smooth texture
Surf gluttony.
Surf in the morning, surf in the evening, surf in the morning, surf in the evening.
Japan, Jersey, Java, Jenner.
Peaks march toward shore.
They trip-up on the tapered sandbars.
Thin-lipped barrels spin and churn.
A steep, powerful face stretches before me.
Sculpted, aquatic inspiration.
Green-blue gulping dream.
Turn up and bank off the top.
Stony session last night.
Shifted perspective.
Excited energy.
Spun around and backdoorishly took off on a chucky right.
Fade into the pocket and find a narrel.
A quicker and more agile surfer would've found the barrel.
Steep left.
Pig-dog butt-slide takeoff.
Let go of rail while travelling mach 300.
A bit kookishly race up and pivot off the inviting lip.
Pumping down the line feels good.
A bit too far inside for a couple of money sections. d'oh!
Kookish footing compromises a tasty wall on one glassy right.
Lerm floating over sections.
Fall
Great boost mobile pro photos from Awe F'shore

Ross McBride photos (from allaboutsurf.com)




fluidzone.com always has awesome photos



too tired for more surf.
Posted by: blakestah at September 22, 2005 10:08 AMlosing weight.
must eat more food and nap.
saw friend #1 make a drop with the wave breaking on his back, again.
A good sign fall is upon us.
First full day of Fall.
Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2005 10:14 AMyeah, blakestah
Posted by: otf at September 22, 2005 10:17 AMin the words of the famous ambrose curry
"don't forget to eat"
I think tomorrow is officially first full day of fall, which starts at 330pm today.
Posted by: Sander at September 22, 2005 10:23 AMCool SFGate photos of Chinese tidal wave (not tsunami):
http://www.sfgate.com/n/pictures/2005/09/21/tidal9.jpg
Bro Gare from PB tells me he went to the Reef Party at Fernando's La Jolla crib last Saturday
photos here:
http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_09_20_surfaid.cfm
So I respond:
"awesome,
did you tell andy he was a f....n' sellout for doing those quizmo ads?"
and gary responds:
"homie was all pissed off because Rob Machado's limo was parked in front of the house and AI had to walk about a 1/2 block to get to his....freekin beeyotch."
oh damn, life is a beeetch
Posted by: mig at September 22, 2005 10:24 AMSure felt like fall this morning. Definitely fins out there at the north end.
Posted by: Q at September 22, 2005 10:24 AMno more fighting amongst ourselves-lets just surf!
if you suck and you can't get waves cause there are other people out well-that is your problem then isn't it? stop crying. pay the dues!
Posted by: flap at September 22, 2005 10:27 AMI guess that Gulf water is pretty warm

Posted by: Sander at September 22, 2005 10:27 AMWAVES!!! took a mental health day yesterday and did the surf, nap, surf thing. i'm so much more focused today.
Rita


