever!!!

gah!!

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 01:01 PM

Those chicks are like 12 ya dirtbags!

Posted by: perv nazi at October 25, 2005 01:02 PM

sorry i missed all you sour pusses this weekend at a certain reef in la jolla.
maybe, right after reading this, a carload of kooks will charge down there and spoil the line up tomorrow morning.
or maybe somebody can post something shitty about la jolla reefs or the people that surf there. that'd be more like it.

and lowers was firing on saturday.

and sano was, too.
nice "locals" for the most part.

Posted by: betho at October 25, 2005 01:04 PM

Dang Mig, that's pretty obscure. How's this?

Posted by: R3W at October 25, 2005 01:07 PM

thanks surfseeker. much more pleasing than ranting. the reality is that i am bitching because i need to surf. sooo...help? just started a new job downtown and i'm looking for the cheapest/fastest way to get from the beach to downtown (fremont st.) to work by 9 a.m. don't know whether i should drive and park ($$$?) or take muni (time?) or bring my bike and ride in from the beach (time?/laziness?) or do some compilation of the above where i park somewhere cheaper then get downtown via skate, bike or public transit. any help?

Posted by: steamwand at October 25, 2005 01:12 PM

i just finished "heroes and villains" the other day. Good stuff. Such a dysfunctional group.

Pacific Ocean Blue is a lost classic, by the way.

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 01:20 PM

Who's gonna pay for and advertise in a magazine filled with a bunch locals of other than the locals in the pics? Watching me surf is not quite as pretty as seeing AI puching through the Backdoor.

Does anybody remember Lloyd Thaxton? I do. He had a 60's tv show kinda like bandstand but a little more rock'n'rollin. His co-host was a little hairy thing with big round glasses like It in the Addams Family. Show was somewhat popular but short-lived. Come to think of it, he was pretty short too.

Posted by: Dennis at October 25, 2005 01:20 PM

Steamwand - The Century Movie Theater parking lot at O'Farrell and Polk Street cost's $7.00 per day if you get there before 9:30 AM and leave before 6 PM. But closer for you would be on Mission at 6th for about the same $$. It's an outdoor parking lot but I think the cheapest in the downtown area and a quick bus ride. They are the only two reasonable lots I know of. Prolly there are more if you look around.

Posted by: Dennis at October 25, 2005 01:26 PM

e, do you also take down posts of prepubscent chicks making out? that looks like kiddie porn to me. chicks are ugly too.

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 01:28 PM

thanks d.
anon-those girls don't look any younger than many of the girlie posts on here, not that i'm entirely comfortable with any of it, but they don't look "prepubescent" to me and they're just kissing. get over it.

Posted by: steamwand at October 25, 2005 01:50 PM


Posted by: seeing as how this is now a child sex type deal at October 25, 2005 01:59 PM

viva brazil
san diego bro just sent me this .... huge
http://media5.big-boys.com/content/hugewave.wmv

Posted by: mig at October 25, 2005 02:06 PM

Fark. Looks like that guy maybe let go of the rope a little too soon. He was hanging at the top for a long time. That make me nervous to watch the whitewater coming over the poor guy. The wave looks like it was reforming at the end too.

Posted by: Dennis at October 25, 2005 02:14 PM


Posted by: van art LIVES at October 25, 2005 02:15 PM

Van art is for VALS

Posted by: Jeff Spicoli at October 25, 2005 02:24 PM

Steamwand - Decent parking for Fremont Street on Pier 30 (same one as Red's Java House). $8 all day plus a free shuttle bus that runs from the pier to Main St and Mission. I work in the same neighborhood and actually walk it a lot of the time, too.

Posted by: Anon downtown SUV drivin' surferdude at October 25, 2005 02:25 PM

steamwand.. biking from the beach to downtown is the quickest.. takes about 30 minutes if you're hauling.. also.. on the low key.. sometimes i drive to clarendon street then take the muni from forest hill.. it's pretty quick. The N-judah takes forever from the beach in the morning.. about 50 minutes. L-Taraval is a bit quicker (less stops). The Geary Express is pretty quick too.

Posted by: e at October 25, 2005 02:29 PM



Posted by: above pics shot in Israel at October 25, 2005 02:39 PM

Def faster to ride bikes from the beach even faster than driving (during rush hour) the shittiest thing is facing the SF onshore's on the ride home afer a days work..weed helps with that though..not that i ride my bike to work much lately anymore. i think the SF onshores would be a good name for the "the Games" SF team. i hear gerrs up here recruiting (lie)...im headed to israel!

Posted by: bagel at October 25, 2005 02:48 PM

Oy vey! Don't name Israel you putz!

Posted by: moishe at October 25, 2005 02:48 PM

frank quirarte photo of a chilean beauty

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 02:50 PM

Alex Martins on the cover of mavsurfer

Posted by: e at October 25, 2005 02:51 PM

artifact -
nice pics.
i'm going to be in vegas this weekend.
i just dropped you a line on the email address from your photo website.
later!

go surfing!

Posted by: j.o.c at October 25, 2005 02:55 PM

joc.. you're off to vegooose? siick!