Posted by: lerm at September 22, 2005 10:34 AMoops. sanders beat me to it.
Posted by: lerm at September 22, 2005 10:35 AMCan't we all just get along?
Posted by: Rodney King at September 22, 2005 10:39 AMHad a fun session last night. It took me a while to get my first wave. Always seemed to be outta position. Once I got my first, the rest just came easy. Drifted nearly a mile before the currents slowed down. The drift carried me into the bigger waves at the beach. Fun take-offs and medium-long rides. I walked back up the beach to my go to my car but needed more. Paddled out again for 6 more waves then called it a day. Met a chill guy named Davo on the way out. Good surfer. Shared some waves with Mark Alfaro. Lots of friendly peeps in the water. No crowd related issues at all. All-in-all, it was a very good session. I left the water feeling really good. Went home and took my wife out for dinner, then crashed.
Posted by: Dennis at September 22, 2005 10:40 AMhttp://www.badmash.org/videos/videos_flv.php?v=george_bush_512K_Stream&
Posted by: j at September 22, 2005 10:44 AMGeez Rita is cranking swell. To bad she just doesnt sit in the middle of the Gulf all year long.
Glassy, clean and minimal fear for my life !
Fark OB in the Fall is the best!
Posted by: Bug Eyed at September 22, 2005 10:44 AMRita is going to make people rethink that area. Another 2-3 years of those areas getting tanked by monster hurricanes one after another, and i'll guarantee you insurance companies will change their policies and rates for people living in the South.
Dennis, had a super fun session yesterday afternoon too. Definitely OH+ out there earlier in the day. Dropped off considerably by late afternoon. I took some rides all the way past the inner sandbar and pull into some closeouts. That was fun. Got an in and out on a pumping left. Man, I love fall.
Posted by: MSG at September 22, 2005 10:53 AMDamn, I keep missing the a.m. sessions. By the time it's light, I hafta go to work. Look at th' beach on my way to public transit and my guts churn with envy...all those unridden waves---uuuuugghhhh. Need to find a way to come in later for work.
Posted by: amigoism at September 22, 2005 11:00 AMSnuck out of my cubicle yesterday on a work related errand (I swear) and checked the beach around 2pm. Looked kinda big and super mushy (just the way I like 'em) - cleanish and solid overhead. By the time I got in the water (about 4:30), it had dropped considerably - still overhead on the sets, but just barely ... and it got smaller over the next couple hours. Just the same, I'm glad I left the log at home. I got some good exercise paddling the smaller board against the southward pull and some fun rides too.
Posted by: Jimmie at September 22, 2005 11:07 AMI was up vomiting all night....
Posted by: blakestah at September 22, 2005 11:08 AMI had a doctor's appointment...
My dog died last night...
...
amigoism,
Posted by: mig at September 22, 2005 11:09 AMwas out last Friday morning before work, everybody was amped about the south swell, talking and chatting. One guy asks don't you work today?
yeah, i left an I'm sick messaage on my bosses voice mail at 6:15. what about you? "i'm at a dmv appointment" damn i knew the dmv was trying to be more accomodating but i didn't know you could get your licensed renewed while surfing the EGJ
blake...
you serious? if so sorry to hear that.
Posted by: korewin at September 22, 2005 11:12 AMsounds like the makings of a country song.
didn't your dog die about six months ago?
Posted by: at September 22, 2005 11:12 AMyeah i got a new one
maybe i oughta stop feeding my dogs scraps from that stinky place in the middle of the lindy parking lot.
Guys...he was offering good excuses to get out of the cubicle, not telling a story...
Bstah...correct me if I'm wrong.
Posted by: Q at September 22, 2005 11:18 AM
Posted by: at September 22, 2005 11:23 AMWhat the heck is that? Whatever it is, I like it. I'll call it art.
Posted by: Secret Doom Dada at September 22, 2005 11:27 AMYeah, excuses, DMV is a good one.
Posted by: blakestah at September 22, 2005 11:32 AMParents visiting from out of town, had to take them to the airport.
Jury duty. Good for a few days in a row, save it up for a good stretch.
Car got a flat tire/threw a rod/wouldn't start
I have a meeting at 2, I better go NOW!
That is my excuse.
Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2005 11:34 AMblakestah - thanks for the suggestions. I usually don't need an excuse - I can usually get away with a simple, "I'm not coming in today, something's come up." I leave it to my boss to figure out if it's a family emergency, the surf, or ... well, you know ... But just now my department is in major transition, I have a lot of extra work and it wouldn't do me any good to skive. In fact, I'm going in for my annual evaluation in about 5 minutes. Bye!
Posted by: Jimmie at September 22, 2005 11:35 AMNewest hazard to hit OB...obesity epidemic. I'm officially too fat for my wetsuit. I must have eaten all of blakestah's food.
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at September 22, 2005 11:38 AMWent out with MSG yesterday afternoon. Took the 5'9" fish. Didn't find the channel right away, so I spent a LOT of time paddling but finally made it out. I think fish season is over at OB.
Posted by: steve at September 22, 2005 11:41 AMI ate some bad shellfish last night
My kid's sick and I have to stay home and look after her
My toilet broke and I have a plumber coming this morning to fix it
Oddly enough, a couple of days ago I developed some strange stomach ache straight after lunch and had to leave early. Even stranger, it mysteriously cleared up as soon as I got to the beach......
Posted by: limevoodoo at September 22, 2005 11:47 AMoh..i get it. i am very very slow today.
Posted by: korewin at September 22, 2005 11:54 AMdon't drink with aussies and expect a
productive day.
Thats a huge rabbit on some hillside in italy by some korean dudes..pretty rad but they say its gonna be there for 25 years and its supposedly made out of real stuffed animal stuff..somethings fishy..looks rad though.
i can finaly surf after work tonight. yeah!
Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2005 11:58 AMmy excuse...surf's pretty decent, I'll be back in an hour.
Posted by: dsx at September 22, 2005 11:58 AMHuh...no ground swell, but the wind waves have some juice.
check out the lefthand scale. Right now OB is at 3.
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at September 22, 2005 11:59 AMand don't forget the dsl/cable new service hookup excuse - that's good for a couple of hours...
Posted by: caveman at September 22, 2005 12:01 PMWell today was good for the fishy board. So much fun. Yesterday I had my shortboard and shouldda taken the semi; the only waves I caught (before my leash tore) were with a boost from the crumbling lip.
Posted by: kloo at September 22, 2005 12:09 PMfor wooden board Danny and Keith, it is always fish season....in fact you know its big when Danny leaves the fish at home
Posted by: blakestah at September 22, 2005 12:15 PMhere's a few of my recent excuses:
i'll be late...i'm waiting for the furniture delivery guy...
my brakes just went out...can't make it back to the office today...
my house caught on fire...gotta do some clean up...
went surfing last night and ripped my shoulder muscle...not gonna make it today...
i got way too much sun over the weekend...i think i got some form of heat stroke...
and there was actually some truth in everyone of these.
Posted by: rza at September 22, 2005 12:15 PMThats what i get for hiring surfer labor.
Posted by: BEAR at September 22, 2005 12:22 PMThanks for the input. A year ago, a work acquaintance interviewed at O'Neill for a graphic design job. The man interviewing her leaned over to shuffle through the pile of resumes on the floor. As he did so, water poured out of his nose all over 'em. Guess some places encourage the mid-day surf. Wish mine did. She didn't get the job though--they were looking for a surfing bro, not a sponging femme. Not sure why they wouldn't want a classy dame around the office though, instead of more testosterone.
Maybe there'll be something left this afternoon. I'll keep my eye on the flag outside my office window.
Posted by: amigoism at September 22, 2005 12:27 PMA friend from SC used to tell me, "when you call in sick keep it short". I won't be in today, I'm sick. After you say that there will be silence. The boss will be waiting for you to tell him what's wrong. Don't crack the silence. Let him or her be the one to speak next. I have been using this method for years and it works. Guaranteed.
Posted by: bddbb at September 22, 2005 12:30 PMFor my sick day last Friday I just sent the boss an email saying "I won't be in the office today. I am taking a sick day." Didn't actually say I was sick, heh heh.
Posted by: steve at September 22, 2005 12:36 PMI won't be in the office next Friday. I'm getting a colonoscopy. Now that's sick!
Posted by: Dennis at September 22, 2005 12:39 PMI surfed yesterday morning. Then told the office I am working from home. Then went for an afternoon sess.
Posted by: bz880 at September 22, 2005 01:09 PMsimba photos