Posted by: e at October 25, 2005 02:56 PM

Damn, why are you guys droping names of all these secret spots. I've spent years figuring out all these parking spots, when they're good, working my way into the line-up. Now here you go blabing it all over the net. Get a clue, this is how parking spots get so crowded.

Posted by: Mission at 6th Local! at October 25, 2005 03:07 PM

chillin beauty? you cant see her face!

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 03:07 PM

I just had to make a run over the hill for work. On the way back, I cut thru Gri**#* Park and bombed this nicely paved hill on my skate. Felt so good to let our the work boredom. Of course, I couldn't just stop with one so had to run up and bomb it again. Now I am at work with a smile on my face and no one is the wiser. If you can't surf, skaaate!

Posted by: Hb at October 25, 2005 03:35 PM

6thst.local-i promise i won't drop-in on your spot. i'll pay my dues and take the scraps for a while. this is niceness-we should carpool!

Posted by: steamwand at October 25, 2005 03:40 PM

I'm guessing most people on here already know this, but that hugewave.wmv is the opening scene from Billabong Odyssey. Great flick.

Posted by: Jaques Haas at October 25, 2005 03:41 PM

Sexy Lady

Good Album

Posted by: not into 12 year olds at October 25, 2005 04:06 PM

Where's my phone call?

Posted by: Kaiser at October 25, 2005 04:15 PM

can someone tell me why we have had SO few days of E or ENE winds this fall?

Posted by: dsx at October 25, 2005 04:18 PM

6th st is heavy.

Posted by: Q at October 25, 2005 04:18 PM

Kaiser is some kinda major perv. Get laid already.

Posted by: enuff with the girlie pics at October 25, 2005 04:32 PM

And you have your cock in your hand right now! Check yourself.

Posted by: Harry Palms at October 25, 2005 04:37 PM

hey enuff with the girlie pics... shut the hell up!!! Get out of here! You are obviously not from around here.

Sorry for the localism everybody but this new guy has got to go...

Posted by: Kaiser is KING at October 25, 2005 04:44 PM

6th and Mission Is For Lovers
(of exotic pharmaceuticals and disease vector). Almost as scary as the back basement of Club 6 at 2am on a weekend night. Good place to check your sense of postmodern existentialism. Tulan is a gem in that block's social cesspool.

The bloog kind-of veered into a latently pedophilic vibe a bit today.
Double-plus-UNgood.

Posted by: Monkey Milk at October 25, 2005 04:53 PM

Not that i like 'Namers' but one time i was eating upstairs at tulan and I saw a rat run across the room and hide behind the dirty dishes..the sick thing is that i have returned..mmm chicken and bamboo shoots

Posted by: bagel at October 25, 2005 05:12 PM

ASAP

Posted by: kaiser needs to get laid at October 25, 2005 05:47 PM

I

Posted by: Brian at October 25, 2005 05:57 PM

55 degree water, small waves.
5:15 cloudy sky, the ocean a vast lake.
Waimea elevator drop, 10% the size...
Glass reflection of sunlight sneaking.
:)

Posted by: Brian at October 25, 2005 06:02 PM

Speaking of namers, I have some spots I been meaning to tell ya about...

Posted by: Bank Wright at October 25, 2005 06:12 PM

Post more girlie pics, please. Thank you.

Posted by: MSG at October 25, 2005 06:54 PM

http://news.yahoo.com/photos/ss/events/sc/091905hurricanes/im:/051025/480/nygb10310252119;_ylt=Ao8xAH9WCP7NfQouvAmQ4IFsaMYA;_ylu=X3oDMTA5bGcyMWMzBHNlYwNzc25hdg--

and check the next three or so pics. looks fucking goooood.

Posted by: NYC!! at October 25, 2005 07:19 PM

So few days of E/SE winds...

Multiple factors.

First, the storm factor. Its just too early in the year. Sure, we had a light year for Indian summers, but those come and go. And a real SE is usually storm related, just too early for that.

The light early morning offshores also tend to occur later in the year, and are strongly dependent on warm water. The water is too cold this year, we are not going to have many mornings of light offshores.

Now, strong offshores with a solid Great Basin high or an appropriately positioned low will still happen, but those are more of a November through February thing.

Its been a light October for Indian summer days.

Posted by: blakestah at October 25, 2005 08:14 PM

I'm 26 going on 14.

Posted by: Dickey Mora at October 25, 2005 09:58 PM

NEW INVENTION TECHNOLOGY

Posted by: rotating wiener at October 25, 2005 10:07 PM

and yer pt. is???

Posted by: at October 25, 2005 10:08 PM

cool interpretation of the weather systems and seasonal trends, blakestah. the cold water this year sucks (but my new hotline is toasty)! here's to the great basin highs of nov-feb!

Posted by: j.o.c at October 25, 2005 11:48 PM

thats what this BLOG has become. A BIG POS.

Posted by: POS at October 26, 2005 12:01 AM


e -- edit or be shut down. your only warning.

Posted by: at October 26, 2005 07:20 AM

Be glad I am not still in office. I would shut your ass down.

Now, why can't I get any repsect in the lineup?

Posted by: John Ashcroft at October 26, 2005 07:30 AM
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