Posted by: at September 22, 2005 01:20 PM
Posted by: at September 22, 2005 01:22 PM34' @ 12s
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at September 22, 2005 01:34 PMAny surf cams on the western gulf coast still up?
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at September 22, 2005 01:40 PMI, Kook
went out yesterday north end of the beach, looked fun way more chill than the south end inside mackers. Wanted to surf the fish but thought it a bit too powerful. Made it out on the first go, saw Gman and Surf seeker 7 nab a bunch, stroked for my first one, missed it, turned for a set on the head adn got washed way south and inside. Made the long solitary walk and found my summer noodle arms too weak to make it outside with similar results three times in a row before calling it quits. The same Chines fishermen must have thought it was grounhog day after seeing me belly in 4 times in front of them. Who knows hopefully we black suited surfers all look alike to them? Then to add insult to injury an obviously mentally ill methed out tweaker called me a fag when I was walking to my car!!
Posted by: antman at September 22, 2005 01:45 PMA very humbling day
Naomi Watts or Uma Thurman ??
Posted by: undecided at September 22, 2005 01:53 PMi wonder if kelly slater and the like ever call in sick from their jobs?
Posted by: j at September 22, 2005 01:55 PMSS - check yer email.
Posted by: Dennis at September 22, 2005 01:56 PMyesterday's paddle was, er, nontrivial for me too.
Posted by: kloo at September 22, 2005 02:02 PMI always say somethings up with my daughter. They never doubt a dedicated dad.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 22, 2005 02:05 PMGood Teahupoo pics here:
http://www.tim-mckenna.com/trips-20050913-125530.html?cat=Teahupoo
Posted by: Walker at September 22, 2005 02:34 PMI have nothing to say
Posted by: Mexi at September 22, 2005 02:41 PM
Posted by: at September 22, 2005 03:00 PMi really was sick yesterday, i slept all morning and checked the beach on my way to get some medicine... go figure it was the best i'd seen it in months. gotta be karma for all my fake sick days in the past.
Posted by: bbr at September 22, 2005 03:04 PMAre you JOKING "undecided?"
Posted by: Jimmie at September 22, 2005 03:10 PMUma uber alles!

Posted by: Sienna Miller at September 22, 2005 03:14 PMHa I got sick once from taking a sick day and surfing after a storm in nasty water. That was some karma payback.
Rosario Dawson vs. Angelina Jolie? That would be a wild combo!
Posted by: artifact at September 22, 2005 03:22 PMJust remember it's always much more believable when you call in sick 2 days in a row. Just wear lots of sunscreen.
Posted by: R3W at September 22, 2005 03:42 PMStorm looks to have peaked/passed buoy 42001.
Next buoy in the path is 42038, but it doesn't have good data.
*********
Station 42038 broke free from its mooring and has been recovered. It will be restored to service when it can be worked into the schedule.
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at September 22, 2005 03:52 PMWhen the date is known, it will be posted in the weekly maintenance report.

Posted by: Lovely Rita at September 22, 2005 03:57 PMRita: Payback's a bitch. They should have renamed Rita to Iraq.
Posted by: at September 22, 2005 04:04 PMholy sienna miller's
Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2005 04:05 PM
Posted by: 420 at September 22, 2005 04:20 PMno way
Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2005 04:23 PMI love Oktoberfest--jugs o' beer; jugs 'n beer. Gonna get there next year.
Posted by: amigoism at September 22, 2005 04:37 PM
Posted by: querfurter at September 22, 2005 04:45 PMWomen are so hot!!! thank god i'm hetero!!!!
Posted by: at September 22, 2005 04:49 PMHere's a fun link
http://www.planetdan.net/pics/misc/georgie.htm
Posted by: artifact at September 22, 2005 04:53 PMJust imagine it's the Dubbay ragdoll from a DOH set. I know I've done those motions before.
Posted by: artifact at September 22, 2005 04:56 PMMesh print, my favorite...

Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2005 04:59 PMholy mackaloly!!
Posted by: at September 22, 2005 05:06 PM
Posted by: whoa nelly at September 22, 2005 05:24 PMI SURF!
Posted by: INOKEA at September 22, 2005 05:24 PMARF ARF ARF
Can your pussy do the dog?
George Bush rules 'cuz he PRAYS
Posted by: Daize at September 22, 2005 05:35 PMyou LIBERAL
I SURF!
Posted by: vibey bobby at September 22, 2005 05:44 PMART ART ART
the way i walk is just the way i walk
knock that bitch out
Posted by: Brian at September 22, 2005 06:03 PMshhhhh. seems like there is sumtin out der!
I want to be at that 1:22 post. NOW!
Posted by: Hb at September 22, 2005 06:16 PMNo back to our regular programming...
Fun chunky waves tonight. It's amazing how the current can be so strong and all of a sudden just stop.
Surf.
Posted by: Dennis at September 22, 2005 07:26 PMdecidedly delicious waves,
Posted by: betho at September 22, 2005 10:23 PMthank you thank you thank you.
i wonder if they like it better at night, unridden and even more perfect because we're not checking.
http://www.muchosucko.com/video-sharkattack300milesoffchileancoast.html
Kill em all. They're just beasts.
Posted by: God damn sharks! at September 23, 2005 12:40 AMKaiser, a thousand blessings on your house,
May you reap a bountiful harvest,
May live to a full age,
And may you find many epic lefthand point breaks all to yourself (and selected friends/loved ones)
All hail Kaiser Sose !
Posted by: having a bad day until i saw the Mesh Print at September 23, 2005 08:04 AMGeez that Hurricane looks brutal.
What is that saying about chickens coming home to roost?
Posted by: Rita at September 23, 2005 08:11 AMCadaver surfs in a thong.
Posted by: Imposer at September 23, 2005 09:42 AM